OMG! OMG! OMG! THANK YOU!!!! For posting this, this is a GOD send for sure! I been on a retro kick lately, watching tutorials on TH-cam on how to restore my childhood Kenner vintage X-Wing, which I'm in the process of doing about to start the retro brightening part after it finished drying in the garage. I came across you video in my recommendation feed and gave it watch, and the HEAVEN'S OPENED!!! I can finally repair my R2-D2 which has been inside my Darth Vader Collector's case along with my other droids, can this process also be applied to my C-3P0, and Death Star Driod aswell??? Anyway THXZZZ!!!! I hope to start on R2 after I finish my X-Wing now that I have a starting point to go from. What brand of chrome paint marker do you use???
Hi Charles! Thank you very much for the kind words... they are very much appreciated. I would approach C-3P0 and the Death Star Droid a bit differently, b/c of joints. They will hopefully be a future video at some point. For the chrome pens, I used Molotow. Please do us a favor and let us know how your restoration goes, here in the comments. We would love to know! Thanks again... :)
Of all the tutorials I've seen, yours is by far the most entertaining, thorough and interesting of them all. Although I don't have vintage figures, I love the hard work you put on this. Thanks for sharing and great work!
Very impressed with the chrome painting. I'm in Tokyo so the Molotow Chrome Pen is too pricey for me but I'm looking into Mr Hobby Super Mirror Chrome Paint it's around $15 here in Tokyo. Might be a cheaper option for you too since you use your Airbrush so often! Great Job Man Seriously!
Thank you! I can get the Molotow Chrome Pen set of 3 for around $22. I've never used the Mr. Hobby Super Mirror Chrome Paint, let me know if it works out. Another reason why I use Molotow is that it works w/ the Alclad top coat. In my last video, I used Green Stuff World chrome & it sprays better than the Molotow, but it doesn't work w/ the Alclad, so I tried the floor finish and that worked instead.
@@MisterBobot Gotcha! So it has to do with your top coat interlacing with the chrome. I wonder if I'll have that problem with the Mr Hobby chrome mirror...? Anyways Great Job Man I mean it! It looked close to brand new! Waiting on new videos in the meantime I'll try to catch up before then!
@@decepticonzerora Yep, the Alclad lacquer is the only one I could find that barely reduced the mirror reflectiveness of the chrome paint. If you are planning on top coating your chrome paint, then may may have to experiment w/ different types of coatings... even floor finishes. I got a G1 Jet Fire restoration on the way... :)
Nicely done! What a difference! Do you ever find if you leave the Molotow to dry slightly and then go over it or near it again , the chrome dulls immediately? I was wondering if that was going to happen on the dome but you've definitely mastered how to use those Molotow pens 👍
Thanks VTR! :) As you use Molotow you learn a lot along the way. I did everything I could to avoid the streaks or any dulling. Oddly enough, using a paint shaker / mixer machine really helped. I used it before every use. These paint have extremely small reflective "flakes" in them that need to be mixed thoroughly for best results. I original airbrushed the chrome on and hand painted the blue, but it just didn't look that great, so I tried this method. Thanks for watching VTR, I really appreciate it and thanks for the comment! :)
@@MisterBobot Ah yes, that little shaker machine is neat - might have to find one of those!! The dome turned out really well - was there a reason for not airbrushing both chrome and blue?
