I should have added in the video that the primary shroud is still very straight, and there is only a minuscule amount of aft-ward deflection, so the primary shroud chain plate on the beam takes the vast majority of the sailing loads. The aft pad eye is taking no more than 1/8 due to multi-part purchase, minus friction, minus the side pull angle - I haven’t actually done the math on this but it’s very small and probably only a few percent of the full load.
we use that pad eye for our spinnaker lead block. I see yours are attached a little inward to the beam. Otherwise, looks great! We just got Colligo shrouds and need to figure out how to quickly do this, as we have to fold/unfold one float to enter/exit slip each time we sail.
@@johnsutphen7121 We used that pad eye for our spinnaker lead block initially too, but found that it was too far outboard because the apparent wind moves so far forward on this boat as it accelerates. For example the true wind can be at 150' (e.g. broad reach for a monohull) but the true wind is closer to 60' apparent once the boat gets up to speed, so I had to move the blocks inboard. I use soft shackles to provide flexibility for both the spinnaker and screacher blocks.
This is the kind of video all new and even experienced Corsair owners look for. Thank you so much for putting them together for the benefit of everyone. I hope that you will inspire others including ourselves to do the same!
This is one of the questions that has come up again and again in the forums, and trying to describe it in writing has been so much harder than with a video. And iMovie makes editing videos so easy!
Thanks for this. I am finishing the build of an F9A and have incorporated the carbon chain plates in the floats. I have the Colligo deadeyes and I now know how I can safely fold and unfold the boat. Ps the boat is cedar strip epoxy with nomex bulkheads and furnishings with an Rutan R rotating mast.
I am ordering mainsail from UK Sidney BC hope to sail the boat this coming summer. FYI I have Colligo ELHF and a used hank on jib from a C31R. R style fold up bowsprit without any Screacher or Spinnaker or furlers yet. Want to get sailing and camping and only race whoever we encounter!
I’ve had at least 10 sails from UK Sidney - it’s a great place! Our hank-on jib and main are UK Tape Drive, and our screacher and spinnaker are also from there. We use a Harken furler on the bowsprit for the screacher. Hope to see you out there!
@@SailingTipsCa thanks I would like that. Keep up the Sailing tips I hope more people see it. I liked the soft shackle test. The crown knot is tough to remember. The spinnaker episode was good as well. And the bowlin one!
@@garthharrington9683 Thanks - it’s been fun to try and share some of these things I’ve picked up through the years! I’m planning on doing some more Farrier-related videos on mast raising, integrating the pulpit with a bowsprit support, and reefing!
Thanks for this. I wish you had been making these videos a few years ago when I began setting up my MkII. I used a similar solution. I keep the shrouds tied off slack enough to fold easily. Then I tighten them with a line from the upper terminal back to the end of the ama. That line locks with an “inline” Clamcleat. It’s a little cumbersome, but it also allows us to let the leeward shroud go slack on the few occasions when we have to run straight downwind. I used soft shackles to make the attachments easy to remove, but I can’t recall the last time I undid them.
Yes there are lots of ways to lock off the line from the upper terminal. You could even lead it to a turning block at the aft end of the ama, then to a block/clutch in the cockpit if you wanted to adjust the leeward shroud underway.
thanks another great video and I will do something like this setup too now I have seen yours. BTW I like your system better than the ones I have seen that have a fixed 8:1 lashing and then pull the upper colligo fitting towards the rear pad eye, because your system keep the load mainly on the carbon chainplate rather than sharing it between the chainplate and the pad eye. I dont have a rear pad eye such as yours so would need to add one. I would need to reinforce the Ama at that point. What sort of reinforcement do you have?
There really isn't much force on the aft padeye with this setup because as you noted the primary chainplates take most the force. I think over-drilling the holes and filling with epoxy so you don't crush the core, plus an aluminum or G10 backing plate is sufficient. Good luck with your new boat!
Hello Gary, I just stumbled across this video while searching for a quicker method to fold and unfold our F-28. This looks to be a great solution. I am wondering if you have a source for the small adjuster that you have in the stopper position. I have done a bit of searching but haven't managed to track down that small bit of hardware. Thanks for your content, always helpful and entertaining. James
No unfortunately I don’t have a current source for that small adjuster. However if I were to do it again I’d just use a normal low-friction ring spliced into the stopper position, then a 2:1 line terminating on the aft beam padeye, through the low-friction ring, back to the aft beam padeye, then towards the cockpit for termination on a clutch or clamcleat. Does this make sense?
