I recently did this job. I bypassed and hacked as much as I could. Didn't pull the valve cover, intake manifold, camshaft gears off. Only loosened power steering pump. I did use cam locks to keep the timing belt in place while installing the new timing belt. That helped alot. As for installing the harmonic balancer, you can use a longer bolt and put 1 washer at a time to crank the harmonic balancer back into place so you really don't need the special tool to re-install it.
Nice work and sounds impressive! Thinking on your toes and making things work in your favor. Thanks for watching and leaving the comment and best of luck with your PT - keep it Cruisin'
Well come to the club, you pull this job off you are way above average. I did a water pump replacement on 1 and the book called for 12-16 hours. Took me two 8Hr. days only focused on this vehicle.
DUDE!!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! you successfully made a video on how to make a pain in the ass job even harder and more time consuming. bravo. just pay a shop.
Your comment doesn't help or do anyone any good. Several thoughts: • These days a shop might easily charge around $1000 or more for a job like this - or (as they told one of my family) just tell you that your motor is blown and you need a whole new one. If that's what you want to deal with then feel free. • For ANY older vehicle (PTs can fall in the 20+ years old category now) it is incredibly valuable for owners to know how to do repairs themselves and to simply get more familiar with their car all around so that you are more knowledgeable about it and better prepared to handle unexpected situations or emergencies. • It's a good thing not to be clueless and scared of your car if something goes wrong. • I find (as others do) great joy and fulfillment out of using my own two hands to fix something and enjoy the "fruits of my labor" - i.e. - happily driving around after solving an issue on my car myself. You cannot place enough value on the reward of self-accomplishment. And lastly - if you were to actually do this repair I am sure you would discover that it is not as bad as you think/react. Just go slow and careful.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this valuable video. On a side note, I've read in the comment section of similar videos that removing the two transmission mounting bolts, as well as all engine mounts, gave them another four inches of motor swing to get it out of the way of the inner passenger side fender. Comments?
@jly74 Thank you for posting the question. So you will already have removed the Engine Torque Struts and disconnected the Passenger Side Motor mount to do the Timing Belt replacement as seen in this video. If you want to take the extra effort and disconnect the Transmission mount that would allow you more maneuverability of the engine/transmission assembly and you'd probably get a lot more room on the passenger side. HOWEVER - You would need to be very careful/cautious to properly support the entire engine/transmission assembly so it wouldn't fall or potentially move/rotate too far. You could easily start ripping hoses, wires and other components apart if the engine/transmission assembly were to rotate/drop too far. So there is the possibility it could become a nightmare... But if you need that extra access for any reason I'd say it is not out of the question. But personally I don't feel there is the NEED for this repair.
@@PTBubbles Thanks for your response. I'm "looking forward" to this operation (belt, idler, cam/crank seals, water pump) in the near future on my 2005 Dream Cruiser Limited convertible, auto trans. 107,000 lucky miles.
@@jly74 Excellent! The job is virtually identical on the Turbo model you just have a few more things to tend with on the intake manifold and pertaining to the Turbo and it's connections. But all in all it is not too much more work. Set aside at least a weekend or two to get through it carefully if this is your first time doing this job. This is definitely not a task that should be rushed. Wishing you the best!
I hope your brother appreciates all the work you did on this and how lucky he is to have you as a brother! Fantastic job, I really enjoyed watching everything you did!
Thanks very much for your reply. Greatly appreciated. Based on your answer, i think i will plan on spending the weekend to change out my belt. I'm kinda slow when doing mechanical jobs of this level of difficultity Thanks again for your help. Have a wonderful day
Just wanted to take a minute and say how helpful your video was. Lol, it took me 15 hours to change out my timing belt, BUT, i don't think i could have done it without the excellent resource of your video. Thank you so much for making this available to the average "joe" trying to do their own maintenance. Have a great day, i know i am since completing this massive undertaking.
@@rosskennedy1960 Nice work! Glad to hear you made it through. The timing belt is a huge task but it feels good to understand your car and know you can do the work when you get it done. Pretty satisfying to hear it start up once the job is done, right? More videos to come on maintenance and repairs we can all do. Stay tuned
We got a deal on a 2001 Limited PT Cruiser because it needs; ignition switch parts, over heating and Timing belt unknown history, plus misc fixes needed too like Sunroof, a bit of paint work and a nice detail. I’m going to watch this video over and over again so it absorbs all the way through. Q: Is there a “Best” Timing belt kit (Amazon) to buy? Notice I did not say “Cheapest”.
