You don't need to pull back the retaining clip when installing the strut, the shape of the ball will push back the clip and then it will lock when fully engaged on the ball.
Great video! I don’t even have an AM, but am in the market for one. Now I’m not so scared of cars with old door struts. I’m not very mechanical inclined, but I think I might could possibly DIY this
if you look closely at 8:12 he unsnaps the retaining clip on the front mounting point and begins to pry the strut off the front ball. but when the pry bar slips off (8:22) on his first attempt to remove it, the retaining clip partially snaps back on (.8:27). from this point on he's actually prying the strut off without unclipping the retaining clip. compare clip at 8:15 (fully unclipped), 8:27 (partially reclipped) and 8:33 (fully clipped). no wonder he bent the pry bar. fortunately, he didn't bend the frame. of course, the procedure was correctly explained, it was only the execution left a little to be desired. :) BTW, i just performed this task today and i'll add my take on it. 1) the biggest task was completely removing the fender liner (two of the phillips head screws to the rear of the tire DO NOT serve a function in that they screw into the plastic fender well (2007) but the molded threads in the liner to which they screw in to do not attach to anything else, nor is there any indication that they ever did. it was the same on both sides). 2) remove the turn signal bulb that's just below the front mount point from lens. (don't forget to reattach it!) 3) unsnapping the retaining clips on both ends of the strut was not difficult (a very narrow and very thin headed screw driver with a long handle is a BIG help here). once unsnapped the strut came out of both mounting points with hand strength only. 4) unclipping the retaining snaps will greatly facilitate inserting the strut mounting points. (to test how difficult it would be to attach the socket to the ball without unsnapping the retaining clip, after removing the old strut try to snap the new strut to the FRONT mounting point as a test. i did and found it practically impossible to apply enough force by hand. and this was the EASY one. and there was no way i was going to be able to or was i willing to swing a hammer in order to pound it on.) 5) attach the strut's rear mounting point first, then the front. i think i got lucky here (!!!). and that i had little difficulty either unsnapping the retaining clip, removing the socket from the ball, reattaching the socket to the ball using the new strut, or snapping on the retaining clip. 6) when attaching the front mounting point hold the door open using the removed front tire (and contrary to popular belief it is not necessary to have your offspring do it in order to have this task done properly) by leaning it against the door sill and between the door (put a towel over it to protect your door card if that concerns you). adjusting the tire forward or rearward (thus opening or closing the door more fully) until the strut's front mounting socket lines up with it's mate. i.e. the forward ball mounted on the frame of the car. note that this may take more than a few iterations, then push the socket on the ball, snap the retaining clip home and bob's your uncle. 7) don't forget to reattach the turn signal bulb 8) reattach the fender well and umpteen bolts and screws that hold it on. 9) note that those five pointed objects sticking into your back throughout the entire process are the wheel mounting studs. turning the steering wheel all the way to the left (or right perhaps) helps but does not eliminate the problem entirely. 10) oh, and yes, the door stays open like it's supposed to now. so except for the very slight superficial damage that was done to the left front wheel as it rolled away from me at one point and fell over onto it's FRONT (!) side marring a couple of spots in it's finish (silly me, i thought the 2007 standard wheels were anodized not painted (!)), i'm considering this a success. i 'm old (70) and doing one was enough for one day. i did the driver's side today and will do the passenger's side....well let's say some day in the future. :)
Thanks for watching and the eagle-eyed insights fellow wrencher! I did not notice the clip slipping back on but explains the effort I had to put in. Fender liners were by far the biggest effort on the job - I wanted to get smoked signal markers to kill two birds while in there but, alas, none could be sourced. I love the lack of noise from new gas strut and how much more reliable the doors are. Be well, sir and thanks for the thoughtful and lengthy tips. Love crowdsourcing potentially better processes.
Wow, now that's a question. Depending what you want, the 981 would tip me given precious little else to go on. Everyone should own a midengine P-car, if they have the roads and skills. If you want luxury and style, Aston. Don't buy Aston for driving dynamics and power.
D Wray's Garage I appreciate the response! I’ve owned a 986 manual and enjoyed it thoroughly, even with the limited power. The Aston’s V8 is so tempting haha. Although, a 997 is a solid 911 and the 981 overall update with interior and all that is nice to have. I’m looking to purchase one of these as a second car.
@@panthers865 if youve had your fill of midengine pleasure with the 986 I'd take an Aston over the 911. Aston is more of an occasion than a 911. You feel it when you're in it and when you look back over your shoulder having parked it. Happy hunting!
i made short order of this job, by doing all from the inside of the car, NOT going into the wheel well area. maybe no one told you how to do it that way. its very easy
A long, thin pry bar from my trim removal kit; www.amazon.com/dp/B073VH5P4X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_XTVHCDWF0JAE9KWY0FRW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. Something like this.
@@DWraysGarage Yes I saw your video but Zanick2 said he accessed both ends from inside car. I haven’t looked but I guess it’s possible. He said very easy....
@@dimmacommunication I mostly try to use my Canon M50 (kit lens) and a Ride mic. Then, for movement I have a GoPro5. The GoPro also hangs onto my card for exterior/moving shots.
You don't need to pull back the retaining clip when installing the strut, the shape of the ball will push back the clip and then it will lock when fully engaged on the ball.
Good tip, thanks.
