How to assemble cylinder head and modifications
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 มี.ค. 2018
- Complete assembly and raising compression modifications to the Datsun 280zx P79 cylinder head.
Be sure to watch the entire process of the suspension and drivetrain: 1973 Datsun 240z suspension and drivetrain build • 1973 Datsun 240z suspe...
Valves:
www.partsology.com/intake-and...
Valve seals:
www.partsology.com/dnj-fgs608...
Inner spring seat shim:
Nissan Part# 13206-2300A
www.courtesyparts.com/oem-par...
Outer spring seat shim:
13205-D020A
www.courtesyparts.com/oem-par...
Cam Tower Shims:
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/n...
Delta Camshafts:
deltacam.com
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Website: carsbikesandcoffee.weebly.com
Instagram: / carsbikesandcoffee
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Music by:
Joakim Karud / joakimkarud
DJ Quads / aka-dj-quads
DISCLAIMER: This video is only for entertainment purposes. If you rely on the information portrayed in this video, you assume the responsibility for the results. We do not make any warranties about the completeness, reliability, and accuracy of this information. Any action on a project you take upon the information is strictly at your own risk, and we will not be liable for any losses and damages in connection with the use of this information. Now let's get to fixing... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
For those watching. Do NOT use assembly lube on valve stems. That is wrong. It can cause a valve to stick causing damage to that cylinder.
I'm going to take a guess & say that cam did not last or you have a very noisy valve train that you can't figure what to do with. The video was good up until the 14:00 mark when you started to address the lash pads. Nissan FSM manuals do not measure valve lash between the lash pad & rocker arm tip but from the cam lobe heel to the rocker arm wipe pad. Not sure what exactly your machinist did to the head but if they put new valve seats in then the valve geometry will be off as very few machinist will set the valve seat depths equal on all twelve valves. This requires checking the cam wipe pattern is centred on the rocker arm wipe pad for each valve rocker & adjusting by way of lash pad thickness. A thicker lash pad will move the wipe pattern closer to the valve side while a thinner lash pad will move the wipe pattern closer to the pivot side. The cam has been reground so this automatically requires a thicker than stock lash pad. Also good luck finding thicker than stock lash pads these days.
The wipe pattern between the cam and the rocker arms should also be checked to ensure a centered pattern on the rocker arms, like you did with the lash pads. If not centered, different thickness lash pads must be used to correct the geometry.
Coupla questions for you: what is difficult lining up the towers and the cam?? did you torque the tower bolts incrementally?? Any cam bind? A slightly different question is did you check the wipe of the cam lobe on the rocker itself?? I thought that was more critical than the lash pad. Gotta get my books out and study up!!! nice job though. How are you supplying fuel?? triple carbs or FI? thanks
It wasn’t too difficult, just take your time. I found that finger tight and slowly moving the cam in and once in rotating it until it moved smoothly worked well. Then torque down the tower bolts. The torque isn’t huge so you just have to check that it moves smoothly, any bind, back off and try again.
With the wipe of the cam lobes, I had them resurfaced so I wasn’t too worried about them. For the lash pads you want them dead center for the wipe pattern. Check out my video on electric fuel pump install. Currently going to run my dual Weber’s then eventually switch to triples.
yes, you are right Joe m and there is no need the check lash pad wipe as long as you get the lash pads to suit the reground cam.
The wipe of the cam lobe on the rocker is critical ,as you don't want it running off either end and f#*k the cam.
adjustable with different lash pads as cam tower shims are mainly used for chain tighten after head skim
FYI the bigger the cam the less std timing marks line up
Very nice video only thing that was getting me was low volume when speaking and too loud when music. I am curious on your cam specs as I am looking into one from Delta I am 2 hour drive from them. Are thos stock springs? Working on n42 head f54 block.
+Patrick Allaire thanks for the feedback. I’ve definitely been working on my audio, check out my later videos.
In regards to the cam, this is their mild grind. Yes on the stock springs as well. I would say any more lift and aftermarket springs would be needed. Thanks for watching!
What size lash pad did you use for your regrind? And what sort of regrind did Delta do for you?
