Nice job! I have several Plumb hatchets, two of which have the Boy Scout Stamp on them and the original handles. One has the original mask also. No Victory stamped heads though. I have a 3.5 lb Plumb double bit head that I need to rehang. I have one of their one sided carpenter hatchet heads also. I love the handles on Plumb hatchets! A while back, I found a nice hatchet with an original handle. The end was split and it had about 5 nails in the wedge space. One nail was one of the old square cut ones. I managed to get them all out without doing much additional damage. I cut a 1/4 of an inch off of the top of the handle and cleaned up the kerf and made it slightly deeper, and trimmed the handle down a tad. Then I rehung the head with a slightly wider wedge than normal. I put some wood glue in the crack at the bottom and then placed it in my vice for a couple of days. I've used the hatchet a few times, not a lot, but the repair has held so far. Metal wedges are pretty soft. I have pulled a few by drilling a hole in them, then screwing a screw 3/4 of the way in. Then I used a nail puller to extract the metal wedge. That might not work on a fresh, well hung head. But it sometimes does on heads that are worn and already loose. Especially if the wood around it is damaged from nails and such. I've wondered if one had a nice handle except the top part was mucked up if it could be saved with some kind of filler? Could you fill in the damaged areas with Bondo or JB Weld and then reshape the area before rehanging? It seems like once the head was set and wedged that the compression would keep everything together. I like your wooden mallet. Harbor Freight sells two sizes of rubber mallets. I use the large one to set handles with zero damage to the handle ends. I love a nice sexy fawns foot on an axe handle! Plumb did nice ones. One of these days I'm going to try my handle at reprofiling a modern handle. I stopped using metal wedges on my axes. I like to put a second, cross wedge instead. On a large axe you can do two. I did an old barn find hammer that way. I think it looks great! My next project might be to take a brass pistol case and tap that into the wedge. When you cut it off and dress it up, it produces a nice, very thin brass circle. I even saw one that had concentric circles made with a 9mm inside a 45. I leave my handles proud on top by about 3/8ths of an inch. Once the wedge is in place, the top of the handle which protrudes is larger than the eye of the ax, making the head very secure. I like the look after it's sanded and some BLO is added. Heres a tip for your viewers: Keep an eye out for interesting wood that you can repurpose. I found an old wooden box that was broken. But the wood was very nice. I think the box was some kind of jewelry box, or presentation case. It looks a little like a dark walnut with lots of grain. It's just thick enough that I can cut a square out the size of the wedge I need and then sand it into shape on my belt sander. Thanks again for taking the time to make the video!
Thank you so much for watching and for giving so much feedback. I hope you watch some of my other videos. I do some of what you were talking about. I have removed metal wedges with an automotive slide hammer and used cartridge casings to decorate the eye of the axes. I don’t have much experience rebuilding the eye of the handle. I usually do as you explained, cutting off the bad part, and setting the head lower on the shoulder. I have never tried to use Apoxsee in the eyes of an axe, but I know plum used to do that all the time. I have an original plum handle that has red Apoxsee in it. So I would think you would be able to hang the head as best you can and make it as tight as possible and then pour Apoxsee in the top to finish it off. Would love to know if you have any success with that and I might try it someday. Thanks again for sharing and hope you have a great day.
@@toolscouter Thanks! I'm thinking of rebuilding the ax handle by filling in the missing wood with Bondo or JB. Then shaping it back close to the original shape before I put the head on. I think the compression after I set a traditional wedge will hold the filler in place. It's on my to do list anyway. Maybe after hunting season! BTW, did watch a few of your other vids. Missed the cartridge in the wedge thing though! Also subbed. I've cleaned up some other vintage tools, but my restoration skills are no where close to yours! Best regards!
Thanks so much for checking out the channel and sharing your thoughts. Look forward to hearing from you again in the future. Here is that video where I used the cartridges in the eye: Vintage Hatchet restoration. #Plumb #NSCO #Half Hatchet #laminated handle #axes th-cam.com/video/iuEugo6PdII/w-d-xo.html have a great weekend.
