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How to fix & clean out your steering tube that is getting harder to steer.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 มี.ค. 2018
- *** ALL SCREWS ARE RIGHTY TIGHTY LEFTY LOOSIE *** Due to filming some shots in selfie mode and producing these all on my cell phone some images may be backwards.
How to fix and clean out a mechanical steering on a boat . Sea Star or Uflex steering is freezing up and getting hard. I will show you how to diagnose and fix just like a pro but in you own home. Subscribe for more boat how to tips and fishing on the east coast. Contact me at captainrobthompson@gmail.com
Thanks so much for this video. Got the steering un-stuck clean out and sanded tube and Shazam all fixed. You just saved me hundreds and got me back on the water. Thanks
Just followed your instruction and Boom stearing is back. Thankyou your a life(money) saver.
Your welcome! You can always take the nut off every year and just re-pack it with grease. Push the shaft back in and your good to go. Thanks for watching!
Great informative video! You just saved me probably 200 bucks of bringing boat to service center! Great great great video!
OMG.. thank you, thank you, thank you. I was thinking how to reem the inside of the cable tube. You made me very happy on your "old cable" with 80 grit... easy. Thanks again.
Your welcome!!!
That was good. Got a double rack & pinion that was totally frozen up (used boat I rebuilt from the ground up), and that was giving me fits. Thanks.
My man! the cable and sandpaper trick is a great idea for cleaning the tube. I've been trying to think how best to do this for a while.
Had jam up on 50 yamaha..
A good lapping paste is thin oil plus kitchen cream cleanser for the grit value.
Used shaft same size I'd cut off as unusable. Revmoved out of tilt tube and lapped mine with it held in a cordless drill.
A thorough wash out and thin oil inside and good as new.
A copper mallet good for tapping any parts.
thanks for this video. wish I found it before I bought a new steering cable , but now I can return it.
Love this video, solved my issue with installing new cable
Thank you for posting this. Doing the same exact thing to an old 115hp merc tower of power.
Cool! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the great video. Gives me a good idea on how to do it on my outboard. Cheers !
Great simple video explaining procedure/I’m doing this on my friends steering cable tube and new cable, I’m 70 need simple solutions to boating problems, Smoky Calf.Bub
Thank you for the video. It was a great help and the steering on my 50hp yamaha now works a treat.
Thanks Craig!!!
Great video! Helped a lot thanks. I’m doing it tomorrow.
Thanks for the vid Captain Rob! YOu solved my problem!
A clean tube is a happy tube!
GENIUS! 100% SOLID. WORKED GREAT. SINCERE THANK YOU!
Glad it worked out for you!!!!
Really helpfull video ....great job
12 ga shotgun brush on a drill works great too.
Great video. I have been down that road recently. If I had properly lubricated i would never had to do it. So what i want to share : #1 : See the grease nipple on this tube ? I figured it would lubricate the tube inside. Guess what : It does not, it just lubricates the outside so it will grease tilting the motor. Nothing else. #2 : When you lubricate the shaft which you should sometimes, unscrew the tube on both sides, slide the cap and grease return washer away as well as the end of the cable and lubricate it there. If you lubricate from the outside grease will be scraped of by the grease return washer and cap and it hardly helps.
Truly helpful vid. Thank you.
Nice job going to try that thanks.
Steering arm said... no
Crescent wrench was like... yes
Good video man. Thanks for the knowledge. 🤙🏼
Thanks, by the end of trying to film I was like F this! If I'm at a yard working no if I'm in my garage hell yeah I'm gonna bang it in. Thank for watching.
@@captainrobthompson8728 lmbo it's all good man. Some times you have to remind it of who the boss is. I'm getting the tools ready to work on mine today.
Anytime!!! Good luck. Let me know if you need anything!
I just shot new grease in mine and it helped a bit but after tomorrow's trip looks like I'll be pulling it apart and cleaning it using your method😉
Give this a try. th-cam.com/video/kcASsYgDnnA/w-d-xo.html
Me too! Thanks 😊
Do not put too much grease in the tube it will sort of hydrolock like it did in this video and dry up and act like glue. The tolerance is too tight for a lot of grease.
