Evening Adam, just another day at the office. Welcoming, peace, love, and brotherhood, back into the 🌎 of Plastering. Bringing you the most comprehensive encyclopedia of free plastering video’s ever put together, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Kirk and Jason Giordano with over 800 videos 🎭 👀💃
I am not in the business, but the way you present your work makes this very enjoyable to watch. You obviously are a true craftsman-a dying breed. Tough to find good contractors now-a-days. You should have your own show. Best to you, sir. - Jim
James Wagner Howdy James, that comment made you my newest and bestest pal, we should have our own show. Also, if I do anything incorrect I am now responsible to redo it at my cost and my own time. Been there done that, hopefully that stage stays in the long ago forgotten past. Thanks for watching and have a great day Kirk and Jason giordano’s plastering team
I'm a plasterer from Ireland living in California About 15 years with my small crew. Happiest times in my life carrier wise. Plastered thousands of homes, never use a sandpaper. Had 100% customers satisfaction. I'm glad to see Kirk's videos. Wish there were more people know about this way of plastering. I've done a few projects here in LA and the clients were stunned by the quality and efficiency. Thanks Kirk for your time and effort for presentation of your finest skill
Hi Paddy, thank you, hopefully folks will get the message, It's tough for folks to change. Best wishes and have a Fantastic day! Kirk Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
Evening Mike, I like your style, best wishes, Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of, “Cement Plastering.” 🌍 With over 800 educational and free TH-cam videos, by your favorite plaster geek, “me🤓” and my son, “Jason,” the bearded plasterer.💃
Evening fak892, thank you, veneers are the way to go. harder water resistant and stronger. I feel anyone who can apply mud can apply this veneer plaster. Best wishes and have a Fantastic New Year! Kirk Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
Yup, you got it. Most people think compound is cheaper (which it may be in the short term) but when you factor in all the repairing of dings because it's so soft, it probably ends up being more expensive. Most people don't realize that compound is just limestone dust mixed with white glue and water. Complete crap IMO. My home is 3 coat veneer plaster over gypsum lath. Walls are hard as rock. Never have to repair dings or dents. Ever. I sincerely hope the trades move back to veneer plaster.
Morning mario jorge, thank you, I'm one in many sharing the most Popular plastering, stucco, and application of applying Render, (Render is Europe's terminology for applying plaster) videos. To help folks understand how to and why. Best wishes to my friends in Portugal, where my father was also from. kirk giordano
Hi Black Swan, thats just me rambling since we had to turn the radio off, glad you found some useful tips, Cheers, and have a Fantastic day! Kirk Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips hi. Sorry, I was reading the comments section when I wrote this. Yours in the video were good, but this comment thread was over the top valuable. Thanks to all who participated!
I'm just a 45 yr old handyman and most of my work that iI love is finish work. Meaning that I come in and make the home look nice. I don't have much experience at all in plaster and stucco. I'm comin around though. Very helpful for me, I'm a hands on guy and love my work. Thanks for so much help.
Good Evening Fred, thank you, Cheers and now kick back relax and enjoy the Superbowl. FYI, all of us here at the giordano plastering channel we wish to thank all our subscribers and those of you who accidentally stumble on our channel a happy and prosperous new year kirk giordano plastering
Hey Kirk very good job i also do your job here in my country germany i like this so much this is not only a job this is passion right ,really great videos
hello Gunther Thomas from Germany, thank you, my mom was French and spoke german and 3 other languages, but English was difficult for her. I too love to apply plaster and stucco, keeps me in shape plus pays for quality food. Cheers! Kirk Giordano Plastering
that's just crazy! i have been finishing drywall now for almost 40 yrs i was7 or 8 when dad started taking me out and i loved the environment but hell back then there was no video games or much to do period. well about 10 yrs. back i got into stucco ad just dominated people on matching patterns and now here in north eastern Fl. i'm the man to call . but i have to say i'm definitely going to give this plaster a shot i can see already how drywall mud just don't compare in any way.
Good afternoon Bryon, cool crossbow my fellow plasterer or mudder. You already have the talent as an applicator, learning the veneer plasters do's and don't wont be so difficult. Live long and plaster teaching repairing your number 1 investment, your home
Another great video. And boy,does the plaster make sense over that taping mud and all the insidious dust it causes. Thank you for sharing your expertise. Your the best !
Another good one, Kirk......I'm a plastering,restoration guy...since 1966.....Do you ever read these comments? I also like to use Imperial Base with Diamond over it, like in one of your vids....Your trowel use is seemingly effortless. So wonderful to see. I'm doing a bedroom tomorrow in an 1810 farmhouse..the walls and ceiling have been re-keyed,repaired and fastened...and coated with bonder, one coat of Imperial base. I darby-ed it prior to set somewhat...Now I have a lot of suction to deal with while applying white coat.....
Hi Robert G, yes, I do read the comments, if it were me I would have a spray bottle or hudson sprayer to mist the walls so that you finish coat does not set to fast, especially if you have big walls, Best wishes, Kirk giordano Plastering
Good evening my friend, thank you. Our unique plastering Tip: all subscribers or anyone who stumbles on our channel with a question, type it into our Stucco/Plastering channel, and like magic, a video will appear to explain how it's done. This feature is miles ahead of any plastering forum. 🥳 Kirk & Jason Giordano Plastering
Good instructional video. I am going to do this inside my 1950’s home. Starting in a closet. He makes it look so damned easy but I know I will struggle at first. Let’s hope the closet doesn’t have too many errors.
Greetings Andrew, Man, I sho-nuff like your style. Our unique plastering Tip: all subscribers or anyone who stumbles on our channel with a question, type it into our Stucco/Plastering channel, and like magic, a video will appear to explain how it's done. This feature is miles ahead of any plastering forum. 🥳 Kirk & Jason Giordano Plastering
Kirk, I love your videos. You're a true master. I'm remodeling my house and want to plaster over a painted wall (1/2" drywall) which has orange peel texture and latex paint. I want the wall to look like dark concrete / cement wall panels that are 4 x 8 vertical as if it was a formed solid concrete wall. I'm unsure how to prep the wall and if I should attach some sort of metal screen (like thin expanded metal sheet) or a fiber mesh. I would assume I'd also want to roll on some sort of primer or bonding agent over the latex first too. Regardless, I just want this to be solid and not crack. It is of course "faux" and decorative in it's nature, but I want it to look like the real deal, complete with a troweled vertical seam every 4ft. I've also seen a video of a plasterer / faux finish guy that pressed clear acrylic against the wet plaster, removing it the next day so this creates some voids and air pockets to create the releif/embossed effect that you get with real formed concrete. Any help or advice here would be greatly appreciated.
@@oldowl4290 Think of lime plaster as liquid rock, it’s actually lime putty when applied it resorts back to rock, lime rock. Now go to a cement yard and buy some black pigmented color, I believe it’s called “Lamp-Black” add it to your lime plaster. Now you add fancy troweling to meet your goals. Fastest and easiest way to achieve what you’re after. I wouldn’t try and reinvent the wheel.😉
As a seasoned drywall finisher, who considers himself to be pretty damn good with a trowel, I think this system is a pretty awesome. Few questions for you if you don't mind: - Is the plaster going to stop screws from being able to "pop through" the plaster? (wood shrinkage being the main culprit here) - If I had a butt joint, with an 1/8' gap between sheets, would you pre fill this first, or mesh and fill over it? I see room for movement there, and wonder if the plaster can hold it all in place? (when the house settles) I think that you can get a much more consistent finish, (with guys who are good with a hawk&trowel ) this way compared to conventional taping. I have a hard time with trusting mesh tape in professional applications. How about your corner angles? Mesh tape too? Do you use cornerbead on outside corners and inside 45's? Thanks for opening my eyes.
Hi Jeff, If you can apply taping mud you can apply this material as it's actually easiers. The base coat is so strong nails heads won't pop through at least I have never had this issue. I use fiberglass mesh tape on all my inner and board to board seams, and yes we use corner beads for strength and easy plastering. Once you apply these finish your sanding days will be over with taping mud. Cheers! kirk giordano
Hello Mr. Giordano! Thank you for all your videos. I've been trying to watch your techniques to apply to a project I am working on. We have standard drywall throughout our house with at least the most recent coat of paint being latex. Additionally, we have popcorn ceilings. I'm working on the first room now and I've stripped down the popcorn, sanded the ceiling (Drywall Sander w Vacuum attachment), retaped the ceiling, then sanded the ceiling and the walls (the walls with a stronger grit to create additional surface area and perhaps some mechanical advantage). My plan had been to personally skim coat the ceiling and walls with drywall joint compound and then finish it with a drywall topping compound. Watching your videos, I'm considering - either myself or through a professional - using a plaster veneer 2 coat system like you've shown. My hope is to get as close as I can to a completely smooth surface. I am wondering what the advantages or disadvantages would be between (1) keeping my current drywall (and using plasterweld) and (2) switching my current drywall out for blueboard and using plasterweld on it. I've read that plaster on standard drywall tends not to spread and gets moved around more than it does on blueboard. I am also wondering if, perhaps, blueboard is less flexible and would resist cracking in the plaster over time better than standard drywall. I am also wondering whether, if I replaced the drywall, I should replace it with thicker drywall (on a theory that, perhaps, it will be more rigid). Could you tell me your thoughts on these various issues? Could you tell me whether keeping the current drywall would cause problems for application of veneer and/or the longevity and durability thereof? Best Regards, Jeremy
Good evening Jeremy dude, even if I had cash to burn, I'd still leave the sheetrok, paint it with Plaster weld bonding agent then apply this same veneer system, if done properly it will outlast both of us and then some. Live long and plaster Sharing the plastering knowledge
Been taping for 20 years the formula i use is dura-bond first coat and rapid coat finish coat of course there is still some sanding but i use a shop light when sanding an it makes for a near flawless finish.
Good evening James. LOL, as what you suggest is the absolute truth.😉 The most complete plastering encyclopedia in the world on video, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Over 850 free self-help videos 🎭 👀💃 Subscribers, you can depend on us to explain with truth, honor, experience, and skill for your time invested for wishing to learn the hows and whys of plastering.😉
Kirk, you're a true master of you're trade! I've watched all of your videos on interior plastering. Bless you for creating such a comprehensive video encyclopedia of plastering. I have to repair holes from a recent repipe of my house. My walls are plaster veneer over gauge plaster over rock (gypsum) lath (1953 construction). No one in the Tucson area repairs these walls so I have to do it myself. In your videos you repair with plaster base coat/plaster veneer, OR with 20 minute mud. I'll be using drywall with a bonding agent as the substrate (cannot find blue board). All but one of the walls has orange peel "texture", and the outlier has spanish knockdown. My primary question is: When do you choose the 2 coat plaster vs 20 minute mud? Thanks Kirk!
Howdy Adam, I just did this last week and we did video it. I used a 20 minute mud, and left the old cedar lath on where we could, in areas where there was nothing we broke out the perimeter and attached wire mesh the 3.4 wire, and did use the twenty minute mud. It will be an amusing video as I rambled as usual, thu, I lost the mud sort of, it took all my strength to apply this setting or stiff joint compound to the ceiling. Ceilings work is defying gravity, so it was good the joint compound I was using was in set mode, but it took my strength while my skill's sat on the sidelines and enjoyed my penalties for rambling when I should have been plastering. Goog thing I'm a strong man, funny that hour of strength rather than skill did beat me up.😉 Bottom line I got it done and lived to plaster another day.
Evening Shannon, thank you. Welcoming, peace, love, and brotherhood, back into the 🌎 of Plastering. Bringing you the most comprehensive encyclopedia of free plastering video’s ever put together, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Kirk and Jason Giordano with over 800 videos 🎭 👀💃
Hey Kirk, I feel like I know you from watching so many of your videos. Really well done man. Its great how you have your whole family involved in your business. You are a true pro. I have a small bathroom I want to plaster. It had wallpaper, and in the process of scraping off the old wallpaper glue much of the paper came off with it. The drywall looks to be white paper. The house was built in the 60's. Its not down to the gypsum, but close I would guess. Do you think I can still plaster if I clean well, apply a good coat of bonding agent, apply a base, then a finish? Or do you think I need to go with drywall mud to skim, then bonding agent? Don't want to replace the drywall and start from scratch? much appreciated. Chris
Evening Chris dude, good question, what I do is take as much off that will come off done wisely, any left over paper that may lift due to moisture I then scrape off. I apply a bonding agent usually plaster weld, note Plaster weld is mostly water, again the water can still lift any areas that are still holding tight like a sock in a dryer, then I'm ready to mud, whatever mud you choose is up to you and what you wish to achieve, cheers, kirk giordano Rendering
I am impressed that you replied to me. I would have thought with such an old video u might not have. Thank u. Also, how cool is it that you have so many people around the world watching and enjoying your videos. I really enjoy them btw. It is a little strange, but I find myself watching these often. Better than a tv show or something. It wouldn't surprise me if you end up with your own cable show or something like Bob Vila if you wanted to. Thanks again and much success to you and yours. You have an awesome family.
