got one I pulled off some neighbors' 'dead' mower. Loose blade made it sound like blown engine. New filter, new plug to replace the fouled one. It's been more than ten years now on my Snapper deck. April 2000 production date. Quantums are unstoppable. Think it's the governed engine. Running at the same speed forever is under-rated! They go & go.
I had an old Murray mower with the quantum engine before the Honda that I have now I picked it up off the curb for free and used it for about 6-7 years I had to get rid of it because it was getting unsafe to use I loved it because it almost never bogged down and the price was right
The Briggs Quantum engine is essentially a perfect design, you can't go wrong with them. I still don't know why B&S decided to release the EXi engines, those are problematic. Great video. OH, quick note for all, "Craftsman" is not a brand name, it is the name Sears put on the machines they had made for them by the lowest bidder, as well as their own numbers. Getting parts based on Craftsman numbers is a pain, but usually they are actually made by MTD, so you could find numbers from another identical machine that has the MTD numbers on it. Engine numbers and deck numbers are different, keep that in mind.
I found on my 2004 Craftsman that the part numbers cross reference to Husqvarna. Most part numbers are exactly the same, some take a little bit of research to find the cross reference, but not too bad.
bulk oil is the way to go as the person who is mechanically minded in the family i end up servicing all the cars mowers and anything else that shows up been buying valvoline synpower 5w30 in a 60L drum for 15 years i don't care what the recommended oil is thats what it gets
Personally I use SAE 30 oil for equipment running in warmer temperatures while using 5w 30 in equipment used in colder weather. But as long as you’re using oil within the manufacturers specifications, just about anything will do
Last year I fixed my stepdad lawnmower which was a Hyper Tough. He thought it was shot after seven years of use. It needed a new foam filter, tuneup and oil change and carb cleaning. The wheel fell off and he gave up on it. I sold him my self propelled snapper. Then I surprised him by fixing the wheel and giving it a tune up and gave it back to him. So I went electric and thought it was a good idea. Boy, I was wrong and let's not start down that horrible path. So I decided I would keep the electric mower and went this past week and decided my stepdad had such good luck out of the hyper tough that I bought me a brand new one for $247. It has a 300e Briggs and Stratton engine just like his. Those are simple and easy little mowers to work on. I also opted out to get me a brand new gas jug. Mine was very old and worn out.
@@georgepruitt637 had a 'loaded' Snapper HiVac, Tecumseh 3 3/4hp with electric start, Gates dry cell batt. pack. Guess what died first? Ran it 12 years, then another 12 with B&S 'Sprint' 3 1/2hp, now I'm in my 37th year with it, a used Quantum, 13th year on the deck. Still no battery pack remounted! Quantums need nothing but 18oz oil per season, a plug & filter every fifth year if you cut tidy dust-free sod! Love those beasties!
Im so damn old, I used those old reel mowers as a kid. Then push mowers until my 20's & I got a Sears riding mower. Now divorced & rent, had a used Sears lawn tractor, got 4yrs out of it & @ 70, went from a used Honda to a new one (HRR) BOTH self propelled. Takes 2hrs to mow everything. So I'd RATHER have a rider but can't afford one so its self propelled.
Those quantum engines are important to run them dry for storage because of the rubber float valve seat, they just love to swell up. I have a couple of those Craftsman mowers just like that, one with a Quantum and one with the Kohler, I love them both.
Back when I had a small lawn I had a 120 dollar WeedEater brand push mower. All I ever done to it was sharpen the blade, clean the sponge air filter, and replaced the diaphragm once. I still have it in the shed and it still runs after 13 years. I think more small lawn owners should use them instead of the ones with all the fancy stuff especially since a lot of folks now just throw away their stuff instead of fixing it. A lot less to tear up on it.
These are just as good and lot better than the fancy ones that don’t start most of the time Just keep carb clean and oil change I buy all the broken ones I can get 😊
There is only one honest lawn mower repair shop in my town. I asked for a Briggs & Stratton flathead and they had only one. It happened to be a full dresser, bag, mulcher, and side discharge chute three-in-one with front-wheel self-propel 190cc 675 series. It was either buy that or don't get a flathead. So, I bought it. Its former owner broke it while it was nearly new and let it sit around for years to get old before they got rid of it. The lawn mower shop got it somehow. Now it lives on Easy Street with an oil change and air filter every year. The blade is sharpened and balanced yearly too. It drinks only ethanol-free airplane gas from the airport @$7.50 per gallon! The bottom gets cleaned after every use. It has to last forever because gas mowers are banned in California. It's a Brute, so I named it Brutus!
I have used a Lawn Boy since the mid 1970's. Always starts and the deck has a nice cut with a sharp blade. I replace the blade and foam air filter every couple of years. Like you I know how to service them and have no desire to replace it. Good Channel.
I have had my LB Duraforce 6.5hp mower since bought new in 1997; in that time I have replace the starter rope once, coil once, blade prob 3 times, and cleaned the carb numerous times. Added fuel shut off several years back so I could run carb bowl dry during long storage periods; has always restarted in the spring😊
I prefer push mowers (and the large rear wheels). I never liked the speeds or pace of a self propelled mower. I have a large zero turn mower because we have several acres of yard. I do use a self propelled mower to trim around the trees but I always push. I inherited it but if I were to buy new, I would look for a simple one … maybe with electric start if my shoulder goes out with age.
Hey bro, what's up? I like these simple to use equipment. Even though they don't have all the fancy bells and whistles they are reliable once you do your maintenance on time, they should last you a lifetime.
Could it be that they are Switching to Plastic Carburetors and that they Plug up so f'n easily with the Shitty Gas of today that is Not Pure Gas but has Corn in it... and are Decaying also because of it? At least the ones from Walfart do... Or that the Blades Bend even if you look at a Branch 1-1.5 in thick wrong? Or how the Engine Falls through the Frame just after 3 months owning it and having less than 5 hours on it because the Frame Rusted through because of the Cheap Ass "metal" they use? Or how the Gas Tank itself Melts from the Gas you put in it? And Walfart Refuses to take them back for ( insert reason out of Their ass here ) ..
Thank you! A few quick searches of youtube leads to stories of the mower not wanting to start the next year. You have to either take the carburetor apart or replace it. So many warnings of how fragile the carb is and how easy it is to break something. So the reason why people get rid of these....The mower is junk.
