Great way to dry hop without opening up your fermenter is to use magnets to hold your hop bag above the wort. Then when its time to dry hop you just remove the outside magnet. I am using that method right now for a NEIPA.
I always leave a little pressure in the keg. When I connect the posts with tubing to fermenter drain and to return CO2 I use that pressure to purge those as well!
Curios on hopp utilization ..... what is recommendations max oz per gallon on whirlpool add and same for dry hop. What is max oz per gallon for dry hopp an what if you double dry hop can you you do two doses of max amount or so split max
Never had oxidation while adding dry hops. What the heck are people doing? Opening the fermenter and just like walking around their house for a few hours before dropping the hops in?
I dont know if this is a good way but I always add my hops in the yeast collector of my fermenter. I purge the yeast collector with co2 and put the hops in there and then shoot them in my keg. Always worked for me! Only problem im having is that the dry hop is not leaving a really hoppy taste.. I used 30 grams of hop for a 5 liter batch and the hop didnt leave any nice hoppy flavor.. Maybe I dry hopped too late.. who knows! Cheers!
@@GenusBrewing Just tasted the first bottle today; turned out pretty good, thanks. It was a mini-mash version of ClawHammerSupply's Single Hop Lemon Drop recipe.
Hi guys! Why do you think Columbus is not good for whirlpool use in hazy beers? Went through the "The New IPA" by Scott Janish and in there are findings like for example, Columbus appears to be a great hop to utilise in the whirlpool to boost desirable monoterpene alcohols in the fermenting vessel. Whereas Simcoe tested lower for its ability to tranfer these compounds.
I personally use it just not as my main hop (logan avoids it) but I like to balance it with fruitier hops when using such high quantities (6-8oz) to avoid an extra "bite" that it can give - which some people don't mind and I see in a lot of great hazies, but to me it is distracting. Another thing to think about when high monoterpenes are in the beer is how they turn out will be more yeast-dependant than other hop compounds because of secondary biotransformative activity like the reduction of linalool and geraniol. Definitely could just be personal preference and bias towards the juicy/hazy beers we make though :p
On a Brulosophy podcast with hop chemistry guru Scott Janish they mentioned the idea that adjuncts such as oats added manganese which is a big contributor to oxidation. You guys have any input on that potential issue?
I have a sneaking suspicion that our method of ascorbic acid in mash (rather than package like most studies suggest) reduces the potential for ROS in beer going into fermentation and package - but there is still a lot of shaky science out there when it comes to the chemistry of oxidation in beer so I don't try to get too into it in our videos.
@@GenusBrewing I had also read someone recommending that too, which I may be trying in addition to leaving out oats this time. I have a pretty simple setup with no option to upgrade right now, so am trying some recommendations to see if I can avoid or reduce oxidation next time.
Wish I saw this video before brewing my hazy DIPA yesterday; the tip about not mashing too high would have helped a lot! I was shooting for 1.073 OG and only got 1.050. I think this came down to me mashing at 155, instead of something lower. While my grain bill was fairly large with base grain for conversion, I think this high temp really caused me to take a hit with conversion of the adjuncts. Oh well, guess I'll just have to enjoy a session IPA instead. I'll be trying 145 for the next batch-Thanks Genus!
unfortunately you havent answered the questions about ascorbic acid so i would like to ask again. When, how and how much? And many say ascorbic acid can turn into a superoxidizer without SO2. What do you think?
We do 3-5g in mash - some pro breweries do ascorbic during package. The h202 thing is loose science that come from the wine world where natural sulfers are less abundant. In the mash it would never be a problem anyway because the ascorbic gets used during boil to make some other stabilizing compounds.
Slowly narrowing in on my perfected NEIPA, just need to do water profiling/correcting now. But, I use a little light munich and CaraBlonde, both 8°L or less. Should be kegging tomorrow, and if the color ends up too dark; I'll pull them next time. Using a super fruity home-blend of kveik strains with a pound of galaxy and mosaic hops. A lot of the mosaic is "American Noble" type so all the flavor with little bitterness for the whirlpool.
Lodo process HS and CS throughout is a good idea for any ipa, it doesn’t take much more equipment, mash cap, spunding, SMB and some gentle process all the way to the glass
@@timmydeee I've been doing 3-5g in the mash. it doesn't get broken down by heat, dissolves completely and doesn't have a taste. it's drastically improved my ipa game.
What are "highly enzymatic base malts"? I've tried to make out what you say at around 6 minutes, some malt you use but I can't figure it out. Is it something like the Viking Malt Enzyme Malt?
@@GenusBrewing Ah I see, thanks a lot for the reply! Going to make a neipa in the weekend and going to try some of your tips here, ascorbic acid being one. Cheers for a good video.
I have a citra session IPA kit (1 gallon) that I want to make a hazy. I planned on dry hopping after 7 days of fermentation. I normally bottle condition at 14 days of fermentation (per the instructions with the recipe). Any suggestions on what I can do to make this a Hazy IPA? The kit has Briess Golden Light dried malt, not sure what grains are included...it just says "Kama Citra Small Batch Grains." It has Cascade, Centennial and Citra hops. I planned to put in more dry Citra hops at the 7 day mark (7-8 grams). I've had success so far with other recipes and 1-gallon batches...and a few that didn't come out as planned.
