Thanks for a great intro! You, Nigel and Steve aree going to turn me into ship building from large scale aircraft. The time, dedication and sense of detail is so captivating, i cant stop watching
Hi I have this kit and Bismarck. Which is the easier build as I am new to model ship building although an experienced modeller? Great videos by the way-very informative. Huge thank you . Take care. Rob from the UK
Hi Rob, all depends on how you are going to build. If your building straight from the box there is not much difference, if you want to use aftermarket etch Then its all out there for Bismarck Scharnhorst will take a while to catch up, Pontos are working on a set but they don’t come out quickly. If your wanting to correct errors there are some big issues with Scharnhorst as I have highlighted
@@ModelkitStuff thank you so much Really helpful I have some aftermarket stuff for Bismarck so I will probably start with that. Take care and keep up the videos- they are truly great and very helpful
Nice one Jason. Thanks for posting. Love your covering statements regarding ref material... I am being told "the AOTS Iowa hull profiles are not right"... OK, I ask, what is the alternative.. "Floating drydock" is the answer.. then someone else comes along, "You cant trust floating drydock"????? As you say, I think we need to choose our ref source and just go with it. Lets face it, most "Titanic ref material is Olympic or Britannic. Lots of people don't realise Britannic was wider.. so good luck if you're using hull profiles from that ship on your Titanic!! I have to ask, without being critical, why do you call the portholes scuttles? I thought scuttles were openings that allowed waste or water to drain from the ship? Portholes are glazed openings that allow light into the ship?? Or is it Portholes on liners and scuttles on warships? I had never realised Scharnhorst had an Atlantic bow added post commissioning?? We learn something every day!! I want this kit now.. looks like some nice simple mods to correct the hull. It would be nice to know if the Bismarck had the same hydrophone config as we have the Pontos drilling templates don't we. I emailed Pontos last night to ask if they will do a set for this.. they didn't reply!!
Hi Nigel, I bet the hydrophone arrangement will be the same, I have the Bismarck Pontos set so will take a look. Scuttles 🙂 why do I call portholes scuttles, ok well as you ask my Grandfather joined the Navy in 1932, was at the fleet review in 1933, Dunkirk, sinking of the Hood, Spitzburgen, City of Benaris rescue Atlantic and artic convoys. As a kid whenever I said portholes he would stop me and say I do wish people would call them scuttles their not portholes! So Who was I to agrgue😂. However, I understand it a scuttle is a hole in a ship with a lid. The scuttles on the side of a warship all have closing lids on the inside. Just finished filming the last part will be up in a day or two.
Hi Nigel and Jason, as far as the German ships, you have to remember how many times these ships went back to be repaired and upgraded during the war (here I will refer to your fellow Brit Naval historian @Drachinifel and his excellent videos). When it comes to ship fittings, pick a year, and make sure your reference materials contain that information. It's enough to drive ya as batty as us Floridians in freezing weather. Fortunately, I have great modeling videos to watch to help warm the cochels of my heart. Can't wait to see which camo scheme you use!
Surprisingly, for the amount of detail they've added to this kit, they omitted to mould into the plastic the porthole eyebrows. All German ships had drip rails over every porthole giving the impression of an eyebrow. It's a very noticeable detail that is missing here. Even the drawings used in this episode showed them.