When you check the oil with this kind of engine and dip stick, do you lock the cap in and then pull it out? Or do you just do what you did in the video?
I have a self propelled mower and Dad has a standard mower. For small areas they standard is fine but for larger areas l want self propel. Because dad has a simple mower l probably wouldnt replace my self propel with a simple one.
Yeah one of our Murray mowers was running quieter than normal and was running slow and for the life of my dad he couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. He was mowing with it and accidentally hit a piece of concreate that was buried in our yard and the mower running slower was a blessing because it didn't cause any dmg to the mower. I said to him could it be the air filter and he said maybe and we took the air filter out and it was very dirty and once we cleaned it out the best we could until we get new ones and the mower ran a 1000 times better. He was very happy that I was able to figure it out.
I learned something....that aluminum cooking tray is a great way to dump the oil.... I have so many times struggled with dumping the oil and getting it to go into an old gas can
I wonder when someone was going to mention that to me. you're the first one. It only makes sense because we were just going to throw it away, before I decided to repurpose it.
I have and use a basic side discharge mower with a B&S 450e on it. The paint was faded on it, so I made a project of it for fun. I sanded, primed, and painted the deck black. Then put automotive parts stickers on it such as Autolite, Fram, etc. I service the mower once a year with oil change, spark plug, and wash and re-oil its foam filter. I sharpen the blade using a drill sharpening stone and balancer. The axles and brake cable get lubed once a year. The mower stays covered in a shed when not in use. When I fill the gas can, I put Stabil in the can so I can keep fresh fuel. The mower is on its ninth season for my use. I prefer a simple gas mower because if I maintain it, it will last a long time.
The old Snappers were commercial quality, even though they weren't rated as such. We had 4 or 5 that were used every day all summer and required very little maintenance. I'd check the 00 grease in the gear box once a year and that was about it. They never leaked and if a belt broke or bearing failed I had a spare and it'd be back running in short order. All took the same parts so not much inventory either. That's why I kept the old 85 four horse; cheap to run and easy to fix. I can't tell much difference between the new ones and everything else so I'll pass on a new one. Thanks and Blessings
@@HomeGaragechannel The decks had WAY more suction that the new stuff. All the new stuff looks pretty well the same, just like vehicles. They would suck up pine needles years ago. My old 85 might still do it with a hi-vac kit. Blessings!
@@HomeGaragechannel It was then but now all the decks look the same. Snapper had like a wind tunnel. It just worked better than anything else and we did a lot of bagging then too.
There's nothing wrong with a simple mower. I used one or two for a while when I was between Honda HR214 units. One was my Mom's Yardworks mower with an MTD PowerMore engine mounted to it, it only did two things: mulch and side discharge. It was good for mowing, light and very reliable. I still service that mower to this day and still think it's an awesome machine for its simplicity. The automatic choke function on it is even more basic than Briggs' system where it only uses a spring loaded wind vane up by the fly wheel to open the choke once it's started. There aren't any thermostats. The other I had was an old commercial Toro "pancake deck" mower with a two-stroke Suzuki engine. I liked that mower by the ease of starting (it has a choke system similar to a Honda on the throttle control), it was light, very quiet and reliable. I don't like Toro mowers as much as Hondas with the blade stop and shaft drive transmission as they can be hell when it comes to replacing the belts, and I had a Toro with a Suzuki 4-stroke engine, a belted blade clutch and belt drive 3 speed transmission. I have found Honda's blade brake systems more reliable than Toro's belt based system. Another non-Honda mower I liked and briefly owned was a Kawasaki powered John Deere with a BBC not unlike the design of Honda's where it used braking material instead of a belt, it was pretty good but the engine had issues. The commercial mowers are definitely built to last, especially looking at Honda and Toro. The Toro commercial mowers I've had (the two mentioned above)the belts bothered me on them. I have heard that Snapper mowers are apparently pretty good, but being owned by Briggs and Stratton is a problem in my opinion. The commercial mowers, the top of the line mower Snapper has has a Honda GXV160 mounted to it which I found funny for a Briggs company.
My husband died last year and I'm learning to work on his lawn equipment to keep them all going. Even though your video didn't have the exact same model of my engine I was able to take it apart and get the mower running after sitting all winter! Thank you so much😁
Well, back in the day Craftsman used Tecumseh engines and their carburetors were always a pain in the ass when they weren't working and Tecumseh made literally dozens of different carbs so that may be why folks look at a craftsman push mower warily. That's why I've never bought one as I assumed they were still using Tecumseh engines. I worked for Tecumseh for 7 years in Salem, Indiana and I'll take Briggs over theirs any day of the week. I miss the classic Briggs 3.5hp engine. I've had one for over 20 years that still runs just fine, but the deck itself is shot.
I run SAE 5W-30 in all my lawn tractors and snowblowers-throwers because snow blower Run in the cold and I use my tractors to pull sleds of sand for traction but push mowers etc is SAE-30 for warmer temps
I recently repaired the choke on my dad's b&s mower. The way the choke bypass works is such an interesting design. It's pretty neat how it works between hot and cold restarts. With that said, the b&s is so underpowered compared to my Honda mower. I could never switch!
I bought a very good Troy Bilt push mower to replace my Craftsman self propelled mower which was to be used on another property. Initially the Troy Bilt mower was fine until I had a hip injury and then even though it was light weight it was a burden to use. I’m going to get the Craftsman back, service it and use it once again. It’s a great self propelled rear wheel drive mower with all the right features. I’ll sell the Troy Bilt as it has low usage and I have maintained it well. I’m getting excited about getting the Craftsman back as it also has a manual choke Honda engine and starts with one pull. So sorry I didn’t keep it here. 😥
Bought a Craftsman mower with a B&S 6.75MRS in the spring of 2004. Did annual oil changes, drained fuel at end of each mowing season, changed air filter/spark plug as necessary. After 19 years of service it still started in no more than 2 pulls when cold. Finally had to replace because the handle rusted out and snapped off and i could not find a new one to fit anywhere. Felt really bad/dumb replacing a mower that still ran great over that, but after 19 years no parts are available anymore. Neighbors Dad took it, swapped engine onto a newer deck with all good parts and put it back into service. I am curiously watching to see how long it goes for, i hope they get another 19 years.
