It's so funny that your canvas size is determined by the size of your car. I bought a SUV for the same reason. Thanks so much for creating and sharing this video.
I recently made 4x4 ft panels with 1/4 inch ply, on 1 1/4 furring bars. Note that Lowe’s or Home Depot will not, WILL NOT be exact with your cuts. I had to do a general cut at the store, and even then all the support bars were cut to varying lengths, but with enough extra for me to cut at home myself to exact specifications. Pro tip, do ALL YOUR BASIC MEASUREMENTS FIRST AND BE READY TO ADJUST. Each panel and environmental conditions will be different, so be ready to make cuts or adjustments on the fly. Something to keep in mind. I spent a total of approx $82 dollars for (3) panels, so roughly 28 dollars a panel. Moral of the story: befriend a carpenter. 😂
Thank you for making the comment about the 45 degree angles making a stronger canvas! I have been making them without 45 degree angles and now I will start making them at 45 degrees!
I love that Home Depot will cut the wood. I can’t do mitered corners though so I’ll likely do it without that and I’ll just add a support bar in the middle
I would go with higher grade wood for panels to prevent potential warping. You can see in this video there is already distortion in the wood with the inexpensive wood she is using.
I wanted to put a clamp on that so badly. In general, though, once it's glued down, is that usually enough to keep it from bowing? I'm thinking you could never have too many clamps for this.
It's not really the grade, it's the thickness that determines how stable a plywood panel is going to be. And she was referring to the grade of the lumber used for the frame anyway, not the panel. You wouldn't really use furniture grade lumber for the frame of a panel. The best lumber to get is kiln dried because it will warp less over time, and you should go through the stack of lumber in the store to find the straightest boards. Even then, you wont necessarily find boards that are perfect. Ideally you would glue up the frame on a flat surface and ensure it is perfectly flat and square, only then would you actually attach it to the panel and use it to pull the panel flat. And of course, the more clamps and screws the better.
Thanks for the vid! I'm always curious what other artists methods are. I've always made the frame first and let it dried, especially with bigger panels and then glue down the ground surface. Even a center support beam on back sometimes since I work big too. I work with encaustics so they can get heavy...
Hi, what is your system to hang a cradled panel this size? Do you use French Cleats? I’m assuming even if you’re using Birch or another lightweight material, that this panel is going to get heavy. Looking for some advice, thanks!
What kind of wood is used for the main surface? Is it archival? I know most wood from HD is pressure treated with added chemicals. Kinda looks like balsa wood but i do not know.
Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial!! Do you know what kind of wood you used for the main panel? I tried cutting down a panel at Lowe's recently and was told it was too thin?
It’s not just warping you need to worry about. Both sides do need to be sealed before applying a ground, otherwise the oils in your paint will get absorbed into the wood and your painting will rot over a short period of time.
You should use MANY more clamps than she was using here to get a really solid contact with all pieces. Bar clamps would be the best and separate the process into the glue up of the back stretcher pieces with band clamps to keep everything square and then clamp this to the front panel. Trying to speed up the process leads to an inferior product. Take your time
Great tip! So you think the glue is strong enough to hold the sides on long-term? And what about your hardware? Where do you place that? Just hoping that the glue will be strong enough to hold the hardware if I put it on the sides.
Fun fact, wood glue and the bond it forms is actually stronger than the wood itself if the joint is properly glued. The wood will fail & break before the glue gives out.
I just bought a 2x4 ft panel for about $50. All these materials I bet cost under $30. A panel the size she made is probably usually priced well over $75. So it’s up to you and your experience and the tools you have I guess.
Depends on what you already have like if you just need the wood you can make 2 this size for maybe 20 bucks....if you buy that size pre-made from an art store would be really expensive 2 would run about 175-200
I can make a 4x4 panel for ~$32 and that's with an extra crossing center brace. I also don't bother putting canvas over the wood as I've found it unnecessary, can just seal and gesso the panel and you're good to go. 1 - 4'x4' 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood $10 3 - 1"x2"x12' Cedar boards $21 ($7/each)
I make all my own panels, and it comes down to size, for a larger panel, scale goes up, but the price actually goes down, because it take just as much time to make as a smaller panel! Plus, I do not think I have seen panels as large as hers- at a cost less than 100 bucks! I can make 30 to 40 smaller panels for that!
