I keep a hazy on tap consistently. I dialed in the recipe I love and have just been changing the yeast every iteration and make note of the characteristics. So far my favorite oddly enough has been Safale K-97. Super impressed with that yeast for a hazy.
In a similar vein I threw nottingham and some left over coopers can yeast into a neipa fwk I'd made a few times...those yeasts made the best example yet, nudging out verdant and new england.
Nice pool! I think its a very personalized style that everyone really has a different opinion on about what tastes the best. I've found that I prefer NEIPAs that don't have any hops added during the boil since the whirlpool will still impart some perceived bitterness. Great overview of everything!
Thanks much. Your opening description is so on point. I mostly like and brew lagers like Viennas and Pils. But the's the odd NEIPA that i find delicious. The hard part is finding a good place to start recipe wise. As for dry hopping I'll use the sous vide magnets to drop hops in a bag 1 by 1. Great video.
S-33 is a great dry yeast option for NEIPAs. It’s a ferry fruity compliment to citrus forward hops. I usually do El Dorado/Rakau/Motueka and I recently kegged a Mistral/Rakau/ Topaz NEIPA
Spot on vid. I personally still dry hop, purging headspace with co2 and works well. At first I made mistakes transferring to a keg where I only purged gas a couple times by blowing off co2. I’ve found the filling with sani and displacing with co2 trick works well. So sad to lose a great beer to oxidation lol. Cheers! Great content.
A couple things: -Campden can add a sulfur flavor and aroma when added during kegging/bottling. I've had to dump a couple batches because of this. -Flip top bottles are worse than crown cap bottles when bottling a NEIPA. I did an experiment where the same batch was bottled both ways and the crown cap bottles lasted much longer than the flip tops.
Try changing the gasket or washer regularly on the swing cap. I have some 18 month old Strong Ales in these type of bottles that pour with a firm micro bubble head.
@@chopperaxon6171 It was brand new gaskets. The NEIPAs in flip top bottles were clearly more oxidized after four weeks when compared to the crown caps. Not much difference after two weeks though. I think even if the bottle holds CO2 pressure, the partial pressure of oxygen in the bottle is pretty much zero, and oxygen can diffuse in. Crown caps have a special material that helps minimize this diffusion I guess 🤷♂️
Thanks for the Video. What I do is to Ferment under pressure with kveik . 7-8 PSI. Then do the transport to the keg with co2 where I also do the dry hop with a hop sock. Every day once for 4 days I roll the keg for 2 minuttes. After the 4 days the beer get transportet to a clean co2 filled keg with co2 pressure. Never get in touch with O2. I will try a batch with wirlpool addition instead of dryhop. Thanks again.
Thanks for The tips about oxidation, Maybe The best video. I have a question, i understand about The cold crash, how you cool down Your beer , like.6 degrees per Day? And whats your opinion about The aeration during The mash, for me have no sense because after we have The primary fermentation absorving The oxigen…. But i see a lot of peoples Talking about That. And about the Flaked oats, some brewers says tha Contain mg And use malted oats.
I tried a super hop heavy recipe, with whirlpool and 8oz of dry hopping. The hop burn was real, but I decided to leave the beer alone for another week or two in the pressurized keg, and sure enough it mellowed out to a super aromatic, flavorful beer!
I use all my hops in the whirlpool. I love using Voss Kveik for an added orange citrus note too. I dry hopped once but I didn't like the flavor it added. Sticking to just whirlpool from now on.
I find to make a good beer regardless of style, you should do a cold crash. If you aren’t getting stable haze with a cold crash, you aren’t doing it right. I’ve done this in the pro world and it still works. There is a debate of whether you want some yeast in suspension that will have a lot of hop flavor and some of the best NEIPAs I’ve had will have a good amount of settling in the can, so I’ve adopted a more mild cold conditioning for this style which is only 36°F rather than as cold to freezing as you can get (usually 32-30°, but that’s with glycol jackets w/ ~28° coming out of the chiller in very insulated piping).
@@DeejZorb hallow m8. hope all good for you. haven’t manage to brew yet but thinking on a hoppy dark ale..not sure! crazy one is going to be ginger ale! my dad years ago made it! but never tried after 40 years home brewing 🫡Bri
I love your version of this NEIPA. I have taken a little from your recipe and adapted it to my own. I make one that is a sweeter style with a lot of stone and citrus fruit hops. Very juicy!
Trent, as usual, your videos are amazing and help out brewers such as myself. I actually have a NEIPA planned for my next batch, and this video has great advice. I didn’t think to do a closed transfer. I am also not clear about dry hopping. Most recipes online seem to be doing a lot of dry hopping. Do you just recommend doing just a hopstand? I have a recipe I’ve crafted that calls for 4 days and 10 days of dry hopping. This being my first NEIPA, I don’t want to accidentally create hop burn. Please help and cheers!
Dry hopping is fine, it just needs to be done in a way that doesn't allow oxygen into the fermenter. Some people have used hop bags with magnets so they can release them from the outside, that seems like a good idea. I wouldn't try a NEIPA unless you can avoid all cold side oxidation, or I guess I should say I wouldn't try it again.
I'm using food grade magnets to put 6oz hops in a mesh bag, then add it to the wall of the fermenter during the fermentation rack. Then I don't need to open the fermenter lid to dry hop, I can just release the magnet on the outside.
Looks great! I'm gonna try this recipe out for my next batch. Love your videos, I always learn something new, be it new (to me) equipment or recipes. Thanks for sharing!
Would it be worth filling the bottling wand with water first before bottling and emptying it once attached to the spigot to prevent air bubbles rippling up through the beer just before bottling?
