Fiskars axe Rolled Edge Issue and How to Fix
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ม.ค. 2021
- This is a short video to help those out who are worried or have experienced a rolled edge with a Fiskars axe or hatchet.
In this video I cover the issue some people have damaging the edge on their Fiskars the first time they use it. I will show in simple terms what causes this issue and how it can be easily fixed with just a few minutes of preventive maintenance.
If you are looking for a sheath for a Fiskars axe here is the link to my seller page on Ebay: www.ebay.com/sch/ratherbwheel...
These are affiliate links that provide a commission to me if you use them at no cost to you, these are some of the items used in the video.
NOPE!
THESE BELOW ARE NOT AFFILIATE LINKS, I AM TRYING TO HELP SMALLER BUSINESSES!!
DMT pocket sharpener : cutleryshoppe.com/dmt-d3f-3-d...
Worksharp sharpener:
harrodoutdoors.com/shop
OR HERE:
SPORTSMANS GUIDE...NO LINK AS THEY SELL NO-NO ITEMS BUT THEY DO HAVE IN STOCK.
More information can be found in the description box.
Great tutorial. I rolled a few edges on my Fiskars (I only have 5 of them) before I caught on to re-profiling the edge. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Mark, I also rolled a few flat ground axes before and carried those lessons foward when I purchased the Fiskars!
Thanks for the video. My first outing with my 36 inch splitter resulted in edge carnage! Quite a few chunks out of the edge. This must be why. I'll re-profile as suggested.
I’m always learning from this channel. Thanks for uploading man I appreciate it knowledgeable is key 🔐
Thank you, glad it was useful!
I bought a Fiskars hatchet a decade ago, and the factory edge rolled almost immediately. I used the Fiskars axe sharpener on it, and I haven't had any issues with it since.
Very helpful info. Solid, quality channel here, man. Anytime I see you've posted a new vid, I know it'll be well worth watching. Especially enjoy your vids on the CS hawks. ATB
Thank you for the kind words, I am glad the video is of interest!
A trick: watch movies on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Roberto Legend Yup, been using flixzone for years myself :)
I love my X7 Fiskars, easy to mantain and no handle wories comfortable use and light to carry
I have an X7, but I haven’t seen that new handle, very cool. Excellent information. 💪🏻🇺🇸💪🏻
I think it has been out for a while but not many available in US yet, The price is a bit high but still a nice hatchet.
Outstanding tutorial video! Thank you for the information!
Glad it was useful!
I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with a Fiskars problem. I can quit any time, (they stop making great stuff).
Great explanation and demonstration. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Thanks for saving my axe man! Appreciate the video. 👍🏼
Useful video for sure. I noticed that my Fiskar hatchet had soft steel. It was sharp as F' but I like the way you re-profiled it. With very little effort it seems. I will have to buy a stone to do that to mine. I think I'm liking the work sharp as it can sharpen other things effectively as well. For 25 bucks. Educational video friend.
Thank you, glad you found it useful. the worksharp field sharpener has been very handy for sharpening lots of stuff, from fish hooks to axes I really like it!
Good video, good technique.
Got my first axe, it’s a Fiskars, can’t wait to try it!
Thanks, Fiskars makes a great tool!
I have this rolling effect on my Fiskars X7. Rolling appeared just after first use of chopping hard wood. Thanks for the tip, I'm going to try it out.
Thanks for the feedback, hope it worked out for you!
Love to see you making vids man keep them coming 🤘🤘👍
Nice tip. I'll consider doing this for my Fiskars that's well over a decade old. This is also a great strategy for knives. I do micro bevels on my blades if they happen to be very thin hollow grinds or flat grinds.
How does that micro bevel work in a serrated blade that is hollow ground?
@@urjnlegend I don't have many serrated knives. It's been years since I sharpened one. I think I used ceramic rods to sharpen each concave tooth of the serrated blade. I think the concept of a micro bevel would work just as well for serrated blades. Slightly reduced sharpness in favor of more strength and fold/chip resistance.
Yeah. You need to adjust the edge to what you're cutting. Same goes for Mora knives which will also benefit from a secondary bevel when you are cutting very hard woods etc. Only thing I'd do differently: I'd hold the hatchet/axe fast and move the little diamond card.