@@SailingTipsCa Yes that makes sense and does seem simple. A second option I had considered was to use two dinghy vangs I already have from previous boats. Basically a 3:1 purchase with camcleat. I would attach them to a stopper and the aft padeye. only 3:1 and rated for 700lbs, but I feel this would be adequate as there shouldn't be much load in that system. What do you think of this solution?
@@jflimbo Yes that ought to work and should be plenty strong for that application. The key is to have some kind of stopper spliced into the primary shroud lashings so the failure of your adjuster won’t cause the rig to come down!
The unplanned lateral rapid lowering happened as follows: I had just replaced the mast raising wires with Dyneema, and instead of splicing the mast ends separately I just cow-hitched the pair to the tang on the mast - first big mistake because a cow hitch slips in Dyneema!!! We had backup halyards attached to the floats so everything seemed fine when we disconnected the main shrouds (which we also no longer do). When we arrived at the ramp there was about a 20 knot crosswind, and I had to ease the backup halyards to fold, because they were attached to the floats, not the mast raising brace - second big mistake!!! Folding the downwind side went okay because the wind kept the mast upright, but when I released the upwind halyard the cow hitch started slipping, and I couldn't get the halyard back on fast enough, so the mast simply went over the side. Thankfully the downwind float was already folded, otherwise it might have been damaged. The halyard and cow hitch did slow the mast somewhat, but the masthead still landed with a thunk on some rocks adjacent to the ramp. Somehow the boat itself was miraculously undamaged, and the only damage was some dents near the masthead, which we pulled out and reinforced with a backing plate (aluminum mast). I felt really stupid afterward, but learned lots!!!
2 days ago! This is epic me and my dad have been trying to find the best setup for a while now. Where is that base plate from do they have rollers in them? Also just curious is this a rotating mast?
@@SailingTipsCa the white section on the ama was what I was curious about. is it just a different calligo mount? Also I have seen the tensioner with small rollers or are the ones you have solid
@@Aeroworks540 Perfect - thanks for the clarification! This particular boat is a custom built F-82R with integral chain plates of carbon and epoxy. But this approach should also work for factory-built Corsairs etc. There are no rollers in any of the standing rigging components. The Dyneema coarse and fine tensioners (actually Amsteel in this case) are inherently low-friction and slide nicely over smooth surfaces with no rollers required.
Nice solution. But still a lot of ‘metal’ stuff involved. I just use 2 Wichard shackles and 3:1 lash 4mm SK75 to tighten to knot off. And a 6mm spliced ‘over’ the system (always on) to represent the HField ‘open’ pos. as safety loop around. Fool (me) proofand fail safe. Watch my videos to see it on water. Nice clean cheap ‘system’ no fine tuning needed. Just a re do after heavy sailing beginning season with Dyneema re setting. I can take lash end to U bold to mimic your system and knot off. :-)
I like your system too, especially the 6mm lashing to support the mast in the 'open' position! We also typically don't fine tune, except if we've been sailing in big waves, which tends to make the rig slightly sloppy.
Do you mean an update on how these are working? We’ve used them for a few years now and they generally work great! I have a few design tweaks in mind though…
@@captguitarj I think it is worth the trouble…when sailing in rough seas the shrouds can stretch a bit and having to go out on the floats to fine-tune discourages one from doing so. That would be the main improvement I’d make!
Yes that’s definitely more convenient and safer to be able to fine-tune from the cockpit. The key is to think beyond a traditional lashing for finishing off the Colligo turnbuckles.
I should have added in the video that the primary shroud is still very straight, and there is only a minuscule amount of aft-ward deflection, so the primary shroud chain plate on the beam takes the vast majority of the sailing loads. The aft pad eye is taking no more than 1/8 due to multi-part purchase, minus friction, minus the side pull angle - I haven’t actually done the math on this but it’s very small and probably only a few percent of the full load.
we use that pad eye for our spinnaker lead block. I see yours are attached a little inward to the beam. Otherwise, looks great! We just got Colligo shrouds and need to figure out how to quickly do this, as we have to fold/unfold one float to enter/exit slip each time we sail.
