How to make heavy duty steel loading ramps
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2014
- In this video, I show you how to fabricate your own heavy duty steel loading ramps. This project was inspired by my need for ramps for a flatbed trailer that I bought some years ago that didn't have ramps. I used some "tough" aluminum ramps to load a 2000lb tractor on the trailer which worked OK, but unloading it was a different story! The tractor collapsed the ramps and it fell from the trailer. Luckily it landed on all 4 tires and nobody was hurt and the tractor is fine! Below is the materials list that should help you get through the project
24' of 2"x2"x3/16" angle iron
24' of 1.5"x1.5"x3/16" angle iron
Metal chop saw or angle grinder with cutoff wheels
MIG welder with .030-.035 steel wire
Good luck with your project! I'd love to hear your feedback!
Because of the way that you structured it / are using it, you have to have really good welds on the cross members because the welds are supporting the full weight of vehicle that you have on the ramp. That's why it is important to put all those welds on each of the cross members. If you use a ramp like that with it flipped over, the rails are supporting the cross members and as such, the welds on the cross members are mainly just to prevent the cross members from sliding along the rails and thus do not need to be as strong.
i would have put the cross members on top instead of below
I have a similiar welder. Found it more cost effective to get the 10lb spool instead of a bunch of 2lb spools. Great video,
nice build. im going to take a welding class next month and I want to build a set of ramps to drive my car onto.
Excellent job keeping coming
looks nice man , thanx for the idea , it can get very usefull
!!!
Great video! I am looking building myself some ramps.
Herple Ellis Thanks! I have since painted and used these ramps for a lot of loading and unloading...and another very useful application is to use them as a bridge! In the springtime the dirt road is usually washed out 4 or 5 feet deep making it impossible to pass over with a truck or tractor.
bravo! I'm about to fabricate a similar setup with slightly thinner steel (I don't need that much strength) to load my quad without the fear of a collapsing ramp!
It's a great project. I have found the rims to come in very handy for many different applications. The one thing that is frustrating is that they are very very happy. I would say mine are about 50 pounds a piece. If you see some of the more recent videos on getting stuck up at the homestead property, I use the ramps as a bridge over some rough terrain. They work very well. They will not support the full weight of my F 350 on a full span, but they will carry the truck over a three foot span. If it is just for a quad, you can get away with something smaller. But as you have probably figured out so far, I like to over build everything :-)
Weld some lines on the angle so the tires can use it as traction
great job dude....
Nice work!
Great build.
I will be making similar set
Would have been nice if you included a video after you were done where you are using them.
great video.
Looks like they are going to slick. Needs some 1/2" x 1/2" angle added to the top for traction.
I made that modification :) good call!
Thanks :)
+highcountrytimber I'm confused by this comment. When loading, I would drive up such that the tires are contacting the 90deg points on the angle-iron rungs, not the other side. The structure is stronger when deflected in that direction, and the traction would be higher; no need to add more steel.
Greetings from sunny France! Thanks for the video, very useful, I just finished looking at the price of new ramps, then noticed some angle iron that I bought and never used. I'll definitely make these. It would be interesting to have the dimensions of the ramp(s) you built. And an estimation of how much load they could take?
I was also thinking about a way of ensuring that they stay in place whilst loading. I'll mainly be using them for loading a mini digger on my 1300kg trailer, and since the digger is on tracks it can hop about a bit sometimes. If you have any ideas, I'd be glad to hear about them. Thanks again and take care.
very nice
I gave myself a nice sunburn on my upper arms doing this lol. Next time i'll wear long sleeves.
Don't let the welds take the weight. Turn the ramp over and the metal will take the weight and the welds will merely keep them in ace.
He's not that smart.
Also when you flip them over, any mud or debris won’t be caught in the V, it will shed the mud.
Keeping it orientated as he does, if the tire threads are as wide, or wider, than the ramp then the long angles are taking the weight. The only way your observations would be correct is if the tires are so narrow, they only touch the cross pieces. So, don’t Br do quick to judge.
@@johnvgig If the tyre treads are wider than the ramp then it is not wise to use them. You say don't be too quick to judge, what the f**k are you talking about. What a stupid comment. What's too quick to judge about it? What's wrong with my comment content? Are you superior to everyone else?
