IKEA Solhetta bulb teardown
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มิ.ย. 2023
- This video was supposed to be about one version of the bulb/lamp, but it turned out that the box had two different bulbs in it, so it became a double teardown.
One oddity is that the resistor I thought was 510K is actually 5.1 Megohm, which is an unusually high value.
IKEA seem to have stuck with buck regulators for their bulbs which is strange in this era of cheap linear regulators. I'm not sure if there's a significant efficiency advantage of using a buck vs linear regulator. But it may keep some of the heat away from the LED panel.
I think I prefer the simplicity of modern linear regulators with their single smoothing capacitor and no high frequency noise.
As with most IKEA products I'd guess they are designed with a bias to lasting longer than products from other brands.
The 6 pin buck regulator with built in rectifier is new to me. It makes sense, and also benefits from a wider pin spacing for better electrical separation.
The higher power lamp is the only one that is easy to hack for a lower output and massively longer life. The hack would involve removing one of the very low value sense resistors. I removed the 8.2 ohm resistor and the power dropped from 6W to 2.3W. Removing the 12 ohm resistor instead would give closer to 3.5W.
If attempting to open lamps in the way I did in this video, be aware that there are still glass ones in use, so take care to make sure the cover is soft plastic before attempting to squeeze it to release the adhesive. Also be aware that once the cover is removed it exposes live connections on the PCB when powered.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of TH-cam's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
There’s an example we’re told about during induction, about how IKEA’s design ethos/method varies considerably from the norm - the designers for the LED bulbs were given the challenge to make an LED bulb for a retail cost of €1 - after much frustration and designing using low cost components they couldn’t design one that met the high standards they wanted. Then they looked at what would happen if they used the expensive components, but purchased them in extreme bulk - which allowed them to actually get considerably higher quality components, but utilise IKEA’s method of large scale manufacturing to get a sun €1 bulb that had high quality components.
This was many years ago so the price is no longer as good, but thought you’d find it interesting
The nostalgia of IKEA and ethos appearing in the same sentence. IKEA is now basically "Global capitalist Poundland"
@@mipmipmipmipmip This lamp, on its own, argues against that. This is a really well designed lamp, focused on high efficiency and high lifespan. vastly superior than the overdriven lamps with inefficient linear regulators you'll get pretty much anywhere else.
@@robertbackhaus8911 Most of their flat pack furniture is crap though.
@@R_Fordedoes anyone else sell similar things for a similar price? I agree plenty of their products aren’t going to last decades, but you’d pay several times as much for something that would (I think, I rarely buy furniture and never “good” stuff), while IKEA seems to hit the “good enough” mark at an affordable price.
At least the quality has improved greatly, the first IKEA LED bulbs lasted about a year but the last I bought about four years ago still shines...
That happened to me too! I bought what were labelled as warm 40W equivalents by IKEA and got something you'd shine in someone's face if you wanted to know where they were the night of the 12th. I now have a very bright bathroom.
Actually it was a good thing to get a mixed package since we got to see two different lamps. Two for the price of one!
I work in appliance development, and the story behind the british flag on the EU efficency label is hilarious.
After Brexit, the UK wanted their own efficency rating system. But the EU regulation does not allow for any other efficency label to be shipped with the appliance to avoid confusion.
Which ment that if the UK insisted on their own label, all products would have to be UK specific, which would cause prices to spike dramatically and many companies would simply not bother anymore.
So, the compromise they arrived at was that as long as the only thing that changed was the flag, they could do that.
Brexit in a microcosm!
can't beat a bit of bureaucracy eh
🤡
The post 2019 EU rating system is amazing. All a tier bulbs are definitely the best money can buy so no need to use up time researching
I can confirm the second one 'reviewed' is the Solhetta bulb. I know this because I have plenty of those and did some mod experiments already. I made a kitchen lamp with it, with 6 panels stripped (components) and one panel with a driver, a total of 7 panels on one driver! Works great, removes the heat, very energy efficient (I measured 3.4W) and plenty of light (points). It runs for about 0.75 year now and it is great. I did similar the first time with another IKEA bulb and with 5 panels (I call this version Frankenstein ;-) ). Still going strong.