@catlady8324 Congrats on the PT deal! I typically go to Rockauto.com for most parts I need. Here are some links to parts that should help you (I'm guessing on some based on what you described as the PT needing). Should you eventually need additional parts for steering, suspension, brakes...and almost everything else I'd just stick to RockAuto unless it is one of the rare cases that they don't carry the part: Ignition Switch: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=943191&cc=1398753&pt=4700&jsn=912 Lock Cylinder (super cool version that learns from your existing keys): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9770160&cc=1398753&pt=10041&jsn=939 Timing Belt Kit (this version has the upgraded version 2 Mechanical Tensioner as well as the Water Pump and Camshaft Seals) www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7680820&cc=1398753&pt=5759&jsn=1040 Full Upper end Gasket kit (I prefer the FelPro kits and have not had the issue of the wrong style Cylinder Head gasket that comes in some kits): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=446938&cc=1398753&pt=5416&jsn=1051&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 NOTE: Probably a good idea to replace the Crankshaft Front seal (you'll almost be there with the Timing Belt/Water Pump replacement and it is behind the Crankshaft Sprocket) Oil Pan Gasket: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=447505&cc=1398753&pt=5436&jsn=1068&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 Oil Pump (in case there are issues or low oil pressure): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5541771&cc=1398753&pt=5564&jsn=1063 IMPORTANT EXTRAS: Here are some other videos to help you go over the entire PT making it ready and roadworthy for many years to come: Cleaning up the Engine Wiring (grounds and positive connections): th-cam.com/video/oXGrD9_JFKc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eSWqt-jMkrrlnJeD Cylinder Head Gasket, Timing Belt and much more: th-cam.com/video/k_FGSxjAo90/w-d-xo.html Heater Core and A/C Evaporator (in case you might have leaking from either): th-cam.com/video/k_FGSxjAo90/w-d-xo.html 6 Episode Series I made for Brakes, Suspension, Steering: th-cam.com/video/EN89erGQUBU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=i8v2xVAMJbxkKxFm th-cam.com/video/72WFVWLfKVw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KQFXqgwD05JNNq4S th-cam.com/video/sYMpQVGY5Hw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0297J1JYZiZRUwL8 th-cam.com/video/HDckRsyQBAQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=E1QlQ8SiGJEV0ylt th-cam.com/video/TEXGqvBxO1w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pHIJmEaxd_AX-DJQ th-cam.com/video/CohqjAr_Uzw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=K5QHLLbourMCxEVY Gas Tank & Fuel Pump Replacement: th-cam.com/video/WrGVbdk_-II/w-d-xo.htmlsi=poqD8CZxaSZ-xkp1 Rear Liftgate (replacing the Hydraulic lift arms and the wiper grommet): th-cam.com/video/BbKnyVSxTHo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xPFmHCw9yxgiynmn Rear Brakes and Suspension Rebuild (Drum Brake version): th-cam.com/video/uv7aJgFFBuo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PymkzxtEoeGiFT9X Good luck in keeping the PT Cruisin'!
Amazing video PTBubbles !! Thank you so much for the detailed instructions. My Pt (2004 light turbo) doesn't yet have a snapped timing belt, but I should do it as it has 106000 miles. Problem is, I'm really debating if I should keep the car. I absolutely love it, but the rack and pinion has to be changed, and so does the alternator. And being that I should change the timing belt and water pump, it makes for a lot of repairs. Plus, I'm worried more things might go out immediately after I fix it all up. But parting with it is totally not what I'd want to do. Thanks a million PTBubbles thoug cuz you make me feel like I could possibly do the work myself, even if all I ever did was change starters and some little parts here and there.
Hello there! Believe in yourself! If you've got the tools and the time I'll bet you can do this. The Light Turbo will have a slightly different process due to the different Intake Manifold and Turbo components but otherwise the work should be identical. As long as you are careful as you go and don't rush things I'll bet you can do it and get it buttoned back up and working great. The repairs you mentioned are definitely doable and once you've done them might even be easier than you thought. One of the very nice things about PT Cruiser parts (at least at this point in time) is they are not too expensive. Here's a quick price check I just did on Rockauto for the parts you may need to do the work you described: $130 - Gates Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1330560&cc=1432934&pt=16088&jsn=950 $89 - Enginetech full motor gasket kit: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7486752&cc=1432934&pt=10392&jsn=956 $187 (with $60 core return) - AC Delco Alternator: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1000384&cc=1432934&pt=2412&jsn=1018 $213 (with $70 core return) (Assuming you have an automatic transmission) - BBB Industries Rack & Pinion: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7038156&cc=1432934&pt=7388&jsn=1043 $140 - Mevotech Front End Kit (you need at least new Tie Rods with the new Rack & Pinion - but I'd recommend replacing all in the kit): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12746885&cc=1432934&pt=15413&jsn=1189 $38 - Sunsong Power Steering Pressure and Return Lines (you want to replace these when servicing the Power Steering/Rack & Pinion): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7659700&cc=1432934&pt=7320&jsn=1078 $800 approximately (not including fluids and any additional tools you may need) for these components. Considering that these days any time you take your car to a shop you can assume the cost will be $1000 at a minimum and you'd not get all of these parts replaced it seems like a better plan. And here is a list of possible additional repairs you could do since you'd already be "in there": (I'd be surprised if the motor mounts do not need to be replaced - unless you have already had those done) $14 - SKP Upper Motor Mount: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7753412&cc=1432934&pt=5556&jsn=1133 $14 - SKP Lower Motor Mount: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7753416&cc=1432934&pt=5556&jsn=1134 $35 - Front Left CV Axle: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3856782&cc=1432934&pt=2288&jsn=874 $44 - Front Right CV Axle: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3854565&cc=1432934&pt=2288&jsn=879 $100 - FCS Struts/Coils: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4425108&cc=1432934&pt=15174&jsn=1195 $78 - SKP Oil Pump (if you are having oil pressure issues): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13561897&cc=1432934&pt=5564&jsn=968 $6 - Front Crankshaft Seal (needed if you do the Oil Pump): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=261114&cc=1432934&pt=5604&jsn=982&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 $5 - K&N Oil Filter: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1127576&cc=1432934&pt=5340&jsn=1094 I am working on some other front end videos now that could help you with these repairs - posting as soon as I can. I'd be happy to help if you want to ask questions or you get stuck on anything. Shane of PTBubbles
Thank you for the video, by far the best one I've seen. I guess my Wife's PT is due this service. Been dreading it for too many years. It is a 2002 (purchased summer of 2001) with only 36K miles. But 23 years old! Manuel says 100K or 10 years. Not even close on miles, far exceeds the time limit. Car still has original P/S and alternator belts and they look new. As does the entire car. Only parts that are not original on the car are filters and fluids. I have read / been told this is a clearance engine which will not damage the engine if the belt fails. Like yours??? I have also seen videos that show major valve damage when the belt fails with the engine at high RPMs non clearance engine??? It is real hard to start this tear down on a car that pretty much looks the same as it did when it left the factory. On the other hand if the engine will be badly damaged if the belt fails? I'm already on borrowed time??? Your opinion Please?
