Thanks for the instructional video. My girlfriends Audi needs the rear pads replaced. The dealer told her about some "special screw the had to order" had me confused for a minute until I saw your video. I imagine the screw they were talking about was a screw clamp like you used. I have plenty of C-Clamps that should do the job of compressing the caliper piston. Thanks !!
In the event the callipers are seized, and we will be replacing those as well, is the step where you turn the piston in necessary? Haven’t found a video outlining the full brake job yet! Any insight appreciated and thank you for this easy to follow video!
AWESOME and I was going to add about opening the reservoir when pushing back the caliper, but I see you noted it in the above comment. This was awesome once again and is there something that we could use to remove the rust from the brake pad housing?
Make sure you have a new, and sharp Allen wrench, and then tap it into the head of the bolt (with a hammer) till it bottoms out. Then hold the head of the ratchet, so that Allen stays square to the head of the bolt. I have rarely striped one of them. Use Never Seize on the threads of the bolt. As far as dust deposits, there is not much you can do, other than trying different types of brake pads. Thanks for watching. =)
Great video, but you make those 8mm carrier bolts look so easy. I stripped mine even after putting some liquid wrench on them, so I ended up calling my mechanic who ended up drilling them out. Is there a trick or suggestion to avoiding seized bolts? And is there a way to avoid huge dust deposits?
looks very straight forward. I had issues with one seized pin in mine the last time and it nearly broke my heart getting it out. I gather its identical on a Audi A4 b5 Avant diesel..? not ABS ring on the inside of the disc in the rear ?
someone said these cars need special equipment to change the pads from my experience every cars brakes are very similar and only need a socket to remove them.
Yep, the 'Haynes' manuals are not very good! If you want a really good manual, spend the money on 'Bentley,...I,m glad the video helped you, and thank you for commenting...=)
Really good video thanks. Though I think my caliper is seized as the piston will not spin at all so I cant re-wind it back into the caliper, even with the correct tool. I thought it might be due to the handbrake so released the handbrake, still no luck, do I need to slacken the handbrake mech at the caliper to be able to re-wind the piston or 'should' it wind back without touching anything else?
+Johnny Bean mine its a 2006 B7 Quattro and its a bit different, the suspension on the rear are coils and shocks separated, and its really hard to access the lower caliper bolt due to this set up, and the pads are a bit different too.
great info, had to buy a wind back kit while doing this, but very good advice, imi getting a little sponginess in my pedal now, is that normal for bedding in ? my discs are pretty good, maybe a 2mm lip at the edge
Thanks for this video. Really informative. What year is the A4? I have 2004 would it be similar to the car you are working on. Congrats again on the wonderful video.
Thnx for d video. Id like to know the brand of brake pads you use with the noise resistant backing,and where can i purchase the off-set ratchet wrench you used?
I think you're saying, ? The bolt head is rounded out? The bolt is 8mm Allen Head, and they are prone to striping out, or rounding out at the head. You can remove them, or loosen them with an air chisel, or you can use an external easy out socket. The other tool you can use is, self locking Channel Locks...I hope this helps? Good luck...=)
I have a 2002 audi that was actually made in 2001. i need to know what size and type of socket did u use to remove the bolts that holds the rotor on. I ran into 3 mechanic who could not change my rotors due to that bolt being bonded onto the car.
I have an Audi Quattro and during my inspection my mechanic said my rear guide pins were seized on both sides. I pulled them apart yesterday and my guide pins are fine. Wheel turns without issues, even brake pad wear, and nothing sticks out they are stuck other than I can't wiggle the caliper like I can on my other car. I've never really had issues with my mechanic before, so I was wondering if there is something go on that might have made them think this?
So then, some one is trying to screw you! Just my opinion. It sounds like nothing is wrong to me with your brakes. Just my opinion. Baced, on what you said.