Great tips! All those poolside shots have me looking forward to summer. My plan for this year is to do a series of NEIPAs to iterate on a recipe I brewed last year. There are so many thoughts on everything related to NEIPAs I wanted to try em out for myself.
Have you heard of or tried Phantasm Powder? Also for this style I think fermenting in a keg works great and if you want to dry hop place it place the hops in a bag with a food grade magnet and drop it in when you are ready to dry hop. Also for easy of transferring to a second keg for serving a float tip would help.
@@TheBruSho I had it in a NEIPA style beer this past weekend. Apparently it is a grape skin extract that adds thiol precursor which enhance tropical fruit aromas. Havent seen it commercially available for homebrewers but looks pretty cool.
@@EricJD1966 I didn't follow the same recipe, and I was doing a 6.25 gallon batch size, but I did borrow the water profile, and it's both hazy, and a juice bomb.
I also use a gas- in post attached to a stopper to do pressure transfers. I've learn to hold on to it and keep an eye on the regulator. One time the pressure went over 5 psi and the stopper blew off like a champagne cork. It scared the hell out of me but I've got it down pat now. Nice vid! Thanks!
Thanks man! Every single dry hopped beer I've made has been spoiled by diacetyl or some other defect, so from now on I'm just going to go big on the whirlpool. Cheers!
Awesome video! I always just whirlpool my hops for NEIPA's also I do dry hop but only on high krausen. Also I have heard the Potassium Metabisulfite is the GOAT with NEIPA's never tried it personally but I may do that on the next one. Last note, closed transfers are the bomb but only if you purge the keg correctly. Alot of guys just plug in some Co2 and burp the keg for a minute or two and I have always felt weary of that since you are just increasing the mix of co2 and o2 but never completely removing the o2. Pushing starsan out is the only way you can guarantee you are filling the keg with co2. Cheers!
Thanks for the tips Matt! I completely agree about pushing the starsan out. But admittedly I can be lazy sometimes. I should definitely be doing that more on this style haha
I generally dump most of it, leaving only the gnarliest stuff behind. But that’s just me, I’ve read it help kick start fermentation when there’s a bit of trub in your fermenter.
I made a session oat cream IPA last year, can't remember what I used in it but turned out great, I bottle all my brews and it was fine, tasted creamy with tropical fruits, resinous etc. was 4.5% and 13 IBUs haven't made a hazy since but I think I will soon.
@@TheBruSho deffinatley yes, blood orange was one I picked out. Also had help finishing the batch within 6 weeks 🤣 my mum liked it too. I think she must have drank a 6 pack out of it and she hardly drinks. Lol. May have to see if I can find the recipe, if you want it I can give it to ya. And I might brew it again in a bigger batch, made 19 litres last time but I think I'd need to do a 25lt batch next time aha.
Depends on the fermentation health. Usually 1 week is plenty of time but if you can take a sample you can get a better idea if any off flavors need more time to fix themselves
how would you add the ascorbic acid to the fermenter without introducing oxygen? could I dump it into the fermenter before I add the CO2 to the top of the fermenter when doing a closed transfer?
Hey TheBrewShow. Very inspiring video, will try to brew it in a week. What's the total weight of the grain's that you use? I also want to try this and go for 20L, so I would go for around 13lbs. Do I get it right that I should add the Warrior when the liquid boils and keep it boiling for 30 minutes? Afterwards cooling down to 175ºF and add the other hops for 15 minutes during whirlpool before cooling it down?
Sweet video my dude! I just brewed a tropical hazie IPA with El Dorado, Vic Secret, Galaxy and Magnum and damn it came our tasty. Couple of minor tweaks and this beer will be ready for prime time. Thanks for knowledge drop man, your content is always appreciated. Cheers!
Really good video. Well explained. I'm like Pavlov's dog watching it. What is the total weight of the grain bill? Would love try this. Thanks and keep up the great work.
@@jesseo1562 I guess if you want to be extra sure you could use a spunding valve so co2 exiting the keg is only going one way but I personally think it’s ok to just use PRV
Citra, mosaic, and Amarillo. Citra boil and dry hop(after high krausen), mosaic boil and dry hop(during high krausen), and Amarillo boil. End with about 45 IBUs on the hazy.
Well, good job done ! I brew NEIPA as the main beer style and wonder about two aspects you mentioned - no Cold Crash, does it really destroy the beer ? - sugar/glucose directly to the bottle, does it really matter if you blow your fermenter with Co2 before bottling ? Thank you :)
Thanks! Cold crashing, no it doesn't necessarily destroy it but if you dont have good cold crashing technique then you will get an oxidized beer likely. And as far as co2 in bottle, i've heard it helps but I havent experimented with this myself
@@TheBruSho I cold crash with the same anvil but I quickly take out the airlock and plug the hole with a plug and it works fine. I also use ascorbic acid in the keg and I noticed a difference
I cold crashed my last NEIPA, but using a fermzilla and a slight pressure in the fermenter (around 5PSI), there is zero risk of oxygen being drawn back in during the cold crash because it remains under pressure!
I have brewed a neipa twice now, my first oxidized badly, my second one I used 3g of ascorbic in the mash, the one time for dry hop, and some more for bottling, no oxidation. Hop burn is an issue, it seems to take about 20 days in the bottle to go away. Amarillo and Cashmere hops were used in both batches.
Love to hear about your experience with ascorbic, I have that little baggy but haven’t used it yet. Mainly use sulfites but now I’ll have to give it a go!
