Something cooked my TCM (3000MH Allison Transmission, No Display, No Crank, No Start)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- Here is the link to Part 2 of 3 • What else got cooked i...
Join us as we fix a no start, no transmission display (push button) on a 2001 American Tradition 8.3 Cummins ISC with a 3000MH Allison transmission, while underground! We keep the RV in a limestone mine for the winter and something happened to my transmission control module while it was there.
Video mentioned where a bad ground can actually cause high amperage • Fuel Pump Relay Problem
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UPDATE PLEASE READ!!!: I have two different disconnect switches, one for the house batteries and one for the powertrain. The mine where it is stored, does not care, and still REQUIRES the battery cables to be disconnected. ALL OF THEM. This year I only disconnected the negatives to make it easy for them, in case they needed to move it. 😒😒
Also, the RV has only been there for a month (a lot of you mentioned moisture and corrosion, but this was not the case either), batteries are only 2 years old and were fully charged when I left it. Many of you suggested weak or dead batteries. This was not the case. That doesn't rule out them jump starting though. Maybe if one or more of those grounds were not connected is very possible they thought that it needed a jump, if it didn't start. Many of you suggested they may have jumped it with 24 volts. This is a very real possibility. Remember, other circuits are not working too! It is NOT just a blown TCM capacitor!
Finally, my RV is NOT a CAN system. The gauges are stand alone and the oil and coolant temp gauges in particular simply have a power, ground and sending unit wire, with separate sending units, that goes to each of them. The oil pressure sensor I showed in the diagram is for the ECM, NOT the gauge, sorry I didn't make that clear. I showed that sensor to show you guys that I was confident I didn't have an oil pressure problem because the ECM would have set some warning lights and possibly even shut down the engine.
That's all for now. You guys are awesome! I learned a lot from the comments, thank you!
Yes!! It takes 2 regular batteries to fire up a diesel. My dad has 2 catapiller( spell) batteries connected on his. No one cares if RV theirs or not.. you have lot batteries in yours that I never seen.. I’m still old school!
Since pcm/ecm been added to rvs, wire may fell behind the batteries, it must reach certain voltage for anything work otherwise, zero voltage?? Like your voltage reference of 5 volts... I’m only guessing here.
Hello SD and thank you for sharing all your knowledge to the people that needed or interested in.Inrelevant question with this video but i thought if i comment on a new video of yours you might see it and reply if you have time. I believe i have a bad coil pack in my Hyundai tucson 2008 2l 4 cylinder engine which gives me a p0304 misfire for a while now.All new spark plugs and cables and i tried the arc quality of the coil pack with your test light trick and compare to the other 3 the one that is giving me misfire seems to be a little weaker like 1/4 of an inch lower arc and maybe inconsistent.Can that be enough to cause misfire?
Then call MSHA and get a final answer!
Paul I hv a question in the grander scheme of things doesn't mean much, but why can we read resistance in plug wires, but multi meter will never show continuity meaning buzzer on multimeter
@@charlesmecum5009: Continuity mode in DMM will only beep when ohms less than a certain threshold. e.g. say 30 ohms is threshold on your DMM, then no beep if plugwire ohms greater than 30, but beeps all day at 30 or less. Check spec sheet of your DMM for continuity mode ohms threshold.
You should ask them if you could fit Isolator rather than keep hoping all those grounds.
I also have first hand experiance of grounds being missed.
Result = That power will find a route to ground through something.
And its generaly a mess when it does. Good work DAN.
Lol Paul
I think you are bang on with the idea of reverse polarity with a jump pack. Was the first thing that came to mind for me
I agree with the idea that the ground was loose or not completely installed. CEMF can be very damaging when it doesn't have anywhere to go Happy to see you got it fixed up.
thanks for your help with the wiring diagram stuff too my friend. I am super thankful I didn't need it
I'm happy you didn't need it either. It was horrible 🤣😂. We get spoiled by these interactive color diagrams
I would relocate the 3 grounds. Make it so there is only 1 large cable to hook up.
good thought!
I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps one of those quick disconnects where the cables stay connected to a terminal that bolts to the battery.
