Great video. After using the Evapo-Rust it turned black. Evapo-Rust can be used quite a few times - just filter it through a 'cone' shaped coffee filter and it cleans up pretty good. Michael from Canada
Nice restoration. I recently restored a timber frame corner chisel and had a blast doing it. I finished it off with a custom leather sheath! Thanks for posting.
Here in the UK 🇬🇧 we call that a bevel edge chisel. Used for finishing work. I’ve been looking for chisels with the type of handles you’ve just fitted but we don’t seem to have any here. The handles we get are glued around a tang. I like what you do. Just found your Channel and subscribed. 😀👍🏻
Agreed. I got it, along with several other hand tools in an old wooden tool box for $75 and the chisel and handle were both in the box but not together... so they were almost lost to each other. Thanks for watching and commenting. It means a lot.
I like to leave the character of the tools too. I call them memories of the steel. But, I also will put the tool in the oven heated to about 170 degrees then apply the bluing. I find I get a richer deeper bluing, touching it up with a 0000 steel wool. this came out great. on the ring however, ive put them on wooden dowels and used a plastic hammer even hard rubber to avoid dings and such.
Fantastic restoration. One way you could secure the handle is to drill a tiny hole in the fluted metal and hammer in a small nail. If you don't want to do that, you could also fill the inside with epoxy.
Nice restoration. I am very happily surprised that you fully restored it, instead of remaking parts of it...seems a lot of restoration folks remake the wooden parts, or make drastic changes to the style of a tool or the decorative parts. Glad to see you didn't, and kept the original handle and metal.
Wish you made a new handle because to me it looks way too short and personally I like it to sit on top of the socket collar all flush. Additionly chisels shouldn't typically have a curved cutting edge and should be square to the edges. The flatness of the bottom inch to the cutting edge of the backside is also of great importance with chisels. As a bevel edged chisel this is a good general purpose chisel for half laps, dovetails and the tenon part of mortise and tenons. Loved the efficiency with the rust remover and the finish with the blue stuff. Looked real nice as a finished product.
I agree with most all of this, but am curious about the handle. I think this is about the same size as all the socket chisels I have owned...maybe even a little longer. With socket chisels, usually the aim is for the handle to sit in your palm for pairing, and I find the short handle comfortable for that.
@@karl_alan You know what I think I'm wrong there. Personally I would like it longer as I have large hands but yeah, typically they aren't that long on typical socket chisels. My mistake, I'm more used to tang chisels.
@@ThatSpiffingChap The chisel definitely is easy to be confused on. It does have the brass ring, which is definitely more common on tang chisels, and I have never seen on a socket chisel before.
It turned out looking very good. To piggyback on Yves' comment: you should check out Paul Sellars' YT video on sharpening chisels for a clear, detailed demonstration.
Nice dang, chisel! You know, I have no idea where you are, but in Georgia this weekend is a 200+ mile yard sale called Peaches to the beaches. Anything and everything will be for sale, but it's the Tool Nirvana! I find planes, axes, chisels, and anything else for us rust lovers to reform.
To sharpen chisel use a piece of 1/4" plate glass with wet and dry sandpaper to get a proper sharpening. I am a quasi woodworker and when I saw the file and then the belt grinder use on that gem I cringed. Water stones or wet & dry sand paper by hand should be used on chisel. Just for your information. Power is nice but one slip and you can destroy a chisel. If you want more info let me know. Would be glad to share.Thanks for sharing
The restoration (except for the sharpening) was good. The back of the chisel should be perfectly flat for a least an inch or so. You seemed to put a bevel on the back side as well as on the front much as you would do on an axe. Chisels should not have a back bevel.
you can purchase a JIG that holds chisels at proper angles to be sharpened on wet stones. I have one and chisels come out danger sharp. Sorry forgot name. Great job with the belt sanders.
what's with the copper plating thing. apart from show what else does it have. after all the plating disappears after one or two uses unless it is only for show. anyway it is a very good job
Love the gun blu finishing tip to keep the vintage look! To properly sharpen a chisel you must flatten the back first on a flattened surface. Then use a fixture on your 4 in belt sander (make this) to grind the primary bevel at the proper 25 deg angle. Then use 400 grit to dress the bevel on flat and then you can polish or microbevel if you choose. veritas or similar fixtures help control the perfect bevel. A flat back is key. Never grind the back of a chisel on a non flat surface. 3/4" MDF works with dry sand paper. You are putting in 85% of the effort and only getting 25% of the long term benefit. Done right once, maintenance is easier. Cheers!
