Thanks Wes! I've been planning on doing this to an old kitchen table I picked up for free. If it turns out nice, I'll pass it on to someone in need of a table. Congrats on hitting 50k subscribers!
Wow…Wes, your cerusing stuff has all been great. That piece turned out much better than I imagined with the gray (which I really like). I haven’t used this exact technique on any bigger stuff, but am working up to it. I have used wood dyes , moved to stains, poly’s and now pre cat lacquer, as I continue to learn. Thank you for your great instruction and teaching methods.
I am going to try this one day. I need to make new doors and make cabinets in the space above my existing cabinets. I do not have enough cabinet space. I do not like my cabinet door design. I found some other cabinets and built an island. I like those very simple doors. I need some more woodworking tools before I can make the doors. My uncle (who has passed) was a cabinet maker by trade. I WISH I had gone and learned from him years ago. I wanted to, but life with kids got in the way.
That is fantastic; Wes, you do such a great job educating us with such detail. I do have a question, most of the ceruse you've done is on finished wood. My hubby and I built a kitchen island; the cabinets are an unfinished oak. Would I still wire brush, before the primer base coat and glaze? I was just going to stain it black till I seen your technic, and absolutely love it. Thank You ever so much Sir, for your expertise, time and educational videos, it's richly appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
@@WoodworkingWithWes Wes did you ever get my question about whether or not I would be able to do cerusing on red cedar? I wasn’t sure if it was too soft of a wood?
@@MandyX19 Hi Mandy...sorry to have missed your question. I think you are right, it is probably too soft for the wire brush to enhance the grain probably for a ceruse finish. My best suggestion, would be to do a test sample and see if the results are what you are looking for. Hope this helps, thanks, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes I will try to find a piece. For some odd reason our local lumber yard doesn’t have red cedar in stock and hasn’t for a while now, so I may end up just going with my original plan. Thank you so much for the response!! Can’t wait for the next video!! Stay well!!
This is the coolest thing ever!! Your videos have inspired me to try this technique. We are buying unfinished oak cabinets from Sutherlands. The face/doors/drawers are unfinished wood. I have a couple of questions. Since the wood is unfinished do I still use the wire brush? Also since they are lower quality wood cabinets will they work for cerusing? Thanks for your videos and time!!
You have inspired me to try this technique on my kitchen cabinets. Just have one question... Can you use cabinet paint instead of colored/tinted primer?
Wes I love the way teach! I have a lot of golden oak. It’s amazing how tiring it is. I would love to do the kitchen and bathroom cabinets in cerusing technique but not the wainscotting, door and window trim, bi-fold doors, doors and baseboards. I would love to see how you would go about doing a toner. Something not too potent that I could spray in the house and using dyes and clear coat, I don’t want to hide the grain using stain. I just want to knock back the gold and brown it up a bit, make it richer.
Hi Mary...we do have another golden oak refinish video coming up that is more along the lines of what you are looking for (not cerusing). Keep watching, thanks Wes
This is an older video. Primecoat2 is not available that I can find. What do you recommend now in the Zinsser line? Or something different entirely? Love your videos!!
First of all I love these videos......second have a question...can you do this to wall paneling.? I have a room that is so dark and wanting to lighten up
We are currently trying out cerusing on our wood paneling. We recently bought a “new” house. It was built in 1980 and all the paneling is original. It’s really nice paneling with lots of graining and textures, however it’s so dark!!! I wanted to lighten it up, but not remove any of the character and so far cerusing is working.
I’ve watched several of your videos on this technique, I am doing white cabinets with a brown glaze and I am looking for a topcoat that will not yellow. Which topcoat do you suggest?
What would you suggest I clean my 30 + year old honey oak chairs and hutch with before starting this process?!?! There is obvious build up on he chairs as well as dust from being in storage?!!? Thx in advance.