Thanks for the advise and recipe. I ahve had a few failures due to 02. Next will will be this version. You measurements say 5.5gallons (20.8L) A bit confused by this. 5.5g is 25 L. Or am I missing something?
I probably did some bad math/conversion. So I’m the US and everything I based off imperial, then I convert to help metric folks. But thanks for the catch!
I just had a raw ale get oxidized in some of my swingtop bottles because secondary didn't pick up quick enough. I'll probably get a pack of bottling yeast the next time I try it and see if that helps.
@@stevenstone307 Sorry I meant in grams/measurement. The Ratio or parts per million (ppm) do not change. you just scale the total amount to fit those ratios or ppm
I just brewed my first NEIPA on my clawhammer, so far the color looks nice in the fermenter but I am quite afraid of oxidization when bottling/kegging after watching this video. I will have to try your recipe once I get my kegging system setup. I am buying an entire setup and extra brewing supplies this evening but it will be a few weeks as I will need to buy a regulator or two and some other supplies to get it up and running fully.
For people that dont have the capability to close transfer, I've had good success using my co2 tank to put a blanket of co2 on top of the beer and have had no issues with oxidation. Same when transferring to the keg. Just tested out transferring from fermenter to sanke and no problem as well.
Excellent video but I am in the remedial water chemistry class. You said add: CA 136, MG 12, Na 40, CL 202,SO4 101, HCo3.Do you means grams? ie, 136 grams of CA?
Thanks. BTW, I have watched a million videos on beer making and your channel is one of the top two in my opinion. Im sure you would like to know the other one: David Heath-Homebrew. You are in good company.
Love the taste of many of these NE IPAs and I love the ABV. I do however get the worst friggin headaches from these things. If I spend a night drinking them. I can be sure I'll be rocking a migraine all next day.
Awesome video! Such a delicate style. But I've really enjoyed trying to get it right, and tips like these are super helpful. Also, if you want to avoid oxidation during cold crash, a super easy/cheap solution is to check out the Cold Crash Guardian from Brew Hardware. Basically an easier version of the balloon hack. Cheers!
As a Brit I love hoppy beers and DIPA, but when I got tasting the IPA's from the USA I was smitten. So tasty and more-ish. But why drink it out of a jamjar? Did you run out of proper glasses?
How well a yeast flocs doesn't really correlate to a stable haze. Omega Yeast and others just recently spoke on this. Strain does matter, but more important is dry hop timing.
@@TheBruSho brilliant. Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to trying this beer out. It looks like sunshine in a glass. Absolutely amazing. Thanks again. Pröst
No need dor threadtape. Just use the silicone gaskets. Also, grab some o clamps for the condenser.. they are leaky boys. Last thing, the instructions suck. If you use the thumper, make sure you attach the small copper pipe on the intake. The pictures look like they attach it to the condenser. Boiler isnt great on electric cook tops as it is bowed out. It is a juggle balancing the water intake and outake from the condensor... after all that, I am pulling nice 83% abv for my sanitiser 😊
So I used the recipe you provided, then I entered everything in BeerSmith 3. The end result looked NOTHING like your finished product. Inputting your OG, FG, Color, & IBUs changed the volume of grains & hops needed. Oh no! What to do? Shall I stick with BeerSmith since it adjusts for equipment & water? I hate to change anything before I brew a recipe. Your brew looks awfully sweet as is.
I would aim for the OG, FG, IBUs I gave and it’s ok if the amounts of grains and hops are different. As long as the end result is similar. That’s why I normally don’t like giving amounts of grains and stuff since everyone’s system is a little different
@@TheBruSho yeah not saying it doesn’t work, just pointing out the hop character you get on the end will be different. Probably not as bright as it could be. It would be interesting to compare a beer made this way aside a beer with a dry hop added. As an aside, are you aware of any of the breweries making the best hazies are doing so without a dry hop? Talking Hill Farmstead, Treehouse, Alchemist, etc. I’d be very interested to find out.
I agree, I made a post calling this a poverty neipa. Perhaps this was a bit too harsh, since he obviously brewed a beer he liked and was content with - which is the most important. BUT if we want to brew the BEST neipa homebrew, I think most would agree that a dry hop is absolutely necessary. This beer recipe uses less hops than what is used in the official Sierra Nevada Pale Ale recipe!
@@TheBruSho I love it aggressively hoppy! Usually do 6-8 whirlpool and hotside total, then the remainder in two dry hops, one 2-3 days before packaging and one in the keg before closed transfer
Honestly: Fermeting in a Keg takes care of most of the issues with oxygen, getting air sucked in while cold crashing etc... I'd just recommend people do that. Perfect setup, imho: Get 2 Kegs, in one swap the dip tube for a floating dip tube, or cut/bend the dip tube, so it doesn't reach all the way to the bottom. That's the keg you'll ferment in. Put the wort in the keg, put 10 psi of pressure on it, put on a spunding valve and release pressure to 4 psi. Fill the other keg with star san, hook the output of the spunding value on the fermentation keg up to the gas end of the star san keg and let the CO2 push out the star san into a bucket or your cleaning keg. Wait until the wildest part of the fermentation is over, tighten the spunding value to around 25psi and let it ride out. To dry hop, release the pressure on the keg and put the hops in. The CO2 coming out of solution because of the pressure drop will help keep oxygen out. Flush headspace with CO2, let it stand for 2 days - I feel like more contact time will not get more good stuff out of the hops. Put the keg in the fridge and cold crash for 2 days. Now you can transfer to the already pured and CO2 filled keg, leaving behind all the hops, yeast and trub in the other keg. Only downside is that you'll not get a full keg of NEIPA out of this - unless you have one of these bigger kegs to ferment in or transfer into a smaller one :D.
