Diagnosing and repairing P3348 or P3198. Turbo Actuator or Intake Swirl Flap motor on the 3.0 TDI.

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
  • A quick guide on how to diagnose and repair the VDO actuator motor J724 on Borg Warner BV50/Swirl flap motor as found on the Audi / VW 3.0 TDI.
    The connection between the two boards commonly breaks and will often show similiar symptoms.
    Note when refitting the turbo actuator the output percentage must be close to the input percentage. This is achieved using the slotted bolt holes.

ความคิดเห็น • 24

  • @nicolasbr1271
    @nicolasbr1271 5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Ça a fonctionné pour moi, j'ai cassé tous les petits fils donc remplacés par des fils de cuivre et le code P3348 n'apparaît plus
    Merci !

  • @thanospegiopoulos5614
    @thanospegiopoulos5614 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi, i get also 0.4-0.8 % but only when i test it hot.When car is cold i get matching numbers.Is it the actuator or the vanes that stuck when its hot?any opinion?

    • @94alexmm
      @94alexmm  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      You can test if it is mechanically stuck by turning the ignition off and moving the actuator rod by hand. You should see a reasonable range of motion.
      My guess is that your failure is identical to what is shown and the change in temperature is causing the connection to fail due to thermal expansion and contraction.

    • @94alexmm
      @94alexmm  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      It’s worth noting I was also seeing periodic failure for a while based on temperature until it failed permanently

    • @thanospegiopoulos5614
      @thanospegiopoulos5614 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      as far as i remember,i can move it even with the ignition off.When the car is working i cannot move it but i guess its normal.I will be opening the actuator in the weekend to check for any visible damage.I will try to clean the vanes with some mr muscle also and see what happens.

    • @94alexmm
      @94alexmm  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@thanospegiopoulos5614 yeah that’s normal behaviour. It should sweep from end to end when you first turn it on as a calibration phase. It will then fix to a position and you will not be able to move it by hand as the motor is holding it.

    • @thanospegiopoulos5614
      @thanospegiopoulos5614 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@94alexmm when hot also,when i erase the error code it comes back immediately when i turn the car off or i do the input test.Still moves when hot but shows incorrect values on output test,they dont match.Thanks for the info once again,i will check the actuator and see what i can do.Did you put the new ones with iron?

  • @denito323
    @denito323 ปีที่แล้ว

    hello, what did you solder the new jumpers with, I tried everything, but it doesn't catch anything on the board

    • @schmul123
      @schmul123 ปีที่แล้ว

      Same here

    • @schmul123
      @schmul123 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Solved! You have to scratch off the silver plating. Under it is copper. I used a Dremel

  • @alinionutbrasoveanu9256
    @alinionutbrasoveanu9256 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have the same problem P3348 electrical fault actuator (j724). so how did you solve the problem?

    • @94alexmm
      @94alexmm  ปีที่แล้ว

      Solved issue as shown in video by resoldering the connection between the two circuit boards.
      If the issue still persists after this repair you will most likely need a new unit.
      Units are calibrated specifically to your turbocharger as there is flash memory on the circuit that stores the endstop positions of the actuator.
      If you fit another unit you may need to elongate the holes in order to get it to stop in the expected position. This is how you the pre-programmmed chinese clone units to work.
      if you buy oem you will need a VAS calibration tool.
      It may also be possible to swap the motor assembly from another unit to your circuit board if that happens to be the cause of the fault. This will ensure you retain your saved end stop postions.

    • @alinionutbrasoveanu9256
      @alinionutbrasoveanu9256 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@94alexmm so I take the actuator down after the turbo, open it cleanly there at the pins and put a wire, can this also be made of copper or aluminum? I do exactly as you did in the video

    • @94alexmm
      @94alexmm  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@alinionutbrasoveanu9256
      Yeah. Thats correct.
      Remove heatshield.
      Mark the position the actuator is at on the turbo charger.
      Remove actuator. (I used a stubby ratcheting spanner)
      Separate actuator circuit board from motor assembly.
      Resolder connection.
      Either can use copper solid core, or even easier just cut the tail off some resistors.
      Reassemble and refit to turbocharger.
      If it is lined up perfectly it will work on refitting, but most likely you will need VCDS to check that the input/output percentage is in spec.
      If it is too far out of tolerance it will not pass the calibration sequence on start up until it is readjusted.

    • @alinionutbrasoveanu9256
      @alinionutbrasoveanu9256 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@94alexmm can you show me how and where to check the actuator on the turbo? I looked at what he's like, I'm giving signs and I can't figure out what to get after.. Please a video?

    • @user-mn8wv3sv2m
      @user-mn8wv3sv2m ปีที่แล้ว

      @@94alexmm I changed turbo actuator and error is still here, and also car doesnt have power. (P3348 error; also I changed throttle body…)Do u think it is because I didnt calibrate it?
      What actually VAS tool is?