Good evening Jogo Dude, thank you, my friend The most complete plastering encyclopedia in the world on video, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Over 850 free self-help videos 🎭 👀💃 Subscribers, you can depend on us to explain with truth, honor, experience, and skill for your time invested for wishing to learn the hows and whys of plastering.😉
Great video. I was looking for some info on plastering over painted Sheetrock and I think I found my answer thanks to your video. One gripe I have is the stuff you said about taping mud. I’m a professional taper and we don’t do it like that. We do our first two coats with “hot mud” which is a powder that you mix up and comes in either 20, 45, or 90 minute working times, and then our final coat with plus 3 (and a thin coat of plus 3 dries in about an hour). I can have a wall from the first coat to ready to paint in one day (the more you know :D). Anyway, I’m definitely going to try the plaster weld stuff. Oh and I’ve been using a pool trowel for plastering for years too! Great videos!
Howdy Eddie, my fellow mudder, thank you, your method of using the drywall mud than the other to keep moving is similar to this way or plastering. I was referring to the fella's who makes the three typical trips then sand. Live long and plaster Sharing plastering information, as the world can use more teachers.
If you build a new house and have cold winters and hot summers . Find a reputable plaster contractor to finish your interior walls . Plaster walls have a higher concentration of aggregate , which means they hold temperature longer . they will always be considerably cooler in summer and warmer in winter . Plus , after initial application there is no dust . Period . There is no sanding .
@@StuccoPlastering Cheers to you ! People do not realize , that drywall was a temporary fix when many plastermen were called to war . Then after there were few teachers . I have also had people say to me that plaster cracks blah blah blah . Then I ask where they seen the cracked plaster , and it is always ALWAYS a run down building , abandoned house places that are not livable to begin with . The housewives loves the no dust finishing . " Keep shining those walls "
Watching you skim out the wall looks effortless with that trowel and makes me want to learn that technic. I skim a lot of drywall, always with knives and a pan. Good video Thx
Howdy Justin, thank you. Introducing peace, love, and harmony back into the world of plastering. The University of plastering by Kirk and Jason Giordano
Also, have you made a video discussing the application of tape to "stress lines"? I saw this in another video (plaster over wood paneling) and did not quite understand the methodology or reason for it. Thank you sir!
Hello bengvangarde, dude, I like your style. Technically your not supposed to plaster over wood paneling as when the wood moves the plaster cracks, but such is life. We tape the joints as if we didn't then these seams would hairline crack. have a happy new year! kirk Giordano Plastering
+Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips Thanks for the info! Can you tell me what to expect, if I apply a bonding agent, and a one coat veneer plaster - on regular drywall? Sorry for all the questions, but I think I will use this stuff a lot in the future. Gracias!
Hey dude, many experienced guys do just one coat, you have to go a bit thicker and if you over trowel it pulls the coat right off. This one coat system takes a bit of practice. Best wishes, Kirk giordano
'nother great tutorial Kirk, stories welcome too,gotta have some fun. So, being a artsy type painter I have fairly good hand skills with priming masonite/canvas which has to be smooth of course, course I'm priming with flake/lead white paint...which has a buttery consistency like the veneer plasters. At any rate my painted drywall parts of 90 year old home were done on the real cheap by a non-pro through previous owner (My fiance had bought home before we met:). What I want to do is just use the plaster weld and do a veneer finish then paint her up again or use roller for orange peel finish first...is that OK to do? I dislike the thought of having to lay in a base coat or sand anything I don't have to. Thanks in advance of any advice.
Hi Kirk, really enjoy your videos! You have convinced me to use veneer plaster in some investment proprties I have. Can you give me some advice on something? I will likely use this product on some interior walls in a few mobile homes. These walls are typically the cheap, faux wood paneling. I am really hoping that I can get away with applying a plaster to them to get a stronger wall, and cleaner look. Do you advise this? Also, what would be the result if used just plaster-weld and a one coat diamond veneer plaster? Thanks in advance and keep up the great videos!!
Hi bengvangarde, I would not advise diamond for mobile homes, usually the walls are very thin and at some time you may decide to move it? these veneer finishes are great for acting like an air conditions systems, as in absorbing moisture then releasing it when dryer conditions appear, however any movement such as a weak wall or any type of vibrations they will crack like an egg. If I were you know what I do I would choose a type of plastic myself. best wishes, Kirk giordano
Great info Kirk. Can you share with us how you keep regular steel trowels from rusting. Obviously I dry mine afterwards, but I still get rust on them. thx.
Howdy david, no such thing, I have a truck full of these rusty trowel, I even hit them with oil, but the cold night air and steel simple don't mix, You can keep them indoors, that will help. Best wishes with all your projects, Giordano’s teaching video’s
Hi Kirk, Inspired by you guys I've been determined to remove the painful slow drying and awful sanding dust of regular sheetrock taping from my job, wherever possible. I've put in a lot of practice with the diamond basecoat and veneer finishes, which are available to me. I built some walls in my basement, and went over and over them again and again until I felt comfortable with my technique enough to use it on a job. I took the plunge and two coat plastered a small room addition I built where I would have normally done my tape, wait, sand, choke, cleanup routine. Customers loved it, and I got a serious workout! So I have a question for you: When laying on my finish coat of the diamond, sometimes I will get a little bubble, or blister that lifts up in the coat as the trowel is passing over. I've tried all kinds of different techniques to eliminate these bubbles: changing trowel angle, thicker or thinner coat, more finesse, and less pressure on the trowel, everything I could think to experiment with. I have mostly succeeded in eliminating them, but still I get one here or there, and no amount of troweling or pressure at any stage during the set will take it out. Only poking a hole with the corner of the trowel to release the air, then going over will fix them. Do you have any tips, as the only pro I have to ask, for the finish application to avoid creating these bubbles/blisters entirely? or maybe there is a trick to knock them down that I dont know about? The learning process can be frustrating at times, when all I've got are a few videos, and the manufacturers information from the back of the bag. Thanks for all the awesome videos guys!
Good evening Mark Lewin Great tips, sometimes when we trowel down too soon prior to the setting of the base coat this will cause blistering or if a person decides to apply just the finish coat it can drag with excess troweling and loosen it which will also cause blistering. Thanks for the response, Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco channel
Morning mark, In the video's I do, I do both coats back to back, to avoid blisters, let the first coat set! Fully!, this way when you trowel down the finish coat the base coat can't lift, as it fully dried or cured. This is a sure way of not getting blisters! As far as the product sticking to everything you're right it does, many of the interior guys I know don't use a bonding agent as they tell me, "kirk, the veneers even stick to glass" however in video I take and advice all precautions. the base coat does have fine sand it it so even if you steel trowel if as flat as possible, when you rub your hand on it you can feel this silica sand. Best wishes, Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco videos
Thanks Andy, Mark, and Kirk for all the helpful tips! I think Kirks wisdom is going to be the ticket here, I'm going to try going over a completely bone dry basecoat instead of green (just set but still damp). I imagine the finish will set up faster though, as the base will wick out the moisture as soon as it is laid on. Also, I have been roughening the basecoat just slightly by brooming near its full set, but not a full on raking like a traditional basecoat of structolite or stucco would get. This is per USG's instructions, and in my tests the finish wouldn't grip quite as well over a smooth but not polished basecoat. It was easier to peel the coats apart, whereas when broomed slightly it would rip both layers and the sheetrock off together! Also without the bonding agent, just the basecoat over sheetrock paper could be delaminated with some picking! With bonder, it would rip out a big chunk of the wallboard with it. Again go Kirk! bonding agent is cheap insurance! His videos have drilled that into me. To Mark, I can offer up a few tips on mixing and finish troweling. I do have the "cage type" mixing paddle that USG asks for. It does produce a much better batch, without overworking the plaster, or introducing air. I was using a standard egg beater type paddle before which worked fine, but would tend to "whip" up the plaster making it fluffier, and stiffer from the mixer over working it. As for the drill, I've only been using a heavy duty mixing drill like kirk uses in his videos. I wouldn't attempt to mix up a full bag of this stuff without one of these drills, but with smaller batches I have used a standard drill. I was able to get the cage type paddle from Bon-Tool. As for the patchiness, I have experienced that, when either over troweling, troweling without a little water lubrication, troweling with too much water, etc.. When laying on the coat I try to make it as smooth as possible all in one go, and when it does come time to trowel, I try to use very gentile strokes, with little water, to bring it to that nice uniform grey look that is rock hard, but not over polished. The trowel can need a little water to lubricate, but too much will wet the finish coat leaving a weaker white area. Or if I miss a spot in the finish trowel, it will be smooth but not densified? I guess and will dry whiter. Its like it needs one nice pass to bring out that hard grey finish, but more passes will polish it up so its glassy and splotchy looking, and I think if it is that smooth, paint wont actually soak into it! I don't think the patchiness is caused by the mixing at all, its all in the troweling down technique. I thought the same as you did, but after getting the correct paddle, I still had to improve my troweling down skills anyway. The paddle did definitely produce a better batch in the ways I outlined above though. Thanks everyone! I will continue to post as I learn and experiment more with the process. Kirk keep the awesome videos coming! You rock!
Evening Joseph M, dude you have been busy, I have a big room coming up in 3 weeks I will try and show a bit more detail to the simple task of applying these veneer plasters, best wishes, and thanks for the bone. Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco instructional videos and forum
Morning Mark Lewin, it all takes practice. A cage paddle helps but we can use any paddle with good results. The wavy walls are from just taking your trowel from the bottom straight up, go sideways as well and this will fix the waves. Cleaning up buckets should be immediate, or just slam them against something solid at specific angles, even this slamming buckets take practice. I can usually clean them in a minute or two if I slam at the just right angle the plaster pops off, the more accumulation of resides in buckets the harder each time to remove existing plaster, Confused yet? These are just a few tips all come with practice, Best wishes, you're the man for doing it. Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco instructional videos and forum
Hi Kirk, been watching your videos for the last couple of months and really enjoy your down to earth way of explaining your trade. I have a question; I am a drywall guy that does tape and texture as well and was wondering if plaster veneer can be used like we do in taping without covering the whole wall. I'm wondering if using diamond veneer may cut down on the process that taping and topping have? thanks for any insight you may have...
Is using sheetrock/gypsum drywall what should be used when closing up the walls? Is it the most cost effective, or best for insulation for temperature and sound? Maybe I should use 1/4" gypsum, and use Imperial for floating things. The house already has some sheetrock and and a lot of it is cement plaster finished. Another question, which has taken me many videos to catch on to...When you say Imperial 1st coat with some sand, and Imperial finish coat...this is because YOU mix the batch yourself... You are not getting premixed..So the base of USG Imperial you use is the same, but on the finish coat you simply dont put sand in it...And Diamond is just FINER version of Imperial? Did I make sense and am I correct? Thank you!
Good evening Phil, whether you call the board sheetrock or drywall, both mean the same thing. USG makes both Imperial and Diamon veneer base coat and finishes coat plasters. Imperial is more durable, so it's called out more often for schools and or hospitals. I prefer the diamond finish as this finish coat as it has more lime in it, thus giving me the ability to move the fat around easier. To tell you the truth, I don't know whether I'm using imperial or diamond as both spread the same for me. If I didn't read the bags, I would have no clue as to which one I was spreading, but both are superior to gypsum products. FYI the base-coats both have sand, which gives it the strength. The finish coats have silica sand, which is like 30/30 or talcum powder. That's why it can be spread smoothly as glass. No one can spread a material as smooth as glass if there is sand in it, as one can only spread sand so smoothly. The most complete plastering encyclopedia in the world on video, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Over 850 free self-help videos 🎭 👀💃 Subscribers, you can depend on us to explain with truth, honor, experience, and skill for your time invested for wishing to learn the hows and whys of plastering.😉
Hello Kirk, I enjoy your videos and have been watching for many years. Can you tell me if you still recommend two coat skim finish (base and finish coat) if going over drywall painted walls like in video above? Older video but just wanted to see if you have changed anything here. Thanks
Hi Kirk, I always thought that you had to trowel on a tight coat of Finish over a set Imperial or Diamond base coat and then using the same batch of finish, trowel on a leveling second coat of finish. And then wait until that starts to set then use water either in a spray bottle or mop (brush) and hard trowel the second coat until it sets filling in any cat faces and scratches along the way of the setting plaster.
Hi Robert Bressem, correctamundo, but this is a small patch and it's going to painted to match the original walls, the other walls were of a drywall compound, my work with the veneer was for example. I could have use about ten different finishes to patch this same small area. best wishes and thanks for watching. kirk giordano plastering
I've replaced the drywall in my living room with 5/8 fire code X panels with the plan of using Weld Crete interior bonding agent under an Imperial base coat and Diamond finish. This is a solo project and I know I won't be able to complete more than one wall at a time with potentially a day or 2 before I move on to the next wall adjoining wall. Will this cause a problem where the right angles meet? Thank you for your videos. I recently replaced a retro fit window with a new build needing stucco knocked out and replaced. The final permit inspector said it was quality work and wouldn't have known it was my 1st go at it. I have your videos to thank! Cheers!