WOW this was so easy to do. I'm not really mechanically gifted, but I was able to this with no problem! Thanks
Great video! I don’t even have an AM, but am in the market for one. Now I’m not so scared of cars with old door struts. I’m not very mechanical inclined, but I think I might could possibly DIY this
love the videos I have a 2007 vantage I need to get me a set of those lifts still jacking the car up 1 side at a time
Ive never looked back since buying the lift. I shudder when thinking of 4-cornering with Jack stands. I know it's fine but I just can't. 😆
if you look closely at 8:12 he unsnaps the retaining clip on the front mounting point and begins to pry the strut off the front ball. but when the pry bar slips off (8:22) on his first attempt to remove it, the retaining clip partially snaps back on (.8:27). from this point on he's actually prying the strut off without unclipping the retaining clip. compare clip at 8:15 (fully unclipped), 8:27 (partially reclipped) and 8:33 (fully clipped). no wonder he bent the pry bar. fortunately, he didn't bend the frame. of course, the procedure was correctly explained, it was only the execution left a little to be desired. :)
BTW, i just performed this task today and i'll add my take on it.
1) the biggest task was completely removing the fender liner (two of the phillips head screws to the rear of the tire DO NOT serve a function in that they screw into the plastic fender well (2007) but the molded threads in the liner to which they screw in to do not attach to anything else, nor is there any indication that they ever did. it was the same on both sides).
2) remove the turn signal bulb that's just below the front mount point from lens. (don't forget to reattach it!)
3) unsnapping the retaining clips on both ends of the strut was not difficult (a very narrow and very thin headed screw driver with a long handle is a BIG help here). once unsnapped the strut came out of both mounting points with hand strength only.
4) unclipping the retaining snaps will greatly facilitate inserting the strut mounting points. (to test how difficult it would be to attach the socket to the ball without unsnapping the retaining clip, after removing the old strut try to snap the new strut to the FRONT mounting point as a test. i did and found it practically impossible to apply enough force by hand. and this was the EASY one. and there was no way i was going to be able to or was i willing to swing a hammer in order to pound it on.)
5) attach the strut's rear mounting point first, then the front. i think i got lucky here (!!!). and that i had little difficulty either unsnapping the retaining clip, removing the socket from the ball, reattaching the socket to the ball using the new strut, or snapping on the retaining clip.
6) when attaching the front mounting point hold the door open using the removed front tire (and contrary to popular belief it is not necessary to have your offspring do it in order to have this task done properly) by leaning it against the door sill and between the door (put a towel over it to protect your door card if that concerns you). adjusting the tire forward or rearward (thus opening or closing the door more fully) until the strut's front mounting socket lines up with it's mate. i.e. the forward ball mounted on the frame of the car. note that this may take more than a few iterations, then push the socket on the ball, snap the retaining clip home and bob's your uncle.
7) don't forget to reattach the turn signal bulb
8) reattach the fender well and umpteen bolts and screws that hold it on.
9) note that those five pointed objects sticking into your back throughout the entire process are the wheel mounting studs. turning the steering wheel all the way to the left (or right perhaps) helps but does not eliminate the problem entirely.
10) oh, and yes, the door stays open like it's supposed to now. so except for the very slight superficial damage that was done to the left front wheel as it rolled away from me at one point and fell over onto it's FRONT (!) side marring a couple of spots in it's finish (silly me, i thought the 2007 standard wheels were anodized not painted (!)), i'm considering this a success.
i 'm old (70) and doing one was enough for one day. i did the driver's side today and will do the passenger's side....well let's say some day in the future. :)
Thanks for watching and the eagle-eyed insights fellow wrencher! I did not notice the clip slipping back on but explains the effort I had to put in. Fender liners were by far the biggest effort on the job - I wanted to get smoked signal markers to kill two birds while in there but, alas, none could be sourced. I love the lack of noise from new gas strut and how much more reliable the doors are. Be well, sir and thanks for the thoughtful and lengthy tips. Love crowdsourcing potentially better processes.
@@DWraysGarage my pleasure.
Would you recommend the Aston (six speed) or 981/997 (six speed)? I noticed these under $40k nowadays. Appreciate it!
Wow, now that's a question. Depending what you want, the 981 would tip me given precious little else to go on. Everyone should own a midengine P-car, if they have the roads and skills. If you want luxury and style, Aston. Don't buy Aston for driving dynamics and power.
D Wray's Garage I appreciate the response! I’ve owned a 986 manual and enjoyed it thoroughly, even with the limited power. The Aston’s V8 is so tempting haha. Although, a 997 is a solid 911 and the 981 overall update with interior and all that is nice to have. I’m looking to purchase one of these as a second car.
@@panthers865 you can't go far wrong with any of the choices. Second to what other car?
D Wray's Garage Honda Civic LX sedan with a five speed manual (completely stock).
@@panthers865 if youve had your fill of midengine pleasure with the 986 I'd take an Aston over the 911. Aston is more of an occasion than a 911. You feel it when you're in it and when you look back over your shoulder having parked it. Happy hunting!
i made short order of this job, by doing all from the inside of the car, NOT going into the wheel well area. maybe no one told you how to do it that way. its very easy
How did you access that strut end behind the fender? Some long thin screw driver?
A long, thin pry bar from my trim removal kit; www.amazon.com/dp/B073VH5P4X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_XTVHCDWF0JAE9KWY0FRW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. Something like this.
@@DWraysGarage Yes I saw your video but Zanick2 said he accessed both ends from inside car. I haven’t looked but I guess it’s possible. He said very easy....
@@cheerfulone8030 I see. I have not seen anyone demonstrate said 'easy' process from this angle. I am unconvinced.
Why don't you do a walkaround of it ? :)
Patience dear friend, patience! Oh, and yeah, my footage was trashed when I did it so need to to again. Will do review, sights and sounds very soon!
@@DWraysGarage Wich camera do you use to record ? :)
I am totally unaware of recording equipment
@@dimmacommunication I mostly try to use my Canon M50 (kit lens) and a Ride mic. Then, for movement I have a GoPro5. The GoPro also hangs onto my card for exterior/moving shots.
@@DWraysGarage Nice :)