What a relief that you use your magical slab wizard powers for the greater good (imagine an evil slab wizard!). Also SO glad your nails matched your shirt this time :P
The "reverse crimp" makes me think of a "mini gaston" or a "finger gaston"... I might just call it that too 🤔😏 learned something new today. Thanks Anna! 🤗
Was at the gym from 10-8, did my first v8, met Jesse Grupper climbing there randomly, just got my customary after sesh Taco Bell, and Anna posts a great video for me to watch while eating? Is this the best day ever or what? A Boxing Day miracle ….
Loved this! Whenever you share all your slab details, I feel so seen! Slab has always been the most instinctive climbing style for me, and it's validating to see random stuff I've done given your official stamp of approval 😃
@@AnnaHazelnutt I also wanted to share that I've worked with multiple climbing trainers, who've taught me amazing things. Two of them are setters whose vert problems were the first V5s and V6s I projected successfully (still haven't ever sent a V6, but made a lot of progress!). Despite all this, the majority of the standard climbing technique teaching I received seems to have been dude/bro-upper body-dynamic-overhang-pinches/slopers-focused. I'd love to be proven wrong, but it's seemed to me that a lot of lower body, static/delicate, vert/slab, crimpy formal techniques are absent from standard climbing teaching.
I totally agree! It's not that it doesn't exist, but there's definitely a glaring hole in training/ general climbing discourse when it comes to slab and balance technique. Until more recently (and I like to think I'm a small part of this!) slab climbing has been thought of as "less than." Slabs have also traditionally been sandbagged to hell because the strength element is so enigmatic and (in my opinion) a lot of the negative mentality/ sandbag culture around technical climbing can be traced back to sexist undertones. Hopefully I can continue filling this gap a bit! There are legends (from yosemite, cochemo, pedriza, austria, s. africa, etc.) who have embarked on trying to popularize slab well before me, and I'm just tryna push it a bit further ("standing on the shoulders of giants") :)
Interesting and fun to see such a detailed technical analysis of the climb. It is always so fun to find a new trick to solve or improve ways to do a climb. The movie about the walk of life was great too!
Anna I love you so much!!! You are so real and natural and confident and down to earth. You're so inspiring and I hope I get to meet you one day. I also have stubby thumbs 😂 and have always felt insecure about them lol! Until now bc of you. You're the best. Much love ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
This was amazing!! My gym has a slab wall (my favorite area) and I've used pressing a lot but had no idea it was an actual technique if that makes sense. Yes to Quarryman breakdown!! 🙌
Yo Awnster, my best life mos’ def’ can be lived with also subscribing to you! Great breakdown of such a classic climb. I would definitely like to see more of these!
Great slab tips and ways to use your thumbs! I gotta try the heel rest more often because being on slab for long periods of time is so painful on the toes
I tend to palm down a lot getting over ledges or getting higher feet even in non slab climbing. I'm on the tall side and don't have a ton of hip flexibility so if my high hand is on a reasonable hold i'll use my lower palm to push my hips away from the wall and give my feet more range :) also the reverse crimp is new to me and I love it!
I can relate to multiple slab techniques you shared! So happy to see this video. My boyfriend is crazy into slab climbing and I’m getting into this style too 😊 Would LOVE to see a breakdown of quarryman. Loved your effort on that in BritRock!
I have a move I call the "L-Bracket" where I form a "bracket" with my forearm while crimping by dropping the elbow against the rock (whole forearm smeared against the wall) and keep it locked in place as I move up or outward. Kind of like turning your forearm into a big skyhook, locking in the crimp and keeping it from getting weaker as your center moves past it.
Oooh! Be careful with it as a full crimp is one of the more injury inducing grips (especially if you haven't used em before!) but have fun testing it out when you're warmed up and maybe on less steep angles to begin with!
Happy New year Anna. I am not a climber, but got into the climbing video from seeing the UK climbers. Louis, Hanna and the Wide boys ( and many others ). Great to have seen you over the last year or two through those other channels and your own. I would have loved to have tried some climbing when I was younger ( a bit late now ), it always looks fun and challenging -- no climbing gym's when I was at the age. Stay safe and keep enjoying the challenge.
