Thank you for the awesome detailed video of how to take a Sankey Keg Coupler apart. I cleaned my lines and found the check ball retainer and check ball at the bottom of my cleaning vessel and didn't know where they went. You taught me that and a whole lot more. Thank you.
Thank YOU! I watched another and he went so fast I had to rewind several times, almost throwing my… never mind. Then I came across your video…. Ahhhhh a ray of sunshine! Very thorough and showing each part slow and steady helped greatly. Got her back together. Cheers
Most well-spoken and clear instruction I've seen so far - gonna give this a try next, thank you! Could a dirty coupler, bad probe seal, or stuck probe on the coupler itself be responsible for sputtering and foaminess in the beer and visible air/gas getting into the line near the coupler (considering other factors like the line length, co2 pressure, fridge temp, main coupler seal, and the keg itself have already been eliminated as factors)? At my wits end with the second tap on my three-tap system!
Noo Voo high probability this was the main factor in my situation, it looked pretty gnarly when I opened it up and that little ball wasn’t going anywhere with how gummed up it was - I say “was” because I no longer have the issue, and I’ve used the same process to successfully address a second issue that popped up with another tap afterward: 1. Dismantled and cleaned the coupler using the steps in this vid. Again, top marks on the advice here! 2. Felt it wasn’t a bad $6 spent to also pick up a sankey coupler seal repair kit (got mine off kegworks, but maybe leaders bev sells them too???) and replace all the coupler seals while it was dismantled. 3. Lastly I tweaked my CO2 levels just a bit based on some super simple balancing tips I found here th-cam.com/video/nclFUwyRt38/w-d-xo.html (maybe leaders bev has something on this too that I didn’t see??). There can be a lot of info and opinions on the topic scattered around in different places, but I hope this helps anyone out there dealing with something similar!
Thank you for the reply! Most helpful, I pulled the coupler to peek at the ball, it did look very gnarly, I haven't had a chance to clean it properly yet, can't seem to get the Co2 nut off, will try when I have more patience, lol! Thanks again! will post results.
Thanks so much! I replaced my main seals, but my coupler is still leaking - now that I have seen your video I will take the whole thing apart. I use it on my kegerator here at home, haven't cleaned it in 12 years!! But now I know... ;>)
Hi Dan, I'm really glad you found the video useful. If you are still having problems with your coupler leaking it may simply be its age. At a certain point the metal parts themselves will wear down. 12 years ago it is more than likely you bought a chrome plated brass coupler. Brass, besides being able to taint beer flavor, will wear down faster than others. If you aren't sure send me a short video or a few pics at my e-mail, drew@leadersbeverage.com, and I'd be happy to help diagnose. I imagine after 12 years you have an emotional connection to that coupler :) Hopefully you've changed your beer jumpers though. Thanks again so much for watching the video and posting your note. Cheers, Drew Larson leadersbeverage.com
Hi Chris, yes, you must have a neoprene washer between the coupler and the tail piece inside the hexnut. Metal on Metal won't make the seal you need and it will leak otherwise. Here is a link to the washer. www.micromatic.com/coupling-nuts-and-washer/neoprene-coupling-washer-759 - Cheers & Beers 🍻
I have a d coupler like yours however the probe has the O-rings on the probe itself. I can't seem to find what size those O rings are. I would also appreciate it you could tell me the size of the o ring for the gas safety relief spring pop valve on the side. Could you please tell me where to get these o rings for what size they are any help would be greatly appreciated
Hi Michael, we haven't used couplers with the o-rings on the probe in quite some time; so unfortunately we can't speak to the size you need. Does the coupler have a brand name on it anywhere? I know it isn't a Micro Matic coupler, does it say taprite or perlick for example? If you can figure out the brand of coupler and take a picture of the probe someone like morebeer.com customer service may have the replacement o-ring you need. Here is a link to a .pdf of a taprite coupler that uses the o-rings on the probe itself. You may be able to get a replacement from anyone who sells taprite couplers. d163axztg8am2h.cloudfront.net/static/doc/6e/42/00bc37ec7bd44a7f8431de5cb318.pdf -Good Luck and Cheers!
my coupler is losing co2 thru the release valve when I tap it to keg and open gas tank , then I went to the second coupler and same situation happened , what am I doing wrong
Great Video, I have a brand new kegerator, dual tap. One keg was working fine, the other was excessive foaming. I untapped the foaming keg but left beer lines attached. I noticed beer coming out of the beer line through the coupler. Is this normal? Would this be causing the excessive foam?