You are very right about fermenting in the keg. I own a 7.5 gallons kegmenter and it has been a life saver for me when it comes to cold crushing and closed transfers. And the best part is I get full keg of beer ALL the time 😁😁😁
The real key is not to put your hops in a hop basket while whirlpooling and do not put your hops into some sack when dry hopping. You want full contact with every pellet to get the maximum from your hops. For Yeast, Verdant IPA is my go too. It adds a lot of hazy and the perfect NEIPA flavour.
![Home Brewing Water Chemistry for Beginners [WATER SIMPLIFIED]🚰](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xVIAC1CqeVc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Home Brewing Water Chemistry for Beginners [WATER SIMPLIFIED]🚰](/img/tr.png)
I keep a hazy on tap consistently. I dialed in the recipe I love and have just been changing the yeast every iteration and make note of the characteristics. So far my favorite oddly enough has been Safale K-97. Super impressed with that yeast for a hazy.
Wow I wouldn’t expect that! I’m gonna have to try that one out thanks!
I haven't tried a bunch of different yeasts but so far my favorite is the ol tried and true Wyeast III London Ale 1318
same ive been impressed by K-97 ! rly good result on a full hazy pale ale with only sabro !
@@brasserienuka8171 what was your grain bill with the sabro
In a similar vein I threw nottingham and some left over coopers can yeast into a neipa fwk I'd made a few times...those yeasts made the best example yet, nudging out verdant and new england.
Nice pool! I think its a very personalized style that everyone really has a different opinion on about what tastes the best. I've found that I prefer NEIPAs that don't have any hops added during the boil since the whirlpool will still impart some perceived bitterness. Great overview of everything!
For sure! It’s on of those weird styles that has some particulars but a lot of room to experiment and try different things. Pretty fun stuff
Just got back from a trip and had some amazing neipas. Watching vids to psych me up to make a neipa this weekend. BruSho is my first stop!
Thanks much. Your opening description is so on point. I mostly like and brew lagers like Viennas and Pils. But the's the odd NEIPA that i find delicious. The hard part is finding a good place to start recipe wise. As for dry hopping I'll use the sous vide magnets to drop hops in a bag 1 by 1. Great video.
Love that ball glass. Recipe looks delicious , I will have to give this one a try.
I did some experiments over the winter with NEIPAs and concerning yeast- Coastal Haze was my #2 choice. Cosmic Punch by Omega was my favorite.
I really liked coastal haze, first time using it for this video but usually one of the many omega strains is my go to for hazy, cheers
S-33 is a great dry yeast option for NEIPAs. It’s a ferry fruity compliment to citrus forward hops. I usually do El Dorado/Rakau/Motueka and I recently kegged a Mistral/Rakau/ Topaz NEIPA
I’ll have to try s33 out, your not the first person to say that and now I’m curious
Spot on vid. I personally still dry hop, purging headspace with co2 and works well. At first I made mistakes transferring to a keg where I only purged gas a couple times by blowing off co2. I’ve found the filling with sani and displacing with co2 trick works well. So sad to lose a great beer to oxidation lol. Cheers! Great content.
A couple things:
-Campden can add a sulfur flavor and aroma when added during kegging/bottling. I've had to dump a couple batches because of this.
-Flip top bottles are worse than crown cap bottles when bottling a NEIPA. I did an experiment where the same batch was bottled both ways and the crown cap bottles lasted much longer than the flip tops.
Great call outs! I didn’t even think about the flip tops being as issue (was b-roll from another video). Thanks for that!
Try changing the gasket or washer regularly on the swing cap. I have some 18 month old Strong Ales in these type of bottles that pour with a firm micro bubble head.
@@chopperaxon6171 It was brand new gaskets. The NEIPAs in flip top bottles were clearly more oxidized after four weeks when compared to the crown caps. Not much difference after two weeks though. I think even if the bottle holds CO2 pressure, the partial pressure of oxygen in the bottle is pretty much zero, and oxygen can diffuse in. Crown caps have a special material that helps minimize this diffusion I guess 🤷♂️
Thanks for the Video. What I do is to Ferment under pressure with kveik . 7-8 PSI. Then do the transport to the keg with co2 where I also do the dry hop with a hop sock. Every day once for 4 days I roll the keg for 2 minuttes. After the 4 days the beer get transportet to a clean co2 filled keg with co2 pressure. Never get in touch with O2. I will try a batch with wirlpool addition instead of dryhop. Thanks again.
Great video dude. High quality content and camera work. I can tell you love this stuff.
great stuff. took me years to get to the same point, wish I had seen this video back then.
you always give the best info..in the most understandable way.....🤘thank you
Thank you Theron! Cheers man!
Thanks for The tips about oxidation, Maybe The best video. I have a question, i understand about The cold crash, how you cool down Your beer , like.6 degrees per Day?
And whats your opinion about The aeration during The mash, for me have no sense because after we have The primary fermentation absorving The oxigen…. But i see a lot of peoples Talking about That.
And about the Flaked oats, some brewers says tha Contain mg And use malted oats.
I tried a super hop heavy recipe, with whirlpool and 8oz of dry hopping. The hop burn was real, but I decided to leave the beer alone for another week or two in the pressurized keg, and sure enough it mellowed out to a super aromatic, flavorful beer!
Thanks bruh. I always love your videos. I made a NEIPA that was really good and was eventually brewed commercially as part of the competition I won.