The lash pads were stock, but had Delta also resurface my rocker arms. So that’s why I checked the wipe pattern to make sure they were sized okay still. I was lucky. The regrind is their performance grind for the Z. I have the print out of the cam measurements if there is something specific. They were helpful, I told them what I had done to the engine and what I wanted from it performance wise. Basically is a mild grind. .470 lift with intake duration of 281.1 @ .020 and 228.8 @ .050 and exhaust duration of 279.4 @ .020 and 231.8 @ .050
@@CarsBikesandCoffee You have made a critical error that may cause premature cam wear. The wipe pattern to check is on the rocker arm bed not the lash pad. You have had the cam reground thus material was removed from the stock cam profile. The stock lash pads will be too thin & the cam lobe will run off the rocker wipe surface. To check the rocker bed wipe pattern 1)cut a feeler gauge into pieces so that they are stackable in the valve spring retainer 2) insert stock lash pad on top of cut feeler gauge pieces 3)coat the rocker wipe bed with machine blue/marker 4) insert rocker arm & tighten to spec valve lash 5) rotate cam & check wipe pattern 6) repeat by adding or removing feel gauge pieces until rocker arm wipe pattern is centered. The sum of the stock lash pad thickness + the feel gauge thickness will give you the required lash pad thickness. If your valve seats are all the same sunk spec & your cam is a symmetric grind then one valve check should suffice if not you will have to check each one.
i want to do same mod as you. If i'm not wrong i need 280z valves and i can retain my lash pads? will appreciate if you can help me with it. Thanks
+Manuel Garcia-galarza depending on which head you have. If you have the P79, then yes on the valves. For the lash pads you will have to check them as I did to be sure.
What are the specs on the cam ?
Dumb question. How would you know if the head is exactly how it's supposed to be to mount on the block? Since it was removed when block was at tdc
Never dumb questions. Once you get the cam and cam timing gear paired with the timing chain, following install to line up TDC, chain link, and notch in cam timing gear, you’re golden.
Which head is this. The chamber shape looks better than other L series heads
P79
wouldnt you have to lower the spring pocket or raise the valve seat to merit using spring shims that way. Get a spring height gauge and get installed height from manu. If Im wrong it will be the 4th time. cheers
+Forgiveness this is a mod using slightly longer valve stems, so to do this the shims are required. Thanks for watching!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Thank you. Geometry fun!!
+Forgiveness totally! Then you add the shaving of the deck of the head 2mm and then shim the towers up 2mm adds to the geometry abyss lol
👍
How does the oil lubricate the camshaft
There are channels through the cam towers that direct oil in between.
L26でハートの燃焼室？加工したのかな・・・ ブルー帯のカムは６８° 懐かしい～
Great vid but that song makes me wanna kms
Great until the last 2 minutes, why didn't you show checking the intake and exhaust at .008 and .01 and adjusting to work? And why didn't you show putting the springs on?
Starting at about 7:50 I show the springs being installed and about 14:43 mention about setting the gaps for exhaust and intake. Felt for the overall video showing how to set the gap would make the video too long.
where did you get that awesome shirt men, i want one
I got it online awhile back, let me know if you can’t find it
@@CarsBikesandCoffee i been searching on eBay but nothing close to this one you got, for a minute, I was thinking it was custom made by you
Ah, you know what, I was thinking of the Beastie Boys shirt at the end. You probably mean the Z shirt. Sorry. So that one I got from blipshift.com only the mainly do one time runs of their shirts. Sometimes they pop back up. I need to get some merch going 🤘🏻
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Damn i see what you mean, is a nice website with awesome shirts, but I'm very picky lol and your Z shirt is Nice.
That video is wrong on many levels.
The valve seats are recessed into the head. Milling off the bottom surface doesn’t change the top at all.
The timing chain tensioner is spring loaded and uses oil pressure to tighten the slack side of the chain. It will take up a lot of slack without any modification.
If you shave 0.080” or more, you may have to modify the chain guide on the tensioner side to take up the slack.
Then you need to get the timing right. The best performance is with the cam set so the notch is advanced ½ of the line.
See the manual if you don’t know about that.
Each tooth on the sprocket is 9 degrees. The #1, #2, & #3 marks are 4 degrees apart.
If you mill a lot off, at some point, You will advance the cam sprocket one link and start adjusting from there.
Don’t use cam tower shims unless your head was warped and you shaved the top.
Cam tower shims come in 0.016” and 0.024”. Don’t use more than you shave off the top.
For example, If you shave 0.010” off the top don’t use any shims.