I agree if using your tool which also puts pressure on the piston while turning it ... That must help to push fluid back...I didnt have the tool you used.. I used the die that attaches to a rachet... All it did was spin the piston....After I cracked open the bleeder the piston finally went in
Just got rear brakes on my Audi 2006 A6 Quatro. The pad warning light will not go off. I still have about 50% pads on my front brakes. The mechanic told me there are no sensor on the rear brakes and can't undertand why the light comes on and off. Any ideas? Thank.
hey what was that wrench upu ised to remove the allen bolts...i had to put everything back because it was literally impossible to use just an allen key or a socket wrench. thanks
I used a offset ratchet, aka, a flex head ratchet, with a Allen socket 8mm. This is not the one I used, but this is what they look like.....www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14967-8-Inch-13-Inch-Ratchet/dp/B00OHSRRA2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472944205&sr=8-2&keywords=offset+ratchet
There is no need to open a bleeder, the brake fluid, just returns to the master cylinder Reservoir...opening a bleeder accomplishes nothing. But removing the cap on the Reservior, wouldn't be a bad idea...when you are screwing a piston back. Thanks for commenting. =)
My e brake spring thing, whatever it's called, doesn't compress on the one side but does on the other. What's the cause of this? Froze up cable on one side?
cameron heagle If I'm understanding your question? It sounds to me like the e brake cam is frozen in the caliper. PB Blaster will not help you, it sounds like you need a new caliper?...
VTSPQR think that's the route I'm going to have to take, I don't have amthe decompressing tool but tried using needle nose pliers to rotate the piston into the caliper and doesn't seem like its going in.. any ideas on how else to get it in? Or where to get a tool?
cameron heagle This is where you can buy a caliper wined back tool. I hope that helps? They are not expensive... www.richtoolsystems.com/product.asp?itemid=359&gclid=CjwKEAiA68WnBRCJxZr5qoaL3iMSJAAXIrr31fuGuTSf7xrBH81FHF9FoINMSrfNIg_AzCumzSHnnhoCMNrw_wcB
The wires that go from the chassis down to the sensors, 'brake inside the sheathing'. The best way to test for this problem is to; Unplug the wires going down to the sensor, and then connect the two wires to a volt meter, or a test light, and then turn the ignition switch on. If you don't have 12v, or light...then one or two of the wires are broken.
First, great video. I have a 2011 A4 with Quattro rear brake calipers, I'm want to do it myself, but the Audi dealer tell me that I need a "special" tool to compressed the pistons and another "special" tool to deactivate the calipers. I'm not sure what they mean by that. Also how much the tool you used to compressed the piston cost you. They told me a tool would cost me nearl 1k dollars. Insane. I'm thinking of using a wrench to close the piston if nothing else works. Will I damaged it doing it this way. Thank you. Keep up the great work. Also liked the useful tip on how to hold up the rotor. Thanks. From Dallas Texas.
+Fernando Rodriguez All you need is a $ 30 tool....here is a link....www.amazon.com/21pcs-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Piston/dp/B00RT86QPY/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453250233&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=calper+wined+back+tool
+Fernando Rodriguez if you have EPB, yes, you need a special tool which is an computer connected to the OBD port that electronically actuates the Electronic parking brake (EPB) in order to push the brake piston back so you can remove the pads and replace the rotor, if you do it by hand, you would probably damage the system. If you don't have EPB, then doing it by hand is the way to go.
+Nacho Miranda yes, you are so right. I did more research and that exactly what they told me. I seen a video about it to. Only the dealership has this tool. Thank you.
@rickyeguizabal All the Quattros are more or less the same, but on a front wheel drive car, the rotors & hub are different. Generic rotors $20/each, and pads $25 to $35/for a set of four.
Hello sir. Your videos must have been a great help. Have some video that I can view, how to change the oil tube steering? I need of the Audi 80 of my father :)
It is called a caliper wined back tool, it works on American, European, Japanese, and many other cars. It is sold as a kit. The cost for this kit, is about $35 USD. I hope that helped?
The best method of removing the rust is, glass beading, but if you don't have access to this, you can use a triangular deburing tool...it will work in a pinch. Thanks for watching, and commenting...=)
hey buddy thanks for the video, it helps alot! Do I need to crack the bleeder nipples on any of the calipers when I compress the piston in??? Thanks for your help.
+Chris Watson I honestly have never received rear pads with a bag of smaller clips!? It might be a packaging mistake, or they sent you the wrong pads? sorry I don't have a answer for you on that question. If the pads are the same, use them, and through out the smaller clips.