Neipas are ok. Id rather have a saison any day but i brew neipas with kveik to share with friends. Speeds things up and seems to do best on homebrew scale. Also bottle conditioning works great for me. I use way less hops and it tastes great. Also do session strength. Very tired of super hoppy alcohol bombs.
great video guys, just one thing I didn't get is the amount of hops to use... I'm brewing a imperial ipa, batch size 4liter, only using hops from whirlpool. you were talking about oz's but I didn't get your batch size? so I can't calculate the amount I need. gr thijs, love your channel
It definitely has a solid impact - but we didnt want to break too much into profile and instead wanted to focus on some technique stuff. If you look at our Best Hazy vid we did about a month ago we talk a bit about what water profile we use for these styles :)
@@GenusBrewing another question lol. I heard you cover max hop exposure during the whirlpool. Whats the best way to get max exposure while dryhopping? I usually bag them but I know some people throw them directly in the fermenter....but I don't they eventually sink into the trub? That wouldn't get good exposure right? Also, I don't use a secondary. Please help.
I have had no problems putting out great NEIPAS with nice hop flavor. But having trouble getting to that next level of that huge dank hop forwardness. Like a Substance or Heady Topper. My water and mash PH is always spot on. From what you guys are saying in the video it seems like the whirlpool addition is going to be the biggest hop punch to the brew. Any more advice?
A trick we use is to double up on the whirlpool by sending the beer through a hop-back (hop rocket) on it's way to the fermenter (before the counter flow chiller) with whole leaf hops.
Great video; thanks! One question for a newbie....I have made several beers so far, and cold crashed each one with good results. Gut feel tells me that I shouldn't be cold crashing a Hazy IPA, but am a bit worried about the dry hop (pellet) residue left in the beer. Is this part of the haze, or should I cold crash it and remove some of the haze prior to bottling?
Great info! What about the quantity of dry hops and hop burn? When putting dry hops into active fermentation you will get a massive hop burn pretty sure... I have had this in all of my NEIPAS so far. Do you just let the beer sit for 2+ weeks before drinking it or what is you strategy against hop burn?
Just realized that the recipe I was going for had chinook :) Also dropped the 60min addition, let's see how that turns out! Btw. nailing the 150F is pretty easy with BierBot Bricks!
I was wondering why my last hazy didn't turn out well. Smelled amazing after the whirlpool hopping and when opening the fermenter to dry hop, but after dry hopping for 3 days and then transferring to a keg the beer had a harsh bitterness to it that wasn't there prior to dry hopping. Might have caused this by adding some First Gold and Amarillo in addition to El Dorado and Mosaic hops? It was a "get rid of excess supplies" kind of brew so just went with whatever I had left.
If the hops were already slightly oxidized that could have done it - when I have older hops I usually just toss them in earlier additions or save them for Stouts.
diacetyl and VDKs are huge precursors to oxidation. I agree with most of the things you say here, but rushing the beer through fermentation could result in these precursors remaining in the beer.
About adding ascorbic acid, how many times can I add that in 1 5 gallon batch? I saw you guy said adding about 3 gram somewhere during the boiling. Can I add more during my dry hop step because my equipment can not avoid exposure to oxygen?
So, 10 days into keg, assuming good pitch and correct procedures, there won't be any diacetyl left? Or leave the keg at room temp for a few days before carb and chill?
Yep - with good healthy pitch and an appropriately timed Dry hop Diacetyl shouldn't be a problem. If the beer isn't fully finished going into the keg though definitely let it sit a couple more days warm before crashing (we do that plenty) - being in a closed system will help the beer retain aromatics from the hops so it's a safer vessel than your fermenter.
Great video! I've been having generally good success with dry hopping during active fermentation. I do find as the yeast flocs out it strips a lot of the hop aroma with it. The more floculent the yeast, the more hop aroma is stripped as the beer clears. I'm extremely careful about oxygen exposure, and the loss of hopiness is definitely not oxidation. Aren't you better off dry hopping on brighter beer rather than yeasty beer so the hop oils remain in suspension? Any opinions on keg hopping? Or is this a bad idea since the beer stays on tbe hops until the keg is kicked?
I just brewed my first beer and it was a juicy bits clone .. the recipe called for two weeks from grain to bottling..I kegged it. During carbonation I force carbed it @30psi for close to 30 hrs and tried a sample pour..it looks really cloudy and has alot of yeast floating in it although the color is beautiful and it tastes great! Would this be cause it was not proper temp and or carbed all the way? Or do I need to condition it for a bit? Like I said lots of white proteins floating and slight sediment on the bottom of the glass. Or is all of this normal?
Great video! I recently made a hazy and the beer looked fantastic when going into the bottle (thick, hazy, golden yellow) but after 5 days of conditioning it's already cleared up considerably and I can clearly see through the glass with only minor haze. Could this be a result of my mash ingredients/technique?
Definitly could be either of those. Oat malt is a great way to ensure at least a nice oily look to the beer (especially when doubled with huge hop additions)
I know this seems contradictory to “sound” brewing practices, but don’t use any kettle finings on your hazy ales. Use 30-40% high protein adjuncts in the mash, no kettle finings, and your beer should be cloudy af until the last drop.
Thank you for the great info! Do you guys recommend doing a protein rest to break down some of the medium and long chain proteins before the saccharification (starch conversion) step? I am planning a 20 minute rest at 130 before stepping up to about 148 for 60-90 minutes. I don't want to produce a thin beer or remove any haze, but I was curious your thoughts on adding this in? Thanks!
Great video! I recently completed a NEIPA batch and turned out great. Great juicy flavor I was shooting for, bottle conditioned. Over time though as it matured has become increasingly bitter. Any ideas why or how to avoid this? I will be introducing ascorbic acid in my next batch...