Evening JF, you appear to be on the right track, so much in fact, soon you will be the teacher, and I'll be retired on a beach somewhere watching ladies walk by, wearing something close to nothing. Bringing peace, love, and harmony back to the world of plastering. The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam.
Have you used unikal venner plaster...we use that in santa barbara ..plus the trowels we use the square trowels with the short handle that way the trowel doesnt mark.. glad watching videos from another point of view or company...keep it up
Good Morning Daniel dude, I have used Unikal Veneer, the fact is I can't tell only a slight difference between all ten commonly sold veneer plasters that I've used over the years and yes I have tried them all, until next year when another cement company make a new veneer with a duiifernt name using the same ingreadiats. Live long and plaster Mastering Plastering by Kirk and Jason Giordano
Hey Kirk, I'm researching the USG Diamond and Imperial finishes for a client of mine in a large custom home. In your experience are these finishes typically painted in all cases? Or can they be applied with a color and be the finished wall surface without paint? This is a completely new construction setting. We are also considering Venetian Plaster to achieve more color modulation and depth. Thoughts? I poked around and watched several of your videos, great channel and thanks for all you do.
Hi Chad, yes, you can add colors, but the colors rarely come out as someone expects, therefore I tell folks to paint and don't suggest there is an option for coloring anymore. cheers, kirk giordano rendering
Kirk, Thanks for your response. I think we'll be headed to the venetian plaster route then for sure. We are also looking to subtly change color from room to room possibly, so that will give us the ability to do so with predictability! Thanks again, Chad
Thank you for your videos. I am giving the home my husband and I built in our youth to my daughter and want to help her with some updates. The kitchen had a plaster veneer over Sheetrock on the ceiling and it has a rather large fluorescent fixture we would like to do away with. We will need to Sheetrock where it was and hopefully plaster it so it can’t be seen. It is a very thick sand finish and is very heavy texture. My question is should I chip back some of the plaster and use fiberglass tape over joints before trying to plaster it again or do you have any tips for us. The man who originally did the job was a retired plaster and an artist and I know we will not find someone like him again. He actually made us a hand plastered crown molding in the living room and repaired ornate plasterwork at a local theater. Thanks for any help.
Good evening Barbara, a fiberglass mesh tape is necessary when starting a plaster repair where all the sheetrock meets. However, when doing patchwork, it can be problematic as the fiberglass tends to show unless an excess of mud is applied to cover it. The seams can be seen. I'd advise you to apply a bonding agent then use a basecoat of just the veneer as it has sand in it to hide the patch. The most complete plastering encyclopedia in the world on video, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Over 850 free self-help videos 🎭 👀💃 Subscribers, you can depend on us to explain with truth, honor, experience, and skill for your time invested for wishing to learn the hows and whys of plastering.😉
Thanks for sharing all of your hard earned knowledge Kirk! Love watching your videos. I was hoping you could help me? An inexperienced plasterer did a job for a friend and used gauging plaster “solely” over CMU’s on an interior basement. It’s a mess. It does seem to have bonded. My plan is to use a bonding agent to slow the suction and ensure it bonds then apply a layer of Diamond base coat and a layer of Diamond Veneer. It will be my first foray with plaster but I do have experience with Portland based Stucco. Thank you for any guidance you may have!
Howdy Dan sounds like the guy only had a clue as to what he was doing. Clean the wall thoroughly, apply your basecoat then when set applies a top coat. It sounds to me the first guy didn't wet the wall adequately to create a natural mechanical bond. That means wet the wall with a garden hose not dripping wet but just wet enough for both porous surfaces to bond. If the wall is painted a bonding ajent must be applied to the wall never in the mix. best wishes, Sound advice for plastering issues from your favorite stucco geek
Kirk, long time fan. Love all your videos and enthusiasm towards work and life. I have a question that I'm sure you've encountered. I had a leak in a bathroom ceiling corner. Took care of the exterior leak. Patched the corner with drywall. I had to steam and peel some wallpaper around the patch. Kirk, I know you're not a wallpaper or drywall guy, but you seem to have all the answers. The plan is to re-wallpaper over the existing wallpaper. The problem is, the left over wallpaper glue and wallpaper fragments around the patch. Kirk, can I skim over these wallpaper residues without having to remove all of them? I've heard conflicting answers on different forums.
Morning Joshua Hogg, If I were you I would simply spray some soapy water or hit the areas with a damp rag, let sit just like cleaning a pan with baked on crust you allow time and soaking to do the work for you. Then after the water has set on the paper for about 20 to 30 minutes it will loosen the glue, you then simply use a putty knife to scrape of the residue, use skill rather than strength. I have done this about 20 times so I know how to remove that nasty paper. Beside your new paper is only as good as what you apply it over, compromised basecoat, failure in new paper in time. best wishes, Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco instructional videos and forum
Thanks for your response. In the bathroom, above the tub, part of the ceiling fell down. The ceiling is popcorn textured and after cleaning and removing all the loose pieces, squaring it off, etc, there is wood lath. Just like the small ceiling hole or Victorian home ceiling that you did. Someone suggested using green board to fill in the hole, what do you suggest.
Good Evening Ann, good question, you can attach sheetrock if you wish or skim coat the cedar wood lath, If it were me I skim coat the cedar wood lath. Live long and plaster Mastering Plastering by Kirk and Jason Giordano
Hey Kirk, great video. I have a question. I want to plaster over a heavy knockdown mud job with a lot of uneven new sheetrock patches in an old house. Should I float the walls with a new coat of mud to even out the surface before plastering, or is it better just to plaster with a thicker buildup to hide the old texture/uneven areas?
Howdy Brett, the comment means I don't know, I'm an applicator, not an engineer. In other words I can care less about the specifics of manufacturing I know what works, sort of like I don't wish to understand electricity, I just want to flick a switch and have a light go on or off, there's too much useless information out there. Cheers, live long and plaster Giordano’s plastering tips
Kirk I have this video and use it for reference. ? Can I use veneer plaster over existing painted walls and ceilings. What are applications to prep. Some dude said I need to apply roll mesh and adhesive for bonding. Any input much appreciated my man. Merry Xmas
He's close but no cookie, roll or paint on a bonding agent such as what I did here, We used a bonding agent called Plaster-Weld found at any plastering yard.
I have a house built in 1888 where the previous owner drywalled over plaster, I'm on my first room removing it. It's over very fine, very smooth white plaster as the finish coat (it was wallpapered so I stripped it to the bare plaster) and I'm working on restoring it. Is veneer plaster the right finish for me? Do you have thoughts on other peoples suggestion of mixing veneer plaster and joint compound 50/50 to avoid using bonding agents? Should I be using plain joint compound anywhere? I have tons of screw holes to patch from the drywall and the plaster magic repair, along with some cracks to fill and large chunks patched with drywall to be finished over. I'm going to be replicating this process throughout my house so I'd truly appreciate any thoughts!
Evening Munch, I'd recommend what we are doing in this video, USG makes both Imperial and Diamon veneer base coat and finishes coat plasters. Imperial is more durable, so it's called out more often for schools and or hospitals. I prefer the diamond finish as this finish coat as it has more lime in it, thus giving me the ability to move the fat around easier. FYI, the bond agent quikrete at HD is less than 10 dollars. Bringing to all the most complete plastering encyclopedia ever created in the world online. By the plastering messengers of TH-cam. With well over 850 free self-help videos 🎭 👀💃 Kirk and Jason Giordano Plastering
@@StuccoPlastering Thanks for the reply. I noticed you tend to answer a lot of questions for people even on these old videos. I just want you to know that it's deeply appreciated!!
hi kirk im an irish plasterer working in canada using the diamond coat im having issues with cracking in some jobs im using the same plaster weld as you on standard drywall and im base coating the wall like you.do you mix the base coat pure or do you mix it with the diamond coat aswell.i cant seem to find the right mixture of my base as its leading to cracks which i do not like thanks in advance
Hi gavin meehan, good question. It is not always application and or the mix, sometimes a house will vibrate, move, shift and simply settle. if the floors are loose or the windows and doors slammed this will create cracks too, big old window or doors? solid and heavy wood doors? Old fashioned windows with the lead weights as interior pulley systems? Thin walls with weak foundations, lifting and setting especially with rain? Has this only happened on this one job? walk around the exterior perimeter if it's stucco look at the foundation, stucco walls concrete slabs, walkways, if these have lots of cracks weather structral or hairline you may be experiencing natural ground movements. Anyone who feels a 1/8 inch interior veneer system will stop a hundred ton home from shifting is not informed on all possible effects. However since you ask, clean buckets and drill paddle, don't overmix, mix only what you can use at that time, make certain the sheetrock is screwed in well, fiber mesh tape is installed at all joints, apply your base coat over a bonding agent of some type, Base coats have fine sand in them for a bit more strength, how much strength can 1/8 be? Not much, certainly won't stop a home from moving, not even ten solid inch can accomplish this. Trying to keep it real, before we beat ourselves up with ill thought of incompetence. O.k. back to where I left off, you allow your base coat to fully dry, now apply your finish coat, wet your base coat a bit as necessary trowel as little as possible, allow to set, then wet and finish, don't over trowel as this can loosen and pull the finish coat off the base coat, really does take a bit of practice, best wishes my fellow plasterer and have a groovy new year! Kirk giordano plastering
Kirk, I never thought of using plaster weld on regular sheet rock and applying a veneer plaster.because I always thought I had to use blue board, which by the way, is in not easily found in my area.
I have been watching your videos and listening intently to your descriptions about materials and technique. I have been rehabbing an old home with plaster walls and stucco exterior. I have been using the Diamond veneer base and finish coats inside and each time I have worked with the finish veneer it is a struggle to apply and have a smooth finish. It seems to dry as soon as the trowel touches it and starts to scumble across as well as start cracking. I watch all you pros with a smooth application and able to work over it multiple times but my experience has zero tolerance. Obviously its super frustrating. What is happening here? Thanks
I have a older home in PA that was built in the 1900 I am restoring it to its original beauty as much as I can. Tell me this some areas there is a mixed drywall and plaster and lath together. So if I understand correctly . I need put the glue down first then base coat over that then I put the veneer. or can I skip the base-coat and go straight to veneer?
When it was built no doubt the used a base coat of stucco-lite then finished with lime plaster. You can use a lime basecoat and then finish with a lime finish. In our area they sell Diamond or Imperial base and finish coats usually, both are produced by USG. The best place to purchase is, "Weside Building Supplies" which is a plastering yard.
Hello Kirk, I just plastered one wall and will do 3 more, thanks for all your videos. One question, how do you clean off any plaster that missed the drop sheet and hit the floor and set, same questions for cleaning off tools? Is there a good cleaner out there that cleans off residue plaster? Thanks!
Good Morning Al my fellow plasterer, as a rule I clean my trowel regularly with a green sponge float so the residues won't build up, if it get on the floor or wall, I wipe it off asap, as some floors can stain if it new wood not yet treated with any sort of varnish, if you must clean a new floor or redwood deck, often sandpaper is the only way to get stucco or plaster staining out. Live long and plaster Mastering Plastering by team Giordano
So the first coat veneer would be considered a base coat? I bought finish plaster to build an 1/8" over top of drywall to meet the height of the original plaster. Do I have to go buy veneer before I lay the finish coat?
Evening Ashroyer, you can use the finish coat for the base and the finish. I have skimmed entire walls with just the finish coat, myself. If you do this allow time for the first coat to set, or you will get bubbling or separation or even cracks and flaking off. Why, excellent question, glad you asked. If the first, say, finish coat is not completely dry the force of your next coat will stick to the unsecured or set first coat then lift the first one from the wall, and then shit happens. 🍻 welcoming, peace, love, and brotherhood, back into the 🌎 of Plastering. Bringing you the most comprehensive encyclopedia of free plastering video’s ever put together, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Kirk and Jason Giordano with over 800 videos 🎭 👀💃
Good evening, my friend, a LIme basecoat has sand in it. Do you absolutely need a basecoat? No, however, those not familiar with lime plasters might find it beneficial. Can I apply one coat of finish plaster at 1/16 to one inch? You betcha. But I have lots of time in. To apply a coat of lime finish plaster say one with, is easy, but the martial has many do's and dont's. Way too much to write down here.🤔 Our unique plastering Tip: all subscribers or anyone who stumbles on our channel with a question, type it into our Stucco/Plastering channel, and like magic, a video will appear to explain how it's done. This feature is miles ahead of any plastering forum. 🥳 www.stuccoPlastering.com
Good question, "Sika is engineered to be used instead of or water to make the tile grout have better adhesion." it's not for stucco. You can use Quikrete bonding agent, sold at all home depots and lowes and almost all smaller hardware stores.🍻
I need to apply new topcoat over a cracked plaster/lathe ceiling. I'll first remove any loose topcoat chips, which will expose the brown coat. Can I primer the brown coat with a Zinnsler BIN primer? Then apply a veneer 2 coat system? There has been some water damage from the ceiling in the past, so I want something more water resilient.
