FYI for those that watch this, I have learned quite a bit more info on these pumps since actually performing these mods on my Deere 5020. Be looking for a (shorter) part 2 on this video subject!
Man I’m happy for this video! I’m a DIY Guy As well. Got a 4840 that I want to mod a little and it’s hard to find info. There’s a little I found on forums but not much, maybe I didn’t word it right like you said. So happy for this video. Keep them coming . Thanks a bunch. Subcribed!
Thanks! A few things I have learned since this video that I will go over in my next 5020 Deere vid....do not turn the fuel stop in too far or it can go into the start retard portion of the barrels (google Bosch start retard barrels) if your pump is equipped with start retard barrels. I also turned my governor screw in 8 turns on my P pump and that yielded somewhere between 2800-3000 rpm for me. My pump also accepted P7100 delivery valves that had a tapered body. There are numerous styles but the 191 sets advertised on Amazon worked. Good luck!
How do you take the lope out of one of those pumps? My uncle has a Case 1570 that lopes at idle. I like the lope at idle but not the lope when under minor load at 700 RPM up. It’ll start loping at any RPM under minimal load. If you get more load on it, it’ll smooth out and smoke some.
I really appreciate this video. Thank you! I’m gonna try and give me Deutz F5L912 engine in my log Skidder a little but for more fuel but I’m also trying to clear up some of the raw fuel at idle. Any idea what I’d adjust to clear up some of that white/blue raw fuel at idle? I’m thinking maybe a timing adjustment but not sure. The pump appears to have an adjustable mount to the engine so maybe need to clock it a bit?
Hi , does turning that diaphram at the back of the pump not adjust boost fueling ? On the bosch VE if you turn that diaphram it changes the amount of extra fuel given to the amount of boost available , wondering if these are the same as they are same manufacturer ! its same with the starr wheel or brake drum type adjuster . Good video !
Thanks for the info on that RSV. I have a V8 Mack in my lobsterboat, we do some racin around here in the summer. I'm using a RQV on the pump I have on it now. I'm maxxed out with that pump because it rolls at idle with a load and must have restrictor delivery valve nuts to stop that, with the RQV. I think that can be adjusted out with the RSV I hope, I'm gonna try it now I know a little more about what them adjustments are! Just started learning the engine this past year. Engine and boat are on my page.
Sir I have the case 4000 sugarcane harvester fitted with cummins 5.9l 24 valve with VE pump and now the company has fitted the bosch inline industrial pump with the injecter nozzle and the pipes all brand new very similar to the pump you showed. There is 1 issue, machine is normal at idle speed but as soon as you on the blower and the base cutter the machine starts rough idling before this was not the issue everything was normal at idle speed so what has to be adjusted on the pump.
Not on most pumps. Most inline pumps have an oil feed line that lubes the pump and then it drains out through the bearing retainer plate in front. There are a select few older inlines that are self contained. A lot of pulling pumps are modded to be self contained.
I have a 2004 Lull 1044C-54 telehandler with a Cummins B3.9T with what looks like the same style pump but with 4 cylinders. Model #PES4A95D120RS2880. Wanting to increase fuel flow just a bit from mid-range to top end. First things first though. Add a tachometer and fuel pressure gauges. Need to find a manual.
It is hard to get a good amount of fuel with a small rotary pump without lots of work and money. I do plan on taking the old Standyne CAV style pump off of my old 5020 motor and doing a video on it one day.
I have a few vids of me pulling on my channel. I figured out that the pump I have has retard barrels and plungers which are no good for pulling. I have it turned to somewhere around 3k rpm via 8 clicks on the screw. I built and added a 55psi supply pump system to feed the big pump but the big pump just isn't big enough. A 13mm or 14mm is in my future. Tractor makes 43psi of boost and pulls hard but it needs for fuel to help cool the cylinders.
@@TheBeardedGearhead I also seen u had a video about a 2955 hard starting issue. My 2940 was the same way and last year about this time it blew a head gasket and overheated. So I tore it down and done a overhaul and put a high compression kit in it and now it will start in under 2 seconds after sitting 4 months and on a 15 degree day. U just can’t use ether and it runs a little warmer even with new water pump, radiator and thermostats.
@@xade7863 I am guessing that you are looking at using a manifold and turbo off of a 3055? Should be same engine. I will have to look at my 2955 pump next time I use it and do some research on it too.