@@ScannerDanner - I recommend proceeding one step further and installing a master ground disconnect switch, which would eliminate the need to disconnect all the batteries. I think a simple 8 X 11 sheet printed with instructions located in the battery compartment would suffice for someone to understand the utility of that arrangement; BUT, I suspect the facility personnel may not possess the appropriate training to understand the benefit of that set-up, as they do insist on unnecessarily disconnecting both positive and negative battery cables - stupid but oh well!
@@cwj9202 It'll be some dumb 'policy' that they have to completely disconnect. Written by someone that doesn't understand circuits.
@@cwj9202 Ha, they are not going to read a 8x11 piece of paper on what to do. Make it simple and easy and you will be fine.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I can't wait until late February or April. Problems are opportunities for more learning.
Looking forward to part 2,thank u mr Danner 👍
It won't be until April but I absolutely will be doing more on this
@@ScannerDanner
Scanner Danner
Im having a similar issue on my 1998 Discovery Fleetwood 37ft diesel. Its been parked for a year and half not hooked up to anything and put in a new battery to go start the diesel engine and I have 0 current to the transmission display and dashboard. I can start the generator and coach interior lights come on but I got nothing to the dash so no crank no start.
I will start with checking the BCM connection but is there anything else I can check to get it started?
I think something definitely happened that you’re not getting the full story to. Just too many things that don’t work now that worked when it was put away. Looking forward to the deep dive into troubleshooting. I’m relatively new to the channel (since about August of last year) but since then I’ve watched probably over 100 hours of your videos. I like how you get into such detail and leave no stone unturned to find a fault and how you show multiple different ways to find the problem because We all can’t have $10,000 scanners “at the moment”
my man, thank you! Glad you are here. I learn from you guys too and it is awesome! God bless
I really think it happened because the wrong polarity jump start, it's happened a couple times in my company because my co workers didn't pay attention. In last time they blowing up a capacitor on Cummins PCM. Thanks Paul to sharing your experience with us.
Make a separate positive and negative jump point in the bay. No one needs to remove terminals or mess with your leads. They may have left the ecu powers and grounds connected, and jumped the battery cable only? Electricity finds its way through the ecu to the drained batteries it is connected too. The battery sucks power through the ecu.. Nice to know the ecus are plug and play! Thanks as always for teaching, I have learnt loads from you over the years!
Mine policy, doesn't matter that I have cut off switches already. Cables must be removed smh
Regretable. "I left a note." It's a very hard pill to swallow no doubt. What did I learn? Get a storage facility and have my customers sign their rights away in order to use it. You are top notch Paul. Taking the high road......again.
Sorry to hear about this Paul😐 I hate it when people mess with my stuff and that's the very reason why! God bless you brotha!💯
i like this, it's like a field trip.
exactly lol 100 bill says they temporarily connected the cable and cranked and jumped while still have a loosey cable...or more. 80-90% of my service call work has been a loose connection and / or a ground wiggle test on ford was a real thing. still is !
Rodent damage led to bare wire shorting during idling. Just a thought. Thanks for all you do for us.
Nice to have a place to keep your RV safe and out wether
it was nice, but last year someone stole about 85 gallons of fuel from my tanks and this year, well, you see what happened. Not sure I will be going back
Personal experience with this and I was told this by the Allison shop that fixed it. Trying to start a coach with a low battery will fry the TCM's on these Allison's. $1500 lesson learned.
As a truck driver I have made a few deliveries in the mine in Missouri. Yes very true about the big exhaust fans you don’t smell anything or at least I didn’t
I like this type of storytelling videos. Thanks for the great camera work! Cheers
I'm glad you liked what Caleb and I considered not so great a video! Seems Caleb and I were wrong lol
@@ScannerDanner Yeah. I watched 100% up to the end! Waiting for spring updates fixing RV.
God Bless!
For non commercial diesel guys, commercial air brakes fail engaged. When you lose pressure, the brakes engage. Air pressure pulls the shoes off of the drum. That’s why you have the alarm. To let you know you have lost pressure and to let you know when you have enough pressure to disengage the brakes.