The first one I made was easier because the driver can be easily separated from the panel like the first one you showed us. It is very easy to take one driver and a few panels. Because there is a current limit this is possible and the current for each panel is divided by the number of panels used in parallel to the driver. Benefits: No heat, last forever, more light points that can spread the light (compensation for 1/x current) and you have plenty spare drivers/components.
If you want to do the same I did, buy the bulbs from the same batch because the manufacturer can change the electronics inside (for example new lower cost version) but can be still the same product name.
Love to see how you did all that..
I was working on an idea like that with MR16 downlights, gutting three and using the driver of one to driver all three. Brings the temps way down. I just have to make it some what more "non ugly" before I'll be allowed to put it up lol
p.s. every led "bulb" I've ever had fail it was the driver, never the LEDs. But then removing the LEDs from the driver housing should make it last much longer I assume.
Lamp with longer top contact is a rudimentary design from older models, where connection between board and E27 was made via connector, so you can easily place and take out driver from lamp body without soldering, etc. Older Osram 10W lamps which look identically were made like that, in fact they were made on the same production line, Leedarson as i know.
Interesting to see the EU / UK regulation reset trying to combat the trend of too-few LEDs pushed too hard to save a buck while reducing their lifespan and efficiency. I wonder if we'll see any knock-on effect of that here in the US. It'd be nice to have some metric when comparing bulbs to know which ones will actually last in hard-to-reach fittings.
I did recently purchase a bunch of over-powered bulbs for those fittings, with a plan to hack them to a lower spec, thanks to your advice on this.
I did replace E14 40W 230V satin incadescdent Lamps in a double chandelier with 1,4W Filamente styles Led when i was younger.... Now i am 34years and none of them have failed 😂
How do I know? They are on a pir sensor and I have zero replacement bulbs and I can't reach them without a wooden construction in the hallway😂
Ebay "cheap" ones 48 pieces came to a whooping 140€ years ago...🎉🎉
It is possible to make them last ❤
@@kitecattestecke2303 its 'luck' as to how hard they drive the led chips...
I don't exactly remember how long ago, but every LED driven bulb/fluorescent tube replacement i've bought so far has survived since i bought them.
The fist one must be hitting its seventh year so far. Though i don't have them powered all the time.
Either way, i used to replace incandescent bulbs every 6-9 months and over time that cost me as much as one of these LED bulbs and TIME and ANNOYANCE.
I am so happy that LED just works better.
@@RealCadde they will vary depending on quality and design ,worst one i had was about a couple of months, longest so far , couple of years or so, still going, but as its in a partly enclosed fitting, it gets quite hot..
Look at the fine print directly on the bulbs. You want ones which specifically say they are suitable for use in enclosed fixtures. Also calculate the lumens per watt, which AFAIK is what the A-F scales do.
_"FLOOMPENLAMPENBLOOMPEN"_ does describe it well, Clive.
Well, it's what the Swedish Chef would have said, isn't it?
It is indeed what the Swedish chef would say. The actual Swedish below reads "eat meatballs".
The correct Swedish word is "flumpelampeblump". Floompenlampenbloompen is actually dutch. Common mistake.
"Eating meatballs" is the correct translation of "äta köttbullar". "Eat meatballs" would be "ät köttbullar".
@@Scartkabelin german, we say alpenrampenampellampen
The last Solhetta was close enough. The word means Sun heat, the heat felt from the sun shining.
IKEA stuff may appear cheap or tacky to many but it's quite evident, especially in breakdowns like these, that they're really not there to scam you or sell dangerous products. They're just a bit over decent for a good price (being like £1-2 per lamp) and should be held in a high regard.
Notice the bench bow as Clive uses "unreasonable" force.... 8-).
If iKea makes bulbs any more difficult to open, we might have to contribute to Clive needing a stronger bench!
Regards,
K Watt.