Brilliant tip
What a trip! I just tried to clean my tilt tube yesterday. I swear our phones can read our thoughts. I couldn't get the darn steering arm off. The threaded end will not come up out of the lower steering arm and I need a bigger wrench for the large tilt tube nut. I was able to free up the steering quite a bit but would like it to be a little easier.
Keep Sanding and try mercury 2-4-c. You may have memory in the cable?
great video!
Good info
Dude great video
I love you man!
Brilliant!!
Inventative. Like that!
Dude. WTF. Lifesaver!! I'll be fixing my steering this week with these methods. Of course I need to break the steering arm free first...
Make sure you have room to get the steering arm out. If not you need to borrow an engine hoist. Don't listen to people who say use a bore cleaning tool. It's a rusty $#!tty mess ream out that tube. Good luck!!!
@@captainrobthompson8728 I had been lubing the tilt tube which obviously didnt lube up the steering arm. I used it a few weeks ago so its not like it was sitting for a season. I am hopeful that I can remove the linkage and twist that arm to break it free and out. That or a mallet against a 2x4. I honestly dont think it will take much, but my boat is in salt water sooo... I will be using your genius idea of the sandpaper to clean it out once removed though. I hope I am not back to ask for more ideas!
@@cjw1az worst case is its frozen and you replace the cable and tube. If it's really tight try an air impact driver. Just try not to mangle the end of the cable. Keep the bolt in the hole until you can't anymore. Just keep writing me. You'll be ok.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks for the ideas! I'll head down there over the next few days.
Looks like the arm is frozen in the tube. I can't get this thing to move for the life of me.
I rented a hoist to lift the engine but it would take a couple of days to get the lifting eye so i pulled a Macgyver. Might not be kosher but it sure feels better sitting in my driveway. I wrapped a cable around the flywheel but didn't put any tension on it. That was a just in case component. I pulled the rwo starboard bolts and the bottom bolt on the port side. I also slightly loosened the remaining bolt. Just above the prop I put a strap with a come along. I slowly cranked the come along so the motor privoted to the port side and i had enough room to pull the cable out of the tube and was able to break out the shotgun cleaning stuff and some 220 grit sandpaper (all I had) and removed a ton of crap. It ended up being a piece of cake to line up the bolt holes. I was very carefull using the hoist to eliminte to much strain on the remaing bolt and straps to prevent the motor from slamming when it pivoted. It probably wasn't the best way to do it but it worked.
Damn!!! You did go full MacGyver!!! The only thing I would say is watch the flywheel and crank position switch if you have an issue not running. I'm not sure what motor you have but it sounds like that did the trick for you. If you needed a lifting eye is this a merc or older Honda or omc?
I back tracked 115 merc. The screw in eye pulley. Just try to grease the cable every year unscrew the big nut steer out the cable pull it to transom slob it with grease and put it back in. That your yearly routine. I'm smiling ear to ear now. Great job! Any pics?
Those Mercs that need an additional lifting eye are a pain. I replaced mine yesterday with a modern Yamaha. The Yamaha had two lifting brackets already installed and it was hanging from my picker. Had no idea how to get the merc off by myself. I did something very similar along with a rope and pulley system tied to my tractor and wrapped around the flywheel. Once I got the engine off and upright on the skeg, I drove my tractor towards it which allowed it to lay down softly onto a comforter. Where there's a will there's a way.
I use something like that to clean my muzzleloader and other fire arms!
Capt Rob, I have to ask, is scratching the metal the best way to clean up the steering rod? How about the inside of the pivot tube as well? Would it not be better to clean it like you would clean a gun and protect the metal using solvents and brass bushes or brass wool?,, opening the pores of the metal in my opinion I thought would be just asking for more rust and corrosion/.. ?
It's not but it's the way it's been shown to me over the years. Time is money and there is lots of rust and grim in there. I can choke out a piece of 80 grit in seconds. In the tube. Running a bore snake would take hours. On the steering cable brake clean and a rag and light sandpaper is fine say 400grit. The inside of the tube is not stainless it's just rusty steel. Get in there clean it get out. By packing the steering yearly will eliminate going back in to clean it out. I hope this helped. It's a good valid question!