If you Dry Hop at the right time and don't crash your beer too soon after then you should be ok (although that's something we prolly should have talked about in this vid)
Kind of depends - we often still boil for 60minutes just to get better efficiency/higher gravity, but there are plenty of them we've done with 15minute boils that have turned out great.
General (old-school) brewing guidelines would dictate that in order to get a higher dextrin content of brew you would mash at the higher range 156-160. But because there is a large percentage of non-fermentable proteins you want to mash in the low 140s, no higher than 148, for at least the first 30-45m, you can then go to 158f, then mash-out. It seems counter-intuitive, but, we're not dealing with a normal beer with the same diastatic ability. Secondly, a beer like this really only needs 30m at most of boiling because of the malt being used your really not going to produce DMS, and what is produced will likely be scrubbed by the yeast.
Thank you for the advice with the whirlpool. However, how do you manage to expose the hops inside the whirlpool for only 20 minutes? Do you pour and filter the wort in the fermenter afterwards and let it chill down in the there before adding the yeast or do you use hop bags which you add in the whirlpool?
Hey! This video was very helpful. First time doing a NEIPA…Do you have a preferred time when to add the ascorbic acid (vit c) and also how much of it? Finally, I have a spike flex fermenter but I dont have how to transfer under pressure. I am transferring to keg via gravity. Any recommendations there to avoid oxygen? Thanks again!!!
I am by no means an expert brewer, but I believe the whole anxiety for getting oxygen in the beer is overrated. If you transfer to keg via gravity, just try to not splash the beer in and it will most likely be fine. Ofcourse there is oxygen in the keg initially. But oxygen does not dissolve that quickly into your beer without (a lot of) agitation. Besides, CO2 is a heavier gas and so it will sink below the air and drive it out as well. Source: am biotechnologist, so basically studied oxygen and CO2 transfer to liquids
I use Kveik voss a ton for Hazies, I haven't gone into Dry hopping yet for it as hasn't been needed but want to try. I usually have full fermentation in 24-36 hours at 39'c. Would dry hopping at 24 hours for 48 be what I'm looking for?
I’ve also heard that if you’re bottle conditioning that it’s best to only do so until it’s carbed and no longer to maintain freshness. Would you guys agree with this?
I love your guys’ videos. They’ve helped me so much recently in my fermenting/kegging process. But my question is why does my dry hop aroma fade so quickly from fermenter to keg? After closed transfer and double dry hop with 6oz of azacca/citra for 5 days, I have basically no hop aroma coming off the tap. What gives? Ideas?
Guys, why should I not use Vienna malt in my hazy ipa? I'm currently having 10% of vienna in my recipe (combined with pils, pale ale and flaked oats) and still get a pretty light yellow colour. My goal was to get a nice sweet taste coming from vienna.
Caramel Sweetness or Maillard Reaction flavours are not a desired flavors in NEIPAs. But if you're not get those flavours in your beer or you're getting them but you actually enjoy your beer in that way you should still add it nonetheless. If you're trying to get your beer to competitions tough it might get less points if those flavours get trough, it might even be considered off-style. NEIPA sweetness should come from not fully attenuating your beer and slight estery profile (enfasis on slight) provided by fermentation. At least that's how I see it.
1.010 is the bottom end of the style, but you can definitely still have some sweet flavors with that dry of an FG. With 40% of your malt being thiccc adjunct though, even with a low mash temp it will hard to get down that low.
Spent a year brewing hazys because they weren't available in my neck of the woods at that time and took me that long to realize I don't really dig em. Did tons of research and followed all the techniques. Even did some experiments with yeast just to brulosophize the haze factor and they were still ended up with an neipa. I occasionally still try them since they became the thing and the cool thing is I actually nailed it, sadly they just aren't my bag. Actually I'm just tired of them. West coast is where its at. Cheers!
@@daver4481 I don't believe Brulosophy have looked at ascorbic acid yet... SMB definitely, along with various approaches to purging etc. I am waiting for them to run it as I am skeptical on its usefulness.
you guys dropping bombs here💣 can’t wait to empty my unitanks to brew my next neipa for the Arizonian summer! i just brewed a beer with a pilsner grain bill, a neipa whirlpool cryohops addition, threw 001 to it, let it naturally carbonate it and it tastes like a sesh neipa! It’s cold crashing now, so it will lose its hazy color, but the aroma is just intense as a neipa! what do you guys think about Modern Times hazy ipas btw?
Nice! I love session beer with big flavor. I'm a fan of Modern Times (they make great beer), but I don't fanboy over them like a lot of people do. I've had plenty of better beers from lesser known breweries - granted I haven't been to the brewery itself so I'll have to give them a fresh take when I can make it in there to try their best/freshest stuff.
Genus Brewing interesting, very interesting actually MT are very solid in California, especially in San Diego Definitely gotta try more of the northwestern breweries out there then, cheers guys🍻
What step in the process are you adding ascorbic acid? I added SMB to a NEIPA recently and it turned into a sulfur bomb. I think would have been just fine without it, but wanted to try.
I've never used it, but logically it would come after fermentation since the yeast will be using the oxygen available in the wort. I would guess you can add it during transfer to your brite tank or keg, which would require a method for oxygen free injection. You should also be able add it during bottling or canning. I think what I would do is boil some water to deaerate it, dissolve the proper amount of ascorbic acid into that solution, then add it to a small purged and pressurized container. Hook that container up to my carbonating vessel and inject the solution before filling the vessel with my beer. Should end up mixing well while filling said vessel without introducing any oxygen. You could also just pour it into whatever your filling before hand and try to purge with CO2 only, but that will require more CO2 for a complete purge. I typically fill my kegs with sanitizer and push all that out with CO2 which requires much less CO2 to purge the keg and is more effective.