I have a bunch of Philips LEDs that have the exact same design and similar component choice as the 6W Solhetta. Wouldn't be surprised if Philips was the OEM for IKEA LEDs. Also, IKEA has a dimmable 6W 806lm version as well, would be interesting to see if there are any differences.
I should have bought a dimmable one too.
More likely, Phillips and Ikea are getting the same company in China to build them.
@@OmegaSparky Philips lighting is actually a company called Signify these days. They have quite a lot of operations in China. The bits of Philips that aren’t actually Philips are doing a lot better than the bits that are still Philips.
@@katrinabrycesed to work at a company owned by Philips before they threw their entire entertainment lighting branch to the Chinese after closing us down, then rebranded to Signify.
Philips wanted to focus on their healthcare and industrial divisions at the time.
I think that was around the same time the division managers changed hands a couple times over 5 years after the "reduce costs, claim bonus and resign" fad tore through.
@@katrinabryce The only bit of Philips that is still Philips is the medical tech division. That says a lot about a company that started out making light bulbs over a century ago.
There is a stark component count difference between the simple ones and the more well engineered ones. Thanks for the insight Clive.
I'm not so sure this type is better engineered. The linear regulators are super simple and have low electrical noise.
As a Swede, I love your pronunciation of "the heat of the sun".
SOLHETTA = SUN HEAT (as in heat from the sun, you can feel the "sun heat")
Almost nailed the pronunciation. o in Swedish is longer as in English in 'pool' other than that, perfect.
Thanks Big Clive. Interesting exploration as always!
when i was a kid, i never expected to watch a BGB packaged engineer tearing apart light bulbs and detailing the schematics, you save me so much money on electronics!! uhhh i dont actually know of a single product you've taken apart that prevented me from opening something but it could happen! also i probably learned stuff about electronics i didnt already know, thanks!!
whats a bgb? ball grid bear? bad giggily brunch? bollywood greymatter brain? barely gooey bananas? take your pick if any of these fit better!
The triangular glue blob is silkscreened on just like solderpaste so the triangle is there for another reason. I would bet it is there to show the orientation needed as those boards are put through a wave solder machine. The glue keeps the small components from falling off while they are immersed in solder.
I thought one of the bulbs may have been designed to be also made as a bayonet cap variant. There were three hohes in the plastic where the centre was used for the cap spike in the one you destroyed/reverse engineered. Great to see these videos - don't know how you do it in the time. Phil
Zee datasheet - love it! Shout out to Ralfy whose love for Whisky lured me in and subsequently sent me down this awsome rabbit hole here… among the best channels on YT.
Both lamps are amazing we have them all over the house with no issues, purchased lamps from the likes of B&M and haven’t lasted long one of which was 100w equivalent and it was getting dimmer ever so slightly
Nice video Clive I chuckled at your “Stud in the bottom” lol😂
was wondering about that rating thing, thanks for clearing that up I thought it was just manufacturers found a new way of cheaping out
An ad in the middle of your vid. That's new Clive?!
Great exploration as usual. 👍🏻😀🇬🇧
It's a test.
The ikea lamps I've bought have been really quite reliable. I've actually been a bit upset about the poor reliability of led light bulbs in general (lasting far less than incandescent bulbs).
I checked my box, both of them are 3.4 W. So someone has been swapping lamps.
The sense resistors are indeed on a separate board, and not on the LED board. This makes it almost impossable to tame down the lamp, just in case you want a 1 W lamp.
On a plus note, the higher power lamp does have the sense resistors on the front (12 ohm and 8.2 ohm in parallel). So lopping one off lets you choose a lower power rating. (More info in the description.)
I like the bridge rectifier built straight into the driver chip design. I prefer the buck regulator bulbs, as they work well with half-wave DC input, that I have in some of my circuits. They can also handle a wide range of input voltages, both AC and DC.
Unexpected twofer. Nice!
I wasn't paying attention until a long stud up the bottom was mentioned!
These thumbnails keep getting better! 😆
We got our money's worth this time. Two designs in one box!