This video is very good . Having a stainless steel hatchet or axe = Not so good. Thanks for some very good ideas.
I love that guided field sharpener, used it to put an actual edge on my crkt chogan tomahawk as well as fix some edge damage on my Gransfors Scandinavian Forest Axe.
Nice presentation 👍, useful
Thanks, glad it was of use to you!
Great video 👍
Nice collection of Fiskars axes.
I have a weak spot for those Fiskars axes.
The one piece handle construction, the ergonomics of the handle.
The extremely toughness of the handle.
And yeah, sharpen the axe a bit, a little convex with sandpaper is fine too.
No rehandling issues.
I was not a big fan of the Fiskars for a long time, however I purchased an X15 to mount on my truck for recovery gear. I figured the handle would hold up to the elements better than wood. I liked it enough to buy the X7 and quickly found that I liked them very much. I still prefer a classic wood handle tool but do not feel at a loss carrying the Fiskars at all. I especially like the X11, decent all around use, compact enough to pack but has enough heft to split larger rounds.
Sounds like a support group is needed. I understand, and just bought 2 more yesterday.
@@Scablands_Scavenger I just bought the x11. And no I don't have a problem. ok maybe.
@@FeguerFineArt
Maybe?
So what happened.
I put a convex edge on mine using the towel method where you use a tea towel to put 4 or 5 bevels on the edge resulting in a convex profile by using the folded towel as a guide starting with it folded in half, laying the head of the hatchet on the towel and working both sides then folding in half again and working both sides, folding and working both edges two or three more times, laying the head on the towel and using it as an angle guide each time. You only have to do five to ten strokes per side each time and you end up with a nicely convex and sharp edge that will not roll or chip and bites in nicely withòut slipping while retaining the edge longer. Felix Immler has a tutorial on his channel on how to do it.
Great video thanks!!!
glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
Nice hoodie!
I currently have 3 fiskars axes, 2 chopping (hatchet and 20 inch model), and the larger splitting axe. My question to you is where did you get those kydex sheaths? I would love to get one for my hatchet and my backpacking axe the 20 inch as well.
Also thank you for the very simple and easy to understand guide on how to sharpen as well as fix an already damaged edge.
My same question those sheaths are nice. Could you post a link where you got them? Thanks
Great Tips. Should help out a lot of people.
Maybe you can give tips to people new to belt sharpening machines too. Couldn't hurt right ?
Thanks, hope someone finds it useful! I might re make my sharpening video in the future because I get many people asking how I sharpen. I honestly do not use my belt sander much, I normally use a 4" grinder with sanding disc to re profile and finish with hand tools.
Greetings from Finland.
HI, Thanks for this video, I have an X7 coming and will do this . I was looking at buying the leather sheath. What do you prefer about the plastic type?
Well I am a little biased, I used to make the kydex ones ha ha.... the main reason I prefer the kydex to leather is durability in wet weather. I had several issues with leather failing when wet. Once during a winter camp one of my sheaths got sopping wet, on the return trip my axe was on the floorboard of my truck and with the heater going it dried out too fast in one spot and the leather cracked. Another time I had a small hatchet in my pack, leather was again sopping wet and from jostling around the sheath slipped up a little and the axe sliced through the side of the wet leather. There are pros and cons I guess to both. the plastic will hold moisture against the blade and promote rust, but unlike leather it can be dried out faster. Kydex can warp and lose shape in extreme heat peak summer 100plus in a parked car for instance. Because it is close fitting, if the blade is put in dirty can imbed grit into the plastic scratching the blade. The kydex does work better for larger axes that are vehicle mounted (overlanding type mounts etc) where leather would not do well exposed to the elements for long periods.
Thanks a lot! :)
хороший контент.
удивляет малое количество просмотров, ведь информация о заточке топора действительно ценная.
спасибо за видео.
Just bought a fiskars x7 hatchet and it actually has that secondary bevel on it already.. curious if that was added on the new ones
Maybe, I have noticed they all are not quite the same profile. Might be why some people have issues and others do not.
Do you do the same with other axes, hatchets, and tomahawks?
I use X7 andx17. would like to ask, in order to prevent chips, if I have to sharpen it first flat and after sharpening, put the secondary bevel increasing the angle? Which grit do you prefer for secondary bevel, coarse, medium or fine?