Instead of sandpaper, I suggest emery cloth instead.
Great Vid, I'm certain this is my issue on a 115hp Merc. Problem is I cannot pull the cable out of the tube.
I do not have the clearance pulling out on the starboard side. All nuts are off and cable is free to move ,it goes almost immediately binder the boat deck at a rather sharp angle.
SMH,, what can I do?
Unfortunately that's a motor that needs to come off. Ask around and see if someone has a hoist.
need to try this as my steering is hard as h... has been for a while nice video hope that it works out for me as well and does the trick
Keep me posted and thanks for watching!!!
seems to have grease on it but still hard to pull out
also what kind of cord to use to sand not to sure
I've tried to use a shirt hanger. It works but you need more sandpaper.
Yeah clean that junk off and ream out that tube. Re grease with any multi purpose grease and put back together. With the cable out does the wheel turn easily?
I am going to attempt this tomorrow. You have explained it quite well. Thank you. Have a question as we did not get get to see the removal part. Before using the sand paper do you remove the plastic nut and the O ring and the lock washer on the other end of tilt tube?. I would think so ..just making sure.
Just the plastic wiper nut with oring. And pull out the steering cable. Then ream it out. It's nasty. Don't listen to comments about using a bore snake for a gun. This is a rotten steel tube not a smooth stainless or blued barrel. Grease the hell out of I when your done. Good luck!!!
@@captainrobthompson8728 I'd recommend greasing the heck out of it with a grease gun. The end didn't seem like it had much grease on it. Otherwise, fantastic job and explanation. Will likely help me with mine (completely frozen up).
Great idea I am having a really hard time getting my cable nut off the steering tube. Ready to give up and take it to the experts do you have any ideas for removing the nut so I can remove the cable?
heat it
Great video. Do you have any tips for removing a seized old cable? I have loosened the cable end and put in a bunch of penetrating oil and also heated the outside of the tilt tube but the cable still wont budge.
Ok so your at pro level now. You'll need a center punch and a mallet and or an air impact driver. Your gonna have to drive it out. If it won't budge your gonna have to replace the tube and cable. Go to boats.net and look at the schematic pic so you can see the bushings in there. When you pull the tube out replace it with a bar or rod so they don't fall out and so that motor doesn't fall back. You've got a project right there. Good luck and keep me in the loop.
@@captainrobthompson8728 thanks for the tips. I was leading down that road when I was working on it this afternoon. I wasn't ready to push the entire tube out that'll have to wait for another day. Thanks for the link as well. I'm new to working on boats but have a lot of experience with cars so any tips are greatly appreciated. I'll let you know how it goes.
So you know too the bushings are plastic. So no hear unless you replace them. I'm sorry I didn't have good news
Auto correct was suppose to be no heat
Great vid. Mines steers fine but once the wheel starts turning one way it just goes hard over (if your not holding the wheel). Is there a way to fix that?
I think you have a feed back system. You should look into changing your helm to a no feed back style. That way it takes the pressure off and is much safer. Your cable should be able to adapt if its really old get a kit with both the helm bezel and cable. All the hardware will be in there and you wont have to worry for years to come. Good luck!
Wanted to see the O ring installation.
Look up mar-zerkn-ut-01 it is a screw on grease fitting that has the oring.
Thanks Capt Rob. Hey do you have a steering kit brand/model you recommend for a small mckee craft 14ft? Thanks)
No I don't. Where will you be? Rack is usually in freshwater. Rotary in salt. Uflex is ok a tad cheaper than seastar. Always make sure it's NFB no feed back. Lecomble and Schmidt are overseas stay away if you want hydraulic. Baystar is for under 150hp. What do you have 25-50hp? The biggest thing is sealing the end of the tilt tube and annually greasing it like any fitting. You'll be fine then.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks so much for the info. Super helpful! I had a hard time finding anything that's why i asked you. I have a 25 hp that i use in the bay in Delaware. Steering has been tough. Going to give it a good cleaning but upon inspection some plastic parts on the helm were disintegrating and crumbling apart.