I agree with lots comments here, personally don’t trust anyone messing with my Camper, as my dad did with his RV, insulate and combine all negative onto one post, so have one cable to disconnect..I’ve never seen that many batteries in your RV. As I recalled, wet batteries my dad had always dried, always had to carry distilled water cause batteries kept overheating. Alternators that time has capacitors kept raising the voltage, repaired the alternator components few times for him. I have 3 rebuilt alternators in my garage ready in case my dad screams get my butt out where he is to replace them... my opinion possibly someone cross jump and shorted something like you said. Could have spiked the alternator components. ( like cranking over not thinking they screwed up spiking backwards if you guys catch my meaning)
I’ve seen this before in the vessel industry! It’s definitely a charge pack mishap. All of the dozens of computers have a diode built in to protect them. Diodes are one-way valves for electrical current flow. They are installed backward so they are turned off all the time, except when battery cables or jumper cables are reversed. Reverse polarity puts the diodes in the circuit so they are turned on and act like a short circuit
Scanner, Paul, Dan, same thing all synonymous with ScannerDanner.
Well Paul (DAN ) this was definitely a different type of video. Nice change of pace. Hope you continues to in the spring. Thanks for sharing buddy and stay safe and well Artie 👍 Paul I doubt you will ever find out. Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and soon it will just be a memory,
Makes me happy when you fix something!
About your issue: those lithium capacitors are well known for failure in AC ripple. They are very strong and long-lasting otherwise. That's why they are used in automotive. My advice: put an oscilloscope on the output of the alternator and see what's the ripple. There might be the explanation for this stupid fault. And I didn't see any ESD diodes on the inputs of the TCM module. Maybe they are there but didn't appear in the images. However a small ripple will destroy the capacitor without triggering a ESD diode.
Hope to see you happier and more confident in the next video!
Tantalum is what I mean by lithium... my bad.
I'm with you on this possibility, but what tells me otherwise is the oil psi gauge is now not working and also the house batteries not being charged by the alternator. I also am pretty sure I am going to find other things not working as they should, but I'll need it back home first to confirm.
@@ScannerDanner I insist on my idea to the end: measure ripple at the module pins and even inside the module if you can. It might be a good start.
@@danielmusat597 of course, I will do that before I bring it home, but I smell some b.s. from the people in the mine for sure
@@ScannerDanner do they know who you are? Not to be a snob about it, but seriously asking if they know what you do or not?
I bet you're going to hear from someone there soon. :)
If the ground was bouncing enough to cause that damage you’d see scorching or pitting in the ground as well. I like the other suggestions of making it all one connection at some point in the future too.
Hi Paul, isn't that a piss off that they didn't tell you the truth about what happened.
Pretty cool storage area. I liked watching the video, roadtrip diag.
I ran into something similar where it let the smoke out of a module. But mine was associated with positive cable. I guess it wouldn't matter if it's negative or positive connections. Looking forward to your follow up in the spring. Stay safe.
i was praying with you as you were silently praying
and it worked. Thank GOD
Thank you for your video on dig information video I've been trying to become a better technician and I've been through the votect and dealership training and after all those I still didnt really understand how to put the training into play with the real world issue. But I was laking some understand just wanted to say thank Paul for the extra knolage u put in it. Your video were a blessing for me to learn more and I can also share the same with others keep the faith my friends
este tipo me cae muy bien, se me hace muy buena persona. que mal lo que le paso con su camión. maestro mil gracias por su enseñanza.
Paul, at 12:16 you see on the TCM data tag the TID 3. Make sure your old TCM also has the same TID number. I don’t remember all the details about it, I just remember it’s important.
Wow! Plug and play module. No programming, no security access required, no paying extortianate downoad fees. Just like the old days Paul..😊😊😊
I'm betting they killed the battery because someone left something on with the batteries connected (they were low to start with from sitting all this time, and/or your alternator failed), and they screwed up hooking up the jumper cables or pack. Happens alot in the auto auction world.
Pretty cool storage place though! Constant temp and humidity I would think. I've seen a TH-cam trucking channel that had to drive in there before, if this is the same one. Glad you got it fixed! Today I had TWO Napa brake caliper failures one after the other - one in the wife's '93 940, and another in a customer's '06 Xterra. The 940 made it 2 years, 2 weeks, while the Nissan made it about a year and a half. The Xterra was run until the pistons popped out of the caliper! All that's left of the pad is tinfoil thickness of what's left of the backing plate. The pistons became the friction material! INSANE! Cardone remans - figures. Anyway, glad you filmed the drive in - that was cool!!