@@VintageToyRush I wanted to airbrush the blue on to the chromed details b/c brushing it looked horrible. The only option left after airbrushing the blue was to use the chrome pens b/c if I had used the airbrush I would have had to block the details off w/ tape or something similar and that would be very difficult to keep all those lines clean. < Hope that makes sense... 🙃
This little guy took some time... the painting was a bit tricky. :) Hope you all enjoy this restoration! Please feel free to leave a comment. Thanks! :) UPDATE: I'm just now realizing I left out the video of me painting the small eye parts on the front, the red and blue dots. I used a small amount of a basic red and blue color and applied it with a very fine tipped paint brush. 0:00 Introduction 0:57 Step Two R2D2 Disassemble & Basic Clean 1:37 Step Three Sticker Residue & Rust Removal 2:19 Step Four Plastic Whitening/De-Yellowing 3:10 Step Five Whitening Results & Leg Joint Tightening 4:54 Step Six Applying New Reproduction R202 Sticker 5:33 Step Seven Original Chrome & Paint Removal 6:10 Step Nine Preparing Figure For Painting 7:11 Step Ten: Painting Part 1: Applying First Layer of Chrome Paint w/ Molotow Paint Markers, 2mm Nib 8:01 Step Ten: Painting, Cont. Part 2: Applying Transparent Blue Paint w/ Airbrush in Thin Layers 9:59 Step Eleven Attaching Head & Continuing the Painting Process 10:40 Step Twelve Chrome Outlining of Details w/?mm Paint Pen 12:12 Step Thirteen Applying Chrome Paint to Mid-Section of the Head w/4mm Paint Pen 13:02 Step Fourteen Apply a clear Topcoat Lacquer to the Painted Areas
@@MisterBobot yeh I agree, what I meant was - how did they apply the blue translucent paint on a mass produced level. I've always thought they may have had a mask of some description but I'd love to know. I very much liked your method of just chroming the blue areas first. I chromed the whole thing then tried to paint the blue by hand. It wasn't the best
@@davidkerr4137 Oh, I'm not sure. My guess is some time of automated paint stamp as it travels down the conveyer belt. I did the same thing as you at first, chromed the whole thing, then tried to paint the blue by hand, and I wasn't pleased w/ it due to my lack of painting skills. So I developed this method instead. I'm glad you enjoyed it and thank you very much for watching... :)
When I first started using Molotow I did a lot of tests. Even after letting the paint dry for a month, it would still rub off eventually. That's why I use the topcoat.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 78 | คู่เอก "ปกรณ์ vs ฟาบิโอ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LSOmgl0Th2c/mqdefault.jpg)
OMG! OMG! OMG! THANK YOU!!!! For posting this, this is a GOD send for sure! I been on a retro kick lately, watching tutorials on TH-cam on how to restore my childhood Kenner vintage X-Wing, which I'm in the process of doing about to start the retro brightening part after it finished drying in the garage. I came across you video in my recommendation feed and gave it watch, and the HEAVEN'S OPENED!!! I can finally repair my R2-D2 which has been inside my Darth Vader Collector's case along with my other droids, can this process also be applied to my C-3P0, and Death Star Driod aswell??? Anyway THXZZZ!!!! I hope to start on R2 after I finish my X-Wing now that I have a starting point to go from. What brand of chrome paint marker do you use???
Hi Charles! Thank you very much for the kind words... they are very much appreciated. I would approach C-3P0 and the Death Star Droid a bit differently, b/c of joints. They will hopefully be a future video at some point. For the chrome pens, I used Molotow. Please do us a favor and let us know how your restoration goes, here in the comments. We would love to know! Thanks again... :)
Of all the tutorials I've seen, yours is by far the most entertaining, thorough and interesting of them all. Although I don't have vintage figures, I love the hard work you put on this. Thanks for sharing and great work!
Thank you! I appreciate that. 😁
Amazing work on the chrome👍
Thank you very much! :)
You deserve more views and subscribers, I love yours videos
Thank you, I appreciate that! :)
Not too shabby at all well done mike
Thank you! I appreciate the watch and comment... :) "Cheers"!
Such a great job and video I just subbed 👍
Thanks for watching and the sub! :)
OMG R2D2 looks ENTIRELY different (the before and after shots) Another great restoration!
Thank you! It was a lot harder than it looks, but worth it... :)
@@MisterBobot The final showing proves it was definitely worth it.
@@MisterBobot Did a great job. Proud of you my friend.
Absolutely fantastic result, totally worth the effort Mike
Thanks Simon! I really appreciate it. It was challenging, but fun. :)
"You eat salads?" "I have to watch my weight" HAHA! Oh that Bobot. ;)
That Mr. Bobot... acting "goofy"... :)
@@MisterBobot He's being goofy again. xD
Very impressed with the chrome painting. I'm in Tokyo so the Molotow Chrome Pen is too pricey for me but I'm looking into Mr Hobby Super Mirror Chrome Paint it's around $15 here in Tokyo. Might be a cheaper option for you too since you use your Airbrush so often! Great Job Man Seriously!
Thank you! I can get the Molotow Chrome Pen set of 3 for around $22. I've never used the Mr. Hobby Super Mirror Chrome Paint, let me know if it works out. Another reason why I use Molotow is that it works w/ the Alclad top coat. In my last video, I used Green Stuff World chrome & it sprays better than the Molotow, but it doesn't work w/ the Alclad, so I tried the floor finish and that worked instead.
@@MisterBobot Gotcha! So it has to do with your top coat interlacing with the chrome. I wonder if I'll have that problem with the Mr Hobby chrome mirror...? Anyways Great Job Man I mean it! It looked close to brand new! Waiting on new videos in the meantime I'll try to catch up before then!