The first tear down one with thermal conductive plastic housing is how everyone i have taken apart to fix has been most common design in US market only one i have seen in a bunch of bulb teardowns
Brilliant! I was hoping you would make a beard trimmer from the lamp base. Yet, I am not disappointed.
"Ikea "bucked" the trend ... " Good one Clive! LOL
That 50k resistor in the second lamp is putting in a lot of work. Almost half a watt by my calculations
LEDs are very efficient, and have a long lifespan, especially when run at a low current.
I do not understand why manufacturers use buck regulators, which take a lot of room and can have multiple points of failure, while they could put more LEDs run at a lower current by a linear regulator (or even resistors !), and put an aluminium radiator with cooling fins in place of the buck regulator.
Of course a buck regulator is more efficient, but many LED bulbs fail way before their advertised lifespan, and they consume so little power anyway, that it would make sense to have a bulb 2x less efficient if it can last 2x longer.
Now get one of those candelabra-base bulbs. Damned things look like regular hotwire bulbs, with the glass shell, COB "filaments", and all the electronics in that skinny little base. And a lot of those nowadays are "no flicker" or "no strobe" rated, too.
Lots of outlets in the UK sells light bulbs with Edison socket. Sadly in my home all light fixtures and chandeliers require UK bayonet light bulbs. Most of the other homes I've seen only use bayonet light bulbs, both standard and small.
I have no use for the E27 Edison light bulbs to this moment.
The UK is peculiar. Many appliances that in Europe comes with a charger or a power adapter, are shipped to the UK without one, because of the non-standard power plug.
Thank you for the video,
Greetings
Anthony
You can get adaptors from BC to ES.
I just picture gif/meme of Fred from scooby Doo pulling the mask off, and it's himself under the mask who has been changing lamps 😂
What a lucky man! Got two different lamps to tear down for the price of one package!😃
Ah, another LED lamp executed ;)
By the way - can't remember if I stated this already as comment to one of the former lamp videos - you can open those lamps without any observable destruction.
First:
If you've got a stable - preferably ceramic - lampseat, mount the lamp into it. The Seat offers a far better grip, than the lamp thread.
Very often the transparent top comes off without any other tools than your crafty set of hands needed.
Second:
Get your hotair-gun and moderately heat up the thread, after a minute or so you can easily unplug the plastic housing from the thread.
A lamp disassembled this way, can be reassembled showing no signs of damage.
Awesome Video big clive
Thanks for video !!!
Lolol, Äta Köttbullar you crack me up Clive🤣👍🏻
The shifting of goalposts... Erm efficiency grades.
_"folded these little panty flaps over on the-the panty wings"_
LOL.
"They've Glued It On With Silicone And Then Folded These Little Panty Flaps Over On The Panty Wings, To Hold That In Place" 08:25
- You're running hot tonight, Clive. I had to check if indeed I was watching electronic circuit analysis, and not something else.
I tapped that link for 08:25 and immediately got an ad for Always Discreet
There a very large IKEA centre at Tempe Sydney down under near my work . Every time I go there, I come out with a seriously bad swedish accent that lasts for days. 😂
Like eggs, I always open the box to check the contents before I buy.😀
Ikea was doing a few bulbs with a C rating energy rating last time I was in. You should get some bulbs from Toolstation as they do a few surface mount bulbs with an A energy rating, 3.8w 806lm for the cool while and the other is actually a B rating and uses 4.3w and is 806lm but it is a warm white bulb
Bonus! It's interesting how different the two are, especially if they're from the same manufacturer.
"Somebodies been stuffing boxes" Woah!
My first LED bulbs were from Ikea, back when the 2-packs were ~30$.
I do no regret being an early adopter.
The early LED lamps were often very reliable.
I've come to like the Ikea stuff that we have purchased. Mostly the stainless racks and kitchen hangers I have purchased. I wasn't fond of visiting the store, but that's another comment.
Hi Clive, it would be nice if you could explain in a future video how current sensing works in this type of lamps or even in general. I was just searching youtube and I couldn’t find any good reference for those circuits. Thanks for the video!
Most use a simple low value resistor and measure the voltage across it. The higher the voltage, the higher the current.