+VTSPQR hey buddy last question im gonna ask, don't wanna bug you but im doing a brake job from hell. well I did 3 sides of my car no problem but on the last one (rear passenger side) the bottom 8Mm bolt on the pad carrier is stripped bad. I tryed heating it and I don't have enough room to drill it out so I was wondering if you had any suggestions? Im at a loss as to what to do, I was thinking maybe try a nut splitter to grab onto it? just wondering what your expert oppinion might be, I appreciate all your help taking the time to answer my questions, thanks alot!
+Chris Watson The easiest way is to use this tool. Here is a link for the tool. It is basically a easy out socket, and they work great! Good luck...=) www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-394001_0__?k_clickID=923d9302-e704-416d-ba9d-969adfd1d792&store_code=1913&productId=50146292&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=[com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.Loca
Thank you for the tip on disconnecting the swaybar link. Was racking my brain on how to work around it.
Thanks for the instructional video. My girlfriends Audi needs the rear pads replaced. The dealer told her about some "special screw the had to order" had me confused for a minute until I saw your video. I imagine the screw they were talking about was a screw clamp like you used. I have plenty of C-Clamps that should do the job of compressing the caliper piston. Thanks !!
Ah, I didn't plan on cleaning the sides of the caliper carrier. That's definitely one reason my pads are wearing unevenly. Very helpful, thank you!
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video! These kinds of videos make it possible for me to own my 1998 Audi A4 Quattro.
I'm glad you enjoyed it, and thank you for commenting...=)
excellent video my friend,you explained it in a way i could understand.new discs and pads allround next week save myself some brass thanks.
I like how you get those carrier bolts out no problem. Mine are welded on there and i can't get them off.
In the event the callipers are seized, and we will be replacing those as well, is the step where you turn the piston in necessary? Haven’t found a video outlining the full brake job yet! Any insight appreciated and thank you for this easy to follow video!
You make it look so easy man... :-) I know it would take me 3-10 times longer... --- and that's after watching this VERY informative vid...
Thanks for the video, I was worried the rotors would be hard but it looks simple enough!
Thanks for putting the video together, great job, covered all the steps
AWESOME and I was going to add about opening the reservoir when pushing back the caliper, but I see you noted it in the above comment. This was awesome once again and is there something that we could use to remove the rust from the brake pad housing?
An excellent tutorial. Thanks! You shared some tips that I did not see in other break job videos.
Make sure you have a new, and sharp Allen wrench, and then tap it into the head of the bolt (with a hammer) till it bottoms out. Then hold the head of the ratchet, so that Allen stays square to the head of the bolt. I have rarely striped one of them.
Use Never Seize on the threads of the bolt. As far as dust deposits, there is not much you can do, other than trying different types of brake pads.
Thanks for watching. =)
Thank you for your video. I'll be doing my own pads and discs for the first time ever soon and it was good to see how it should be done.
Great video, but you make those 8mm carrier bolts look so easy.
I stripped mine even after putting some liquid wrench on them, so I ended up calling my mechanic who ended up drilling them out.
Is there a trick or suggestion to avoiding seized bolts? And is there a way to avoid huge dust deposits?
I'm glad I live in south VA. We don't have that rust problem. I don't think I could work on cars if they were all rusted like that.
looks very straight forward. I had issues with one seized pin in mine the last time and it nearly broke my heart getting it out. I gather its identical on a Audi A4 b5 Avant diesel..? not ABS ring on the inside of the disc in the rear ?
someone said these cars need special equipment to change the pads from my experience every cars brakes are very similar and only need a socket to remove them.
Thank You for making this video. I've learned how to change the pads and disc. I'll be saving few pounds.
When would you need to make adjustments to the e-brake cable? Thanks for the video very helpful.
The only time you would need to adjust the e-brake cables is when they are newly installed.
For the carrier couldnt you loosen one bolt and take one out and just turn it away from rotor?
thanks very much for the help! the haynes manual for this car is a joke. Saved me a lot of difficult labor! appreciate it!
Yep, the 'Haynes' manuals are not very good! If you want a really good manual, spend the money on 'Bentley,...I,m glad the video helped you, and thank you for commenting...=)
I was actually wondering how many times you actually used the word "actually" I lost count... LOL, great video thx.
This was exactly what I needed!! Very helpful indeed. Thank you!
Great video. I'm planning this job for the weekend and this has been a huge help. As I'm only changing the pads do i need to remove the drop link?