That’s awesome!! Must have been a damn fine hazy
I use all my hops in the whirlpool. I love using Voss Kveik for an added orange citrus note too. I dry hopped once but I didn't like the flavor it added. Sticking to just whirlpool from now on.
Voss is a perfect strain for hazys. Love that citrus kick at warm temps!
No dry hops?
I find to make a good beer regardless of style, you should do a cold crash. If you aren’t getting stable haze with a cold crash, you aren’t doing it right. I’ve done this in the pro world and it still works. There is a debate of whether you want some yeast in suspension that will have a lot of hop flavor and some of the best NEIPAs I’ve had will have a good amount of settling in the can, so I’ve adopted a more mild cold conditioning for this style which is only 36°F rather than as cold to freezing as you can get (usually 32-30°, but that’s with glycol jackets w/ ~28° coming out of the chiller in very insulated piping).
Loved this one!
Thanks braj!
Love it m8👍Really brilliant explaining and a great video. Just waiting for my delivery of grains. Happy Homebrewing from Newcastle UK. Bri 🍺👍
Hello from another Newcastle home brewer!
@@DeejZorb hallow m8. hope all good for you. haven’t manage to brew yet but thinking on a hoppy dark ale..not sure! crazy one is going to be ginger ale! my dad years ago made it! but never tried after 40 years home brewing 🫡Bri
I love your version of this NEIPA. I have taken a little from your recipe and adapted it to my own. I make one that is a sweeter style with a lot of stone and citrus fruit hops. Very juicy!
Trent, as usual, your videos are amazing and help out brewers such as myself. I actually have a NEIPA planned for my next batch, and this video has great advice. I didn’t think to do a closed transfer. I am also not clear about dry hopping. Most recipes online seem to be doing a lot of dry hopping. Do you just recommend doing just a hopstand? I have a recipe I’ve crafted that calls for 4 days and 10 days of dry hopping. This being my first NEIPA, I don’t want to accidentally create hop burn. Please help and cheers!
Dry hopping is fine, it just needs to be done in a way that doesn't allow oxygen into the fermenter. Some people have used hop bags with magnets so they can release them from the outside, that seems like a good idea. I wouldn't try a NEIPA unless you can avoid all cold side oxidation, or I guess I should say I wouldn't try it again.
Agree with petmensan. But do whatever works for you. I find that a whirlpool addition is just easier for me.
Looks wonderful Trent!
Ferment and serve in the keg with spunding valve and floating dip tube is the hot ticket for hazys and a lot less work.
I'm using food grade magnets to put 6oz hops in a mesh bag, then add it to the wall of the fermenter during the fermentation rack. Then I don't need to open the fermenter lid to dry hop, I can just release the magnet on the outside.
My next brew will be a NEIPA that I'll be doing some tests on, thanks for the help!
Excited to see your take on one, or many!
Looks great! I'm gonna try this recipe out for my next batch. Love your videos, I always learn something new, be it new (to me) equipment or recipes. Thanks for sharing!
Hey thanks for that! Appreciate your support 🍻
Fantastic job and possibly awesome beer! :)
Would it be worth filling the bottling wand with water first before bottling and emptying it once attached to the spigot to prevent air bubbles rippling up through the beer just before bottling?
Could you put a cartouche on top of the beer in the fermenter to prevent oxidisation when bottling?
Love the way you explain everything! 🍺
Great tips! All those poolside shots have me looking forward to summer. My plan for this year is to do a series of NEIPAs to iterate on a recipe I brewed last year. There are so many thoughts on everything related to NEIPAs I wanted to try em out for myself.
That sounds like an awesome idea! You'll have to post about your findings
Have you heard of or tried Phantasm Powder? Also for this style I think fermenting in a keg works great and if you want to dry hop place it place the hops in a bag with a food grade magnet and drop it in when you are ready to dry hop. Also for easy of transferring to a second keg for serving a float tip would help.
I haven’t I’ll look into that. And totally agree about fermenting in kegs/pressure fermenting. Great point!
@@TheBruSho I had it in a NEIPA style beer this past weekend. Apparently it is a grape skin extract that adds thiol precursor which enhance tropical fruit aromas. Havent seen it commercially available for homebrewers but looks pretty cool.
I kegged this recipe today. Trying to force carb so it’s ready for the NC State game tonight! Thanks for the video!🍺🍺
Ran across this as looking for NEIPA recipe. What did you think of your beer? Would you recommend the recipe?
@@EricJD1966 I didn't follow the same recipe, and I was doing a 6.25 gallon batch size, but I did borrow the water profile, and it's both hazy, and a juice bomb.
I also use a gas- in post attached to a stopper to do pressure transfers. I've learn to hold on to it and keep an eye on the regulator. One time the pressure went over 5 psi and the stopper blew off like a champagne cork. It scared the hell out of me but I've got it down pat now. Nice vid! Thanks!
Haha I bet that would scare ya. Thanks for the tip and heads up!
On the keg is the gas line side just attached to a hose to let the co2 pressure escape?
Thanks man! Every single dry hopped beer I've made has been spoiled by diacetyl or some other defect, so from now on I'm just going to go big on the whirlpool. Cheers!
Hopefully that helps! Best of luck
Awesome video! I always just whirlpool my hops for NEIPA's also I do dry hop but only on high krausen. Also I have heard the Potassium Metabisulfite is the GOAT with NEIPA's never tried it personally but I may do that on the next one. Last note, closed transfers are the bomb but only if you purge the keg correctly. Alot of guys just plug in some Co2 and burp the keg for a minute or two and I have always felt weary of that since you are just increasing the mix of co2 and o2 but never completely removing the o2. Pushing starsan out is the only way you can guarantee you are filling the keg with co2. Cheers!