Any time you are blueing, hot or cold, the most important step is degreasing. Even the oil from your fingers will make it splotchy. Must be perfectly oil/ grease free before blowing. Nice job not making it look factory new.
That's not a chisel you should use a hammer on, but a mallet is okay. Nothing steel, just wood, leather, plastic or rubber mallets. if you really want it sharp, work up to 5000 or 8000 grit.
the angle of the bevel will determine a few things, like how sharp you can get it, and what it will do. a shallower bevel works better for finer work. A steeper bevel will take more material faster, but risks splitting it out rather than cutting it out leaving it much rougher when you're done chiseling. I used to use both, a bevel at nearly 45 degrees for rough in, then about 28 degrees for find finish work.
Honestly, theis was a terrible restoration. The most important part of the chisel is the back side. It must be sanded dead flat. You also need to use a jig to properly sharpen it to 30 degrees with a 5 degree micro bevel. Handle should have been remade on the lathe with a new piece of wood...
Good to know. On this one I’m always torn, I like both and hear both from subs. Some are love that I comment and some don’t. Thanks for the tying me know what you like. It helps. Thanks for watching.
Good to see you doing woodwork too!
Bikes and wood tools - great combination 😊
I've watched most of your videos, and this one, although simple, is one of the most satisfying.
My 7 year old would like to tell you that he loves your videos and that you did a great job making it sharp and cool.
Austin that’s awesome! Tell him thank you 🙏 being a dad rocks.
Just got one of these guys for free, nice to see a full process of how to bring it back to life
Never has a chisel held my attention before. Very nice job, and fun to watch.
Lol. Thanks for watching
Great video. After using the Evapo-Rust it turned black. Evapo-Rust can be used quite a few times - just filter it through a 'cone' shaped coffee filter and it cleans up pretty good.
Michael from Canada
Nice work on the brass bolster ring. Its always worth it to take the extra time when it needs it. The handle looks awesome!
Thanks
Nice restoration. I recently restored a timber frame corner chisel and had a blast doing it. I finished it off with a custom leather sheath! Thanks for posting.
Here in the UK 🇬🇧 we call that a bevel edge chisel. Used for finishing work. I’ve been looking for chisels with the type of handles you’ve just fitted but we don’t seem to have any here. The handles we get are glued around a tang. I like what you do. Just found your Channel and subscribed. 😀👍🏻
Awesome thanks 🙏
Nicely done Mr. Shovel ... will be keeping an eye on your work. Cheers ...
Awesome thanks 🙏
The commentary is a nice feature, thx!
Thanks 🙏
Nice work OldShovel! Finding one of those with the wood handle and brass ring was a good find! I usually see just the chisel blade by itself.
Agreed. I got it, along with several other hand tools in an old wooden tool box for $75 and the chisel and handle were both in the box but not together... so they were almost lost to each other. Thanks for watching and commenting. It means a lot.
Really like this restoration thanks for sharing!
Beautiful Restoration! Enjoyed watching the transformation. 👍
Thanks Lee for watching and commenting!
Nicely done. Gotta love the blue!
Thank. Agreed.
Great results and I like the Gun blue idea. Should be a good useable tool for years.
That’s the plan. I want to pass it on to my grandkids... that I don’t have yet 😁
Nice job. Clearly you know what you're doing.
Ben, you are kind. Like a lot of us, I just love tinkering in the garage and try to do the best I can.
You might be new to TH-cam, but you're a natural. Quality work!
Appreciated. Thanks 🙏
tapping with an old Estwing leather grip hammer - good job
Thanks 🙏
@@oldshovel I got an old Eskiltuna 1" I recently put a new oak handle on...bruce
I like to leave the character of the tools too. I call them memories of the steel. But, I also will put the tool in the oven heated to about 170 degrees then apply the bluing. I find I get a richer deeper bluing, touching it up with a 0000 steel wool. this came out great. on the ring however, ive put them on wooden dowels and used a plastic hammer even hard rubber to avoid dings and such.
