Entertaining premise for a competition. On a side note - have you tried the Manix XL in CPM Cru-wear? Pocket hog? Yes. Possibly the best folding knife Spyderco make? Also yes! 😉 Joking aside the XL is a magnificent tool for hard work outdoors and is the only folder I’ve ever used that does a pretty convincing impression of being a parang.
Very interesting video, I also have a preference for slim designs but I've developed more of an appreciation for hand-filling ergonomics as I've handled more knives. The real trick is doing both with the same design, and that often comes down to tiny details like swells and scoops at very particular places on the handle. Also, handle thickness and squareness makes a huge difference, thin knives are really hard to keep stable in an edge-forward orientation unless you're hammer-fisting them. 420HC (the "secret Sandvik" steel) impresses again!
Yep, I agree. I think classic designs often are more rounded and comfortable. The non HD Mora companion is the comfiest grip ive come across. The opinel is pretty good and stupidly slicey.
Bravo! Excellent discussion! You seem to me to be furthering the type of exploring and testing illuminated by the dearly departed Cliff Stamp. I find your questions and the journey they lead to quite interesting and edifying. I look forward to the next round! Also nice music; reminds me of Nick Drake :)
In my recent research I am finding the hollow grinds on Kitchen cutlery I am testing are not a perfect arc. The hollow grinds are actually 2 small flat grinds with the transition 0.375 behind the cutting edge. The MAC Superior uses a 1.4º followed by a 2.7º blending back into the blade at 0.625". The Mercer White 3.1º followed by 5.7º blending back into the blade at 0.500". - Now we have enough data to support the concept that real world performance is tightly tied to to B.T.E thickness & low angle grinds. - I have diagramed out & performance tested 9 blades in great detail, all to be shared. Thanks for all that you share. - I really like the concept & practicality of modifying a hollow ground blades to circumvent the performance limitations built into lower cost knives.
I had a custom knife made with a hallow grind because I wanted slicy but the maker left the BTE thickness at about .030 so it has a huge almost Scandi secondary. Love the knife other than that. It’s in M4 at about 62 HRC so I think he just got tired of grinding and “decided to leave it a little tougher”. But I never thought to try this flattening idea! I am scared to try it on a custom but I might since I don’t really use it because it’s so thick.
Not that my opinion matters since this is a video about yours, but to me a flat V is just the general purpose standard, and any deviation from that is something I do when I have an application spesific reason to.
I'm only adequate at sharpening in my opinion but I've got a lot of those holes in my shirts so I guess I'm doing something right. I'm persistent if nothing else when sharpening. My wife doesn't know why all my shirts have those little holes, she thinks it's happening in the washer, from a button on my pants or something. I let her believe that so I don't have to admit to how dumb I am. I actually didn't know where the holes were coming from for a little while.
The manix lock is extremely strong, and very smooth, easy to use, ambidextrous, I'm not sure what you mean by overrated, but the native line is definitely outstanding, I have the native 5 in cpm 4v with half back lock, the lil native in cpm m4 with compression lock, and the native chief in cpm m4 with half back lock, all are outstanding
The Manix needs a shallow transition bevel, otherwise its an unfair comperasion! 🧐 (Its a fair comperasion regarding factory grind ofc.) About Spyderco's i have to say they have an excellent true full flat grind with a high blade, so an unusually low angle. This allows for way shallower transition bevels than usual "full flat" grinds. What bugs me about Spyderco's is that their factory bevel is unnecessarily large. Using a shallow convex transition on them is also very neat, as it might be the best middleground between cutting performance and stability for them. You really gotta try it. 😉 I dont have a clear preference between this grind and fullow, it ofc simply depends on the KNIVE what grind i put on it. Unfortunately a lot of knives where fullow can be put on, have too thick stock (like you mentioned), not a tall enough blade to decrease angle, and often arent full hollow but have a flat section so again wastes potential for low angle. And as long as spyderco does being out a full hollow grind knive in magnacut (or there are affordable reblades), sadly "fullow" wont be my primary carried grind :/ , and instead one i put on the hollow grind knives friends or me have laying around to make them more enjoyable. I adore my Spyderco UKPK in Magnacut ❤, as its legal to carry in germany, and has so good ergonomics. Not having to first lay down what you want to cut to open the knive is a convenience i really dont want to miss.
@@sabelfechter7136 Learn how to pick an efficient coarse stone and it will take a whole lot less effort than you think. Otherwise, limit your purchases to knives that come sufficiently thin from the factory. (You'll save a whole heck of a lot of money that way!)
@@sabelfechter7136 I much prefer traditional stones for thinning. You want something soft enough to release grit when thinning, but not so soft you wind up with a mudbath. Every time I find a good stone it quickly disappears from the market. I don't have any good recommendations that are actually available at the moment.