Yeah , Just want to know for your own piece of mind , To have a electrical problem and no answer and have to hook up a "new" Module without knowing why could be a cause of anxiety , High anxiety ! Good guys finish last it seems ! Can't wait to see the upcoming ending , no gauge , charging system irregularities 2020 continues !
Maybe rerouting that additional grounds to chassis ground will fault proof. After that only one ground wire needs to be connected to start engine.
Awesome hunch there Paul. 👌🏻
You're right, all the other things not working shows something suspicious. Folk make mistakes, they should just hold their hands up to it.
Prime reason to not let people touch your stuff.
Imagine the expense to tow or get a mechanic there to fix the issue, I wouldn't trust my car to that company, glad you kinda solve it!
Love all your videos Paul 👍👍👍
Very nice intro. Thanks Dan
lol, thanks
I tend to agree with all who have suggested a weak intermittent ground as you also said. It's also possible an incorrectly connected jump pack or a 24V pack on a 12V system could also cause this. In the marine world we use battery disconnects and also put the heaviest load cable (main start) on the battery stud first to eliminate any connection points between the battery lead and the main cable. The stud it's self where leaded in can be a resistance. I found that out with the modern resistance battery testers.
@1:37 not always. I can actually understand why they make you disconnect both battery cables as a condition of letting you park the RV. Had a Chevy truck around a year ago that had a battery drain on it that I was able to solve VERY quickly thanks to information that the customer provided. They said that they’d been having the problem out of the truck for a while, and they said that they had to disconnect the positive battery cable in order for the battery to stay charged. If they unhooked just the negative battery cable, the battery would go dead in less than 6 hours, just like if you left the battery fully connected, but unhooking just the positive battery cable would keep the battery charged. Well, when I got it in the shop, I looked at the positive battery cable, and it was one of those old side post batteries that had 2 positive battery cables stacked on top, or in the case of a side post battery, beside each other. Seeing this, I removed the positive battery “cable” and split the 2 positive cables apart. I found some green crud built up between the two of them, so I cleaned it off the cables, pulled the truck outside, and let it sit for over 8 hours. The truck cranked and ran the first time I tried it after cleaning the cables. I’d never seen anything like that happen before, and odds are I’ll never see it again. The only thing I can figure might’ve happened in that situation is that the 2 positive battery cables, because they had green crud built up between them, had enough charge dis-similarity between them that it was able to make a complete circuit through just the positive battery cable connection. I suspect that the RV parking space people have seen something similar happen before as well, and they put this policy in place as a countermeasure.
3:30 that is a tantalum capacitor when they fail they usually fail short circuit. They can fail from old age but based on the symptoms a transient voltage (voltage spike) likely caused that cap to fail. You can tell it's a tantalum because of it's yellowish case and polarity marking. The positive side is marked where it's common on electrolytic caps to mark the negative side.
An electrolytic capacitors maximum rated voltage can be exceeded brief for period of time without issue a tantalum can immediately fail if it's max rated voltage is exceeded even for an instant (like a voltage spike).
They were in a hurry didn't fully tighten the nut on the terminal and repetitive arcing did the rest.
Great Video Paul ! I really enjoyed watching. 👍
You should try cranking a 53’ trailer down in the mines in Kansas and Missouri; the national seed depository is down there and it’s very easy to get lost in them.
Hi, Paul, The component that was burnt is a SMD Tantalum Electrolytic Capacitor which we know about 1/100,000 chance that it will develop short circuit spontaneously in the field and burn itself and the PCB, even if there are no over voltage or temperature.
The intermittent on and off of unconnected ground wires and the battery's low resistance may increase the failure probability. So I think it is only a bad luck situation.
