3x Part Strength Without Slicer Settings | Design for Mass Production 3D Printing
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- Try Shapr3D (Use Code "Slant3d" for 10% OFF): www.shapr3d.co...
In this episode of Design for Mass Production 3D Printing, we tackle a common challenge: preventing rods from breaking. Forget tweaking slicer settings; we're focusing on enhancing your designs directly. Learn how to strategically increase wall thickness and incorporate specific patterns like ribs and holes to reinforce your 3D printed parts effectively. This guide is perfect for 3D printing designers and professionals looking to improve the durability and reliability of their prints. Whether you're designing functional parts or artistic pieces, these techniques will help ensure your creations stand the test of time and use.
#3dprinting #3dprintingcommunity #designfor3dprinting #cad #shapr3d #ad
🔗 OTHER IMPORTANT LINKS 🔗
Get a Quote for Your Production Project: www.slant3d.com/
Slant 3D Etsy Plugin: www.slant3d.co...
Connect to Our Print Farm: www.slant3d.co...
Get Our STL's: www.angled.xyz/
Get Affordable High-Quality Filament: www.tangledfil...
Our Favorite Products: www.amazon.com...
About Slant 3D
🏭 High-Volume 3D Printing: Scalability Meets Flexibility
Slant 3D's Large-Scale 3D Print Farms utilize 1000's of FDM 3D printers working 24/7 to offer limitless scalability and unparalleled flexibility. Whether it's 100 or 100,000 parts, our system can handle it reliably, while still allowing for real-time design updates, ensuring products evolve with the times. This adaptability is key in today's fast-paced world.
🌿 Sustainable Manufacturing: Eco-Friendly Efficiency
Embrace a system that drastically reduces carbon emissions by eliminating carbon-intensive steps in the supply chain, such as global shipping and warehousing. Our approach minimizes this footprint, offering a more sustainable manufacturing option.
⚙️ Digital Warehouses: Parts On-Demand
Think of print farms as a "Digital Warehouse", meaning we can store your parts digitally on a server rather than physically on a shelf. parts are available on-demand, reducing the need for extensive physical inventory.
Produced by Slant Media
As an Amazon Associate, I earn commission from qualifying purchases.
You said it yourself: this is a hack.
Your intent is to specify a minimum wall thickness that must be filled, and a center surface that either may be filled or should be filled at x% infill to some spec. Adding circles isn’t specifying that, it’s tricking most known slicers into doing that.
CAD needs to catch up. These are part design standards, not machine dependent manufacturing techniques or optimizations. This info needs to be in the CAD model and CAD software needs to implement these settings that are in slicers.
You actually can have your CAD model tell the slicer where to put different settings: using modifier meshes. I used to do hacks like this-and got quite good at it-but once Slic3r added modifiers I threw all this nonsense overboard. PrusaSlicer, Orca, etc. have all inherited this ability.
@@joshcarter-com how do you create a modifier mesh in CAD, though?
@@thoperSought The same way you create any mesh.
@@thoperSought In CAD, when you’re making your part, make a body that represents the volume(s) which need different settings. Export as a separate STL. Then in the slicer right-click your part, select Add Modifier > Load, then select the modifier STL you had exported. Then in the slicer’s part list you can select the modifier and add any custom settings you want.
@@joshcarter-com that makes sense, thanks!!
Another trick for vertical pegs that snap off at the base because they are essentially printed on the top layer, add a smaller cylinder hole in the center of the peg that is deeper than the top layer. You can do this in CAD or the slicer. You can even hide the cylinder inside the peg as well. The slicer will start printing the peg below the surface of the model and add extra strength, works great even down to 2mm small pegs.
Just add a square hole through the part, then print square sticks to fill the hole with layer lines in longitude direction. 3D Bones. Won't snap on layer lines. Add a bit of glue for even stronger layers.
Sounds like a nice trick for sharing models that need some extra strength in critical places that don't require users to tinker with print settings, just plop down stl and print
If you want optimal results from 3D printing you need to change print settings or at least be comfortable doing it. It isn’t difficult either.
I used this approach a long time ago with printed bolts, modelling the head as basically a mostly fused nut on continued thread rather than a solid region, so that it wouldn't tend to break where the head met the threaded shaft. It worked great.
This hack works .. but i feel it being wrong.
Wall thickness should be just one of dimensions/specs of part, that should be passed on to said mass manufacturing.
If it wasn't being passed, then it's problem of communication between designer/engineering and manufacturer. It shouldn't need to be hacked around. Also i suspect that normal sliced thicker walls in slicer should result in even stronger walls, and would print even faster, due continous simple movements instead of micro-wavy ones.