A bit weird thing to say that yeast doesn't have a big impact for this style? I would say NEIPA's are very yeast driven style. And you actually made a side by side video with Imperial Yeast strains (Citrus and Julius), and said it to have clearly different flavor and overall differences. It was a Milkshake IPA in that video, but still the point is valid. Good tips, but in my opinion very careless and a stretch to say that the yeast is least impactful part of the style.
Best advice for those who bottle condition is to avoid a bottling bucket. Add your sugar, conditioning yeast (if applicable), and your finished beer directly to bottles. A fermenter with a spigot doesn't hurt either.
For sure - people bottling just have to be ok with a little extra sediment in their bottles unless they have a conical or something similar (or at least the spigot so they can rack under pressure.)
Great video guys, can’t wait to make less mistakes on my brew day coming up haha One question, some recipes have two dry hop additions, one at two days another at 7... any advantage to this or do you recommend just the one at high krausen? Cheers!
They are for two different things. At high krausen you are trying to get biotransformation. For a NEIPA, I would think the first dry hop at high krausen is more important. I have a citra hopped session mead that just finished where I did both. It's WORTH doing both, for the flavor depth, but not 100% necessary. Just don't leave the beer on the hops too long, as mentioned at the end of the video.
Hey Jabrones, lol, how much Idleberg, sorry for the spelling, do you add for a 5 gallon batch? You guys are awesome. Long time viewer out here in Cali.
Great Info! - Only Thing I'll Personally Disagree with is Bitterness in Hazies because that Actually Loving Hazies with Bite! Monkish being the first that comes to mind! Not Sure How Or When they're Hop Additions go in but 99% of they're Beers aren't Juice Bombs, they have this Distinct Monkish Bite! Love It! 🤙🍻
Great way to dry hop without opening up your fermenter is to use magnets to hold your hop bag above the wort. Then when its time to dry hop you just remove the outside magnet. I am using that method right now for a NEIPA.
Wow this is genius!
Doesnt it get a metalic flavour?
I wrap them in plastic wrap but I have seen others who use a stir plate magnet as well.
@@tjarligdrengen you can get magnets covered in plastic or just keep the magnet itself in a ziploc bag
Would leaving it in the fermenter above the wort in a warm fermenter ruin the hop flavors and freshness?
I always leave a little pressure in the keg. When I connect the posts with tubing to fermenter drain and to return CO2 I use that pressure to purge those as well!
Curios on hopp utilization ..... what is recommendations max oz per gallon on whirlpool add and same for dry hop. What is max oz per gallon for dry hopp an what if you double dry hop can you you do two doses of max amount or so split max
How do you use the ascorbic acid when brewing? What is the quantity needed and at what stage in the brewing process?
is there an answer to be expected soon? Would love it!
Never had oxidation while adding dry hops. What the heck are people doing? Opening the fermenter and just like walking around their house for a few hours before dropping the hops in?
I dont know if this is a good way but I always add my hops in the yeast collector of my fermenter. I purge the yeast collector with co2 and put the hops in there and then shoot them in my keg. Always worked for me!
Only problem im having is that the dry hop is not leaving a really hoppy taste.. I used 30 grams of hop for a 5 liter batch and the hop didnt leave any nice hoppy flavor.. Maybe I dry hopped too late.. who knows!
Cheers!
So should I strain my hops out of the boil kettle. Sorry I am new
Good timing as I just brewed one up today. Think I will follow the advice and shorten up my fermentation time.
Let us know how it turns out for you!
@@GenusBrewing Just tasted the first bottle today; turned out pretty good, thanks. It was a mini-mash version of ClawHammerSupply's Single Hop Lemon Drop recipe.
How much absorb acid/5 gal batch? Best time to add?
4-5g at mash, and 0.2g at kegging. Source: a different Genus Brewing video. Can't remember which one.
Hi guys! Why do you think Columbus is not good for whirlpool use in hazy beers? Went through the "The New IPA" by Scott Janish and in there are findings like for example, Columbus appears to be a great hop to utilise in the whirlpool to boost desirable monoterpene alcohols in the fermenting vessel. Whereas Simcoe tested lower for its ability to tranfer these compounds.
Agreed. Columbus is great. Trillium uses Columbus for all pre-DH additions in their mainstays. Most people think they make pretty good hazies.
I personally use it just not as my main hop (logan avoids it) but I like to balance it with fruitier hops when using such high quantities (6-8oz) to avoid an extra "bite" that it can give - which some people don't mind and I see in a lot of great hazies, but to me it is distracting. Another thing to think about when high monoterpenes are in the beer is how they turn out will be more yeast-dependant than other hop compounds because of secondary biotransformative activity like the reduction of linalool and geraniol. Definitely could just be personal preference and bias towards the juicy/hazy beers we make though :p
How many days should hops be in the fermenter when dry hopping a NEIPA.
I thought mash temp 152 to 156 was for best conversion? Or is it different when using a lot of high adjunct malts?
can you expand on ascorbic acid regarding how much to add and when?
Have the ever addressed the fact that Ascorbic denatures at 30 C.
@@tylerb6081 that shouldn’t be an issue. The temp shouldn’t ever get that high in a hazy
Expand? Or do you mean expound?
On a Brulosophy podcast with hop chemistry guru Scott Janish they mentioned the idea that adjuncts such as oats added manganese which is a big contributor to oxidation. You guys have any input on that potential issue?