Linda...I am sorry these are not products I have used before so I am not in a position to to give you a positive or negative response. You might want to do a test sample. Thanks for watching, Wes
Hi Wes, I really appreciate all of your instruction on cerusing. I wondered if you have shown a red oak cabinet finish with less base color. I'm kind of looking for the natural wood to show through with a white glaze to highlight the grain. Any suggestions would be helpful. I'm lucky enough to have a husband with painting skills and a downdraft booth.. What would be the toughest clear to put on after we get the look we are going for? He's a big fan of catalysts to harden (restores cars)...
I am assuming by your description, you have not yet painted your door. If that is the case, spray your door with a sanding sealer and apply the glaze color of your choice and then top coat. I think this would give you the effect you are looking for. A pre-cat lacquer is the best top coat. Hope this helps, Wes.
Great. Thank you so much for doing this process with products that are more readily available. I was wondering if you could do a cerise finish on stained wood. I’m curious to see how the process would differ. Thank you.
@@WoodworkingWithWes say you sand and stain the surface instead of painting it and then adding/buffing glaze. I would like to see a dark stain on oak with white or ivory or gray glaze. Thank you.
I would like to see this also! I want to stain my cabinets off white with a soft brown/gray grain color and I can only find colors I want in stain so I would love to see you do this!!!
I don't ceruse the inside of the doors and drawer faces but I do on the frames and end panels that are exposed. The inside of the doors and drawer faces we just paint with the base color...no glaze. Thank you, Wes
I love your videos, Wes! Especially this technique. I know next to nothing about painting or woodwork but I am about to do my entire kitchen cabinets in this style. I thought I purchased all the right things, but when I came home I had purchased wood stain instead of a glaze. Can I still use that? I am having a hard time understanding the difference between the two (stain vs glaze) for this technique. Please help! Or anyone can comment as well. I am redoing my entire kitchen by myself, so need all the help…
Hello Wes, I am the Zinsser Primer and sealer on oak wood and I get Bleed thru, I tried 3 Coates and still showing up? Then applying ML Campbell furniture glaze then top coat with Minwax polyurethane. How can o reduce the primer bleed thru?
Wes, there are several glazes at Lowes one is Valspar antiquing glaze. That comes in a dark and light the of color. Have you tried this along with your primer seal coat. Both are available locally.
Hi Wes! Wouldn't you know it. It seems Primecoat2 is no longer readily available at HD. It can be ordered to the store but they make you buy two gallons! I find myself looking for an alternative that's available at the store. Is it fair to say, all I need is a tintable primer like Zinsser 123? It is really the glaze that matters, right? I plan to order the glaze and tint from the links you provided but I wanted to get your thoughts on a sub for Primecoat2. Thanks for the great content!!
I providing you a link to a video that will answer your questions with the best producs we have found to date: Hope this helps, Wes th-cam.com/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Hrcvlix6BMSSFlJo
This is probably a stupid question, but could you hypothetically do the base prime coat and wait several days before doing the other steps? Very new to doing finishes and have some odd time constraints where I'm not sure how far along I'd get each session. Obviously I'd prefer getting through the entire set of steps at a time but hoping it's ok to stop in the middle if necessary. I assume it is, but just checking.
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thanks Wes. Just found your videos a few days ago and have been learning a lot from them. You do great work! Do you have any advice on sprayers? I’m not a pro so I’m not sure I’m wanting to spend hundreds of dollars right off the bat, but what do you recommend as a good middle ground? Would love to be able to spray the primer and lacquer like you demonstrate. I realize there are a lot of options, just looking for advice on type, mainly; airless, hvlp, etc. I have a small 6 gal air compressor but not sure if that’s of any use in making a decision.
The link you provided to Amazon for tintable glaze takes you to a different kind of glaze than what you are showing here in the video. I am having a hard time finding any glazes to use. My local Sherwin Williams stores no longer carry glazes and my local hardware stores don't have any either except Valspar. Can you not use a wax to rub into the wood grain? Also, would it be possible to put some type of topcoat on the base color to keep the glaze from getting all over the base coat? I am looking for ways to eliminate as much sanding after putting on the glaze. I hope someone can give me some answers on any of this. Thanks for all your amazing instructions!
