I'm about to try to build a 4G powered Hyundai S Coupe, and in watching all of your 4G vids, allow me to say that this is the greatest channel on youtube, ever.
You have what I consider my veritable unicorn. I have wanted one of those cars for years now. I settled on the Colt chassis simply because I can't find one anymore. I have scoured every scrap yard, every trading post, and scoured craigslist ads for all of my surrounding states and came up with nothing. They don't exist in the wild anymore, I've seen 3 and the owners wouldn't sell them for less than $3,000 and none of them were GT's. That car is significantly lighter than my Colt. I wanted to AWD it. Congratulations my friend... I hope this project actually happens, and kudos to the having the most underestimated chassis left that you can bolt a 4g63 into.
***** Jafro, this makes me feel incredibly bad. I bought an S Coupe for $125 once, which ran rather rough on the original 4G15 engine. I towed it home and started it up only to drop a valve and destroy a piston in it while idling it in the driveway, and soon after I towed it away to the scrapyard because nobody wanted it. :(
EdSabbath When? Recently? Because if so, I'd have scrapped my Elantra and swapped it instead in a heartbeat. At least if you were within reasonable distance from Virginia I would have... It's still not out of the question. The S Coupe has all the same problems with the parts supply as the Elantra, but that wouldn't matter for what I'd do with it. You should only feel bad if you wanted to put a 4g63T in it. Best 4g63 swap candidate you can find. Lightest 4g bolt-in chassis out there.
It's been about 4 years, not recent enough. I feel bad because that would have been the eventual plan had I kept it, I've owned two AWD DSMs since then and both I had almost zero dollars into, and would have been perfect parts cars for the swap. Had I known, I would have never done what I did. Maybe someday I'll find another S Coupe, I've wanted one ever since getting rid of that last one, and it's my biggest regret as a DSM lover and car guy in general.
I would suggest that if you are going to be using plastic wrap to seal up parts for storage - use a desiccant inside the wrap to reduce the tendency for water to accumulate or condense (due to variations in temperature). This could be a simple as using rice in a semipermeable bag to absorb water vapor, or using desiccant from pill bottles or from shoe boxes. Eastwood used to have rather large desiccant bags used inside large bags that cars were stored in, I am sure there are other examples of this you could find to use. Also, you might consider using white hand cleaner - the type that DOES NOT use grit in it - to clean cast iron. It would work well in the oil passages, and I know from experience that it works particularly well to clean cylinder walls as a final wipe down before installing pistons and rings. It is a trick that a old machine shop owner taught me quite a while back. He used this in all engines that he personally assembled, it allowed the pistons to be lubed on first start to reduce scuffing, and it allowed the piston rings to seat almost immediately. It was washed away easily by the oil in the motor, and was flushed out in the first oil change like white lithium grease is when used in engine assembly.
Watch out he's at it again. More oil gallery mods. It's like you're on a personal war against oil starvation because of what happened. I don't blame you. Makes me want to tear down my engine and debur the whole block. I want to see how the glyptol head is doing, whats next for that one? Grab a cup of coffee, sit back, relax, and get mesmerized. Can't wait for the next video keep em coming. :)
The elimination kit is what I was doing since I was there. Cleaned the block, new OEM oil pump and gaskets, new front facing housing with oil tap for Turbo. Thanks a lot for all the thoughts and advice.
I have no experience with or intention to use a 4g motor, but your presentation and commentary are enough to make me subscribe and continue to follow this series. Great job!
excellent work there mate, it all makes sense in what you have done. Combustion chambers, inlet and outlet ports get polished and matched to decrease the amount of drag and turbulence and increase efficiency so in theory it will also work with a liquid, and in this case, the lubrication circuit of an engine. Keep up the good work and the highly informative vids!!
Recently came across your channel and while I don't own or plan to own any of the vehicles you've featured, I love your videos. Took me a few days but I think I've watched about 3/4 of the videos.
Jafromobile I must say you put the emphasis in the saying if you're going to do something do it right. I've been watching you ever since I decided I wanted to do a rebuild on an engine and you helped me pick the engine I wanted to rebuild I appreciate the videos and the lessons you teach in them. I'll make sure I make videos on my rebuild and share them with you if of course you'd like to see them. Thanks jafromobile keep it up!!!
Jafro, headed to my 500 mile oil change & still running strong! You should host a dsm meet up in your hood to celebrate your engine rebuild completion.
I just completed this mod on my 4g64 block, I'm building for my evo 8 swap. I used my electric dremel with a carbide bit, sanding wheels, and then finished it by hand with wet sand paper. Looks great and thanks for giving me the idea to do it by posting this video.
