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Should You Overexpose V-Log? | GH5 Exposure & Latitude Test
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ส.ค. 2019
- Audio got a bit messed up in the export, noticed it to late :/
All test were done using ISO 400 (which is native for V-Log)
Simple Latitude Test: 1:35
Overexposure/Underexposure Test: 4:58
How should you expose V-Log L on the Panasonic GH5? In this video we'll try to answer that question.
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I just watched all your tests videos. Amazing! 4 years later and they are still very useful! Thanks!
Thanks! Glad I could help :)
Useful video very clearly explained. However a further video shot outside on a sunny bright day might also be very useful to further illustrate your points.
Thank. Great point, totally agree.
This video was extremely helpful, thank you so much!
No problem, glad I could help :)
Very helpful with clear examples. Thank you.
I have a gh5s and am trying to master v-log, I shoot small real estate and need help- what aperture, shutter speed and iso should I have it set at? Should I keep aperture at lowest point (2.8) always, and then adjust just iso? Or just shutter speed? Please help and thank you!!!
How about gh6?
hey, is it better with +2 exposure using a dark filter?
Man...u really know ur stuff. My question is if I walk into a scene without a grey card...how would I know if im exposed -2, -1, 0, +1 or +2 on a GH5 Vlog? Let's say a real estate shoot. Normally what i do is set exposure using the Waveform chart in my GH5 and spread the waves in each room of a real estate shoot as far as they go without clipping the highlights...unless its the windows of course. I focus on spreading the waveform of my walls so they are on 80--90 IRE on CINE-D. How do I follow ur method of -1 , 0, +1 etc
Ok, I'll try to answer as two seperate questions: 1, how would I know if Im exposed -2, -1, 0, +1 or +2?
2, How do i follow ur method of -1, 0, +1 etc?
1: There are many ways of getting a "correct" exposure, you could use a grey card, light meter, false color and use skin tone as a reference etc. Those are ways of getting a technically "correct" exposure, in other words, exposing for middle grey, where a 18% grey card would show up as middle grey. If you know at what stop you would get a "correct" exposure, then its easy to open up or close down a stop to over or underexpose.
The way I interpret your method of exposing is similar to ETTR, expose to the right. Which basically means expose as bright as possible without losing detail (atleast in important parts of the image). You'll give your cameras sensor plenty of light to work with and get clean images, but you dont really know how much overexposed you are. And therefore dont really know if you should push it back down by one stop or two stops for example. Its a pretty good way of exposing for run and gun type shooting but for controlled environments like narrative it will make matching shots much harder since its hard to quantify.
2: The method of over or underexposing an image by a stop is just that, allowing one stop more or one stop less light to reach the sensor compared to the intended exposure. So even if you were to expose by eye only using your monitor, once you've found your desired exposure simply expose one stop brighter. You could do this by opening up the lens by one stop, using one stop less of ND etc. Now your image will be one stop brighter than intended. So when you get in to post you simply lower the exposure back down by one stop and you have your intended exposure again, but this time with less noise.
Hey ! Quick question : You said the meter on the camera is adjusting when you are in VLOG mode if I'm right ? That means when we are in VLOG we should expose normally, but internqlly it's overexposed by one stop ? Or we need to overexpose VLOG if we want it to be overexposed ? Don't know if that makes sense ahahah
If you use the cameras built in meter the meter will say 0 when the image is technically one stop overexposed (if the meter is looking at a 18% grey card).
@@carlscinema7086 OMG so that means I overexposed all my footage because in VLOG mode I was always 3 bars up the normal exposure :( BUT many thanks for this tip !!! So that means as well that with when the histogram turns white it's the good overall exposure for the gh5 as well in VLOG mode right ?
@@laurenthenry If you expose using just the meter in the camera, that's correct. I generally don't pay much attention to the meter in the camera since it's calibrated to expose to middle grey (18% grey) so if you scene is all white or all black, the camera will say it's either over or underexposed, even if it's exposed using a lightmeter for example. That's because the camera doesn't know what it's looking at.
@@carlscinema7086 Many thanks !! Always learning the gh5 even 2 years after I purchased it. This camera is amazing ! 😍
@@laurenthenry Glad i could help :)
Great video man!
Thanks dood!
Question, I am using zebras and the waveform to help balance my exposure and that’s helping, but now once that’s done, my question is what do I prioritize to lighten my exposure - aperture, shutterspeed or iso? Like should I keep aperture at a minimum (2.8 on my lens) and then use shutter speed and/or iso to adjust the exposure? Which one should I keep low and which should I be adjusting to move the waveform ? I obviously want to stay away from noise as much as possible, Someone please help I am dying trying to figure this out and I can’t!!!!
When shooting video you generally want to stick to the 180 degree shutter rule. That means if you're camera has shutter angle, set it to 180 degrees, for shutter speed that would be one over double your frame rate, so 25fps would mean 1/50 shutter. That leaves us with aperture and ISO. Generally stick with your cameras base ISO (V-Log L on the GH5 is 400), but if there isn't enough light to expose at that ISO then you would have to either add more light or raise the ISO. So that leaves the aperture as the main component for exposure changes. But since the aperture also affects depth of field you might not want to shoot at F22 in bright daylight. That's where ND filters come in, allowing you to cut the amount of light and open up the aperture. But based on your question I would try and look at more general exposure videos and tips and not specific videos on how to try and maximize V-Log specifically. I'm working on a new series focusing on more basic concepts at the moment, so be on the lookout for that.
So what's the answer? Overexpose +1-2?
As i said in the end of the video, i would generally overexpose by one stop and then push it down in post to get cleaner shadows. But it really depends on the scene since you sacrifice dynamic range in the highlights when doing so.
HLG på GH5, hur bör jag exponera för det?
HLG is a bit tricky since it's a hybrid between SDR and HDR and your in-camera viewing luts work a bit differently. But when I shot a project a while back, before I got V-log, I tried to expose it similar to how I would expose natural for example.
when u said over expose by 1, does it mean EV should be +1?
I typically dont use the built in meter to judge the exposure, because it doesnt know what it is looking at. Its goal is to bring the exposure to middle grey, so if you have a grey card and the meter set to "spot meter" then it would give you an accurate reading. If not, the camera might say the scene is underexposed but in reality its just full of black items, but they should be darker than middle grey. But regarding the EV, in v-log Panasonic has already accounted for overexposing so 0EV (if pointed at a grey card) is already overexposed by 1 stop.
@@carlscinema7086 do you always use spot meter? (for exposing) or can u use multiple meter and use wave form to check grey card ire?
I leave it at spot but i typically almost never use it. Tend to use false color on my monitor or the waveform. Yes, you can 👍