Thanks for the tips Matt! I completely agree about pushing the starsan out. But admittedly I can be lazy sometimes. I should definitely be doing that more on this style haha
Agree on pushing the starsan out. The next level pro move is to plan way ahead and push this starsan out with the fermenting beer.
Picked up two pounds of galaxy when it went on sale. Can’t wait to try it.
Yumm love me some galaxy! Have fun
Thanks so much for the video, really enjoyed it mate
Thanks for watching, glad you liked it!
I have a question regarding transfer from kettle to fermenter. Dump it all in or syphon wort leaving hops/trub behind? thank you
I generally dump most of it, leaving only the gnarliest stuff behind. But that’s just me, I’ve read it help kick start fermentation when there’s a bit of trub in your fermenter.
I dump it all....most the trub will sink to the bottom of the fermentor anyways
I made a session oat cream IPA last year, can't remember what I used in it but turned out great, I bottle all my brews and it was fine, tasted creamy with tropical fruits, resinous etc. was 4.5% and 13 IBUs haven't made a hazy since but I think I will soon.
That sounds really interesting! A little orange/citrus flavor from hops would be fantastic
@@TheBruSho deffinatley yes, blood orange was one I picked out. Also had help finishing the batch within 6 weeks 🤣
my mum liked it too. I think she must have drank a 6 pack out of it and she hardly drinks. Lol. May have to see if I can find the recipe, if you want it I can give it to ya. And I might brew it again in a bigger batch, made 19 litres last time but I think I'd need to do a 25lt batch next time aha.
What about the clean up time for yeast? After 1 week fermentation do I need to leave it sit for a while?
Depends on the fermentation health. Usually 1 week is plenty of time but if you can take a sample you can get a better idea if any off flavors need more time to fix themselves
@@TheBruSho okay thanks I’ll try it out I’m new to this hobby
@@MATTW3R welcome to the hobby. Just have fun and keep learning!
how would you add the ascorbic acid to the fermenter without introducing oxygen? could I dump it into the fermenter before I add the CO2 to the top of the fermenter when doing a closed transfer?
Yeah exactly, I think that would be the best way.
Hey TheBrewShow. Very inspiring video, will try to brew it in a week.
What's the total weight of the grain's that you use? I also want to try this and go for 20L, so I would go for around 13lbs.
Do I get it right that I should add the Warrior when the liquid boils and keep it boiling for 30 minutes? Afterwards cooling down to 175ºF and add the other hops for 15 minutes during whirlpool before cooling it down?
Sweet video my dude! I just brewed a tropical hazie IPA with El Dorado, Vic Secret, Galaxy and Magnum and damn it came our tasty. Couple of minor tweaks and this beer will be ready for prime time. Thanks for knowledge drop man, your content is always appreciated. Cheers!
Sounds like a winning combo! Pumped you found a recipe that works for you!
Really good video. Well explained. I'm like Pavlov's dog watching it.
What is the total weight of the grain bill? Would love try this.
Thanks and keep up the great work.
do you have the recipe from the one you brewed in the main picture. that looks amazing!!!
Recipe is in the description!
Saludos desde Argentina éxitos 🎉
Amazing video! Can you share information for where to get the cap you are using for the closed transfer?
Check out my Home Brew Tools video. Linked in the cards to this video!
@@TheBruSho Thanks for this! Also, with the closed transfer, you don't need a Spunding Valve? You just release pressure and that is good to go?
@@jesseo1562 I guess if you want to be extra sure you could use a spunding valve so co2 exiting the keg is only going one way but I personally think it’s ok to just use PRV
can you fill us in on the exact amounts of the salts to add to 7 gals of distilled water?
What are the measurements for each of the water additives in grams?
If you’re about to brew a hazy let me know what hops you’ll be using! 🍻
Went in with 430g in total
Mosaic
Callista
Galaxy
Citra, mosaic, and Amarillo. Citra boil and dry hop(after high krausen), mosaic boil and dry hop(during high krausen), and Amarillo boil. End with about 45 IBUs on the hazy.
Good suggestion using a carbonation cap on a bung, I will try that one.
Thanks, love finding new ways to use an old tool
Great advise ! Cheers amigo ! 🍻🍻
Thanks man!
Hey is that your new pad? Looks rad! And that beer looks soooo good!!!! I do enjoy a good NEIPA!!!
Hey! Yup new spot. Still trying to figure the best setup for brew days but just gotta make do with what I got for now. Cheers man!
Well, good job done !
I brew NEIPA as the main beer style and wonder about two aspects you mentioned
- no Cold Crash, does it really destroy the beer ?
- sugar/glucose directly to the bottle, does it really matter if you blow your fermenter with Co2 before bottling ?
Thank you :)
Thanks! Cold crashing, no it doesn't necessarily destroy it but if you dont have good cold crashing technique then you will get an oxidized beer likely. And as far as co2 in bottle, i've heard it helps but I havent experimented with this myself
@@TheBruSho I cold crash with the same anvil but I quickly take out the airlock and plug the hole with a plug and it works fine. I also use ascorbic acid in the keg and I noticed a difference
excellent video dude!!!!!
Thank you!! 🍻
I cold crashed my last NEIPA, but using a fermzilla and a slight pressure in the fermenter (around 5PSI), there is zero risk of oxygen being drawn back in during the cold crash because it remains under pressure!
Smart trick!
