Remove upper and lower styrofoam. Requires a T15 torx and 1/4" wrench. I reused the existing gasket by removing it carefully. Use 600 Deg. food grade silicone and replaced the gasket. Squeeze a tiny bead of silicone on the gasket once it is replaced. No mess if you use a squeez tube and nozzle. Carefully replace the cover and screws. Alternate the screw tightening. Let it set overnight. Just replaced my tank and it is working. No leaks!!! If you use a quality water filter in front of the water heater, there will be little or no scale. Mine was in service for 4 yrs and after opening it, there was no scale or crud in the tank. Good Luck!
Thanks for the video. Its good to see people repairing these things. Mine is leaking at the seal that holds the heating element in. About 1 drip per minute. Of course they won't sell me the part!
I had a leak on a 3 year old tank. First 4 numbers of serial number is manufactured year and month. Ordered the silicone from Amazon and reused the spline gasket. Covered gasket with silicone. Waited 24 hours and it worked. It’s been 3 days since I fixed it.
If you slide the vent tube off the top of the plastic expansion vessel the whole top insulation just lifts off and you have easy access to the torx screws. Makes life a lot easier to tighten them properly in sequence ensuring that the earthing lead is re-attached, Also use way less food grade silicone, you only need a thin bead thats slightly higher that the casing lip for it to compress and make a good seal. Whilst its apart its also a good idea to run some descaler through the expansion vessel as its prone to scaling up and causes the tap (faucet) to spit.
follow up, used some different sealer and kept the old gasket, and it's kept seal for a few days now. I bedded the bottom with sealant, laid in the original gasket, and bedded the top. Then assembled it and tightened the screws 'most' of the way. Not FULLY tight, just mostly snug, enough to press out the sealant but not entirely. Then I let the sealant cure for 2 days, tightened the screws a bit more snug and gave it a go. Worked!
Your heating element was remarkably clean. We've had ours for two years and I was considering cleaning the element with Descal, the espresso maker de-scaler. I can hear the thing when the element is cycled on. But maybe I'll wait, especially since there is no off-the shelf gasket to pop in. Maybe I'll just get a spool of gasket spline and use silicone for the inevitable seam where the two sides of the length of material meet.
That';s fine for sediment (your whole house should have a sediment filter) but if a conventional filter could remove minerals, then nobody would need a water softener system. Filter or not, if your water is hard there will be scale. @@phillew46
@@goldenstatepicker I fixed my leaky one yesterday by tighten all the nuts and no leak so far. I think you can apply little (1/16") of the RTV under the groove and install the gasket back should also solve the leaky issue.
Helpful! But note that over time these tend to leak after cooling down and will stop leaking after the tank is back to temperature. Likely the metal tank expands to re-seal at the gasket.
Hi, I have this device, it works for about a year and a half and this week it knocked out the electricity at my house, where and what should be checked and do you know the problem?
The four ways these hot water units fail is 1) by the 2-piece tank seal gasket leaking (as you see in this video), 2) a silicone tubing failure, 3) heating element failure (open circuit and/or leakage of current to ground due to cracked/breached element jacket)), 4) On occasion it is a faulty thermostat . Depending upon the model you have, there are simple metal contact thermostats, and there are ones controlled with integrated circuitry; both types can fail. All are fixable, the most problematic being the heating element since an exact replacement part is not available. There are some similar heating element workarounds. Don't give up on your malfunctioning unit if it needs a simple fix, and if you DO swap it out for a replacement uni,t save the old parts which did not fail, be it a good thermostat or heating element (should read about 19 ohms for the 750W unit) for repairing the replacement unit it when it fails. And it will.
@@deankirby5966 I ended up taking mine apart and drained all the water from the expansion part. I made sure the float ball was loose and rattling free. I then made sure it was seated correctly and kept the unit level while putting it back in place. It has leaked through the vent since. I consider it fixed, for now.
It’s a lot easier to unfasten and refasten those bolts if you take the top plastic part and styrofoam off. Then you just hold the nut with pliers or a small monkey wrench while you undo the screws with a screwdriver (mine were Torx heads).