A few points: 1. I believe that you might have more subscribers if you responded to posts. I would suggest that no response gives an impression that the purpose of the video is to impress rather than assist. Just my opinion. 2. Home Depot or Lowes etc will NOT cut your smaller 1x2s with mitered ends, and if they did it would not be accurate, just as their cutting a 4x8 to two equal sizes would not be accurate. Also cutting a 4 x 8 and expecting two 48 'X 48 " pieces is not possible, the saw blade will take out a minimum of 1/8th inch.... that and they use crude dull blades not intended specifically for plywood. . They are NOT in the business of "service" they are in the business of getting you out the door. Keep in mind the employees are not woodworking crafts persons. If you want accurate cuts go to a proper lumber yard or a cabinet shop. 3. "flat cut" boards ( straight cuts) connected are known as "butt" joints .. and correct they have no strength and would require some type of hardware to fix them in place. ( as would all the pieces in this video.. glue is not enough).. As a long time woodworker.. I would make and use corner "gussets" or splines . I do not compromise. 4. The original "Gorilla" glue is not "wood" glue. Be sure you do not use it. It is a multipurpose expanding glue that will spread your jointed wood it has less strength than many other glues. Gorilla glue also requires a solvent such as acetone or alcohol or lacquer thinner to remove unwanted glue or for clean-up. If you are going to use a "wood" glue.. I strongly recommend TITEBOND II .. easier to use and water clean-up. Professionals use this. 5. Clamps. Get proper corner clamps intended for .. you guessed it.. corners. .. Use more clamps. 6. This construction method should be used with mechanical fasteners at all the corners and for the additional braces. Glue is not good enough. I would also recommend a cross bar 1 x 2 side to side and centered. 7. I would recommend looking at LUAN plywood 1/4".. also a newer product EUCABOARD. I will be experimenting with this in the near future. It is a manufactured product that might be used in place of "artists hardboard"... the standard wood panel used for many years and now grossly expensive. I believe eucaboard may be available at Home Depot or Lowes in an approximate 1/8th inch and an approximate 1/4 inch. Approximate because it is made in So America and off shore to the east where they use the metric system. Full disclosure... 32 years as a "fine" furniture maker and artist. Formally a national corporate educator specializing in "Customer Service Training" .
Hi Jeff! I can’t thank you enough for your comment! If I could ask you a few questions please. Have you tried the eucaboard yet? And what are your thoughts about Masonite with whiteboard on one side? Also about luan, I was looking at it today. It seems sturdy. Will it warp? I like the idea of the eucaboard because it’s less expensive and I don’t have a lot of money to paint big. It also look to be sturdy. I just don’t have it where I live. Thank you again.
@@TJ-jq9bz Hi, I have yet to get the eucaboard.. I'll try this weekend. One of the reasons I have not used it.. it has a textured surface on one side and smooth on the other.. I prefer smooth both sides. My solution may be to gesso the textured side.. not sure yet but I will let you know. As to the material with the white on one side.. years ago when the material I used then (DURON a 3M product and the best) was discontinued.. I could find nothing but the stuff with the white paint on one side. The material was punky and rather fragile.. I searched and found a better product. This simply goes by the name hardboard and is smooth both sides. I want smooth because I paint the a solid color on the backs of all my work.. a little bit of "class". LUAN is Phillipine (sp) mahogany which is NOT a true mahogany.. but it works. If and when I use it I frame it. so warpage no problem. There is another product called MEDITE. It comes in many thicknesses. I use 1/4 inch It is very durable and a bit heavy but takes paint well. Now, all of these materials are expensive.. Try the masonite with the white and see if it works for you. And I'll get back to you about the eucaboard.. I am intrigued because it seems to be ok and reasonably priced compared to most of the others.. it's down to how I can handle the textures side. I do not like a textured side as the cheapest of the Masonites had the texture and it was commonly known as "beaverboard" because the texture looked like a Beaver's tail. take a look at jjhildrethstudios
@@jeffhildreth9244 awww! I was totally wondering where you lived and wishing I could hang with you and get your help🥰. I live in Lindale Texas. I love your art ❤️
I'm interesting in this kind of videos cuz I'm taking Art classes and will start using canvas at tomorrow class. Nice video but I have to tell you that I could heard you very well even though I had the maximum volume. Maybe you can work in that.