Saw Brit Rock both first & second round! Keep up the good work (and random insanity)! Another couple uses for the palming technique: climbing up dikes (EG basalt band in a granite cliff) with not-quite mantel moves, and awkward hand-foot matches (seen you do that on video). Also I tend to subdivide smearing into "pure smearing" (smooth wall) and "divot smearing" (literally smearing a divot instead of trying to use my toes).
Thinking on the reverse crimp, it almost reminds me of a ring locks cousin. Love that technique though, imma start calling it a thumb war bc it reminds me of thumb wrestling.
I thought I was the only one using the palming technique 😂😂 i guess it’s mainstream now that you made a video about it. Thanks for sharing your story through your videos and for caring about everyone that watches them
Super cool to hear you analyze these techniques which go under-reported (and seem seldom understood) by The Steep Boys. Palms-down is an essential stemming corner technique; I've found the heel rest to be KILLER on steep, flat ice, and do specific turn-out stretches for it before ANY climb. The thumb-opposing-a-crimp thing makes a tips crack in a corner something to look forward to! And smears become an option to choose over edgeing whenever you can manage a hips-out position, either because the hands allow you to pull outward a bit or because the angle is truly less than vertical. Oh, and YES PLEASE on the Quarryman vid, I can't wait to hear your "take" on it! 😊
woaaaah! I love how this applies to ice climbing. I've only ice climbed once... indoors (of all things!) and so I wouldn't have been able to draw those connections. Thanks for sharing!
Yes, please do a similiar breakdown for other climbs! If you want to have some fun with it, the music reminded me a bit of a Vogue - whats in my bag video that I once saw. Might be a fun parody :)
ahhaha omg this is amazing 😂 "What's in my project?" I dig it let me see what I can come up with for Quarryman (seems like enough people seem to like this style vid!)
This is a really cool video. I've been a little frustrated with my footwork on outdoor sport climbs, especially on small edges, so it's nice to hear your tips! Any tips on those really small edges? I have a hard time weighting them without popping off. The result has been pulling more on my fingers, than weighting my toes. It hasn't gone well.
I like a slightly downturned shoe, but not too much! Flatter shoes work best but depending on the slab, sometimes a slight downturn helps the shoe fit a bit more snuggly on my foot (I have high arches) and let’s me push down on small edges
ALL! I umbrella’d finger stacks into the full crimp, but maybe I can go more in depth about various crimp positions for a later video as well. I use alllll the techniques
Wonderful video, so helpful, thanks! I saw your reverse crimp on Instagram (?) and it's a great, unexpected technique I'd never seen before. Yes please to more of these analytical technique videos!
I have a random question for you! do you think your fingers have changed visually with climbing? I've just started noticing my hands looking a bit more hench and I'm excited to have can-crushing, jar-opening, She-Ra hands. On a side note, I palm alllllll the time! on pretty much any style other, this is also super popular with my fellow shortie climbers (we are 5ft1 and 5ft2). This was an epic video, thanks so much for all the tips!
Shower thought of the day: The reverse crimp is actually a negative pinch, like if you have a 5 cm pinch or a wide 12 cm pinch, the reverse crimp is a -2cm pinch, where your thumb is generating opossition force to the rest of the fingers, but the space between the thumb and the other fingers is inverted thus negative. 😵💫
What a relief that you use your magical slab wizard powers for the greater good (imagine an evil slab wizard!). Also SO glad your nails matched your shirt this time :P
If she was a route setter that would make her an evil slab wizard
Uh oh... this is GREAT foreshadowing for my next video hehehe (I set Hangar 18 Oranges hardest slab...)
😂 Honestly lots of the power comes thru the perfectly matched cute nails tho 💅🏽
Lost forever to the dark side.
Would love a quarryman breakdown!! And thumbdercling is an amazing name!
hahaha YES! And for the brits, I believe thumbdercut is another word for it haha
ditto! these breakdown videos are GREAT!
Yeah totally loved this breakdown of techniques Anna, you should definatley do more of these types of videos x
The "reverse crimp" makes me think of a "mini gaston" or a "finger gaston"... I might just call it that too 🤔😏 learned something new today. Thanks Anna! 🤗
Was at the gym from 10-8, did my first v8, met Jesse Grupper climbing there randomly, just got my customary after sesh Taco Bell, and Anna posts a great video for me to watch while eating? Is this the best day ever or what? A Boxing Day miracle ….
hahaha omg sounds like an ace day!