@@LeadersBeverageConsulting What Steve was asking about was the black piece of seal @2:42 that shears off because you were trying to force the probe thru the body while the seal was still on. You can see the piece on the table on the right side of the video.
You mentioned the air relief is there in case too much pressure builds up. Is it possible the are valve can go bad and let all the pressure out of the keg? My keg went flat and its the only place I can find air escaping. I will buy one from your site if you think its defective or can it be repaired?
Hi Dwayne, Yes, the emergency release can go bad and let air out. However, it can also get loose. Before you drop cash replacing it dunk the coupler into a bucket of water while the gas is on to it. If you see bubbles coming from the release then you know there is a problem. If there is, you can try removing it, stretching the spring and replacing it....mind you that is only a stop gap fix. I would expect your gas tank to run out as well if there was a leak like that letting out so much gas it flattened your beer. Are you using 100% Co2 at about 12 to 14lbs of pressure? -Cheers!
Thanks for saying that about the brass, I'm looking for some old ones I don't care about to use to fill and clean my kegs. Found a lot of 5 on ebay for 10 bucks so I figured why not but they were all worn down and probably not worth the hassle to have problems.
Hi JR, we keep old chrome plated brass couplers for cleaning applications but we never let product touch them. Stainless is a small investment considering the return on quality and life of the part. -Cheers!
Hi Paul, I'm very glad you found our video useful. You want to use a food grade lube. Here is a link to Micro Matic's pump and probe lube. www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/line-cleaning-pid-FT101L.html I suppose we should probably start carrying this in our online shop. let us know if you have any other questions. Cheers!
You mentioned cleaning the Sankey while still on the keg, I assume you meant just the bush cleaning. If I remove the Sankey from the commercial keg, I expect I have to vent the keg first before removing. Or is there a way to retain CO2 pressure in the keg as with Corny keg connectors?
Hi Bob, couplers are made to go on and off kegs. You shouldn't have any pressure loss in your keg when you remove the coupler. As a matter of fact when we clean we use the circulation method so every coupler comes off the keg every two weeks. check out: th-cam.com/video/-S8eENLGo6g/w-d-xo.html -Cheers!
Hello I just got my first kegerator and there wasn't much instructions for assembling the coupler with the proper gaskets on the CO2 or beer lines. I noticed the co2 line to the coupler needs the Thomas flange and now I'm wondering what o-ring/washer/gasket is needed for the beer line connection to the coupler. I have tried searching the web for videos but all of them seem very dated. Any information would be appreciated. I have an edgestar br1000ss only accommodates 1/6 kegs.
Hi Mr. Josh, we're so sorry we are getting to our response so late after your question. We're guessing you've figured it out by now, but if not please let us know. In the meantime, it is the neoprene seal that goes between the tail piece in the hex nut and the beer out threads of the coupler. There are many kinds of check valves (Thomas Valves) on the market and they all sit a bit differently. The standard gas jumper ends with a tailpiece that has a small barb on it to hold the check valve open. While its meant to also be its own seal we often still use a neoprene seal as an insurance polity. Its easy for a neoprene seal to make a good fit even at hand tight where just the check valve may need a lot of extra torque. Here are a few links to our shop that show what pieces I'm talking about. We add in a lot of additional information on our shop pages to try and help guide folks. leadersbeverage.com/product/check-valve/ leadersbeverage.com/product/neoprene-coupling-washer/ Many Cheers!
Hi Jennifer, Yes, you can submerge the entire coupler. The pressure relief valve is a replaceable part, and while we can't talk for everyone we've never seen one fail due to being submerged. -Cheers!