Hello and thank you for sharing the story of your wife's PT. It sounds like your wife has really taken care of the PT if the belts still look new and it only has 36k original miles! I am assuming your 2002 PT Cruiser has the 2.4L standard U.S. motor? If so, it should be a non-interference motor and the cylinder head valves and pistons should not come in contact if the belt breaks. That being said, there could always be a risk of something being damaged, especially if the belt were to break when the motor is at high RPM (such as on the highway). The 2004 PT in this video had the belt snap while my brother was driving it in the city. Fortunately no damage occurred other than the belt itself - oh and I did discover while changing it that it was the tensioner pulley that had failed and probably what caused the belt to snap. Interestingly the person we purchased this PT from said that the belt had been replaced just 1 year before. This goes to show, in my opinion, the importance of replacing all the serviceable parts you can when you do this procedure. It is no easy task and takes time so I feel it is best to address any/all parts you can while you are in there. You may be safe continuing to run the PT for a while still if there are no issues, but my personal preference is to try and avoid failures before they occur. I'd say it would be good to weigh the pros & cons, but if it were me I would be prepared to replace more than just the belt if I were going to do the work. Here is a small list off the top of my head of the other components that you will be very near and have the opportunity to replace if you go as far as the belt: Tensioner Pulley Idler Pulley Water Pump (I'd say this is a must - it requires removing the Cam-gears/sprockets & the Timing Assembly Rear Cover as well. I will be posting another video soon of doing this work on a 2001 PT) Upper & Lower Motor Mounts (torque struts) Alternator and Power Steering/Air Conditioning belts Oil change & Radiator Fluid change IF you are having any oil leaks from the Oil Pan, Oil Pump, Oil Filter areas it would not be much more work to fix/replace gaskets/seals for those as well I know this may seem a bit daunting just looking at it as a list, but you will have already done the bulk of the work just getting to the belt so these are definitely worth considering. I will soon start posting more videos of doing all those steps on a 2001 PT Cruiser so that may help you decide as well. I hope this helps - and I'd be happy to answer more questions if you have them. Shane of PTBubbles
Hi there, I just came across your video on pt timing belt replacement...you make it seem so easy! I am not 100% sure timing belt is the issue with my 05 PT, I unsuccessfully have thrown parts at her and took to a shop that couldn't fix either. A friend thinks timing belt has jumped teeth. Yeah, at 140k, a belt is needed no matter what.... Issue is, she runs fine up till 2k rpm, then she stutters and bucks like crazy, gets on down the road just fine as long as she stays under 2k rmp 😞 This sound like a timing belt issue to you? Thanks!
@fingersofskill Thanks for stopping by and posting your question. Even a single tooth jump can cause issues so I wouldn't necessarily rule that out. Can I ask for a bit more info: What parts have you already swapped/checked? What did the shop do? • Do you have the ability to do some testing and have some tools to diagnose? • Sounds like fuel is flowing and that's not an issue. • I would want to check for compression in each cylinder (will require taking off the Intake Manifold and Spark Plugs and a compression check tool). This should hopefully help diagnose if you have a blown head gasket and perhaps a cylinder not firing as a result. As you have the Intake Manifold removed I would check all gaskets as you go to make sure you have good seals and no air leaks. Check the hoses that all plug into the Intake as well for dry/cracked hoses that need to be replaced. • While you have the Intake removed you can also do a spark test to check that the coil is sending a spark through each wire to the spark plugs. Basically I'd go through these basic tests for fuel, air, and spark first. Let me know if this helps or if you might need more info/help.
@dfharris03 There would be a lot more work involved to pull the motor. I would not recommend it unless you have other reasons and a need to pull the motor to do other work or repairs.
Great video. I've replaced a few timing belts in the past but this one looks to be the most complicated. The last one I did was on the wife's Neon as a preventative measure. That car's long gone...I just picked up a 2006 PT turbo convertible with 32k miles. I haven't researched this yet but your engine is clearly NOT and interference engine and I'm wondering if mine is too (2.4l Turbo) so if you know please reply.