Thanks Wes! My wife and I really like this ceruse look! Been watching your other videos and are almost ready to tackle our golden oak kitchen. Have a couple questions... 1. As you mentioned in a comment below, I know you can't test every product, but it seems you'd be able to use most high quality tintable primers suitable for application over existing finishes and wood. Are there any primers to specifically avoid? I really like ZINSSER® Cover-Stain® Oil-Base Primer and was planning to test that in this process. I know I need to be careful of fumes using the Oil-base primer, but if there's any other reason to avoid it, please let me know. 2. Looking at the products you've used in various videos: - water-based primers and pre cat laquer for base coat - water-based and oil-based glazes - Minwax Spar Urethane (water based) and pre-cat Laquer as a top coat Seems like there really isn't any concern about using water vs solvent based products for the various layers (primer, glaze, topcoat). Anything to be specifically concerned about with compatibility of solvent vs water-base products between the primer, glaze and topcoat layers of this process?
Hi Dave...I am not familiar with Zinsser. A good rule of thumb on all painting projects is just to make sure each layer is completely dry before you apply the next layer. You shouldn't run into any compatibility problem that way. I hope this helps and if possible, please do a test on the back of a door or drawer face. Thanks, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes I assume you meant you're not familiar with the Cover-Stain® Oil-Base Primer since the Primecoat 2 product you are using in this video is a ZINSSER® product ; ) I will definitely make sure things are dry and do a test. Thanks for the idea and the tips!
When you did your cerusing video on the different types of wood you did a light sanding after the glaze before top coat. You did not do that here. Should it be part of the process or not? Thanks.
Just curious why thin it if you can use a paint sprayer with an extra fine tip ? Is it better to have the thin layer of the top coat ?? Or is this ONLY so you can spray it with your hvlp ???
I use a pre-cat lacquer for my top coat. We have been doing additional research and have recently posted a video with alternative products as well as another one coming up this weekend. Hope this will help. Thanks, Wes
Would you possibly try this with some sherwin Williams products, it scares me ordering a glaze from Amazon a bit. But I would think a sherwin Williams is something most city’s have.
So I bought the products from Home Depot, you felt the prime coat was too thick to spray. What if you use a paint brush should we still and the water or keep it thick?
Hi Becky...I didn't test with a paint brush but I think you will still have to thin it a little bit. Perhaps 2 parts paint to 1 part water. Do a small test sample to ensure a smooth even coat. Hope this helps. Wes
Hey Wes, I'm wondering if I can skip the primer step and just do the wire brushing and the glaze. I'd like wood color with a light "liming" kind of effect.
Hi...check your local paint provider for a tinted primer sealer to use as your base coat and inquire about glazing products that are available. Thanks for watching, Wes
Thank you so much for your generous reply. In Canada glazing products are not readily available when I have inquired at paint shops in a few cities. I did find a hard wax uroul but the grains did not pop as hoped. I’ve wondered if the polyurethane after the white primer sealed too much. Could it possibly turn out better if I put the glaze on directly after the priming white coat(s)?
@@shandawoodin1082 I am not sure your hard wax product will work as a glaze. I have been in contact with ML Campbell Tech Services in Canada at 800-364-1359. They should be able to help you with a Canadian source for ML Campbell furniture glaze which I have found works very well. Your glaze can be applied directly to your primer coat if it is a primer sealer, otherwise, you have to apply a clear sealer coat between the primer and the glaze.
You are FREAKIN AWESOME!! Your passion & sincerity shines in each video & is SO SO SO APPRECIATED!! TRULY!! Keep 'em comin' please!!
You ROCK!! 🤘
Haha...thanks for your comment. I will keep the videos coming ! Wes
I can’t wait to do this to my kitchen cabinets!
Thanks Wes! I've been planning on doing this to an old kitchen table I picked up for free. If it turns out nice, I'll pass it on to someone in need of a table. Congrats on hitting 50k subscribers!