Howdy John, you will need to apply a bonding agent for the plaster to adhere. It's up to you if you wish to prime it first then apply a bonding agent, I wouldn't Cheers, live long and plaster Giordano’s images and teaching video’s
kirk ,great videos , I have an 1860 house that has a crow's foot stucco finish on the walls. Can I use veneer plaster to smooth the walls out. I plan on applying the bonding agent then smooth plaster. I was worried about cracking. Will this work?
Ben Doetch I think you can go 20 minute mud right over it with no bonding agent. I’ve done it over plywood with drywall next to it, very uneven surface and it worked, I got a plumb wall with 20 minute mud
Evening Ben, of course it will work, you can also apply 20-minute mud to the area. Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of, “Cement Plastering.” 🌍 With over 800 educational and free TH-cam videos, by your favorite plaster geek, “me🤓” and my son, “Jason,” the bearded plasterer.💃
Nice work. Hope your spreading the word. Tape and joint is a waste of time. Ps your right the Irish are Brilliant trowels, but they learnt of us Brits. London home of the TRUE plasterers. Ps you guys up and around the North east if the USA are pretty darn good too.
Evening Jimjim Skimmer, thank you, theres little glory in being the best, plus folks expecting more work from you. I have worked with every nationality on the planet and witness first hand anyone who loves this trade is usually really good, guys half my weight sometimes run circles around me as they love what they do. Best wishes in Britain. Kirk and Jason Giordano DIY plastering tips
Hey Kirk, I am thinking about plastering over some regular drywall to hide some flaws. After a bonding agent, can I just do a basecoat only if I want the sand texture or should I still do a veneer coat with sand additive? Also is it feasible to tint the basecoat if I can leave it as the only coat. Thank you
Hi Spencer, simply mix more and go over the holidays or flaws, use diamond for this as it has no sand, you can also use taping mud. cheers, kirk giordano rendering
Kirk, thank you for the videos, great advise for brave DIYers to jump into the unknown. I have three questions. If I finish the ceiling on day one and walls on day two, what should I do about the corners so as not to crack? If I am working on a very large ceiling, can I leave a raw edge and restart that the next day? Any special treatments for that? Lastly, I did a bathroom and the Diamond Veneer set faster than I could work it down to smooth. Can I go back over that with a second coat of Diamond Veneer (with retarder) to make that smooth as glass on a second attempt?
Evening Robert Barnard, yes, you can apply a base coat and finish coat on separate days, weeks apart if you want. Corner are no differently than walls I use a metal corner bead myself. If your finish coat has imperfections, you can correct theses holiday's with another complete coat or just do touchup on the areas that your not happy with, you can even use taping mud on any imperfections. cheers, Kirk giordano Plastering
Kirk, Thanks for the response. I have read and seen where it is recommended to wet the base coat with an Alum solution if it drys or sets before you apply the topcoat (Diamond Veneer). Should I do the same when going back over to repair holidays or a complete recoat to correct a bad first attempt on that first topcoat?
Howdy, I usually wet my base coats down too especially if it's a big or huge wall, with small patches I don't need to wet them as I'm done in minutes, I just use water to wet or mist the base coats myself. Cheers, Kirk giordano
I use 20 minute compound, I would be finished with that little section in 1 hour and ready for paint. As far as the sanding, it depends on your experience. All I need is a wipe down with screen.
cool beans daddieo, the problem is they did want gypsum applied or I too can do it in the same amount of time they knew their materials and chose limestone which is water resistance and 50 times stronger than gypsum that is called among other thing drywall compounds. Cheers, Kirk Giordano
Howdy Spencer, absolutely, or you can spread 3 coats of tapping mud over every square inch, but sanding is required for the taping mud usually. BTW, this veneer application take years of hands on applications to learn to apply. cheers, kirk giordano rendering
Good evening my friend, thank you. Our unique plastering Tip: all subscribers or anyone who stumbles on our channel with a question, type it into our Stucco/Plastering channel, and like magic, a video will appear to explain how it's done. This feature is miles ahead of any plastering forum. 🥳 Kirk & Jason Giordano Plastering
Joseph hi I'm Andy I'm a plaster from Ireland we use this stuff a lot we call it hardwall anyhow what your saying about the bubbles in your finish we call that blistering it happens when you use to much water when your materiel has not set enough yet try dry troweling your walls or else wait for the walls to set for longer period of time between trowels ok buddy
Evening Andy Nolan from Ireland, everyone realizes the real plasters are from Ireland, been there see you guys at work. Yes we call it blistering here too, did I actually say bubbles? opps. It's tougher than it looks to explain while working, thanks for the tips. Kirk & Jason Giordano's DIY plastering network
hello... iv been taping for 14 years and i'm using diamond veneer at work. I'm no sure whats going wrong, after mixing when i go to trowel it on the wall its incredibly had to spread or work with and it seems to set up instantly... any tip will be great full... thanks
haseebhaniff hey dude, easy question, when you mix diamond or any of the other gypsum based compounds, the drill, drill paddle and the bucket must be very clean or you accelerate the mix, for example say you have about 30 to 40 minutes for the diamond to set, with dirty mixing tools or buckets you contaminate the material where it will now set in 15 minutes or less. You know of course taping mud dose not do this when mixed with dirty tools. Best wishes, kirk Giordano plastering
@@timalan7406 a dirty bucket or paddle will accelerate if faster than the typical 40 minutes. Lime plaster is kinda like liquid rock, when it drys it returns to limestone which can’t be sanded, try joint compound next time around they sell in 20, 40, 60 minute set times and these can be sanded. Cheers
Kirk, I am wanting to do a two layer grassello Venetian plaster finish on some interior drywall walls, but they are painted a few times over the years with eggshell paint. What would you recommend as a base coat? A bonding agent, and then a plaster basecoat? Would DIAMOND Veneer Basecoat Plaster be a good choice? Thanks!
Evening Matt, I'd apply a bonding agent then cover no matter how thick with either Imperial or Diamond veneer basecoat, both are made by the same company. USG. 🍻 Unlike what folks say, I have applied both of these basecoats an inch or more depending on what I'm trying to achieve. Welcoming, peace, love, and brotherhood, back into the 🌎 of Plastering. Bringing you the most comprehensive encyclopedia of free plastering video’s ever put together, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Kirk and Jason Giordano with over 800 videos 🎭 👀💃
My walls are 1/2 inch drywall 1/2 plaster veneer. Any recommendation on plaster. I was going to use plaster of Paris. I usually use 20 min lite joint compound. On drywall never done plaster veneer.
Greetings the product I'm using in this video is made by USG, they make an imperial and diamond veneer plaster that I would recommend for all kitchens and bathrooms. If you can spread one material you can spread them all, it's the material knowledge that is learned. Cheers, Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
Nice job. I'd like to add a veneer plaster over existing plaster in my shower. It's got a sealer on it with some cracking and uneven areas that need to be built up maybe an inch. What products would you recommend I use?
Hi don davis, I have no preference to the veneer base coat and a finish coat. I feel they are too similar applying for me to tell the difference which one I'm applying weather it's Diamond, Imperial, Kal Kote, Gypsum, Red Top or any of the other Veneer plaster I do recommend that whichever veneer system base coat you use that you use thiers finish coat. Also, you can apply just a finish coat, you simply apply back to back coats, total thickness from 1/8 to 3/16. I prefer the base coat and finish coat myself. I use mainly Imperial or Diamond as my material yard sells only these. Cheers. kirk Giordano plastering
Can StrutoLite Base Coat be used the same as Imperial Base Coat? Only asking because I live in a lunar crater and that is what is available. I can make this customer wait if it's not the same or similar
Howdy Ts, texturing hides flaws. This is why most homes have textures. Smooth finishes take a bit more effort, but well worth the extra time. Introducing peace, love, and harmony back into the world of plastering. The University of plastering by Kirk and Jason Giordano
If you are using diamond finish to simply skim a painted wall for more uniform appearance, can you skip the base coat? Just plaster weld over the paint and straight to diamond finish ?
Yes, this can also be done but takes more practice as the finish would have to be set, and the applicator would have to know when to trowel it or the finish will bubble then loosen and peel off.
Thank you so much for the video. I am running into an issue where there are a few products that look the same and I am not sure of what to buy so can you please list the bonding agent, and the 2 veneer products to use as I am finding IMPERIAL Brand 50.5-lb Bag Foundation Plaster and I am not sure if this is the base? and I see USG diamond Sanded Veneer Finish and ISG diamond Veneer Finish that does not say sanded. I am so confused
Evening Gail, no worries, Imperial and Diamond are both made by the same company, USG. Both base coats both have sand in them for extra strength. The finish coats can have sand if someone wants to apply a sand finish. Or the finish coat could have the tiniest sand such as silica or 30/30 for really smooth finishes, any bond agent will work, I prefer Weld Crete but Quikcrette works too. Welcoming, peace, love, and brotherhood, back into the 🌎 of Plastering. Bringing you the most comprehensive encyclopedia of free plastering video’s ever put together, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam. Kirk and Jason Giordano with over 800 videos 🎭 👀💃
Than you for your answer....but when I mix it take only 3 minutes maxim and dry faster, or last 7 minutes, but I sow your video and it take longer . Thank you
Evening Ramon, fair enough, FYI, if you mix this mud in a dirty bucket and or paddle, this will accelerate the mud. Plus it also depends on the shelf life of the plaster. Like explosive bombs, even they have a shelf life. Or take myself for another example, my times almost expired, then you will have to show the folks how to do it, but it will probably take a few more months before that time comes. Cheers, peace & harmony Sound Plastering tips from your favorite stucco geeks
Hmmm. I used blue board and plaster in my house. So you use an extra prep coat to put plaster over sheetrock it appears. With blue board it's one coat, no sanding, simple.
Kirk does can imperial out diamond plaster need to be used over blue board only or can this be applied over drywall? My understanding is plaster is for blue board or lath and plaster and drywall is for joint compound. School mer sir, school me.
Hey Gaurdduck Dude, excellent question, you can apply over any type of skin on the sheetrock or drywall, you need a bonding agent rolled over the board or painted onto that board, Quikrete sell for about ten bucks at HD, I use Larsons, "plaster weld." sold at most plastering yards.
'What does that mean?'...'Hell I don't know, I'm an applicator not an engineer, but it's pretty strong stuff...' LOL!!
Evening Adam, just another day at the office.
Welcoming, peace, love, and brotherhood, back into the 🌎 of Plastering.
Bringing you the most comprehensive encyclopedia of free plastering video’s ever put together,
by the plastering messengers of TH-cam.
Kirk and Jason Giordano with over 800 videos 🎭 👀💃
I am not in the business, but the way you present your work makes this very enjoyable to watch. You obviously are a true craftsman-a dying breed. Tough to find good contractors now-a-days. You should have your own show. Best to you, sir. - Jim
James Wagner Howdy James, that comment made you my newest and bestest pal, we should have our own show.
Also, if I do anything incorrect I am now responsible to redo it at my cost and my own time.
Been there done that, hopefully that stage stays in the long ago forgotten past.
Thanks for watching and have a great day
Kirk and Jason giordano’s plastering team
@@StuccoPlastering .......1 friend🤣 .......will you sleep together now❓️🌹
@@pennthorr Don't you worry none, you're still my girl.
Boys, he is making applying this look easy. His troweling is second to none.
I'm a plasterer from Ireland living in California
About 15 years with my small crew. Happiest times in my life carrier wise. Plastered thousands of homes, never use a sandpaper. Had 100% customers satisfaction.
I'm glad to see Kirk's videos. Wish there were more people know about this way of plastering. I've done a few projects here in LA and the clients were stunned by the quality and efficiency.
Thanks Kirk for your time and effort for presentation of your finest skill
Hi Paddy, thank you, hopefully folks will get the message,
It's tough for folks to change.
Best wishes and have a Fantastic day! Kirk Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
This may seem obsessive, but I seem to be watching this video like it is a song. It’s so important. Thank you Kirk and Jay. Keeping America Great
Evening Mike, I like your style, best wishes,
Bringing peace, love, and brotherhood back to the world of, “Cement Plastering.” 🌍
With over 800 educational and free TH-cam videos, by your favorite plaster geek, “me🤓” and my son, “Jason,” the bearded plasterer.💃
Nice to see someone promoting the use of REAL plaster. Can't stand mudding compound myself. Keep up the good work!
Evening fak892, thank you, veneers are the way to go.
harder water resistant and stronger.
I feel anyone who can apply mud can apply this veneer plaster.
Best wishes and have a Fantastic New Year!
Kirk Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
Yup, you got it. Most people think compound is cheaper (which it may be in the short term) but when you factor in all the repairing of dings because it's so soft, it probably ends up being more expensive. Most people don't realize that compound is just limestone dust mixed with white glue and water. Complete crap IMO.
My home is 3 coat veneer plaster over gypsum lath. Walls are hard as rock. Never have to repair dings or dents. Ever. I sincerely hope the trades move back to veneer plaster.
Evening fak892, you must be a plasterer,
Cheers and have a Happy New Years,
Kirk Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
No, not a plasterer. Just an enthusiast who can appreciate quality.
