Yes, it can't hurt to listen for the CCT rattling. Alex mentioned 5k and I believe he means 5,000 rpm range, not 5k miles. Even if the CCT is rattling a little it's not a big deal, but definitely use that "scary" sound to negotiate the price down. :-) Otherwise, I just like to look at the overall condition. Color of the oil, signs that it's been sitting out in the weather (oxidized metal surfaces, sun bleached plastic parts, etc.), gunk built up around gaskets that could be seeping, etc. Not a deal killer but signs of poor care. Again, you can use that to negotiate the price down. In general these are very solid bikes without a lot of weak points. I'd gladly pay a little more for one that's been garaged and well cared for though.
I didn't do anything with regards to TDC. I saw a few comments on forums about that but the factory service manual from Honda didn't mention anything about it for the procedure. I also wondered how this could be required when the CCT only maintains tension, regardless of position. The manual did say to wind the spring back before removing the old CCT. I even made the little special tool the manual recommends but there was no way to get my hand in there to wind it up. The bolts are long enough that you can back it out enough under load that it's not an issue. I just backed them out equally and, by the time the bolts released, there wasn't much tension. Just don't pull that key from the new one until it's installed!
Ideally you should, you just got lucky, on the off chance the intake cam was halfway up the lobe and you removed that tensioner, the chain could've jumped and set your cam a couple teeth off
@@apstephens97 The chain doesnt jump unless you move the bike around. I work motorcycle garage and we almost never set bikes to TDC when just replacing the CCT
Back in the day I made a silly contraption of tools and duct tape and was able to remove the 2 bolts in 2hrs of work. It took 3 more hours to get them back in. This looks way easier. Debating on if I should buy a new CCTL, or just tighten the original. If the new ones are made better, I'd rather go that route.
I never got reliable information on whether Honda improved the design of the newer CCTs (OEM replacements). If I remember right they did go through a few part numbers, so one would hope that means a better design with the latest part number. I just figure this is a routine serviceable item (kind of like a rubber timing belt on a Honda Accord) and with the procedure in the video it's actually fairly easy to just replace these every ~35K miles or so, or whenever they get a little noisy. The manually adjustable ones didn't appeal to me as they seem to be a "trial by ear" procedure, that I didn't want to have to continually mess with. I've had the one featured in the video on now for almost 4 years. The bike is now devoted to track days (converted to full race slick tires, removed the mirrors, etc.). I regularly run in the 11K-12K RPM range, sometimes bouncing off the rev limiter, all day. No problems with this OEM replacement CCT yet. When it gets noisy I'll just put another one in giving how relatively easy this procedure (in the video) is.
I did it last year without disconnecting anything. I just unscrew tank next to steering wheel and a littlebit under the seat (ohh i unscrew seat). Then i open tank like cabriolet and i connect part from steering wheel to back seat using line. That was everything. But yeah. Any vood idea to make it easier is good :) cheers!
Hi Konner, the OEM tensioner is not adjustable. The factory service manual lists it as a replacement item only. There are aftermarket adjustable ones but I didn't like the "trial by ear and hope you got it right" approach. I don't believe the OEM part was that expensive so I just went with that. If it started failing regularly though, I would have looked at the aftermarket units. After a single replacement (at ~25K miles if I remember right) it has been working fine ever since (at ~32K miles now). I believe I remember reading that Honda went through several part numbers for this item. At the time I bought the replacement, I believe they had gone through 3 or 4 part numbers that superseded the previous ones. My hope was that they fixed whatever the original issue was, but who knows... :-)
This is probably a bit late for you but the drivetrain is exactly the same between the two. There's only minor differences other than carb to efi, notably in this case the coolant reservoir is further forward on the f4 after comparing my f4i to my friend's f4.
How did you replace the new one inside? I haven’t old one out and I’m trying to replace with the new but it doesn’t quite slide in enough to tighten the bolts down? Do I need to loosen the tensioner then install it? Sort of confused I didn’t see you put it back on in the video
did you put into consideration the length of your extension bars when torqueing the bolts? your reading on the torque wrench will not be the same on the bolt. it will be less at the bolt , therefore inaccurate .