Nice score...two for the price of two :)
"unreasonable force" 🙂
People never measure these for RFI/EMP ratings. Some of the LED lamp power supplies might make good mini diathermy machines.
yep, you can bet they'd swamp out AM radio
4000k is a nice colour
@2:09 - This is me trying to open a lamp like Clive. I always resort to my comically large set of vintage Craftsman water pump pliers to help me achieve my goals.
I don't think the long leads on the caps of the 6W lamp are to place them out of the heat. I think it's done so they can fit the entire thing through the hole in the heat sink XD
The fact that they aren't as close to the heat this way is probably just lucky in this case :p
I think some of the GU10 IKEA lamps are possibly built to the "fewest overrun LEDs, minimum life" design. I've a range of GU10s in my house and I find some of the IKEA ones suffer infant mortality - less than 3 months. Unfortunately they have solid glass envelopes, not plastic, so they would be difficult to take apart to find out what went wrong.
Change over to the Phillips ones they are nice in GU10.. Me got some 3.2W from Phillips when on sale now they are 3,8W GU10 with "warmglow" ... You will like them and out of 24x put into a concealed metal round light none have failed 😊
Usually these type of lamps the front lens is still a separate part siliconed or glued on. I have found some brand all glass GU10 bulbs that had lens come out very easily._
How old are these? I have a load of 2W Solhetta GU10 warm white bought this year. With 230lm output they seemed the most efficient around. They appear to have a reasonable component count from what I can see through the glass package with 8 LEDs, 2 X 4 pin SMT chips of some sort, a small transformer (I think) and 6 or 7 other components. They run very cool and claim 25,000 hours life.
The GU10 housing was never designed for heat dissipation. It's a tough environment for LEDs.
@@simonbeasley989 These are the LEDARE 7.5W 600 lumen 2700K GU10 lamps. The newest purchased within the last year and "taken into stock". I've had several fail if you include their brothers with E27 bases. Now I admit that IKEA make most of the bulbs I have, so you would expect more of them to fail, but one in particular lasted less than 3 months in an IP6 bathroom fitting, so it's a bit of a s@d to change. Its predecessor (not IKEA) had been there 9 years. And there are a good minority of various other brands. Maybe the LEDARE design is now obsolete and I should buy some SOLHETTA ones the next time I'm there - or switch brands to, say, Philips.
That's the best name ever
FLOOMPENLAMPENBLOOPEN
Mix and match....always a gamble.
Some time ago they had launched a campaign of cheap light bulbs at 1 euro per unit, but these light bulbs had a very bad lifespan. Some time later they disappeared and these sets of 2 lamps appeared, more efficient in terms of consumption and it seems that they are also reliable, however a little more expensive
I wouldn't be surprised if the white powery glue is some sort of Boron Nitride Paste compound for thermal conductivity.
A floopenlampenbloomper? I'll take a dozen!
Would you be willing to make a video on how to read circuit boards/schematics, I love watching these videos and I can mostly follow along but whenever it gets to the circuit board or schematic reading I'm almost always left confused, Idk how popular the video would be so i cant say if itd be worth the time but i think itd be a great video to help people like me who are still learning or just arent as into electronics.
"You Know There's A Little Stud That Goes Up The Bottom ......"
"........Look At The Length Of This One, It Goes Right Up The Inside" 04:10
Oh yes, Clive, so it does.
Kinda like for Probes, eevblog Dave's [battery test] monkey
oo, matron 😜
Yes, worth remembering, to don’t do that, yes. ;) Thanks Clive.
Ikea has recently released a 5.9 W (806 lumens!) variant for the E14 socket, a very small form factor, and this variant is barely larger (just a few mm) than the usual 3.4 W (470 lumens) models we usually encounter on this socket.
It seems Ikea has established a new record for this form factor, and I would be very interested to know how well this model perform, in particular concerning heat dissipation.
I am officially miffed by the fact that we are mostly offered stupid warm white LEDs and stupid cold white morgue lighting. Why not go for the middle which is the best color temperature for most general lighting?