No...,you only need to do that if you remove the caliper carrier.
thanks for making this video very clear instruction you saved us a fortune
You mentioned this was a 2000 is this job going to be similar on a 2007. Going to do it this morning
Thank you for making this video! It just made it that much easier.
My 2001 a4 has a weird sound like something is stuck in the tire, I checked nothing is there do you think it could be the breaks ?
Really good video thanks. Though I think my caliper is seized as the piston will not spin at all so I cant re-wind it back into the caliper, even with the correct tool.
I thought it might be due to the handbrake so released the handbrake, still no luck, do I need to slacken the handbrake mech at the caliper to be able to re-wind the piston or 'should' it wind back without touching anything else?
Nicely done!! What year on this A4 brake job? I have a B6 2005 A4. Generally, any much difference on the rear brake replacement setup?
+Johnny Bean If your car is a Quattro, it is exactly the same. I don't remember what year the car was.
Yes it is quattro. Thanks for the tip. Any videos on the front brakes replacement, A4?
+Johnny Bean mine its a 2006 B7 Quattro and its a bit different, the suspension on the rear are coils and shocks separated, and its really hard to access the lower caliper bolt due to this set up, and the pads are a bit different too.
great info, had to buy a wind back kit while doing this, but very good advice, imi getting a little sponginess in my pedal now, is that normal for bedding in ? my discs are pretty good, maybe a 2mm lip at the edge
If you didn't put new discs on, that is why there is sponginess in the pedal. eventually when the pads bed in the sponginess will go away.
Thanks for this video. Really informative. What year is the A4? I have 2004 would it be similar to the car you are working on. Congrats again on the wonderful video.
I think it was a 1998? But your car is the same, they didn't change anything.
Thnx for d video. Id like to know the brand of brake pads you use with the noise resistant backing,and where can i purchase the off-set ratchet wrench you used?
I think you're saying, ? The bolt head is rounded out? The bolt is 8mm Allen Head, and they are prone to striping out, or rounding out at the head. You can remove them, or loosen them with an air chisel, or you can use an external easy out socket. The other tool you can use is, self locking Channel Locks...I hope this helps? Good luck...=)
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful, do you have a video replacing a wheel bearing? And drive axle? ..... Again thank you.
Tanks for your video. It helps me to fix my Audi Quattro 2007 2.0TDI. I have read Hayens book but your video where better. .
I actually did this with a C-Clamp using the old pad on the inside to protect the boot. Just need to be Careful but shouldn't be a problem!
Great video. I also watched the front control arm video. I am fixing to save some money with the help of your videos. Thanks,
I have a 2002 audi that was actually made in 2001. i need to know what size and type of socket did u use to remove the bolts that holds the rotor on. I ran into 3 mechanic who could not change my rotors due to that bolt being bonded onto the car.
Very well done sir. Thanks a bunch for sharing your really valuable knowledge!
I have an Audi Quattro and during my inspection my mechanic said my rear guide pins were seized on both sides. I pulled them apart yesterday and my guide pins are fine. Wheel turns without issues, even brake pad wear, and nothing sticks out they are stuck other than I can't wiggle the caliper like I can on my other car. I've never really had issues with my mechanic before, so I was wondering if there is something go on that might have made them think this?
So then, some one is trying to screw you! Just my opinion. It sounds like nothing is wrong to me with your brakes.
Just my opinion. Baced, on what you said.
Nice video I just had a lesson learn from your video... Thanks dude
Made my day a lot easier....Thanks for the video
I'm glad it helped, and thanks for commenting...=)
Thank Man You Saved Alot Of Headaches Thank You For Making That Video I really appreciated
I agree if using your tool which also puts pressure on the piston while turning it ... That must help to push fluid back...I didnt have the tool you used.. I used the die that attaches to a rachet... All it did was spin the piston....After I cracked open the bleeder the piston finally went in
Just got rear brakes on my Audi 2006 A6 Quatro. The pad warning light will not go off. I still have about 50% pads on my front brakes. The mechanic told me there are no sensor on the rear brakes and can't undertand why the light comes on and off. Any ideas? Thank.
God video! Better than the others here, thank you for uploading this!
Thank you!
Waoooo My respects for you SR.... How easy and simple you explained for us.... Thank you once again.....
Thanks...I'm glad you enjoyed it.
Awesome video. Very informative.
Thank you
Thanks for the video... makes it a lot easier!
I'm glad it helped, and thanks for watching.