1. Silicone return tubing ages and cracks with heat expansion. Poor placement of the tube near the heating tank. 2. Rubber Gasket seal between the tank halves. Not available after market. 3. Insinkerator customer service remedy is 25% off of a new $300+ tank. No thanks. 1. Silicone tubing is less $1.00 per foot. You'll need 18" of tubing. 2. Dow Corning 1892070 732 Clear Multi-Purpose Sealant, -60 to 180 Degree C, 300 mL less than $10.00 on Amazon. Small straight blade screwdriver to open the outer casing. Small Torx T10 bit for the tank screw. Maybe 45 mins of your time.
Remove upper and lower styrofoam. Requires a T15 torx and 1/4" wrench. I reused the existing gasket by removing it carefully. Use 600 Deg. food grade silicone and replaced the gasket. Squeeze a tiny bead of silicone on the gasket once it is replaced. No mess if you use a squeez tube and nozzle. Carefully replace the cover and screws. Alternate the screw tightening. Let it set overnight. Just replaced my tank and it is working. No leaks!!! If you use a quality water filter in front of the water heater, there will be little or no scale. Mine was in service for 4 yrs and after opening it, there was no scale or crud in the tank. Good Luck!
Its not a T15..thats too large..i just tried it
We are now at 1 year 8 months and it has held up nicely.
I appreciate the update - might do the same thing myself.
Thank you.. 2years later?
Thanks for the video. Its good to see people repairing these things. Mine is leaking at the seal that holds the heating element in. About 1 drip per minute. Of course they won't sell me the part!
Nope you can't get the gasket.
I had a leak on a 3 year old tank. First 4 numbers of serial number is manufactured year and month. Ordered the silicone from Amazon and reused the spline gasket. Covered gasket with silicone. Waited 24 hours and it worked. It’s been 3 days since I fixed it.
Nice to hear you have it fixed. Mine is still going strong.
If you slide the vent tube off the top of the plastic expansion vessel the whole top insulation just lifts off and you have easy access to the torx screws. Makes life a lot easier to tighten them properly in sequence ensuring that the earthing lead is re-attached, Also use way less food grade silicone, you only need a thin bead thats slightly higher that the casing lip for it to compress and make a good seal. Whilst its apart its also a good idea to run some descaler through the expansion vessel as its prone to scaling up and causes the tap (faucet) to spit.
So far the unit has held up fine thanks for adding to the video.
I'm about to fix mine this way. I've also bought some stainless screws and nuts to replace the cheap ones that rusted.
Mine is still going strong. Weird that the company has no gasket option.
First attempt didn't work. Perhaps not enough silicone sealant.
You link to a food safe silicone, but that's not what you used in the clip.
follow up, used some different sealer and kept the old gasket, and it's kept seal for a few days now. I bedded the bottom with sealant, laid in the original gasket, and bedded the top. Then assembled it and tightened the screws 'most' of the way. Not FULLY tight, just mostly snug, enough to press out the sealant but not entirely. Then I let the sealant cure for 2 days, tightened the screws a bit more snug and gave it a go. Worked!
Thank you!!! Customer support wanted me to replace ours but I have a feeling the silicone will fix the problem. Just waiting for for it to dry now 🤞
Try adding Teflon Tape layer over the original gasket. Plumbers sometimes use Teflon tape to prevent leaks.
It’s held up nicely! No issues as of today’
How's it doing today?!
Thank you! This is the exact problem I have. Can’t find a gasket, so I’m going to Home Depot for high temp food contact safe sealant.
If its the seal you are going to be happy happy! Mine is still holding perfectly.
This worked for me....thank you so much!
Glad it worked out
Your heating element was remarkably clean. We've had ours for two years and I was considering cleaning the element with Descal, the espresso maker de-scaler. I can hear the thing when the element is cycled on. But maybe I'll wait, especially since there is no off-the shelf gasket to pop in. Maybe I'll just get a spool of gasket spline and use silicone for the inevitable seam where the two sides of the length of material meet.
Use a quality water filter in front of the water inlet.
That';s fine for sediment (your whole house should have a sediment filter) but if a conventional filter could remove minerals, then nobody would need a water softener system. Filter or not, if your water is hard there will be scale. @@phillew46
Thanks for the video. You can buy RTV 4500 Food Contact Safe High Strength Silicone Sealant. It is around $7 and good up to 350F.
