Always good practice to bridge seams when 24oc, we use 1/2" plywood scraps and screws, also found that spackle spots on joints never holds up from expansion and contraction seems to let go. Nice work guys
That's the way Buddy !! Always 'back block' Your ceilings as well as strengthening the joint you get rid of some of the off cuts. Manufactures recommend to use back blocking cement. One thing for certain will be that the Seppos won't know what back blocking is. Great work as usual !!
In my 45 years in the trade, ive never seen this done, and have never had a problem..........though we do use 5/8 board on ceilings on 2ft centers......
I worked in Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky, it really wasn’t necessary inland, maybe in costal states with Hurricanes, sandy soul n such but I never experienced issues with the Flat joints cracking hanging on 24” centers.. I know the codes and circumstances are different in other areas
Are u crazy one timber of 2x2 at same as your switch pads or radiator pads 500mm or timber to side of each joice do you guys even know about staggering your sheets to make it more solid i can agree with putting the plaster on the joices or mastik
Are u crazy one timber of 2x2 at same as your switch pads or radiator pads 500mm or timber to side of each joice do you guys even know about staggering your sheets to make it more solid i can agree with putting the plaster on the joices or mastik
I would agree.. but pulling drywall to drywall tight? I have used wood blocks to do that. Unf.. unless you have someone in the attic to push back down, the bond is not that great. Maybe some runny mud would work. Or pin them to the rafters. At the end of the video he picks up on one of the back boards.. that's all the bond your getting. You can push and squish them as putting on. But once the next full sheet goes up it will lift it up just like the guy did. Leaving it floating. Any bonding would be minimal.
I think they are using 10 mm drywall. USA use 1/2 inch or 13 mm to 5/8. So back blocking not required. But with that said. I back blocked a house recently and think it improved strenth. Thank you for vidios.
Hey mate you're exactly correct. It's exactly why we need to do that, our board is quite thin, and sometimes it can get a little flimsy. It is light to hang though and the sheets come in 6meter lengths. Thanks for watching bro
I'm thinking the drywall so thin that they have to put blocking between the bottom chords. They seem to be very much behind with their building codes they're still using skip sheathing on the roof, and nothing for waterproofing but the cement tiles sitting there. I wonder how thick the lid board is there? I wonder why they don't screw with the back blocking??
@@superherobeatdown yeah looks like your fixing it directly to the truss / ceiling joist. i noticed in some other videos a metal batten would be fixed first then the plaster board is fixed to the batten. Is the batten only necessary in certain situations?
@@brenden8783 Usually it's to level out the ceiling and help reduce cracking as a new house dries out. When you have a large area like an open concept house you can see the waviness of the trusses. Sometimes it's also for noise reduction.
@@brenden8783 yeah you can add that it's just really gets used over here in UK for council houses for long-term housing as deck monkey said yeah it just makes it look neater and more level but in Scotland if u use the bar then you have to double skin the ceiling its really all just up to the architect specification and detail but the guy in the video was doing wild shit i don't see that holding long term
Regulations stipulate no timber as back blocks, and plaster back blocks should have a 50mm gap at both ends from the trusses. The blocks in the video are far too large and heavy. Roof trusses must have room for movement!
question please , do you have to support the joints with extra board and glue? the weekend i will be re boadring my utilty ceiling as a leak from the bathroom ruined it. i will strip the old baords back to joists. the ceiling is small 8ft by 6ft. do i need to put glue to the joists like you do here? and do i need to support the joins inbetween joists with extra board and adhesive?
You shouldn't have to glue the drywall if you use enough screws. Always use the 5/8" thick drywall if the framing members are space over 16" on center.
You guys are on the right track but a stronger and faster way is to use scrap 2×4 lumber and 2 screws on each side. I highly doubt the second sheet will have that good of an adhesion unless you reach up and over to press down on the blocking, which I absolutely know you didn't do.
mexinumba1 don’t think so I put metal in top but only screw metal top leaving rafters screwed no closer than 16 inches took the cracks out permanently.
Never seen this done before. Curious, is this done when the lumber is more than 16” from center? Do u drive a screw in between them after or does the mud settle and bond the seems?
Good work with the backblocking the only thing is that you, only put one screw in the middle when with csr board requires two screws at 400mm centres just letting you know for future videos but keep up the work
@@larrylewinski3086 1/2 sag is twice the rock with less than half the weight, unless 5/8 is needed for code. Try some time, 1/2 sag doesn’t burn anymore than 5/8 it’s all about the money and someone making the fire codes.
if you want drywalling to take forever this is how you should do it ... if you're going to do that just cut pieces of plywood and just screw them there instead of that waste of time ... Even that would be a waste of time ive never seen issues so bad with bevels that you have to do that
You may save a few dollars but this is still the wrong way .All joints should be on Timber / structure , I have worked in the UK this is how they do it no problems ever . Floating joints are weaker .Plaster board is cheap why do a crap Job !!