I have a sneaking suspicion that our method of ascorbic acid in mash (rather than package like most studies suggest) reduces the potential for ROS in beer going into fermentation and package - but there is still a lot of shaky science out there when it comes to the chemistry of oxidation in beer so I don't try to get too into it in our videos.
@@GenusBrewing I had also read someone recommending that too, which I may be trying in addition to leaving out oats this time. I have a pretty simple setup with no option to upgrade right now, so am trying some recommendations to see if I can avoid or reduce oxidation next time.
Wish I saw this video before brewing my hazy DIPA yesterday; the tip about not mashing too high would have helped a lot! I was shooting for 1.073 OG and only got 1.050. I think this came down to me mashing at 155, instead of something lower. While my grain bill was fairly large with base grain for conversion, I think this high temp really caused me to take a hit with conversion of the adjuncts. Oh well, guess I'll just have to enjoy a session IPA instead.
I'll be trying 145 for the next batch-Thanks Genus!
unfortunately you havent answered the questions about ascorbic acid so i would like to ask again.
When, how and how much?
And many say ascorbic acid can turn into a superoxidizer without SO2. What do you think?
We do 3-5g in mash - some pro breweries do ascorbic during package. The h202 thing is loose science that come from the wine world where natural sulfers are less abundant. In the mash it would never be a problem anyway because the ascorbic gets used during boil to make some other stabilizing compounds.
@@GenusBrewing perfect, im doing 20 L (5gl) batches. how much would that be?
how do you reduce or eliminate hop burn in NEIPAs?
Slowly narrowing in on my perfected NEIPA, just need to do water profiling/correcting now. But, I use a little light munich and CaraBlonde, both 8°L or less. Should be kegging tomorrow, and if the color ends up too dark; I'll pull them next time.
Using a super fruity home-blend of kveik strains with a pound of galaxy and mosaic hops. A lot of the mosaic is "American Noble" type so all the flavor with little bitterness for the whirlpool.
Lodo process HS and CS throughout is a good idea for any ipa, it doesn’t take much more equipment, mash cap, spunding, SMB and some gentle process all the way to the glass
I shall try the ascorbic acid trick some day but what dosage do you recommend for a keg's worth of beer?
3-5g is plenty but it has a high flavor threshold so you can add more for sure without too much risk
@@GenusBrewing Just sprinkled into the mash? Or added to mash water if doing full volume BIAB?.....How much does this change mash ph? Thank you!!
@@kylekaiz 0.1g/litre i sufficient. Pitch with yeast or when dry hopping or, if you bottle condition, with your priming solution. Don't boll it.
If you're really curious about yeast, a good default choice is Wyeast 1318. Typically very easy to find and performs well.
so.. ascorbic acid, i hear you guys mention it again... yet, no details, when do you add it? how much? temp? etc.
Add 0.3 grams sodium or potassium metabisulfite or 1 tsp ascorbic acid / 5 gallons at packaging. Both are reducing agents.
Mentioned in one of the Sunday session videos recently, maybe 3 weeks ago...
@@timmydeee I've been doing 3-5g in the mash. it doesn't get broken down by heat, dissolves completely and doesn't have a taste. it's drastically improved my ipa game.
@@bbqribz570 is that for a 20L batch I presume? I'm looking to try with this to see if I can reduce oxidation issues.
@@daver4481 try 2grams for every 10litr of beer. just before botteling.
What are "highly enzymatic base malts"? I've tried to make out what you say at around 6 minutes, some malt you use but I can't figure it out. Is it something like the Viking Malt Enzyme Malt?
Heidelberg Malt is our go-to (High-enzyme super-pilsner malt made by Best Malz)
@@GenusBrewing Ah I see, thanks a lot for the reply! Going to make a neipa in the weekend and going to try some of your tips here, ascorbic acid being one. Cheers for a good video.
I have a citra session IPA kit (1 gallon) that I want to make a hazy. I planned on dry hopping after 7 days of fermentation. I normally bottle condition at 14 days of fermentation (per the instructions with the recipe). Any suggestions on what I can do to make this a Hazy IPA? The kit has Briess Golden Light dried malt, not sure what grains are included...it just says "Kama Citra Small Batch Grains." It has Cascade, Centennial and Citra hops. I planned to put in more dry Citra hops at the 7 day mark (7-8 grams). I've had success so far with other recipes and 1-gallon batches...and a few that didn't come out as planned.
Neipas are ok. Id rather have a saison any day but i brew neipas with kveik to share with friends. Speeds things up and seems to do best on homebrew scale. Also bottle conditioning works great for me. I use way less hops and it tastes great. Also do session strength. Very tired of super hoppy alcohol bombs.
great video guys, just one thing I didn't get is the amount of hops to use... I'm brewing a imperial ipa, batch size 4liter, only using hops from whirlpool. you were talking about oz's but I didn't get your batch size? so I can't calculate the amount I need. gr thijs, love your channel
Great information you guys. What about water profile impact on these kind of beers? thanks
It definitely has a solid impact - but we didnt want to break too much into profile and instead wanted to focus on some technique stuff. If you look at our Best Hazy vid we did about a month ago we talk a bit about what water profile we use for these styles :)
When you are talking about the amount of ounces of hops, how many gallons or liters of beer are we talking about? I want to brew 100 liters.
How much rice hulls do yal use for a 5gal batch?
1/2 lb
@@GenusBrewing thanks!
@@GenusBrewing another question lol. I heard you cover max hop exposure during the whirlpool. Whats the best way to get max exposure while dryhopping? I usually bag them but I know some people throw them directly in the fermenter....but I don't they eventually sink into the trub? That wouldn't get good exposure right? Also, I don't use a secondary. Please help.