Jafro. Another awesome video with props to my favorite machinist in the dsm community. BogusSVO has done one of my head with amazing quality with the oil head port modification. This video has further shown why he will likely build my street/strip block and head for my talon. By the way I met up with Tom from the Tom's turbo garage and the dsmshootout and we had some great conversation about your videos. We were hoping that you would make it to a future shootout. Thanks again Jafro.
Yeah I am glad to see updates on either of the cars just haven't seen or heard anything about the Galant in a while so I thought I would ask. Wish you the best of luck with both of the cars and can't wait to see the next video.
Also doing the main oil gallery mod. Thanks. I've been watching you and robertbaxley for a while now. If your doing something do it right. Thank Jafro keel posting. And we all appreciate all the hardwork that goes into each video.
I very interested in our modification, I support the idea, Yeah why not make the oil galleries have better flow. With my Toolmaking back round I also support this type of modification . Its well know improvement in many Moulding practices. Awesome I hope you got heaps of fun times with this engine.
Great video and another point for OCD. Just worth a mention have you ever noticed the way the block casting oil way doesn't match up to the oil pump casing, try the gasket on and see what you find. Maybe not an issue on 6-bolt but I've had to port match a few 6-8 Evo blocks. Great video, looking forward to more
TheLilhottie685: The guy works a full-time job, then another "job" providing these videos to us for free. It's up to him if he wants to also fix cars for free, but personally I wouldn't even ask. I'm grateful for all that he does for us already.
Sooo....GM is resurrecting the boosted Astron this year...not exactly the same beast, but certainly a cousin. Loved my G54..someday I'll build a StarQuest...
I use headphones and found it muted? Not a big deal I just have to make sure I don't have my dishwasher on in the background, or my tv on and to loud, then again I'm sure it's me, I'm a mechanic for a railroad, which means although my hearing hasn't been drastically reduced it's isn't exactly perfect, I little off topic. Keep the videos coming I am especially looking forward to seeing the engine assembled and hearing it run. Again GRET VIDEO KEEP 'EM COMING
Jafro: You're not the only one who has trouble with sound balances that are thrown off after uploading to TH-cam. Even well-funded channels like BBC's Top Gear occasionally have music tracks that drown out the dialog. A friend of mine who does video work thinks that part of the problem is full 5.1 surround-sound tracks that get cut down by YT into compressed stereo. If you mix your audio using highest-quality settings, consider downgrading to simple stereo or even monoaural sound for TH-cam.
I like the way you pay attention to detail in your block preparation. Oil passages should be smooth to aid delivery to and from the engines moving parts.
Hey jafro big fan always like to watch your videos I’m gaining a lot of knowledge from your videos as I’m rebuilding a 4g63 for my 3000gt swap I’m working on
stuby shaft so when Over-revved the engine for the first time well you probably know what happened after that I ended up pulling the engine and ended up having a hole in the block the rod cap broke off and the rist pin was broke off the middle of the piston so now I have to build a new engine what fun but a big thanks to you because without your vids my engine would have never bin built
I had this done to my 7 bolt 2.4. We're using the stock front case with the OFH ported and the head oil supply passage rounded out a bit as per your video on that subject. We're also running a three piece crank scraper. I'm anxious to see how my oil pressure does after this, I have an Auto meter Phantom gauge to monitor it but I think the oiling problems I saw previously will be gone (although the stub shaft falling off the gear is pretty much as catastrophic of a failure as it can get.)
Great video i can't wait to see how this thing runs. By the way I have a ton of respect for you after watching your video about how you do your production not that I didn't have allot as it is.lol
Hi Jafro, This vid is awsome (as usual). I would like to know if you have some tips about engine regulation. I mean references talking about relationships between sensors, like lambda gauge, air flow sensor... And so on. Calculators are for me black boxes.
Hey, Jafro. Great video, and lots of knowledge ... endless really. I spun a bearing on my Balanced shaft. Would I have to hone that bearing surface. Dsm for life.
You should be wearing some sorta protective breather mask when shaving the block. Dont want aluminum dust going in your lungs Jafro! We want videos to keep coming for a long time.
Is there any difference in approach to this, between 6 bolt and 7 bolt blocks? Excellent channel and videos mate, you certainly know how to explain everything thoroughly. :)
Awsome video Jafro. I love and watch all of your videos, but I did find it difficult to hear, is it me? or did you do something different? Either way keep the videos coming!!!!!!!!!!
love all the videos, learned a lot! Q: I have a 1G 4G63T, still a ways from putting it together, what is the proper way to prime the oil system before first start; also any thoughts on an electric pump for pre oiling thanks!