If I had to deal with that type of Battery Disconnect issue, I would install a couple of Marine Type or Industrial Type of Battery Disconnect Switches, that would allow the batteries to be disconnected by turning the mechanical switch, and avoid any cable disconnection at the batteries. These are usually installed on the POSITIVE CABLE with any multiple wires connected at the switch and ONLY a single positive cable to the battery. It would also be good to install a Negative Buss Bar to connect all grounds to with only 1 cable to the Negative Battery Terminal as well. That eliminates multiple connections at the battery that could be hooked up wrong or missed AND can generate corrosion by being connected to a LEAD post with a steel stud and nut. Cole Hearse makes several models for Boats and Large Diesel Trucks and Busses. They even have a warning like "DO NOT TURN OFF WITH ENGINE RUNNING" to protect the alternator and charging system. A bad connection to an alternator can cause severe voltage spikes. With proper switches installed, turn them on and leave them on through the summer while the vehicle is being used, the OFF when leaving the vehicle in storage. You also have the benefit of easily and quickly cutting out either the house battery or vehicle battery without the need of tools, should there ever be a problem with one of the systems, like a welded Starter Solenoid. Also good for killing power to either system for trouble shooting or repair. (Starter replacement.) I have had several Boats and Travel Trailers and have ALWAYS installed Battery Disconnects. Being an Aircraft Maintenance Engineer, we are used to Aircraft Systems which have a Master Switch, which connects the Battery, or each Battery to the main BUSS Bar in the system. Aircraft batteries are always connected and disconnected with that solenoid, by the MASTER SWITCH in the cockpit and some systems have a large Diode that can take alternator output around the solenoid to prevent field collapse voltage spikes by sending it to the battery. This could save you a LOT of problems in years to come. It certainly makes it easy for a novice to use safely.
Looking forward to the next update
I really believe your right about the battery
I have seen other things on diesel pushers get cooked same way
Hey Paul, I have an ‘01 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with the same Cummins ISC and Allison. Mine has an Intellitec system that controls which batteries are being charged by the alternator. I believe it monitors voltage directly from the battery banks and once the chassis batteries reach 13.5v, then and only then will it switch to charge the house bank. I mention this because if you did indeed have a surge or a short of some kind, it could easily have fried the Intellitec system as well as the TCM. Something to check if you have one on board.
I also lean toward a 24v jumper box or a reverse polarity jumper. I’ve made that mistake once in a dark garage and fried the main fuse and several other random fuses on a late model Toyota Tundra. I had to check every fuse in both fuse boxes to finally fix all the weird issues.
Best of luck and take care.
Good info! Thank you.
I had to deal with Mickey-Mousy diagrams like this before,it is a joke.
Knowledge and experience is all you got now.
Hi Paul! Connect earth via power switch. Like a military car. Then there is no need to tighten the wires.
I would say a group of mice were out partying and might of dropped a large can of tuna across the battery...nope, ie think you pegged it... looking forward to more videos in the spring of the RV. Hilarious movie with same name, RV.
I have several ground leads on my boat. Going to zip tie them after this video. I painted the top of my batteries with white paint on positive in case someone tried to hook them up wrong. At least the odd color would make them stop and think. Hopefully.
Good use for a decommissioned mine. Sucks to have stuff like that happen when its in storage. Nice RV for traveling in.
Right? I'm counting my blessings my friend
It would be awesome to see a tcm repair video! Please please please!
Hind sight. The note on the cable was my first thought. I would’ve pointed the finger at myself. Those people don’t know my rig. Oh well, live and learn. Like you said, lots of moister. Perfect conditions for electrical problems.
Whatta cool place to keep your RV😉
Nothing like this in New Zealand storage facilities
Hey PAUL😃. Thanks for the video. New sub and learning so much. Not as fearful of auto electric testing and diagnosis now.
Awesome! Welcome
I was waiting for that Green Man guy to pop out one of the corridors.
😂 oh he was there, but I didn't film my first visit
I would bet they checked and disconnected everything without notifying you. Mines are really sticky about sparks, detonations, even radio coms that are not authorized. I would bet they put a ground on the wrong post or disabled a ground on one of the batteries leaving a floating ground. Probably started the vehicle and it detected as a result under voltage so the charging system worked overtime to fix the offset. It's hard to prove as you've indicated. My experience with mines is they use connectors / quick connectors that fit in only one manner. Makes situations super easy to figure out, especially in low light.
Irv2 is a great forum for info on your coach. And I would look to whoever the chassis belongs to for your instrument wiring as well.
My van is a 95 Chevy Astro van I put a new starter in it today it was idling rough with vibrations and a little jolt and I figured that it was electrical issue because the lights were flickering inside and out only at idle when driving it rides just fine,after the starter replacement which I checked all my connections and made sure everything was connected right my van just died on me once I touched the wire that goes to the top of the alternator, however the van does start but it will die in a matter of minutes and the voltage never goes up and it never reads going down, as soon as it dies I can start it back up all of my electrical is working inside the van when the vehicle turns off I noticed that my lights were dimdoing good get some healthy corners and get laid in the right direction on what to check for
Did it do this before you put the starter in? If not, go over what you did
@@ScannerDanner it wasn't shutting off like it is now but it has been vibrating and pulsating
You need a motion activated battery compartment cam aimed right at that terminal. They had to have left those smaller grounds off.