Hi Jeff...thank you, sounds like a great project and a great way to help someone else. Wes
That is AWESOME, especially being able to do it inside because no fumes with this! Thank you so much!!!
You are very welcome Cindy...thanks for the comment. Wes
Working with Wes is my modern day Bob Ross. 🥺
Wow…Wes, your cerusing stuff has all been great. That piece turned out much better than I imagined with the gray (which I really like). I haven’t used this exact technique on any bigger stuff, but am working up to it. I have used wood dyes , moved to stains, poly’s and now pre cat lacquer, as I continue to learn. Thank you for your great instruction and teaching methods.
Thanks Patrick for being a positive part of our community and using our videos to inspire you to new heights. :)) Wes
Great tutorial. Thanks Wes.
Glad you enjoyed it...thanks Wes
Great job. Thanks for being honest regarding the drying time:)
Thanks for your comment...I appreciate your support. Wes
I am going to try this one day. I need to make new doors and make cabinets in the space above my existing cabinets. I do not have enough cabinet space. I do not like my cabinet door design. I found some other cabinets and built an island. I like those very simple doors. I need some more woodworking tools before I can make the doors. My uncle (who has passed) was a cabinet maker by trade. I WISH I had gone and learned from him years ago. I wanted to, but life with kids got in the way.
Thank you for sharing this nice comment.I am sure your desire to learn will be well rewarded. Thanks for watching. Wes
Loved the technique.👍🏻💜
Thanks for watching!! Wes
That is fantastic; Wes, you do such a great job educating us with such detail. I do have a question, most of the ceruse you've done is on finished wood. My hubby and I built a kitchen island; the cabinets are an unfinished oak. Would I still wire brush, before the primer base coat and glaze? I was just going to stain it black till I seen your technic, and absolutely love it. Thank You ever so much Sir, for your expertise, time and educational videos, it's richly appreciated 👍🏻👍🏻
Love it! Looks great!
Thank you !!
@@WoodworkingWithWes Wes did you ever get my question about whether or not I would be able to do cerusing on red cedar? I wasn’t sure if it was too soft of a wood?
@@MandyX19 Hi Mandy...sorry to have missed your question. I think you are right, it is probably too soft for the wire brush to enhance the grain probably for a ceruse finish. My best suggestion, would be to do a test sample and see if the results are what you are looking for. Hope this helps, thanks, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes I will try to find a piece. For some odd reason our local lumber yard doesn’t have red cedar in stock and hasn’t for a while now, so I may end up just going with my original plan. Thank you so much for the response!! Can’t wait for the next video!! Stay well!!
This is the coolest thing ever!!
Your videos have inspired me to try this technique.
We are buying unfinished oak cabinets from Sutherlands. The face/doors/drawers are unfinished wood.
I have a couple of questions.
Since the wood is unfinished do I still use the wire brush? Also since they are lower quality wood cabinets will they work for cerusing?
Thanks for your videos and time!!
You have inspired me to try this technique on my kitchen cabinets. Just have one question... Can you use cabinet paint instead of colored/tinted primer?
Wes I love the way teach! I have a lot of golden oak. It’s amazing how tiring it is. I would love to do the kitchen and bathroom cabinets in cerusing technique but not the wainscotting, door and window trim, bi-fold doors, doors and baseboards. I would love to see how you would go about doing a toner. Something not too potent that I could spray in the house and using dyes and clear coat, I don’t want to hide the grain using stain. I just want to knock back the gold and brown it up a bit, make it richer.
Hi Mary...we do have another golden oak refinish video coming up that is more along the lines of what you are looking for (not cerusing). Keep watching, thanks Wes
Hi Wes, do you think Cerus process we’ll be easy to do on a China cabinet with glass?
Nice 👌
Can I do this with a super dark red and a golden brown??
This is an older video. Primecoat2 is not available that I can find. What do you recommend now in the Zinsser line? Or something different entirely? Love your videos!!
Can you roll or brush on the primer or it need to be sprayed? Same for the poly top coat
How do you handle the large veneers on the ends of the cabinet?