Hey fak892 dude, I like your style,
cheer,
kirk giordano
Hi Kirk, just say a big thanks from Portugal, you training this community around the world sharing your expertise. thanks again Mario J
Morning mario jorge, thank you,
I'm one in many sharing the most Popular plastering, stucco, and application of applying Render, (Render is Europe's terminology for applying plaster) videos.
To help folks understand how to and why.
Best wishes to my friends in Portugal, where my father was also from.
kirk giordano
All... The conversation on this video is priceless. Thanks to you guys.
Hi Black Swan, thats just me rambling since we had to turn the radio off,
glad you found some useful tips,
Cheers, and have a Fantastic day! Kirk Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips hi. Sorry, I was reading the comments section when I wrote this. Yours in the video were good, but this comment thread was over the top valuable. Thanks to all who participated!
I'm just a 45 yr old handyman and most of my work that iI love is finish work. Meaning that I come in and make the home look nice. I don't have much experience at all in plaster and stucco. I'm comin around though. Very helpful for me, I'm a hands on guy and love my work. Thanks for so much help.
Evening Richard dude, no worries, it's me yob.
You fella have to carry the touch when old kirk kicks the bucket.
cheers,
kirk giordano plastering
Again Kirk,thank you very much for sharing your expertise. You are a great craftsman and an excellent teacher !
Good Evening Fred, thank you,
Cheers and now kick back relax and enjoy the Superbowl.
FYI, all of us here at the giordano plastering channel we wish to thank all our subscribers and those of you who accidentally stumble on our channel a happy and prosperous new year
kirk giordano plastering
Thanks kirk and jay keep up the great work love your videos lads you truly are a master at what you do best wishes to you and family
Hello Andy, thank you,
Kirk & Jason Giordano's DIY plastering channel
Awesome video by the way. You've answered many of my questions in this great video.
Kirk: I can tell you love what you do.
Hi Spencer, I do it's an honest living,
cheers,
kirk giordano rendering
Hey Kirk very good job i also do your job here in my country germany i like this so much this is not only a job this is passion right ,really great videos
hello Gunther Thomas from Germany, thank you, my mom was French and spoke german and 3 other languages, but English was difficult for her.
I too love to apply plaster and stucco,
keeps me in shape plus pays for quality food.
Cheers!
Kirk Giordano Plastering
you're fun to watch and listen to! great job. THank you!
benzinc Evening Benzinc,
thank you my friend and best wishes,
kirk Giordano plastering
that's just crazy! i have been finishing drywall now for almost 40 yrs i was7 or 8 when dad started taking me out and i loved the environment but hell back then there was no video games or much to do period. well about 10 yrs. back i got into stucco ad just dominated people on matching patterns and now here in north eastern Fl. i'm the man to call . but i have to say i'm definitely going to give this plaster a shot i can see already how drywall mud just don't compare in any way.
Good afternoon Bryon, cool crossbow my fellow plasterer or mudder.
You already have the talent as an applicator, learning the veneer plasters do's and don't wont be so difficult.
Live long and plaster
teaching repairing your number 1 investment, your home
Another great video. And boy,does the plaster make sense over that taping mud and all the insidious dust it causes. Thank you for sharing your expertise. Your the best !
Howdy Fred, thank you
Live long and plaster,
Sharing stucco secrets, or common sense tips
This is a great channel!
@@bmeerfeld Thank you. 😉
Another good one, Kirk......I'm a plastering,restoration guy...since 1966.....Do you ever read these comments?
I also like to use Imperial Base with Diamond over it, like in one of your vids....Your trowel use is seemingly effortless. So wonderful to see. I'm doing a bedroom tomorrow in an 1810 farmhouse..the walls and ceiling have been re-keyed,repaired and fastened...and coated with bonder, one coat of Imperial base. I darby-ed it prior to set somewhat...Now I have a lot of suction to deal with while applying white coat.....
Hi Robert G, yes, I do read the comments, if it were me I would have a spray bottle or hudson sprayer to mist the walls so that you finish coat does not set to fast, especially if you have big walls,
Best wishes,
Kirk giordano Plastering
Really good video. Good filming. Good angles. Good audio. Thank you.
Good evening my friend, thank you.
Our unique plastering Tip: all subscribers or anyone who stumbles on our channel with a question, type it into our Stucco/Plastering channel, and like magic, a video will appear to explain how it's done.
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Kirk & Jason Giordano Plastering
Good instructional video. I am going to do this inside my 1950’s home. Starting in a closet. He makes it look so damned easy but I know I will struggle at first. Let’s hope the closet doesn’t have too many errors.
Good morning Susan, A closet is an excellent place to start; the corners may be difficult at first but remember, it's just a closet.😏
coolest dude on the planet
Greetings Andrew, Man, I sho-nuff like your style.
Our unique plastering Tip: all subscribers or anyone who stumbles on our channel with a question, type it into our Stucco/Plastering channel, and like magic, a video will appear to explain how it's done.
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Kirk & Jason Giordano Plastering
Kirk, I love your videos. You're a true master. I'm remodeling my house and want to plaster over a painted wall (1/2" drywall) which has orange peel texture and latex paint. I want the wall to look like dark concrete / cement wall panels that are 4 x 8 vertical as if it was a formed solid concrete wall. I'm unsure how to prep the wall and if I should attach some sort of metal screen (like thin expanded metal sheet) or a fiber mesh. I would assume I'd also want to roll on some sort of primer or bonding agent over the latex first too. Regardless, I just want this to be solid and not crack. It is of course "faux" and decorative in it's nature, but I want it to look like the real deal, complete with a troweled vertical seam every 4ft. I've also seen a video of a plasterer / faux finish guy that pressed clear acrylic against the wet plaster, removing it the next day so this creates some voids and air pockets to create the releif/embossed effect that you get with real formed concrete. Any help or advice here would be greatly appreciated.
@@oldowl4290 Think of lime plaster as liquid rock, it’s actually lime putty when applied it resorts back to rock, lime rock. Now go to a cement yard and buy some black pigmented color, I believe it’s called “Lamp-Black” add it to your lime plaster. Now you add fancy troweling to meet your goals. Fastest and easiest way to achieve what you’re after. I wouldn’t try and reinvent the wheel.😉
Is there any kind of bonding agent that is needed to add over finished Painted drywall?
really cool and interesting videos Kirk
howdy PJGD, thank you.
Best wishes and have a happy and prosperous new year my friend.
kirk giordano plastering
As a seasoned drywall finisher, who considers himself to be pretty damn good with a trowel, I think this system is a pretty awesome. Few questions for you if you don't mind:
- Is the plaster going to stop screws from being able to "pop through" the plaster? (wood shrinkage being the main culprit here)
- If I had a butt joint, with an 1/8' gap between sheets, would you pre fill this first, or mesh and fill over it? I see room for movement there, and wonder if the plaster can hold it all in place? (when the house settles)
I think that you can get a much more consistent finish, (with guys who are good with a hawk&trowel ) this way compared to conventional taping.
I have a hard time with trusting mesh tape in professional applications. How about your corner angles? Mesh tape too? Do you use cornerbead on outside corners and inside 45's?
Thanks for opening my eyes.
Hi Jeff, If you can apply taping mud you can apply this material as it's actually easiers.
The base coat is so strong nails heads won't pop through at least I have never had this issue.
I use fiberglass mesh tape on all my inner and board to board seams, and yes we use corner beads for strength and easy plastering.
Once you apply these finish your sanding days will be over with taping mud.
Cheers! kirk giordano
Hello Mr. Giordano!
Thank you for all your videos. I've been trying to watch your techniques to apply to a project I am working on. We have standard drywall throughout our house with at least the most recent coat of paint being latex. Additionally, we have popcorn ceilings. I'm working on the first room now and I've stripped down the popcorn, sanded the ceiling (Drywall Sander w Vacuum attachment), retaped the ceiling, then sanded the ceiling and the walls (the walls with a stronger grit to create additional surface area and perhaps some mechanical advantage). My plan had been to personally skim coat the ceiling and walls with drywall joint compound and then finish it with a drywall topping compound. Watching your videos, I'm considering - either myself or through a professional - using a plaster veneer 2 coat system like you've shown. My hope is to get as close as I can to a completely smooth surface.
I am wondering what the advantages or disadvantages would be between (1) keeping my current drywall (and using plasterweld) and (2) switching my current drywall out for blueboard and using plasterweld on it. I've read that plaster on standard drywall tends not to spread and gets moved around more than it does on blueboard. I am also wondering if, perhaps, blueboard is less flexible and would resist cracking in the plaster over time better than standard drywall. I am also wondering whether, if I replaced the drywall, I should replace it with thicker drywall (on a theory that, perhaps, it will be more rigid). Could you tell me your thoughts on these various issues? Could you tell me whether keeping the current drywall would cause problems for application of veneer and/or the longevity and durability thereof?
Best Regards,
Jeremy
Good evening Jeremy dude, even if I had cash to burn, I'd still leave the sheetrok, paint it with Plaster weld bonding agent then apply this same veneer system, if done properly it will outlast both of us and then some.
Live long and plaster
Sharing the plastering knowledge
Been taping for 20 years the formula i use is dura-bond first coat and rapid coat finish coat of course there is still some sanding but i use a shop light when sanding an it makes for a near flawless finish.
Hello wes hatch, good tip, there are at least 20 different ways to go about what I am showing here.
Best wishes,
Kirk Giordano Plastering
Well done Kirk, that's how its done! Bring the British/Irish method back to the good old USA
Good evening James. LOL, as what you suggest is the absolute truth.😉
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Kirk, you're a true master of you're trade! I've watched all of your videos on interior plastering. Bless you for creating such a comprehensive video encyclopedia of plastering.
I have to repair holes from a recent repipe of my house. My walls are plaster veneer over gauge plaster over rock (gypsum) lath (1953 construction). No one in the Tucson area repairs these walls so I have to do it myself. In your videos you repair with plaster base coat/plaster veneer, OR with 20 minute mud. I'll be using drywall with a bonding agent as the substrate (cannot find blue board). All but one of the walls has orange peel "texture", and the outlier has spanish knockdown.
My primary question is: When do you choose the 2 coat plaster vs 20 minute mud? Thanks Kirk!
Howdy Adam, I just did this last week and we did video it.
I used a 20 minute mud, and left the old cedar lath on where we could, in areas where there was nothing we broke out the perimeter and attached wire mesh the 3.4 wire, and did use the twenty minute mud.
It will be an amusing video as I rambled as usual, thu, I lost the mud sort of, it took all my strength to apply this setting or stiff joint compound to the ceiling.
Ceilings work is defying gravity, so it was good the joint compound I was using was in set mode, but it took my strength while my skill's sat on the sidelines and enjoyed my penalties for rambling when I should have been plastering.
Goog thing I'm a strong man, funny that hour of strength rather than skill did beat me up.😉
Bottom line I got it done and lived to plaster another day.
Forever my favorite TH-cam channel
Evening Shannon, thank you.
Welcoming, peace, love, and brotherhood, back into the 🌎 of Plastering.
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Hey Kirk, I feel like I know you from watching so many of your videos. Really well done man. Its great how you have your whole family involved in your business. You are a true pro. I have a small bathroom I want to plaster. It had wallpaper, and in the process of scraping off the old wallpaper glue much of the paper came off with it. The drywall looks to be white paper. The house was built in the 60's. Its not down to the gypsum, but close I would guess. Do you think I can still plaster if I clean well, apply a good coat of bonding agent, apply a base, then a finish? Or do you think I need to go with drywall mud to skim, then bonding agent? Don't want to replace the drywall and start from scratch? much appreciated. Chris
Evening Chris dude, good question, what I do is take as much off that will come off done wisely, any left over paper that may lift due to moisture I then scrape off.
I apply a bonding agent usually plaster weld, note Plaster weld is mostly water, again the water can still lift any areas that are still holding tight like a sock in a dryer, then I'm ready to mud, whatever mud you choose is up to you and what you wish to achieve,
cheers,
kirk giordano Rendering
I am impressed that you replied to me. I would have thought with such an old video u might not have. Thank u. Also, how cool is it that you have so many people around the world watching and enjoying your videos. I really enjoy them btw. It is a little strange, but I find myself watching these often. Better than a tv show or something. It wouldn't surprise me if you end up with your own cable show or something like Bob Vila if you wanted to. Thanks again and much success to you and yours. You have an awesome family.
Fantastic job Captain Kirk..
Good evening Jogo Dude, thank you, my friend
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Great video. I was looking for some info on plastering over painted Sheetrock and I think I found my answer thanks to your video. One gripe I have is the stuff you said about taping mud. I’m a professional taper and we don’t do it like that. We do our first two coats with “hot mud” which is a powder that you mix up and comes in either 20, 45, or 90 minute working times, and then our final coat with plus 3 (and a thin coat of plus 3 dries in about an hour). I can have a wall from the first coat to ready to paint in one day (the more you know :D). Anyway, I’m definitely going to try the plaster weld stuff. Oh and I’ve been using a pool trowel for plastering for years too! Great videos!