I really appreciate these videos! They always challenge me to think. It makes sense to design parts that are independent of slicer settings when feasible. Less to remember or document.
This is resonating with me, because at my work (a delivery company) right now we're having a lot of problems with needing to communicate special exemptions to procedures for specific clients. I keep pushing to try and find ways to just encode those exemptions in to the normal processes.
This file design is a great example of what I *want* to have happen - now the designer doesn't need to communicate with the manufacturer at all, and the part still ends up as strong as needed.
As others have mentioned, the extra work is unlikely to be worth it when the designer and the manufacturer are the same person -ie, the average hobby printor - but that's not the point of this. Alas, most of those other comments seem to have missed that detail.
Why is not communicating with the manufacturer a good thing? If you can’t tell your manufacturer that you need this part printed with certain settings then something is very wrong, either with your company or theirs.
@@conorstewart2214 It's a matter of automation. As soon as you have to get a trained human being involved, the cost goes way up. What we *really* need is a 3MF specification update that makes these sorts of specifications consistent across slicers.
@@conorstewart2214 Of course it's a good thing, but eliminating opportunities for miscommunication is an even better thing.
This caused me to rethink a design I came up with a while back. This general approach to thinking about things a different way is valuable. People might want to put more energy into what good they could get out of it rather than shitting on it as though the idea was conceived just to piss them off. I doubt that it was.
excellent tip! also if you do a similar thing but make your holes 3mm you can slide 3mm steel rod in to it and she stiffens up like no pure plastic part could dream of!
If you use a 2.5mm hole, and use a drill to spin it into the whole, you will get a much stronger unit. It will melt the Z lines together. But you need to cut off the end.
Also a cheap source of rods is Tig welding rods.
That's awesome. Maybe you should make a design rules list for 3d printing (if you haven't already), like fillets on the XY axes rather than sharp corners, chamfers at 45 on Z, try to print on 45 degrees to eliminate supports etc
This is a very useful technique that I'm surprised isn't used more widely. Especially when you only want to strengthen specific regions of a model but have the rest of it (non-load bearing) be thin. I think i first saw this used in the reprap project. Thanks for making these videos. I've gotten a number of extremely useful tips from them over the last few months. Keep up the good work. P.S. I ordered some parts through your API. Excellent print quality! Loved it.
@crazydeathcar correct, you can do that now. This is like any technique that is situationally useful, tho. It's good to know that it can be done and how to do it, for when those situations arise. Like when you can't control those slicer settings. I'm sure eventually these print farms will implement a way for the user to adjust slicer settings (to an extent), but until that happens, this is one workaround. Have a good one.
This really a hack to work around the lack integration between CAD software and Slicer software to designate multiple infill types (and/or densities) for different regions of a component during the design process. The hack is custom infill.
At some point CAD software will integrate, or allow plug-ins that enable designers to define multiple infills for multiple region(s) of a part. It will allow designing of supports for 3d-printing with the design, and allow "skinning" the outer surface with multiple texture patterns.
It's like CAD software is at a level of evolution where small walls the shape of doors have to be manually created, because the software does not have integrated door features. Similarly the concept of widows doesn't exist, so designers manual make cutouts in wall features.
Or we'll get a 3MF specification that doesn't leave it up to the slicer what to call the various parameters.
And if you don't mind the weight you can add nuts + bolt into the thing.
Found this a day after my PLA+ hose reel replacement handle snapped across the layer lines (after 3 years of use). I'll give some of this a try in my model before I reprint, and hopefully ill have another 3+ years of my reel
Hi!
I really appreciate your time to share such content.
I think the major problem is the "gap" between two printed layers. All these parts are braking exactly between the layers and not the filament material is braking. Even with adding more materials there is still the problem with how each layer is glued together. We have to find a way to print a rod or pipe in a way to stretch the printed material.
We have a way: Horizontally. :)
One day the slicers will be automatically adding holes among several layers and inject material in them and layer adhesion will no longer be a problem...
That would be awesome! Injecting heat stakes across layers where there is high stress should be totally achievable with existing hardware.
Probably not that easy especially if your print is tall but maybe can be repeated after certain number of layer lines tho that brings it back to almost the same problem again.
@@saadqadeer7807 "... that brings it back to almost the same problem again." Not if the injected "rebar" is staggered across different layers. It only has to go a few layers deep actually.
Slicers could do this now... just a matter of code.
@@4Fixerdave precisely
@@4Fixerdave my thoughts 💯
Perfect timing - I was just working on such a part. Thanks.
I get that the idea is to be able to 3d print and ship a part directly, but for those willing to take the extra step, layer lines need not be a weakness.
You can also make the holes in the hole pattern inside a part, basically a sleeve as mentioned in the video, and then inject glue into the holes.