Could we apply the primer and finish coat with a brush as apposed to spraying?
Yes...these are products that can be applied with a paint brush. Thanks for watching, Wes
First of all I love these videos......second have a question...can you do this to wall paneling.? I have a room that is so dark and wanting to lighten up
We are currently trying out cerusing on our wood paneling. We recently bought a “new” house. It was built in 1980 and all the paneling is original. It’s really nice paneling with lots of graining and textures, however it’s so dark!!! I wanted to lighten it up, but not remove any of the character and so far cerusing is working.
Question: After the application of the zinnzer 2 prime and sealer and before the glaze application, do you sand the primer?
Can i use stain too
Hi Wes, I have to apply PRIMER before the lacquer paint?. Please advise.
Mr. Wes can you use this primer paint with brush on technique if you don’t have a sprayer.
There are primers available for paint brush and roller and we have demonstrated that on some of our other videos. Thanks for watching, Wes
I’ve watched several of your videos on this technique, I am doing white cabinets with a brown glaze and I am looking for a topcoat that will not yellow. Which topcoat do you suggest?
Hi...I use pre-cat lacquer. Thanks for watching, Wes
What would you suggest I clean my 30 + year old honey oak chairs and hutch with before starting this process?!?! There is obvious build up on he chairs as well as dust from being in storage?!!? Thx in advance.
can you use Benjamin Moore Alkyd glaze with the Zinsser water based prime/sealer paint? Thank you Linda
Linda...I am sorry these are not products I have used before so I am not in a position to to give you a positive or negative response. You might want to do a test sample. Thanks for watching, Wes
Hi Wes, I really appreciate all of your instruction on cerusing. I wondered if you have shown a red oak cabinet finish with less base color. I'm kind of looking for the natural wood to show through with a white glaze to highlight the grain. Any suggestions would be helpful. I'm lucky enough to have a husband with painting skills and a downdraft booth.. What would be the toughest clear to put on after we get the look we are going for? He's a big fan of catalysts to harden (restores cars)...
I am assuming by your description, you have not yet painted your door. If that is the case, spray your door with a sanding sealer and apply the glaze color of your choice and then top coat. I think this would give you the effect you are looking for. A pre-cat lacquer is the best top coat. Hope this helps, Wes.
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thank you Wes! I appreciate the specific advice. Can't wait to try it! ;)
Great. Thank you so much for doing this process with products that are more readily available. I was wondering if you could do a cerise finish on stained wood. I’m curious to see how the process would differ. Thank you.
Hi...sorry I am not clear with your question since golden oak is a stained wood. Thanks Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes say you sand and stain the surface instead of painting it and then adding/buffing glaze. I would like to see a dark stain on oak with white or ivory or gray glaze. Thank you.
@@lfuentes4098 Thank you for clarifying. I have never tried that before but sounds like a great idea for a future video. Wes
I would like to see this also! I want to stain my cabinets off white with a soft brown/gray grain color and I can only find colors I want in stain so I would love to see you do this!!!
I’m excited to try this in my kitchen. Do you Ceruse the inside of the doors too? What about the cabinet frame?
I don't ceruse the inside of the doors and drawer faces but I do on the frames and end panels that are exposed. The inside of the doors and drawer faces we just paint with the base color...no glaze. Thank you, Wes
Hi Wes. I was wondering if you had a video about your extractor wall shown 13:50 during the clearcoat application?
That is the filter wall of our spray booth...watch for a spray booth tour video to give you more insight. Thanks for the visit. Wes
Can i use this process with wood floors?
I love your videos, Wes! Especially this technique. I know next to nothing about painting or woodwork but I am about to do my entire kitchen cabinets in this style. I thought I purchased all the right things, but when I came home I had purchased wood stain instead of a glaze. Can I still use that? I am having a hard time understanding the difference between the two (stain vs glaze) for this technique. Please help! Or anyone can comment as well. I am redoing my entire kitchen by myself, so need all the help…
Can you tell us about top coat specs? Thanks.