Agreed. I buy 3300K lamps whenever possible, a pleasant yellowish white rather than the dim oranges or harsh blues that are so bizarrely prevalent. But they can be hard to find.
Agree. I stumbled on 3500K, 900 lumen bulbs that were perfect once. And then Lowes never carried them again. They all died after about several years.
Oh goddamnit Clive, I genuinely believed “floompenlampenbloompen” and wanted to hear you say it :(
You have to say it like the Swedish Chef on the Muppet Show.
LOL
@2:09 my non-destructive way is going for the heating station and the right spudger.
I like adding capacitors to the Amazon LEDs, for 0 flicker and soft on/off
be careful, depending where the cap is, it may cause higher dissipation in the regulator chip, if it uses one
Possibly Mr Cao Quang Dong Duong had some part in the unusally large 5.1Meg resistor to deploy the design rapidly in higher Voltage countries ?
In the US, everything has theft-indicative stickers over the box flaps to prevent product swapping like this.
With the new energy rating system, Crompton Lamps have created a small range of ultra efficient LED bulbs that are A rated on the new scale and use LED filaments. They claim to use about half the power of a standard LED lamp for the same light output
Have they used the approach of using lots more LED filaments than usual?
that was a lucky random with that odd circuit in the mismatched one :)
I bought these and was amazed by the price. Someone put one in the loft light despite my concerns about condensation and LED bulbs in an unheated space. The bulb died in a matter of days! Halogen it is...
Yes, that was always the advantage of old-fashioned tungsten filament lamps. I have some in outdoor locations where they rarely get used and they're still working after nearly 30 years.
Interesting to see an IKEA object fully assembled, requiring you to take it apart to investigate...
Have IKEA missed a trick in not producing flat pack luminaries ?😏
Floompenlampenbloompen indeed =D That's the sub-arctic northern swedish way of naming any sort of light-source! The sun, regular (now-banned) bulbs, halogen bulbs, LEDs, HIDs, oil lamps, propane lamps, a slight glow on a hot piece of stick that's been in a fire...
ÄTA KÖTTBULLAR is just a dog-whistle at this point!
It's a good battle-cry when faced with a polar-bear on the streets of Luleå, though, usually that makes the bear retreat!
Some dumb kid probably was bored and thought it would be funny to switch bulbs around, great video like always!
Clive these IKEA bulbs are interesting especially the current regulation one where they set the current through the LEDS with a low ohm resistor, they remind me of the LED bulbs I bought from china back in april 2022 I bought 5pcs of 18W where I had 18 leds in a string. They used a brightpower BP2863 buck regulator and the current was set through a 1.6ohm resistor I changed it to 4.7ohm dropping the output more in half they ended up at 55-60Wish, been using them regularly over a year and I think they will last for a long long time. At the 4min20sec marker can the other two holes be for GU10?
Yes looks like GU10 spacing, or even B22D, with the appropriate pins in the base crimped on.
But how do you close the lamps properly again?
Generally watching the 2 types of drivers, we Indians call the 3.4W as FULL DRIVER & the 5W as SEMI DRIVER by watching the driver construction
Curiously, there is a "2861" IC by Diodes Inc. for driving LEDs but with a dimming function.
Perfect pronounciation for "Solhetta" at least for a non native swedish speaker.
Did anyone else get really nervous when Clive left that dodgy Chinese tester switched on when he was checking the bulb?!
IKEA in-house design or some other OEM?
They also have C rated Solhetta filament type bulbs.
My boyfriend gets very annoyed that I have to look at bulbs in every shop we go in. He thinks I'm autistic. My mums a teacher and she also thinks I am.
I have no idea why but I'm obsessed with finding the most efficient bulbs. 95% of the bulbs in shops are absolute junk im terms of efficiency though... I think its because of cost cutting but most LED bulbs from supermarkets have got worse over the last 10 years in terms of efficiency. Hopefully this new energy rating system will encourage supermarkets to want an "A" rating on their products. I work in Asda and a customer wouldn't buy the bulbs because they have an E rating on them, she wanted the lowest power bulb and I did try to tell her that she probably wouldn't use that much power from our 4w bulbs.
