@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair I've been fighting with a ticking 2701 family version and still not having any success. I found a blown hot(bu2532AL) - replaced with a J6920 which i've read is more resilient and shorted C423 924J capacitor that was showing barely any capacitance. Replaced both of them and all electrolytics.Tested a whole bunch of other components in around the area around C423 all the way back to the HOT/drive circuit. still ticking! C450 was fine. I"ve just ordered a new flyback. any tips. losing hair, side note: I"m finding the schematic widley avaialble for the full family doesn't quite match up with my chassis. For example the schematic says a cap at C490 and Diode at D490 and I have neither of those on my board. also some variance with what is listed for some non-electrolytic caps and what I"ve got on board.
I have a 2702 that I've been struggling with. The person I got it from stored it under a tarp outside for years. Since I received It. It has been recapped , new flyback installed, all variable resistors changed and all ic chips have been replaced except the smps chip and the neck board chip. The B+ pot is turned all the way down and won't go below 115 vdc. D107 measures 115 vdc, D107 reads 24.5 vdc. The heater pin on the neck reads 4 vdc and should be 6.3 vdc. Any thoughts?
Did you test the HOT under full load to see that it was bad, or just replace it and then it started working? Just curious if you can test these under load, or not.
I'm trying to revive one of these and when hooking up to D106 my meter is reading 1000V+. Tried the meter on the AC from my ISO and it reads 130V. Any ideas why that would read so high?
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepairI'm sure you saw, but this was because the multimeter was on AC not DC reading the B+ 😂. I guess in my head, since it was so close to 120V AC, I just wanted to set it to that on the multimeter.
Another awesome repair sir !
Love your videos mike. Anyone ever tell you you kind of sound like Bob Odenkirk
Thanks. Nope.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair I've been fighting with a ticking 2701 family version and still not having any success. I found a blown hot(bu2532AL) - replaced with a J6920 which i've read is more resilient and shorted C423 924J capacitor that was showing barely any capacitance. Replaced both of them and all electrolytics.Tested a whole bunch of other components in around the area around C423 all the way back to the HOT/drive circuit. still ticking! C450 was fine. I"ve just ordered a new flyback. any tips. losing hair, side note: I"m finding the schematic widley avaialble for the full family doesn't quite match up with my chassis. For example the schematic says a cap at C490 and Diode at D490 and I have neither of those on my board. also some variance with what is listed for some non-electrolytic caps and what I"ve got on board.
I have a 2702 that I've been struggling with. The person I got it from stored it under a tarp outside for years. Since I received It. It has been recapped , new flyback installed, all variable resistors changed and all ic chips have been replaced except the smps chip and the neck board chip. The B+ pot is turned all the way down and won't go below 115 vdc. D107 measures 115 vdc, D107 reads 24.5 vdc. The heater pin on the neck reads 4 vdc and should be 6.3 vdc. Any thoughts?
Did you test the HOT under full load to see that it was bad, or just replace it and then it started working? Just curious if you can test these under load, or not.
No, I'm not sure how you would test it under load. The chassis will output high voltage if you turn it on with the HOT installed.
I'm trying to revive one of these and when hooking up to D106 my meter is reading 1000V+. Tried the meter on the AC from my ISO and it reads 130V. Any ideas why that would read so high?
1000v? If not sure how that is possible.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepair That's what I said! I'm pretty sure that would've smoked my multimeter.
@@MikesArcadeMonitorRepairI'm sure you saw, but this was because the multimeter was on AC not DC reading the B+ 😂. I guess in my head, since it was so close to 120V AC, I just wanted to set it to that on the multimeter.
Will that yoke work with anything else?
A 2701 yoke? Possible another medium res chassis but I have not done any testing.