Hello Wes,
I am the Zinsser Primer and sealer on oak wood and I get Bleed thru, I tried 3 Coates and still showing up?
Then applying ML Campbell furniture glaze then top coat with Minwax polyurethane.
How can o reduce the primer bleed thru?
I have same question - how to reduce / eliminate bleed thru on old oak wood.
I love this but what do I use if I don't have a paint sprayer?
Check out our many videos on the channel using a paint brush and roller for the same process. Thanks, Wes
Can I ceruse my ash cabinets (I think they are plywood with ash veneer)
Like you man I’m from Lebanon I’m painting wood 😊
Wow...thanks for your comments. Glad you have joined our community. Wes
If M.L. Campbell products are not available in your location, what brand brand would be recommended?
What product did you use for the top/clear coat
Could I use an oil-based polyurethane top coat?
Yes I think that would work. Thanks for watching, Wes
what color do you paint the cabinet frames?
Wes, there are several glazes at Lowes one is Valspar antiquing glaze. That comes in a dark and light the of color. Have you tried this along with your primer seal coat. Both are available locally.
I tried it and was disappointed by that product.
I have not tried that product but as I always suggest, give it a test and see what you think. Thanks for watching. Wes
Hi Wes! Wouldn't you know it. It seems Primecoat2 is no longer readily available at HD. It can be ordered to the store but they make you buy two gallons! I find myself looking for an alternative that's available at the store. Is it fair to say, all I need is a tintable primer like Zinsser 123? It is really the glaze that matters, right? I plan to order the glaze and tint from the links you provided but I wanted to get your thoughts on a sub for Primecoat2. Thanks for the great content!!
I providing you a link to a video that will answer your questions with the best producs we have found to date: Hope this helps, Wes
th-cam.com/video/kZDk0CBRS3I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Hrcvlix6BMSSFlJo
Wes will this glaze work on plywood? It has a lot of grain in it. Thanks
I have had success with oak veneered plywood on several occasions. Give it a try...thanks for watching, Wes
Lovely! I like your painting set up. Curious what you made the wall behind the door you were spraying out of, is there a fan behind it?
Hi Lisa...yes, that is the filter wall of the spray booth. Thanks for watching. Wes
could you use 1 to 1 ratio painting with a brush?
This is probably a stupid question, but could you hypothetically do the base prime coat and wait several days before doing the other steps? Very new to doing finishes and have some odd time constraints where I'm not sure how far along I'd get each session. Obviously I'd prefer getting through the entire set of steps at a time but hoping it's ok to stop in the middle if necessary. I assume it is, but just checking.
It would be perfectly ok to wait between steps. Good luck with your project I am sure it will be great! Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thanks Wes. Just found your videos a few days ago and have been learning a lot from them. You do great work!
Do you have any advice on sprayers? I’m not a pro so I’m not sure I’m wanting to spend hundreds of dollars right off the bat, but what do you recommend as a good middle ground? Would love to be able to spray the primer and lacquer like you demonstrate. I realize there are a lot of options, just looking for advice on type, mainly; airless, hvlp, etc. I have a small 6 gal air compressor but not sure if that’s of any use in making a decision.
The link you provided to Amazon for tintable glaze takes you to a different kind of glaze than what you are showing here in the video. I am having a hard time finding any glazes to use. My local Sherwin Williams stores no longer carry glazes and my local hardware stores don't have any either except Valspar. Can you not use a wax to rub into the wood grain? Also, would it be possible to put some type of topcoat on the base color to keep the glaze from getting all over the base coat? I am looking for ways to eliminate as much sanding after putting on the glaze. I hope someone can give me some answers on any of this. Thanks for all your amazing instructions!
Sorry I am not familiar with a wax application. Thanks, Wes
Curious why you did not use floetrol to thin it
Not a product I am familiar with...what is it? Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes It's a paint extender you add to paint. I think adding water was best because you just needed to thin it out to spray.