Here in the US, 4x8 foot, 5/8" thick sheetrock is supposed to be used for the ceilings, run across the joists (timber), which are 16" on center. The finished edges are often floating, except for a screw every 16 inches. No back-blocking required. But I've seen it done different ways. Inspectors generally don't have a problem with it, as long as the sheetrock is 5/8 inch.
I'm left with the impression that the UK and Europe has a problem with sagging ceilings, thus the need to have ceiling joists and cross-bracing at all the joints of the sheetrock. That's not a problem here in the US, as long as 5/8" sheetrock is attached to joists that are 16 inches on center. And I live in California, which is known for its earthquakes. My house is 47 years old and I've never had a floating joint problem. It's essentially unheard of.
The guys are right. If you did this in Canada you would be laughed at & fired on the spot. You would be known as a hack. Should be using 5/8" drywall. In Canada we screw it every 8 to 12 inches apart with 2" drywall screws on the ceilings & some guys double up on the screws. You could use blocking in between the rafters such as 2x4's but most times it's not necessary. As for that damn drywall gun your using, throw it away. You'll be deaf in about 6 months.
Yeah I'm aware of that. Here we use a stud adhesive instead of so many screws works very well. Our sheet is longer and thinner yet strong. We could do it to your standard, when in Rome. Just look at our installation guides and figure out we are doing it to the way prescribed in our country.
If one of my guys did this they would be fire instantly. 6 screws across the width of the sheet and 10 across the length is plenty. No need to this extra time wasting.
Some of these comments are just plan out there..look I've been doing drywall for 25 years and anything I can do to improve my product believe me the customer appreciate it..we all have to find ways to be moving forward in what ever we do...good job max!!!
Always good practice to bridge seams when 24oc, we use 1/2" plywood scraps and screws, also found that spackle spots on joints never holds up from expansion and contraction seems to let go. Nice work guys
imagine u working with Craig or DRywall Gangsters ud be the bucket cleaner haha :)
That's the way Buddy !! Always 'back block' Your ceilings as well as strengthening the joint you get rid of some of the off cuts. Manufactures recommend to use back blocking cement. One thing for certain will be that the Seppos won't know what back blocking is. Great work as usual !!
Thanks Serge
In my 45 years in the trade, ive never seen this done, and have never had a problem..........though we do use 5/8 board on ceilings on 2ft centers......
yeah ours is only 10mm thick. too thin if you ask me
@@Maxkil so our 5/8 board = 16.8 mm, and its fire rated, which is way stronger than regular board. Do they not have fire rated board where your at?
please what's name of this job ??
2x4 best or 1x 3
I worked in Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky, it really wasn’t necessary inland, maybe in costal states with Hurricanes, sandy soul n such but I never experienced issues with the Flat joints cracking hanging on 24” centers.. I know the codes and circumstances are different in other areas
Are u crazy one timber of 2x2 at same as your switch pads or radiator pads 500mm or timber to side of each joice do you guys even know about staggering your sheets to make it more solid i can agree with putting the plaster on the joices or mastik
Hi , what should be distance between the nails for ceiling gyprock please ?
Should be using screws and it all depends on your state/country building standards
You can't use timber blocking it will crack the join as it moves in the heat, they are doing a great job which won't crack or move
Are u crazy one timber of 2x2 at same as your switch pads or radiator pads 500mm or timber to side of each joice do you guys even know about staggering your sheets to make it more solid i can agree with putting the plaster on the joices or mastik
Better to screw the back blocks to pull them in tight?
I would agree.. but pulling drywall to drywall tight? I have used wood blocks to do that.
Unf.. unless you have someone in the attic to push back down, the bond is not that great. Maybe some runny mud would work. Or pin them to the rafters.
At the end of the video he picks up on one of the back boards.. that's all the bond your getting. You can push and squish them as putting on. But once the next full sheet goes up it will lift it up just like the guy did. Leaving it floating. Any bonding would be minimal.
What drywall gun you use to screw the Sheetrock?
I use scraps of 1x’s or 2x’s or plywood screwed in between. They don’t have to be full length, a foot or so works well.
I think they are using 10 mm drywall. USA use 1/2 inch or 13 mm to 5/8. So back blocking not required. But with that said. I back blocked a house recently and think it improved strenth. Thank you for vidios.