If it happens again and they are the culprit give them the video along with a big bill!
Well I noticed the oil pressure gauge not only doesn't work it wasn't reading 0 pressure either.. makes me think the gauge itself is not powering up.. I'm liking the theory about the jump pack. Most non mechanical people's first thought is "if it don't start, jump it"..
Thanks for the great videos, man!
Danner paul scanner ok 👌🏻 . That is a nice RV you have and hope some one tells the truth . I believe that they didn't hook them up right and it caused the short . As you said things don't like being unplug and plugged in repeatedly .
This is the ultimate teaser trailer! Not fair.
We will never know the truth. It's not like I'm holding out on you 😉
I'll troubleshoot those other issues in the spring for you guys
I've seen a lot of failures on the allision 1000 series TCMs, dont really deal to much with the 3000/4000 series. I was in a truck when one died, went into reverse, backed up, went to drive and it slammed into gear and would not shift. TCM dead. Allision wiring diagrams do suck, and then the truck builder puts stuff anywhere they please and change some wires. I'm with you on they didn't get the all the grounds on, or was loose and ground was floating. I would tape them small wires to the large cable to they are there when the cable gets dropped on.
Hey man I messaged you last night about my van not starting 95 Astro,it's because of your earlier video with a 95 Astro and fuel pump related issues that I now know where the fuel pump switch is under the hood and where the grounds go on the driver's side!! You are very good at what you do,!! Anyway I discovered that my van is not getting any power going to the alternator in order to charge my battery to stay running I'm curious if there's anything that I can test for in these locations to leave me in the right direction maybe an ignition switch or a bad wire although I've checked for wires and everything seems intact
That's a tantalum capacitor. The band and the beveled edge indicates the positive side of the unit (it also has the + sign). Tantalum capacitors cannot tolerate reverse current flow. The fact that the burn mark exists on the negative side of the capacitor shows that reverse current came in and burned it out. They must have hooked up a jump pack backwards. Datasheets show that those capacitors are designed to tolerate temporary voltage spikes, but not reverse current (KEMET electronic components as the manufacturer).
That's why I initially thought it was a PIV, but then, it would have been black.
Would also be a good idea to check alternator ripple, those caps are not tolerant to ac ripple.
Hi Paul,
I have my class A in my back yard, on blocks for the winter. If you have no room, Dont leave it where other people will put their hands on it, I am paranoid about anyone touching mine. Dan in st. Catharines, ont.
Liked before even watched it (laughs ) ..The 26 next minutes of my evening is now reserved.See ya later mister D , and C ;) Stefan
Wait a minute Paul. Are you sure they weren't just back flushing the electrons in your batteries to make them last longer? They say anything that doesn't survive that needed to be replaced anyway. 😂🤣😂
In all seriousness I'm sorry that happened to you brother. Definitely agree something about the situation doesn't add up. I wonder if you could follow the traces on the board from the burnt component to the TCM connector pins? Perhaps it would help piece the story together? Look forward to seeing more about it. Hope you and yours are well, thanks for all you do!
Perhaps a reverse jumper hook up damaged the alternator rectifier which allowed AC into the system which damaged a couple things after a period of idling, since they said it did drive initially, and now you have an odd reading on the charge indicator.
If that was the case, I'd have smoked the new module i think. I had it idling for at least 20 minutes. I believe my alternator is fine but I'm definitely going to check it! Thanks for the comment
For what it's worth, I have see this issue with Allison TCMs often. Not sure if it was because it got jumped started incorrectly or just poor quality contorl but whatever the reason I myself have done more than a few replacements of this TCM.
Zip Tie those grounds together so they don't forget one.