Good points on reasons for oil changes and other maintenance items. A push mower is okay for a small property but since I got my second self propelled mower (the first was a Toro with front wheel drive, had a Tecumseh engine and lasted 18 years due to meticulous maintenance) I’m convinced self propelled is the way to go. Reliability is a non issue with a self propelled mower now to me as have had zero problems. It’s a small price to pay to make the job a lot easier. Thanks for posting.
I live in a suburb to a large metro area. The sub was built in the late 70s. The lawns are not large. Mine is no different. I have a Troy-Bilt mower with a Honda engine on it. It's not self propelled. I don't need something self propelled for the size of the yard I'm cutting. It's just something else that might break. I like simple.
Husqvarna basic push mower was my favorite, but replacing the bagger (after 7 years of Alaskan summers and winters) was more expensive than a new Murray mower. Go figure.
Some of these old briggs flathead engines are just plain worn out. They are good if they have power. Lighter weight newer mowers easier to push in hotter weather. Briggs & Stratton 550ex I like those engines on a 21 inch push mower easy to push.
Got a question about the height adjuster, I kept the height on my basic Honda mower to the lowest level. Unfortunately here in Florida we have sandy soil and the sand acts like sandpaper on the blade to the point that it gets dull very quickly. So I decided to move the adjuster one level up to solve the problem, it solved a bit but now the grass is a bit higher than I would like. Since there's a bit of space between the last and second to the last notch, I was thinking of drilling holes between the two notches so my grass wouldn't be so high, do you think it can be done?
My favorite style Briggs engine to flip, even better if it’s a flathead. The two things I like about that style Briggs engine is the metal carburetor and the fuel hose has enough length to add a fuel shut off valve so carb bowl can be ran dry when time for fall storage :-)
Sorry for asking a lot of questions, but is it normal for a lawnmower to shake ? In this video, I'm new to working with lawnmowers, I don't want to blow 125 dollars on a crank shaft if it's apost to shake
Yes I would purchase a mower that is not self propelled. In fact the kind I prefer would be the one my wife would use. That probably is not going to happen however.
That stuff in engine oil, settled from sitting. I let them run 15-20 minutes use drain plug if it has one. Put object under mower to tilt it to drain more completely
Before I got my ego battery, I always went with cheap basic mowers. Cheaper to buy, less money down the drain if they break (I wouldn't be able to fix a mower like you), and its all I really needed. I don't even use the self propel on my ego, I like the extra excercise.
I got one just like this but its a self propelled one its been sitting in the weeds for about 3 years what should i start with first to try and get it running again
Mine is 15 years old, oil changed every season, tank run dry at end of season, new air filters, and runs on ethanol free gas. It's had one new plug and a new blade. It starts on first or second pull every time. Best $265 I ever spent.
What would be a good replacement carb for this? Mine has a bulb system that doesn't work and I'm tired of messing with it so I'd like to switch to a good carb. Thanks.
actually if you have a bulb and it's not helping you to start a cold engine I would remove the old gasket between the air box and carb and replace the gasket. If there's a leak at that gasket the primer bulb won't work like it should
Last week, and after seeing few of your videos, I decided to thoroughly clean my 8yo Al-Ko (I'm in EU) lawnmower with B&S 550E engine and I discovered that all 3 engine fixing point (steel chassis) were with cracks, more or less expanding around. And I've seen that the main difference between that 450$ Al-Ko and a 1200$ one is the thickness of the chassis, mine I think is 1.6mm, the stong ones are 2 or even 2.5mm and that makes A LOT of difference. I then ordered a new chassis (the rest is working well) and I'm preparing 3 reinforcement plates to epoxy glue (5400PSI strong UHU Endfest 300) on the new chassis (after removing a the paint where I'll fix them). That should fix the situation for a long time :)
I have a basic, no-frills, Tecumseh-powered Craftsman mower and Honda GCV160 HRN216VKA. The Honda is my goto, after two major heart surgeries I appreciate self-propel much more. My fiancée loves the Craftsman, paid $80 from a local pawnshop and it has started on the first pull every time. Both mowers have gotten lots of regular maintenence with full synthetic 10W-30, premium gas with Stabil 360 and always stored dry in my shop at the end of the season. Don't intend to replace either soon, kinda hope the Tecumseh engine will die so I have an excuse to find an old I/C 6hp B&S to stick on it.
I have three mowers that I use. A Toro Timemaster, a Husqvarna 22” self propelled and a 21” MTD aluminum deck push mower with a Honda engine. The MTD push mower is my favourite. It starts first pull, it’s very light, rolls easy and begs to go under bushes and trees without issue. I just couldn’t see parting ways with her. Cheers
Luv this mower besides the big back wheels these are all I use have 2 of em 1's curb find 1's my fathers both %100 original -oil,gas lol even the air filters oem on both my fathers has a new deck old 1 rotted away the new decks red old 1's black my fathers is a 08 the others a 04 prime style both start first pull most times. Next time you drive by wave I'll be the 1 mowing grass lmao. I'll by a Honda when all the Briggs and Stratton engines are all gone lol. Ps I've got 3 other b&s engines in the garage. Honda won't be getting my $ anytime soon. I don't switch teams when's things get alittle rough. I eat n sleep American. God Bless Our Poor Country.
I have a self-propelled craftsman similar to one in video (has no choke or primer) that takes about 14 to 16 pulls to get started. Any suggestions what the problem may be? Thank you.
sure, if you can confirm that the automatic choke flap, is closed when cold, that means there's an issue with the carb. If you want to, you can try and fix the carb, but I'd just replace it, because there's a better chance of it working.
Have almost this exact model, with a rear bagger and all black engine shroud. Purchased as my first mower in 2009, still going strong. Oil changes (and blade sharpenings) are really all its ever needed. Probably would use forever if not for the deck starting to get a rust hole near the bagger. I hope to keep it going for a few years yet. Might just have to get a new metal panel welded in.
We like our push mowers. They are relatively light and maintainable. I would recommend buying a better brand. They may be pushed out of the same factories under different brand names, but there are still quality differences. Love the videos.! 👍👍
I use both, self propelled and a regular push. The self propelled was purchased cause the place I moved to was significantly larger than before so it’s helpful.