I have had no problems putting out great NEIPAS with nice hop flavor. But having trouble getting to that next level of that huge dank hop forwardness. Like a Substance or Heady Topper. My water and mash PH is always spot on. From what you guys are saying in the video it seems like the whirlpool addition is going to be the biggest hop punch to the brew. Any more advice?
A trick we use is to double up on the whirlpool by sending the beer through a hop-back (hop rocket) on it's way to the fermenter (before the counter flow chiller) with whole leaf hops.
Should I use a hop spider when I whirlpool?
I use a brewzilla 35l with whirlpool attachment and 14” hop spider.
Great video; thanks! One question for a newbie....I have made several beers so far, and cold crashed each one with good results. Gut feel tells me that I shouldn't be cold crashing a Hazy IPA, but am a bit worried about the dry hop (pellet) residue left in the beer. Is this part of the haze, or should I cold crash it and remove some of the haze prior to bottling?
Great info! What about the quantity of dry hops and hop burn? When putting dry hops into active fermentation you will get a massive hop burn pretty sure... I have had this in all of my NEIPAS so far. Do you just let the beer sit for 2+ weeks before drinking it or what is you strategy against hop burn?
Same question
How much absorbing acid per 5 gal batch? When to pitch ???
3-5g is plenty (though you can go more safely) and the technically right time to add is packaging, however we add in mash with great success
What about cold crashing? Yes or not necessary?
are you recommending to filter out the hops of your whirlpool when adding to the fermenter?
Yes!
Also do you cool your wort some and then do your whirlpool ? Or as soon as the flame goes out toss in your hops ?
Just realized that the recipe I was going for had chinook :) Also dropped the 60min addition, let's see how that turns out! Btw. nailing the 150F is pretty easy with BierBot Bricks!
Software is pretty cool, we‘re using it, too!
Let us know how it goes!
Hey guys - how much ascorbic acid would you put in and when should you put it in please?
also... do you need more alpha amalyse or beta/gluco amalyse for this style of beer?
very good tips, can you guys talk about water chemistry ad water profile ... thanks
What highly enzymatic malt did you say you used for hazy's? Thanks. Great stuff.
Dudes love sorry I missed your live stream this morning,,, yours is on at 1:30 in the morning here in Australia??
Dangit time zones!
Love the reviews, guys! Keep em coming!! We should have you on our show one of these days!
I was wondering why my last hazy didn't turn out well. Smelled amazing after the whirlpool hopping and when opening the fermenter to dry hop, but after dry hopping for 3 days and then transferring to a keg the beer had a harsh bitterness to it that wasn't there prior to dry hopping. Might have caused this by adding some First Gold and Amarillo in addition to El Dorado and Mosaic hops? It was a "get rid of excess supplies" kind of brew so just went with whatever I had left.
If the hops were already slightly oxidized that could have done it - when I have older hops I usually just toss them in earlier additions or save them for Stouts.
diacetyl and VDKs are huge precursors to oxidation. I agree with most of the things you say here, but rushing the beer through fermentation could result in these precursors remaining in the beer.
About adding ascorbic acid, how many times can I add that in 1 5 gallon batch? I saw you guy said adding about 3 gram somewhere during the boiling. Can I add more during my dry hop step because my equipment can not avoid exposure to oxygen?
So, 10 days into keg, assuming good pitch and correct procedures, there won't be any diacetyl left? Or leave the keg at room temp for a few days before carb and chill?
Yep - with good healthy pitch and an appropriately timed Dry hop Diacetyl shouldn't be a problem. If the beer isn't fully finished going into the keg though definitely let it sit a couple more days warm before crashing (we do that plenty) - being in a closed system will help the beer retain aromatics from the hops so it's a safer vessel than your fermenter.
Great video! I've been having generally good success with dry hopping during active fermentation. I do find as the yeast flocs out it strips a lot of the hop aroma with it. The more floculent the yeast, the more hop aroma is stripped as the beer clears. I'm extremely careful about oxygen exposure, and the loss of hopiness is definitely not oxidation.
Aren't you better off dry hopping on brighter beer rather than yeasty beer so the hop oils remain in suspension?
Any opinions on keg hopping? Or is this a bad idea since the beer stays on tbe hops until the keg is kicked?
thanks for the tips! I'm curious about ascorbic acid please, which form, when and how much would you add please? Thank you!
I just brewed my first beer and it was a juicy bits clone .. the recipe called for two weeks from grain to bottling..I kegged it. During carbonation I force carbed it @30psi for close to 30 hrs and tried a sample pour..it looks really cloudy and has alot of yeast floating in it although the color is beautiful and it tastes great! Would this be cause it was not proper temp and or carbed all the way? Or do I need to condition it for a bit? Like I said lots of white proteins floating and slight sediment on the bottom of the glass. Or is all of this normal?
how much ascorbic acid do i use? when do i add it? thx
What can cause a more dry mouthfeel and taste to your NE style beer?
Damn you guys are killing it!! Learning so much from you guys!!
Cheers!
Great video! I recently made a hazy and the beer looked fantastic when going into the bottle (thick, hazy, golden yellow) but after 5 days of conditioning it's already cleared up considerably and I can clearly see through the glass with only minor haze. Could this be a result of my mash ingredients/technique?
Definitly could be either of those. Oat malt is a great way to ensure at least a nice oily look to the beer (especially when doubled with huge hop additions)
I know this seems contradictory to “sound” brewing practices, but don’t use any kettle finings on your hazy ales. Use 30-40% high protein adjuncts in the mash, no kettle finings, and your beer should be cloudy af until the last drop.