14:50 imagine holding your drill bit straight for such a long hole. its not easy, also long drill bits make the problem worse. even with a gun drill keeping the bit straight is basically impossible.
too large oil galleries leaves your engine unlubrificated with pressured oil a fraction of a second longer during start , increasing wear every start. An idealsolution would be an electric pulsing oil pump added to the fantastic and indestructable meccanic oil pump. Just for prassuring the oil before start : no constructor does it because the engines would not wear and would last 2 000 000 km
Thanks good info it's probably a better idea going the 6 bolt rout cause I just built a 7 bolt block and it only lasted me 147 miles cause I forgot to tighten the balance shaft stuby
well on my thought ,all this is good but it stems back to the sourse.the oil pump,once you get a good oil pump presser then the other small defectes can be over come.becouse on hot days that oil turns to water runs very thene ,and also even with the right ouil presser the oil we have is some what unstable.so i would think a good mid range or high presser oil pump and a good lucis additive would solve alot of probes.anyways just wanted you to know your vids have been very helpfull becouse ive alway been a chevy guy.this is my first 4g63.the ballencer shaft bearing was inside the bottom of the oil pan.ive never found one vid yet who someone says the balencer shaft was there knocking prob.well guys sheck it becouse mine had ver good rods and mane berings it sounded like a thras muchean ,oil light was on so there was my prob.so i done the balencer shaft delete.alls good now thanks for your vids .now i can say yap mitchubsi,sure i can work on that.lol and kindell oill is number one
Hey jafro buddy, I'm in the middle of replacing all my bearings and seals in my transaxle in my 97 talon tsi awd, and am wondering if you could do a gear stack video? or possibly steer my in the direction of a good DIY guide, I just recieved all my parts(all I need was bearing near 1st gear on int shaft but decided to do it all. I know that your supposed to shim the gears to make them match up properly, read the manual but had a hardtime understanding some of it to a t. Any advice is welcome bro
Jafro, so what you did of grinding and sanding the oil galleries is to improve the oil flow circulation? I don't know about sticking silly putty on a wire and plugging the oil gallery hole with it to keep metal shavings out while working on it, you could of just plugged it up with blue shop paper towel instead, thats what i would of done. Plus it wouldn't matter anyway if you're going to send it to a machine shop to have it hot tanked and cleaned also masking the whole block wouldn't matter too if its going to the machine shop for cleaning. In your case if your not sending out for the hot tank job and plan on assembling the block after the mod, masking the block would make sense.
I prerfer the good old casting blocks over alluminium anyday except if it was for lap time racing . cast iron is tougher , easear to repair, forgiving and virtually indestructable
Hello master , I need your help , please!. Let's see , when I turn on my car ( Mitsubishi RVR sports gear x3, engine 4g63) the oil pressure is 80 psi for 800 RPM (for 65°F). but when the engine starts to heat, the oil pressure drops to 0 psi (200°F). What do you think ???? Note: my Metales are new.
TheLilhottie685: Apologies if I was overly defensive. Guess I've read too many comments on TH-cam from people who were borderline nut cases (and some that were way over the border). Anyway, I hope your clutch/transmission issue got fixed. If it turns out that you were missing the same "crankwalk bolt" that was missing on Jafro's engine, please post a video!
Jafro, Would putting glyptal in the oil galleries, after doing this mod be beneficial at all? Figured I'd ask since you did the inside of the block, and the inside of the head.
+BoostedCajun I would go with… no. In fact, I would consider it a bad idea just like a high cholesterol diet would be a bad idea for your arteries. It's not the oil galleries that need help in a 4g63 as much as the oil return. Glyptal would leave a thick, and therefore, restrictive coating inside the galleries. You get a greater benefit by polishing them than you would by coating them. I don't know how glyptal behaves under pressure, and I'm not sure anyone else has tested that either, but imagine if one little chip or flake did start to peel… That would be disastrous.
hi, you have created good video on oil pump and filter videos. i have a question, your help is very much appreciated. When i change oil, if i dont fill oil in the filter, and if i start the car, will the car run withtout the oil for first few seconds.. i mean it might take few seconds to get the oil filter to be filled,, please advise.. i am not sure if the oil filter is the only source to get oil and if takes few seconds to get that oil filled not sure during this time waht will happen.. please
What is that called the blue ducttape, I NEED that. Im watching all ur vids, im restoring a golf mk2 GTI 16v 90 with ur help! 😎😁 I learned alot from u, and u so much about detail! Love it, im into that for ma mk2
cam someone explain what a DSM and a GSX are? Here In australia we have the stock Lancer models (2WD non turbo SOHC etc), the GSR (4g93T 1.8L turbo AWD) and the EVO 1-3 (4g63T 2.0L turbo AWD)
I'm sure it will, but its an easy job while the block is bare, and why would you tolerate that cruddy casting flash in your extremely important oil system. The oil pressure regulator also regulates at a point prior to the upper gallery, so any pressure created by restriction in that gallery will ultimately lower the pressure in the main oil gallery. I'd rather have trust in that id done everything I could to make sure my regulator pressure is matching actual pressure.