Send me pics captainrobthompson@gmail.com
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my steering is bad, how do you clean the steering tube ?
My problem is the outer tube is stuck in the tilt tube. I can't get the damn thing out to clean it. Locked up totally!!
I can't get the steering cable to come loose inside the tilt tube to take it out. I put vice grips on it and rotated it but it just rotates the whole tilt tube. I could put a pipe wrench on the tilt tube. Any help is appreciated!!!
Hello! Your going to have to drive it out with a hammer or impact driver. The rust has expanded and is holding it in there. You have some work ahead of you.
I use vaselin instead of grease there.
Help. Not enough clearance to pull the steering cable out of the tube. Is my only option to pull the 115 mercury off of my 17ft whaler dauntless.
I'm sorry but yes you have to take it off. The design of some transom s will not let you pull the cable all the way. You can try to clean as much as possible by cheeting. Run the cable out and pull it to you til you hit the starboard transom then clean the core. Run cable in and pull it tward starboard side transom and clean inside of tube. You may get enough to get the job done? Good luck!!!
The end of my tube threads are very rusty and damaged. is it possible to replace the tube entirely?
Absolutely, it is a huge pain and there are some bushings on some types of engines. Make sure you have a schematic pic from boats.net so you can see everything that is there and you can have it all before you take it apart. Sometimes you can push it through sometimes it has to come out one side and go back in that way. Try to look up another video I have not done one in a while. Good luck. Or try getting a die and clean the threads that may help.
what many are saying is you do not use thick marine grease, that's what goes hard and gives this problem. You use white lithium grease, spray it on and you will have less problems.
People that have not done this job hundreds of times say that. If they knew they wouldnt be looking this up. The thing they need is the tube sealed so they don't have water intrusion. That's why you need thick grease. It coats and seals. 10 years later It's thick and mixed with rust. It's not even shiny in there when new but lots of people say gun bore cleaning tools as well. It would take a year to clean it with that. It's the bare steel that rusts out. The expansion of rust in the tube puts pressure on the cable. Lithium grease would be gone in no time flat. It comes down to maintenance. No one fixes this or even looks at it til it's freezing up. If you annually back it out and grease it you'll be much better off for years to come.
@@captainrobthompson8728 So stu from Dangar marine,youtube is wrong then. Hes been an outboard mechanic for over 30 years, l just went out and bought lithium because he recommended it and he said dont use the thick grease. Hmmmm .l dont know what to use now .
@@swedishkev I've been a Honda outboard tech since 2000. If you had a perfectly New cable and tilt tube with a good oring to seal it lithium grease would work because there would be no water intrusion. If it were older you sanded out the tube and it was frozen and nasty in there I want something that would seal out water not so much just lube it. But besides which grease you use the end of the tube needs to be sealed or you going to be doing this job again. They sell wiper nuts online that thread on the end of your tube. The internal oring will clean off debit, keep out water and keep in grease. The nut also has a zerk fitting to allow you to grease it with regular maintenance. If I had to choose a perfect grease for this job you can get I would use
Mercury 2-4-C because it's both a little pasty so it won't run off but has a lot of lubricant in it. It's slippery stuff. But no matter what anyone tells you every year unthread the steering cable nut off. Run your steering cable out and re-grease. Push it back in and tighten it up. It takes 3 minutes but saves you so much in the end. Good luck Kevin you can always take pics and send them to me along the way with any of these jobs!
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks Rob appreciate it.
Your welcome Kevin!
What grease would you recommend for a 40 hp evinrude?
A good marine grease or merc 2-4-c
I'm about to do this job for the 3rd time on a one year-old cable and helm. Ugh, same old problem: Gunk and dried grease jammed between the cable and tilt tube, even though I am using only white lithium and am careful not to over grease. Question: Can anyone explain why the cable and tilt tube are manufactured with such a tight clearance between them? Since it seems the only action is at the end of the cable or in the cable itself, wouldn't a tad more clearance be a good thing?