@@yellowdog762jb Bondo has zero strength, JB is rather brittle. Plumb used "Permabond" but I have no idea what it was. If I was going to goop a head on, Id try fiberglass reinforced resin. Tiger Hair might work.
I believe the Victory’ line was produced during and for a short time after WW-2. That Poll on that hatchet is extended a bit. And beveled like a Rafting axe! I wonder if that poll is hardened like a hammer? Nice Work!
You’re right about that. Mine had the red handle and everything. It just was not stamped with the Boy Scout symbol. But they are really nice little axes. Thanks so much for stopping by and sharing and have yourself a great rest of your week.
Really nice work on the hatchet and the video. By chance can you tell me how well it splits kindling? I really enjoy the national pattern shape and want to buy one mostly for kindling splitting for the fireplace... But just wondered how does it would be to the task. There's a few Plumb boy scout hatchet patterns to choose from.
Greetings and thank you so much for stopping by. As to your question, I think it works great. I love the way it looks the way it feels, and the way it works. I hope you find it to your liking and at the very least it’s a great collectible. Thanks again so much for stopping by and leaving a comment/question. Have a great week.
Thank you for the suggestion. Is this close to what you were suggesting or are you wanting more detail? How to Maintain Your Axe th-cam.com/video/SlOuJbaFPZo/w-d-xo.html Thanks for visiting me here in the shop and hope you have a great week.
Nice job on that old Plumb Victory! Love that National pattern. One of my favorites 😃👍🏼
Thank you sir, one of my favorites as well. Have a great day.
Dude your awesome at this 👍 I just learned a couple things thanks 🙏
Thank you so much for your kind words. I hope you’ll come back again soon and often. Have a great week.
Nice job! I have several Plumb hatchets, two of which have the Boy Scout Stamp on them and the original handles. One has the original mask also. No Victory stamped heads though. I have a 3.5 lb Plumb double bit head that I need to rehang. I have one of their one sided carpenter hatchet heads also. I love the handles on Plumb hatchets!
A while back, I found a nice hatchet with an original handle. The end was split and it had about 5 nails in the wedge space. One nail was one of the old square cut ones. I managed to get them all out without doing much additional damage. I cut a 1/4 of an inch off of the top of the handle and cleaned up the kerf and made it slightly deeper, and trimmed the handle down a tad. Then I rehung the head with a slightly wider wedge than normal. I put some wood glue in the crack at the bottom and then placed it in my vice for a couple of days. I've used the hatchet a few times, not a lot, but the repair has held so far.
Metal wedges are pretty soft. I have pulled a few by drilling a hole in them, then screwing a screw 3/4 of the way in. Then I used a nail puller to extract the metal wedge. That might not work on a fresh, well hung head. But it sometimes does on heads that are worn and already loose. Especially if the wood around it is damaged from nails and such.
I've wondered if one had a nice handle except the top part was mucked up if it could be saved with some kind of filler? Could you fill in the damaged areas with Bondo or JB Weld and then reshape the area before rehanging? It seems like once the head was set and wedged that the compression would keep everything together.
I like your wooden mallet. Harbor Freight sells two sizes of rubber mallets. I use the large one to set handles with zero damage to the handle ends.
I love a nice sexy fawns foot on an axe handle! Plumb did nice ones. One of these days I'm going to try my handle at reprofiling a modern handle.
I stopped using metal wedges on my axes. I like to put a second, cross wedge instead. On a large axe you can do two. I did an old barn find hammer that way. I think it looks great! My next project might be to take a brass pistol case and tap that into the wedge. When you cut it off and dress it up, it produces a nice, very thin brass circle. I even saw one that had concentric circles made with a 9mm inside a 45. I leave my handles proud on top by about 3/8ths of an inch. Once the wedge is in place, the top of the handle which protrudes is larger than the eye of the ax, making the head very secure. I like the look after it's sanded and some BLO is added.