Hello! Thanks for posting your question. The 2.4L Inline 4 Cylinder from Chrysler is not an interference motor as you were able to discern. That includes the Turbo models as well. In fact - the Timing Belt replacement will be almost the exact same process as on the N/A model once you remove the Upper Intake Manifold and disconnect what is needed around the Turbocharger and exhaust manifold. I have not yet recorded the Timing Belt replacement on a Turbo Model, but if you check out my channel you can at least see my reassembly of the Turbo motor I swapped into my (originally N/A) PT Cruiser. This may help guide you through what is involved on the Turbo Motor and you might be able to reverse the process so you know what to do for disassembly. You could start here (Chapter 9: Motor Assembly Part 3) th-cam.com/video/X5965Ur85rQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bcgp-4-E3AAtC2Th Eventually I will post the Timing Belt replacement on a Turbo Motor start to finish but I haven't had the chance yet. I hope this helps - best of luck as you dive in! Shane of PTBubbles
hey ptbubbles, so I got the repair all done. However when I went to start up the engine it only revs to 4k rpm. Any ideas why it might be in limp mode? I have the turbo model and there's no check engine lights
@FrozenCalzone Glad to hear back from you. I tried to respond to your question about the motor mount bracket and those pesky bolts but I think the comment was gone? I couldn't find it. I hope that means you figured it out. You can jack the motor UP pretty high as well and take the bolts/bracket out of the top if you need to. I've done it both from the bottom and the top. Are you Revving in Park/Neutral or do you mean it only goes to 4k rpm while you are driving? It is normal due to the Rev limiter (set in the PCM) for the PT (N/A and Turbo) to max out around 4k while in Park/Neutral. This video here shows another PT Turbo doing this: th-cam.com/video/w9UtdRnnB1s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ieNTf5lS2Wpc2YaN So as long as it is not having issue while driving and it idles smooth it sounds like you did a great job swapping the belt. Excellent work if so! Let me know if the issue is present while driving and I'll see if I can help. Shane of PTBubbles
@@PTBubblesThanks for trying to help yesterday, I figured it out. I just had to pull the engine forward a bit lol. I was unaware about the rev limiter in park/neutral and was worried that I did something wrong. Took it for a test drive and it's better than ever. About 40 miles into a road trip so it's safe to say that it's working as intended. Just wanted to thank you so much for your video and all your help!
@@FrozenCalzone This is wonderful to hear my friend! Nice work. You can say you did it and know that much more about your PT. I hope it treats you well for many years and 1000s of miles to come. 👍 Shane of PTBubbles
Soon after you left this response I actually was able to record the entire process of swapping out the Fuel Pump which includes the Fuel Filter. I'll post that in the near future.
Hello - are you talking about just the Timing Belt? $5000 for a Timing Belt seems pretty ludicrous. Or was the $5000 quote for a whole new engine? (Including labor etc.) That still seems quite high regardless. Would need to know more info as to what exactly the quote was for.
@@PTBubbles They say timing chain broke...regardless I found a much newer car and I letting the Saturn die...She was over 22 years old/Over 266,000 miles!
I did not last time because of the quality of the new pump i got and now i have to go back in. It helps to know how old the pump is however it is a little more work than just the belt.
Once you have the parts, tools, and are ready to go I would give yourself a day just in case you run into anything along the way (broken parts, stripped bolts etc). If you are able to proceed without anything slowing you down then I'd say you can do the belt within 3-5 hours. Some may be able to do faster but it's always safe, when working on cars, to take your time estimate and multiply it by three for a more realistic and safe estimate. I hope that helps.
In short the answer is "no" IF we are talking about the DOHC 2.4L motor. There were also the SOHC 1.6L and 2.0L engines which WERE interference. On the most common 2.4L engine the timing belt breaking will not cause the valves to impact the pistons. You will find all kinds of answers on this if you start searching the internet - and a LOT of wrong answers. But again - the 2.4L DOHC engine is NON-interference.
@bubbashubbs298 Thank you for the post! You've highly peaked my attention! May I ask if your Wrangler has the 42RLE (rear wheel drive) transmission as well? I am looking into getting one of the 42RLE transmissions (basically the rear wheel drive version of the 41TE transmissions in the PT Cruisers). I have an extra 2.4L engine and I wanted to find one of the 42RLEs so that I could put the motor and transmission into something like an old Valiant.
I recently did this job. I bypassed and hacked as much as I could. Didn't pull the valve cover, intake manifold, camshaft gears off. Only loosened power steering pump. I did use cam locks to keep the timing belt in place while installing the new timing belt. That helped alot. As for installing the harmonic balancer, you can use a longer bolt and put 1 washer at a time to crank the harmonic balancer back into place so you really don't need the special tool to re-install it.
Nice work and sounds impressive! Thinking on your toes and making things work in your favor.
Thanks for watching and leaving the comment and best of luck with your PT - keep it Cruisin'
Well come to the club, you pull this job off you are way above average. I did a water pump replacement on 1 and the book called for 12-16 hours. Took me two 8Hr. days only focused on this vehicle.
Thanks for stopping by and the comment. Take care!
DUDE!!!! CONGRATULATIONS!!! you successfully made a video on how to make a pain in the ass job even harder and more time consuming. bravo. just pay a shop.
Your comment doesn't help or do anyone any good.
Several thoughts:
• These days a shop might easily charge around $1000 or more for a job like this - or (as they told one of my family) just tell you that your motor is blown and you need a whole new one. If that's what you want to deal with then feel free.