Loved this! Whenever you share all your slab details, I feel so seen! Slab has always been the most instinctive climbing style for me, and it's validating to see random stuff I've done given your official stamp of approval 😃
OMG this makes me so happy haha! All these moves are so rewarding when they work on slabs (or vert)!!
@@AnnaHazelnutt I also wanted to share that I've worked with multiple climbing trainers, who've taught me amazing things. Two of them are setters whose vert problems were the first V5s and V6s I projected successfully (still haven't ever sent a V6, but made a lot of progress!). Despite all this, the majority of the standard climbing technique teaching I received seems to have been dude/bro-upper body-dynamic-overhang-pinches/slopers-focused. I'd love to be proven wrong, but it's seemed to me that a lot of lower body, static/delicate, vert/slab, crimpy formal techniques are absent from standard climbing teaching.
I totally agree! It's not that it doesn't exist, but there's definitely a glaring hole in training/ general climbing discourse when it comes to slab and balance technique. Until more recently (and I like to think I'm a small part of this!) slab climbing has been thought of as "less than." Slabs have also traditionally been sandbagged to hell because the strength element is so enigmatic and (in my opinion) a lot of the negative mentality/ sandbag culture around technical climbing can be traced back to sexist undertones. Hopefully I can continue filling this gap a bit! There are legends (from yosemite, cochemo, pedriza, austria, s. africa, etc.) who have embarked on trying to popularize slab well before me, and I'm just tryna push it a bit further ("standing on the shoulders of giants") :)
It was really helpful and yes it is the first time that i realised your thumb , it is shocking how much you can do with it❤
Really enjoy this type of video! Would definitely love to see more in this same style.
More please! Loved seeing you break down moves for a hard climb
Interesting and fun to see such a detailed technical analysis of the climb. It is always so fun to find a new trick to solve or improve ways to do a climb. The movie about the walk of life was great too!
Thank you!!
thumb up for thumb cling! I will try it tomorrow on my next slab! Thanks for that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anna I love you so much!!! You are so real and natural and confident and down to earth. You're so inspiring and I hope I get to meet you one day. I also have stubby thumbs 😂 and have always felt insecure about them lol! Until now bc of you. You're the best. Much love ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Yesss palming! Helps a ton with stability between foot moves as well!
Yes!! So solid when they work!
When I switch from climbing overhangs to vertical/slab I have to consciously remind myself to start pushing my way up.
Great, I appreciate the slabnalysis. Thanks!
slabs are for the brave !!! thx for sheering great techniques...hope to try team soon
Great to see some more advanced techniques discussed
Super educational! Thanks Anna! 🔥
Thanks for the breakdown! Unrelated but I also have a moose plushy ^^
Everyone always tells me how much they hate slab climbing, but it is literally my favorite type of climbing. I enjoy its precision.
Thabks Anna. Best video on slab I've seen so far.
This was amazing!! My gym has a slab wall (my favorite area) and I've used pressing a lot but had no idea it was an actual technique if that makes sense. Yes to Quarryman breakdown!! 🙌
It’s totally a legit technique! Love that you love the sexy slab wall haha
🗽 Secret tips from the slab queen... I appreciate 🤌🧗♀
.
Ooh! North Devon. My family is from Ilfracombe. I love that area 😀
Yes to break downs.
Merry Christmas.
Happy New year.
Yo Awnster, my best life mos’ def’ can be lived with also subscribing to you! Great breakdown of such a classic climb. I would definitely like to see more of these!
Thanks Anna, noted these tips and will apply them in the next session!
Awesome! Thanks a lot Anna! 😊
The best kind of Christmas breakdown 😂 yeee Quarry man would be cool 👌🏻
Really enjoyed this video, thanks Anna! A quarryman review would also be awesome
Thanks a lot Anna, for this great video. Amusing and really, really interesting!!! 🙌🙌🙌
Great slab tips and ways to use your thumbs! I gotta try the heel rest more often because being on slab for long periods of time is so painful on the toes
Yes! The heel rest is a life saver, especially on multipitches with lotsa slab or where feet just get tired from being stood on haha
This was great. I appreciate all the tips because I’m not a strong slab climber.