Good video sir ! You spray lube the cable areas like I do; I also spray the lever stem- going into the handle as well. It seems like where squeaks originate. Great old mower.
I have a 2016 Cub-Cadet SC-100 21" 3-in-1, and a 2020 Hyper-Tough 20" side-discharge-only mower. I like both. With stabilized 87 octane gasoline and seasonal oil changes and air-filter and spark plug replacement, they're running fine. Have upgraded the 20" blade to a high-lift type. That increased the air resistance and stopped the engine-surging/hunting and improved the grass cutting performance.
I use Cub Cadet 20 ounce oil in the SC-100 and Briggs & Stratton 18 ounce oil in the Hyper-Tough. Easier math and less waste. But, as long as the oil is correct for the application, then I figure one need not lose sleep over it. :-)
Hi @Home Garage (again), sorry to come back to you, right I’ll tell you the full story of what’s going on, and also I got the model wrong, don’t ask how! (JCB LT26 2011) This has never been serviced as it’s doesn’t belong to me, I tried having a go starting it and see what happens and we thought it was junk, for some reason it seems to work better on half choke, because if I switch it to run it’ll immediately slow down and stall, and for half choke you have to keep revving it, and if you let it slow down it’ll bog down and struggle to get back up to high speed. I think it could be a clogged Spark arrester, or an air filter as nothing has been maintained, I’m hoping it isn’t done for as the actual engine will still go, but something is stopping it from working
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah I tried adjusting the L screw and it was idling for longer but then slowed down and slowly stalls, so would the carb need replacing if that is happening?
@@HomeGaragechannelwe ordered a new carb, so that should sought the issue, a new carburetor?? because it seems to me it doesn't get enough fuel at idle, something to with the jet being clogged so we are getting a new one, and that should work, what do you think?
@@HomeGaragechannel because when it is cold it starts very fast and the purge bulb works but when I stop to take a break after 5 min it won't start and the purge bulb doesn't work even if I pour fuel on the throat it still won't start after like a 15 to 20 min of no use it will then begin to start
The B&S Quantum engine is my favorite. Lots of parts available , 5-6 HP , easy to work on, and very dependable. Cheers!
Couldn't agree more!
got one I pulled off some neighbors' 'dead' mower.
Loose blade made it sound like blown engine. New filter, new plug to replace the fouled one. It's been more than ten years now on my Snapper deck. April 2000 production date. Quantums are unstoppable. Think it's the governed engine. Running at the same speed forever is under-rated! They go & go.
Love the B&S old flats, theyre bullet proof , but i also love the OHVs with the plastic carbs and ready start as well. 😂
I had an old Murray mower with the quantum engine before the Honda that I have now I picked it up off the curb for free and used it for about 6-7 years I had to get rid of it because it was getting unsafe to use I loved it because it almost never bogged down and the price was right
I don't understand why they got rid of this.
The lack of a primer button?
that's a good possibility
I have a self propelled and enjoy it 👍🙏👍🙏
noting wrong with a good self propel!
I just fixed one of these,self propelled though.good mowers
@@HomeGaragechannel yes
The Briggs Quantum engine is essentially a perfect design, you can't go wrong with them. I still don't know why B&S decided to release the EXi engines, those are problematic. Great video. OH, quick note for all, "Craftsman" is not a brand name, it is the name Sears put on the machines they had made for them by the lowest bidder, as well as their own numbers. Getting parts based on Craftsman numbers is a pain, but usually they are actually made by MTD, so you could find numbers from another identical machine that has the MTD numbers on it. Engine numbers and deck numbers are different, keep that in mind.
thank you for clarifying that
The flatheads couldn’t comply with emmisions
I found on my 2004 Craftsman that the part numbers cross reference to Husqvarna. Most part numbers are exactly the same, some take a little bit of research to find the cross reference, but not too bad.
You know it’s a good day when home garage uploads a fresh video 👍
I appreciate that a lot!
bulk oil is the way to go as the person who is mechanically minded in the family i end up servicing all the cars mowers and anything else that shows up been buying valvoline synpower 5w30 in a 60L drum for 15 years i don't care what the recommended oil is thats what it gets
nice!
Personally I use SAE 30 oil for equipment running in warmer temperatures while using 5w 30 in equipment used in colder weather. But as long as you’re using oil within the manufacturers specifications, just about anything will do
well said
Last year I fixed my stepdad lawnmower which was a Hyper Tough. He thought it was shot after seven years of use. It needed a new foam filter, tuneup and oil change and carb cleaning. The wheel fell off and he gave up on it. I sold him my self propelled snapper. Then I surprised him by fixing the wheel and giving it a tune up and gave it back to him. So I went electric and thought it was a good idea. Boy, I was wrong and let's not start down that horrible path. So I decided I would keep the electric mower and went this past week and decided my stepdad had such good luck out of the hyper tough that I bought me a brand new one for $247. It has a 300e Briggs and Stratton engine just like his. Those are simple and easy little mowers to work on. I also opted out to get me a brand new gas jug. Mine was very old and worn out.
nice work on your stepdad's mower and thank you for sharing that.
An electric lawn mower is only as good as the gasoline engine that powers it !!!
@@georgepruitt637 had a 'loaded' Snapper HiVac, Tecumseh 3 3/4hp with electric start, Gates dry cell batt. pack. Guess what died first? Ran it 12 years, then another 12 with B&S 'Sprint' 3 1/2hp, now I'm in my 37th year with it, a used Quantum, 13th year on the deck. Still no battery pack remounted!
Quantums need nothing but 18oz oil per season, a plug & filter every fifth year if you cut tidy dust-free sod! Love those beasties!
Hyper-Tough 20" mower, for the win.
Imagine being able to buy any brand new mower for $247!!!
Can't understand why people don't change the oil every year.
I know right!
Laziness
I always keep a simple push mower around. It's pretty hard to beat a Quantum for reliability.
I know right. As much as I try they just keep running.