What would you guys suggest for dry hopping a Kveik hot? Wait until it’s close to final gravity and chill to 68 then dry hop?
In regards to your hop addition amounts, is this for a 5 gallon batch or larger batch? Also, do you cold crash at all?
Thank you for the great info! Do you guys recommend doing a protein rest to break down some of the medium and long chain proteins before the saccharification (starch conversion) step? I am planning a 20 minute rest at 130 before stepping up to about 148 for 60-90 minutes. I don't want to produce a thin beer or remove any haze, but I was curious your thoughts on adding this in? Thanks!
Great video! I recently completed a NEIPA batch and turned out great. Great juicy flavor I was shooting for, bottle conditioned. Over time though as it matured has become increasingly bitter. Any ideas why or how to avoid this? I will be introducing ascorbic acid in my next batch...
Did they ever reply to your comment? I left one today and I'm wondering if they read them any more.
Excellent video.
Very helpful.
Keep up these helpful tips videos 👍🏼
So I shouldn’t worry about dyacetil when brewing a hazy?
If you Dry Hop at the right time and don't crash your beer too soon after then you should be ok (although that's something we prolly should have talked about in this vid)
Genus Brewing Thanks guys! Hope you can talk a bit more about it soon!
Given that you don't do 60 min additions, how long a boil do you typically use for your hazys? As short as possible? Is there a minimum length?
Kind of depends - we often still boil for 60minutes just to get better efficiency/higher gravity, but there are plenty of them we've done with 15minute boils that have turned out great.
@@GenusBrewing makes sense! Keep smashing out the great beer and videos guys. Found your channel recently and loving your content!
General (old-school) brewing guidelines would dictate that in order to get a higher dextrin content of brew you would mash at the higher range 156-160. But because there is a large percentage of non-fermentable proteins you want to mash in the low 140s, no higher than 148, for at least the first 30-45m, you can then go to 158f, then mash-out. It seems counter-intuitive, but, we're not dealing with a normal beer with the same diastatic ability. Secondly, a beer like this really only needs 30m at most of boiling because of the malt being used your really not going to produce DMS, and what is produced will likely be scrubbed by the yeast.
Thank you for the advice with the whirlpool. However, how do you manage to expose the hops inside the whirlpool for only 20 minutes? Do you pour and filter the wort in the fermenter afterwards and let it chill down in the there before adding the yeast or do you use hop bags which you add in the whirlpool?
They"re using hop bags for sure. Check their other videos out! (also maybe it's been said in this video as well)
Cheers!
Hey! This video was very helpful. First time doing a NEIPA…Do you have a preferred time when to add the ascorbic acid (vit c) and also how much of it? Finally, I have a spike flex fermenter but I dont have how to transfer under pressure. I am transferring to keg via gravity. Any recommendations there to avoid oxygen? Thanks again!!!
I am by no means an expert brewer, but I believe the whole anxiety for getting oxygen in the beer is overrated. If you transfer to keg via gravity, just try to not splash the beer in and it will most likely be fine.
Ofcourse there is oxygen in the keg initially. But oxygen does not dissolve that quickly into your beer without (a lot of) agitation. Besides, CO2 is a heavier gas and so it will sink below the air and drive it out as well.
Source: am biotechnologist, so basically studied oxygen and CO2 transfer to liquids
I use Kveik voss a ton for Hazies, I haven't gone into Dry hopping yet for it as hasn't been needed but want to try.
I usually have full fermentation in 24-36 hours at 39'c. Would dry hopping at 24 hours for 48 be what I'm looking for?
Do you mill your adjuncts (the flaked oats/wheat)?
Nope! Flaked stuff can stick our mill so we keep them out of it.
I’ve also heard that if you’re bottle conditioning that it’s best to only do so until it’s carbed and no longer to maintain freshness. Would you guys agree with this?
Yep - as soon as it's done carbing get it in the fridge to retain freshness.
Can u Hazy without a Dry hop??
I love your guys’ videos. They’ve helped me so much recently in my fermenting/kegging process. But my question is why does my dry hop aroma fade so quickly from fermenter to keg? After closed transfer and double dry hop with 6oz of azacca/citra for 5 days, I have basically no hop aroma coming off the tap. What gives? Ideas?
try your dry hop at lower temp or even better do dry hop in your keg
Better Hazy with or without hop spider?
Without - but you do need to strain out some hops. We usually use a way-too-big hop bag.
Get yourself a sous vide magnet so you can attach the hops to the inside in a hop bag. Then when it's time to dry hop, you remove the outside magnet.
Guys, why should I not use Vienna malt in my hazy ipa? I'm currently having 10% of vienna in my recipe (combined with pils, pale ale and flaked oats) and still get a pretty light yellow colour. My goal was to get a nice sweet taste coming from vienna.
Caramel Sweetness or Maillard Reaction flavours are not a desired flavors in NEIPAs. But if you're not get those flavours in your beer or you're getting them but you actually enjoy your beer in that way you should still add it nonetheless.
If you're trying to get your beer to competitions tough it might get less points if those flavours get trough, it might even be considered off-style.
NEIPA sweetness should come from not fully attenuating your beer and slight estery profile (enfasis on slight) provided by fermentation.
At least that's how I see it.
That Hopbeat shirt is sweet!
Surely these beers should end sweet? Wouldn’t 1.010 be too dry for the style?