Hey mate you're exactly correct. It's exactly why we need to do that, our board is quite thin, and sometimes it can get a little flimsy. It is light to hang though and the sheets come in 6meter lengths. Thanks for watching bro
Hello, it's interesting to me, about the tolerances between the panels, how much allowable the rise between them? Thank you
I'm thinking the drywall so thin that they have to put blocking between the bottom chords. They seem to be very much behind with their building codes they're still using skip sheathing on the roof, and nothing for waterproofing but the cement tiles sitting there.
I wonder how thick the lid board is there? I wonder why they don't screw with the back blocking??
One way using up off cuts has a good purpose too
Hi mate, why no 450c metal battens for this job? wondering why some ceilings have this and other don't cheers
Depending on what you are talking about buddy
Do u mean the roof or trusts
@@superherobeatdown yeah looks like your fixing it directly to the truss / ceiling joist. i noticed in some other videos a metal batten would be fixed first then the plaster board is fixed to the batten. Is the batten only necessary in certain situations?
@@brenden8783 Usually it's to level out the ceiling and help reduce cracking as a new house dries out. When you have a large area like an open concept house you can see the waviness of the trusses. Sometimes it's also for noise reduction.
@@brenden8783 yeah you can add that it's just really gets used over here in UK for council houses for long-term housing as deck monkey said yeah it just makes it look neater and more level but in Scotland if u use the bar then you have to double skin the ceiling its really all just up to the architect specification and detail but the guy in the video was doing wild shit i don't see that holding long term
Regulations stipulate no timber as back blocks, and plaster back blocks should have a 50mm gap at both ends from the trusses.
The blocks in the video are far too large and heavy. Roof trusses must have room for movement!
must be a canadian thing
Definitely different down under. 👍
Look at the speed difference compared to that other drywalling gang who where running around. Big big difference
They had another house to do that day.
question please , do you have to support the joints with extra board and glue? the weekend i will be re boadring my utilty ceiling as a leak from the bathroom ruined it. i will strip the old baords back to joists. the ceiling is small 8ft by 6ft. do i need to put glue to the joists like you do here? and do i need to support the joins inbetween joists with extra board and adhesive?
I can help u in millimeters mate hahha
You shouldn't have to glue the drywall if you use enough screws.
Always use the 5/8" thick drywall if the framing members are space over 16" on center.
You are holding the hilti screw gun wrong
You guys are on the right track but a stronger and faster way is to use scrap 2×4 lumber and 2 screws on each side.
I highly doubt the second sheet will have that good of an adhesion unless you reach up and over to press down on the blocking, which I absolutely know you didn't do.
I was about to say that to, like is wood blocking that hard to put in lmao
Adding wood blocking would take much longer and cost more and would require more tools and material and make more of a mess
How long will it tKe you to do a whole house doing this method??? forver!!
You will see on Monday . We have a good job new house
mexinumba1 don’t think so I put metal in top but only screw metal top leaving rafters screwed no closer than 16 inches took the cracks out permanently.
I would bet when you put up next sheet you were not able to get the small panels set right.
Never seen this done before. Curious, is this done when the lumber is more than 16” from center? Do u drive a screw in between them after or does the mud settle and bond the seems?
Glue, screws 1 by 4 ’s all green board. Never skimp on quality
The gap between the timber is to big. That hilti drill is the best I have one
Hilti is the best stuff mate worked with it for years only good for there customer service tho hahah
Good work with the backblocking the only thing is that you, only put one screw in the middle when with csr board requires two screws at 400mm centres just letting you know for future videos but keep up the work
Jesse Dale we use 2 screws either side of centre for 1200mm sheets and 2 screws at 450mm centres for 1350mm.
Thats the first I've seen someone use a hawk to drywall lol. 👌 nice
Thanks
No reflecting sarking. Must be Simonds shit home. 🤣😂🤣
Anyway awesome content as always Maxkil.
Or you just screw 2x1.5 inch timber to the joints which would be a lot quicker and stronger.
Yeah true true. I do that more on repairs.
No las preguntó para q hacen eso
eles nos fazem.
por força
se mais de 3 junções de drywall
And that’s why sag resistant is the best. Always someone trying to over think work.
Or use 5/8" drywall on 24" on center roof trusses
@@larrylewinski3086 1/2 sag is twice the rock with less than half the weight, unless 5/8 is needed for code. Try some time, 1/2 sag doesn’t burn anymore than 5/8 it’s all about the money and someone making the fire codes.