I keep a basic mower. My yard is an acre so I use a rider but I like to use the push mower to get the edges and a lot of the tight stuff
yes I would do the same
Im so damn old, I used those old reel mowers as a kid. Then push mowers until my 20's & I got a Sears riding mower. Now divorced & rent, had a used Sears lawn tractor, got 4yrs out of it & @ 70, went from a used Honda to a new one (HRR) BOTH self propelled. Takes 2hrs to mow everything. So I'd RATHER have a rider but can't afford one so its self propelled.
that makes sense
Those quantum engines are important to run them dry for storage because of the rubber float valve seat, they just love to swell up. I have a couple of those Craftsman mowers just like that, one with a Quantum and one with the Kohler, I love them both.
yes you are correct!
This model engine is my favourite and I’m actually looking for a side throw mower!
yes, when it comes to ease of use, a good side throw works very well.
Back when I had a small lawn I had a 120 dollar WeedEater brand push mower. All I ever done to it was sharpen the blade, clean the sponge air filter, and replaced the diaphragm once. I still have it in the shed and it still runs after 13 years. I think more small lawn owners should use them instead of the ones with all the fancy stuff especially since a lot of folks now just throw away their stuff instead of fixing it. A lot less to tear up on it.
agreed!
These are just as good and lot better than the fancy ones that don’t start most of the time
Just keep carb clean and oil change
I buy all the broken ones I can get 😊
yep agreed
There is only one honest lawn mower repair shop in my town. I asked for a Briggs & Stratton flathead and they had only one. It happened to be a full dresser, bag, mulcher, and side discharge chute three-in-one with front-wheel self-propel 190cc 675 series. It was either buy that or don't get a flathead. So, I bought it. Its former owner broke it while it was nearly new and let it sit around for years to get old before they got rid of it. The lawn mower shop got it somehow. Now it lives on Easy Street with an oil change and air filter every year. The blade is sharpened and balanced yearly too. It drinks only ethanol-free airplane gas from the airport @$7.50 per gallon! The bottom gets cleaned after every use. It has to last forever because gas mowers are banned in California. It's a Brute, so I named it Brutus!
nice!
I have used a Lawn Boy since the mid 1970's. Always starts and the deck has a nice cut with a sharp blade. I replace the blade and foam air filter every couple of years. Like you I know how to service them and have no desire to replace it. Good Channel.
Thanks for sharing and I always respect someone who use a Lawn Boy.
I have had my LB Duraforce 6.5hp mower since bought new in 1997; in that time I have replace the starter rope once, coil once, blade prob 3 times, and cleaned the carb numerous times. Added fuel shut off several years back so I could run carb bowl dry during long storage periods; has always restarted in the spring😊
I prefer push mowers (and the large rear wheels). I never liked the speeds or pace of a self propelled mower. I have a large zero turn mower because we have several acres of yard. I do use a self propelled mower to trim around the trees but I always push. I inherited it but if I were to buy new, I would look for a simple one … maybe with electric start if my shoulder goes out with age.
very nice and I envy your lot size. Hopefully you still get enjoyment while mowing.
I prefer basic mowers. My yard isn't big enough to warrant the purchase of a self propelled mower.
I can understand the reasoning
Hey bro, what's up? I like these simple to use equipment. Even though they don't have all the fancy bells and whistles they are reliable once you do your maintenance on time, they should last you a lifetime.
yes they are! thank you Ramadin Sookhoo!
Could it be that they are Switching to Plastic Carburetors and that they Plug up so f'n easily with the Shitty Gas of today that is Not Pure Gas but has Corn in it... and are Decaying also because of it? At least the ones from Walfart do... Or that the Blades Bend even if you look at a Branch 1-1.5 in thick wrong? Or how the Engine Falls through the Frame just after 3 months owning it and having less than 5 hours on it because the Frame Rusted through because of the Cheap Ass "metal" they use? Or how the Gas Tank itself Melts from the Gas you put in it? And Walfart Refuses to take them back for ( insert reason out of Their ass here ) ..
they certainly are not the same machines from decades ago.
Thank you! A few quick searches of youtube leads to stories of the mower not wanting to start the next year. You have to either take the carburetor apart or replace it. So many warnings of how fragile the carb is and how easy it is to break something. So the reason why people get rid of these....The mower is junk.
When you check the oil with this kind of engine and dip stick, do you lock the cap in and then pull it out? Or do you just do what you did in the video?
locking it doesn't change the position so sometimes I lock it while other times I just make sure it's all the way down .
During the summer if it's really hot i use 30w or couple of times i've used 20w50 and never had any problems
that works too.
My grandpa has 3 of these types and he really enjoys using them. My lawn is 5x as big so i need a self propelled one
nice and that makes sense
I learned so much from your videos, thank you, keep up the good work!
thank you Blue Shadow, I appreciate you sticking around for them.
I have a self propelled mower and Dad has a standard mower. For small areas they standard is fine but for larger areas l want self propel. Because dad has a simple mower l probably wouldnt replace my self propel with a simple one.
that makes sense
Yeah one of our Murray mowers was running quieter than normal and was running slow and for the life of my dad he couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. He was mowing with it and accidentally hit a piece of concreate that was buried in our yard and the mower running slower was a blessing because it didn't cause any dmg to the mower. I said to him could it be the air filter and he said maybe and we took the air filter out and it was very dirty and once we cleaned it out the best we could until we get new ones and the mower ran a 1000 times better. He was very happy that I was able to figure it out.
very nice work in figuring it out
I have a Craftsmen front wheel drive with the 6.75 motor. ran the wheels off it and have recently replaced them. 20 years and still runs like new.
very nice, it should last even longer now.
I agree, that's why I love them
me too
Honda exits the mower market this year. MTD for the monopoly!
LOL!! you are correct.
That was an easy flip. Nice$$$
Yes it was
Great job. Nice mower. I don't put covers back on until the engine speed is set.
hey that's good advice!
I learned something....that aluminum cooking tray is a great way to dump the oil....
I have so many times struggled with dumping the oil and getting it to go into an old gas can
I wonder when someone was going to mention that to me. you're the first one. It only makes sense because we were just going to throw it away, before I decided to repurpose it.