Uhm why are you using really nice plywood if you're not priming it and painting directly on it... Seems like a waste of wood and adds a lot of weight . Tempered hardboard is probably the way to go guys.
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It's so funny that your canvas size is determined by the size of your car. I bought a SUV for the same reason. Thanks so much for creating and sharing this video.
thank you so much for this video! i needed a 48x48" panel and this has saved me at least $200!
I recently made 4x4 ft panels with 1/4 inch ply, on 1 1/4 furring bars. Note that Lowe’s or Home Depot will not, WILL NOT be exact with your cuts. I had to do a general cut at the store, and even then all the support bars were cut to varying lengths, but with enough extra for me to cut at home myself to exact specifications. Pro tip, do ALL YOUR BASIC MEASUREMENTS FIRST AND BE READY TO ADJUST. Each panel and environmental conditions will be different, so be ready to make cuts or adjustments on the fly. Something to keep in mind. I spent a total of approx $82 dollars for (3) panels, so roughly 28 dollars a panel. Moral of the story: befriend a carpenter. 😂
Hope you make part 2 - stretching of the canvas over the panel.
Thank you for making the comment about the 45 degree angles making a stronger canvas! I have been making them without 45 degree angles and now I will start making them at 45 degrees!
This was a great video! Easy to follow and very detailed ! Thank you
I like your cinder blocks. And the DIY video which is very helpful. Thank you!
I needed this video! Thanks 😊
This was real helpful!
This is very helpful! Thank you!
That was a seriously great tutorial 🙏
What a great video, thank you 🙏🏻.
Thanks so much. Really helpful. Some good comments too. Learned a lot.💐😀
Thank you so much. Very helpful.
So helpful thank you!!
Part 2? Need to know how you add the canvas
Great tutorial for starting the day,
Good film, thank you 🇬🇧
I love that Home Depot will cut the wood. I can’t do mitered corners though so I’ll likely do it without that and I’ll just add a support bar in the middle
Thank you for this video it was very helpful! you are so beautiful btw !
Nice job Sister, thank you Alhumdulila ❤
I would go with higher grade wood for panels to prevent potential warping. You can see in this video there is already distortion in the wood with the inexpensive wood she is using.
I wanted to put a clamp on that so badly. In general, though, once it's glued down, is that usually enough to keep it from bowing? I'm thinking you could never have too many clamps for this.
It's not really the grade, it's the thickness that determines how stable a plywood panel is going to be. And she was referring to the grade of the lumber used for the frame anyway, not the panel. You wouldn't really use furniture grade lumber for the frame of a panel.
The best lumber to get is kiln dried because it will warp less over time, and you should go through the stack of lumber in the store to find the straightest boards. Even then, you wont necessarily find boards that are perfect.
Ideally you would glue up the frame on a flat surface and ensure it is perfectly flat and square, only then would you actually attach it to the panel and use it to pull the panel flat. And of course, the more clamps and screws the better.
Thanks! 😊😊😊
I want to be an artists too. Like you! 🤍
What kind of wood panel is this? Any updates on the wrapping?
Oh im so newbie I been callin it framed board. But cradled i now will call it
Thanks for the vid! I'm always curious what other artists methods are. I've always made the frame first and let it dried, especially with bigger panels and then glue down the ground surface. Even a center support beam on back sometimes since I work big too. I work with encaustics so they can get heavy...
Oh I see!! You have canvas too to hold everything together.... It all makes sense now.... heh
Hi, what is your system to hang a cradled panel this size? Do you use French Cleats? I’m assuming even if you’re using Birch or another lightweight material, that this panel is going to get heavy. Looking for some advice, thanks!
Any tips for flattening a warped panel that’s already cradled?
Thanks
What type of wood is the lightest on weight to make a frame like this> not sue that she mentioned wood type. Please advise, and thank you !
Now questions do u need canvas material on it? Or could u just paint on the wood or would that ruin the wood?
What kind of wood is used for the main surface? Is it archival? I know most wood from HD is pressure treated with added chemicals. Kinda looks like balsa wood but i do not know.
How thick is your wood panel/board?
Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial!! Do you know what kind of wood you used for the main panel? I tried cutting down a panel at Lowe's recently and was told it was too thin?