• For ANY older vehicle (PTs can fall in the 20+ years old category now) it is incredibly valuable for owners to know how to do repairs themselves and to simply get more familiar with their car all around so that you are more knowledgeable about it and better prepared to handle unexpected situations or emergencies.
• It's a good thing not to be clueless and scared of your car if something goes wrong.
• I find (as others do) great joy and fulfillment out of using my own two hands to fix something and enjoy the "fruits of my labor" - i.e. - happily driving around after solving an issue on my car myself. You cannot place enough value on the reward of self-accomplishment.
And lastly - if you were to actually do this repair I am sure you would discover that it is not as bad as you think/react. Just go slow and careful.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make this valuable video.
On a side note, I've read in the comment section of similar videos that removing the two transmission mounting bolts, as well as all engine mounts, gave them another four inches of motor swing to get it out of the way of the inner passenger side fender.
Comments?
@jly74 Thank you for posting the question.
So you will already have removed the Engine Torque Struts and disconnected the Passenger Side Motor mount to do the Timing Belt replacement as seen in this video. If you want to take the extra effort and disconnect the Transmission mount that would allow you more maneuverability of the engine/transmission assembly and you'd probably get a lot more room on the passenger side. HOWEVER - You would need to be very careful/cautious to properly support the entire engine/transmission assembly so it wouldn't fall or potentially move/rotate too far. You could easily start ripping hoses, wires and other components apart if the engine/transmission assembly were to rotate/drop too far. So there is the possibility it could become a nightmare...
But if you need that extra access for any reason I'd say it is not out of the question. But personally I don't feel there is the NEED for this repair.
@@PTBubbles Thanks for your response. I'm "looking forward" to this operation (belt, idler, cam/crank seals, water pump) in the near future on my 2005 Dream Cruiser Limited convertible, auto trans. 107,000 lucky miles.
Forgot to mention: it's a turbo.
@@jly74 Excellent!
The job is virtually identical on the Turbo model you just have a few more things to tend with on the intake manifold and pertaining to the Turbo and it's connections. But all in all it is not too much more work.
Set aside at least a weekend or two to get through it carefully if this is your first time doing this job. This is definitely not a task that should be rushed.
Wishing you the best!
@@PTBubbles Thanks, Jake.
I'll report back after it's completed.
Thats insane 🤦🏼♂️ very nice job 🙏🏼
I hope your brother appreciates all the work you did on this and how lucky he is to have you as a brother! Fantastic job, I really enjoyed watching everything you did!
Thanks a lot. Yes my brother definitely appreciates it and does much for me in return. We help each other out all the time. 😁
Thanks very much for your reply. Greatly appreciated.
Based on your answer, i think i will plan on spending the weekend to change out my belt. I'm kinda slow when doing mechanical jobs of this level of difficultity
Thanks again for your help. Have a wonderful day
You as well Ross. Don't hesitate to ask any questions once you get started. I'll help if I can.
Thank you very much
Just wanted to take a minute and say how helpful your video was.
Lol, it took me 15 hours to change out my timing belt, BUT, i don't think i could have done it without the excellent resource of your video. Thank you so much for making this available to the average "joe" trying to do their own maintenance.
Have a great day, i know i am since completing this massive undertaking.
@@rosskennedy1960 Nice work! Glad to hear you made it through. The timing belt is a huge task but it feels good to understand your car and know you can do the work when you get it done. Pretty satisfying to hear it start up once the job is done, right?
More videos to come on maintenance and repairs we can all do. Stay tuned
It was one of the best moments of my life in the past few years.
A real confidence booster as well
We got a deal on a 2001 Limited PT Cruiser because it needs; ignition switch parts, over heating and Timing belt unknown history, plus misc fixes needed too like Sunroof, a bit of paint work and a nice detail. I’m going to watch this video over and over again so it absorbs all the way through. Q: Is there a “Best” Timing belt kit (Amazon) to buy? Notice I did not say “Cheapest”.
@catlady8324
Congrats on the PT deal!