@@TheBeardedGearhead I was actually planning on using the manifold off of a 4040s since it’s same motor and someone had already cut out a hole that will work with the 4040s muffler. Mines also got cab and a/c and all the 3055 style mufflers won’t fit
Any idea what to adjust on my Deutz F5L912 engine to clear the haze at idle? I don’t get much black smoke under full load but lots of raw smelling fuel at idle. The pump is a Bosch PES5A and it’s got the Bosch RSV governor.
@@TheBeardedGearhead sorry, I didn’t leave enough info. Yes, I replace the injector first thinking they were worn/dribbling. Thank you for your fast reply. If you can think of anything else that’d help me I’d love to hear it.
@jdatwood7086 next step would be to verify that the injection pump timing hasn't slipped. That can cause smoke at idle. How isbthe cylinder compression and does it have good water free fuel in it? Lots of things can contribute to white smoke. Timing and injectors are usually the main culprits.
On this pump, the screw has to go in. If you tear the governor apart and operate the linkage, you will see that the arm moves towards the front of the pump under load. The further forward this moves, the more fuel is applied. The fuel stop has to be screwed in to allow this to happen.
FYI for those that watch this, I have learned quite a bit more info on these pumps since actually performing these mods on my Deere 5020. Be looking for a (shorter) part 2 on this video subject!
any update on a part 2?
Is part 2 already in the making?
thank you for this video, at the weekend I will adjust the aneroid for the new turbo in my tractor renault 175.74 with mwm engine
Glad I could help
Man I’m happy for this video! I’m a DIY Guy As well. Got a 4840 that I want to mod a little and it’s hard to find info. There’s a little I found on forums but not much, maybe I didn’t word it right like you said. So happy for this video. Keep them coming . Thanks a bunch. Subcribed!
Thanks! A few things I have learned since this video that I will go over in my next 5020 Deere vid....do not turn the fuel stop in too far or it can go into the start retard portion of the barrels (google Bosch start retard barrels) if your pump is equipped with start retard barrels. I also turned my governor screw in 8 turns on my P pump and that yielded somewhere between 2800-3000 rpm for me. My pump also accepted P7100 delivery valves that had a tapered body. There are numerous styles but the 191 sets advertised on Amazon worked. Good luck!
@@TheBeardedGearheadhello, i have a 7810 with 250hp, how many Turns i turn on the governor??
How do you take the lope out of one of those pumps? My uncle has a Case 1570 that lopes at idle. I like the lope at idle but not the lope when under minor load at 700 RPM up. It’ll start loping at any RPM under minimal load. If you get more load on it, it’ll smooth out and smoke some.
I really appreciate this video. Thank you! I’m gonna try and give me Deutz F5L912 engine in my log Skidder a little but for more fuel but I’m also trying to clear up some of the raw fuel at idle. Any idea what I’d adjust to clear up some of that white/blue raw fuel at idle? I’m thinking maybe a timing adjustment but not sure. The pump appears to have an adjustable mount to the engine so maybe need to clock it a bit?
Hi , does turning that diaphram at the back of the pump not adjust boost fueling ? On the bosch VE if you turn that diaphram it changes the amount of extra fuel given to the amount of boost available , wondering if these are the same as they are same manufacturer ! its same with the starr wheel or brake drum type adjuster .
Good video !
Thanks for the info on that RSV. I have a V8 Mack in my lobsterboat, we do some racin around here in the summer. I'm using a RQV on the pump I have on it now. I'm maxxed out with that pump because it rolls at idle with a load and must have restrictor delivery valve nuts to stop that, with the RQV. I think that can be adjusted out with the RSV I hope, I'm gonna try it now I know a little more about what them adjustments are! Just started learning the engine this past year. Engine and boat are on my page.
Good deal! I am going to try and do another pump vid soon and build a set of injectors. Learned much more since the first vid!
Did this on deutz
It was about 5- 6 visible treads adjusted 4 turns and go a "new" traktor
I am actually trying to find an 80 06 or similar Deutz to build a puller out of. I have already located a bigger engine for it.
Was it a Bosch 'A' pump? I'm having a heck of a time finding information on pump adjustments.
I’m trying to figure out how to “turn my delivery valve holders” “clocking the barrels”, would you know how? Thanks
If you are talking about adjusting the port windows on the barrels, then no. That is something that I would not do without a bench.
