This video popped up as a suggested, and it was great to watch you show off your machine. Love watching these OpenPNP setups. Do I need a PNP, no - do I want to build one? HELL YES! Hope to see if running in other videos. Thanks.
Great work. I built my machine a couple years ago based on same platform but sadly didn't ever complete it. ~80% done. Maybe you inspired me to get back on it. It ended up costing much more than originally anticipated but I did splurge on Clear Path Servos, precision rails and an optical breadboard base plate. I made my brackets with printed CF Nylon and they have a bit too much flex. That was probably what got me hung up on the lack of desired repeatability and made me put it away. Was hoping to save on PCB assembly cost but ended up sunk cost for an interesting pile in the corner of my shop. Not a small project by any means and I appreciate the hours you put into it.
Wow. I went the easy way (considering all the custom machined parts involved in yours) and went with a LitePlacer kit--a one stop shop for a simple PnP. But after seeing this one move, I gotta say I'm pretty tempted to upgrade. So smooth and fast! Depending on what you're producing, you may wind up finding the strip feeds a bit annoying (I sure have, and am looking at automated feeders, at least for the crazy popular stuff--looking at you 100n caps). I really like the hall sensors for homing, I've had the jitter you mention with the visual homing but you can see in my own videos that it gets the job done anyhow--even for 0402 parts without taking the time for bottom vision alignment. Only tips I might have are OpenPnP related: for short hops, the CTRL+click or moving that square in the cross-hairs is better than those base 10 motion. For longer ones and other stuff, I use a lot of scripting to get rid of repetitive tasks (I'll be releasing my most useful ones/posting a vid about that soon). Anyhow, nice machine, great work. Thanks for sharing.
I really wonder how you guys can handle the strips... I would not have the patience to peel them and orderly put them onto a table. that's just so much extra work.
Well made machine. The reason to lower on the bottom camera is because tall parts have to be inspected with raised nozzle to have the bottom of the part at the same height and some machines, including mine, can only lower the nozzles, so it has to go down for flat parts.
I tapped the end down into the (empty) can and then drilled it out for a tight fit on a piece of tubing a couple of inches long. I plugged the tubing on both ends with wax so when I inserted it that the glue would not clog it up. Then with the can upside down I used a old syringe to inject about an ounce of epoxy up into the can and then quickly inserted the tubing half way in. I just let is set upside down so the epoxy would flow down around the tubing on the inside and make a seal. I drilled out the tubing after the epoxy dried.
Do you have any details regarding the magnetic sensors/switches you use for the homing? Part numbers, links, datasheets, etc? Trying to make my CHMT48VB home better, thinking about making some adaptor to replace the microswitches it came with.
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/785-SS441A I took 5 volts off the smoothie board for power. The sensor output has about 50 ma available so I added a low current led to light when sensor is tripped. Used a refrigerator magnet to trigger it. I believe I had to reverse the input logic to the smoothie board.
음성 입력 사진 입력 Hello The function of the tray feeder and nozzle changer is impressive. Is the stepper motor a nil type that can directly connect the air hose? I'd like to know the model name.
Hi, Would you mind sharing the config file for your smoothieboard. Or providing a link to the website your got your BOM from. It would be greatly appreciated. Iv seen your cool machine and want to build my own.
Nice build! I think the mechanical endstops are overkill, since the machine should have softlimits anyway. When i build my first CNC i was thinking itˋs extra save and build them in.. however if you configure softlimits, the switches will never be used unless you have a very rare error, that your motors are getting wrong signals. With softlimits the controller will not let code or you drive the system over it’s limits and in case of mach3/cnc software even warn you if a gcode is outside of the area before letting you start it. Since you’ve already have them in, it doesn’t matter, but you could get two more pins free on your controller for other things. I’m building a PNP too, but it’s a long time project - of course:) After spending a lot of time getting a closed-loop style Z leveling to work, I’m testing some 3D printed feeder designs. I think it would be great to have just a few auto feeders for the typical 10k‘s and 0,1uf‘s. I don’t think it’s really necessary to have feeders for everything.. the tape and vision system is not bad. Keep on!
he should have used optical instead of magnetic hall effect sensors for homing, ive made a machine (Open PNP) which is having optical homing and works great
@@raghav1502 there´s not such a big difference between mechanical vs optical.. i also used booth for machines. On my PNP i don´t have any limit switches at all. I use TMC Stallguard for Y&X plus visual homing after it. And closed loop position for the Z (my Z Stepper only rotates under 360 deg, so it always knows where it is without homing).