Great instructional video and you hair color is on point!
I tend to palm down a lot getting over ledges or getting higher feet even in non slab climbing. I'm on the tall side and don't have a ton of hip flexibility so if my high hand is on a reasonable hold i'll use my lower palm to push my hips away from the wall and give my feet more range :) also the reverse crimp is new to me and I love it!
Great walk through and cute little thumbs! 👍🏼☺️
pls make more of this, this was awesome!
Just watched and loved it-as I do of all your work! It’s always fun and this was packed with excellent pointers! #slabissexy
loved it. more breakdowns pleeeeez!
Great effort! Well done!!
I can relate to multiple slab techniques you shared! So happy to see this video. My boyfriend is crazy into slab climbing and I’m getting into this style too 😊
Would LOVE to see a breakdown of quarryman. Loved your effort on that in BritRock!
Oh hells yes!!! Stoke is high :)
I have a move I call the "L-Bracket" where I form a "bracket" with my forearm while crimping by dropping the elbow against the rock (whole forearm smeared against the wall) and keep it locked in place as I move up or outward. Kind of like turning your forearm into a big skyhook, locking in the crimp and keeping it from getting weaker as your center moves past it.
Oh yeah! Like a forearm press to help with stability? Good stuff!!!
Anna, full crimping is so new to me!
Oooh! Be careful with it as a full crimp is one of the more injury inducing grips (especially if you haven't used em before!) but have fun testing it out when you're warmed up and maybe on less steep angles to begin with!
Oh yes this was great! I learned a thing or two…
Happy New year Anna. I am not a climber, but got into the climbing video from seeing the UK climbers. Louis, Hanna and the Wide boys ( and many others ). Great to have seen you over the last year or two through those other channels and your own.
I would have loved to have tried some climbing when I was younger ( a bit late now ), it always looks fun and challenging -- no climbing gym's when I was at the age.
Stay safe and keep enjoying the challenge.
Oh I’m so glad you like all of these climbing channels! Thank you for writing this :) happy holidays!
Like this kind of breakdown 😁👍
Loved the breakdown!!
would be cool to have a video about the best shoes for slab climbing!
Liked & subbed. Bcos the music ;) Aaaand the talk as well! :D
Very insightful 🔥 awesome climbing 👊🏽 Please do another break down 🙏🏽
Saw Brit Rock both first & second round! Keep up the good work (and random insanity)!
Another couple uses for the palming technique: climbing up dikes (EG basalt band in a granite cliff) with not-quite mantel moves, and awkward hand-foot matches (seen you do that on video).
Also I tend to subdivide smearing into "pure smearing" (smooth wall) and "divot smearing" (literally smearing a divot instead of trying to use my toes).
Oh hell yes! Love all these examples for palm moves :) And the differentiation for smearing!
Thank you! (and yes I've heard the song!)
Good video! Quarrymen breakdown please!
Muy buen video! Hay que disfrutar el dolor para escalar slab - que bello que es!
Jajajaja siii pero la verdad es q hay q disfrutar el dolor para escalar. Todo 😂🤌🏽
Thinking on the reverse crimp, it almost reminds me of a ring locks cousin. Love that technique though, imma start calling it a thumb war bc it reminds me of thumb wrestling.
Amazing! Still on v3-v4s but it’s a dream to lead climb outdoors
I thought I was the only one using the palming technique 😂😂 i guess it’s mainstream now that you made a video about it. Thanks for sharing your story through your videos and for caring about everyone that watches them
😂 omg idk if my vids are mainstream but I love it! Thank you for saying that :)
Would love a quarryman breakdown ❤
great video and congrats on the ffa! are you posting the full send vid to youtube? your once upon a time video is one of my favorite climbing docos!
Thank you!! At least for the time being, the movie is the only way to see the whole send!
Super cool to hear you analyze these techniques which go under-reported (and seem seldom understood) by The Steep Boys. Palms-down is an essential stemming corner technique; I've found the heel rest to be KILLER on steep, flat ice, and do specific turn-out stretches for it before ANY climb. The thumb-opposing-a-crimp thing makes a tips crack in a corner something to look forward to! And smears become an option to choose over edgeing whenever you can manage a hips-out position, either because the hands allow you to pull outward a bit or because the angle is truly less than vertical. Oh, and YES PLEASE on the Quarryman vid, I can't wait to hear your "take" on it! 😊
woaaaah! I love how this applies to ice climbing. I've only ice climbed once... indoors (of all things!) and so I wouldn't have been able to draw those connections. Thanks for sharing!