Howdy Eddie, my fellow mudder, thank you, your method of using the drywall mud than the other to keep moving is similar to this way or plastering.
I was referring to the fella's who makes the three typical trips then sand.
Live long and plaster
Sharing plastering information, as the world can use more teachers.
Great job as always, I love your videos
Evening Azteca, you are an officer and a gentleman,
thank you,
cheers,
kirk giordano rendering
If you build a new house and have cold winters and hot summers .
Find a reputable plaster contractor to finish your interior walls .
Plaster walls have a higher concentration of aggregate , which means they hold temperature longer .
they will always be considerably cooler in summer and warmer in winter . Plus , after initial application there is no dust . Period . There is no sanding .
This is correctamundo.
@@StuccoPlastering Cheers to you ! People do not realize , that drywall was a temporary fix when many plastermen were called to war . Then after there were few teachers . I have also had people say to me that plaster cracks blah blah blah . Then I ask where they seen the cracked plaster , and it is always ALWAYS a run down building , abandoned house places that are not livable to begin with . The housewives loves the no dust finishing . " Keep shining those walls "
Watching you skim out the wall looks effortless with that trowel and makes me want to learn that technic. I skim a lot of drywall, always with knives and a pan. Good video Thx
Hi Chuck Below,thank you,
if you can use a knife and pan, a hawk and trowel is easier,
Best wishes,
kirk giordano
Kirk awesome videos! I truly am huge fan! Quick questions, with veneer plaster, do you still have to tape the joints before hand?
Hello Domenic Larosa, excellent question,
but unfortunately, absolutely,
Kirk and Jason Giordano DIY plastering tips
Thanks again Kirk..very informative video.. ordering Diamond plaster after I catch up on your videos I missed..
Peace, Justin
Howdy Justin, thank you.
Introducing peace, love, and harmony back into the world of plastering.
The University of plastering by Kirk and Jason Giordano
Also, have you made a video discussing the application of tape to "stress lines"? I saw this in another video (plaster over wood paneling) and did not quite understand the methodology or reason for it.
Thank you sir!
Hello bengvangarde, dude, I like your style.
Technically your not supposed to plaster over wood paneling as when the wood moves the plaster cracks, but such is life.
We tape the joints as if we didn't then these seams would hairline crack.
have a happy new year!
kirk Giordano Plastering
+Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips
Thanks for the info! Can you tell me what to expect, if I apply a bonding agent, and a one coat veneer plaster - on regular drywall? Sorry for all the questions, but I think I will use this stuff a lot in the future. Gracias!
Hey dude, many experienced guys do just one coat, you have to go a bit thicker and if you over trowel it pulls the coat right off.
This one coat system takes a bit of practice.
Best wishes,
Kirk giordano
'nother great tutorial Kirk, stories welcome too,gotta have some fun. So, being a artsy type painter I have fairly good hand skills with priming masonite/canvas which has to be smooth of course, course I'm priming with flake/lead white paint...which has a buttery consistency like the veneer plasters. At any rate my painted drywall parts of 90 year old home were done on the real cheap by a non-pro through previous owner (My fiance had bought home before we met:). What I want to do is just use the plaster weld and do a veneer finish then paint her up again or use roller for orange peel finish first...is that OK to do? I dislike the thought of having to lay in a base coat or sand anything I don't have to. Thanks in advance of any advice.
Howdy Mars, this method will work great.
Best wishes with all your projects,
Giordano’s teaching video’s
Hi Kirk, really enjoy your videos! You have convinced me to use veneer plaster in some investment proprties I have. Can you give me some advice on something? I will likely use this product on some interior walls in a few mobile homes. These walls are typically the cheap, faux wood paneling. I am really hoping that I can get away with applying a plaster to them to get a stronger wall, and cleaner look. Do you advise this? Also, what would be the result if used just plaster-weld and a one coat diamond veneer plaster? Thanks in advance and keep up the great videos!!
Hi bengvangarde, I would not advise diamond for mobile homes, usually the walls are very thin and at some time you may decide to move it?
these veneer finishes are great for acting like an air conditions systems, as in absorbing moisture then releasing it when dryer conditions appear, however any movement such as a weak wall or any type of vibrations they will crack like an egg.
If I were you know what I do I would choose a type of plastic myself.
best wishes,
Kirk giordano
Just use blueboard and USG Diamond Veneer or Uni-Kal. Whichever you use make sure its on top of Blueboard. Easy.
I really wish this was common in Canada. I finish a lot of drywall but i would love to plaster a wall in my home just for fun.
@@benpurcell5431 good evening, what’s holding you back google
“plastering yards in my area” buy the bace and finish and give it a go. 😉
Hardcore skill my friend!
Evening Ottis, thank you,
cheers,
Kirk giordano rendering
Great info Kirk. Can you share with us how you keep regular steel trowels from rusting. Obviously I dry mine afterwards, but I still get rust on them. thx.
Howdy david, no such thing, I have a truck full of these rusty trowel, I even hit them with oil, but the cold night air and steel simple don't mix,
You can keep them indoors, that will help.
Best wishes with all your projects,
Giordano’s teaching video’s
Hi Kirk,
Inspired by you guys I've been determined to remove the painful slow drying and awful sanding dust of regular sheetrock taping from my job, wherever possible. I've put in a lot of practice with the diamond basecoat and veneer finishes, which are available to me. I built some walls in my basement, and went over and over them again and again until I felt comfortable with my technique enough to use it on a job. I took the plunge and two coat plastered a small room addition I built where I would have normally done my tape, wait, sand, choke, cleanup routine. Customers loved it, and I got a serious workout!
So I have a question for you:
When laying on my finish coat of the diamond, sometimes I will get a little bubble, or blister that lifts up in the coat as the trowel is passing over. I've tried all kinds of different techniques to eliminate these bubbles: changing trowel angle, thicker or thinner coat, more finesse, and less pressure on the trowel, everything I could think to experiment with. I have mostly succeeded in eliminating them, but still I get one here or there, and no amount of troweling or pressure at any stage during the set will take it out. Only poking a hole with the corner of the trowel to release the air, then going over will fix them. Do you have any tips, as the only pro I have to ask, for the finish application to avoid creating these bubbles/blisters entirely? or maybe there is a trick to knock them down that I dont know about?
The learning process can be frustrating at times, when all I've got are a few videos, and the manufacturers information from the back of the bag.
Thanks for all the awesome videos guys!
Good evening Mark Lewin Great tips, sometimes when we trowel down too soon prior to the setting of the base coat this will cause blistering or if a person decides to apply just the finish coat it can drag with excess troweling and loosen it which will also cause blistering.
Thanks for the response,
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco channel
Morning mark, In the video's I do, I do both coats back to back, to avoid blisters, let the first coat set! Fully!, this way when you trowel down the finish coat the base coat can't lift, as it fully dried or cured.
This is a sure way of not getting blisters!
As far as the product sticking to everything you're right it does, many of the interior guys I know don't use a bonding agent as they tell me, "kirk, the veneers even stick to glass" however in video I take and advice all precautions.
the base coat does have fine sand it it so even if you steel trowel if as flat as possible, when you rub your hand on it you can feel this silica sand.
Best wishes,
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco videos
Thanks Andy, Mark, and Kirk for all the helpful tips! I think Kirks wisdom is going to be the ticket here, I'm going to try going over a completely bone dry basecoat instead of green (just set but still damp). I imagine the finish will set up faster though, as the base will wick out the moisture as soon as it is laid on. Also, I have been roughening the basecoat just slightly by brooming near its full set, but not a full on raking like a traditional basecoat of structolite or stucco would get. This is per USG's instructions, and in my tests the finish wouldn't grip quite as well over a smooth but not polished basecoat. It was easier to peel the coats apart, whereas when broomed slightly it would rip both layers and the sheetrock off together! Also without the bonding agent, just the basecoat over sheetrock paper could be delaminated with some picking! With bonder, it would rip out a big chunk of the wallboard with it. Again go Kirk! bonding agent is cheap insurance! His videos have drilled that into me.
To Mark, I can offer up a few tips on mixing and finish troweling.
I do have the "cage type" mixing paddle that USG asks for. It does produce a much better batch, without overworking the plaster, or introducing air. I was using a standard egg beater type paddle before which worked fine, but would tend to "whip" up the plaster making it fluffier, and stiffer from the mixer over working it.
As for the drill, I've only been using a heavy duty mixing drill like kirk uses in his videos. I wouldn't attempt to mix up a full bag of this stuff without one of these drills, but with smaller batches I have used a standard drill. I was able to get the cage type paddle from Bon-Tool.
As for the patchiness, I have experienced that, when either over troweling, troweling without a little water lubrication, troweling with too much water, etc..
When laying on the coat I try to make it as smooth as possible all in one go, and when it does come time to trowel, I try to use very gentile strokes, with little water, to bring it to that nice uniform grey look that is rock hard, but not over polished. The trowel can need a little water to lubricate, but too much will wet the finish coat leaving a weaker white area. Or if I miss a spot in the finish trowel, it will be smooth but not densified? I guess and will dry whiter. Its like it needs one nice pass to bring out that hard grey finish, but more passes will polish it up so its glassy and splotchy looking, and I think if it is that smooth, paint wont actually soak into it!
I don't think the patchiness is caused by the mixing at all, its all in the troweling down technique. I thought the same as you did, but after getting the correct paddle, I still had to improve my troweling down skills anyway. The paddle did definitely produce a better batch in the ways I outlined above though.
Thanks everyone! I will continue to post as I learn and experiment more with the process.
Kirk keep the awesome videos coming! You rock!
Evening Joseph M, dude you have been busy, I have a big room coming up in 3 weeks I will try and show a bit more detail to the simple task of applying these veneer plasters,
best wishes,
and thanks for the bone.
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco instructional videos and forum
Morning Mark Lewin, it all takes practice.
A cage paddle helps but we can use any paddle with good results.
The wavy walls are from just taking your trowel from the bottom straight up, go sideways as well and this will fix the waves.
Cleaning up buckets should be immediate, or just slam them against something solid at specific angles, even this slamming buckets take practice.
I can usually clean them in a minute or two if I slam at the just right angle the plaster pops off, the more accumulation of resides in buckets the harder each time to remove existing plaster, Confused yet?
These are just a few tips all come with practice,
Best wishes, you're the man for doing it.
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco instructional videos and forum
Hi Kirk, been watching your videos for the last couple of months and really enjoy your down to earth way of explaining your trade. I have a question; I am a drywall guy that does tape and texture as well and was wondering if plaster veneer can be used like we do in taping without covering the whole wall. I'm wondering if using diamond veneer may cut down on the process that taping and topping have? thanks for any insight you may have...
Hi Jack, absolutely this can be done, I have done it myself a few times. 🍾
Is using sheetrock/gypsum drywall what should be used when closing up the walls? Is it the most cost effective, or best for insulation for temperature and sound? Maybe I should use 1/4" gypsum, and use Imperial for floating things. The house already has some sheetrock and and a lot of it is cement plaster finished. Another question, which has taken me many videos to catch on to...When you say Imperial 1st coat with some sand, and Imperial finish coat...this is because YOU mix the batch yourself... You are not getting premixed..So the base of USG Imperial you use is the same, but on the finish coat you simply dont put sand in it...And Diamond is just FINER version of Imperial? Did I make sense and am I correct?
Thank you!
Good evening Phil, whether you call the board sheetrock or drywall, both mean the same thing.
USG makes both Imperial and Diamon veneer base coat and finishes coat plasters.
Imperial is more durable, so it's called out more often for schools and or hospitals. I prefer the diamond finish as this finish coat as it has more lime in it, thus giving me the ability to move the fat around easier.
To tell you the truth, I don't know whether I'm using imperial or diamond as both spread the same for me.
If I didn't read the bags, I would have no clue as to which one I was spreading, but both are superior to gypsum products.
FYI the base-coats both have sand, which gives it the strength.
The finish coats have silica sand, which is like 30/30 or talcum powder. That's why it can be spread smoothly as glass.
No one can spread a material as smooth as glass if there is sand in it, as one can only spread sand so smoothly.
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Subscribers, you can depend on us to explain with truth, honor, experience, and skill for your time invested for wishing to learn the hows and whys of plastering.😉
Hello Kirk, I enjoy your videos and have been watching for many years.
Can you tell me if you still recommend two coat skim finish (base and finish coat) if going over drywall painted walls like in video above?
Older video but just wanted to see if you have changed anything here. Thanks
For the longest lasting finish two coats are better.
Hi Kirk, I always thought that you had to trowel on a tight coat of Finish over a set Imperial or Diamond base coat and then using the same batch of finish, trowel on a leveling second coat of finish. And then wait until that starts to set then use water either in a spray bottle or mop (brush) and hard trowel the second coat until it sets filling in any cat faces and scratches along the way of the setting plaster.