There has to be something said, preferably at the start than the end, of a knife that strops back so well. It’s not much of a bother to strop a knife after use but getting all those stones out and sharpening??? Long live those steels/grinds that strops back and long live 14c28n as a budget steel because it does it so well.
@@rockets4kids Takes some time to thin your primary bevels, though. Makes it a whole lot slicier, so its worth it. Cliff stamp was a huge proponent for this. Thin the primary, microbevel, and test, observe the wear type and increase the bevels depending if it fails by flexing or chipping rather than mostly abrasive wear.
the manix has the worst locking design of any knife. I only wish they offered it with the backlock. they did offer the manix with with lockback mechanism, but they don't sell it anymore. most dangerous knife I have ever known because the mechanism is so overly strong and stiff. you're going to cut yourself whatever way you try to close it if you get one of those, but it's a flaw in the design if they need to make the spring that strong. I did own a g10 version of the knife
you must be a weak little bitch. i’ve literally never struggled with the manix lock at all. it’s also stronger and more reliable than an axis lock. i’ve never cut myself once on any of my manixes and i own three and one of them is probably one of my most carried knives period.
Spy 27 vs. 420HC, a classic, old school 110 vs. modern platics and engineering................ kinda like comparing a Corvette to a really nice pair of rollerskates isn't it?
You're using my favorite childhood knife and my current favorite knife. This is great stuff.
honestly, i think you just modified the hollow grind into an S grind? love this
You inadvertently made that Buck blade look good! Picked up a LW Rex 45 Manix 2 and it goes everywhere with me.
Entertaining premise for a competition. On a side note - have you tried the Manix XL in CPM Cru-wear? Pocket hog? Yes. Possibly the best folding knife Spyderco make? Also yes! 😉 Joking aside the XL is a magnificent tool for hard work outdoors and is the only folder I’ve ever used that does a pretty convincing impression of being a parang.
Very interesting video, I also have a preference for slim designs but I've developed more of an appreciation for hand-filling ergonomics as I've handled more knives. The real trick is doing both with the same design, and that often comes down to tiny details like swells and scoops at very particular places on the handle. Also, handle thickness and squareness makes a huge difference, thin knives are really hard to keep stable in an edge-forward orientation unless you're hammer-fisting them. 420HC (the "secret Sandvik" steel) impresses again!
Yep, I agree. I think classic designs often are more rounded and comfortable. The non HD Mora companion is the comfiest grip ive come across. The opinel is pretty good and stupidly slicey.
Bravo! Excellent discussion!
You seem to me to be furthering the type of exploring and testing illuminated by the dearly departed Cliff Stamp.
I find your questions and the journey they lead to quite interesting and edifying. I look forward to the next round!
Also nice music; reminds me of Nick Drake :)
Dude the manix 2 lightweight is soooooo good. I love it. I have a 112 and 110 but the manix is still by far my favorite
I'll second that.
420 should never have better edge retention than spy 27, are you sure you removed the burr completely, got it as sharp as the 420 to begin with?
In my recent research I am finding the hollow grinds on Kitchen cutlery I am testing are not a perfect arc.
The hollow grinds are actually 2 small flat grinds with the transition 0.375 behind the cutting edge.
The MAC Superior uses a 1.4º followed by a 2.7º blending back into the blade at 0.625".
The Mercer White 3.1º followed by 5.7º blending back into the blade at 0.500".
- Now we have enough data to support the concept that real world performance
is tightly tied to to B.T.E thickness & low angle grinds.
- I have diagramed out & performance tested 9 blades in great detail, all to be shared.
Thanks for all that you share.
- I really like the concept & practicality of modifying a hollow ground blades to circumvent
the performance limitations built into lower cost knives.
I wish that you would show the sharpening process. I am really interested on tips of dual grind edges and how to thin the behind the edge thickness
It's one of the first vids on his channel. First vid is explanation, part two is the process.
I had a custom knife made with a hallow grind because I wanted slicy but the maker left the BTE thickness at about .030 so it has a huge almost Scandi secondary. Love the knife other than that. It’s in M4 at about 62 HRC so I think he just got tired of grinding and “decided to leave it a little tougher”. But I never thought to try this flattening idea! I am scared to try it on a custom but I might since I don’t really use it because it’s so thick.
Not that my opinion matters since this is a video about yours, but to me a flat V is just the general purpose standard, and any deviation from that is something I do when I have an application spesific reason to.
I'm only adequate at sharpening in my opinion but I've got a lot of those holes in my shirts so I guess I'm doing something right. I'm persistent if nothing else when sharpening. My wife doesn't know why all my shirts have those little holes, she thinks it's happening in the washer, from a button on my pants or something. I let her believe that so I don't have to admit to how dumb I am. I actually didn't know where the holes were coming from for a little while.