I think it would be ok to have some clearance since the hp limit is usually 150hp. If they uses better grade steel or even a real stainless wiper nut with zerk fitting would be great. Really get in there and ream it out with a heavy grit paper. All these gun bore cleaning people have no clue how rusty and nasty it is in there. Look up the stainless steel wiper nut from Yamaha. I had one in my hand the other day. You maybe getting the water in from that end most likely. Or run your cable out all the way then back the steering cable nut off and spray it down and up in the tube. Put the nut back on and stay ahead of it. Good luck! Sounds like you got an angry one.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks Rob for the reply, I will look into the SS wiper nut. Definitely a saltwater intrusion problem as you said because I cannot believe how much crud is in there every time I clean it. And what a pain as I have to remove and support the motor to get the cable out. Outboard is the Yamaha Saltwater Series which is supposed to have a stainless tilt tube, but doesn't seem to help. Right now I am trying to free up the gunk the lazy way by fitting some fuel hose over the end of the tilt tube and letting solvent gravity-feed its way through the tube for a few days. It has freed up the steering quite a bit so far with black gunk working it's way out of the other end of the tilt tube. If I end up pulling the motor I will definitely use your sandpaper trick instead of the wire brush on a drill I used before which may not be aggressive enough.
You going to grease that zirc grease fitting captain?
It doesn't grease the steering at all. It greases the knuckles for the tilt. So no its not going to help with the steering at all. And everyone thinks It does. When you grease that zirc watch where the grease comes out. If you pull out the steering cable you'll see its still dry.
Hi do you have to use a specific grease or any ???
You do not have to use a specific type but a marine grade is best or even wheel bearing will be fine
What would you recommend to clean out the tilt tube if I have no old control cable?
Ok so we have tried a wire shirt hanger and a bicycle lock cable. That also works.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks for the reply.
No problem anytime. That has been a big question I need to address
Shot gun cleaning stick
You could also use a piece of wood dowel that is small enough to go into your drill. It's just not as strong so you would have to go a bit slower with it.
General maintenance is important.
The rust inside is occurring as a result of a lack of grease.
There is a grease nipple on the front of that tube, give it a couple quirts each season and this shouldn't happen.
The grease nipple on the front of the tilt bracket is for the bushings on the ends of the tilt tube. This grease point is to help with trim.
But how did you get the steering arm out of the tilt tube when it is locked up tight?
Slam twist turn slam. Sometimes an air impact sometimes a hammer. If it doesn't. You replace the tilt tube and cable. It all depends.
@@captainrobthompson8728 yeah, what I was thinking. Thanks Bud
No problem anytime! Keep me posted on how you do!
I am not able to remove one of my steering tubes due to the side of the boat is in the way. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you
You can either unbolt 3 of the bolts and tip it or jack the whole thing off with an engine hoist or use a big tree and use a come along off a big branch. It's not going to be fun.
Out of curiosity, how much would that cost to get done at a shop? I'm having more issues with getting mine fixed, but it's locked up tight on the steering arm side and problems threading the nut on the tilt bar!!! Driving me crazy!!
Cable is about 175 I think off hand a tube could be 100 plus all the little parts another 100-200 and labor probably 4 hours. Since you will have to hoist up the motor from the bracket. My labor rate is $125 per hour. Your probably in it for a grand. If it's frozen bad and nothing works out a day's labor 7 hours. I'm not sure where you are or what your horse power is? I'm just guessing. If you get everything new and a cable and cut it all out and put it all in new you just saved your labor. It should be much smooth that way. Cut the cable off at the tube and bang the tube out of the bracket but support the motor so it does not fall.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks for the quick response! I'll see what I can do.
@ryanyingling2903 just keep me posted. It may feel like a lot but it's not. You got this.
Hi, is it still possible to steer the engine manually by hand when there is a hydraulic system mounted on the board please? I wonder if it makes any harm to the hydraulic system. Thank you.
If the hydraulic system fails you maybe able to move the motor by hand but steering would be really difficult by hand
@@captainrobthompson8728 yes it is a 150hp 4-stroke and quite heavy. There is no problem but I am thinking about to add an electric linear actuator for an autopilot project. I was wondering if that makes any harm to the hydraulics. Thank you.