I'm thinking of buying a 2000 600F4 (carburetor model) only has 12,400 miles, anything I should think about when inspecting to make sure the CCT isn't bad? Is it just a case of listening for 'ticking' ? Or would 12,400 miles not even be enough to be worn yet? thanks very much if anyone can answer!
To answer your question. It isn’t a bad idea to set it to top dead center before doing it. But if you remove the CCT evenly and the new one has the key in it. It’s not a big deal.
Wasnt that easy unfortunately. I lifted fuel tank, removed air box, removed fuel rails. About 15min job. Got the original out no problem However original gasket didnt come away clean. lot of faffing about trying to remove the old gasket which was stuck to the frame so needed cleaning off. Hands were too big to get in there properly so Stanly blade stuck to a thin pole and about 2 hours labore. I installed a manual one, hands to big to get the bolts in so had to get the wife to install it.. Wouldn't have been to bad if the original gasket came away clean.. Even if you manage to do it this way, if the original gasket is one with the block then you are going to have to go in through the top. I also didnt bother with top dead centre i just gently removed the old one and replaced with a manual one. Not a job i want to do again really! Also adding that mine went at 34k miles and lasted 21 years. I found mine was present from around 3k rpm, but i really didn't want to do this job so it got quite bad until i finally decided to rectify the issue. Normally i like working on bikes, this however had me utilise every swear word known to man.
Yes, it can't hurt to listen for the CCT rattling. Alex mentioned 5k and I believe he means 5,000 rpm range, not 5k miles. Even if the CCT is rattling a little it's not a big deal, but definitely use that "scary" sound to negotiate the price down. :-)
Otherwise, I just like to look at the overall condition. Color of the oil, signs that it's been sitting out in the weather (oxidized metal surfaces, sun bleached plastic parts, etc.), gunk built up around gaskets that could be seeping, etc. Not a deal killer but signs of poor care. Again, you can use that to negotiate the price down. In general these are very solid bikes without a lot of weak points. I'd gladly pay a little more for one that's been garaged and well cared for though.
I didn't do anything with regards to TDC. I saw a few comments on forums about that but the factory service manual from Honda didn't mention anything about it for the procedure. I also wondered how this could be required when the CCT only maintains tension, regardless of position. The manual did say to wind the spring back before removing the old CCT. I even made the little special tool the manual recommends but there was no way to get my hand in there to wind it up. The bolts are long enough that you can back it out enough under load that it's not an issue. I just backed them out equally and, by the time the bolts released, there wasn't much tension. Just don't pull that key from the new one until it's installed!
so i pulled the key from the one i got as soon as i got it what should i do lol?
Dzenis Alickovic stick a skinny flathead screwdriver in, wind it back out.
Ideally you should, you just got lucky, on the off chance the intake cam was halfway up the lobe and you removed that tensioner, the chain could've jumped and set your cam a couple teeth off
@@apstephens97 The chain doesnt jump unless you move the bike around. I work motorcycle garage and we almost never set bikes to TDC when just replacing the CCT
Thanks for this useful tip. I've been looking for easier access to the cctl on my f4i.
Back in the day I made a silly contraption of tools and duct tape and was able to remove the 2 bolts in 2hrs of work. It took 3 more hours to get them back in. This looks way easier. Debating on if I should buy a new CCTL, or just tighten the original. If the new ones are made better, I'd rather go that route.
I never got reliable information on whether Honda improved the design of the newer CCTs (OEM replacements). If I remember right they did go through a few part numbers, so one would hope that means a better design with the latest part number. I just figure this is a routine serviceable item (kind of like a rubber timing belt on a Honda Accord) and with the procedure in the video it's actually fairly easy to just replace these every ~35K miles or so, or whenever they get a little noisy. The manually adjustable ones didn't appeal to me as they seem to be a "trial by ear" procedure, that I didn't want to have to continually mess with.
I've had the one featured in the video on now for almost 4 years. The bike is now devoted to track days (converted to full race slick tires, removed the mirrors, etc.). I regularly run in the 11K-12K RPM range, sometimes bouncing off the rev limiter, all day. No problems with this OEM replacement CCT yet. When it gets noisy I'll just put another one in giving how relatively easy this procedure (in the video) is.