That took far less than I was guessing. Thanks for showing.
Hey I cant find any reviews by you on the Fiskars N series? You said you tested and so just wondering how it held up? Was the wood to polymer fitment solid?
Thanks
Do you make those kdex sheaths how much I need one for my n12 and my x7
Yes I make the sheaths in the video, I have a seller page on Ebay the link is in the description box. I have a few x7 in stock but no X11/N12 at the moment.
in new model, the steel was better than old versions or not ?
I think they are the same material/heat treat, but do not know for sure. I have found them to perform similarly.
Who makes the Kydex covers for the Fiskars axes???
The sheaths are made by me, I have a link to my seller page in the description.
I got a fiskars norden n7 and the edge is already chipped. How do you fix that?
I would use a coarse stone/diamond steel... possibly a fine file if available to work the edge down until the chips are removed. Then re profile as shown in the video with small secondary bevel to prevent it from happening again.
Got many years ago a Fiskars X5 and a X7 and today ordered a X10
They are great axes, and still a fair price!
What grit is that diamond sharpener that you used to re profile and sharpen the edge?
I believe it is fine, 600 mesh for the DMT pocket card.
@@Scablands_Scavenger It took a while lol . Thanks all the same 😀. Cheers 🍻
PS: After you do this and after you use it, it will get dull. How do you sharpen it then, with this secondary bevel, please?
You can sharpen it the same way you put the bevel on, go with the same angle (as close as possible) unless the edge was damaged it should only take a few passes on each side. after a while you will get a feel for it. You can also color the edge with a sharpie pen to see where you are taking material off if that helps.
I didn't know fiskars had a wooden handle available pretty cool
Partial Wooden Handle 😆
They have been out for a while in Finland/Europe and just starting to show up in US. Kind of spendy but a nice hatchet. I purchased mainly for sheath making.
thank you subscribed
Thanks so much for great advice an keepin us all safe!!!
Thanks for sharing
Paul 23.49 gmt thanks
So, how's the wooden-handle Fiskars holding up? I've always wanted one but not knowing how the wooden part is attached (or even replacable, especially in the field) I'm kinda afraid. :)
I only purchased it to ensure the sheaths I was making would fit with the x-7 and x-5 model line. I would not buy it again, handle is bigger around and feels unbalanced to me. I purchased 2 of them (7&10 models) and one developed a split at the end of handle. Not worth the extra price in my opinion.
What kind of sheath is that you have on the Fiskars axes ? Where can we buy them ? Cheers 🍻
The sharpener is the "fine" mesh, 600 I believe. The sheath is made by me, I have listed links to both in the video description, thanks for watching!
@@Scablands_Scavenger Thank you kindly. Cheers 🍻 🍻
Yo, where did you get the kydex sheaths!?
I make them and sell them on Ebay. I am currently only shipping to the US though : www.ebay.com/usr/ratherbwheelin
@@Scablands_Scavenger I’ve already ordered one from you. Thanks!
@@kennyburkhart3543 Thank you, On its way!
Hi
Very useful video, from where you have the sheath of the axe?
I am glad it was useful! The sheaths I make myself.
Prior to 3:00 it used to seem like I owned a sizeable collection of axes.
*P.S., Easy to fix, but a bit surprising Fiskars would ship flat like that when an ax without a convex grind pretty much has to have a compound bevel to be useable.
Ha ha, yeah my collection has grown in the last year. Most of these I purchased for making sheaths, the Fiskars are probably my top seller. I agree...it is odd they ship these out with the edge profile they do considering the number of people I have seen give poor reviews. From what I understand they use a very highly automated process to make them, I guess they don't want to add that little bit of labor to tune the edge.
@@Scablands_Scavenger That's probably the case. Fiskars could see it as a manufacturing cost savings that's ideal since the axes' users will need to put a compound bevel on numerous times during the life of the product. They might want to put a little sticker or tag on new axes alerting the user to apply their preferred tune to the edge. Since there's a lot of bad reviews, there's clearly many purchases being made by customers who are new to axes.
I have used Fiskars axes with the factory edge and the only thing I noticed was the deformation of the heavy teflon coating on the X series. The edges themselves do not actually deform despite the internet myths.
@@turtlewolfpack6061 watch the wranglerstar x27 review, my factory edge did basically the same on my x25 and its never touched anything but wood and some tire rubber.