@victorfrankenstein1995 yes you can not add electric steer over a hydraulic
@@captainrobthompson8728 thank you. Do you have a budged autopilot solution for me?
@victorfrankenstein1995 what set up do you have boat & motor(s)
Isn't there a zerk fitting there?
At the end of the tube there were some aftermarket wiper nuts with a zerk fitting. The ones on the knuckles that all motors have does the trim were the bushings are. Either way the inside of the steering cable never sees grease. I wish there were more zerk fittings. Yes you are right There is a single grease fitting on the front on some mercs but it comes out the sides at the bushings. This lines the bracket were the motor pivots up on.
yes there is but that zerk only greases the outside of the tilt tube. That grease never enters the steering cable side of the tilt tube. To further explain, notice that the tilt tube is inside that outer casing just like the steering cable is inside the tilt tube, therefore, three parts.
Ciao
I did what you side and my motor is hard to turn with out cable connected. Where do I go from here?
Ok your gonna need a hoist and you have to take the engine off. It's frozen in the steering tube not the tilt tube. You may want to take it in and have someone look at it?
There's years of dirt and salt deposits inside the extending arm piece of my cable. Is there a way to open it up and get it out?
Once you pull the cable out of the tilt tube run out the cable all the way. Spray with degreaser and clean off. Put back in tilt tube and grease both sections of cable before you screw nut on pack that last bit with more grease. Screw on the nut then turn steering back. That will force the grease back into that gloove what was packed with salt and junk. Look into a wiper nut to screw on the other side it has a zerk fitting to tease that and keep the salt out. If you need help finding let me know. Good luck!
@@captainrobthompson8728 sorry, I know how to remove it and clean the tilt tube. I mean the steering cable itself. Where it extends. Is there a way of opening up the end?
@@theaffordableboater3141 unfortunately nope. But with the cable hooked up to the helm and out of the motor you should be able to extend that cable out and back. Sometimes if that's the case I just change the cable. I'm sorry!
@@captainrobthompson8728 sure. Thank you. I've been through about 10 rotations and greasing and cleaning and it's slightly lighter but, still very heavy. The rack and pinion is in fairly good condition so, I might as well just change the cable. Cables only aren't expensive.
@@theaffordableboater3141 the cable is the way to go then. Don't hesitate to contact me. Good luck!
How do you get the the point where you take the steering cable out of the tilt tube? Mine is completely frozen. Can't even get to the point you're at St the beginning of the video.
Ok so your gonna have to beat it out. Keep something like the steering arm in the hole so it doesn't collapse. A mallet a large brass punch and or an impact driver should move it. If not your replacing the whole tube. Be careful not to add to much heat you'll melt the bushings. Let me know how far you get.
@@captainrobthompson8728 thanks man! I'll get to it.
Good luck and give it hell!!!
What grease are you using?
A yamalube grease now because I have it. Mercury 2-4-c was good. Very slippery. I like a medium thick grease nothing like tar and nothing runny. A regular multi use grease is fine.
What kind of grease do you use
Any marine grease or multi purpose
wish you were around to help me with mine. how r u anyway
Hey Buddy. Messenger me tonight we will FaceTime. It's been crazy here. Last hurricane took out the yard and office. Still trying a month and a half later to get back. House and fam are good. You? How's the fishing? Looks like albies are in.
what guage is the cable that you used to clean out the tilt tube and what type of cable is it?
It's a regular control cable about 5/16" you can use a coat hanger wire, a bike lock the wire ones. Garage door wire. We have been trying to come up with more household items so you don't have to go out and buy one. Hope that helps.
The problem I have is that my motor take me two people to bring it up or down. I just ordered a new tube. Hoping it will fix the problem. I am hoping it is not the assist cylinder.
Check the relief valve on the side of the trim & tilt. You need two people to help lift it?
@@captainrobthompson8728 yes two. I was sure it was the assist tilt cylinder. But now that you mentioned the release valve I will have to check that and also clean it replace my tilt tube before I touch the assist cylinder.