@@johnsutphen7121 We used that pad eye for our spinnaker lead block initially too, but found that it was too far outboard because the apparent wind moves so far forward on this boat as it accelerates. For example the true wind can be at 150' (e.g. broad reach for a monohull) but the true wind is closer to 60' apparent once the boat gets up to speed, so I had to move the blocks inboard. I use soft shackles to provide flexibility for both the spinnaker and screacher blocks.
This is the kind of video all new and even experienced Corsair owners look for. Thank you so much for putting them together for the benefit of everyone. I hope that you will inspire others including ourselves to do the same!
This is one of the questions that has come up again and again in the forums, and trying to describe it in writing has been so much harder than with a video. And iMovie makes editing videos so easy!
Thanks for this. I am finishing the build of an F9A and have incorporated the carbon chain plates in the floats. I have the Colligo deadeyes and I now know how I can safely fold and unfold the boat. Ps the boat is cedar strip epoxy with nomex bulkheads and furnishings with an Rutan R rotating mast.
I am ordering mainsail from UK Sidney BC hope to sail the boat this coming summer. FYI I have Colligo ELHF and a used hank on jib from a C31R. R style fold up bowsprit without any Screacher or Spinnaker or furlers yet. Want to get sailing and camping and only race whoever we encounter!
Glad it was helpful - that sounds like a really cool build!!!
I’ve had at least 10 sails from UK Sidney - it’s a great place! Our hank-on jib and main are UK Tape Drive, and our screacher and spinnaker are also from there. We use a Harken furler on the bowsprit for the screacher. Hope to see you out there!
@@SailingTipsCa thanks I would like that. Keep up the Sailing tips I hope more people see it. I liked the soft shackle test. The crown knot is tough to remember. The spinnaker episode was good as well. And the bowlin one!
@@garthharrington9683 Thanks - it’s been fun to try and share some of these things I’ve picked up through the years! I’m planning on doing some more Farrier-related videos on mast raising, integrating the pulpit with a bowsprit support, and reefing!
Thanks for this. I wish you had been making these videos a few years ago when I began setting up my MkII. I used a similar solution. I keep the shrouds tied off slack enough to fold easily. Then I tighten them with a line from the upper terminal back to the end of the ama. That line locks with an “inline” Clamcleat. It’s a little cumbersome, but it also allows us to let the leeward shroud go slack on the few occasions when we have to run straight downwind. I used soft shackles to make the attachments easy to remove, but I can’t recall the last time I undid them.
Yes there are lots of ways to lock off the line from the upper terminal. You could even lead it to a turning block at the aft end of the ama, then to a block/clutch in the cockpit if you wanted to adjust the leeward shroud underway.
thanks another great video and I will do something like this setup too now I have seen yours. BTW I like your system better than the ones I have seen that have a fixed 8:1 lashing and then pull the upper colligo fitting towards the rear pad eye, because your system keep the load mainly on the carbon chainplate rather than sharing it between the chainplate and the pad eye. I dont have a rear pad eye such as yours so would need to add one. I would need to reinforce the Ama at that point. What sort of reinforcement do you have?
There really isn't much force on the aft padeye with this setup because as you noted the primary chainplates take most the force. I think over-drilling the holes and filling with epoxy so you don't crush the core, plus an aluminum or G10 backing plate is sufficient. Good luck with your new boat!
Hello Gary, I just stumbled across this video while searching for a quicker method to fold and unfold our F-28. This looks to be a great solution. I am wondering if you have a source for the small adjuster that you have in the stopper position. I have done a bit of searching but haven't managed to track down that small bit of hardware. Thanks for your content, always helpful and entertaining.
James
No unfortunately I don’t have a current source for that small adjuster. However if I were to do it again I’d just use a normal low-friction ring spliced into the stopper position, then a 2:1 line terminating on the aft beam padeye, through the low-friction ring, back to the aft beam padeye, then towards the cockpit for termination on a clutch or clamcleat. Does this make sense?