I have it set up with just the right nozzle changeable. Just be a matter of adding another holder. My thinking was to keep a low runout 503 holder in the left all the time.
Gcode from Openpnp is sent to the smoothie board stepper drivers to step the motors. It's open loop, if I was going to make a really fast machine I would use closed loop servo system but not worth the added expense.
I would suggest making the cart a little more stable so it wobbles less. The more I see videos like this the more I want to get some of my 3D printing parts and put one together myself.
dude u dont know how to design a PCB the fiducials must be on corners and not in between somewhere and ur camera is having an error, may be 0.2mm in x and Y so just fine tune that and you will have a good PNP machine
The board was designed a long time ago, I just edited it quickly to add fiducials as a test board. All the board manufacturers have extensive instruction on how to do it and I have read several so it's not not knowing. This is just a toy for me and allows my 72 year old hands to still assemble boards. Also I have never seen and error over .05 mm and most of the time its more like .03mm . Thanks for taking the time to comment.
![My New Pick & Place Machine [Liteplacer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1FCAFfndcw/mqdefault.jpg)
![My New Pick & Place Machine [Liteplacer]](/img/tr.png)
This video popped up as a suggested, and it was great to watch you show off your machine. Love watching these OpenPNP setups. Do I need a PNP, no - do I want to build one? HELL YES! Hope to see if running in other videos. Thanks.
Great walk through of your machine! Really enjoyable to watch. Thanks for sharing.
It looks great! Nice to see a walk through like this :)
very nice to look at, thanks for all your information about your project:)
Great work. I built my machine a couple years ago based on same platform but sadly didn't ever complete it. ~80% done. Maybe you inspired me to get back on it. It ended up costing much more than originally anticipated but I did splurge on Clear Path Servos, precision rails and an optical breadboard base plate. I made my brackets with printed CF Nylon and they have a bit too much flex. That was probably what got me hung up on the lack of desired repeatability and made me put it away. Was hoping to save on PCB assembly cost but ended up sunk cost for an interesting pile in the corner of my shop. Not a small project by any means and I appreciate the hours you put into it.
Very helpful, thanks!
Great diy build, hopefully you make an Update Video about this Machine one Day, showing what you improved and if its working as you imagine
It's looking great!
Wow. I went the easy way (considering all the custom machined parts involved in yours) and went with a LitePlacer kit--a one stop shop for a simple PnP. But after seeing this one move, I gotta say I'm pretty tempted to upgrade. So smooth and fast! Depending on what you're producing, you may wind up finding the strip feeds a bit annoying (I sure have, and am looking at automated feeders, at least for the crazy popular stuff--looking at you 100n caps).
I really like the hall sensors for homing, I've had the jitter you mention with the visual homing but you can see in my own videos that it gets the job done anyhow--even for 0402 parts without taking the time for bottom vision alignment. Only tips I might have are OpenPnP related: for short hops, the CTRL+click or moving that square in the cross-hairs is better than those base 10 motion. For longer ones and other stuff, I use a lot of scripting to get rid of repetitive tasks (I'll be releasing my most useful ones/posting a vid about that soon).
Anyhow, nice machine, great work. Thanks for sharing.
nicely done :D
I really wonder how you guys can handle the strips... I would not have the patience to peel them and orderly put them onto a table. that's just so much extra work.
Great video. Will you be making any more videos on you PNP? Like the z axis or vacuum pump controls?
I hope to do a couple more when time permits. I'll try to cover those subjects in more detail. Thanks for viewing the video.
Nice machine! Where did you get those green tape holders?
Well made machine. The reason to lower on the bottom camera is because tall parts have to be inspected with raised nozzle to have the bottom of the part at the same height and some machines, including mine, can only lower the nozzles, so it has to go down for flat parts.
Thanks, I never gave that a thought.
12:00 - How did you make that vacuum reservoir canister? Did you drill out the valve from the top or ?
I tapped the end down into the (empty) can and then drilled it out for a tight fit on a piece of tubing a couple of inches long. I plugged the tubing on both ends with wax so when I inserted it that the glue would not clog it up. Then with the can upside down I used a old syringe to inject about an ounce of epoxy up into the can and then quickly inserted the tubing half way in. I just let is set upside down so the epoxy would flow down around the tubing on the inside and make a seal. I drilled out the tubing after the epoxy dried.