Mine has held up for nearly a year and a half now no issues.
@@goldenstatepicker I fixed my leaky one yesterday by tighten all the nuts and no leak so far. I think you can apply little (1/16") of the RTV under the groove and install the gasket back should also solve the leaky issue.
Helpful! But note that over time these tend to leak after cooling down and will stop leaking after the tank is back to temperature. Likely the metal tank expands to re-seal at the gasket.
toyNN Sugoi mine hasn’t leaked once since the new silicone gasket. Working just fine.
Hi, I have this device, it works for about a year and a half and this week it knocked out the electricity at my house, where and what should be checked and do you know the problem?
I only no how to replace the gasket as shown in the video.
The four ways these hot water units fail is 1) by the 2-piece tank seal gasket leaking (as you see in this video), 2) a silicone tubing failure, 3) heating element failure (open circuit and/or leakage of current to ground due to cracked/breached element jacket)), 4) On occasion it is a faulty thermostat . Depending upon the model you have, there are simple metal contact thermostats, and there are ones controlled with integrated circuitry; both types can fail. All are fixable, the most problematic being the heating element since an exact replacement part is not available. There are some similar heating element workarounds. Don't give up on your malfunctioning unit if it needs a simple fix, and if you DO swap it out for a replacement uni,t save the old parts which did not fail, be it a good thermostat or heating element (should read about 19 ohms for the 750W unit) for repairing the replacement unit it when it fails. And it will.
My SSRV1 Insinkerator is tripping the exterior fuse. is this an easy fix? Is there a reset on this unit? I don't see any and no access panel
Thanks
If anyone taking apart, please measure the o-ring size and post here. There are 4 1/4" inches x 1/8" available that might fit.
Is there a brand of these that don't leak in the first place?
Not sure if there is another one.
GREAT job & helpful video!!! Thank you!
Thank you sir!
I hope that's food grade Silicone!
I think I will use less Silicone and keep it 1/8" off the inside rim. I don't want silicone-tasting tea in the morning.
Isn't this for the garbage disposal? Why would it be food grade? Nothing comes out of the sink that you actually consume
@@Amandahugginkizz It dispenses hot water.
@@charlie.on.youtube oh I thought it was a garbage disposal lol all i read was insinkerator
Dude you are way to handy for me. I have no skills.
Commonwealth Picker no way paying $280 for basically a gasket. The things we find thrifting.
I have a problem with water coming out the vent tube. It's there any tips on how to diagnose that problem?
That might be difficult. If the seal around those tubes is broken. I haven’t run into that problem yet. You
Might have to get a new one.
Mine too! Did you find a solution?
Same problem here.
@@deankirby5966 I ended up taking mine apart and drained all the water from the expansion part. I made sure the float ball was loose and rattling free. I then made sure it was seated correctly and kept the unit level while putting it back in place. It has leaked through the vent since. I consider it fixed, for now.
Might be turned up too hot, water is boiling internally, try turning temp down
It’s a lot easier to unfasten and refasten those bolts if you take the top plastic part and styrofoam off. Then you just hold the nut with pliers or a small monkey wrench while you undo the screws with a screwdriver (mine were Torx heads).
David Hooper Tried to do the best with what I had. Anyhow it’s still going strong. Thanks for watching
Would have been helpful to see it reassembled
It's pretty straight forward. Many others got it.
While you have it open check the plastic nipples for cracks...mine had one. Sealed it with super glue then the 600 degree silicone
Mine is still running. Thanks.
1. Silicone return tubing ages and cracks with heat expansion. Poor placement of the tube near the heating tank.
2. Rubber Gasket seal between the tank halves. Not available after market.
3. Insinkerator customer service remedy is 25% off of a new $300+ tank.
No thanks. 1. Silicone tubing is less $1.00 per foot. You'll need 18" of tubing. 2. Dow Corning 1892070 732 Clear Multi-Purpose Sealant, -60 to 180 Degree C, 300 mL less than $10.00 on Amazon.
Small straight blade screwdriver to open the outer casing. Small Torx T10 bit for the tank screw. Maybe 45 mins of your time.
Your faucet is backwards though 😂
I know. It was on purpose. LOL.