Thank you for this
My f4i needs a new one I started hearing the sound. Should I get it replaced right away or should it be okay to run for a while with the rattly sound
I did it last year without disconnecting anything. I just unscrew tank next to steering wheel and a littlebit under the seat (ohh i unscrew seat). Then i open tank like cabriolet and i connect part from steering wheel to back seat using line. That was everything.
But yeah. Any vood idea to make it easier is good :) cheers!
Is the original tensioner adjustable or do you have to replace it when it comes loose?
Hi Konner, the OEM tensioner is not adjustable. The factory service manual lists it as a replacement item only. There are aftermarket adjustable ones but I didn't like the "trial by ear and hope you got it right" approach. I don't believe the OEM part was that expensive so I just went with that.
If it started failing regularly though, I would have looked at the aftermarket units. After a single replacement (at ~25K miles if I remember right) it has been working fine ever since (at ~32K miles now).
I believe I remember reading that Honda went through several part numbers for this item. At the time I bought the replacement, I believe they had gone through 3 or 4 part numbers that superseded the previous ones. My hope was that they fixed whatever the original issue was, but who knows... :-)
@@btd-cf2000 where did you buy the tensioner?
Where did you buy the newer revised CCT?
Good morning, can you tell if the chain tensioner on the cbr600 f4i control is the same as the cbr600 f4?
This is probably a bit late for you but the drivetrain is exactly the same between the two. There's only minor differences other than carb to efi, notably in this case the coolant reservoir is further forward on the f4 after comparing my f4i to my friend's f4.
How did you replace the new one inside? I haven’t old one out and I’m trying to replace with the new but it doesn’t quite slide in enough to tighten the bolts down? Do I need to loosen the tensioner then install it? Sort of confused I didn’t see you put it back on in the video
Okay never mind my friend with messing with the old one I figured out how to loosen the arm on the tensioner and pull it in with the screw in the end
did you put into consideration the length of your extension bars when torqueing the bolts? your reading on the torque wrench will not be the same on the bolt. it will be less at the bolt , therefore inaccurate .
How did u get it out after you take screws off and how did u get the new one in ? With that little space
I'm thinking of buying a 2000 600F4 (carburetor model) only has 12,400 miles, anything I should think about when inspecting to make sure the CCT isn't bad? Is it just a case of listening for 'ticking' ? Or would 12,400 miles not even be enough to be worn yet? thanks very much if anyone can answer!
listen for rattling around 5k
Mines got 11k on it (1999 F4) and its rattling already
How did it take to replace this?
But don't you gotta open the crank and align it before removing cct?
To answer your question. It isn’t a bad idea to set it to top dead center before doing it. But if you remove the CCT evenly and the new one has the key in it. It’s not a big deal.
Wasnt that easy unfortunately.
I lifted fuel tank, removed air box, removed fuel rails. About 15min job.
Got the original out no problem
However original gasket didnt come away clean. lot of faffing about trying to remove the old gasket which was stuck to the frame so needed cleaning off. Hands were too big to get in there properly so Stanly blade stuck to a thin pole and about 2 hours labore.
I installed a manual one, hands to big to get the bolts in so had to get the wife to install it..
Wouldn't have been to bad if the original gasket came away clean..
Even if you manage to do it this way, if the original gasket is one with the block then you are going to have to go in through the top.
I also didnt bother with top dead centre i just gently removed the old one and replaced with a manual one.
Not a job i want to do again really!
Also adding that mine went at 34k miles and lasted 21 years. I found mine was present from around 3k rpm, but i really didn't want to do this job so it got quite bad until i finally decided to rectify the issue.
Normally i like working on bikes, this however had me utilise every swear word known to man.
Unscrew it is not a problem. Just pull him out so he does not fall deeper and then back up again. : /
Super,bombastic,Fantastic, Školastic!!!!!!👍🤝👏👌🤘😍🏍️💓😇🙏🧠🐬
How the hell did you get it back in Jesus