I was taught to use wood that's at least 1/4 inch thick. Birch or other quality wood.
Where can i find your video on how to stretch the canvas over the panel?
What type of wood is this?
Hi, thanks for the video. One question, how thick is your wood panel? Thank you
you can do 1/8 inch and above
In the description she mentions that it's 1/4 inch - 6 or 7 mm
@@MrIzzySparks for that size 1/4 inch/6mm
what type timber?
is your panel 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch? most birch panel is from Russia so I'm thinking now of looking at maple to start making my own ellipse panels
Find 4x8 sheets of LUAN 1/4 inch panelling
tnx
Still waiting for your video on how to wrap the panels with canvas!
Hi will this hold resin craft
PRETTY LADY...
If I were to paint directly on the wood panel... do I have to treat both sides of the panel-surfaces to prevent warping?
It’s not just warping you need to worry about. Both sides do need to be sealed before applying a ground, otherwise the oils in your paint will get absorbed into the wood and your painting will rot over a short period of time.
@@themeansofmeaningwhat if it’s acrylic
You should use MANY more clamps than she was using here to get a really solid contact with all pieces. Bar clamps would be the best and separate the process into the glue up of the back stretcher pieces with band clamps to keep everything square and then clamp this to the front panel. Trying to speed up the process leads to an inferior product. Take your time
Dane...The proper way is to use corner/miter clamps and , as you mentioned, many many many more clamps.
i noticed there was a big gap in the panel she was working on.
more clamps!!!!!
Great tip! So you think the glue is strong enough to hold the sides on long-term? And what about your hardware? Where do you place that? Just hoping that the glue will be strong enough to hold the hardware if I put it on the sides.
Fun fact, wood glue and the bond it forms is actually stronger than the wood itself if the joint is properly glued. The wood will fail & break before the glue gives out.
Yes, Jenny.
@@RGun90 Not on miters with no attaching hardware or a flat triangular corner brace.
How thick is he wood
Can I have the thick of the Playwood please?
To your right 60×60
Thickness of wood?
Do you sell them that's good work you could make money just selling those.
Is it more expensive to build rather then buy considering the time put in?
I just bought a 2x4 ft panel for about $50. All these materials I bet cost under $30. A panel the size she made is probably usually priced well over $75. So it’s up to you and your experience and the tools you have I guess.
If you’re lookin for a large panel they are around $75, plus $50-$100 shipping if you don’t live close to a professional art supply store.
Curious. What is the cost of making this size (DIY) panel versus the cost of a same size, pre-made panel.
Depends on what you already have like if you just need the wood you can make 2 this size for maybe 20 bucks....if you buy that size pre-made from an art store would be really expensive 2 would run about 175-200
@@trahapace150 Quite a savings!
I can make a 4x4 panel for ~$32 and that's with an extra crossing center brace. I also don't bother putting canvas over the wood as I've found it unnecessary, can just seal and gesso the panel and you're good to go.
1 - 4'x4' 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood $10
3 - 1"x2"x12' Cedar boards $21 ($7/each)
I make all my own panels, and it comes down to size, for a larger panel, scale goes up, but the price actually goes down, because it take just as much time to make as a smaller panel! Plus, I do not think I have seen panels as large as hers- at a cost less than 100 bucks! I can make 30 to 40 smaller panels for that!
From my experience making the canvases yourself is definitely cheaper especially if your buying your canvases from a art store or a craft store
Oh I wish you had more video. Looks like you stopped at this one.
When are you going to make more videos
Part 2?
A few points:
1. I believe that you might have more subscribers if you responded to posts. I would suggest that no response gives an impression that the purpose of the video is to impress rather than assist. Just my opinion.
2. Home Depot or Lowes etc will NOT cut your smaller 1x2s with mitered ends, and if they did it would not be accurate, just as their cutting a 4x8 to two equal sizes would not be accurate. Also cutting a 4 x 8 and expecting two 48 'X 48 " pieces is not possible, the saw blade will take out a minimum of 1/8th inch.... that and they use crude dull blades not intended specifically for plywood. . They are NOT in the business of "service" they are in the business of getting you out the door. Keep in mind the employees are not woodworking crafts persons.
If you want accurate cuts go to a proper lumber yard or a cabinet shop.