Does anybody with mold/casting/glass-blowing experience know if it's feasible to make a glass model of the oil pathways that are being modified in this video? I realize that such a model wouldn't exactly replicate the actual oil flow in an active engine, but it might do a much better job than the speculation we create in our heads. Can we make a glass or hard-plastic tube in the same shape and send hot oil through it? Would we better off just putting more sensors into a test-stand engine?
Jafromobile, hi there, noob from cebu, philippines and a big fan of yours, whats good engine oil weight for 1g 4g63 n/a daily driven? Rebuilt mine and one more(4g67) in the works.
Jafro love the vids have learned allot I wanted to know if you we're interested in selling some of your 7 bolt internals like the apr studs eagle rods and and what ever else you were interested in selling was ganna go the 6 bolt rout but I can't find one anywhere so if you we're interested in selling parts I am interested in buying thanks and keep the vids coming .
Just wondering what the flow looks like. A lot of times mods like this create chaotic flow rather than laminar. Which would be just as effective as leaving it alone. Or simulate how much material and where to remove it then find a CNC operator and have a party but this would all be more work than it's really worth.
I should set up a gopro on the gauge some time when I'm flogging it at the track and let you see what the oil pressure does. On this particular oil fountain, I nailed it. I fixed the excessive pressure issue, ended up with good oil pressure at idle, the right pressure at WOT/7000 RPMS and that means I nailed my oil clearances. Just like how one car might be different from the next, oil that flows correctly at one pressure might not flow right at another... but with all of the oil mods I performed, it's correct at every oil pressure and RPM on THIS car. The biggest motivator that gave me peace of mind in doing this was the fact that it was recommended by a gentleman we'll refer to as BogusSVO. That man knows his ish. There's a link to his thread in the description, but it doesn't include any flow data.
Valid. Now I'm interested in this GoPro data. Things that factor final oil pressure though rely heavily on bearing clearances being accurate throughout as well as other areas the oil is going (turbocharger feed and drain restrictions could increase pressure and an issue wouldn't be discovered till later). You could be bandaging an underlying issue if that is the case, though, correct?
They're sandwiched between the block and the front case with a gasket. It's how Mitsubishi chose to move oil from the pump to the block. More reliable on a high pressure oil system than a hose or a pipe would be, and lower maintenance, too. The gasket usually lasts the life of the engine. It's a smart way of doing it. If I had to complain about anything, it would be about the design of the pump. There are other oil galleries on the outside of the block opposite the front case. Those should be plugged. There are also galleries bored into the balance shaft bores from the outside of the block, those are also always plugged. Sometimes there's just no other way to make an oil gallery but to punch a hole from the outside...
I'm about to try to build a 4G powered Hyundai S Coupe, and in watching all of your 4G vids, allow me to say that this is the greatest channel on youtube, ever.
You have what I consider my veritable unicorn. I have wanted one of those cars for years now. I settled on the Colt chassis simply because I can't find one anymore. I have scoured every scrap yard, every trading post, and scoured craigslist ads for all of my surrounding states and came up with nothing. They don't exist in the wild anymore, I've seen 3 and the owners wouldn't sell them for less than $3,000 and none of them were GT's. That car is significantly lighter than my Colt. I wanted to AWD it. Congratulations my friend... I hope this project actually happens, and kudos to the having the most underestimated chassis left that you can bolt a 4g63 into.
I found one. Only one. You're right about that, I can't find these anywhere. Next option: Mirage.
***** Jafro, this makes me feel incredibly bad. I bought an S Coupe for $125 once, which ran rather rough on the original 4G15 engine. I towed it home and started it up only to drop a valve and destroy a piston in it while idling it in the driveway, and soon after I towed it away to the scrapyard because nobody wanted it. :(
EdSabbath When? Recently? Because if so, I'd have scrapped my Elantra and swapped it instead in a heartbeat. At least if you were within reasonable distance from Virginia I would have... It's still not out of the question. The S Coupe has all the same problems with the parts supply as the Elantra, but that wouldn't matter for what I'd do with it.
You should only feel bad if you wanted to put a 4g63T in it. Best 4g63 swap candidate you can find. Lightest 4g bolt-in chassis out there.
It's been about 4 years, not recent enough. I feel bad because that would have been the eventual plan had I kept it, I've owned two AWD DSMs since then and both I had almost zero dollars into, and would have been perfect parts cars for the swap. Had I known, I would have never done what I did.
Maybe someday I'll find another S Coupe, I've wanted one ever since getting rid of that last one, and it's my biggest regret as a DSM lover and car guy in general.