1.010 is the bottom end of the style, but you can definitely still have some sweet flavors with that dry of an FG. With 40% of your malt being thiccc adjunct though, even with a low mash temp it will hard to get down that low.
Spent a year brewing hazys because they weren't available in my neck of the woods at that time and took me that long to realize I don't really dig em. Did tons of research and followed all the techniques. Even did some experiments with yeast just to brulosophize the haze factor and they were still ended up with an neipa. I occasionally still try them since they became the thing and the cool thing is I actually nailed it, sadly they just aren't my bag. Actually I'm just tired of them. West coast is where its at. Cheers!
Just use 6 row for the high adjunct brew
Really want to see that ascorbic acid vs no ascorbic acid side by side video;)
We'll make it hapn!
@@GenusBrewing Triangle test would definitely close the door on all the questions:)
@@travismorita2236 Check out Brulosophy, they've done just that.
@@daver4481 I don't believe Brulosophy have looked at ascorbic acid yet... SMB definitely, along with various approaches to purging etc. I am waiting for them to run it as I am skeptical on its usefulness.
Awesome video guys, cheers.
Thank you! Cheers!
Never used rice hulls and never had a stuck mash in my brewzilla, maybe been lucky and need to add to next
you guys dropping bombs here💣
can’t wait to empty my unitanks to brew my next neipa for the Arizonian summer!
i just brewed a beer with a pilsner grain bill, a neipa whirlpool cryohops addition, threw 001 to it, let it naturally carbonate it and it tastes like a sesh neipa!
It’s cold crashing now, so it will lose its hazy color, but the aroma is just intense as a neipa!
what do you guys think about Modern Times hazy ipas btw?
Nice! I love session beer with big flavor. I'm a fan of Modern Times (they make great beer), but I don't fanboy over them like a lot of people do. I've had plenty of better beers from lesser known breweries - granted I haven't been to the brewery itself so I'll have to give them a fresh take when I can make it in there to try their best/freshest stuff.
Genus Brewing interesting, very interesting actually
MT are very solid in California, especially in San Diego
Definitely gotta try more of the northwestern breweries out there then, cheers guys🍻
Great vid guys!
If you're supposed to limit oxygen exposure, how do you oxygenate the wort for "happy" yeast?
It's crucial to oxygenate the wrot when you're pitching your yeast, but ONLY that time.
Needs a huge protein rest too
What step in the process are you adding ascorbic acid? I added SMB to a NEIPA recently and it turned into a sulfur bomb. I think would have been just fine without it, but wanted to try.
I've never used it, but logically it would come after fermentation since the yeast will be using the oxygen available in the wort. I would guess you can add it during transfer to your brite tank or keg, which would require a method for oxygen free injection. You should also be able add it during bottling or canning.
I think what I would do is boil some water to deaerate it, dissolve the proper amount of ascorbic acid into that solution, then add it to a small purged and pressurized container. Hook that container up to my carbonating vessel and inject the solution before filling the vessel with my beer. Should end up mixing well while filling said vessel without introducing any oxygen.
You could also just pour it into whatever your filling before hand and try to purge with CO2 only, but that will require more CO2 for a complete purge. I typically fill my kegs with sanitizer and push all that out with CO2 which requires much less CO2 to purge the keg and is more effective.
Awesome advice guys.👌🏼
Thanks a lot, I'll try some of your tips!
Great tips!!!
Thanks!
A bit weird thing to say that yeast doesn't have a big impact for this style? I would say NEIPA's are very yeast driven style. And you actually made a side by side video with Imperial Yeast strains (Citrus and Julius), and said it to have clearly different flavor and overall differences. It was a Milkshake IPA in that video, but still the point is valid.
Good tips, but in my opinion very careless and a stretch to say that the yeast is least impactful part of the style.
Best advice for those who bottle condition is to avoid a bottling bucket. Add your sugar, conditioning yeast (if applicable), and your finished beer directly to bottles.
A fermenter with a spigot doesn't hurt either.
For sure - people bottling just have to be ok with a little extra sediment in their bottles unless they have a conical or something similar (or at least the spigot so they can rack under pressure.)
Or carb tablets directly into each bottle would work too, right?
Great video guys, can’t wait to make less mistakes on my brew day coming up haha
One question, some recipes have two dry hop additions, one at two days another at 7... any advantage to this or do you recommend just the one at high krausen? Cheers!
They are for two different things. At high krausen you are trying to get biotransformation. For a NEIPA, I would think the first dry hop at high krausen is more important. I have a citra hopped session mead that just finished where I did both. It's WORTH doing both, for the flavor depth, but not 100% necessary. Just don't leave the beer on the hops too long, as mentioned at the end of the video.
Hey Jabrones, lol, how much Idleberg, sorry for the spelling, do you add for a 5 gallon batch? You guys are awesome. Long time viewer out here in Cali.
*Heidelberg - and it's 6-7# or about 60% of our malt bill. Cheers! :)
PSA: don’t purge your keg with any sanitizer that foams. That foam contains oxygen.
False
Oh, classic Peter! Asscorbs
Exacerbating can be less exhausting than exasperating
For totes
Cheers 🍺
Cheers!
didn't know #joshallen brewed beer!
This seems way too complicated for me 🥴
Great Info! - Only Thing I'll Personally Disagree with is Bitterness in Hazies because that Actually Loving Hazies with Bite! Monkish being the first that comes to mind! Not Sure How Or When they're Hop Additions go in but 99% of they're Beers aren't Juice Bombs, they have this Distinct Monkish Bite! Love It! 🤙🍻
Oxygen ezasperates the problem
Sulfite