Sir I have the case 4000 sugarcane harvester fitted with cummins 5.9l 24 valve with VE pump and now the company has fitted the bosch inline industrial pump with the injecter nozzle and the pipes all brand new very similar to the pump you showed. There is 1 issue, machine is normal at idle speed but as soon as you on the blower and the base cutter the machine starts rough idling before this was not the issue everything was normal at idle speed so what has to be adjusted on the pump.
What you are describing actually sounds like more of a low timing issue or a low supply pump pressure issue. I would start there first
Were you able to decipher what the torque capsule was and if it helped go to full fuel sooner ? Or how to tell if a pump has one or not
Colin, I never made it that far. Every pump that I have is a start retard type pump and full rack travel is not an option for me until I change pumps.
If you take the cap off to adjust the fuel screw do you need to add oil back to the pump or will it get that from the oil line?
Not on most pumps. Most inline pumps have an oil feed line that lubes the pump and then it drains out through the bearing retainer plate in front. There are a select few older inlines that are self contained. A lot of pulling pumps are modded to be self contained.
I have a 2004 Lull 1044C-54 telehandler with a Cummins B3.9T with what looks like the same style pump but with 4 cylinders. Model #PES4A95D120RS2880. Wanting to increase fuel flow just a bit from mid-range to top end. First things first though. Add a tachometer and fuel pressure gauges. Need to find a manual.
I want to know how to turn the fuel up on my John Deere 4230 it's got about 100 horsepower
It is hard to get a good amount of fuel with a small rotary pump without lots of work and money. I do plan on taking the old Standyne CAV style pump off of my old 5020 motor and doing a video on it one day.
How did it end up ?
I should start with mine soon
I have a few vids of me pulling on my channel. I figured out that the pump I have has retard barrels and plungers which are no good for pulling. I have it turned to somewhere around 3k rpm via 8 clicks on the screw. I built and added a 55psi supply pump system to feed the big pump but the big pump just isn't big enough. A 13mm or 14mm is in my future. Tractor makes 43psi of boost and pulls hard but it needs for fuel to help cool the cylinders.
Do u have a video turning up a Lucas cav style pump like the smaller John Deere’s like a 2950 or 2750 used?
Sorry but I do not. I have only dealt with the big pumps.
@@TheBeardedGearhead ok I’ve been tempted to turn my 2940 up and put a turbo on it but want to make sure I don’t mess up the pump somehow
@@TheBeardedGearhead I also seen u had a video about a 2955 hard starting issue. My 2940 was the same way and last year about this time it blew a head gasket and overheated. So I tore it down and done a overhaul and put a high compression kit in it and now it will start in under 2 seconds after sitting 4 months and on a 15 degree day. U just can’t use ether and it runs a little warmer even with new water pump, radiator and thermostats.
@@xade7863 I am guessing that you are looking at using a manifold and turbo off of a 3055? Should be same engine. I will have to look at my 2955 pump next time I use it and do some research on it too.
@@TheBeardedGearhead I was actually planning on using the manifold off of a 4040s since it’s same motor and someone had already cut out a hole that will work with the 4040s muffler. Mines also got cab and a/c and all the 3055 style mufflers won’t fit
Hey i am a diesel pump technician i work on those pumps if you have questions i can help I really liked your video
Thanks! I will keep that in mind!
Any idea what to adjust on my Deutz F5L912 engine to clear the haze at idle? I don’t get much black smoke under full load but lots of raw smelling fuel at idle. The pump is a Bosch PES5A and it’s got the Bosch RSV governor.
@jdatwood7086 I would be looking more toward getting your injectors freshened up. A lot of times that is where the haze stems from.
@@TheBeardedGearhead sorry, I didn’t leave enough info. Yes, I replace the injector first thinking they were worn/dribbling. Thank you for your fast reply. If you can think of anything else that’d help me I’d love to hear it.
@jdatwood7086 next step would be to verify that the injection pump timing hasn't slipped. That can cause smoke at idle. How isbthe cylinder compression and does it have good water free fuel in it? Lots of things can contribute to white smoke. Timing and injectors are usually the main culprits.
I think you said that wrong. The full fuel stop screw needs to come out to add more fuel
On this pump, the screw has to go in. If you tear the governor apart and operate the linkage, you will see that the arm moves towards the front of the pump under load. The further forward this moves, the more fuel is applied. The fuel stop has to be screwed in to allow this to happen.