Thanks. I've been adjusting white and black points first, then working with other tone controls. Your approach to looking at detail first makes sense to me.
I use a linear profile specific for my camera instead of the default Adobe color. This improves the detail in both the highlights and shadows prior to applying sliders. The image initially looks flat and I find I need to increase the exposure a bit and then use the saturation sliders in Calibration section. Your tutorials are always excellent and to the point. Thanks for the information on how to use these better. I will use these to better advantage after the above.
Thanks Colin, that was another very useful video. It's good to known which sliders to use first to recover the details. As always, great to watch your videos.
Thank you for a very useful video. The best 5 minutes worth for a very long time. I've used it for a few hours and it gives me excellent results every time. One rather unexpected result (and it would be interesting to know if anyone else has noticed this) is that I get a warm colour shift.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it helpful. Probably because your highlights are warm, but you couldn't see them before? You can use the eyedropper to neutralize the WB at the start
Thank you so much! I'm started amateur mobile photography in 2023 using Lightroom for an editing tool. I'm so new and slowly seeking new instruction on using it. This was so helpful 😎📸👊🔥
Very good explanation of the difference between these sliders. I use the same approach. Sometimes the dehaze slider works well at recovering information lost in sky highlights also.
Thanks. I use the Auto button to start - it selects the maximum highlight and shadow without clipping. Then I reduce vibrance and saturation to 0 (it always bumps them up). This to me is a good starting point and I find it surprisingly consistent when doing batches.
Extremely useful Colin, thanks. I use a combination of highlights/shadows/whites/blacks but I don't know why I'm using them if that makes any sense. I just mess around until I think the image has improved. You've explained it for me.
One of the things I would like to see is not compare before to after but compare “auto” with your manual adjustments. My process is to hit Auto and in almost every case, the result looks better. There are a few instances where it doesn’t so I hit undo. After auto, I do what you suggest - working top to bottom but I’m tweaking after auto has already made its adjustments.
Auto is a great starting point and I've done tuts on it before (and probably will again) A couple of reasons I didn't do as you suggested (apart for the obvious, this isn't the only tutorial I've done). 1. Auto also changes the white balance and Sat/Vibrance (one reason it looks better initially). We aren't doing color in this short and simple tut. 2. If I just pressed auto, it wouldn't be much of a lesson as people wouldn't learn what each slider does. Remember, my goal here isn't to fix my photo (I already know how to do that) It's to teach others and help them understand editing.
Thanks. I've been adjusting white and black points first, then working with other tone controls. Your approach to looking at detail first makes sense to me.
Glad to help
Nah; you have it right.
Gracias
Great tutorial as always, for the tip at 00:30s if you hold the Opt/Alt key while resizing the panel it can go much further and wider..
Good tip!
Excellente tutorial very helpful thanks
I find all your videos to. be great. I would love to see you do a complete fix on this photo as I have been starting to do drone photography.
Maybe not this specific one, but Ill do a full walkthrough soon
I use a linear profile specific for my camera instead of the default Adobe color. This improves the detail in both the highlights and shadows prior to applying sliders. The image initially looks flat and I find I need to increase the exposure a bit and then use the saturation sliders in Calibration section. Your tutorials are always excellent and to the point. Thanks for the information on how to use these better. I will use these to better advantage after the above.
Thanks Colin, that was another very useful video. It's good to known which sliders to use first to recover the details. As always, great to watch your videos.
I like the idea of thinking of the highlight and shadow as recovery sliders. Thanks for the helpful video.
You're welcome
Thank you for a very useful video. The best 5 minutes worth for a very long time. I've used it for a few hours and it gives me excellent results every time. One rather unexpected result (and it would be interesting to know if anyone else has noticed this) is that I get a warm colour shift.
Thanks, I'm glad you found it helpful. Probably because your highlights are warm, but you couldn't see them before? You can use the eyedropper to neutralize the WB at the start
Love your tutes. Only beginner with LR & enjoying learning so much😁
Happy you are learning
Thanks Colin! You consistently produce some of the best content available on TH-cam... Love this panel specific approach🙂
Thanks so much. Happy to help
Well done as always...what's new for me is the alt key revealing the clipped area....Thank you again
Thank you so much! I'm started amateur mobile photography in 2023 using Lightroom for an editing tool. I'm so new and slowly seeking new instruction on using it. This was so helpful 😎📸👊🔥
Very good explanation of the difference between these sliders. I use the same approach. Sometimes the dehaze slider works well at recovering information lost in sky highlights also.