Hi Paul, I have the Insignia™ - 5.6 Cu. Ft. 2-Tap Beverage Cooler Kegerator - Stainless Steel Model: NS-BK2TSS6 and while cleaning the D-sankey coupler and faucet, 'ball stopper' and springs fell out. I was doing it over somewhat soapy solution so I didn't notice it until they already fell out. The ball coupler is not a ball on this unit but an elongated piece. Would the end with the ball face the bottom towards the keg? I also noticed that there were 2 small springs that fell out. I am not sure if they fell out of the koupler or the faucet (I know there are 2 larger springs that connect the faucet to the tower but these were smaller springs). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Hi Kyu, we aren't quite sure we understand exactly what you are working with. This coupler doesn't have springs and we've never worked with a coupler that has springs so we don't quite understand what you are working with. We did look up that unit but it doesn't indicate the kind of coupler supplied. Sorry we can't be more help on this one, hopefully you already figured it out. -Cheers
Hi Drew, Lube is mentioned down below but I don't see in your video the use of lube when reassembling. Can you detail where lube should be used? I am sure a small amount is used when reinstalling the probe. On your other video (faucet) do you use any lube on the faucet components? If I missed this in either the video or the comments please point me in the correct direction. Happy Thanksgiving! Doug
+Doug Klock Hi Doug, good point. We didn't even think of pointing that out. You want to use a food grade lube first of all. The lube is used on the rubber parts to keep them hydrated and resilient. You want to be careful not to get any where beer will actually touch and flow though because that will disrupt the clean flow causing foam. If you need more specific help give us a shout at info@leadersbeverage.com with a picture of your disassembled coupler and we can go from there. Cheers!
Hi Art, sorry it has taken so long to answer. By now, I'm sure you've found many alternative chemicals available all over. By no means do you need this level of commercial cleaner if you are maintaining a small home system. If you are cleaning a bar with a long draw you may want something more robust than home chemicals. Good Luck and Cheers!
I'm getting co2 bubbles coming up from the top of my keg tap into the beer line creating pockets making my first pour mostly head is there any way to solve this. I have a video bit not sure how to get on here
Hi Dan, yes, you are having a pressure issue. Gas dissolves into liquid based on pressure and temperature (for the most part). If the pressure of the Co2 coming out of solution in the keg is HIGHER than the pressure being put on the beer from the regulator then bubbles will escape the keg and run up the jumper. Therefore, the solution is to raise the pressure on the Keg. This may present some problems however, because if your system is balance for, as an example, 20lbs but it takes 30lbs of pressure to stop the bubbles then you will have beer pouring so fast at the faucet you can't fill a glass without breakout carbonation. Because Co2 dissolves in direct relationship to temperature, lowering the temperature of beer allows more Co2 to go into solution instead of causing pressure inside the keg. What that means is if your keg is over the brewery balanced keg at 38 degrees F, than the co2 is escaping as pressure. Ensure your keg is at 38 degrees or as close to that as possible. If you happen to just have a very highly carbonated beer than you can use a flow control faucet. This lets you put that extra pressure on the keg but slow the flow of beer back down at the faucet. Hope that helps, good luck and - Cheers!
So he's just going to ignore the chunk of gasket that went flying off the coupler? The probe seal should only go on one way. It has a taper & a ridge on the inside of the gasket. Lube your seals folks.
Hi Roberto, This video is for a 'D' series American Sankey. It won't matter what size a keg to the coupler. This is almost identical to the 'S' series coupler which is often called a European Sankey. If you aren't sure what you have or need post a picture and we'd be happy to tell you what you have. We also have a video that shows you the difference between the two. Cheers!
Neither do we, John. A metallic taste can come from chrome plated brass parts like tail pieces, couplers, faucets, shanks, etc. The chrome chips away rather quickly, less than a year, then the brass starts getting pitted. The beer then flows over the brass which gets eaten up by the acidity of the beer and can take along a metallic flavor with it. That is in conjunction with making the beer pour badly. So while you save some dollars on the system components you pay a lot more in wasted beer (pouring foam) and comped beers (don't taste great). Metallic flavors can also come from the brewery if they have certain water mineral reactions with metals or other ingredients so you want to also determine if you are dealing with a brewery issue or a draft system issue. Cheers!
Thank you for the awesome detailed video of how to take a Sankey Keg Coupler apart. I cleaned my lines and found the check ball retainer and check ball at the bottom of my cleaning vessel and didn't know where they went. You taught me that and a whole lot more. Thank you.
We’re very glad this video helped! Then little check balls have even caught us off guard before. Good luck! -Cheers & Beers 🍻
Thank YOU! I watched another and he went so fast I had to rewind several times, almost throwing my… never mind. Then I came across your video…. Ahhhhh a ray of sunshine! Very thorough and showing each part slow and steady helped greatly. Got her back together. Cheers
Hi Dawn, we are so glad this video helped! The whole idea is to help folks keep their beer flowing and tasting good. -Cheers & Beers 🍻
Most well-spoken and clear instruction I've seen so far - gonna give this a try next, thank you! Could a dirty coupler, bad probe seal, or stuck probe on the coupler itself be responsible for sputtering and foaminess in the beer and visible air/gas getting into the line near the coupler (considering other factors like the line length, co2 pressure, fridge temp, main coupler seal, and the keg itself have already been eliminated as factors)? At my wits end with the second tap on my three-tap system!