I took the trim out of a Johnson 50hp and use to just do it by hand. That may help. It was only 1 person then manually.
@@captainrobthompson8728 yes 2. I know it sounds crazy but it is true. That’s why I am trying to figure out what it is. If it is the assist cylinder or the tilt tube. I hope it’s the tilt tube. Bc it has rust on the arm together with grease. If it is the assist cylinder than I have way more work to do. To remove that thing will be a challenge. I was hoping if it is the cylinder that I can hopefully repack it.
@@captainrobthompson8728 in regards to the relieve valve. I don’t have power trim. I have assist tilt. Which means I have to do it manually. So there is no relieve valve.
My steering is only hard under heavy load. Any ideas? Funny enough. In reverse under load it's fine. Only forward and under heavy load is it a problem...
Sounds like you have a feed back steering where you fight it. Look into a no feed back steering system. Cable will match up you just need a helm.
@@captainrobthompson8728 is it the same on the stick steering
@@pauldavis4459 hi Paul on a tiller steer your gonna look at the steering tube which is verticle and where the engine mounts are. That is probably rusted and a much different fix. Sorry....
Ah, 6:01 he can pack the backside with grease!
Yepper that's the biggest trick. Even if the steering is ok I will do that so the steering doesn't freeze up by keeping moisture out.
Are all boat steering cables the same?
I think there are a few sea star had a quick connect and a solid one I forget the name. There was a feed back helm and a no feed back which is what everyone should replace with. So if you let go of the wheel the motor will not take off and turn hard over. There is a rack style system found on more freshwater boats. The cable through the tilt tube is the same for all. There is also a company called uflex. They have some good stuff too.
@@captainrobthompson8728 Thanks for replying so quickly. I need to fix my boat's steering system which is exactly what you were doing in this vid. My concern is will most (or all) cables fit in my steering tube? as well as the helm will fit in my steering wheel?
Ok you need to remove the cable and match it up. The motor end will be the same. Take a pick of the helm from underneath. That's the end you need to match. If you hold the motor with your hands will it turn the steering wheel and move back and forth?
@@captainrobthompson8728 I probably will buy the Safe-t II SS132 set like you did. You didn't seem to have any issue fitting your steering wheel into the helm. By the way, does the length of the steering cable include the rod that goes into the tube?
Go onto seastar online they will show you the exact measurement. Off hand I don't remember but the measuring diagram is easy to find. Good luck!
I was looking for how to remove the bar. You already had it out.
Is yours frozen in Place? I try not to beat up the end to bad. I remove the bae to see if the motor turns to rule out the steering tube. Then I put it back in and nut it to fill the hole. I'm screw the steering cable nut and start hammering. Once you get close to the tilt tube remove the steering arm link and use a punch to bang it thru the tube. If it's really hard use and air impact driver. If that doesn't work cut the cable and remove the tube and replace the cable and tube. Heat doesn't really work because you melt all the bushings. I hope that helps. Let me know what you run into.
why dont u just fill it with grease through the grease insert?
Because the grease insert doesn't grease the steering it greases the hinge and bushings for the motor to tip up.
What kind of grease did you use
A marine grease is what I normally use but any multi purpose is fine.
why not use the grease nipple ?
Because the grease nipple only greases the knuckles for the tilt. It does not go inside the steering tube
but how hard was it to remove, you didnt show that
It carries. If your steering is getting tight you can use a punch and a hammer to tap it out. If it's tight a mallet and a punch. If it's really frozen an impact hammer and a punch to get down the tube. If it's frozen solid you'll have to cut the cable and remove the tube.
It varries not carries
Try using the grease fitting on the tube from time to time and you won't be doing that no mo.
It doesn't grease the steering cable. That greases the knuckles for the bracket and allows the motor to trim up. It's called the tilt tube.
great video!
What kind of grease do you use?
Any marine grease is fine. I use Yamaha stuff now because I can get it easily. Even lubrimatic from a Napa is good. Ask for a multi purpose if marine grade is not there. Good luck!
Captain Rob Thompson thanks man appreciate it!