I have and use a basic side discharge mower with a B&S 450e on it. The paint was faded on it, so I made a project of it for fun. I sanded, primed, and painted the deck black. Then put automotive parts stickers on it such as Autolite, Fram, etc. I service the mower once a year with oil change, spark plug, and wash and re-oil its foam filter. I sharpen the blade using a drill sharpening stone and balancer. The axles and brake cable get lubed once a year. The mower stays covered in a shed when not in use. When I fill the gas can, I put Stabil in the can so I can keep fresh fuel. The mower is on its ninth season for my use. I prefer a simple gas mower because if I maintain it, it will last a long time.
wow very nice work
The old Snappers were commercial quality, even though they weren't rated as such. We had 4 or 5 that were used every day all summer and required very little maintenance. I'd check the 00 grease in the gear box once a year and that was about it. They never leaked and if a belt broke or bearing failed I had a spare and it'd be back running in short order. All took the same parts so not much inventory either. That's why I kept the old 85 four horse; cheap to run and easy to fix. I can't tell much difference between the new ones and everything else so I'll pass on a new one. Thanks and Blessings
I can agree with that, I was wondering why they felt different to use when compared to other mowers
@@HomeGaragechannel The decks had WAY more suction that the new stuff. All the new stuff looks pretty well the same, just like vehicles. They would suck up pine needles years ago. My old 85 might still do it with a hi-vac kit. Blessings!
yes, from what I've heard their HI Vac system was the best.
@@HomeGaragechannel It was then but now all the decks look the same. Snapper had like a wind tunnel. It just worked better than anything else and we did a lot of bagging then too.
There's nothing wrong with a simple mower. I used one or two for a while when I was between Honda HR214 units. One was my Mom's Yardworks mower with an MTD PowerMore engine mounted to it, it only did two things: mulch and side discharge. It was good for mowing, light and very reliable. I still service that mower to this day and still think it's an awesome machine for its simplicity. The automatic choke function on it is even more basic than Briggs' system where it only uses a spring loaded wind vane up by the fly wheel to open the choke once it's started. There aren't any thermostats. The other I had was an old commercial Toro "pancake deck" mower with a two-stroke Suzuki engine. I liked that mower by the ease of starting (it has a choke system similar to a Honda on the throttle control), it was light, very quiet and reliable. I don't like Toro mowers as much as Hondas with the blade stop and shaft drive transmission as they can be hell when it comes to replacing the belts, and I had a Toro with a Suzuki 4-stroke engine, a belted blade clutch and belt drive 3 speed transmission. I have found Honda's blade brake systems more reliable than Toro's belt based system. Another non-Honda mower I liked and briefly owned was a Kawasaki powered John Deere with a BBC not unlike the design of Honda's where it used braking material instead of a belt, it was pretty good but the engine had issues.
The commercial mowers are definitely built to last, especially looking at Honda and Toro. The Toro commercial mowers I've had (the two mentioned above)the belts bothered me on them. I have heard that Snapper mowers are apparently pretty good, but being owned by Briggs and Stratton is a problem in my opinion. The commercial mowers, the top of the line mower Snapper has has a Honda GXV160 mounted to it which I found funny for a Briggs company.
agree!
My husband died last year and I'm learning to work on his lawn equipment to keep them all going. Even though your video didn't have the exact same model of my engine I was able to take it apart and get the mower running after sitting all winter! Thank you so much😁
my condolences and thank you for sharing that.
Answer:
Have never owned anything other than a basic mower. Not counting the riding kind.
I'm not really sure how to answer that. But yes.
@@HomeGaragechannel Haha that was just an answer to your question about preference: Basic lawnmower or expensive overengineered kind?
How much are you gona sell for. Cuz where I'm at they sell for 150.00 to 175.00 dollars 2 nd hand
Well, back in the day Craftsman used Tecumseh engines and their carburetors were always a pain in the ass when they weren't working and Tecumseh made literally dozens of different carbs so that may be why folks look at a craftsman push mower warily. That's why I've never bought one as I assumed they were still using Tecumseh engines. I worked for Tecumseh for 7 years in Salem, Indiana and I'll take Briggs over theirs any day of the week. I miss the classic Briggs 3.5hp engine. I've had one for over 20 years that still runs just fine, but the deck itself is shot.
thank you for sharing that
I run SAE 5W-30 in all my lawn tractors and snowblowers-throwers because snow blower Run in the cold and I use my tractors to pull sleds of sand for traction but push mowers etc is SAE-30 for warmer temps
that's a good choice
I prefer to do without the added complication of self-propelled features.
I recently repaired the choke on my dad's b&s mower. The way the choke bypass works is such an interesting design. It's pretty neat how it works between hot and cold restarts. With that said, the b&s is so underpowered compared to my Honda mower. I could never switch!
yes there is a definite difference, thank you Dennis Rindlisbach
@@HomeGaragechannel Depends on if it's a 3 horse Briggs and a 6 horse Honda.
Lol.my craftsman is 23 years old,still fires like new.
I take off that stupid handle hold for the rope and replace it with an older style.
I bought a very good Troy Bilt push mower to replace my Craftsman self propelled mower which was to be used on another property. Initially the Troy Bilt mower was fine until I had a hip injury and then even though it was light weight it was a burden to use. I’m going to get the Craftsman back, service it and use it once again. It’s a great self propelled rear wheel drive mower with all the right features. I’ll sell the Troy Bilt as it has low usage and I have maintained it well. I’m getting excited about getting the Craftsman back as it also has a manual choke Honda engine and starts with one pull. So sorry I didn’t keep it here. 😥
I'm glad you've got a plan ready to go on it.
Bought a Craftsman mower with a B&S 6.75MRS in the spring of 2004. Did annual oil changes, drained fuel at end of each mowing season, changed air filter/spark plug as necessary. After 19 years of service it still started in no more than 2 pulls when cold. Finally had to replace because the handle rusted out and snapped off and i could not find a new one to fit anywhere. Felt really bad/dumb replacing a mower that still ran great over that, but after 19 years no parts are available anymore. Neighbors Dad took it, swapped engine onto a newer deck with all good parts and put it back into service. I am curiously watching to see how long it goes for, i hope they get another 19 years.
wow, my guess would be yes 19 years easily
Seeing another mower being revived brings tears to my eyes!
me too!
Good points on reasons for oil changes and other maintenance items. A push mower is okay for a small property but since I got my second self propelled mower (the first was a Toro with front wheel drive, had a Tecumseh engine and lasted 18 years due to meticulous maintenance) I’m convinced self propelled is the way to go. Reliability is a non issue with a self propelled mower now to me as have had zero problems. It’s a small price to pay to make the job a lot easier. Thanks for posting.