Same problem here. Thought I may have just got a bad keg from local distr. Lost about 1/2 fiddling with it. If you figure it out please reply.
Noo Voo high probability this was the main factor in my situation, it looked pretty gnarly when I opened it up and that little ball wasn’t going anywhere with how gummed up it was - I say “was” because I no longer have the issue, and I’ve used the same process to successfully address a second issue that popped up with another tap afterward: 1. Dismantled and cleaned the coupler using the steps in this vid. Again, top marks on the advice here! 2. Felt it wasn’t a bad $6 spent to also pick up a sankey coupler seal repair kit (got mine off kegworks, but maybe leaders bev sells them too???) and replace all the coupler seals while it was dismantled. 3. Lastly I tweaked my CO2 levels just a bit based on some super simple balancing tips I found here th-cam.com/video/nclFUwyRt38/w-d-xo.html (maybe leaders bev has something on this too that I didn’t see??). There can be a lot of info and opinions on the topic scattered around in different places, but I hope this helps anyone out there dealing with something similar!
Thank you for the reply! Most helpful, I pulled the coupler to peek at the ball, it did look very gnarly, I haven't had a chance to clean it properly yet, can't seem to get the Co2 nut off, will try when I have more patience, lol! Thanks again! will post results.
Thanks so much! I replaced my main seals, but my coupler is still leaking - now that I have seen your video I will take the whole thing apart. I use it on my kegerator here at home, haven't cleaned it in 12 years!! But now I know... ;>)
Hi Dan,
I'm really glad you found the video useful. If you are still having problems with your coupler leaking it may simply be its age. At a certain point the metal parts themselves will wear down. 12 years ago it is more than likely you bought a chrome plated brass coupler. Brass, besides being able to taint beer flavor, will wear down faster than others. If you aren't sure send me a short video or a few pics at my e-mail, drew@leadersbeverage.com, and I'd be happy to help diagnose. I imagine after 12 years you have an emotional connection to that coupler :) Hopefully you've changed your beer jumpers though. Thanks again so much for watching the video and posting your note.
Cheers,
Drew Larson
leadersbeverage.com
The hex nut that goes on top that the beer flows..do I need a rubber washer there or does it not matter?
Hi Chris, yes, you must have a neoprene washer between the coupler and the tail piece inside the hexnut. Metal on Metal won't make the seal you need and it will leak otherwise. Here is a link to the washer. www.micromatic.com/coupling-nuts-and-washer/neoprene-coupling-washer-759 - Cheers & Beers 🍻
Can you give a link for an all stainless tap that you'd recommend?
I have a d coupler like yours however the probe has the O-rings on the probe itself. I can't seem to find what size those O rings are. I would also appreciate it you could tell me the size of the o ring for the gas safety relief spring pop valve on the side. Could you please tell me where to get these o rings for what size they are any help would be greatly appreciated
Hi Michael, we haven't used couplers with the o-rings on the probe in quite some time; so unfortunately we can't speak to the size you need. Does the coupler have a brand name on it anywhere? I know it isn't a Micro Matic coupler, does it say taprite or perlick for example? If you can figure out the brand of coupler and take a picture of the probe someone like morebeer.com customer service may have the replacement o-ring you need. Here is a link to a .pdf of a taprite coupler that uses the o-rings on the probe itself. You may be able to get a replacement from anyone who sells taprite couplers. d163axztg8am2h.cloudfront.net/static/doc/6e/42/00bc37ec7bd44a7f8431de5cb318.pdf -Good Luck and Cheers!
my coupler is losing co2 thru the release valve when I tap it to keg and open gas tank , then I went to the second coupler and same situation happened , what am I doing wrong
Great Video, I have a brand new kegerator, dual tap. One keg was working fine, the other was excessive foaming. I untapped the foaming keg but left beer lines attached. I noticed beer coming out of the beer line through the coupler. Is this normal? Would this be causing the excessive foam?
Thanks alot for the video!
Did you replace the probe seal?
Look at about 2 minutes, 40 seconds.
That piece of rubber that flew out.
steve
Hi Steve, in this video the probe seal was removed at about 2m 54s in order to remove the probe and it was put back on at about 5m 04s. -Cheers!