@@ryan92084 I wouldn't watch one of his videos if I was paid too. He has ZERO credibility when it comes to anything. Fact is, if you actually have a lemon then Fiskars will replace it, lifetime warranty. Fact, I know that Fiskars axes and splitters have been (by me and others) in extreme cold for years with zero issues.
Are you still making sheaths?
Can you do this with a bastard file?
Sure, if that is what you want to use I don't see why it wouldn't work just fine.
This is the 600 grit diamond card?
Pretty sure it is the Fine mesh/600 DMT card. Mine lost the sticker years ago.
@@Scablands_Scavenger Thank you!
Every one always tells me I have to try a Fiskars hatchet/axe bc I refuse to ever buy a non-wooden handle. The first swing on the Fiskars hatchet, middle edge rolled a slight bit! How the hell does anyone swear by these!😂
Its a bit of a draw I guess. Just like most Scandi ground knives, they will be more robust with a secondary edge. Once the edge on the Fiskars is adjusted I have found them to be very reliable. I like my standard wood handle axes and have many, I also have most the Fiskars models as well and like them for certain things. For me, especially in the mid size axes not having the head come loose while camping is a bonus. I have had to re-handle and re-wedge several high end axes when using in shoulder seasons, especially when they get soaking wet in the snow. In the end I suppose its nice to have the choice to use what works best for you needs.
Seems sill doesn't it? You buy what is supposed to be a quality tool however, it has to be modified to be good.
بحبك
I dont know what you are talking about dude fiskars come with the secondary bevel brand new and i always spend hours filing it off into a single bevel like you have shown because it is much sharper that way and it bites in much better, you cannot get that secondary bevel sharp because the angle is much to flat. You need the angle of the single bevel to get your blades 'razor' sharp.
Hmm well sorry if the video was not clear enough. I thought I pretty plainly stated what the problem is, how it can cause issues, how to fix it and how it can still be "shaving sharp" if needed. As to not being able to get a secondary bevel "sharp" did you watch the video? I show step by step how to do it and show it being able to shave arm hair when finished. Weird.
@@Scablands_Scavenger It wasn't an issue with me not understanding what you said, what I was saying is every time I buy fiskars tools from home depot whether it's and axe or a brush knife or anything with a blade, it comes with a large double bevel. I don't like that 45 degree angle that you are talking about, I notice that with you you only made a couple passes so you still retained that razor sharpness. I don't even bother. All I was saying is for me every time I buy a new fiskars axe, I have to spend hours turning that damn 45 degree double bevel but down to a much more gradual angle with my files or whetstones, as long as I'm not hitting rocks I never have too many issues. But I am guessing even with your technique if you hit a rock your probably going to have rolls and nicks. I just find it weird you are getting brand new fiskars tools with a nice single bevel just the way i like them, yes it is weird. no matter, it still is a good informational video thank you.
Does the lifetime warranty still work after reprofilling axe?
This is basically sharpening the axe, I cannot see it voiding a warranty. Now if you took a belt sander or grinder to it maybe...
@@Scablands_Scavenger okay thanks!
Not exactly the method I use but I can't fault this at all. My oldest Fiskars hatchet is pre X series by a number of years and I haven't ever had any issues with it either. As far as I am concerned the chipping/rolling is an internet myth perpetuated by willful ignorance. No one I know personally has ever had an issue with a Fiskars axe.
Agreed, my x27 needs a simple touch up after processing well over 250 tons of wood within 12 months ahahaha
I know this is old but I just got an x25 and it chipped right out of the box going through some knotty applewood so....
@@blakelocati dry and cured? If it was I might be hesitant to use any axe on it! Of course splitting should have less of an effect. Fiskars has a lifetime warranty so if you got a bad one they should make it right.
@@turtlewolfpack6061 just splitting. I resharpened the edge at a less aggressive angle and it’s holding up much better now
@@blakelocati it is always good to hear and try to understand equipment failure stories. Thankyou for following up!
Just grind off the whole edge and it will never chip. !!
One further step after what you done beautifully is to blend all those angles together forming a formidable convex edge which is best for axes and heavy duty hatches. 🪓
Agreed, most of mine end up that way naturally from hand sharpening, super tough when hitting knots and the occasional drop or ground strike.