I typically go to Rockauto.com for most parts I need. Here are some links to parts that should help you (I'm guessing on some based on what you described as the PT needing). Should you eventually need additional parts for steering, suspension, brakes...and almost everything else I'd just stick to RockAuto unless it is one of the rare cases that they don't carry the part:
Ignition Switch:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=943191&cc=1398753&pt=4700&jsn=912
Lock Cylinder (super cool version that learns from your existing keys):
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9770160&cc=1398753&pt=10041&jsn=939
Timing Belt Kit (this version has the upgraded version 2 Mechanical Tensioner as well as the Water Pump and Camshaft Seals)
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7680820&cc=1398753&pt=5759&jsn=1040
Full Upper end Gasket kit (I prefer the FelPro kits and have not had the issue of the wrong style Cylinder Head gasket that comes in some kits):
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=446938&cc=1398753&pt=5416&jsn=1051&optionchoice=0-0-1-1
NOTE: Probably a good idea to replace the Crankshaft Front seal (you'll almost be there with the Timing Belt/Water Pump replacement and it is behind the Crankshaft Sprocket)
Oil Pan Gasket:
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=447505&cc=1398753&pt=5436&jsn=1068&optionchoice=0-0-1-1
Oil Pump (in case there are issues or low oil pressure):
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5541771&cc=1398753&pt=5564&jsn=1063
IMPORTANT EXTRAS: Here are some other videos to help you go over the entire PT making it ready and roadworthy for many years to come:
Cleaning up the Engine Wiring (grounds and positive connections):
th-cam.com/video/oXGrD9_JFKc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eSWqt-jMkrrlnJeD
Cylinder Head Gasket, Timing Belt and much more:
th-cam.com/video/k_FGSxjAo90/w-d-xo.html
Heater Core and A/C Evaporator (in case you might have leaking from either):
th-cam.com/video/k_FGSxjAo90/w-d-xo.html
6 Episode Series I made for Brakes, Suspension, Steering:
th-cam.com/video/EN89erGQUBU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=i8v2xVAMJbxkKxFm
th-cam.com/video/72WFVWLfKVw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KQFXqgwD05JNNq4S
th-cam.com/video/sYMpQVGY5Hw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0297J1JYZiZRUwL8
th-cam.com/video/HDckRsyQBAQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=E1QlQ8SiGJEV0ylt
th-cam.com/video/TEXGqvBxO1w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pHIJmEaxd_AX-DJQ
th-cam.com/video/CohqjAr_Uzw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=K5QHLLbourMCxEVY
Gas Tank & Fuel Pump Replacement:
th-cam.com/video/WrGVbdk_-II/w-d-xo.htmlsi=poqD8CZxaSZ-xkp1
Rear Liftgate (replacing the Hydraulic lift arms and the wiper grommet):
th-cam.com/video/BbKnyVSxTHo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xPFmHCw9yxgiynmn
Rear Brakes and Suspension Rebuild (Drum Brake version):
th-cam.com/video/uv7aJgFFBuo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=PymkzxtEoeGiFT9X
Good luck in keeping the PT Cruisin'!
HOLY SHOOT!!! Looks like I found the PT Cruiser EXPERT!! Thank you so much!
@@catlady8324
I ain't playin'! 😁
Amazing video PTBubbles !! Thank you so much for the detailed instructions. My Pt (2004 light turbo) doesn't yet have a snapped timing belt, but I should do it as it has 106000 miles. Problem is, I'm really debating if I should keep the car. I absolutely love it, but the rack and pinion has to be changed, and so does the alternator. And being that I should change the timing belt and water pump, it makes for a lot of repairs. Plus, I'm worried more things might go out immediately after I fix it all up. But parting with it is totally not what I'd want to do. Thanks a million PTBubbles thoug cuz you make me feel like I could possibly do the work myself, even if all I ever did was change starters and some little parts here and there.
Hello there! Believe in yourself! If you've got the tools and the time I'll bet you can do this. The Light Turbo will have a slightly different process due to the different Intake Manifold and Turbo components but otherwise the work should be identical. As long as you are careful as you go and don't rush things I'll bet you can do it and get it buttoned back up and working great. The repairs you mentioned are definitely doable and once you've done them might even be easier than you thought. One of the very nice things about PT Cruiser parts (at least at this point in time) is they are not too expensive. Here's a quick price check I just did on Rockauto for the parts you may need to do the work you described:
$130 - Gates Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1330560&cc=1432934&pt=16088&jsn=950
$89 - Enginetech full motor gasket kit: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7486752&cc=1432934&pt=10392&jsn=956
$187 (with $60 core return) - AC Delco Alternator: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1000384&cc=1432934&pt=2412&jsn=1018
$213 (with $70 core return) (Assuming you have an automatic transmission) - BBB Industries Rack & Pinion: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7038156&cc=1432934&pt=7388&jsn=1043
$140 - Mevotech Front End Kit (you need at least new Tie Rods with the new Rack & Pinion - but I'd recommend replacing all in the kit): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12746885&cc=1432934&pt=15413&jsn=1189
$38 - Sunsong Power Steering Pressure and Return Lines (you want to replace these when servicing the Power Steering/Rack & Pinion): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7659700&cc=1432934&pt=7320&jsn=1078
$800 approximately (not including fluids and any additional tools you may need) for these components. Considering that these days any time you take your car to a shop you can assume the cost will be $1000 at a minimum and you'd not get all of these parts replaced it seems like a better plan.
And here is a list of possible additional repairs you could do since you'd already be "in there":
(I'd be surprised if the motor mounts do not need to be replaced - unless you have already had those done)
$14 - SKP Upper Motor Mount: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7753412&cc=1432934&pt=5556&jsn=1133
$14 - SKP Lower Motor Mount: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7753416&cc=1432934&pt=5556&jsn=1134
$35 - Front Left CV Axle: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3856782&cc=1432934&pt=2288&jsn=874
$44 - Front Right CV Axle: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3854565&cc=1432934&pt=2288&jsn=879
$100 - FCS Struts/Coils: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4425108&cc=1432934&pt=15174&jsn=1195
$78 - SKP Oil Pump (if you are having oil pressure issues): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=13561897&cc=1432934&pt=5564&jsn=968
$6 - Front Crankshaft Seal (needed if you do the Oil Pump): www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=261114&cc=1432934&pt=5604&jsn=982&optionchoice=0-0-1-1
$5 - K&N Oil Filter: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1127576&cc=1432934&pt=5340&jsn=1094
I am working on some other front end videos now that could help you with these repairs - posting as soon as I can.
I'd be happy to help if you want to ask questions or you get stuck on anything.
Shane of PTBubbles
Great video! Very informative and spot on. It really helped me get the job done.
Thank you very much for checking it out and leaving the comment. Glad it helped.