And post a battery wiring diagram at the battery
Wow I believe that’s exactly what happened to the TCM .. the way you reached into the harness for 2 of the grounds they probably never connected them... Why don’t you just connect the 3 grounds into one and put a visible tag maybe yellow to make it easier to keep these issue from happening again.. it’s pretty dark down there and they do thinks in a rush and screw up... there not going to tell you they did something wrong.. you lead the guy into telling you what you wanted to hear , so he’s going to give you the correct answer.. thanks looking forward to the spring... oh yeah I know the feeling cause I’m the guy years back when you were first selling your online book and I felt the same way you do , about taking you to small claims court for me not being able to print pages from the manual after you said we were allow to , so I had to purchase your book ! Lol... but your to good of a teacher and it wasn’t much money Lol.. just was upset cause like you , i felt lied to...Still love your videos and find them to be educational and blast ...😂🤣 man that was creepy !
@ScannerDanner, That yellow blown component is a tantalum capacitor. They are notorious for shorting out.
Good info thanks! What leads me to believe it wasn't just a cap blowing out is the other issues I now have too
Looks like a tunnel scene from Last of Us. Shudder.
Love the vids Mr Dan(ner)!
Stay gold.
They did film a horror movie in there. Not sure which one lol
A thought for the future is put master switches on both positive and negative sides make it dummy proof.
yo scannerdanner, thanks for the videos! you have thought me alot brother
I Had a car there years ago Found a Nice Scratch on the fender. Asked about it. they said they are not Responsible For It. told me i dont have to use their place anymore, we have a waiting list. pretty sure it was a worker looking to see what motor was in it.
they do have a waiting list and they don't really care from what it seems
Class “A’s that’s what I wore in the army lol
Tantalums tend to blow on their own just from many years of use, but they are especially sensitive to reverse polarity, over voltage and transients. So whether it was the mine workers' fault or not could honestly go either way.
The oil gauge and charging fault you had sound a little too perfect to be just a coincidence though. My money is on them using either a 24V booster or reversing the leads when boosting.
when batterys are low the charging system peak high and those capacitors doesn't like that they are knows to fails , and you have a clue with the oil pressure gage and your charging system for the coach battery staying in the 12.3 zone , anyway you will find the problem in spring ,i have no doubt about it Paul !
Batteries where not low, it was only there a month with the batteries disconnected.
All good thoughts though my friend.
The 12.3 I mentioned was after running it for 20 minutes with all the lights on inside. Probably at least 15 amps of current.
Rv shop did the same thing to my cousins Rv and his was cooked from them jump starting it! His module was mounted on top of the the engine
Dear Mr. Paul, please keep the old TCM module because I believe (I am not sure) that the burned part you showed looks like an embedded relay or capacitor which can be replaced, maybe the nearby ground cable you showed that was barely touching the ground post and with vibration it drives the burned capacitor or relay to over work or pulsate, heated and melt. I believe that your state Pennsylvania is what they called the Nation's Capital of Electrical and Electronics manufacturing, so it is no wonder to search for many Electronic Gurus (sometimes only a Hobby professionals) who could cheaply replace the burned part and I believe they probably have a sort of diagnostic equipment that could test the integrity of the board. Just FYI. Enjoy your Heaven. John Jack Kaplanian from Jordan / Middle East.
Hey @ScannerDanner,
Given that they always want the batteries to be physically disconnected and no switches, have you considered just having a Big o'l Anderson plug bolted to the Battery cage frame, and all that needs to be done is to Plug / unplug the main chassis cables into that plug on the battery?
You could use either a standard SB Series for Both pos and Neg, Or the individual Power Pole's and do it just on the negative side.
That should fill the "Battery Cable disconnection requirement" by the mine provided the Disconnect plug is kept very close to the negative terminal, and should essentially idiot Proof things.
To go further, Some of the Anderson plugs (eg SBX / SBE / SBO series) also have auxiliary contacts with a "Make last, Break First" setup, You could tie that to an interlock / isolator.....
If the plug isn't sufficiently seated, power is denied (maybe with an appropriately placed Idiot light).
I dont think I'm ever taking it back there
@@ScannerDanner Yeh I agree, but Even if you don't go back there, why not do it anyway? Both for yourself, and where ever you store it next?
Should help to guard from future incidents.
Might also be worth adding a dedicated jump plug as well to use if you need to jump start the unit itself or something from it. Said plug could also be used for a battery maintainer as well via an adapter or a second smaller one next to it.
If you really wanted to, you could add some Protections or smarts to that plug to idiot proof it.
(ie Voltage and Polarity checking before a contactor will close).