I agree, as long as you don't abuse the self propel it should last for quite some time
I live in a suburb to a large metro area. The sub was built in the late 70s. The lawns are not large. Mine is no different.
I have a Troy-Bilt mower with a Honda engine on it. It's not self propelled. I don't need something self propelled for the size of the yard I'm cutting. It's just something else that might break.
I like simple.
me too!
Husqvarna basic push mower was my favorite, but replacing the bagger (after 7 years of Alaskan summers and winters) was more expensive than a new Murray mower. Go figure.
wow, I had no idea.
Some of these old briggs flathead engines are just plain worn out. They are good if they have power. Lighter weight newer mowers easier to push in hotter weather. Briggs & Stratton 550ex I like those engines on a 21 inch push mower easy to push.
light is nice but it also means less material supporting and bracing the engine
Got a question about the height adjuster, I kept the height on my basic Honda mower to the lowest level. Unfortunately here in Florida we have sandy soil and the sand acts like sandpaper on the blade to the point that it gets dull very quickly. So I decided to move the adjuster one level up to solve the problem, it solved a bit but now the grass is a bit higher than I would like. Since there's a bit of space between the last and second to the last notch, I was thinking of drilling holes between the two notches so my grass wouldn't be so high, do you think it can be done?
sure, I think so. just be careful.
My favorite style Briggs engine to flip, even better if it’s a flathead. The two things I like about that style Briggs engine is the metal carburetor and the fuel hose has enough length to add a fuel shut off valve so carb bowl can be ran dry when time for fall storage :-)
yep! I have to agree with you on both those points!
Sorry for asking a lot of questions, but is it normal for a lawnmower to shake ? In this video, I'm new to working with lawnmowers, I don't want to blow 125 dollars on a crank shaft if it's apost to shake
not really, it's okay to shake a tiny amount, and this is right on the edge of "too much"
Yes I would purchase a mower that is not self propelled. In fact the kind I prefer would be the one my wife would use. That probably is not going to happen however.
nothing wrong with a good push mower
That stuff in engine oil, settled from sitting. I let them run 15-20 minutes use drain plug if it has one. Put object under mower to tilt it to drain more completely
great advice!
Before I got my ego battery, I always went with cheap basic mowers. Cheaper to buy, less money down the drain if they break (I wouldn't be able to fix a mower like you), and its all I really needed. I don't even use the self propel on my ego, I like the extra excercise.
nice, I'm glad you're enjoying it.
6.75 hp. They don’t make those anymore. Much less quality these days.
agreed
That’s why I bought an electric lawnmower sometimes I don’t wanna deal with the maintenance
there's still some maintenance with the electric one if you read the manual. It's a lot of cleaning and lubricating
Hello sir ,what type of screw driver you used to open the top red cover of the mower. Please reply me . Thanks
you mean the one top of the engine? It's just a Philips head screwdriver bit in a drill gun.
I got one just like this but its a self propelled one its been sitting in the weeds for about 3 years what should i start with first to try and get it running again
I would remove the carb, and drain the fuel, then replace the carb with a new one, put fresh fuel in it, check the oil level and then try starting it.
What's the model number on this mower? I have one identical other than the deck is red. Need a bail handle cable
here you go
amzn.to/43BOkbd
and the model is 917388130
Because they said starts every time with one pull. Most of them stop starting after a yr or less.
it's a gasoline engine with a carb, I'd expect it to do that
The holes in the carb drain bolt are only there to help drain the fuel. It allows the drain to flow easily without taking it all the way out.
I did all that, it starts and stop, i see oil coming out the emission breather hose, is that okay
I'd need more information to make a determination
Mine is 15 years old, oil changed every season, tank run dry at end of season, new air filters, and runs on ethanol free gas. It's had one new plug and a new blade. It starts on first or second pull every time. Best $265 I ever spent.
Nice! you've got a great mower!
I do not like self propelled - it slows me down. I want a bagger. and reliable.
it makes sense
hey i got a lawn mower with briggs and stratton engine and it has a popping sound and it doesent stop dont know if it normal or not
I see, did you do any work to it, recently ?
People look down on those mowers because they are below their line of sight.
agreed
What would be a good replacement carb for this?
Mine has a bulb system that doesn't work and I'm tired of messing with it so I'd like to switch to a good carb.
Thanks.
actually if you have a bulb and it's not helping you to start a cold engine
I would remove the old gasket between the air box and carb and replace the gasket. If there's a leak
at that gasket the primer bulb won't work like it should
Ok, already did that but I'll try and find a good replacement carb for it anyways. Thanks. @@HomeGaragechannel
Last week, and after seeing few of your videos, I decided to thoroughly clean my 8yo Al-Ko (I'm in EU) lawnmower with B&S 550E engine and I discovered that all 3 engine fixing point (steel chassis) were with cracks, more or less expanding around.
And I've seen that the main difference between that 450$ Al-Ko and a 1200$ one is the thickness of the chassis, mine I think is 1.6mm, the stong ones are 2 or even 2.5mm and that makes A LOT of difference.
I then ordered a new chassis (the rest is working well) and I'm preparing 3 reinforcement plates to epoxy glue (5400PSI strong UHU Endfest 300) on the new chassis (after removing a the paint where I'll fix them). That should fix the situation for a long time :)
very nice way of reinforcing it!
I have a basic, no-frills, Tecumseh-powered Craftsman mower and Honda GCV160 HRN216VKA. The Honda is my goto, after two major heart surgeries I appreciate self-propel much more. My fiancée loves the Craftsman, paid $80 from a local pawnshop and it has started on the first pull every time. Both mowers have gotten lots of regular maintenence with full synthetic 10W-30, premium gas with Stabil 360 and always stored dry in my shop at the end of the season. Don't intend to replace either soon, kinda hope the Tecumseh engine will die so I have an excuse to find an old I/C 6hp B&S to stick on it.
ah yes, I forgot about medical reasons, thank you for letting me know
@@HomeGaragechannel Have you swapped HF Predator motor onto anything yet. Hope you get a chance to do such a video.
yes I swapped one on a Toro aluminum deck once, after that I couldn't find the engines anymore at the store.