Can you just paint on the top coat instead of spray? Also, can you use a polyethylene vs the lacquer?
Sir how I make white water based and grains black
Can I use same process for bedroom furniture...it is oak
Yes you can. I suggest looking at our latest video on a better glaze product. th-cam.com/video/-FSoaeDcSjg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, Wes
Hi Wes do you ever use dry spray glaze ?
No..I have never used that product. In fact, I am not even familiar with it. Thanks for watching, Wes
Can you use that primer sealer with a brush and roller?
Please check out our other videos with this cerusing process using brush and roller application. Thanks for watching, Wes
What is the difference between platinum series furniture & cabinetry glazing cream and the tintable glaze
Do a sample to test. View some of our other cerusing videos for additional color options.
Thank you, Wes
Thanks Wes! My wife and I really like this ceruse look! Been watching your other videos and are almost ready to tackle our golden oak kitchen. Have a couple questions...
1. As you mentioned in a comment below, I know you can't test every product, but it seems you'd be able to use most high quality tintable primers suitable for application over existing finishes and wood. Are there any primers to specifically avoid? I really like ZINSSER®
Cover-Stain® Oil-Base Primer and was planning to test that in this process. I know I need to be careful of fumes using the Oil-base primer, but if there's any other reason to avoid it, please let me know.
2. Looking at the products you've used in various videos:
- water-based primers and pre cat laquer for base coat
- water-based and oil-based glazes
- Minwax Spar Urethane (water based) and pre-cat Laquer as a top coat
Seems like there really isn't any concern about using water vs solvent based products for the various layers (primer, glaze, topcoat). Anything to be specifically concerned about with compatibility of solvent vs water-base products between the primer, glaze and topcoat layers of this process?
Hi Dave...I am not familiar with Zinsser. A good rule of thumb on all painting projects is just to make sure each layer is completely dry before you apply the next layer. You shouldn't run into any compatibility problem that way. I hope this helps and if possible, please do a test on the back of a door or drawer face. Thanks, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes I assume you meant you're not familiar with the Cover-Stain® Oil-Base Primer since the Primecoat 2 product you are using in this video is a ZINSSER® product ; ) I will definitely make sure things are dry and do a test. Thanks for the idea and the tips!
Is'nt there a glaze I can also get at a big box locally?
Chris...check with your big box store or local paint provider for glazing product options. Thanks, Wes
I saw that Air-assisted airless behind ya. YOU HOLDIN OUT ON US WESS?
When you did your cerusing video on the different types of wood you did a light sanding after the glaze before top coat. You did not do that here. Should it be part of the process or not? Thanks.
Maybe you’ve already done this but can you talk about what you do with the cabinet that the doors are on? Do they get the same treatment?
Yes the cabinets get the same treatment. Thanks. Wes
Wes could you show us how wire brush does on pine
With ceruse
Please watch our video on the channel of 11 different woods done with this technique. Thanks for watching, Wes
Do you think there will be tannin bleeding through the water based products?
There shouldn't be with a good quality water based sealer. Thanks for watching. Wes
Just curious why thin it if you can use a paint sprayer with an extra fine tip ? Is it better to have the thin layer of the top coat ?? Or is this ONLY so you can spray it with your hvlp ???
I thinned the paint only for ease of spray with my equipment. Thanks for watching. Wes
I love this process but don’t have access to a sprayer. Can this be done with brushes?
Tom..we have additional videos on the channel using brushes and rollers. Good luck with your project. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thanks, I’ll look for those videos. Appreciate the response
What type of clear coat did you use ?
I use a pre-cat lacquer for my top coat. We have been doing additional research and have recently posted a video with alternative products as well as another one coming up this weekend. Hope this will help. Thanks, Wes
what happens if you do not use a sealer paint?
Would you have left the consistency if you were using a brush instead of a sprayer?
Pam...the product that I was using is a spray only product. Thanks for watching. Wes
What would you think of using this with pine? I want to take the cruddy carpet off the steps to my basement and try this.