Paul, I wouldn't be a nice person about this!!!!
too much isn't adding up, plus y2k+ bad capacitor plague. then coach batteries voltage low and alternator charge rate off?
I'd be thinking more like many module/device failure due to aging and high humidity storage moisture ingress.(moisture ingress has killed capacitors from day one)
there's multiple reasons low humidity is desired, especially in the salty rust belt, storage and any areas that deal with wide temperature swings (poorly insulated and rapidly heated after cooling)
Moisture could be the cause. Condensation when temp drops below the dew point can be really hard on circuit boards, and vehicles that sit for months can have problems. Or maybe the surge happened right when they reconnected the ground. Or maybe there's a problem with the voltage regulator frying everything. Good thought about the coach batteries, probably should reconnect all before moving. We should start calling you 'Coach', ha ha.
Moisture is low in the winter months and it was only there a month. This wasn't a moisture thing 😉
If I remember right, your RV is a freightliner chassis, which should have a electronic instrument cluster controlled by a vehicle control module, basically an interface module, because various engines/transmissions could be fitted to the same chassis. Which that VCM would get the oil pressure signal from the Cummins ECU. I would look into that. being a 2001, I think its just on the cusp of when freightliner started doing it like that. So I can't guarantee that is how yours is done.
No sir. It is a Spartan chassis and those are basic gauges. It definitely has a separate sending unit for the gauge for oil psi and for the engine temp.
@@ScannerDanner well just ignore me then haha
I am curious if they have any ongoing complaints against the company for this type of stuff. Might want to check if you haven't already. Bought your book and love it. Thank you Paul. SD.
I work on boats at a marina. Off season, some batteries are missing. Have seen guys just clip their jump pak to the unconnected cables for a quick start or to raise an outboard. Never even bother to connect the batteries at all. If they tried this, it might start and move your coach. They then left to move the other coach. If the jump pak is jarred, touches metal, or is reversed to move yours back, sparks will fly and modules may fry. Just an hypotheses. Mike B Ttown
That's a good one for sure. Thank you!
On the older american eagle traditionally the oil pressure has its own sensor above the oil cooler depending on which cummins engine you got...the cummins ecu does not have anything to due with the dash oil pressure gauge. There also was a bulletin where cummins did away with the 5vref oil pressure sensor and went to a switch. If you need any information please let me know
Awesome thank you! And yes, the dash oil psi gauge is just that. A gauge, a sending unit, and wiring (power, ground, signal)
I'll be checking for blown fuses in more detail when I get it home before anything else
@9:06 Chance is positive - There is a chance of you finding and fixing the fault.
Risk is negative - There is a risk they cooked the modules
I'd put my money on them either not hooking up one or more of the grounds or they didn't tightened them up and a loose connection can cause the amp draw to greatly increase. Our 2003 39' Newmar DSDP is resting comfortably in the 24x50' polebuilding garage we had built in our back yard in 2016. Have you looked for enclosed single unit storage.(TH-cam channel "RV jedeye" lives in Wisconsin and stores his in one.)
P.S. Our Newmar only charges the house batteries from the alternator after the chassis batteries have been charged enough. If your chassis were low that might take a little while, If yours works like ours. We have the exact same trans in our coach, I would love to see a repair video on that TCM. Good luck Paul.
We will be doing exactly that. Keith Perkins would be doing the repair and is going to film it and I will be sharing it with you guys.
Paul, those multilayer caps are notorious for internal shorts as a function of physical expansion and contraction. 50/50 shot it wasn't the miner.
Agree
I would have to say that they didn't hook all the small grounds up. I believe that Allison controller is grounded separately on small eyelets. I would have to say it was ground hunting and made its own and burned it up. If eyelets were laying you would have burn marks on them
In the future, will they accept a battery disconnect switch? This could eliminate physical disconnecting of the battery terminals, eliminating a future screw up. We my never know what happened exactly. I a good note, the bus is drive-able now. Looking forward to the spring follow up video. Thanks for sharing.
I feel the frustration of not knowing what happened Paul. Could you fit a ‘master switch’ close to the batteries so that they can just turn that on and off as an alternative to disconnecting them. Easier for everyone too? Perhaps it won’t fit with their rules?? It would obviously need to be one that can handle the current. Things like buses and fuel tanker trucks have these devices here in the U.K. I’m sure you can find something similar if it’s an option for you.