I have three mowers that I use. A Toro Timemaster, a Husqvarna 22” self propelled and a 21” MTD aluminum deck push mower with a Honda engine. The MTD push mower is my favourite. It starts first pull, it’s very light, rolls easy and begs to go under bushes and trees without issue. I just couldn’t see parting ways with her.
Cheers
nice range or mowers!
Luv this mower besides the big back wheels these are all I use have 2 of em 1's curb find 1's my fathers both %100 original -oil,gas lol even the air filters oem on both my fathers has a new deck old 1 rotted away the new decks red old 1's black my fathers is a 08 the others a 04 prime style both start first pull most times. Next time you drive by wave I'll be the 1 mowing grass lmao. I'll by a Honda when all the Briggs and Stratton engines are all gone lol. Ps I've got 3 other b&s engines in the garage. Honda won't be getting my $ anytime soon. I don't switch teams when's things get alittle rough. I eat n sleep American. God Bless Our Poor Country.
thank you for sharing that
People look down on them because they sit on the ground.
well said!
I was just given a Craftsman 37430 that looks like it was hardly ever used, this video will help me greatly!! Thank you so much!!!
Glad I could help!
Is it bad to have the metal showing on the block like it is in this video
not sure what you're getting at, can you give me a time stamp so I know what it is you're asking about.
I have a self-propelled craftsman similar to one in video (has no choke or primer) that takes about 14 to 16 pulls to get started. Any suggestions what the problem may be? Thank you.
sure, if you can confirm that the automatic choke flap, is closed when cold, that means there's an issue with the carb. If you want to, you can try and fix the carb, but I'd just replace it, because there's a better chance of it working.
@@HomeGaragechannel Thank you kindly...
no problem
Wish you had some of them Murray Walmart specials
me too
Those engine with red top are good .I fixed one recently
nice job
What liquid did you use to flush out the remaining oil?
it's gasoline
Did you pour gas into mower to clean out the old dirty oil?
yes I did
Have almost this exact model, with a rear bagger and all black engine shroud. Purchased as my first mower in 2009, still going strong. Oil changes (and blade sharpenings) are really all its ever needed. Probably would use forever if not for the deck starting to get a rust hole near the bagger. I hope to keep it going for a few years yet. Might just have to get a new metal panel welded in.
very nice work on keeping the mower going, and yes I'd try the patch method too.
We like our push mowers. They are relatively light and maintainable. I would recommend buying a better brand. They may be pushed out of the same factories under different brand names, but there are still quality differences. Love the videos.! 👍👍
thank you Dan Pags, and I always appreciate good advice
i went from basic to self prapel since its mush easier to use
yes it can definitely make it a bit easier to use.
30w or 15/40 that’s all I keep 😊
good choice
My dream push mower is a Ranch King with a 3.5 hp classic Briggs and Stratton motor. I had one and wish I would have kept it
wow nice mower!
if you were to suggest a brand what would it be?
sure, I'd recommend the pervious honda.
Thanks for another good video. What do you tork the blade to and do you use Loc tight on it? Also, were you just using gas to flush the oil?
thank you Randy Cody I use "feel" but If I had to guess, about 45 ft/lb and no I do not use loc tight
@@HomeGaragechannel I think I use about 50 to 55#. Is that gas you used to flush the oil?
Thanks again!!!
yes it's gas but you have to give it time to dry out, since you can't get all of it out by dumping it.
I use both, self propelled and a regular push. The self propelled was purchased cause the place I moved to was significantly larger than before so it’s helpful.
that make sense
I have had this mower for 16 years with no problems other than a mouse nest in the auto choke mechanism. Probably one of B&S's best engines ever.
yes these are great engines!
Good video sir ! You spray lube the cable areas like I do; I also spray the lever stem- going into the handle as well. It seems like where squeaks originate. Great old mower.
yep you're about the squeaking! and thank you
I have a 2016 Cub-Cadet SC-100 21" 3-in-1, and a 2020 Hyper-Tough 20" side-discharge-only mower. I like both.
With stabilized 87 octane gasoline and seasonal oil changes and air-filter and spark plug replacement, they're running fine.
Have upgraded the 20" blade to a high-lift type. That increased the air resistance and stopped the engine-surging/hunting and improved the grass cutting performance.
I use Cub Cadet 20 ounce oil in the SC-100 and Briggs & Stratton 18 ounce oil in the Hyper-Tough. Easier math and less waste.
But, as long as the oil is correct for the application, then I figure one need not lose sleep over it. :-)
nice thanks for sharing that
First
How much do you sell the mower for?
depends $80-$200 depending on branding and features.
Hello my dads Honda mower has a blade brake clutch and if you let go of the blade lever just a bit it disengages any idea why?
I meant blade handle
I'm going to guess there's an issue with cable, and it needs to be replaced .
Thank you very much for the suggestion
anytime
Hi @Home Garage (again), sorry to come back to you, right I’ll tell you the full story of what’s going on, and also I got the model wrong, don’t ask how!
(JCB LT26 2011)
This has never been serviced as it’s doesn’t belong to me, I tried having a go starting it and see what happens and we thought it was junk, for some reason it seems to work better on half choke, because if I switch it to run it’ll immediately slow down and stall, and for half choke you have to keep revving it, and if you let it slow down it’ll bog down and struggle to get back up to high speed.
I think it could be a clogged Spark arrester, or an air filter as nothing has been maintained, I’m hoping it isn’t done for as the actual engine will still go, but something is stopping it from working
it's possible however I believe the carb is the issue
@@HomeGaragechannel yeah I tried adjusting the L screw and it was idling for longer but then slowed down and slowly stalls, so would the carb need replacing if that is happening?
@@HomeGaragechannelwe ordered a new carb, so that should sought the issue, a new carburetor??
because it seems to me it doesn't get enough fuel at idle, something to with the jet being clogged so we are getting a new one, and that should work, what do you think?
either service or replace it.
it should sort it out.
Should a chainsaw start when it's hot if you put fuel on the carbs throat
yes it should
@@HomeGaragechannel well mine doesn't or am I pouring to much
yes too much will cause the engine to flood, and it's not going to start then
@@HomeGaragechannel because when it is cold it starts very fast and the purge bulb works but when I stop to take a break after 5 min it won't start and the purge bulb doesn't work even if I pour fuel on the throat it still won't start after like a 15 to 20 min of no use it will then begin to start