Hi Robert Bressem, correctamundo, but this is a small patch and it's going to painted to match the original walls, the other walls were of a drywall compound, my work with the veneer was for example. I could have use about ten different finishes to patch this same small area.
best wishes and thanks for watching.
kirk giordano plastering
You should have your own show on HGTV flipping houses or rehabbing houses
Evening Pul, man, I sho-nuff like your style, thank you.😉
I've replaced the drywall in my living room with 5/8 fire code X panels with the plan of using Weld Crete interior bonding agent under an Imperial base coat and Diamond finish. This is a solo project and I know I won't be able to complete more than one wall at a time with potentially a day or 2 before I move on to the next wall adjoining wall. Will this cause a problem where the right angles meet?
Thank you for your videos. I recently replaced a retro fit window with a new build needing stucco knocked out and replaced. The final permit inspector said it was quality work and wouldn't have known it was my 1st go at it. I have your videos to thank! Cheers!
Evening JF, you appear to be on the right track, so much in fact, soon you will be the teacher, and I'll be retired on a beach somewhere watching ladies walk by, wearing something close to nothing.
Bringing peace, love, and harmony back to the world of plastering.
The complete plastering encyclopedia on video, by the plastering messengers of TH-cam.
Thank you!
Should I have any concerns about plastering one wall at a time?
@@jf7923 depends on your skill level, I would suggest you get help. At least a friend to mix.
Have you used unikal venner plaster...we use that in santa barbara ..plus the trowels we use the square trowels with the short handle that way the trowel doesnt mark.. glad watching videos from another point of view or company...keep it up
Good Morning Daniel dude, I have used Unikal Veneer, the fact is I can't tell only a slight difference between all ten commonly sold veneer plasters that I've used over the years and yes I have tried them all, until next year when another cement company make a new veneer with a duiifernt name using the same ingreadiats.
Live long and plaster
Mastering Plastering by Kirk and Jason Giordano
Love these videos ! Is there a paint brand you recommend for diamond vaneer.
I prefer Sherwin Williams, personally.👨🏼🎨
Hey Kirk, I'm researching the USG Diamond and Imperial finishes for a client of mine in a large custom home. In your experience are these finishes typically painted in all cases? Or can they be applied with a color and be the finished wall surface without paint? This is a completely new construction setting. We are also considering Venetian Plaster to achieve more color modulation and depth. Thoughts?
I poked around and watched several of your videos, great channel and thanks for all you do.
Hi Chad, yes, you can add colors, but the colors rarely come out as someone expects, therefore I tell folks to paint and don't suggest there is an option for coloring anymore.
cheers,
kirk giordano rendering
Kirk, Thanks for your response. I think we'll be headed to the venetian plaster route then for sure. We are also looking to subtly change color from room to room possibly, so that will give us the ability to do so with predictability! Thanks again, Chad
Thank you for your videos. I am giving the home my husband and I built in our youth to my daughter and want to help her with some updates. The kitchen had a plaster veneer over Sheetrock on the ceiling and it has a rather large fluorescent fixture we would like to do away with. We will need to Sheetrock where it was and hopefully plaster it so it can’t be seen. It is a very thick sand finish and is very heavy texture. My question is should I chip back some of the plaster and use fiberglass tape over joints before trying to plaster it again or do you have any tips for us. The man who originally did the job was a retired plaster and an artist and I know we will not find someone like him again. He actually made us a hand plastered crown molding in the living room and repaired ornate plasterwork at a local theater. Thanks for any help.
Good evening Barbara, a fiberglass mesh tape is necessary when starting a plaster repair where all the sheetrock meets.
However, when doing patchwork, it can be problematic as the fiberglass tends to show unless an excess of mud is applied to cover it. The seams can be seen.
I'd advise you to apply a bonding agent then use a basecoat of just the veneer as it has sand in it to hide the patch.
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Thanks for sharing all of your hard earned knowledge Kirk! Love watching your videos. I was hoping you could help me? An inexperienced plasterer did a job for a friend and used gauging plaster “solely” over CMU’s on an interior basement. It’s a mess. It does seem to have bonded. My plan is to use a bonding agent to slow the suction and ensure it bonds then apply a layer of Diamond base coat and a layer of Diamond Veneer. It will be my first foray with plaster but I do have experience with Portland based Stucco. Thank you for any guidance you may have!
Howdy Dan sounds like the guy only had a clue as to what he was doing.
Clean the wall thoroughly, apply your basecoat then when set applies a top coat.
It sounds to me the first guy didn't wet the wall adequately to create a natural mechanical bond.
That means wet the wall with a garden hose not dripping wet but just wet enough for both porous surfaces to bond.
If the wall is painted a bonding ajent must be applied to the wall never in the mix.
best wishes,
Sound advice for plastering issues from your favorite stucco geek
Kirk, long time fan. Love all your videos and enthusiasm towards work and life.
I have a question that I'm sure you've encountered. I had a leak in a bathroom ceiling corner. Took care of the exterior leak. Patched the corner with drywall. I had to steam and peel some wallpaper around the patch.
Kirk, I know you're not a wallpaper or drywall guy, but you seem to have all the answers. The plan is to re-wallpaper over the existing wallpaper. The problem is, the left over wallpaper glue and wallpaper fragments around the patch.
Kirk, can I skim over these wallpaper residues without having to remove all of them? I've heard conflicting answers on different forums.
Morning Joshua Hogg, If I were you I would simply spray some soapy water or hit the areas with a damp rag, let sit just like cleaning a pan with baked on crust you allow time and soaking to do the work for you.
Then after the water has set on the paper for about 20 to 30 minutes it will loosen the glue, you then simply use a putty knife to scrape of the residue, use skill rather than strength.
I have done this about 20 times so I know how to remove that nasty paper.
Beside your new paper is only as good as what you apply it over, compromised basecoat, failure in new paper in time.
best wishes,
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Kirk, I appreciate the feedback and you taking the time to answer my question. I think the service you provide in teaching is invaluable.
Evening Joshua Hogg, thank you and have a good evening.
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Thanks for your response. In the bathroom, above the tub, part of the ceiling fell down. The ceiling is popcorn textured and after cleaning and removing all the loose pieces, squaring it off, etc, there is wood lath. Just like the small ceiling hole or Victorian home ceiling that you did. Someone suggested using green board to fill in the hole, what do you suggest.
Good Evening Ann, good question, you can attach sheetrock if you wish or skim coat the cedar wood lath, If it were me I skim coat the cedar wood lath.
Live long and plaster
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Hey Kirk, great video. I have a question. I want to plaster over a heavy knockdown mud job with a lot of uneven new sheetrock patches in an old house. Should I float the walls with a new coat of mud to even out the surface before plastering, or is it better just to plaster with a thicker buildup to hide the old texture/uneven areas?
Hi Alex, as no doubt it’s painted, apply a bonding agent, and simply skim over the exsisting finish.
"What does that mean? Hell, I don't know; I'm an applicator, not an engineer." XD
Howdy Brett, the comment means I don't know, I'm an applicator, not an engineer.
In other words I can care less about the specifics of manufacturing I know what works, sort of like I don't wish to understand electricity, I just want to flick a switch and have a light go on or off, there's too much useless information out there.
Cheers, live long and plaster
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Kirk I have this video and use it for reference. ?
Can I use veneer plaster over existing painted walls and ceilings. What are applications to prep. Some dude said I need to apply roll mesh and adhesive for bonding. Any input much appreciated my man.
Merry Xmas
He's close but no cookie, roll or paint on a bonding agent such as what I did here, We used a bonding agent called Plaster-Weld found at any plastering yard.
@@StuccoPlastering Thank you my man. Stay safe and godbless man.
I have a house built in 1888 where the previous owner drywalled over plaster, I'm on my first room removing it. It's over very fine, very smooth white plaster as the finish coat (it was wallpapered so I stripped it to the bare plaster) and I'm working on restoring it. Is veneer plaster the right finish for me? Do you have thoughts on other peoples suggestion of mixing veneer plaster and joint compound 50/50 to avoid using bonding agents? Should I be using plain joint compound anywhere?
I have tons of screw holes to patch from the drywall and the plaster magic repair, along with some cracks to fill and large chunks patched with drywall to be finished over. I'm going to be replicating this process throughout my house so I'd truly appreciate any thoughts!
Evening Munch, I'd recommend what we are doing in this video, USG makes both Imperial and Diamon veneer base coat and finishes coat plasters.
Imperial is more durable, so it's called out more often for schools and or hospitals. I prefer the diamond finish as this finish coat as it has more lime in it, thus giving me the ability to move the fat around easier.
FYI, the bond agent quikrete at HD is less than 10 dollars.
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@@StuccoPlastering Thanks for the reply. I noticed you tend to answer a lot of questions for people even on these old videos. I just want you to know that it's deeply appreciated!!
hi kirk im an irish plasterer working in canada using the diamond coat im having issues with cracking in some jobs im using the same plaster weld as you on standard drywall and im base coating the wall like you.do you mix the base coat pure or do you mix it with the diamond coat aswell.i cant seem to find the right mixture of my base as its leading to cracks which i do not like thanks in advance
Hi gavin meehan, good question.
It is not always application and or the mix, sometimes a house will vibrate, move, shift and simply settle.
if the floors are loose or the windows and doors slammed this will create cracks too, big old window or doors? solid and heavy wood doors? Old fashioned windows with the lead weights as interior pulley systems?
Thin walls with weak foundations, lifting and setting especially with rain?
Has this only happened on this one job?
walk around the exterior perimeter if it's stucco look at the foundation, stucco walls concrete slabs, walkways, if these have lots of cracks weather structral or hairline you may be experiencing natural ground movements.
Anyone who feels a 1/8 inch interior veneer system will stop a hundred ton home from shifting is not informed on all possible effects.
However since you ask, clean buckets and drill paddle, don't overmix, mix only what you can use at that time, make certain the sheetrock is screwed in well, fiber mesh tape is installed at all joints, apply your base coat over a bonding agent of some type,
Base coats have fine sand in them for a bit more strength, how much strength can 1/8 be?
Not much, certainly won't stop a home from moving, not even ten solid inch can accomplish this. Trying to keep it real, before we beat ourselves up with ill thought of incompetence.
O.k. back to where I left off, you allow your base coat to fully dry, now apply your finish coat, wet your base coat a bit as necessary trowel as little as possible, allow to set, then wet and finish, don't over trowel as this can loosen and pull the finish coat off the base coat, really does take a bit of practice,
best wishes my fellow plasterer and have a groovy new year!
Kirk giordano plastering
Kirk, I never thought of using plaster weld on regular sheet rock and applying a veneer plaster.because I always thought I had to use blue board, which by the way, is in not easily found in my area.
That's a common thought, any drywall board is fine, simply apply a bonding agent you are good to go.
What type of bonding agent do you suggest?
I have been watching your videos and listening intently to your descriptions about materials and technique. I have been rehabbing an old home with plaster walls and stucco exterior. I have been using the Diamond veneer base and finish coats inside and each time I have worked with the finish veneer it is a struggle to apply and have a smooth finish. It seems to dry as soon as the trowel touches it and starts to scumble across as well as start cracking. I watch all you pros with a smooth application and able to work over it multiple times but my experience has zero tolerance. Obviously its super frustrating. What is happening here? Thanks
I have a older home in PA that was built in the 1900 I am restoring it to its original beauty as much as I can. Tell me this some areas there is a mixed drywall and plaster and lath together. So if I understand correctly . I need put the glue down first then base coat over that then I put the veneer. or can I skip the base-coat and go straight to veneer?
When it was built no doubt the used a base coat of stucco-lite then finished with lime plaster. You can use a lime basecoat and then finish with a lime finish. In our area they sell Diamond or Imperial base and finish coats usually, both are produced by USG. The best place to purchase is, "Weside Building Supplies" which is a plastering yard.
Hello Kirk, I just plastered one wall and will do 3 more, thanks for all your videos. One question, how do you clean off any plaster that missed the drop sheet and hit the floor and set, same questions for cleaning off tools? Is there a good cleaner out there that cleans off residue plaster? Thanks!
Good Morning Al my fellow plasterer, as a rule I clean my trowel regularly with a green sponge float so the residues won't build up, if it get on the floor or wall, I wipe it off asap, as some floors can stain if it new wood not yet treated with any sort of varnish, if you must clean a new floor or redwood deck, often sandpaper is the only way to get stucco or plaster staining out.
Live long and plaster
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excellent
Sajid Rafique Hello Sajid, thank you, Cheers!
Kirk Giordano
So the first coat veneer would be considered a base coat? I bought finish plaster to build an 1/8" over top of drywall to meet the height of the original plaster. Do I have to go buy veneer before I lay the finish coat?
Evening Ashroyer, you can use the finish coat for the base and the finish. I have skimmed entire walls with just the finish coat, myself.
If you do this allow time for the first coat to set, or you will get bubbling or separation or even cracks and flaking off. Why, excellent question, glad you asked.
If the first, say, finish coat is not completely dry the force of your next coat will stick to the unsecured or set first coat then lift the first one from the wall, and then shit happens. 🍻
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@@StuccoPlastering Wouldnt a first coat of finish be too smooth to add a second over it? .... thanks
Good evening, my friend, a LIme basecoat has sand in it.
