In the Bosch spare part there is a printed guide to change the silicone seal without removing the sump. You removed the sump and replaced the old seal? In the instructions it doesn't say that the old seal is to be removed.
Hi Antti Certainly there is a way to install the seal using a stainless band that is supplied with the kit. You will need to loosen the screws and locating the seal around the sump seal is more difficult as it has to be concentrically placed. The supplied seal is slightly oversize as well, so I prefer to remove the sump, clean all the trapped food grease and install the sump seal kit. Old seal stays in place, the thin silicone seal is placed under the lip of the black sump seal
Hello, we get also e15 message, after i make the workaround with this silicone kit we have a other problem when the dishwasher start, current earth leak, the pump works en also the drainpump, any idea?
Hi Abbas If you have used the silicone kit, there shouldn't be a leak, however I would request you check fitment as incorrect fitments can cause leaks. Also I hope you have not overtightened the sump screws causing them to strip and resulting in leakage, causing e15, this will cause error 15 and drainpump to come on. Also did u check for leaks near airbreak seal
You can do it standing up with the sump inside but no guarantee that the oring will seat, hence I remove the sump completely to ensure that the seal is seated before reinstallation. I think this method is best practice.
Far too complex. Also, the kit is poorly made. This is how I did it: 1) pull washer out and look at sump from side. You should see if the sump is leaking at the sump- machine contact. 2) dry up water in underneath sump (below foam float). Replace float and switch. Now go inside washer. 1) undo screws and push sump down. You can use wooden wedges to create a quarter inch gap between washer and sump. 2) get a $6 roll of plumbers putty. Use putty instead of gasket. Carefully work the putty into the gap. Be careful not to leave any spaces. This also goes for the two posts that the back screws go into. Make sure they are sealed with putty. 3) reinsert the four screws and tighten. The plumbers putty should squeeze out a little. Smooth the extra out. Reassemble other components. 4) test run a cycle while to dish washer is out, so you can look in the side to make sure that it is dry underneath. 5) you should be good to go for several years.
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In the Bosch spare part there is a printed guide to change the silicone seal without removing the sump. You removed the sump and replaced the old seal? In the instructions it doesn't say that the old seal is to be removed.
Hi Antti
Certainly there is a way to install the seal using a stainless band that is supplied with the kit. You will need to loosen the screws and locating the seal around the sump seal is more difficult as it has to be concentrically placed.
The supplied seal is slightly oversize as well, so I prefer to remove the sump, clean all the trapped food grease and install the sump seal kit.
Old seal stays in place, the thin silicone seal is placed under the lip of the black sump seal
Hi Antti here is a video on the seal installation.
th-cam.com/video/BADahLEO5qw/w-d-xo.html
Hello, we get also e15 message, after i make the workaround with this silicone kit we have a other problem when the dishwasher start, current earth leak, the pump works en also the drainpump, any idea?
Hi Abbas
If you have used the silicone kit, there shouldn't be a leak, however I would request you check fitment as incorrect fitments can cause leaks. Also I hope you have not overtightened the sump screws causing them to strip and resulting in leakage, causing e15, this will cause error 15 and drainpump to come on.
Also did u check for leaks near airbreak seal
is this video shot upside-down? As well it looks like you pulled the dishwasher and have it laying on floor? Is this the only way?
Hi What your seeing is the dishwasher laying on it's back. This allows the bottom end to be easily removed .
You can do it standing up with the sump inside but no guarantee that the oring will seat, hence I remove the sump completely to ensure that the seal is seated before reinstallation.
I think this method is best practice.
The video is not showing the underneath of the washing machine. You are just showing how you put back a couple of screws.
There's a second part to that video
Far too complex. Also, the kit is poorly made.
This is how I did it:
1) pull washer out and look at sump from side. You should see if the sump is leaking at the sump- machine contact.
2) dry up water in underneath sump (below foam float). Replace float and switch.
Now go inside washer.
1) undo screws and push sump down. You can use wooden wedges to create a quarter inch gap between washer and sump.
2) get a $6 roll of plumbers putty. Use putty instead of gasket. Carefully work the putty into the gap. Be careful not to leave any spaces. This also goes for the two posts that the back screws go into. Make sure they are sealed with putty.
3) reinsert the four screws and tighten. The plumbers putty should squeeze out a little. Smooth the extra out. Reassemble other components.
4) test run a cycle while to dish washer is out, so you can look in the side to make sure that it is dry underneath.
5) you should be good to go for several years.