What a nightmare of a job. Well done!
Thank you for the video, by far the best one I've seen. I guess my Wife's PT is due this service. Been dreading it for too many years. It is a 2002 (purchased summer of 2001) with only 36K miles. But 23 years old! Manuel says 100K or 10 years. Not even close on miles, far exceeds the time limit. Car still has original P/S and alternator belts and they look new. As does the entire car. Only parts that are not original on the car are filters and fluids. I have read / been told this is a clearance engine which will not damage the engine if the belt fails. Like yours??? I have also seen videos that show major valve damage when the belt fails with the engine at high RPMs non clearance engine??? It is real hard to start this tear down on a car that pretty much looks the same as it did when it left the factory. On the other hand if the engine will be badly damaged if the belt fails? I'm already on borrowed time??? Your opinion Please?
Hello and thank you for sharing the story of your wife's PT. It sounds like your wife has really taken care of the PT if the belts still look new and it only has 36k original miles! I am assuming your 2002 PT Cruiser has the 2.4L standard U.S. motor? If so, it should be a non-interference motor and the cylinder head valves and pistons should not come in contact if the belt breaks. That being said, there could always be a risk of something being damaged, especially if the belt were to break when the motor is at high RPM (such as on the highway).
The 2004 PT in this video had the belt snap while my brother was driving it in the city. Fortunately no damage occurred other than the belt itself - oh and I did discover while changing it that it was the tensioner pulley that had failed and probably what caused the belt to snap. Interestingly the person we purchased this PT from said that the belt had been replaced just 1 year before. This goes to show, in my opinion, the importance of replacing all the serviceable parts you can when you do this procedure. It is no easy task and takes time so I feel it is best to address any/all parts you can while you are in there.
You may be safe continuing to run the PT for a while still if there are no issues, but my personal preference is to try and avoid failures before they occur. I'd say it would be good to weigh the pros & cons, but if it were me I would be prepared to replace more than just the belt if I were going to do the work. Here is a small list off the top of my head of the other components that you will be very near and have the opportunity to replace if you go as far as the belt:
Tensioner Pulley
Idler Pulley
Water Pump (I'd say this is a must - it requires removing the Cam-gears/sprockets & the Timing Assembly Rear Cover as well. I will be posting another video soon of doing this work on a 2001 PT)
Upper & Lower Motor Mounts (torque struts)
Alternator and Power Steering/Air Conditioning belts
Oil change & Radiator Fluid change
IF you are having any oil leaks from the Oil Pan, Oil Pump, Oil Filter areas it would not be much more work to fix/replace gaskets/seals for those as well
I know this may seem a bit daunting just looking at it as a list, but you will have already done the bulk of the work just getting to the belt so these are definitely worth considering.
I will soon start posting more videos of doing all those steps on a 2001 PT Cruiser so that may help you decide as well.
I hope this helps - and I'd be happy to answer more questions if you have them.
Shane of PTBubbles
In the same time , it is a good idea to change water pump after pull off so much parts
Absolutely - @claudetremblay2892 has the right idea.
Hi there, I just came across your video on pt timing belt replacement...you make it seem so easy!
I am not 100% sure timing belt is the issue with my 05 PT, I unsuccessfully have thrown parts at her and took to a shop that couldn't fix either.
A friend thinks timing belt has jumped teeth.
Yeah, at 140k, a belt is needed no matter what....
Issue is, she runs fine up till 2k rpm, then she stutters and bucks like crazy, gets on down the road just fine as long as she stays under 2k rmp 😞
This sound like a timing belt issue to you?
Thanks!
@fingersofskill Thanks for stopping by and posting your question.
Even a single tooth jump can cause issues so I wouldn't necessarily rule that out.
Can I ask for a bit more info:
What parts have you already swapped/checked?
What did the shop do?
• Do you have the ability to do some testing and have some tools to diagnose?
• Sounds like fuel is flowing and that's not an issue.
• I would want to check for compression in each cylinder (will require taking off the Intake Manifold and Spark Plugs and a compression check tool). This should hopefully help diagnose if you have a blown head gasket and perhaps a cylinder not firing as a result. As you have the Intake Manifold removed I would check all gaskets as you go to make sure you have good seals and no air leaks. Check the hoses that all plug into the Intake as well for dry/cracked hoses that need to be replaced.
• While you have the Intake removed you can also do a spark test to check that the coil is sending a spark through each wire to the spark plugs.
Basically I'd go through these basic tests for fuel, air, and spark first. Let me know if this helps or if you might need more info/help.
Would it be easier to pull the engine and do the repairs outside of the car?
@dfharris03 There would be a lot more work involved to pull the motor. I would not recommend it unless you have other reasons and a need to pull the motor to do other work or repairs.
Great video. I've replaced a few timing belts in the past but this one looks to be the most complicated. The last one I did was on the wife's Neon as a preventative measure. That car's long gone...I just picked up a 2006 PT turbo convertible with 32k miles. I haven't researched this yet but your engine is clearly NOT and interference engine and I'm wondering if mine is too (2.4l Turbo) so if you know please reply.
Hello! Thanks for posting your question.
The 2.4L Inline 4 Cylinder from Chrysler is not an interference motor as you were able to discern. That includes the Turbo models as well. In fact - the Timing Belt replacement will be almost the exact same process as on the N/A model once you remove the Upper Intake Manifold and disconnect what is needed around the Turbocharger and exhaust manifold.
