I dont have the head room to put my Boards o the underside of the rafters, I hage to cut and place inbetween old rafters. Obviously theyll be gaps between rafter and new boards, would taping them suffice and then put a vapour barrier over them then plywood finish, would this work.
I'm about to start re-doing the insulation in my house, using your amazing videos as a guide... thank you! One question though: Why did you batten out the rafters for more depth as opposed to installing thicker insulation beneath the rafters?
Frederik Grunta you could do however the guidelines from manufacturers always has the thickest layer between. I think that you would really struggle screwing plasterboard and 100mm to rafters too. I did it on one stud wall and wasn't easy.
Great video guys...I'm following this for my own loft but I have a dj set up up there how goid is the soundproofing as you uses 150m of insulation plus plasterboard
why did you go to the effort of adding depth to the rafters, instead of using thinner insulation board between the rafters? Couldn't you easily make up the required depth on the inside of the room and simultaneously reduce the problem of thermal bridging?
Yes having multiple, thinner layers, where the seams don't overlap would be better. The wood joists have very little R value or insulating properties. The down side is needing to use longer screws.
Hey buddy, I noticed in your project that you've doubled the rafters by stacking them on top of each other. I'm curious, does this affect their structural integrity? I would have thought that placing them side-by-side with larger timber for increased depth might be more effective, especially considering the added weight and the likely addition of plasterboard on top. I apologise if I'm a newbie in this area. I'm planning to take on a similar project this spring, inspired by what you've done. It seems like it'll be an interesting little project!
That works but does add to the thermal bridging and less insulation. In this case, I had pulled down hundreds of kg of lime plaster of the ceilings already so no real increase in loading after the 9mm PB. 👍
Does it have to be a 50mm gap ? I have limited head room In my newly purchased 1960 bungalows loft ! but there is a membrane, but probably not breathable ! roof replaced after a fire in the nineties. Great vids btw 👍
No wouldn't dare touch them, they have lasted 100 years and plenty life left. They were exposed underneath for 2 years and I have been up there in all weathers to monitor. Only leaks were cracked slates. We will have the whole roof off and membrane/battened in the next year or two anyway. They are worth quite a bit as they are to reclamation yards if we decided to replace, as soon as you coat them with anything they are headed to the skip. :-(
I've read about some systems and the principal seemed to make sense to me. By bonding the tiles together to the trusses you rely less on the likely rusted old nails as it becomes one large mass of tiles. I think removing the roof and a plastic membrane sounds like a good idea. I was surprised at the state of my old slate roof when I removed it which is, I'd guess, around the same age as your property.
I truly enjoyed your loft conversion videos, thank you for sharing. I’m going to be doing the same thing...my question is, how did you determine the right amount of ventilation for your space...between the insulation and the roof decking...my attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. You battoned out your rafters and attached your insulation to that, and left space for air flow? Do you have soffit vents? A ridge vent? Someplace for air to flow from and to? Thanks again, great work...
Regulations usually require 50mm air gap. This then needs soffit vents. In our case the ridge carries over to there is air flow soffit to soffit. To be honest the roof hasn’t been redone yet so there are gaps everywhere! 🙄 so no problem with airflow.
omg omg omg I would have paid good money to have been a fly on the wall when Jo saw all that mess !!!!! 😂 I mean, real good money !!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂And I'm hoping she gave you a good slap around the head too for that ninja-style position on the hand-rail. :-)))))
Really, really great video, so informative and engaging. A while ago i added them to my playlist for future reference - and that time is now! :D How did the winter go, i'm always worried about insulating my loft roof and still having condensation but desperately need a small office space. Unfortunately we only have a soffit at the front - do you think it be okay to add lap-vents that slide into the felt overlap instead? Also does the first layer of insulation run down tight to the exterior wall with the fibreglass butted up tight to it to prevent any warm air getting through to the cold part of the roof? As you can tell I'm paranoid about moist warm air condensing and dripping onto the back of the insulation. Really appreciate your thoughts, best wishes.
The insulation boards drop down at the stud wall and leave a cold uninsulated space in the eaves, with insulated and decked floor. Therefore lots of air movement that side. While we had openings in the walls still warm air does get out and can condense on the underside of slates, this is why you want to make sure the vapour barrier is continuous. We still haven't re roofed so no breather membrane, but even so I have never noticed condensation forming enough to drip and once the hatch doors went in there is no sign.
Is an air gap of 50mm not required between the battens and insulation?. Going off your measurements, you have a gap of about 25mm max. Possibly as low as 20mm.
Of course, but only as much as there have been for the previous 100 years. As there were rooms already there, there is no more risk than before, if anything the PIR will be shielding the habitable parts from any drips that might occur. Don't worry the roof is being done, just was less of a priority than regaining the living space, just didn't have £10k to spend at the time on replacing what is pretty much sound already.
I've also got an old house that was made using a rubber ruler
Hi how has the insulation stood up any damp from it . I going to do my house witch was built in 1890 soon thanks
Can you remove the vertical studs to utilise the space in the eves or are they structural?
I dont have the head room to put my Boards o the underside of the rafters, I hage to cut and place inbetween old rafters. Obviously theyll be gaps between rafter and new boards, would taping them suffice and then put a vapour barrier over them then plywood finish, would this work.
Could you add the links to the other videos please, I can’t seem to find them.
Hi do you need to put vents in the roof to stop condensation
I'm about to start re-doing the insulation in my house, using your amazing videos as a guide... thank you! One question though: Why did you batten out the rafters for more depth as opposed to installing thicker insulation beneath the rafters?
