Mazdaspeed3 Transmission/Transaxle Fluid Change

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
  • Here's a link on how to get your Mazda on jack stands properly:
    • Mazdaspeed3 How To Pro...
    In this video I replace the Manual Transaxle fluid on my 2013 Mazdaspeed3. You'll need 2.7 qts of GL-4 75W-80. I also replace the gaskets for the drain and fill plugs on the trans. The part number for these gaskets is A601-17-117. The torque specs for those plugs is 28-51 Nm or 21-37 ft-lbs. I torqued mine to the max. I hope this video was helpful to anyone doing this job. Thank you for watching, Please Like and Subscribe, it helps me out.
    Instagram: polardoom91
    Video shot on Sony ZV-1
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ความคิดเห็น • 11

  • @gloveyourway2000
    @gloveyourway2000 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Good video! The only thing I'd do differently is to remove the fill plug first, then drain the transmission. Last thing you want is to not be able to refill the transmission after you've drained the it!

  • @samiam1400
    @samiam1400 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Kamal, can we get a Q&A? Did you use to work at a repair shop?

    • @kamalakeel
      @kamalakeel  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I did work as a tech for BMW for just over 2 years so not a long time in that field. I obviously still love working on cars because I make these videos doing things to my cars and my family members cars but doing it every day just gets pretty tiring. At the end of every day and week you don’t even feel like fixing your own car hahaha.

    • @lyianx
      @lyianx 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@kamalakeel haha dude. Its the same with everything. I work in IT doing tech support. Im not a fan of working/troubleshooting on my own computers xD

  • @Michail_Zacharioudakis
    @Michail_Zacharioudakis ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Kamal, do you still have the Mazdaspeed? I am servicing my own (MPS european version) and I am struggling on the following: 1. Rear motor mount: It’s time to replace and I am not sure if I should go OEM or try some stiffer aftermarket. The OEM doesn’t last for long and soon enough you are getting this bad shifting but I do care about comfort and low NVH. 2. Dashboard: I’ve made a big scratch and a hole in my dashboard on the passenger side and I am hoping to repair them with some vinyl & leather paste. Do you happen to know the colour code of the trim (Mine is exactly the same with yours). Your feedback would be mostly appreciated.

  • @wesleywalsh9522
    @wesleywalsh9522 ปีที่แล้ว

    What’s the bolt size for the pump? I was looking to buy one and the options are 28mm or 38mm. I would assume 28?

  • @lyianx
    @lyianx 8 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    1:30 "not a bad idea" Not at all. In fact, the manual (page 8-28) specifically tells you to warm it up just to inspect the fluid level.
    1. Park on a level surface and set the
    parking brake firmly.
    2. Make sure there is no ATF leakage
    from the ATF hose or the housing.
    3. Shift the shift lever to the park position
    (P), start the engine and warm it up.
    4. While the engine is still idling, pull out
    the dipstick and wipe it clean, and then
    put it back.
    5. Check the ATF level. If there is no ATF
    adhering 5 mm from the end of the
    dipstick, add ATF.
    (for speed3's, its just TF, but same process applies)

  • @RenzoSpeed3
    @RenzoSpeed3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Supposed to be 75-90 for the 2nd Gen trans

    • @kamalakeel
      @kamalakeel  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The spec is 75W-80 for the second gens but I know people still run 75W-90 as well or the Ford XT-M5-QS. I’ve just read that it’s better for 1st gens which I’m pretty sure the spec on those is 75W-90. Depending on who you talk to or what forum you read people say different things haha. This Redline 75W-80 has been working well for me though. Are you running a 75W-90 on a 2nd gen?

  • @eundaddy
    @eundaddy ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If you move that bucket one more time

    • @kamalakeel
      @kamalakeel  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hahahaha oh dear. I know.