@@LeadersBeverageConsulting
What Steve was asking about was the black piece of seal @2:42 that shears off because you were trying to force the probe thru the body while the seal was still on.
You can see the piece on the table on the right side of the video.
You mentioned the air relief is there in case too much pressure builds up. Is it possible the are valve can go bad and let all the pressure out of the keg? My keg went flat and its the only place I can find air escaping. I will buy one from your site if you think its defective or can it be repaired?
Hi Dwayne,
Yes, the emergency release can go bad and let air out. However, it can also get loose. Before you drop cash replacing it dunk the coupler into a bucket of water while the gas is on to it. If you see bubbles coming from the release then you know there is a problem. If there is, you can try removing it, stretching the spring and replacing it....mind you that is only a stop gap fix.
I would expect your gas tank to run out as well if there was a leak like that letting out so much gas it flattened your beer. Are you using 100% Co2 at about 12 to 14lbs of pressure?
-Cheers!
Stretching the spring worked. Thank you.
Dwayne Mullen very glad that worked! Remember that will only work for so long. The important thing is your beer is pouring right!
-Cheers
where would a spring go?
Very helpful and informative
is there a reason you need to replace a dirty gas line instead of cleaning and sanitizing?
Thanks for saying that about the brass, I'm looking for some old ones I don't care about to use to fill and clean my kegs.
Found a lot of 5 on ebay for 10 bucks so I figured why not but they were all worn down and probably not worth the hassle to have problems.
Hi JR, we keep old chrome plated brass couplers for cleaning applications but we never let product touch them. Stainless is a small investment considering the return on quality and life of the part. -Cheers!
very helpful, thank you!
what kind of grease should i use?
Hi Paul,
I'm very glad you found our video useful. You want to use a food grade lube. Here is a link to Micro Matic's pump and probe lube. www.micromatic.com/draft-keg-beer/line-cleaning-pid-FT101L.html
I suppose we should probably start carrying this in our online shop.
let us know if you have any other questions.
Cheers!
You mentioned cleaning the Sankey while still on the keg, I assume you meant just the bush cleaning. If I remove the Sankey from the commercial keg, I expect I have to vent the keg first before removing. Or is there a way to retain CO2 pressure in the keg as with Corny keg connectors?
Hi Bob, couplers are made to go on and off kegs. You shouldn't have any pressure loss in your keg when you remove the coupler. As a matter of fact when we clean we use the circulation method so every coupler comes off the keg every two weeks.
check out: th-cam.com/video/-S8eENLGo6g/w-d-xo.html
-Cheers!
Hello I just got my first kegerator and there wasn't much instructions for assembling the coupler with the proper gaskets on the CO2 or beer lines. I noticed the co2 line to the coupler needs the Thomas flange and now I'm wondering what o-ring/washer/gasket is needed for the beer line connection to the coupler. I have tried searching the web for videos but all of them seem very dated. Any information would be appreciated. I have an edgestar br1000ss only accommodates 1/6 kegs.
Hi Mr. Josh, we're so sorry we are getting to our response so late after your question. We're guessing you've figured it out by now, but if not please let us know. In the meantime, it is the neoprene seal that goes between the tail piece in the hex nut and the beer out threads of the coupler. There are many kinds of check valves (Thomas Valves) on the market and they all sit a bit differently. The standard gas jumper ends with a tailpiece that has a small barb on it to hold the check valve open. While its meant to also be its own seal we often still use a neoprene seal as an insurance polity. Its easy for a neoprene seal to make a good fit even at hand tight where just the check valve may need a lot of extra torque. Here are a few links to our shop that show what pieces I'm talking about. We add in a lot of additional information on our shop pages to try and help guide folks.
leadersbeverage.com/product/check-valve/
leadersbeverage.com/product/neoprene-coupling-washer/
Many Cheers!
Thank you for sharing.
Is it okay to submerge the part that includes the pressure relief valve?
Hi Jennifer, Yes, you can submerge the entire coupler. The pressure relief valve is a replaceable part, and while we can't talk for everyone we've never seen one fail due to being submerged. -Cheers!