Só uma opinião. Coloca legenda em espanhol ou português. Aí eu divulgo aqui no Brasil seus vídeos
deixe-me tentar isso
poner ese tipo de masa i después atornillan
This guy must get paid by the hour
Haha. It's pretty funny. Thanks
if you want drywalling to take forever this is how you should do it ... if you're going to do that just cut pieces of plywood and just screw them there instead of that waste of time ... Even that would be a waste of time ive never seen issues so bad with bevels that you have to do that
ThatZ a Wrap....
Muito bom eim parabéns
obrigado por assistir Johny
4 screw on each rail,3 is for the walls,3 glues on each rail 300mm apart;!
Here in WA Australia you can't sell house if you don't do blocking s on 10 mm gyprock and the must be 200mm wide by rail width at least 20 mm gaps!
Oh you mean 20mm from the timber.
Yeah some of those were tight.
Ok I will do that. Wasn't sure
Really thats news to me I live in Perth
show de bola amigo
Obrigado Amigo
this is a shit load of work!! not sure if it is even neccessary
Use 2x4 lumber and screws instead!! This is fooling yourself!!
No valen madre pa chirroquiar
U made the job harder for yourself you should use 2400mm by 1200mm lifes easier
You may save a few dollars but this is still the wrong way .All joints should be on Timber / structure , I have worked in the UK this is how they do it no problems ever . Floating joints are weaker .Plaster board is cheap why do a crap Job !!
Here in the US, 4x8 foot, 5/8" thick sheetrock is supposed to be used for the ceilings, run across the joists (timber), which are 16" on center. The finished edges are often floating, except for a screw every 16 inches. No back-blocking required. But I've seen it done different ways. Inspectors generally don't have a problem with it, as long as the sheetrock is 5/8 inch.
GSMSfromFV Thats not the point .Floating joints in any media are weaker .
And there are no problems with 5/8" sheetrock with floating joints. If there were, it would be addressed by the building code.
GSMSfromFV It is in Europe. All I can say is the building code in the USA is substandard.
I'm left with the impression that the UK and Europe has a problem with sagging ceilings, thus the need to have ceiling joists and cross-bracing at all the joints of the sheetrock. That's not a problem here in the US, as long as 5/8" sheetrock is attached to joists that are 16 inches on center. And I live in California, which is known for its earthquakes. My house is 47 years old and I've never had a floating joint problem. It's essentially unheard of.
I like his videos but this is alittle to much for me . But to each is own
I thought the same, but then I noticed the joist spacing. At least should help a bit with sagging.
The only thing I can say is that if you do that here in Canada you will get fired right on the spot, period.
Just out of curiosity why would you get fired for that?
I don't know why either.
Looks like pro job to me ….. why fired ????
Cool... minus the music.
Thanks. Sorry about the music
Maxkil No worries. Learned a lot. Sorry for that critical comment
How to get fired in 10 minutes
The guys are right. If you did this in Canada you would be laughed at & fired on the spot. You would be known as a hack. Should be using 5/8" drywall. In Canada we screw it every 8 to 12 inches apart with 2" drywall screws on the ceilings & some guys double up on the screws. You could use blocking in between the rafters such as 2x4's but most times it's not necessary. As for that damn drywall gun your using, throw it away. You'll be deaf in about 6 months.
Yeah I'm aware of that. Here we use a stud adhesive instead of so many screws works very well. Our sheet is longer and thinner yet strong. We could do it to your standard, when in Rome. Just look at our installation guides and figure out we are doing it to the way prescribed in our country.
If one of my guys did this they would be fire instantly. 6 screws across the width of the sheet and 10 across the length is plenty. No need to this extra time wasting.
Lol what a dum idea
If you want strong put R C CHANNEL every 12" easy and more convenient or even 8" even better job then this useless job
If I seen my crew do this it would be a definite fired on the spot. Never seen this unneeded work and pointless.
You've never been to Australia or New Zealand then? You'd get fired on the spot if I didn't see you do this.
Yeah he would have to climb back up into the ceiling
@@Maxkil the first question people should ask is what country are you from. Or, get some proper understanding before saying outrageous things.
Bro some of the comments amaze me.
Some of these comments are just plan out there..look I've been doing drywall for 25 years and anything I can do to improve my product believe me the customer appreciate it..we all have to find ways to be moving forward in what ever we do...good job max!!!
All unnecessary and a waste time and money
waste of time
It does make it stronger and keeps the joint together though.
Your right it is a waste of time just like leaving gaps at the end of your sheets 🤔🤔
That’s such a waist of time I would had it all up in the time it took you to make those things
it has a purpose dumbass
rubbish
Thanks
just joker man
Oh you were joking... Either way....