Please more breakdowns 👍
If you love slabs, you should check out El Peñol in Antioquia, Colombia. It's a huge slab climbing paradise 😁
Yes, please do a similiar breakdown for other climbs! If you want to have some fun with it, the music reminded me a bit of a Vogue - whats in my bag video that I once saw. Might be a fun parody :)
ahhaha omg this is amazing 😂 "What's in my project?" I dig it let me see what I can come up with for Quarryman (seems like enough people seem to like this style vid!)
@@AnnaHazelnutt Yup.
For the al gorithem really.
This is a really cool video. I've been a little frustrated with my footwork on outdoor sport climbs, especially on small edges, so it's nice to hear your tips!
Any tips on those really small edges? I have a hard time weighting them without popping off. The result has been pulling more on my fingers, than weighting my toes. It hasn't gone well.
Lots of practice getting comfortable standing on them!! Also a stiffer shoe could help with small edges
Very useful video, thanks for your tips!
Also, it looks like you have Brachydactyly type D (the stubby thumbs). I have them, too.
Ahaha that’s what it’s called? Amazing 😂 thank you!
What kind of shoe do you prefer for slabs? The pointing down ones or a more flat kind of shoe?
I like a slightly downturned shoe, but not too much! Flatter shoes work best but depending on the slab, sometimes a slight downturn helps the shoe fit a bit more snuggly on my foot (I have high arches) and let’s me push down on small edges
Type of rock also factors in: shoes one likes for granite slab might be intolerable on sandstone or schist.
Reverse crimp aka a thumb sprag.
What a boss
Half of the techniques could be summarized in: be creative with your thumbs 🤣
Loved the video! Thanks!
😂 thumb lyfe
I gave this a thumbs up!
Sweet vid Anna! What about thumbwraps or three finger stacked halfcimp, full crimp? Do you use them too? :)
ALL! I umbrella’d finger stacks into the full crimp, but maybe I can go more in depth about various crimp positions for a later video as well. I use alllll the techniques
@@AnnaHazelnutt we call them guitar D or pyramid in Czech republic :)
Lots of palming on gritstone corners too
Yes true!! And with slate corners haha
Yes more beta plz ty
Wonderful video, so helpful, thanks! I saw your reverse crimp on Instagram (?) and it's a great, unexpected technique I'd never seen before. Yes please to more of these analytical technique videos!
I have a random question for you! do you think your fingers have changed visually with climbing? I've just started noticing my hands looking a bit more hench and I'm excited to have can-crushing, jar-opening, She-Ra hands. On a side note, I palm alllllll the time! on pretty much any style other, this is also super popular with my fellow shortie climbers (we are 5ft1 and 5ft2). This was an epic video, thanks so much for all the tips!
I have big puffy hands now, or at least compared to how delicate and slender they used to be! Old rings no longer fit, but I've accepted my fate hahaa
Shower thought of the day: The reverse crimp is actually a negative pinch, like if you have a 5 cm pinch or a wide 12 cm pinch, the reverse crimp is a -2cm pinch, where your thumb is generating opossition force to the rest of the fingers, but the space between the thumb and the other fingers is inverted thus negative.
😵💫
🤯
Also… Have you heard the Dire Straits song by that name?
Quarryman please :D:D
Palming! I've always called this a "sweet hand move." But yeah palming is probably better!
😂 it's always a feel good move. So satisfyingly effficient
@@AnnaHazelnutt Stemming is all about the palm game.
brachdactyle!
Me, watching this whole video, knowing damn well I'm never gunna attempt hard slab haha
😂 you never know!!!
dare you to upgrade it back to E12!
😂😂 it’s… definitely hard! Probably not e12 😜 but I’ve openly said I believe it’s around 13d R/X so one can interpret an e grade from that 👀
Mooore
BUT THAT'S NOT SPORT CLIMBING!
Dude, love this. Watch all your vids and hoped you would do something like this. Amazing info! So generous and thoughtful! Thanks
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it :)