Hi Paul,
I have the Insignia™ - 5.6 Cu. Ft. 2-Tap Beverage Cooler Kegerator - Stainless Steel
Model: NS-BK2TSS6 and while cleaning the D-sankey coupler and faucet, 'ball stopper' and springs fell out. I was doing it over somewhat soapy solution so I didn't notice it until they already fell out. The ball coupler is not a ball on this unit but an elongated piece. Would the end with the ball face the bottom towards the keg? I also noticed that there were 2 small springs that fell out. I am not sure if they fell out of the koupler or the faucet (I know there are 2 larger springs that connect the faucet to the tower but these were smaller springs). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Hi Kyu, we aren't quite sure we understand exactly what you are working with. This coupler doesn't have springs and we've never worked with a coupler that has springs so we don't quite understand what you are working with. We did look up that unit but it doesn't indicate the kind of coupler supplied. Sorry we can't be more help on this one, hopefully you already figured it out.
-Cheers
Hi Drew,
Lube is mentioned down below but I don't see in your video the use of lube when reassembling. Can you detail where lube should be used? I am sure a small amount is used when reinstalling the probe. On your other video (faucet) do you use any lube on the faucet components?
If I missed this in either the video or the comments please point me in the correct direction.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Doug
+Doug Klock Hi Doug, good point. We didn't even think of pointing that out. You want to use a food grade lube first of all. The lube is used on the rubber parts to keep them hydrated and resilient. You want to be careful not to get any where beer will actually touch and flow though because that will disrupt the clean flow causing foam. If you need more specific help give us a shout at info@leadersbeverage.com with a picture of your disassembled coupler and we can go from there.
Cheers!
Is there a good substitute for cleaning if I don’t have that chemical?
Hi Art, sorry it has taken so long to answer. By now, I'm sure you've found many alternative chemicals available all over. By no means do you need this level of commercial cleaner if you are maintaining a small home system. If you are cleaning a bar with a long draw you may want something more robust than home chemicals. Good Luck and Cheers!
Amazing video
Hi Marina, this is an Amazing note! Thanks so much for letting us know you enjoyed it. -Cheers!
Thank you👍
You bet! Cheers and Beers
You are welcome. We are glad you found some use from this video. Cheers!
I'm getting co2 bubbles coming up from the top of my keg tap into the beer line creating pockets making my first pour mostly head is there any way to solve this. I have a video bit not sure how to get on here
Hi Dan, yes, you are having a pressure issue. Gas dissolves into liquid based on pressure and temperature (for the most part). If the pressure of the Co2 coming out of solution in the keg is HIGHER than the pressure being put on the beer from the regulator then bubbles will escape the keg and run up the jumper. Therefore, the solution is to raise the pressure on the Keg. This may present some problems however, because if your system is balance for, as an example, 20lbs but it takes 30lbs of pressure to stop the bubbles then you will have beer pouring so fast at the faucet you can't fill a glass without breakout carbonation. Because Co2 dissolves in direct relationship to temperature, lowering the temperature of beer allows more Co2 to go into solution instead of causing pressure inside the keg. What that means is if your keg is over the brewery balanced keg at 38 degrees F, than the co2 is escaping as pressure. Ensure your keg is at 38 degrees or as close to that as possible. If you happen to just have a very highly carbonated beer than you can use a flow control faucet. This lets you put that extra pressure on the keg but slow the flow of beer back down at the faucet. Hope that helps, good luck and - Cheers!
@@LeadersBeverageConsulting my fridge is running at 32° f is that to cold
So he's just going to ignore the chunk of gasket that went flying off the coupler? The probe seal should only go on one way. It has a taper & a ridge on the inside of the gasket. Lube your seals folks.
I have questions
We have answers, hopefully they align.
Nice video! thanx
is this for 50 liter Sankey keg???
Hi Roberto,
This video is for a 'D' series American Sankey. It won't matter what size a keg to the coupler. This is almost identical to the 'S' series coupler which is often called a European Sankey. If you aren't sure what you have or need post a picture and we'd be happy to tell you what you have. We also have a video that shows you the difference between the two.
Cheers!
We don't dig metallic taste.
Neither do we, John. A metallic taste can come from chrome plated brass parts like tail pieces, couplers, faucets, shanks, etc. The chrome chips away rather quickly, less than a year, then the brass starts getting pitted. The beer then flows over the brass which gets eaten up by the acidity of the beer and can take along a metallic flavor with it. That is in conjunction with making the beer pour badly. So while you save some dollars on the system components you pay a lot more in wasted beer (pouring foam) and comped beers (don't taste great). Metallic flavors can also come from the brewery if they have certain water mineral reactions with metals or other ingredients so you want to also determine if you are dealing with a brewery issue or a draft system issue.
Cheers!
Safety…….. you are going to ingest what goes through it but you are concerned about being safe cleaning it. People are so stupid.