While I am obsessed with efficiency and yes efficient bulbs will last longer I do think people over-estimate the portion of power lighting uses in their homes. I know an old man (my partners grandad) who will sit in the dark to save power. to be fair he did have a few incandescent bulbs in the bedrooms. I replaced those bulbs and got him an ultra efficient bulb for his chair sidelamp and as far as im aware he no longer sits in the dark as I convinced him it didnt use that much power. He said His electricity bills haven't increased when I asked a few months after and he said hes not sitting in the dark.
It's a shame I can't do what I've done in my own home, add capacitors in the switches to reduce the power consumption, you can even make then dimmable by adding a multi switch to either bypass or add more capacitance. I did try to add a bypass 22nf capacitor to our bathroom but I think because it turns on the extractor fan it didn't light the 3.8w 806lm LAP bulb I have.
You may actually be autistic. This is a good thing.
I have Solhetta in my work lamp. After hours of continuous use they are not cooking itself, compared to their chinesium counerparts.
heh have a bunch of those efficiency stickers from installs. Now decor.. because more text.
Hey Clive, I need your advice, two days ago my flat burnt down, my dehumidifier looks like it decided to go up in smoke, what the hell could have caused it tk fail so badly? Also this channel got my actually into electronics in the first place, is it worth continuing on as a hobby, or is there some point in your life where you wish you'd just left it alone - part of me worries they'll try and blame me some how because I was I the middle of a few radio and tv restorations
There's a terrible history of dehumidifiers bursting into flames and I'm not sure why. Maybe the motor capacitor failing with flames or an electronic failure.
If you know the make and model do a search to see if it has a history.
As a Swedish man your pronunciation was pretty decent
You got a bargain Clive because the 6 watt version costs about 7 times more than the 3.4 watt version. At least where I live.
I did not know that SMDs where also glued in place.
Might not be an internal diode, might be another MOSFET to do synchronous switching
I wonder what the LED configuration of the 120V version would be like?!
I want to buy all these fancy new LED lights, but my 10 year old LEDs just keep on working. 😅
Would you be interested in some LIFX bulbs? We've just replaced 9 of them with Hue lights due to reliability issues - we've got the B22 Plus bulbs with infrared LEDs for night vision security cameras and some older gen 3 bulbs. I wouldn't feel comfortable selling them given the problems we've had with them. We're located in Bedfordshire, so posting them over shouldn't be an issue.
What happened? Did the bulb still work, but you can't change the settings, because it's not detected? I had that problem with my first one that I was testing, after a thunderstorm.
@@RJARRRPCGP No. The majority was general connectivity problems, likely due to the ESP32 series SoC used in them, it’s known for being somewhat unreliable. Lights would randomly fall off the Wi-Fi, often for hours at a time.
There are a million guides out there that try to fix those problems, from changing your network SSID over making sure you only have a 2.4Ghz network with the SSID up to having a separate router for the lights. I’ve tried them all with little improvement, but let’s be honest, if you have to change your entire Wi-Fi setup to accommodate a light bulb, the problem is not the Wi-Fi setup. Additionally, we run a dozen other connected devices, none of which show any signs of connectivity problems.
That in turn would cause issues with google assistant, ranging from “couldn’t reach 5 lights” to the whole Lifx service being unavailable and nothing working.
Then there were individual bulb failures as well. Some would suddenly only work only with a delay, even after physically switching them on. The most recent failure was a light getting stuck in reboot mode, constantly cycling through colours at a slow pace, before getting stuck on green, without any connectivity.
We’ve now had Hue bulbs for about a week. In terms of light, they’re worse, as they don’t go as dim and colours can’t keep up with the brightness rating of the bulb or the sheer intensity offered by Lifx, but they work 100% reliable so far. And in the end that’s all I care about when I want to switch them off from my bed at 1am or on at 9pm while we’re out on vacation.
You mentioned datasheet...but it is a circuit diagram.