@@fortuner123 question for you: is the angle steel side any stronger in either orientation? His complete welding, seems to me, to be superior and to add strength to the angle steel.
My question relates to my build of ramps for a friend and trying to decide on length.
That's why I use a 10 lbs roll, tired of using 2lb roll, more cost effective,
What are those vice grips at the beginning? Like the ceiling in your house too.
Nice build bro.
How are u going to hide them on the trailer?
What spacing did you use on the cross members? About 8 inches?
Verry good
I use nothing smaller than 10lb rolls in my everlast. They are so much more economical than those small spools.
thanks for sharing your idea of building this heavy duty ramp by your own. may i know what is the brand of you MIG welder?
the blue one is a Clarke. got mine from JCwhitney. i run mine on gas so i have no slag. the leads are kind of short.
I made up extension leads for my everlast welder. they are pretty easy to make just find the correct size dinse connectors and wire.
How much weight can these ramps hold?
Loved the vid. Going to use this for my ramps.
I'm custom building a 34' flatbed trailer with dove tail and ramps.
How long did you make yours and what's the spacing between your cross members.
Will 7ft. Ramp handle a small Kubota with frontloader and back blade.
How long is your ramps??
How are the ramp’s holding up? Do they hold a car okay?
Brilliant thanks
how much metal did you purchace
why only tacking one rail at a time? why not cross tac off your laterals?
cool. I really need some ramps for my 16foot car trailer. We have a welder (that i've never used) but I think I'm going to just see if I can find somebody to weld them for me. Don't really wanna spend $600 on ramps lol
You can make them yourself for $100 and material!
I'm thinking about building some ramps for a flat-bed, however I would like to be able to load a Jeep Cherokee XJ that weighs approx. 3,300 lbs. What size and thickness angle iron do I need? 3 inch x 1/4 inch?
How long?
What about wood ramps? 2 x 8's with 3/4 in. plywood?
howd they hold up?
i need to make a set but all i can get is 1/8" angle, you think a 72" ramp with that would hold small-ish cars?
i would use c- channel
hi, i am useless with flux core that's why i stick to MiG gas then i am not to foul,
How long are they?
How long are they
That's Happened to Me on my MIG welder the bloody wires slipped out of my fingers lol
Don't know where you got the steel from but that much steel would've been less than $40 in my area. Nice build though.
I just paid 120 in RVA for the same material
All steel is not equal.
common sense says they should be used flipped over the other way.... much more strength! especially if you're not a professional!
The way he built is pretty standard for car trailers, they are positioned that way for traction. I have had a car trailer since 92 and mine are made this way. I have had cars, trucks, and tractors on my trailer with no problems.
upside down
Lost it at "really deeply penetrating".
What about that tremendous load? 7:48
why the hell would you then turn your ramp over and i doubt them welds or strong without using gas might as well cheimical weld it together
Why did you not start with cement piers for the shed? Cement pads for the excavator and covered trailer? Bottom up building ...works better that way. Neater overall. More stable. Just sayin'. It's driving me nuts watching this. .
i dont get it, spent $155 at home depot on angle iron copy ur ramps, went to load a car today and it bent in half :/
dillon wells go to a real steel yard for a much better price. He made these to load equipment into a trailer not load vehicles.
heavy equiptment weighs more than a car tho? lol nearly every youtube vid has these kind of ramps iv been seeing, and i didnt know we had a metal shop around here in this town till it was too late fml friend told me today about it, and went and picked up 2x3 6 foot piece of steel to patch a spot on the frame and it was only 20 bucks
You need to get another source for your steel. Just built these myself. 55 bucks for 20 ft of 2x2x3/16 and 20ft of 1.5x1.5x3/16. Ive loaded chevy suburbans with no issues. What thickness did you buy 3/16???
not too be an internet know-it-all, but your machine needs a tune badly as well as you need to roll your argon tank to mix up the gas, if you do that your beads will run smooth and there will be less impurities and ruptures. the only reason why i say this is because if your welds break your up a ramp without a crossmember. and thats a shitty day. good day sir happy tacking!
you didn't notice he was using flux core. no gas. look at the tip. better penetration.
Inner shield no gas required
Its stupid obvious hes not using argon no flipping nozzle......
heavy duty ? angle iron will buckle like a half cooked spaghetti noodle … should have used C channel