@@SailingTipsCa Yes that makes sense and does seem simple. A second option I had considered was to use two dinghy vangs I already have from previous boats. Basically a 3:1 purchase with camcleat. I would attach them to a stopper and the aft padeye. only 3:1 and rated for 700lbs, but I feel this would be adequate as there shouldn't be much load in that system. What do you think of this solution?
@@jflimbo Yes that ought to work and should be plenty strong for that application. The key is to have some kind of stopper spliced into the primary shroud lashings so the failure of your adjuster won’t cause the rig to come down!
You mentioned an unplanned lateral rapid lowering of the mast - was there any damage to hardware, mast, or fiberglass/hull?
The unplanned lateral rapid lowering happened as follows: I had just replaced the mast raising wires with Dyneema, and instead of splicing the mast ends separately I just cow-hitched the pair to the tang on the mast - first big mistake because a cow hitch slips in Dyneema!!! We had backup halyards attached to the floats so everything seemed fine when we disconnected the main shrouds (which we also no longer do). When we arrived at the ramp there was about a 20 knot crosswind, and I had to ease the backup halyards to fold, because they were attached to the floats, not the mast raising brace - second big mistake!!! Folding the downwind side went okay because the wind kept the mast upright, but when I released the upwind halyard the cow hitch started slipping, and I couldn't get the halyard back on fast enough, so the mast simply went over the side. Thankfully the downwind float was already folded, otherwise it might have been damaged. The halyard and cow hitch did slow the mast somewhat, but the masthead still landed with a thunk on some rocks adjacent to the ramp. Somehow the boat itself was miraculously undamaged, and the only damage was some dents near the masthead, which we pulled out and reinforced with a backing plate (aluminum mast). I felt really stupid afterward, but learned lots!!!
2 days ago! This is epic me and my dad have been trying to find the best setup for a while now. Where is that base plate from do they have rollers in them? Also just curious is this a rotating mast?
Glad it's helpful! Yes it's a rotating mast. Which base plate are you referring to?
@@SailingTipsCa the white section on the ama was what I was curious about. is it just a different calligo mount? Also I have seen the tensioner with small rollers or are the ones you have solid
@@Aeroworks540 Perfect - thanks for the clarification! This particular boat is a custom built F-82R with integral chain plates of carbon and epoxy. But this approach should also work for factory-built Corsairs etc. There are no rollers in any of the standing rigging components. The Dyneema coarse and fine tensioners (actually Amsteel in this case) are inherently low-friction and slide nicely over smooth surfaces with no rollers required.
Nice solution. But still a lot of ‘metal’ stuff involved. I just use 2 Wichard shackles and 3:1 lash 4mm SK75 to tighten to knot off. And a 6mm spliced ‘over’ the system (always on) to represent the HField ‘open’ pos. as safety loop around. Fool (me) proofand fail safe. Watch my videos to see it on water. Nice clean cheap ‘system’ no fine tuning needed. Just a re do after heavy sailing beginning season with Dyneema re setting. I can take lash end to U bold to mimic your system and knot off. :-)
I like your system too, especially the 6mm lashing to support the mast in the 'open' position! We also typically don't fine tune, except if we've been sailing in big waves, which tends to make the rig slightly sloppy.
Where would that video be located, Robert?
@@djmydlack what video?
Any tips specific to rigging a Corsair 970?
I’ve never been on a 970, but then again I’ve applied lots of things I’ve seen on other F/C boats to my F-82R, so ideas are definitely transferable!
Any chance of an update on the water?
Do you mean an update on how these are working? We’ve used them for a few years now and they generally work great! I have a few design tweaks in mind though…
@@SailingTipsCa Yes, I purchased them for the C28, and I’m trying to se if having an adjustment in the cockpit is worth the trouble.
@@captguitarj I think it is worth the trouble…when sailing in rough seas the shrouds can stretch a bit and having to go out on the floats to fine-tune discourages one from doing so. That would be the main improvement I’d make!
@@captguitarj Yes what Sting says!!!
..and you always have to walk to the amas...the lines shouid go back into the cockpit. Just for safe seamanship.
Yes that’s definitely more convenient and safer to be able to fine-tune from the cockpit. The key is to think beyond a traditional lashing for finishing off the Colligo turnbuckles.