I would suggest that if you are going to be using plastic wrap to seal up parts for storage - use a desiccant inside the wrap to reduce the tendency for water to accumulate or condense (due to variations in temperature). This could be a simple as using rice in a semipermeable bag to absorb water vapor, or using desiccant from pill bottles or from shoe boxes. Eastwood used to have rather large desiccant bags used inside large bags that cars were stored in, I am sure there are other examples of this you could find to use.
Also, you might consider using white hand cleaner - the type that DOES NOT use grit in it - to clean cast iron. It would work well in the oil passages, and I know from experience that it works particularly well to clean cylinder walls as a final wipe down before installing pistons and rings. It is a trick that a old machine shop owner taught me quite a while back. He used this in all engines that he personally assembled, it allowed the pistons to be lubed on first start to reduce scuffing, and it allowed the piston rings to seat almost immediately. It was washed away easily by the oil in the motor, and was flushed out in the first oil change like white lithium grease is when used in engine assembly.
Watch out he's at it again. More oil gallery mods. It's like you're on a personal war against oil starvation because of what happened. I don't blame you. Makes me want to tear down my engine and debur the whole block. I want to see how the glyptol head is doing, whats next for that one? Grab a cup of coffee, sit back, relax, and get mesmerized. Can't wait for the next video keep em coming. :)
The elimination kit is what I was doing since I was there. Cleaned the block, new OEM oil pump and gaskets, new front facing housing with oil tap for Turbo. Thanks a lot for all the thoughts and advice.
I have no experience with or intention to use a 4g motor, but your presentation and commentary are enough to make me subscribe and continue to follow this series. Great job!
U have that national geography voice😂. Nice work. Simple things like these make the engine more reliable.
excellent work there mate, it all makes sense in what you have done. Combustion chambers, inlet and outlet ports get polished and matched to decrease the amount of drag and turbulence and increase efficiency so in theory it will also work with a liquid, and in this case, the lubrication circuit of an engine. Keep up the good work and the highly informative vids!!
Recently came across your channel and while I don't own or plan to own any of the vehicles you've featured, I love your videos. Took me a few days but I think I've watched about 3/4 of the videos.
Jafromobile I must say you put the emphasis in the saying if you're going to do something do it right. I've been watching you ever since I decided I wanted to do a rebuild on an engine and you helped me pick the engine I wanted to rebuild I appreciate the videos and the lessons you teach in them. I'll make sure I make videos on my rebuild and share them with you if of course you'd like to see them. Thanks jafromobile keep it up!!!
Jafro, headed to my 500 mile oil change & still running strong! You should host a dsm meet up in your hood to celebrate your engine rebuild completion.
I just completed this mod on my 4g64 block, I'm building for my evo 8 swap. I used my electric dremel with a carbide bit, sanding wheels, and then finished it by hand with wet sand paper. Looks great and thanks for giving me the idea to do it by posting this video.
Good golly gee weez Batman! This is necessary for all the 4g63 since they are prone to crankwalk. Thanks mate! I miss my GSX. Was my favourite car.
Jafro. Another awesome video with props to my favorite machinist in the dsm community. BogusSVO has done one of my head with amazing quality with the oil head port modification. This video has further shown why he will likely build my street/strip block and head for my talon. By the way I met up with Tom from the Tom's turbo garage and the dsmshootout and we had some great conversation about your videos. We were hoping that you would make it to a future shootout. Thanks again Jafro.
Yeah I am glad to see updates on either of the cars just haven't seen or heard anything about the Galant in a while so I thought I would ask. Wish you the best of luck with both of the cars and can't wait to see the next video.
I just finished this mod on my 6 bolt. Easy and worth the time in my opinion
Also doing the main oil gallery mod. Thanks. I've been watching you and robertbaxley for a while now. If your doing something do it right. Thank Jafro keel posting. And we all appreciate all the hardwork that goes into each video.
I very interested in our modification, I support the idea, Yeah why not make the oil galleries have better flow. With my Toolmaking back round I also support this type of modification . Its well know improvement in many Moulding practices.
Awesome I hope you got heaps of fun times with this engine.
Great video and another point for OCD. Just worth a mention have you ever noticed the way the block casting oil way doesn't match up to the oil pump casing, try the gasket on and see what you find. Maybe not an issue on 6-bolt but I've had to port match a few 6-8 Evo blocks. Great video, looking forward to more
Oh yeah! Jafro staying classy and making all of us drool over his knowledge lol. Thanks for the simple yet ever so helpful tip man
TheLilhottie685: The guy works a full-time job, then another "job" providing these videos to us for free. It's up to him if he wants to also fix cars for free, but personally I wouldn't even ask. I'm grateful for all that he does for us already.
Sooo....GM is resurrecting the boosted Astron this year...not exactly the same beast, but certainly a cousin.