Nice work, I like how you keep the character of the piece, not that full on grinder induced mirror finish you see too often in "restoration" videos
Thanks. I’ll agree. A mirror finish is not always the right answer. Thanks for your comment.
Very nice work. I recently did a similar chisel and had the same problem with the ring..
Awesome thanks
Fantastic restoration. One way you could secure the handle is to drill a tiny hole in the fluted metal and hammer in a small nail. If you don't want to do that, you could also fill the inside with epoxy.
Thank you for sharing.
Wow turned out fantastic....Pexto is a nice tool co.
Thanks Matt
Nice job! 😃👍
Thanks 🙏
Nice restoration. I am very happily surprised that you fully restored it, instead of remaking parts of it...seems a lot of restoration folks remake the wooden parts, or make drastic changes to the style of a tool or the decorative parts.
Glad to see you didn't, and kept the original handle and metal.
Well done! I really like the format of your videos. Cheers
Thanks 🙏
I really appreciate you reusing the original wooden handle on this project. It looks amazing!
Thanks
Looks great. I think I am going to try some Perma Blue on a few of my projects. Yours came out beautiful.
I know, I totally want to use it on everything now... LOL. Thanks for watching!
The Perma blu part. Did you use wire wool to rub onto the chisel or a cloth. It looked great.
Thank you. Jamie
Wish you made a new handle because to me it looks way too short and personally I like it to sit on top of the socket collar all flush.
Additionly chisels shouldn't typically have a curved cutting edge and should be square to the edges. The flatness of the bottom inch to the cutting edge of the backside is also of great importance with chisels. As a bevel edged chisel this is a good general purpose chisel for half laps, dovetails and the tenon part of mortise and tenons.
Loved the efficiency with the rust remover and the finish with the blue stuff. Looked real nice as a finished product.
I agree with most all of this, but am curious about the handle. I think this is about the same size as all the socket chisels I have owned...maybe even a little longer.
With socket chisels, usually the aim is for the handle to sit in your palm for pairing, and I find the short handle comfortable for that.
@@karl_alan You know what I think I'm wrong there. Personally I would like it longer as I have large hands but yeah, typically they aren't that long on typical socket chisels. My mistake, I'm more used to tang chisels.
@@ThatSpiffingChap The chisel definitely is easy to be confused on. It does have the brass ring, which is definitely more common on tang chisels, and I have never seen on a socket chisel before.
@@karl_alan That's true. I guess there's less risk of splitting the handle with a socket.
Nice restoration 👍
Thanks!
Nice work 😁
Thanks
Very good restoration bro 🔥🔥🔥👍👍👍
Thanks!
It turned out looking very good. To piggyback on Yves' comment: you should check out Paul Sellars' YT video on sharpening chisels for a clear, detailed demonstration.
Nice dang, chisel! You know, I have no idea where you are, but in Georgia this weekend is a 200+ mile yard sale called Peaches to the beaches. Anything and everything will be for sale, but it's the Tool Nirvana! I find planes, axes, chisels, and anything else for us rust lovers to reform.
I wish I was in Georgia this weekend then... Thanks again Will, for your support. The tool community is a great one.
To sharpen chisel use a piece of 1/4" plate glass with wet and dry sandpaper to get a proper sharpening. I am a quasi woodworker and when I saw the file and then the belt grinder use on that gem I cringed. Water stones or wet & dry sand paper by hand should be used on chisel. Just for your information. Power is nice but one slip and you can destroy a chisel. If you want more info let me know. Would be glad to share.Thanks for sharing
Thanks Yves. I am always open to learning to do better. I hope to not make you cringe on future videos.
Nice work, on a very deserving old tool.
Thanks Brian!
another good video.
That circle indentation at the top of the blade tells me that it was once used in a chisel plane.
Interesting. I wondered if there was a reason for that. Thanks for the comment.
The restoration (except for the sharpening) was good. The back of the chisel should be perfectly flat for a least an inch or so. You seemed to put a bevel on the back side as well as on the front much as you would do on an axe. Chisels should not have a back bevel.
My father would have loved what you did with this chisel, as would my Grandfather who was a carpenter on vessels. Instant follow!