Thank you for doing this. I am currently "attempting" to build Tirpitz based on the 1/200 scale Bismarck kit. I'm using Stefan Draminski's 3D Kagero Super Drawing book for Tirpitz along with his book on Bismarck (similar to the book you are using for Scharnhorst). I'm a "tweener"...i.e., between trying to be 100% true to Stefan's books and just building Out Of the Box. There are some key differences between Bismarck and Tirpitz that will require taxing my scratch building skills...or perhaps 3D printing (I'm in contact with a gentleman who does 1/200 ship part printing at Shapeways who knows Stefan). One thing I'm curious about...you mentioned your Bismarck kit had the Sonar on the bow...mine does not (and in the end I choose to ignore it as there are excellent photos from the launching of Tirpitz that show that at least at that point it was NOT on the ship...I suspect it could have been added later). Thanks again...this inspires me to get back to working on Tirpitz. I would also like to do Scharnhorst (there is just something aesthetically pleasing about Kriegmarine ships). Of course I'd like to do the new 1/200 scale Enterprise CV-6 as well. I'm not sure I'll live long enough to do all of them :-)
@@ModelkitStuff At least on my 1/200 scale Bismarck they are not there. But even a 1/200 scale the difference in length is not worth trying to redo the entire hull. The big changes on deck are what I'm most concerned with. Just can't decide if I'll dive into the deep water of scratch building or try to work with the 3D printing guy to replace a key superstructure piece. I did play around with "scale" riveting on the bow and feel it gives a good if not exact representation of the real ship
Hi Jason great content! Having been away from modeling for many years now I must say that both you and @NigelsModellingBench have inspired me to jump back into the hobby! Although I did work with plastic for quite a few years (pre-kids) I don't have experience with PE and would love your thoughts on a ship build that would introduce me to the material. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Hi Steve, if you want to dip your toe in with etch I would recommend buying a kit without etch included and then maybe getting an Eduard update set. That way you can pic and choose how much of the etch you use without it detracting from the model where you don’t use it. I would recommend the Revell 1/144 HMS snowberry kit for this. The kit is excellent in its own right and the eduard etch is available direct from Eduard. If you got superstructure and railing sets that would cover the basics without getting too complicated. Keep your eye on my Warspite videos coming soon we will talk a lot about etch in those. 👍🏻
All the corrections you mentioned are, while time consuming, not that involved (if you can call filling and redrilling all of the scuttles "not that involved"!). I think you would be time and money ahead on the prop shaft blisters to just carve off the existing blisters and form up new ones from styrene sheet. Trying to use filler over that long a span may lead to a jiggly glob of putty that would be hard to mirror from one side to the other. Too bad it will be awhile before we see glue put to plastic on this one but waiting for the aftermarket is always wise. Model on, mate!
Thanks for looking in Charlie, your quite right all doable, as for prop shaft blisters filming, talking and thinking all at once is not a skill I have honed but quite right tricky in putty, but there is a solution with some thought as you say, plenty of time to ponder that.
![[Ship Model] 1/350 IJN aircraft carrier Akagi [Model Making Part 5 Bridge Photo-etch]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for a great intro! You, Nigel and Steve aree going to turn me into ship building from large scale aircraft. The time, dedication and sense of detail is so captivating, i cant stop watching
I'm doing a 1/350 scale on this ship soon . And i must buy that book. Will watch your videos.
It’s little blocks of zinc for preventing seaweed growing on moving parts in this case rudder
Thanks for this video. I have AOTS as well. I have Halinski Card Model Scharnhorst 2/3 2010. This is good reference.
Hi I have this kit and Bismarck. Which is the easier build as I am new to model ship building although an experienced modeller?
Great videos by the way-very informative. Huge thank you . Take care. Rob from the UK
Hi Rob, all depends on how you are going to build. If your building straight from the box there is not much difference, if you want to use aftermarket etch Then its all out there for Bismarck Scharnhorst will take a while to catch up, Pontos are working on a set but they don’t come out quickly.
If your wanting to correct errors there are some big issues with Scharnhorst as I have highlighted
@@ModelkitStuff thank you so much
Really helpful
I have some aftermarket stuff for Bismarck so I will probably start with that.
Take care and keep up the videos- they are truly great and very helpful
Nice one Jason. Thanks for posting. Love your covering statements regarding ref material... I am being told "the AOTS Iowa hull profiles are not right"... OK, I ask, what is the alternative.. "Floating drydock" is the answer.. then someone else comes along, "You cant trust floating drydock"????? As you say, I think we need to choose our ref source and just go with it. Lets face it, most "Titanic ref material is Olympic or Britannic. Lots of people don't realise Britannic was wider.. so good luck if you're using hull profiles from that ship on your Titanic!!
I have to ask, without being critical, why do you call the portholes scuttles? I thought scuttles were openings that allowed waste or water to drain from the ship? Portholes are glazed openings that allow light into the ship?? Or is it Portholes on liners and scuttles on warships?
I had never realised Scharnhorst had an Atlantic bow added post commissioning?? We learn something every day!! I want this kit now.. looks like some nice simple mods to correct the hull. It would be nice to know if the Bismarck had the same hydrophone config as we have the Pontos drilling templates don't we. I emailed Pontos last night to ask if they will do a set for this.. they didn't reply!!
Hi Nigel, I bet the hydrophone arrangement will be the same, I have the Bismarck Pontos set so will take a look. Scuttles 🙂 why do I call portholes scuttles, ok well as you ask my Grandfather joined the Navy in 1932, was at the fleet review in 1933, Dunkirk, sinking of the Hood, Spitzburgen, City of Benaris rescue Atlantic and artic convoys. As a kid whenever I said portholes he would stop me and say I do wish people would call them scuttles their not portholes! So Who was I to agrgue😂. However, I understand it a scuttle is a hole in a ship with a lid. The scuttles on the side of a warship all have closing lids on the inside. Just finished filming the last part will be up in a day or two.