I am going to try this out. Thank you for the good video !
I'm glad I could help...=)
hey what was that wrench upu ised to remove the allen bolts...i had to put everything back because it was literally impossible to use just an allen key or a socket wrench. thanks
I used a offset ratchet, aka, a flex head ratchet, with a Allen socket 8mm.
This is not the one I used, but this is what they look like.....www.amazon.com/TEKTON-14967-8-Inch-13-Inch-Ratchet/dp/B00OHSRRA2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472944205&sr=8-2&keywords=offset+ratchet
HI did the piston in the caliper actually have to be "screwed" back in to the caliper or just pressed as with channel locks or a clamp? Thanks.
It has to be screwed in.
Thanks
book says to replace self locking bolt. do I really need to?
There is no need to open a bleeder, the brake fluid, just returns to the master cylinder Reservoir...opening a bleeder accomplishes nothing. But removing the cap on the Reservior, wouldn't be a bad idea...when you are screwing a piston back.
Thanks for commenting. =)
Also, the brand of pads you used, with the guard on the back to prevent squeaking?
OEM...Original Equipment Manufacture...Audi parts.
What size is the wrench in your left hand. I tried all mine and I couldn't fit a wrench in the inside nut of the caliber.
13mm, and 15mm...or 8mm Allen, I'm not sure what one you're asking about? But that is all the sizes...
approximately how long do you think it would take to complete just a pad slap?
+ChrisAvilaTV
Approximately, 10 min pr side.
@CizzleK
If I remember correctly, it was a 1998.
What type of star socket did you use to get the rotor bracket off
The brake fluid returns to the master cylinder reservoir.
Great video! Now I'm prepared. I just wish my ratchet wrenches weren't stolen!
I don't remember the brand of the pads. The off set ratchet....you can get them from Snap On, or Mac tools.
The Snap On part # is...FLF936.
¿how do you prevent the brake fluid from going back to the main unit?
My e brake spring thing, whatever it's called, doesn't compress on the one side but does on the other. What's the cause of this? Froze up cable on one side?
It is, a caliper, or a cable, ore both...
VTSPQR I tried pb blast on it and loosened the bolt it pivots on and still no movement, tried using a clamp to break it free and it's still stuck
cameron heagle
If I'm understanding your question? It sounds to me like the e brake cam is frozen in the caliper. PB Blaster will not help you, it sounds like you need a new caliper?...
VTSPQR think that's the route I'm going to have to take, I don't have amthe decompressing tool but tried using needle nose pliers to rotate the piston into the caliper and doesn't seem like its going in.. any ideas on how else to get it in? Or where to get a tool?
cameron heagle
This is where you can buy a caliper wined back tool. I hope that helps? They are not expensive...
www.richtoolsystems.com/product.asp?itemid=359&gclid=CjwKEAiA68WnBRCJxZr5qoaL3iMSJAAXIrr31fuGuTSf7xrBH81FHF9FoINMSrfNIg_AzCumzSHnnhoCMNrw_wcB
most auto parts shops (o'reilly, autozone, etc.) will loan out the piston compressor at no charge.
The wires that go from the chassis down to the sensors, 'brake inside the sheathing'.
The best way to test for this problem is to; Unplug the wires going down to the sensor, and then connect the two wires to a volt meter, or a test light, and then turn the ignition switch on. If you don't have 12v, or light...then one or two of the wires are broken.
agreed 100% thanks for the info!!!
First, great video. I have a 2011 A4 with Quattro rear brake calipers, I'm want to do it myself, but the Audi dealer tell me that I need a "special" tool to compressed the pistons and another "special" tool to deactivate the calipers. I'm not sure what they mean by that. Also how much the tool you used to compressed the piston cost you. They told me a tool would cost me nearl 1k dollars. Insane. I'm thinking of using a wrench to close the piston if nothing else works. Will I damaged it doing it this way. Thank you. Keep up the great work. Also liked the useful tip on how to hold up the rotor. Thanks. From Dallas Texas.
+Fernando Rodriguez
All you need is a $ 30 tool....here is a link....www.amazon.com/21pcs-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Piston/dp/B00RT86QPY/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453250233&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=calper+wined+back+tool
+Fernando Rodriguez if you have EPB, yes, you need a special tool which is an computer connected to the OBD port that electronically actuates the Electronic parking brake (EPB) in order to push the brake piston back so you can remove the pads and replace the rotor, if you do it by hand, you would probably damage the system. If you don't have EPB, then doing it by hand is the way to go.