Loved my G54..someday I'll build a StarQuest...
I have been watching your videos and taking notes. I’m rebuilding a ford/Mazda duratech 2.3l and your videos have been very helpful
I use headphones and found it muted? Not a big deal I just have to make sure I don't have my dishwasher on in the background, or my tv on and to loud, then again I'm sure it's me, I'm a mechanic for a railroad, which means although my hearing hasn't been drastically reduced it's isn't exactly perfect, I little off topic. Keep the videos coming I am especially looking forward to seeing the engine assembled and hearing it run. Again GRET VIDEO KEEP 'EM COMING
Jafro: You're not the only one who has trouble with sound balances that are thrown off after uploading to TH-cam. Even well-funded channels like BBC's Top Gear occasionally have music tracks that drown out the dialog. A friend of mine who does video work thinks that part of the problem is full 5.1 surround-sound tracks that get cut down by YT into compressed stereo. If you mix your audio using highest-quality settings, consider downgrading to simple stereo or even monoaural sound for TH-cam.
I like the way you pay attention to detail in your block preparation. Oil passages should be smooth to aid delivery to and from the engines moving parts.
Yay, FINALLY ^_^ I asked you about this in a comment awhile back on another vid. I'm happy you remembered to upload a vid on this.
Dude your soo freaking smart on engines man. Its kinda hard to follow.. but i enjoy your videos keep it up man.
Hey jafro big fan always like to watch your videos I’m gaining a lot of knowledge from your videos as I’m rebuilding a 4g63 for my 3000gt swap I’m working on
stuby shaft so when Over-revved the engine for the first time well you probably know what happened after that I ended up pulling the engine and ended up having a hole in the block the rod cap broke off and the rist pin was broke off the middle of the piston so now I have to build a new engine what fun but a big thanks to you because without your vids my engine would have never bin built
I had this done to my 7 bolt 2.4. We're using the stock front case with the OFH ported and the head oil supply passage rounded out a bit as per your video on that subject. We're also running a three piece crank scraper. I'm anxious to see how my oil pressure does after this, I have an Auto meter Phantom gauge to monitor it but I think the oiling problems I saw previously will be gone (although the stub shaft falling off the gear is pretty much as catastrophic of a failure as it can get.)
Great video i can't wait to see how this thing runs. By the way I have a ton of respect for you after watching your video about how you do your production not that I didn't have allot as it is.lol
Hi Jafro,
This vid is awsome (as usual).
I would like to know if you have some tips about engine regulation. I mean references talking about relationships between sensors, like lambda gauge, air flow sensor... And so on.
Calculators are for me black boxes.
Hey, Jafro. Great video, and lots of knowledge ... endless really. I spun a bearing on my
Balanced shaft. Would I have to hone that bearing surface. Dsm for life.
Yeah, that and I need a head stud (just one) to handle the o-ringed head gasket-so it can handle the rigors of nitrous and yard maintenance!
Excellence! As usual. I have got to stop by one day and shake your hand
You should be wearing some sorta protective breather mask when shaving the block. Dont want aluminum dust going in your lungs Jafro! We want videos to keep coming for a long time.
Is there any difference in approach to this, between 6 bolt and 7 bolt blocks?
Excellent channel and videos mate, you certainly know how to explain everything thoroughly. :)
It seems as though no matter what there is always lots of clean up after this kind of job. But it's one ate closer to completion :)
Awsome video Jafro. I love and watch all of your videos, but I did find it difficult to hear, is it me? or did you do something different? Either way keep the videos coming!!!!!!!!!!
I wish i knew as much as you about engines as you Jafro
love all the videos, learned a lot! Q: I have a 1G 4G63T, still a ways from putting it together, what is the proper way to prime the oil system before first start; also any thoughts on an electric pump for pre oiling
thanks!
exelente tutorial de como limpiear un bloque de motor antes de ensamblarlo
14:50 imagine holding your drill bit straight for such a long hole. its not easy, also long drill bits make the problem worse. even with a gun drill keeping the bit straight is basically impossible.
I strangely knew it was BogusSVO once you mentioned someone in the dsm community.
too large oil galleries leaves your engine unlubrificated with pressured oil a fraction of a second longer during start , increasing wear every start. An idealsolution would be an electric pulsing oil pump added to the fantastic and indestructable meccanic oil pump. Just for prassuring the oil before start : no constructor does it because the engines would not wear and would last 2 000 000 km
Thanks good info it's probably a better idea going the 6 bolt rout cause I just built a 7 bolt block and it only lasted me 147 miles cause I forgot to tighten the balance shaft stuby
Brilliant as usual. This is my favourite engine site, thanx.
About to do this on my Volvo B234F block!