We have done a video showing "cerusing 11 different kinds of wood" and that will help you making a decision on your pine. Thanks for watching. Wes
Would you possibly try this with some sherwin Williams products, it scares me ordering a glaze from Amazon a bit. But I would think a sherwin Williams is something most city’s have.
Sorry...it really would be impossible for me to test every available product in every area. Thanks for visiting. Wes
Thank you!
Thanks for watching Patsy. :))
where were you yesterday? The paint was thick and covered all the beauty of the oak. I'm crying
Is it possible to ceruse with stain instead of paint?
No...not that I am aware of. This is the only application that I have done. Thanks for watching. Wes
Can you ceruse a dark oak cabinet? All I ever see videos on are light oak or honey oak.
Yes...you can ceruse any color of stain with the paint and glaze process that I demonstrate. Thanks Wes
So I bought the products from Home Depot, you felt the prime coat was too thick to spray. What if you use a paint brush should we still and the water or keep it thick?
Hi Becky...I didn't test with a paint brush but I think you will still have to thin it a little bit. Perhaps 2 parts paint to 1 part water. Do a small test sample to ensure a smooth even coat. Hope this helps. Wes
Can you send me the link how you built the fence for that router table
th-cam.com/video/LQgURQ40EXM/w-d-xo.html
Wes's router table build
Great suggestion...we will do an upcoming video showing the fence construction. Thank you. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes super thanks
Hi Wes, where is your workshop located?
Hi...the shop is currently located in Northern Utah. :))
When u say top coat what is that
Top coat is the final clear finish...usually lacquer or polyurethane. Thanks for watching, Wes
what about KILZ2 primer & sealer?
Hi Heather....sorry I am not familiar with that product, you could give it a test. Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes Thank you. What about Sherwin Williams' Sher-Wood Glaze? It is an alkyd glaze.
Hey Wes, I'm wondering if I can skip the primer step and just do the wire brushing and the glaze. I'd like wood color with a light "liming" kind of effect.
Give it a try and see what you think. Thanks for watching. Wes
Does it have to be Golden Oak??
No, however, golden oak has been the most common finish I have been trying to help our audience with. Thanks for watching, Wes
Its beautiful. The person snoring it cheifs kiss. Lol
both of these products are not available in Canada unfortunately . 😞
Hi...check your local paint provider for a tinted primer sealer to use as your base coat and inquire about glazing products that are available. Thanks for watching, Wes
Thank you so much for your generous reply. In Canada glazing products are not readily available when I have inquired at paint shops in a few cities. I did find a hard wax uroul but the grains did not pop as hoped. I’ve wondered if the polyurethane after the white primer sealed too much. Could it possibly turn out better if I put the glaze on directly after the priming white coat(s)?
@@shandawoodin1082 I am not sure your hard wax product will work as a glaze. I have been in contact with ML Campbell Tech Services in Canada at 800-364-1359.
They should be able to help you with a Canadian source for ML Campbell furniture glaze which I have found works very well.
Your glaze can be applied directly to your primer coat if it is a primer sealer, otherwise, you have to apply a clear sealer coat between the primer and the glaze.
Wess, M.L.Campbell gell glaze is only reconised by a product number,can you supply us with your product no. Thank you, Mike
Mike...we have just done a new video on another product line that I think you will find helpful. Wes
At 12:53 sounds like someone snoring in the background 😅
I like your videos, but I’ve never you show more then one “test” panel. I’d like to see the whole kitchen when you finished.
This is a demonstration of a process...certainly don't need a whole kitchen to do that. Thanks for watching, Wes
Amazon has already run out of the tintable glaze. Your video probably caused a run on the stuff...
Good video except for the heavy breathing cameraman at the end. It's distracting from what Wes is saying.
Is someone snoring off camera?
Sounded like it close to the end there.
NOPE...we are all awake over here 😀
@@WoodworkingWithWes Your camera person must have been close to the mic, we could hear him/her breathing.
Who is snoring? 😂
Q
Who’s is breathing…?