Dehaze is great for clouds, my favoriate
Thank you, good lesson.
Absolutely useful, will be looking for more tips from this channel, thanks!
Thank you for explaining the effect of these sliders - gave me a much greater understanding & will change how I edit!
So glad it helped
Happy New Year Colin, best wishes from Uruguay!
Happy New Year back
Great explanation. I hope to see more of Lightroom CC vs Classic.
That was great! Thank You!
These are excellent tips and certainly fit into our workflow. Thanks kindly.
Happy to help
I’ve been using this technique but you added some aspects that will be very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks. I use the Auto button to start - it selects the maximum highlight and shadow without clipping. Then I reduce vibrance and saturation to 0 (it always bumps them up). This to me is a good starting point and I find it surprisingly consistent when doing batches.
Good workflow
Thank you so much. Please can you teach about Selective colors in photoshop?
I'll put that on the idea list!
@@photoshopcafe thank you!
Thx Colin, very clear !
I like this Colin. Thank you.
Thanks
Extremely useful Colin, thanks. I use a combination of highlights/shadows/whites/blacks but I don't know why I'm using them if that makes any sense. I just mess around until I think the image has improved. You've explained it for me.
Glad to save you some time
another great video... thanx for your TIME !! ;)
One of the things I would like to see is not compare before to after but compare “auto” with your manual adjustments. My process is to hit Auto and in almost every case, the result looks better. There are a few instances where it doesn’t so I hit undo. After auto, I do what you suggest - working top to bottom but I’m tweaking after auto has already made its adjustments.
Auto is a great starting point and I've done tuts on it before (and probably will again) A couple of reasons I didn't do as you suggested (apart for the obvious, this isn't the only tutorial I've done).
1. Auto also changes the white balance and Sat/Vibrance (one reason it looks better initially). We aren't doing color in this short and simple tut.
2. If I just pressed auto, it wouldn't be much of a lesson as people wouldn't learn what each slider does. Remember, my goal here isn't to fix my photo (I already know how to do that) It's to teach others and help them understand editing.
Same for me. Auto has become a lot better with recent updates and usually provides a very good starting point.
@@bluehourbill It is very useful
AS usual, a very good tutorial.
thx
Thanks, very informative.
Ian
Happy New Year Colin and thanks for your videos ......
Happy New year
Great tutorial, Colin - thank you so much! 🙂
glad to help
thank you
Great Video!
thx
Great video
Nice simple and useful. Thanks
Glad it's easy and useful
Nice tutorial. Most helpful. On an image such as this I follow basically your approach; except I try a little dehaze as a very first step.
Dehaze is great too, especially in skies
Wonderful tips, in 5 mins it helps a lot. I did some try and result is good. Then just need to fine-tune or use masks for details.
Glad its helping
Well done...Good information. Very image dependent.
Yes, as are all editing tutorials.
Thank u sir
Another great video mate
Thanks
Increasing (not decreasing) contrast increases dynamic range
I religiously start with wp and bp to start with the broadest dynamic range. I might reduce the range later but I always start with the most.
Interesting. If you compare WB with SH you will notice the latter reveals very much more dynamic range. This is what Thomas Knoll designed SH for.
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but I have literally sat in a room with Thomas Knoll as he explained this.
I didn't take it the wrong way. I'll work a couple with recovery first and see how it goes. Thanks.@@photoshopcafe
@@86BBUB Great! I'd love to know how it goes
Thank you, got some things to try. Great channel!
thanks
Thanks Colin .. but what happened to Dehaze? ..
This isn't meant to be a comprehensive Lightroom tutorial, just the tone module.
Let’s go Colin!
Pretty solid basic info on editing, 👌
I can tell I need to move the contrast slider both left and right not just right. Thanks
Look at my recent tutorial on contrast, it ties in with this
When would you use dehaze?
After these steps. Maybe Ill do a separate video on Dehaze soon? But its especially good for skies
Highlights and shadows are for recovery. Boom easy to understand.
❤
👋👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏
👍🤝
Wrongly