Sound is just fine on my end. Keep them vids coming. Any more Colt love coming anytime soon?
well on my thought ,all this is good but it stems back to the sourse.the oil pump,once you get a good oil pump presser then the other small defectes can be over come.becouse on hot days that oil turns to water runs very thene ,and also even with the right ouil presser the oil we have is some what unstable.so i would think a good mid range or high presser oil pump and a good lucis additive would solve alot of probes.anyways just wanted you to know your vids have been very helpfull becouse ive alway been a chevy guy.this is my first 4g63.the ballencer shaft bearing was inside the bottom of the oil pan.ive never found one vid yet who someone says the balencer shaft was there knocking prob.well guys sheck it becouse mine had ver good rods and mane berings it sounded like a thras muchean ,oil light was on so there was my prob.so i done the balencer shaft delete.alls good now
thanks for your vids .now i can say yap mitchubsi,sure i can work on that.lol
and kindell oill is number one
I'm considering this oil mod for my lawn mower.
Curios why do you use coffee filters as a rag? Also I love watching your channel, keep up the great work.
Have you noticed the gasket covers part of this gallery? Why is that?
Hey jafro buddy, I'm in the middle of replacing all my bearings and seals in my transaxle in my 97 talon tsi awd, and am wondering if you could do a gear stack video? or possibly steer my in the direction of a good DIY guide, I just recieved all my parts(all I need was bearing near 1st gear on int shaft but decided to do it all. I know that your supposed to shim the gears to make them match up properly, read the manual but had a hardtime understanding some of it to a t. Any advice is welcome bro
i also clean my sockets before using inside an engine :)
Jafro, so what you did of grinding and sanding the oil galleries is to improve the oil flow circulation? I don't know about sticking silly putty on a wire and plugging the oil gallery hole with it to keep metal shavings out while working on it, you could of just plugged it up with blue shop paper towel instead, thats what i would of done. Plus it wouldn't matter anyway if you're going to send it to a machine shop to have it hot tanked and cleaned also masking the whole block wouldn't matter too if its going to the machine shop for cleaning. In your case if your not sending out for the hot tank job and plan on assembling the block after the mod, masking the block would make sense.
I prerfer the good old casting blocks over alluminium anyday except if it was for lap time racing . cast iron is tougher , easear to repair, forgiving and virtually indestructable
I wonder if painting the oil feeds with that paint would help with oil flow?
Hello master , I need your help , please!. Let's see , when I turn on my car ( Mitsubishi RVR sports gear x3, engine 4g63) the oil pressure is 80 psi for 800 RPM (for 65°F). but when the engine starts to heat, the oil pressure drops to 0 psi (200°F). What do you think ????
Note: my Metales are new.
When Is the next time you are putting up a vid wanna see more of that colt
TheLilhottie685: Apologies if I was overly defensive. Guess I've read too many comments on TH-cam from people who were borderline nut cases (and some that were way over the border). Anyway, I hope your clutch/transmission issue got fixed. If it turns out that you were missing the same "crankwalk bolt" that was missing on Jafro's engine, please post a video!
Jafro, Would putting glyptal in the oil galleries, after doing this mod be beneficial at all? Figured I'd ask since you did the inside of the block, and the inside of the head.
+BoostedCajun I would go with… no. In fact, I would consider it a bad idea just like a high cholesterol diet would be a bad idea for your arteries. It's not the oil galleries that need help in a 4g63 as much as the oil return. Glyptal would leave a thick, and therefore, restrictive coating inside the galleries. You get a greater benefit by polishing them than you would by coating them. I don't know how glyptal behaves under pressure, and I'm not sure anyone else has tested that either, but imagine if one little chip or flake did start to peel… That would be disastrous.
your videos are very fulfilling. subbed.
Ótimo, um bom profissional.
hi, you have created good video on oil pump and filter videos. i have a question, your help is very much appreciated. When i change oil, if i dont fill oil in the filter, and if i start the car, will the car run withtout the oil for first few seconds.. i mean it might take few seconds to get the oil filter to be filled,, please advise.. i am not sure if the oil filter is the only source to get oil and if takes few seconds to get that oil filled not sure during this time waht will happen.. please
What is that called the blue ducttape, I NEED that. Im watching all ur vids, im restoring a golf mk2 GTI 16v 90 with ur help! 😎😁 I learned alot from u, and u so much about detail! Love it, im into that for ma mk2
it's just blue painters tape. Commonly available at local hardware stores
Hey Jafro! I was wondering throughout the video, would it be beneficial to apply glyptal to the oil passages that you cleaned out??
Are you going to put Glyptal on your freshly smoothed oil galleries? If not why?
It has been two months since the last video. I am getting twitchy........................