Manix 2 is good but overrated due to the lock. Don't mind the fanboys. They have yet to discover that the native 5 is secretly spyderco's best knife.
Yes or the Endura 4
That and native 5 best ones
@Tym-mf4of Untouchable classics.
I carry a native 5 often. But my most often carried Spyderco is the endura wharnie k390.
The manix lock is extremely strong, and very smooth, easy to use, ambidextrous, I'm not sure what you mean by overrated, but the native line is definitely outstanding, I have the native 5 in cpm 4v with half back lock, the lil native in cpm m4 with compression lock, and the native chief in cpm m4 with half back lock, all are outstanding
@@ElonaldTrusk k390 is cool. Bought that custom grind dragonfly.
Take that Buck to full flat grind (grind away all of the hollow) and it will cut even better.
I know you won't like the name BUT you have to call it the Gabriel Grind!
The Manix needs a shallow transition bevel, otherwise its an unfair comperasion! 🧐
(Its a fair comperasion regarding factory grind ofc.)
About Spyderco's i have to say they have an excellent true full flat grind with a high blade, so an unusually low angle. This allows for way shallower transition bevels than usual "full flat" grinds.
What bugs me about Spyderco's is that their factory bevel is unnecessarily large.
Using a shallow convex transition on them is also very neat, as it might be the best middleground between cutting performance and stability for them. You really gotta try it. 😉
I dont have a clear preference between this grind and fullow, it ofc simply depends on the KNIVE what grind i put on it.
Unfortunately a lot of knives where fullow can be put on, have too thick stock (like you mentioned), not a tall enough blade to decrease angle, and often arent full hollow but have a flat section so again wastes potential for low angle.
And as long as spyderco does being out a full hollow grind knive in magnacut (or there are affordable reblades), sadly "fullow" wont be my primary carried grind :/ , and instead one i put on the hollow grind knives friends or me have laying around to make them more enjoyable.
I adore my Spyderco UKPK in Magnacut ❤, as its legal to carry in germany, and has so good ergonomics.
Not having to first lay down what you want to cut to open the knive is a convenience i really dont want to miss.
There is nothing stopping you from thinning out your Spyderco knives.
@rockets4kids Effort. Thinning takes a *lot* of it.
@@sabelfechter7136 Learn how to pick an efficient coarse stone and it will take a whole lot less effort than you think.
Otherwise, limit your purchases to knives that come sufficiently thin from the factory. (You'll save a whole heck of a lot of money that way!)
@rockets4kids Which do you use, and what do you think of the atoma 140?
@@sabelfechter7136 I much prefer traditional stones for thinning. You want something soft enough to release grit when thinning, but not so soft you wind up with a mudbath. Every time I find a good stone it quickly disappears from the market. I don't have any good recommendations that are actually available at the moment.
There has to be something said, preferably at the start than the end, of a knife that strops back so well. It’s not much of a bother to strop a knife after use but getting all those stones out and sharpening??? Long live those steels/grinds that strops back and long live 14c28n as a budget steel because it does it so well.
If you learn how to use stones and a micro-bevel it is vastly more time-effective than trying to strop a knife back to sharp.
@@rockets4kids
Takes some time to thin your primary bevels, though. Makes it a whole lot slicier, so its worth it. Cliff stamp was a huge proponent for this. Thin the primary, microbevel, and test, observe the wear type and increase the bevels depending if it fails by flexing or chipping rather than mostly abrasive wear.
I could buy 4 Buck 110 Lt for the price of ONE CTS BD1 Manix 2 Lt. 🤦♂️🤣
and the manix will hold an edge better , is a stronger knife period, and is a thousand times more ergonomic than the buck
Sweet! Cool Gabe! ❤❤❤🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸💯💯💯💯🌏🌏🌏🥝🥝🥝🌿🌿🌿🌿
the manix has the worst locking design of any knife. I only wish they offered it with the backlock. they did offer the manix with with lockback mechanism, but they don't sell it anymore. most dangerous knife I have ever known because the mechanism is so overly strong and stiff. you're going to cut yourself whatever way you try to close it if you get one of those, but it's a flaw in the design if they need to make the spring that strong. I did own a g10 version of the knife
you must be a weak little bitch. i’ve literally never struggled with the manix lock at all. it’s also stronger and more reliable than an axis lock. i’ve never cut myself once on any of my manixes and i own three and one of them is probably one of my most carried knives period.
Spy 27 vs. 420HC, a classic, old school 110 vs. modern platics and engineering................ kinda like comparing a Corvette to a really nice pair of rollerskates isn't it?