Frederik Grunta you could do however the guidelines from manufacturers always has the thickest layer between. I think that you would really struggle screwing plasterboard and 100mm to rafters too. I did it on one stud wall and wasn't easy.
Great video guys...I'm following this for my own loft but I have a dj set up up there how goid is the soundproofing as you uses 150m of insulation plus plasterboard
Did you pilot hole on the doubled up batons... And how deep into rafter do fixings go? Thx
Do those PIR boards offer good sound proofing?
why did you go to the effort of adding depth to the rafters, instead of using thinner insulation board between the rafters? Couldn't you easily make up the required depth on the inside of the room and simultaneously reduce the problem of thermal bridging?
Yes having multiple, thinner layers, where the seams don't overlap would be better. The wood joists have very little R value or insulating properties. The down side is needing to use longer screws.
Brilliant video - thank you!
Hey buddy,
I noticed in your project that you've doubled the rafters by stacking them on top of each other. I'm curious, does this affect their structural integrity? I would have thought that placing them side-by-side with larger timber for increased depth might be more effective, especially considering the added weight and the likely addition of plasterboard on top.
I apologise if I'm a newbie in this area.
I'm planning to take on a similar project this spring, inspired by what you've done. It seems like it'll be an interesting little project!
That works but does add to the thermal bridging and less insulation. In this case, I had pulled down hundreds of kg of lime plaster of the ceilings already so no real increase in loading after the 9mm PB. 👍
how did you "fit new timber to the bottom"?
Does it have to be a 50mm gap ? I have limited head room In my newly purchased 1960 bungalows loft ! but there is a membrane, but probably not breathable ! roof replaced after a fire in the nineties. Great vids btw 👍
Good video ,did you do one when you extended and levelled the roof rafter's?
Given any thought to under-coating the back of the tiles with something? I'd worry about how water tight that old slate roof may become.
No wouldn't dare touch them, they have lasted 100 years and plenty life left. They were exposed underneath for 2 years and I have been up there in all weathers to monitor. Only leaks were cracked slates. We will have the whole roof off and membrane/battened in the next year or two anyway. They are worth quite a bit as they are to reclamation yards if we decided to replace, as soon as you coat them with anything they are headed to the skip. :-(
I've read about some systems and the principal seemed to make sense to me. By bonding the tiles together to the trusses you rely less on the likely rusted old nails as it becomes one large mass of tiles. I think removing the roof and a plastic membrane sounds like a good idea. I was surprised at the state of my old slate roof when I removed it which is, I'd guess, around the same age as your property.
I
How did you go about attaching plasterboard to the insulation?
+Stephen Leary it’s in a future video. 75-100mm screws.
How much did this project cost you?
I was wondering what you did at the roof eaves where they meet the outside wall? As mine is open I.e. No soffit
You would need to block those off somehow. Either put in wood blocking between the joists or install a soffit on the outside
I truly enjoyed your loft conversion videos, thank you for sharing. I’m going to be doing the same thing...my question is, how did you determine the right amount of ventilation for your space...between the insulation and the roof decking...my attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. You battoned out your rafters and attached your insulation to that, and left space for air flow? Do you have soffit vents? A ridge vent? Someplace for air to flow from and to? Thanks again, great work...
Regulations usually require 50mm air gap. This then needs soffit vents. In our case the ridge carries over to there is air flow soffit to soffit. To be honest the roof hasn’t been redone yet so there are gaps everywhere! 🙄 so no problem with airflow.
thanks for your help...I really enjoy your videos
omg omg omg I would have paid good money to have been a fly on the wall when Jo saw all that mess !!!!! 😂 I mean, real good money !!!!! 😂😂😂😂😂And I'm hoping she gave you a good slap around the head too for that ninja-style position on the hand-rail. :-)))))
Really, really great video, so informative and engaging. A while ago i added them to my playlist for future reference - and that time is now! :D How did the winter go, i'm always worried about insulating my loft roof and still having condensation but desperately need a small office space. Unfortunately we only have a soffit at the front - do you think it be okay to add lap-vents that slide into the felt overlap instead? Also does the first layer of insulation run down tight to the exterior wall with the fibreglass butted up tight to it to prevent any warm air getting through to the cold part of the roof? As you can tell I'm paranoid about moist warm air condensing and dripping onto the back of the insulation. Really appreciate your thoughts, best wishes.
The insulation boards drop down at the stud wall and leave a cold uninsulated space in the eaves, with insulated and decked floor. Therefore lots of air movement that side. While we had openings in the walls still warm air does get out and can condense on the underside of slates, this is why you want to make sure the vapour barrier is continuous. We still haven't re roofed so no breather membrane, but even so I have never noticed condensation forming enough to drip and once the hatch doors went in there is no sign.
Is an air gap of 50mm not required between the battens and insulation?. Going off your measurements, you have a gap of about 25mm max. Possibly as low as 20mm.
We have 50mm above insulation. 👍
OH YES JACKIE!🤣
Ridiculous to do this before redoing the roof and fixing some breathable membrane.
Your reason? The roofing work will not have any effect on this. Breathable membrane is only going to benefit if slates are leaking.
No, there will still be wind driven rain that will get in without a membrane. FACT.
Of course, but only as much as there have been for the previous 100 years. As there were rooms already there, there is no more risk than before, if anything the PIR will be shielding the habitable parts from any drips that might occur. Don't worry the roof is being done, just was less of a priority than regaining the living space, just didn't have £10k to spend at the time on replacing what is pretty much sound already.
Check YOUR facts, Tim knows what he's doing