Do you absolutely need a basecoat?
No, however, those not familiar with lime plasters might find it beneficial.
Can I apply one coat of finish plaster at 1/16 to one inch?
You betcha. But I have lots of time in.
To apply a coat of lime finish plaster say one with, is easy, but the martial has many do's and dont's. Way too much to write down here.🤔
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Love the videos... can plaster bonding be substituted with a concrete bonding agent like sika?
Good question, "Sika is engineered to be used instead of or water to make the tile grout have better adhesion." it's not for stucco.
You can use Quikrete bonding agent, sold at all home depots and lowes and almost all smaller hardware stores.🍻
@@StuccoPlastering I appreciate you taking your time too answer, cheers
I need to apply new topcoat over a cracked plaster/lathe ceiling. I'll first remove any loose topcoat chips, which will expose the brown coat. Can I primer the brown coat with a Zinnsler BIN primer? Then apply a veneer 2 coat system?
There has been some water damage from the ceiling in the past, so I want something more water resilient.
Howdy John, you will need to apply a bonding agent for the plaster to adhere.
It's up to you if you wish to prime it first then apply a bonding agent, I wouldn't
Cheers, live long and plaster
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Ok I will apply plasterweld to the browncoat. What material do you recommend for a ceiling topcoat?
Howdy John dude, i would recomend a veneer finish, myself
live long and plaster
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kirk ,great videos , I have an 1860 house that has a crow's foot stucco finish on the walls. Can I use veneer plaster to smooth the walls out. I plan on applying the bonding agent then smooth plaster. I was worried about cracking. Will this work?
Ben Doetch I think you can go 20 minute mud right over it with no bonding agent. I’ve done it over plywood with drywall next to it, very uneven surface and it worked, I got a plumb wall with 20 minute mud
Evening Ben, of course it will work, you can also apply 20-minute mud to the area.
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Nice work. Hope your spreading the word. Tape and joint is a waste of time. Ps your right the Irish are Brilliant trowels, but they learnt of us Brits. London home of the TRUE plasterers. Ps you guys up and around the North east if the USA are pretty darn good too.
Evening Jimjim Skimmer, thank you, theres little glory in being the best, plus folks expecting more work from you.
I have worked with every nationality on the planet and witness first hand anyone who loves this trade is usually really good, guys half my weight sometimes run circles around me as they love what they do.
Best wishes in Britain.
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Lol good answer. Im gonna start a movement to get rid of tape and mud. Lol.
Evening JimJim,
I'll join your movement too, but lets aim higher,
let's also end world hunger also,
best wishes,
Kirk and Jason's DIY plastering tips
Your sooo right. Raise the standard of living worldwide. God bless mate.
Hey Kirk, I am thinking about plastering over some regular drywall to hide some flaws. After a bonding agent, can I just do a basecoat only if I want the sand texture or should I still do a veneer coat with sand additive? Also is it feasible to tint the basecoat if I can leave it as the only coat. Thank you
Howdy chilly willy Dude type in one coat veneer plastering to find your answer,
best wishes,
kirk giordano plastering
Kirk: what happens if you have lines on your finish.? You can't sand. What can you do? Or can it be sanded?
Hi Spencer, simply mix more and go over the holidays or flaws, use diamond for this as it has no sand, you can also use taping mud.
cheers,
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Great video! How do you tint a diamond veneer finish?
Type that question into our site, I do have a video that explains how to tint interior plasters.👨🏻🔬
Question: is the first coat and the second coat from the same bag of plaster or is the finish coat from a different bag of plaster?
Evening spencer, the base coat is Imperial veneer, the finish coat is Diamond veneer.
cheers,
kirk giordano rendering
Kirk, thank you for the videos, great advise for brave DIYers to jump into the unknown. I have three questions. If I finish the ceiling on day one and walls on day two, what should I do about the corners so as not to crack? If I am working on a very large ceiling, can I leave a raw edge and restart that the next day? Any special treatments for that? Lastly, I did a bathroom and the Diamond Veneer set faster than I could work it down to smooth. Can I go back over that with a second coat of Diamond Veneer (with retarder) to make that smooth as glass on a second attempt?
Evening Robert Barnard, yes, you can apply a base coat and finish coat on separate days, weeks apart if you want.
Corner are no differently than walls I use a metal corner bead myself.
If your finish coat has imperfections, you can correct theses holiday's with another complete coat or just do touchup on the areas that your not happy with, you can even use taping mud on any imperfections.
cheers,
Kirk giordano Plastering
Kirk,
Thanks for the response. I have read and seen where it is recommended to wet the base coat with an Alum solution if it drys or sets before you apply the topcoat (Diamond Veneer). Should I do the same when going back over to repair holidays or a complete recoat to correct a bad first attempt on that first topcoat?
Howdy, I usually wet my base coats down too especially if it's a big or huge wall, with small patches I don't need to wet them as I'm done in minutes,
I just use water to wet or mist the base coats myself.
Cheers,
Kirk giordano
I use 20 minute compound, I would be finished with that little section in 1 hour and ready for paint. As far as the sanding, it depends on your experience. All I need is a wipe down with screen.
cool beans daddieo, the problem is they did want gypsum applied or I too can do it in the same amount of time they knew their materials and chose limestone which is water resistance and 50 times stronger than gypsum that is called among other thing drywall compounds.
Cheers, Kirk Giordano
Kirk Giordano plastering Inc's.
Do you have to tape joints and corners if using stucco for finish? thank you
Hi Jason, yes sir
Kirk: so if I have 25 boards in a room, I put 2 coats of veneer plaster over every square inch?
Howdy Spencer, absolutely, or you can spread 3 coats of tapping mud over every square inch, but sanding is required for the taping mud usually.
BTW, this veneer application take years of hands on applications to learn to apply.
cheers,
kirk giordano rendering
Thanks Kirk great vid.
Good evening my friend, thank you.
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Joseph hi I'm Andy I'm a plaster from Ireland we use this stuff a lot we call it hardwall anyhow what your saying about the bubbles in your finish we call that blistering it happens when you use to much water when your materiel has not set enough yet try dry troweling your walls or else wait for the walls to set for longer period of time between trowels ok buddy
Evening Andy Nolan from Ireland, everyone realizes the real plasters are from Ireland, been there see you guys at work.
Yes we call it blistering here too, did I actually say bubbles? opps.
It's tougher than it looks to explain while working, thanks for the tips.
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hello...
iv been taping for 14 years and i'm using diamond veneer at work. I'm no sure whats going wrong, after mixing when i go to trowel it on the wall its incredibly had to spread or work with and it seems to set up instantly... any tip will be great full... thanks
haseebhaniff hey dude, easy question,
when you mix diamond or any of the other gypsum based compounds, the drill, drill paddle and the bucket must be very clean or you accelerate the mix, for example say you have about 30 to 40 minutes for the diamond to set, with dirty mixing tools or buckets you contaminate the material where it will now set in 15 minutes or less.
You know of course taping mud dose not do this when mixed with dirty tools.
Best wishes,
kirk Giordano plastering
I used plaster one time. It set up in 5 minutes and I ended up with a bucket of rock; it is also impossible to sand.
@@timalan7406 a dirty bucket or paddle will accelerate if faster than the typical 40 minutes. Lime plaster is kinda like liquid rock, when it drys it returns to limestone which can’t be sanded, try joint compound next time around they sell in 20, 40, 60 minute set times and these can be sanded. Cheers
You want some British gypsum board finish mate, bit of pink lol love the vids btw
Good morning Ashley dude, thanks for the tip, happy holiday's to you and yours
Live long, and plaster
Plastering tips and techniques
Kirk, I am wanting to do a two layer grassello Venetian plaster finish on some interior drywall walls, but they are painted a few times over the years with eggshell paint. What would you recommend as a base coat? A bonding agent, and then a plaster basecoat? Would DIAMOND Veneer Basecoat Plaster be a good choice? Thanks!
Evening Matt, I'd apply a bonding agent then cover no matter how thick with either Imperial or Diamond veneer basecoat, both are made by the same company. USG. 🍻 Unlike what folks say, I have applied both of these basecoats an inch or more depending on what I'm trying to achieve.
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My walls are 1/2 inch drywall 1/2 plaster veneer. Any recommendation on plaster. I was going to use plaster of Paris. I usually use 20 min lite joint compound. On drywall never done plaster veneer.
Greetings the product I'm using in this video is made by USG, they make an imperial and diamond veneer plaster that I would recommend for all kitchens and bathrooms.
If you can spread one material you can spread them all, it's the material knowledge that is learned.
Cheers,
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MREBnupe I recommend you hire Kirk to do it
Nice job.
I'd like to add a veneer plaster over existing plaster in my shower.
It's got a sealer on it with some cracking and uneven areas that need to be built up maybe an inch.
What products would you recommend I use?
Hi don davis, I have no preference to the veneer base coat and a finish coat.
I feel they are too similar applying for me to tell the difference which one I'm applying weather it's Diamond, Imperial, Kal Kote, Gypsum, Red Top or any of the other Veneer plaster
I do recommend that whichever veneer system base coat you use that you use thiers finish coat.
Also, you can apply just a finish coat, you simply apply back to back coats, total thickness from 1/8 to 3/16.
I prefer the base coat and finish coat myself.
I use mainly Imperial or Diamond as my material yard sells only these.
Cheers.
kirk Giordano plastering
Can StrutoLite Base Coat be used the same as Imperial Base Coat? Only asking because I live in a lunar crater and that is what is available. I can make this customer wait if it's not the same or similar
And thanks again for the very helpful video
quick question Kirk, can this veneering system be applied on old walls which has been heavily painted after applying plaster weld??
thanks.
Evening Imaran, absolutely, remember your plaster is only as good as what it's applied to.
Cheers,
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Amazing stuff. Can't wait to try this out on my 100 year old house. I just don't think texturing will do it justice.
Howdy Ts, texturing hides flaws. This is why most homes have textures.
Smooth finishes take a bit more effort, but well worth the extra time.
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If you are using diamond finish to simply skim a painted wall for more uniform appearance, can you skip the base coat? Just plaster weld over the paint and straight to diamond finish ?
Yes, this can also be done but takes more practice as the finish would have to be set, and the applicator would have to know when to trowel it or the finish will bubble then loosen and peel off.
Thank you so much for the video. I am running into an issue where there are a few products that look the same and I am not sure of what to buy so can you please list the bonding agent, and the 2 veneer products to use as I am finding IMPERIAL Brand 50.5-lb Bag Foundation Plaster and I am not sure if this is the base? and I see USG diamond Sanded Veneer Finish and ISG diamond Veneer Finish that does not say sanded. I am so confused
Evening Gail, no worries,
Imperial and Diamond are both made by the same company, USG.
Both base coats both have sand in them for extra strength.
The finish coats can have sand if someone wants to apply a sand finish.
Or the finish coat could have the tiniest sand such as silica or 30/30 for really smooth finishes, any bond agent will work, I prefer Weld Crete but Quikcrette works too.
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Kirk, I don't like to paint. Can I mix natural pigments to the Diamond finish. Where do you like to purchase natural pigments and oxides?
Yes, you can add color pigments to any plaster, Google plastering yards near me. They have hundreds of colors.🍻
What is the mesh called that goes over the joints in the rock? I know it's not paper tape.
Hi Spencer, paper can be used however it's a fiberglass mesh tape.
Kirk
Than you for your answer....but when I mix it take only 3 minutes maxim and dry faster, or last 7 minutes, but I sow your video and it take longer . Thank you
Evening Ramon, fair enough,
FYI, if you mix this mud in a dirty bucket and or paddle, this will accelerate the mud.
Plus it also depends on the shelf life of the plaster.
Like explosive bombs, even they have a shelf life.
Or take myself for another example, my times almost expired, then you will have to show the folks how to do it, but it will probably take a few more months before that time comes.
Cheers, peace & harmony
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How do you match drywall texture after that
We match whatever finish needs to be matched with skill. We are plasterers.
Hi Kirk, can you put veneer plaster over a wall that has been skim coated with joint compound in the past? thanks
Hi Rob, sure you can, but you will need a bonding agent over that existing surface. 🍾
Good question.
Hmmm. I used blue board and plaster in my house. So you use an extra prep coat to put plaster over sheetrock it appears. With blue board it's one coat, no sanding, simple.
This is lime plaster or you can call it liquid rocks, it can’t be sanded, we don’t install Sheetrock, however we sill will prep it.😉
Kirk does can imperial out diamond plaster need to be used over blue board only or can this be applied over drywall? My understanding is plaster is for blue board or lath and plaster and drywall is for joint compound. School mer sir, school me.
Hey Gaurdduck Dude, excellent question, you can apply over any type of skin on the sheetrock or drywall, you need a bonding agent rolled over the board or painted onto that board, Quikrete sell for about ten bucks at HD, I use Larsons, "plaster weld." sold at most plastering yards.
@@StuccoPlastering thank you sir. Keep the videos coming we love em.