Heres a tip for your viewers:
Keep an eye out for interesting wood that you can repurpose. I found an old wooden box that was broken. But the wood was very nice. I think the box was some kind of jewelry box, or presentation case. It looks a little like a dark walnut with lots of grain. It's just thick enough that I can cut a square out the size of the wedge I need and then sand it into shape on my belt sander.
Thanks again for taking the time to make the video!
Thank you so much for watching and for giving so much feedback. I hope you watch some of my other videos. I do some of what you were talking about. I have removed metal wedges with an automotive slide hammer and used cartridge casings to decorate the eye of the axes. I don’t have much experience rebuilding the eye of the handle. I usually do as you explained, cutting off the bad part, and setting the head lower on the shoulder. I have never tried to use Apoxsee in the eyes of an axe, but I know plum used to do that all the time. I have an original plum handle that has red Apoxsee in it. So I would think you would be able to hang the head as best you can and make it as tight as possible and then pour Apoxsee in the top to finish it off. Would love to know if you have any success with that and I might try it someday. Thanks again for sharing and hope you have a great day.
@@toolscouter Thanks! I'm thinking of rebuilding the ax handle by filling in the missing wood with Bondo or JB. Then shaping it back close to the original shape before I put the head on. I think the compression after I set a traditional wedge will hold the filler in place. It's on my to do list anyway. Maybe after hunting season!
BTW, did watch a few of your other vids. Missed the cartridge in the wedge thing though! Also subbed. I've cleaned up some other vintage tools, but my restoration skills are no where close to yours!
Best regards!
Thanks so much for checking out the channel and sharing your thoughts. Look forward to hearing from you again in the future. Here is that video where I used the cartridges in the eye: Vintage Hatchet restoration. #Plumb #NSCO #Half Hatchet #laminated handle #axes
th-cam.com/video/iuEugo6PdII/w-d-xo.html have a great weekend.
@@yellowdog762jb Bondo has zero strength, JB is rather brittle. Plumb used "Permabond" but I have no idea what it was. If I was going to goop a head on, Id try fiberglass reinforced resin. Tiger Hair might work.
@@paulhare662 Thanks for the tip!
Simple and awesome returning it to its former glory.
You bet! Thanks for your comment.
I believe the Victory’ line was produced during and for a short time after WW-2. That Poll on that hatchet is extended a bit. And beveled like a Rafting axe! I wonder if that poll is hardened like a hammer? Nice Work!
I think you’re right and yes I think the pole is hardened on these. Thanks so much for stopping by and I hope you have a great week.
Looks exactly like my BSA axe. It dates from 1951-1955. National Pattern, red handle.
You’re right about that. Mine had the red handle and everything. It just was not stamped with the Boy Scout symbol. But they are really nice little axes. Thanks so much for stopping by and sharing and have yourself a great rest of your week.
Really nice work on the hatchet and the video. By chance can you tell me how well it splits kindling? I really enjoy the national pattern shape and want to buy one mostly for kindling splitting for the fireplace... But just wondered how does it would be to the task. There's a few Plumb boy scout hatchet patterns to choose from.
Greetings and thank you so much for stopping by. As to your question, I think it works great. I love the way it looks the way it feels, and the way it works. I hope you find it to your liking and at the very least it’s a great collectible. Thanks again so much for stopping by and leaving a comment/question. Have a great week.
On the scale it measured 1 Lb. and 9.7 oz. or just over 1.5 Lb, yes? (16 Oz per Lb.) very nice hand axe!
Yes. Did I read it wrong? It wouldn’t be the first time. Keep me honest. Thanks for watching and happy new year.
G'day mate great job
Thank you, have blessed day!
Hey a good video would be file maintenance.cleaning , oiling and what not .
Thank you for the suggestion. Is this close to what you were suggesting or are you wanting more detail? How to Maintain Your Axe th-cam.com/video/SlOuJbaFPZo/w-d-xo.html Thanks for visiting me here in the shop and hope you have a great week.
You forgot to show off how the top looks with its pair of wedges
Oops. Sorry, I’ll try to next time.
I’d fill the cracks with glue with a hypodermic needle
Good idea. Thanks for coming by the shop. Have a great week.