Spray foam also makes a great filler and also functions like glue.
I testing the best material even carbon fiber nylon filament at high temperature with tube inside design to create a strong motor coupler but i came to the conclusion that you can only 3d print than add a resins and a bit of paint and you have something really strong !
I learn so many cool designs tricks from your channel.
Very interesting! I’m unlikely to use it in my personal hobby printing, but its an interesting technique, especially if you need just one region to be extra-strong but don’t want the weight/time/cost penalty in other places.
You mentioned solid infill briefly. I’ve been amazed by just how strong PLA (or most other plastics) are when printed solid. I made some PLA press-brake dies with 100% infill for bending metal in either a vise or my 20T hydraulic press and it’s surprising how much they can stand up to.
It wouldn’t likely be something you see come through your workflow, because I wouldn’t expect that plastic dies would be used in any sort of production - or would they? I suspect not, because if you were running through enough plastic dies to be worth sending the job to Slant3D I’d expect it would be more cost-effective to just have some metal ones made from metal with a CNC.
Are there any applications you see though, where the parts you made are used as consumables in production processes? If you do and haven’t already covered it, such uses might be interesting to your viewers.
Fantastic content as always, the knowledge you share is doing a lot towards helping 3D printing become a true production process!
I've been using this to strengthen holes without having to increase the perimeters or infill. If you cross-section Prusa parts you can see that they use this too to strengthen some of their parts as it creates internal perimeters. However, they use it more inside the parts instead of near the outer walls.
A very detailed demonstration👍
It's taking advantage of a side-effect of the slicer's behavior and it's possible to encounter slicers or versions of a slicer that do not behave as expected.
This is a very nice trick that I will certainly use. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge!
All slic3r derived slicers (Orca, Bambu Studio, Prusa) support modifier meshes. You can have a second object define volumes of the print that use different print parameters. Need more walls around a hole, just put a modifier cylinder around the hole and increase the wall count. Step files will let you import multiple bodies and ensure they all stay aligned.
Sooo..cad
Thanks, gonna give this a try.
Cool video. You probably want to put a link to that other channel somewhere in the description.
Great tip
Good to know. I definitely won’t be doing this when I print my own part
Your videos have stepped up my product design so much that... I'm ready to patent something! Do you have any advise in this area?
Great Video! Still waiting to see UK on your shipping page (lol)!
try setting the gap to 0.01, most slicers can still do it, and the walls will be practically solid
My trick, use a fat nozzle and print my walls at up to 4mm thick on a single wall
it'll run slower at that much size to be sure, but the print tome is about the same.
with PETG, I have no worries as to layer adhesion
Genio están increíbles los vídeos
Maybe put a link to the Tangled Testing channel in your description when you mention it in your video 🤷
Funny though, you know how there are programs that add texture to the outside wall? This bumps strength and rigidity. Have you ever heard of a program that could maintain the external geometry but add texture to the inside walls. Would be interesting.
Everyone seems to be saying the same thing, add more wall loops; can't say I entirely disagree, so while I do think it's neat that this works, add one to the pile, I guess 🤷🏿♀️
Many people in the comment say its a hack. But actually its called engineering. Design has many different "genre" this is actually called structural design. In many ways you can even see it, and it has to be aeathetic as well. Take a washing machine for example. washing machine. Those indents and ribs on the side is there for reason. Its reinforce the sheet metal, gives them rigidity. Sure its also looks cool, it has a style, and those styles are even changes by time by new trends. And there are many mabybexample that structural design became a part of aesthetic design. Or even inspired by.
You can use this trick to add more plastic around holes you want to thread.
In the tangled testing video do you go into the extra material and time needed for printing?
I hope the strength to weight ratios are included on the tangled testing video.
What would be stronger? A machined down solid piece of PLA to a rod shape? Or a solid infill 3d printed PLA rod of the same dimension?
Machined solid piece should be stronger. It is poured in one thick extrusion and extremely consistent.
Printed part is laid down in thin lines, there are small imperfections between lines and everything is bonded together with smaller strength, because you are adding molten filament into solidified chunk of plastic and they are not melted together that constantly.
good info
Then what about filling thise structures with a High strength material or fibers to improve strength even more? Just like rebar in concrete
What's the best way to print rods that have more than one outer diameter? Kinda like this -==-
Clever!
Awesome
"3d printed parts dont break along the layer lines which is why you have to design around them" lol
I'm not convinced with the example provided, because it'll increase the print time significantly to get to the same strength.
IMO, 3D printing parameters require specifying the wall thickness and infill characteristics at the bare minimum.