Thanks 🙏
No platen on your small belt sander. Predictably poor result. Glad you worked it out by going to your other belt sander. Handsome old chisel. 👍
very good
Nice vid, and a nice jump in subscribers 😎
Thanks 🙏. Yes TH-cam is being nice to me. I like to think it because of all the great tool junkies out there. It’s a great community.
Just subscribed to your channel and checking it out now. Supporting my fellow ToolTubers.
@@oldshovel Cool , hope you like it. I really need to get more videos up, but really busy in my "normal" job!
I feel ya - it is not as simple as it may appear. I watched and commented on the small pick hammer. I think it turned out great.
@@oldshovel thank you!
awesome!! thanks for the video
Thanks for being the first to comment... and for watching.
No problem buddy.
Looks good. Like the bluing you used. But you you should really check out some sharpening vids. You didn't even flatten the back.
Awesome!
Thanks
you can purchase a JIG that holds chisels at proper angles to be sharpened on wet stones. I have one and chisels come out danger sharp. Sorry forgot name. Great job with the belt sanders.
I'll have to check them out. Thanks for watching!
@@oldshovel You can MAKE one with a wooden wedge.Choose your angle.
Think What a steel frame bike would look like blued 😮😮👀
I know right... I’ve thought about it. The work to clean the frame is what scares me.
Might i ask which brand belt sander you are using...and what type belt? Thanks, Rand Btw...another well done video.
I think I have that exact chisel.
Awesome I lave it
Thanks again Huda
on another vid I mentioned that boiled linseed oil is harmless, I was referring to the real thing, not the chemical crap.
what's with the copper plating thing. apart from show what else does it have. after all the plating disappears after one or two uses unless it is only for show. anyway it is a very good job
The close-ups are very responsive and accurate. What kind of recorder are you using?
Love the gun blu finishing tip to keep the vintage look!
To properly sharpen a chisel you must flatten the back first on a flattened surface. Then use a fixture on your 4 in belt sander (make this) to grind the primary bevel at the proper 25 deg angle. Then use 400 grit to dress the bevel on flat and then you can polish or microbevel if you choose. veritas or similar fixtures help control the perfect bevel. A flat back is key. Never grind the back of a chisel on a non flat surface. 3/4" MDF works with dry sand paper. You are putting in 85% of the effort and only getting 25% of the long term benefit. Done right once, maintenance is easier. Cheers!
Nice work ..keep going ...am watching you from Baghdad ...I think should wear gloves
Any time you are blueing, hot or cold, the most important step is degreasing. Even the oil from your fingers will make it splotchy. Must be perfectly oil/ grease free before blowing. Nice job not making it look factory new.
I loved the restoration. I just don't like the look of the handle. Specifically I don't like how it's not flush with the rest of the tool.
My lord buy a honing guide please. My god
Man-Musk!
You know it.
That's not a chisel you should use a hammer on, but a mallet is okay. Nothing steel, just wood, leather, plastic or rubber mallets.
if you really want it sharp, work up to 5000 or 8000 grit.
the angle of the bevel will determine a few things, like how sharp you can get it, and what it will do. a shallower bevel works better for finer work. A steeper bevel will take more material faster, but risks splitting it out rather than cutting it out leaving it much rougher when you're done chiseling. I used to use both, a bevel at nearly 45 degrees for rough in, then about 28 degrees for find finish work.
Traducemelo al español me gusta aser ese travajo
А сделать новую «ручку» слобо или не умеешь???
Restorers can not always satisfy viewers/followers. He must have elected to not replace this handle.
Honestly, theis was a terrible restoration. The most important part of the chisel is the back side. It must be sanded dead flat. You also need to use a jig to properly sharpen it to 30 degrees with a 5 degree micro bevel. Handle should have been remade on the lathe with a new piece of wood...
Ok look dude we like the restoring of tools and stuff but u must not talk all through it just add music instead of commentary
No, I hate restoring clips with music and no comments.
I’ve debated both and tested both. The stats show though that viewers drop off more without talking. I like both personally.
Nice job, but the first rule of tool restoration videos is no talking.
Good to know. On this one I’m always torn, I like both and hear both from subs. Some are love that I comment and some don’t. Thanks for the tying me know what you like. It helps. Thanks for watching.