Hi Nigel and Jason, as far as the German ships, you have to remember how many times these ships went back to be repaired and upgraded during the war (here I will refer to your fellow Brit Naval historian @Drachinifel and his excellent videos). When it comes to ship fittings, pick a year, and make sure your reference materials contain that information. It's enough to drive ya as batty as us Floridians in freezing weather. Fortunately, I have great modeling videos to watch to help warm the cochels of my heart. Can't wait to see which camo scheme you use!
Surprisingly, for the amount of detail they've added to this kit, they omitted to mould into the plastic the porthole eyebrows. All German ships had drip rails over every porthole giving the impression of an eyebrow. It's a very noticeable detail that is missing here. Even the drawings used in this episode showed them.
Thank you for doing this. I am currently "attempting" to build Tirpitz based on the 1/200 scale Bismarck kit. I'm using Stefan Draminski's 3D Kagero Super Drawing book for Tirpitz along with his book on Bismarck (similar to the book you are using for Scharnhorst). I'm a "tweener"...i.e., between trying to be 100% true to Stefan's books and just building Out Of the Box. There are some key differences between Bismarck and Tirpitz that will require taxing my scratch building skills...or perhaps 3D printing (I'm in contact with a gentleman who does 1/200 ship part printing at Shapeways who knows Stefan). One thing I'm curious about...you mentioned your Bismarck kit had the Sonar on the bow...mine does not (and in the end I choose to ignore it as there are excellent photos from the launching of Tirpitz that show that at least at that point it was NOT on the ship...I suspect it could have been added later). Thanks again...this inspires me to get back to working on Tirpitz. I would also like to do Scharnhorst (there is just something aesthetically pleasing about Kriegmarine ships). Of course I'd like to do the new 1/200 scale Enterprise CV-6 as well. I'm not sure I'll live long enough to do all of them :-)
The sonar is. Ot on my Bismarck. I believe the the Tirpitz is longer than Bismarck, Tamiya mistakenly did there 1/350 kits on the same hull I think.
@@ModelkitStuff At least on my 1/200 scale Bismarck they are not there. But even a 1/200 scale the difference in length is not worth trying to redo the entire hull. The big changes on deck are what I'm most concerned with. Just can't decide if I'll dive into the deep water of scratch building or try to work with the 3D printing guy to replace a key superstructure piece. I did play around with "scale" riveting on the bow and feel it gives a good if not exact representation of the real ship
Hi Jason great content! Having been away from modeling for many years now I must say that both you and @NigelsModellingBench have inspired me to jump back into the hobby! Although I did work with plastic for quite a few years (pre-kids) I don't have experience with PE and would love your thoughts on a ship build that would introduce me to the material. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
Hi Steve, if you want to dip your toe in with etch I would recommend buying a kit without etch included and then maybe getting an Eduard update set. That way you can pic and choose how much of the etch you use without it detracting from the model where you don’t use it. I would recommend the Revell 1/144 HMS snowberry kit for this. The kit is excellent in its own right and the eduard etch is available direct from Eduard. If you got superstructure and railing sets that would cover the basics without getting too complicated. Keep your eye on my Warspite videos coming soon we will talk a lot about etch in those. 👍🏻
Wasn't it zinc that was added to props and rudders to stop corrosion?
Yes it was thank you thank you👍🏻
Really nice. It looks like you have your work cut out for you! See you next time.
The bow is wrong..right? Too short,it seems the bow of the bismarck..
All the corrections you mentioned are, while time consuming, not that involved (if you can call filling and redrilling all of the scuttles "not that involved"!). I think you would be time and money ahead on the prop shaft blisters to just carve off the existing blisters and form up new ones from styrene sheet. Trying to use filler over that long a span may lead to a jiggly glob of putty that would be hard to mirror from one side to the other. Too bad it will be awhile before we see glue put to plastic on this one but waiting for the aftermarket is always wise. Model on, mate!
Thanks for looking in Charlie, your quite right all doable, as for prop shaft blisters filming, talking and thinking all at once is not a skill I have honed but quite right tricky in putty, but there is a solution with some thought as you say, plenty of time to ponder that.
Those `strips` are zinc anodes helps stop corrosion.
thats right
Well.. I ordered one today from Germany and also the book from Amazon.. AND IT'S YOUR FAULT JASON!!!
Your Welcome, you may enjoy this, very dramatic at the end. th-cam.com/video/7m8KXU_Yngc/w-d-xo.html