I see you use Juki nozzles, what do you think about them? I'm making choice, if Juki 5xx or Samsung's CP40 (or other) nozzles...
Very impressive. How are you doing solder paste?
Which controller board is this machine using? Might be in the video, but TH-cam isn't playing the video, so I can't see it at the moment 😥
SmoothieBoard
Do you have any details regarding the magnetic sensors/switches you use for the homing? Part numbers, links, datasheets, etc? Trying to make my CHMT48VB home better, thinking about making some adaptor to replace the microswitches it came with.
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/785-SS441A
I took 5 volts off the smoothie board for power. The sensor output has about 50 ma available so I added a low current led to light when sensor is tripped. Used a refrigerator magnet to trigger it. I believe I had to reverse the input logic to the smoothie board.
음성 입력 사진 입력
Hello
The function of the tray feeder and nozzle changer is impressive. Is the stepper motor a nil type that can directly connect the air hose? I'd like to know the model name.
Hi,
Would you mind sharing the config file for your smoothieboard. Or providing a link to the website your got your BOM from.
It would be greatly appreciated.
Iv seen your cool machine and want to build my own.
Nice build!
I think the mechanical endstops are overkill, since the machine should have softlimits anyway. When i build my first CNC i was thinking itˋs extra save and build them in.. however if you configure softlimits, the switches will never be used unless you have a very rare error, that your motors are getting wrong signals. With softlimits the controller will not let code or you drive the system over it’s limits and in case of mach3/cnc software even warn you if a gcode is outside of the area before letting you start it.
Since you’ve already have them in, it doesn’t matter, but you could get two more pins free on your controller for other things.
I’m building a PNP too, but it’s a long time project - of course:) After spending a lot of time getting a closed-loop style Z leveling to work, I’m testing some 3D printed feeder designs. I think it would be great to have just a few auto feeders for the typical 10k‘s and 0,1uf‘s. I don’t think it’s really necessary to have feeders for everything.. the tape and vision system is not bad.
Keep on!
Yes your right, I mentioned that you should never need them once the machine is set up.
he should have used optical instead of magnetic hall effect sensors for homing, ive made a machine (Open PNP) which is having optical homing and works great
@@raghav1502 I've used both many times.
@@raghav1502 there´s not such a big difference between mechanical vs optical.. i also used booth for machines. On my PNP i don´t have any limit switches at all. I use TMC Stallguard for Y&X plus visual homing after it. And closed loop position for the Z (my Z Stepper only rotates under 360 deg, so it always knows where it is without homing).
Does your tool holder allows you to change tools for both heads? or only for the one on the right?
I have it set up with just the right nozzle changeable. Just be a matter of adding another holder. My thinking was to keep a low runout 503 holder in the left all the time.
that tool holder should have some sort of clips or magnets to keep tools in place he actually missed it
Hi.. great to watch this video.
How do you control stepper for X and Y axis..is it a closed loop system and controlled by smoothie?
Gcode from Openpnp is sent to the smoothie board stepper drivers to step the motors. It's open loop, if I was going to make a really fast machine I would use closed loop servo system but not worth the added expense.
Looks cool but you definitely need a more rigid base. That thing is bouncing around too much for accurate placement IMO.
I would suggest making the cart a little more stable so it wobbles less. The more I see videos like this the more I want to get some of my 3D printing parts and put one together myself.
Yes, I agree, its only temporary. Makes it very easy to get all around it during development.
Good JOB. Admire you .... Become 73 This year?
Hello.
I am also working on this
Can you share config file
kiss x sis ????
no feeders? A PNP without a feeder is a glorified toy
I mentioned I'd probably build bump feeders, but I sure like to build toys.
dude u dont know how to design a PCB the fiducials must be on corners and not in between somewhere and ur camera is having an error, may be 0.2mm in x and Y so just fine tune that and you will have a good PNP machine
The board was designed a long time ago, I just edited it quickly to add fiducials as a test board. All the board manufacturers have extensive instruction on how to do it and I have read several so it's not not knowing. This is just a toy for me and allows my 72 year old hands to still assemble boards. Also I have never seen and error over .05 mm and most of the time its more like .03mm . Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hello. What kind of cameras for vision you used?