+Nacho Miranda
WTF...... LOL....That was a very funny comment...ROFL!!!!!!
+VTSPQR thank you good man.
+Nacho Miranda yes, you are so right. I did more research and that exactly what they told me. I seen a video about it to. Only the dealership has this tool. Thank you.
Doesn't penetrant eat / destroy boots?
Nice video - very informative and helpful.
Also, where did you get that angled socket wrench?
Snap on, or Mack Tools.
Is PB Blaster or WD-40 safe for the rubber on the piston dust boot?
What year is this A4 ? Is it the same brakes as on a 2001 A4 with a 1.8T ?
I don't remember what year the car was? But it doesn't matter because the brakes are the same on all the A4's.
Thanks VTSPQR
ALLSOME DUDE U MADE IT VERY EASY TO DO THANK YOU
I'm glad it helped...Thanks for watching, and commenting...=)
Well done sir...great tutorial!
Thanks...=)
would a c clamp work fine to push the piston in?
Just GREAT ! Thanks a lot , man ! I have learn one mor thing !
what size are the bolts on the caliper carrier?
@rickyeguizabal
All the Quattros are more or less the same, but on a front wheel drive car, the rotors & hub are different.
Generic rotors $20/each, and pads $25 to $35/for a set of four.
Thanks, fore you're post, and I hope it helps others.
Hello sir. Your videos must have been a great help. Have some video that I can view, how to change the oil tube steering? I need of the Audi 80 of my father :)
what is that thing that presses down on the circle to compress the tool
It is called a caliper wined back tool, it works on American, European, Japanese, and many other cars. It is sold as a kit. The cost for this kit, is about $35 USD. I hope that helped?
VTSPQR thank you sir!
great video!
thanks
Thank you so much for the video!
The Audi service manual says to replace the caliper bolts.
Curtis Paul You don't need to replace them.
12:29 you answered the question i had...thank you
You're welcome, and thank you...=)
Thanks...if I ever can give out useful information,.....I'm glad to do it...=)
Thanks for your reply..
very helpful!
Thank you so much very helpful!
@yoyochain23
8mm Allen. They are not "Hex Bolts".
what year is this vehicle?
PB Blaster is safe, but I don't know about WD-40, because I don't use it in my shop.
Yes, and it is called a, 'Caliper Wined Back Tool'. $ 30.00~
I'm glad to share, and thanks for watching, and commenting...=)
Thank you so much I tried to use a star socket and it didn't work
The best method of removing the rust is, glass beading, but if you don't have access to this, you can use a triangular deburing tool...it will work in a pinch. Thanks for watching, and commenting...=)
@ Rollin Blanton...No.
I hope you get this, there was no 'reply' button under your question?!
hey buddy thanks for the video, it helps alot! Do I need to crack the bleeder nipples on any of the calipers when I compress the piston in??? Thanks for your help.
+Chris Watson
No you don't, just remove the cap on the master cylinder.
+Chris Watson
I honestly have never received rear pads with a bag of smaller clips!? It might be a packaging mistake, or they sent you the wrong pads? sorry I don't have a answer for you on that question. If the pads are the same, use them, and through out the smaller clips.
+VTSPQR hey buddy last question im gonna ask, don't wanna bug you but im doing a brake job from hell. well I did 3 sides of my car no problem but on the last one (rear passenger side) the bottom 8Mm bolt on the pad carrier is stripped bad. I tryed heating it and I don't have enough room to drill it out so I was wondering if you had any suggestions? Im at a loss as to what to do, I was thinking maybe try a nut splitter to grab onto it? just wondering what your expert oppinion might be, I appreciate all your help taking the time to answer my questions, thanks alot!
+Chris Watson
The easiest way is to use this tool. Here is a link for the tool. It is basically a easy out socket, and they work great! Good luck...=)
www.lowes.com/pd_577634-281-394001_0__?k_clickID=923d9302-e704-416d-ba9d-969adfd1d792&store_code=1913&productId=50146292&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=[com.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.Loca
I don't know how you could have gotten air in the lines??
Next time I bleed brakes, I'll make a video of 'How to do that'.