Honestly i do prefer the slicer side of modifications on this just due to modeling time i dont think it would pay off the time until you do get at least into the hundreds made and even then i had a slicer idea a while ago to print a (infill based) cylinder about the size of the nozzel and just use the nozzel to just inject plastic inside it after so many layers to lock the layers together and ik im not the only one thinking about it
Ah, but the point is that one is making this file for *other people* to print, and assuming they'll make the laziest choices possible when it comes to slicer settings. Yes, just increasing the wall thickness in slicer is the fastest way to make something stronger - but on the manufacturing side, the file creator can't control that. So this is creating a file that will still thicken the walls even when the factory goes for 2 perimeters and 15% infill just to bang it out fast.
@@davydatwood3158 yes haveing a 1 size fits all attitude to all models and haveing modelers fix it for them to keep it that way
+300% is 4x.
Sweet 3x the strength, now 3D printing is only 10x weaker than non 3D printed parts.
3d printed rods, now ribbed for pleasure
Kinda ruins some models for use with larger nozzles since it can cause some details to potentially be deleted entirely if they’re too thin. These designs feel as though they rely on you using similar print settings to the person who designed them despite being intended to reduce the need for tweaking slicer settings. Also this feels like it could potentially introduce more defects and increased print time.
Why on earth would I be sending parts away to get printed in fdm when I can send them away to get printed on an sls machine for virtually the same price the fdm farms charge and I can just specify wall thickness that is uniform and basically homogeneous around the part?
Then you increase print time tremendously
kinda just makes me think why no one has created an adaptive hole/circle/orb/ infill. i know nothing about programing so maybe its hard.
Or we can move away from using the long outdated STL file format and start using 3MF to share models, which was designed for 3D printing and keeps track of things like wall thickness.
Not compatible across printers
@@slant3d I'd be curious to know which slicers don't support it.
Okay, wow, you mentioned building with wood and then just went off on a tangent and missed your own point. If you are making an airplane from wood you pay attention to the grain. Same with your rod. Print it horizontal and you will pick up much more strength than just adding wall thickness.
And there are never parts that have to be printed vertically. That never comes up.
@@slant3dI think you need to take a break from youtube and rethink doing the whole youtube thing all together, i’ve seen a handful of your videos and you are blatantly misleading people, I don’t think it’s intentional, it’s just that you are not in any position to make any authoritative advice. You skipped the step where you learn and grow and jumped strait into content farming and making ad revenue, which is an awesome rush, I love earning money but you need to read a book on mechanics of materials or manufacturing, or literally anything would be an improvement at this point, you miss the mark so hard, anyone with a semester of engineering under their belt can see the glaring problems with the content you make. Not hating or anything, just my honest unsolicited advice.
Learning everytime, thanks
This seems like it kinda sucks
This guy is a content farmer, set his channel to not interested so you don’t see this kind of content anymore, he’s clearly not an engineer as you can quantify the quality of his videos with mistakes per minute, that’s right, he rapidly makes things up that are verifiably wrong so his videos hit a certain runtime mark. Also his videos are taylored toward mass producing with 3d prints, which in & of itself is an oxymoron, 3d printing is not suited for mass production nor should it ever be considered for it 😂 he’s making ad revenue off of misguiding naive people.
Are you trolling. Like this makes no sense and none of this testing was done scientifically. Seems like youre trying to make up for the shortcomings of a manufacturer. You should just get a new one what knows what they are doing. Stop making the model bloated and useless. This is helpful NOWHERE. If you cant effectively communicate design standards to a manu then you dont need to be using them. If you cannot properly adjust slicer settings or understand how they work you should learn from online resources. This is a Joke.
I don't think it's a joke at all. The same idea and principle is used in all manufacturing. For example, injection molding needs to have a uniform wall thickness in the part, therefore the parts are designed just like that from scratch. You can see that in almost every plastic item. In woodworking, when joining structural pieces of wood together, the pieces are cut in a way that creates a strong join, which is usually some kind of interlocking mechanism - if you just glue two flat ends of a 2x4 together, they will not hold any loads.
Mr. Slant 3D also has his own print farm, manufacturing parts for customers, so he has credibility too.
Ah...good old ribbed. Makes everything better. Don't believe me? Just ask her. 😉
am i the first commenter?
Am I the second?
lol. We in the top ten!
Years ago I’d insert small cuts into CAD models to force perimeters (as you’re suggesting) but I don’t like the solution at all. Not all slicers would do the right thing with those cuts! Instead I consider the slicing an absolutely essential part of the manufacturing process; it’s not something I’d leave to chance. If I need more perimeters in a certain place, I create a modifier in CAD which I load into the slicer. If a print service can’t handle that, I’d find a new print service.