Hi,
My name is Brad and I am a Jafroholic.
cam someone explain what a DSM and a GSX are? Here In australia we have the stock Lancer models (2WD non turbo SOHC etc), the GSR (4g93T 1.8L turbo AWD) and the EVO 1-3 (4g63T 2.0L turbo AWD)
Pressurized oil will flow just fine through the stock galleries. I can’t see the need for this other than to say ‘I customized my oil galleries’.
‘While you are in there’
I'm sure it will, but its an easy job while the block is bare, and why would you tolerate that cruddy casting flash in your extremely important oil system.
The oil pressure regulator also regulates at a point prior to the upper gallery, so any pressure created by restriction in that gallery will ultimately lower the pressure in the main oil gallery. I'd rather have trust in that id done everything I could to make sure my regulator pressure is matching actual pressure.
no oil pressure is created by the flow of oil going past the bearing and the restriction of doing that that he done increases flow
your videos are awesome as always, thanks.
awesome, never disappoint jafro
Good video! Now I gotta do mine! Doh!
Can't wait for next vid awesome vid as always
Does anybody with mold/casting/glass-blowing experience know if it's feasible to make a glass model of the oil pathways that are being modified in this video? I realize that such a model wouldn't exactly replicate the actual oil flow in an active engine, but it might do a much better job than the speculation we create in our heads. Can we make a glass or hard-plastic tube in the same shape and send hot oil through it? Would we better off just putting more sensors into a test-stand engine?
this is just great i learn every time thank you sir!!
Yes!! New video
Jafromobile, hi there, noob from cebu, philippines and a big fan of yours, whats good engine oil weight for 1g 4g63 n/a daily driven? Rebuilt mine and one more(4g67) in the works.
I'm assuming yes.. but does this also apply for the 4g64?
just curious who you have powdered coat your blocks?
Will this lower the oil pressure of the motor?
Will this same as 4g93t block cause we meet a issue once runing 30min The idle Oil press is below 1bar
Jafro love the vids have learned allot I wanted to know if you we're interested in selling some of your 7 bolt internals like the apr studs eagle rods and and what ever else you were interested in selling was ganna go the 6 bolt rout but I can't find one anywhere so if you we're interested in selling parts I am interested in buying thanks and keep the vids coming .
Great video by the way
ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU SO MUCH
hello ... what did you spray and wipe the engine with ?
Was this the 7 bolt block? I forget
That was perfect idea
Andon Andonian That idiot idea. Completely useless.
good video quality
nice tips! thanx have to try them.
You should get someone to scan that and run it in a model simulation.
Bro, I've worked in IT for 25 years including 2 universities and I still don't have access to those resources, lol!
Just wondering what the flow looks like. A lot of times mods like this create chaotic flow rather than laminar. Which would be just as effective as leaving it alone. Or simulate how much material and where to remove it then find a CNC operator and have a party but this would all be more work than it's really worth.
But props on your dremel control and cleanliness. A+! I presume it is effective, but how effective is what I'm sincerely interested in.
I should set up a gopro on the gauge some time when I'm flogging it at the track and let you see what the oil pressure does. On this particular oil fountain, I nailed it. I fixed the excessive pressure issue, ended up with good oil pressure at idle, the right pressure at WOT/7000 RPMS and that means I nailed my oil clearances. Just like how one car might be different from the next, oil that flows correctly at one pressure might not flow right at another... but with all of the oil mods I performed, it's correct at every oil pressure and RPM on THIS car. The biggest motivator that gave me peace of mind in doing this was the fact that it was recommended by a gentleman we'll refer to as BogusSVO. That man knows his ish. There's a link to his thread in the description, but it doesn't include any flow data.
Valid. Now I'm interested in this GoPro data. Things that factor final oil pressure though rely heavily on bearing clearances being accurate throughout as well as other areas the oil is going (turbocharger feed and drain restrictions could increase pressure and an issue wouldn't be discovered till later). You could be bandaging an underlying issue if that is the case, though, correct?
this is awesome well done
another great video ..
What are your thoughts on the 4B11T?
Why are there oil galleries on the outside of the block, does the oil pump cover those two outside oil galleries?
They're sandwiched between the block and the front case with a gasket. It's how Mitsubishi chose to move oil from the pump to the block. More reliable on a high pressure oil system than a hose or a pipe would be, and lower maintenance, too. The gasket usually lasts the life of the engine. It's a smart way of doing it. If I had to complain about anything, it would be about the design of the pump.
There are other oil galleries on the outside of the block opposite the front case. Those should be plugged. There are also galleries bored into the balance shaft bores from the outside of the block, those are also always plugged. Sometimes there's just no other way to make an oil gallery but to punch a hole from the outside...
Can you recommend a shop that will rebuild my motor?
Put that gypsum stuff on the oil galley
Pioneer SX-980 @4:40?