@@decepticonzerora Yep, the Alclad lacquer is the only one I could find that barely reduced the mirror reflectiveness of the chrome paint. If you are planning on top coating your chrome paint, then may may have to experiment w/ different types of coatings... even floor finishes. I got a G1 Jet Fire restoration on the way... :)
Nicely done! What a difference! Do you ever find if you leave the Molotow to dry slightly and then go over it or near it again , the chrome dulls immediately? I was wondering if that was going to happen on the dome but you've definitely mastered how to use those Molotow pens 👍
Thanks VTR! :) As you use Molotow you learn a lot along the way. I did everything I could to avoid the streaks or any dulling. Oddly enough, using a paint shaker / mixer machine really helped. I used it before every use. These paint have extremely small reflective "flakes" in them that need to be mixed thoroughly for best results. I original airbrushed the chrome on and hand painted the blue, but it just didn't look that great, so I tried this method. Thanks for watching VTR, I really appreciate it and thanks for the comment! :)
@@MisterBobot Ah yes, that little shaker machine is neat - might have to find one of those!! The dome turned out really well - was there a reason for not airbrushing both chrome and blue?
@@VintageToyRush I wanted to airbrush the blue on to the chromed details b/c brushing it looked horrible. The only option left after airbrushing the blue was to use the chrome pens b/c if I had used the airbrush I would have had to block the details off w/ tape or something similar and that would be very difficult to keep all those lines clean. < Hope that makes sense... 🙃
Another awesome video! This channel is definitely a hidden gem. You deserve more views and subscribers! Cool music too! Lol
Thank you Art! I really appreciate the comment and the view. I'm glad you like the channel... please "get the word out" for me. ;) :) Thanks!
YES he and mr Bobot do deserve more! They're so awesome. Their work is fantastic.
This little guy took some time... the painting was a bit tricky. :) Hope you all enjoy this restoration! Please feel free to leave a comment. Thanks! :) UPDATE: I'm just now realizing I left out the video of me painting the small eye parts on the front, the red and blue dots. I used a small amount of a basic red and blue color and applied it with a very fine tipped paint brush.
0:00 Introduction
0:57 Step Two R2D2 Disassemble & Basic Clean
1:37 Step Three Sticker Residue & Rust Removal
2:19 Step Four Plastic Whitening/De-Yellowing
3:10 Step Five Whitening Results & Leg Joint Tightening
4:54 Step Six Applying New Reproduction R202 Sticker
5:33 Step Seven Original Chrome & Paint Removal
6:10 Step Nine Preparing Figure For Painting
7:11 Step Ten: Painting Part 1: Applying First Layer of Chrome Paint w/ Molotow Paint Markers, 2mm Nib
8:01 Step Ten: Painting, Cont. Part 2: Applying Transparent Blue Paint w/ Airbrush in Thin Layers
9:59 Step Eleven Attaching Head & Continuing the Painting Process
10:40 Step Twelve Chrome Outlining of Details w/?mm Paint Pen
12:12 Step Thirteen Applying Chrome Paint to Mid-Section of the Head w/4mm Paint Pen
13:02 Step Fourteen Apply a clear Topcoat Lacquer to the Painted Areas
What did you use for the red paint cause the only thing that I need and I don’t know which paint to use
Hi, thanks for watching and leaving a comment! I used a basic red color by Createx paints. Createx Airbrush Paint, Opaque Red, 2 Oz (5210-02)
Any idea how the original dome paint job was done, I've always wondered?
I don't think the original chrome was paint but rather vacuum sealed aluminum over the plastic. Then they painted the blue details on top of that.
@@MisterBobot yeh I agree, what I meant was - how did they apply the blue translucent paint on a mass produced level. I've always thought they may have had a mask of some description but I'd love to know. I very much liked your method of just chroming the blue areas first. I chromed the whole thing then tried to paint the blue by hand. It wasn't the best
@@davidkerr4137 Oh, I'm not sure. My guess is some time of automated paint stamp as it travels down the conveyer belt. I did the same thing as you at first, chromed the whole thing, then tried to paint the blue by hand, and I wasn't pleased w/ it due to my lack of painting skills. So I developed this method instead. I'm glad you enjoyed it and thank you very much for watching... :)
Would you be able to do a video fixing my R2-D2 please
Please email me to discuss... mr.bobot01@gmail.com
What’s the vibrating machine at 8:04 called?
Thanx
It's called: HUBEST Model Paints Nail Lacquer Shaker Shaking Machine - it's on Amazon.
One month to cure the Molotow!!??
When I first started using Molotow I did a lot of tests. Even after letting the paint dry for a month, it would still rub off eventually. That's why I use the topcoat.