3. "flat cut" boards ( straight cuts) connected are known as "butt" joints .. and correct they have no strength and would require some type of hardware to fix them in place. ( as would all the pieces in this video.. glue is not enough)..
As a long time woodworker.. I would make and use corner "gussets" or splines . I do not compromise.
4. The original "Gorilla" glue is not "wood" glue. Be sure you do not use it. It is a multipurpose expanding glue that will spread your jointed wood it has less strength than many other glues. Gorilla glue also requires a solvent such as acetone or alcohol or lacquer thinner to remove unwanted glue or for clean-up. If you are going to use a "wood" glue.. I strongly recommend TITEBOND II .. easier to use and water clean-up. Professionals use this.
5. Clamps. Get proper corner clamps intended for .. you guessed it.. corners. .. Use more clamps.
6. This construction method should be used with mechanical fasteners at all the corners and for the additional braces. Glue is not good enough. I would also recommend a cross bar 1 x 2 side to side and centered.
7. I would recommend looking at LUAN plywood 1/4".. also a newer product EUCABOARD. I will be experimenting with this in the near future. It is a manufactured product that might be used in place of "artists hardboard"... the standard wood panel used for many years and now grossly expensive. I believe eucaboard may be available at Home Depot or Lowes in an approximate 1/8th inch and an approximate 1/4 inch. Approximate because it is made in So America and off shore to the east where they use the metric system.
Full disclosure... 32 years as a "fine" furniture maker and artist. Formally a national corporate educator specializing in "Customer Service Training" .
Hi Jeff! I can’t thank you enough for your comment! If I could ask you a few questions please. Have you tried the eucaboard yet? And what are your thoughts about Masonite with whiteboard on one side? Also about luan, I was looking at it today. It seems sturdy. Will it warp? I like the idea of the eucaboard because it’s less expensive and I don’t have a lot of money to paint big. It also look to be sturdy. I just don’t have it where I live. Thank you again.
@@TJ-jq9bz Hi,
I have yet to get the eucaboard.. I'll try this weekend.
One of the reasons I have not used it.. it has a textured surface on one side and smooth on the other.. I prefer smooth both sides.
My solution may be to gesso the textured side.. not sure yet but I will let you know.
As to the material with the white on one side.. years ago when the material I used then (DURON a 3M product and the best) was discontinued.. I could find nothing but the stuff with the white paint on one side. The material was punky and rather fragile.. I searched and found a better product. This simply goes by the name hardboard and is smooth both sides. I want smooth because I paint the a solid color on the backs of all my work.. a little bit of "class".
LUAN is Phillipine (sp) mahogany which is NOT a true mahogany.. but it works. If and when I use it I frame it. so warpage no problem.
There is another product called MEDITE. It comes in many thicknesses. I use 1/4 inch It is very durable and a bit heavy but takes paint well.
Now, all of these materials are expensive..
Try the masonite with the white and see if it works for you. And I'll get back to you about the eucaboard.. I am intrigued because it seems to be ok and reasonably priced compared to most of the others.. it's down to how I can handle the textures side.
I do not like a textured side as the cheapest of the Masonites had the texture and it was commonly known as "beaverboard" because the texture looked like a Beaver's tail.
take a look at jjhildrethstudios
@@jeffhildreth9244 thanksgiving you so much and I will!
@@TJ-jq9bz I'm in So Oregon BTW..
If I were closer.. I'd be pleased to help out.
J
@@jeffhildreth9244 awww! I was totally wondering where you lived and wishing I could hang with you and get your help🥰. I live in Lindale Texas. I love your art ❤️
I'm interesting in this kind of videos cuz I'm taking Art classes and will start using canvas at tomorrow class.
Nice video but I have to tell you that I could heard you very well even though I had the maximum volume. Maybe you can work in that.
Think the corner bars would be sturdier if set on their sides with a couple nails in each end.
good video but was so quiet, i had speakers up full blast and could hardly hear it
Thank you Olivia! What thickness is your plywood panel? Thank You and Be Well! 🍻
Your sound level is too low.
That was a waste of time
Uhm why are you using really nice plywood if you're not priming it and painting directly on it... Seems like a waste of wood and adds a lot of weight . Tempered hardboard is probably the way to go guys.