I have brewed a neipa twice now, my first oxidized badly, my second one I used 3g of ascorbic in the mash, the one time for dry hop, and some more for bottling, no oxidation. Hop burn is an issue, it seems to take about 20 days in the bottle to go away. Amarillo and Cashmere hops were used in both batches.
Love to hear about your experience with ascorbic, I have that little baggy but haven’t used it yet. Mainly use sulfites but now I’ll have to give it a go!
Looking like a great idea to get on the go for summer. I need to up my no oxygen transfer game! Also, what is a butt-load of hops in metric? Cheers!
Soggy-bottoms load?
@@TheBruSho Makes sense!
I have started making my hazy's with no boil.
Hi. What Micron on your spider ? Thanks
Not sure exactly, 300 likely
Thanks for the advise and recipe. I ahve had a few failures due to 02. Next will will be this version. You measurements say 5.5gallons (20.8L) A bit confused by this. 5.5g is 25 L. Or am I missing something?
I probably did some bad math/conversion. So I’m the US and everything I based off imperial, then I convert to help metric folks. But thanks for the catch!
I just had a raw ale get oxidized in some of my swingtop bottles because secondary didn't pick up quick enough. I'll probably get a pack of bottling yeast the next time I try it and see if that helps.
Bummer! Let me know if that ends up working better for you
Your water salts, does the target change for the amount of water you're using? Are yours suitable for 5 gallon batches only?
Yes the volume does impact how much to use. A recipe calculator will help you figure out how much to use for your recipe/size
@@TheBruSho sorry, do you mean those elements, like 202 calcium 101 sulfate should become something like 40/20 for 1 gallon? Thanks!
@@stevenstone307 Sorry I meant in grams/measurement. The Ratio or parts per million (ppm) do not change. you just scale the total amount to fit those ratios or ppm
@@TheBruSho awesome thank you!! I’ll be following this recipe as soon as I get some CO2
I just brewed my first NEIPA on my clawhammer, so far the color looks nice in the fermenter but I am quite afraid of oxidization when bottling/kegging after watching this video. I will have to try your recipe once I get my kegging system setup. I am buying an entire setup and extra brewing supplies this evening but it will be a few weeks as I will need to buy a regulator or two and some other supplies to get it up and running fully.
Haha didn’t mean to scare you but oxidation is definitely something to be mindful of but once you get your keg setup it should be pretty easy!
For people that dont have the capability to close transfer, I've had good success using my co2 tank to put a blanket of co2 on top of the beer and have had no issues with oxidation. Same when transferring to the keg. Just tested out transferring from fermenter to sanke and no problem as well.
Will this grain recipe work with any hops of my choice? Thanks!
For sure, I’d just say pick the fruitiest most tropical ones you can find. But any combo can work
@@TheBruSho thinking idaho 7, talus and Citra. Thoughts?
@@OPzMassivPr0z Sounds like a great combo
Excellent video but I am in the remedial water chemistry class. You said add: CA 136, MG 12, Na 40, CL 202,SO4 101, HCo3.Do you means grams? ie, 136 grams of CA?
Thanks and I meant Parts per million or PPM
Thanks. BTW, I have watched a million videos on beer making and your channel is one of the top two in my opinion. Im sure you would like to know the other one: David Heath-Homebrew. You are in good company.
Great video. Just a question here. Does releasing the pressure from the keg not filling it with oxygen again? :) Thanks
I don’t think so since the air is moving out. But you could use a spunding valve on the gas post instead to be extra safe
@@TheBruSho super thank you!!
Im going to try this recipe out. To get to 175F for the whirlpool hops do you use a wort chiller or just let it reach temp on its own? Thanks
Wort chiller would be a great way to get down fast, or you can wait if you have patience
@@TheBruSho thanks. This is my next brew. I got all the ingredients just figuring out when. Thanks for the recipe
So still being @ 50IBU, it is bitter, right?
How many lbs was your total grain bill ?? Kettle size and amount of strike water ?? Want to try in 8gal kettle
Lbs will depend on your efficiency but you can use a 8 gal kettle, you might need to reserve some water to sparge with after the mash
Love the taste of many of these NE IPAs and I love the ABV. I do however get the worst friggin headaches from these things. If I spend a night drinking them. I can be sure I'll be rocking a migraine all next day.
Are the numbers next to the minerals milligrams?
Parts per million
Nice!
how much ascorbic acid in a 5 gal keg?
Very good video !
Thank you! 🍻
Awesome video! Such a delicate style. But I've really enjoyed trying to get it right, and tips like these are super helpful. Also, if you want to avoid oxidation during cold crash, a super easy/cheap solution is to check out the Cold Crash Guardian from Brew Hardware. Basically an easier version of the balloon hack. Cheers!
Ohh interesting I’ll have to check that out. Thanks for sharing!
I have been clamping off my airlock after fermentation is complete, so I can cold crash without worrying about suckback.
I ditched dry hopping. No more oxidation. Just put all the hops in the whirlpool...
Same here! Loving the results
As a Brit I love hoppy beers and DIPA, but when I got tasting the IPA's from the USA I was smitten. So tasty and more-ish. But why drink it out of a jamjar? Did you run out of proper glasses?
Hahah I have plenty of glassware but wanted to try something funky for this one
How well a yeast flocs doesn't really correlate to a stable haze. Omega Yeast and others just recently spoke on this. Strain does matter, but more important is dry hop timing.
Good point and I’ll have to read up on that more!
Hi guy. Are your salts measured in grams? Thanks.
Yes usually since it’s such small amounts needed
@@TheBruSho brilliant. Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to trying this beer out. It looks like sunshine in a glass. Absolutely amazing. Thanks again. Pröst
Do you actually test these recipes multiple times before the videos or is it mainly based on research?