I have not yet recorded the Timing Belt replacement on a Turbo Model, but if you check out my channel you can at least see my reassembly of the Turbo motor I swapped into my (originally N/A) PT Cruiser. This may help guide you through what is involved on the Turbo Motor and you might be able to reverse the process so you know what to do for disassembly.
You could start here (Chapter 9: Motor Assembly Part 3)
th-cam.com/video/X5965Ur85rQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bcgp-4-E3AAtC2Th
Eventually I will post the Timing Belt replacement on a Turbo Motor start to finish but I haven't had the chance yet.
I hope this helps - best of luck as you dive in!
Shane of PTBubbles
@@PTBubbles Thanks! Takes a load off my mind.
hey ptbubbles, so I got the repair all done. However when I went to start up the engine it only revs to 4k rpm. Any ideas why it might be in limp mode? I have the turbo model and there's no check engine lights
@FrozenCalzone
Glad to hear back from you. I tried to respond to your question about the motor mount bracket and those pesky bolts but I think the comment was gone? I couldn't find it. I hope that means you figured it out. You can jack the motor UP pretty high as well and take the bolts/bracket out of the top if you need to. I've done it both from the bottom and the top.
Are you Revving in Park/Neutral or do you mean it only goes to 4k rpm while you are driving? It is normal due to the Rev limiter (set in the PCM) for the PT (N/A and Turbo) to max out around 4k while in Park/Neutral. This video here shows another PT Turbo doing this: th-cam.com/video/w9UtdRnnB1s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ieNTf5lS2Wpc2YaN
So as long as it is not having issue while driving and it idles smooth it sounds like you did a great job swapping the belt. Excellent work if so!
Let me know if the issue is present while driving and I'll see if I can help.
Shane of PTBubbles
@@PTBubblesThanks for trying to help yesterday, I figured it out. I just had to pull the engine forward a bit lol. I was unaware about the rev limiter in park/neutral and was worried that I did something wrong. Took it for a test drive and it's better than ever. About 40 miles into a road trip so it's safe to say that it's working as intended. Just wanted to thank you so much for your video and all your help!
@@FrozenCalzone This is wonderful to hear my friend! Nice work. You can say you did it and know that much more about your PT.
I hope it treats you well for many years and 1000s of miles to come. 👍
Shane of PTBubbles
Hey, great video. When you change the fuel filter, please record❤
Soon after you left this response I actually was able to record the entire process of swapping out the Fuel Pump which includes the Fuel Filter. I'll post that in the near future.
My Saturn ion 2003.. They said it would cost over $5,000 to replace due to engine failure...Fact...or Fiction
Hello - are you talking about just the Timing Belt? $5000 for a Timing Belt seems pretty ludicrous.
Or was the $5000 quote for a whole new engine? (Including labor etc.) That still seems quite high regardless.
Would need to know more info as to what exactly the quote was for.
@@PTBubbles They say timing chain broke...regardless I found a much newer car and I letting the Saturn die...She was over 22 years old/Over 266,000 miles!
Where can i find that upper timing assembly plastic cover?
Do you recommend changing the water pump being so close to that area?
I got the Timing assembly cover from modern performance.com - lots of great things there and I go there frequently.
I did not last time because of the quality of the new pump i got and now i have to go back in. It helps to know how old the pump is however it is a little more work than just the belt.
Need to replace à radiator in a 2017 dodge journey
What is the time frame for completing this timing belt replacement?
Once you have the parts, tools, and are ready to go I would give yourself a day just in case you run into anything along the way (broken parts, stripped bolts etc). If you are able to proceed without anything slowing you down then I'd say you can do the belt within 3-5 hours. Some may be able to do faster but it's always safe, when working on cars, to take your time estimate and multiply it by three for a more realistic and safe estimate.
I hope that helps.
Is it interference valves?
In short the answer is "no" IF we are talking about the DOHC 2.4L motor. There were also the SOHC 1.6L and 2.0L engines which WERE interference.
On the most common 2.4L engine the timing belt breaking will not cause the valves to impact the pistons.
You will find all kinds of answers on this if you start searching the internet - and a LOT of wrong answers.
But again - the 2.4L DOHC engine is NON-interference.
arnt these an interferance engine>?
Most PT Cruiser's have the 2.4L motor which are not interference.
They are partial interference.
My 03 wrangler has the same motor, but its not transverse. Much easier.
@bubbashubbs298 Thank you for the post! You've highly peaked my attention!
May I ask if your Wrangler has the 42RLE (rear wheel drive) transmission as well? I am looking into getting one of the 42RLE transmissions (basically the rear wheel drive version of the 41TE transmissions in the PT Cruisers). I have an extra 2.4L engine and I wanted to find one of the 42RLEs so that I could put the motor and transmission into something like an old Valiant.
@@PTBubbles Mine is a a 5 speed NV1500. The 42R(L)E was put in all 2003-2006 wranglers.
@@bubbashubbs298 Thanks for the clarification.
So you have a 2.4L 4 cylinder into the NV1500?
Yeah@@PTBubbles
Video isn't bad but you need to learn speed reading for the instructions 😅
😆
Yeah sorry for the speed - I figured YoutTube folks would pause or slow the video down themselves using the TH-cam controls.