Some more than others. This one I’ve been working on. But some of the more wild ones I do it’s a swing for the fences haha
why does it matter how flocculating the yeast is. The haze shouldnt be coming from suspended yeast, correct? The haze are polyphenols?
Your right. Definitely the least important factor on this list.
Holy Crap what's going on with Hazy season right now! ApartmentBrewer, then you, i've got one carbing up in the Keg right now as well! 😂
Haha must be that time of year!
@@TheBruSho you might be right, love the orange juice look you managed to get going on!
@@NikitaVorontsov crazy right? And I feel like I use a lot less hops than a typical recipe I’ve seen
Mmmmmmm Beeralicious!🍻
😋🍻
How do I get the recipe for New England IPA
Calinda 🙏
Recipe is in the description!
And what about the pH and carbonation levels?
Does Anyone knows what is the Perfect pH and carbonrate for NEIPA?
ph of mash around 5.2 and carbonation around 10 psi. But carbonation is really up to your preference on how bubbly you want it.
No need dor threadtape. Just use the silicone gaskets. Also, grab some o clamps for the condenser.. they are leaky boys. Last thing, the instructions suck. If you use the thumper, make sure you attach the small copper pipe on the intake. The pictures look like they attach it to the condenser. Boiler isnt great on electric cook tops as it is bowed out. It is a juggle balancing the water intake and outake from the condensor... after all that, I am pulling nice 83% abv for my sanitiser 😊
спасибо!
So I used the recipe you provided, then I entered everything in BeerSmith 3. The end result looked NOTHING like your finished product. Inputting your OG, FG, Color, & IBUs changed the volume of grains & hops needed. Oh no! What to do? Shall I stick with BeerSmith since it adjusts for equipment & water? I hate to change anything before I brew a recipe. Your brew looks awfully sweet as is.
I would aim for the OG, FG, IBUs I gave and it’s ok if the amounts of grains and hops are different. As long as the end result is similar. That’s why I normally don’t like giving amounts of grains and stuff since everyone’s system is a little different
Most New Gen NEIPA lack bitterness IMO. All taste the same and become the industry lager of the craft beer industry
No dry hop at all? Fermentation drives off so many of the aroma/flavor compounds from any whirlpool or hopstand that you do
Like I said, do what you like! This turned out great to me
@@TheBruSho yeah not saying it doesn’t work, just pointing out the hop character you get on the end will be different. Probably not as bright as it could be. It would be interesting to compare a beer made this way aside a beer with a dry hop added. As an aside, are you aware of any of the breweries making the best hazies are doing so without a dry hop? Talking Hill Farmstead, Treehouse, Alchemist, etc. I’d be very interested to find out.
@@calder13 That might be a topic worth covering at some point!
I agree, I made a post calling this a poverty neipa. Perhaps this was a bit too harsh, since he obviously brewed a beer he liked and was content with - which is the most important. BUT if we want to brew the BEST neipa homebrew, I think most would agree that a dry hop is absolutely necessary. This beer recipe uses less hops than what is used in the official Sierra Nevada Pale Ale recipe!
1:05 😂😂😂
Is that Fanta?
Only a 4oz whirlpool and no dry hops? 😅 I use 12-16oz in my hazies 😎
Dang! Well as long as your enjoying it then I don’t see an issue with it! 🍻
@@TheBruSho I love it aggressively hoppy! Usually do 6-8 whirlpool and hotside total, then the remainder in two dry hops, one 2-3 days before packaging and one in the keg before closed transfer
We have a gluten-free brewery that refuses to brew a hazy. Makes me sad.
Sorry to hear that, you'll have to brew your own!
Honestly: Fermeting in a Keg takes care of most of the issues with oxygen, getting air sucked in while cold crashing etc... I'd just recommend people do that.
Perfect setup, imho:
Get 2 Kegs, in one swap the dip tube for a floating dip tube, or cut/bend the dip tube, so it doesn't reach all the way to the bottom. That's the keg you'll ferment in.
Put the wort in the keg, put 10 psi of pressure on it, put on a spunding valve and release pressure to 4 psi.
Fill the other keg with star san, hook the output of the spunding value on the fermentation keg up to the gas end of the star san keg and let the CO2 push out the star san into a bucket or your cleaning keg. Wait until the wildest part of the fermentation is over, tighten the spunding value to around 25psi and let it ride out.
To dry hop, release the pressure on the keg and put the hops in. The CO2 coming out of solution because of the pressure drop will help keep oxygen out.
Flush headspace with CO2, let it stand for 2 days - I feel like more contact time will not get more good stuff out of the hops.
Put the keg in the fridge and cold crash for 2 days.
Now you can transfer to the already pured and CO2 filled keg, leaving behind all the hops, yeast and trub in the other keg.
Only downside is that you'll not get a full keg of NEIPA out of this - unless you have one of these bigger kegs to ferment in or transfer into a smaller one :D.
Completely agree! It saves a lot of the headache. And if beginners get started with pressure fermenting then they are off to a great start!
You are very right about fermenting in the keg. I own a 7.5 gallons kegmenter and it has been a life saver for me when it comes to cold crushing and closed transfers. And the best part is I get full keg of beer ALL the time 😁😁😁
The real key is not to put your hops in a hop basket while whirlpooling and do not put your hops into some sack when dry hopping. You want full contact with every pellet to get the maximum from your hops.
For Yeast, Verdant IPA is my go too. It adds a lot of hazy and the perfect NEIPA flavour.