Ep 7: How to make Inset Doors and Inset Drawers / Build inset cabinet doors - DIY Kitchen Cabinets
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Hey kitchen DIY woodworkers! Episode 7 of making custom kitchen cabinets. This is the meat of how to make inset cabinet doors. An inset door can be difficult to make, but I discuss how to start out with a slightly larger door and trim it to size. This helps get a consistent gap that looks great on inset doors. As usual, I'm using biscuit joiner and table saw, and I highlight the details of how I make these doors. The doors are made out of alder; solid alder outside, and ½" plywood on the inside. Follow along to learn how to remodel your kitchen by watching me build my own cabinets in this entire series.
* View the entire DIY kitchen cabinet playlist: bit.ly/cabinet...
* Download FREE kitchen cabinet SketchUp model: bit.ly/kitchen...
Related: Ep 4 - Where I do some similar cuts and go into more detail: • Ep 4: End Panel Cabine...
Here is the complete "how to make cabinets" series:
* Ep 1: Intro to building cabinets: • Ep 1: Introduction for...
* Ep 2: Making kitchen plans from SketchUp: • Ep 2: Making Kitchen C...
* Ep 3: Making cabinet face frames: • Ep3: Making the Face F...
* Ep 4: Making cabinet end panels / sides: • Ep 4: End Panel Cabine...
* Ep 5: Making cabinet base: • Ep 5: How to make a ca...
* Ep 6: Face frames to cabinets: • Ep 6: How to Attach a ...
* YOU ARE HERE Ep 7: Making inset doors and inset drawers: • Ep 7: How to make Inse...
* Ep 8: Making dovetail drawers with a Leigh jig: • Ep 8: Making Dovetail ...
* Ep 9: How to spray finish cabinets: • Ep 9: How to Finish Ki...
* Ep 10: Making kitchen concrete countertops: • Ep 10: Making Concrete...
* Ep 11: Making epoxy river table bar top: • Ep 11: Epoxy River Bar...
* Ep 12: Design decisions - reflecting on the good and bad: • Ep 12: The BAD and the...
* I also did companion kitchen remodel / remodeling blog posts, as sometimes textual information is easier to understand than videos: bit.ly/2TWGabU
#woodworking #kitchen #DIY #kitchencabinets
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Thanks!
Corbin Dunn
www.corbinstre...
ww.redwoodmonk... - My woodworking project portfolio and available products
Thank you Corbin! You've just saved my project
Awesome!
This will change your life.
Thank you for the thorough & professional video
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for sharing your methodology! I found it very informative.
Glad it helped!
Corbin I stumbled upon your channel looking for inset door ideas and I have to say - you my friend are a breath of fresh air among the plethora of woodworking channels some rivaling The New Yankee Workshop - NOT. No ones replacing Norm right! You have an enjoyable low key knowledge style - keep with it you have a new subscriber! Jeff
Thanks Jeff! I've been bit busy lately, but I hope to get back to making some videos soon.
Hi Corbin I appreciate your video i just found your channel and im looking forward to checking out your high-end kitchen build from start to finish. Alder wood is a nice idea i never thought about that!
Awesome! Yeah, alder is relatively cheap; it is a fairly soft hardwood, and does dent easier than something a bit more dense, like cherry or oak. I dropped one door when I was finishing them and it now has a dent in it. Ah well!
Hi Corbin, how far past the bottom of your cabinet do the doors hang? Other words, how long are you stiles - an inch overhang at bottom? Great series, I’m preparing to build out my kitchen as well
I don't quite recall; it almost doesn't matter how far you do it, as it is more for aesthetics than anything else. If you have Sketchup download the file I made for it to check it out!
Thank you! Very helpful!
Cool, thanks for watching!
Very clever ideas that I can use.l
Awesome! Glad to give you some ideas.
Nothing looks quiet as nice as Inset doors. I am building a cabinetry around my aquarium and really want to give this a try, though I doubt I have the precision and may just go full overlay
I'm sure you can do it! It just takes time and patience. But...having said that, I probably will do overlay doors on my next kitchen ;)
Great series. Very helpful. It doesn't look like you used a jointer on the boards, or maybe you left that out of the video? How are you getting them straight and flat?
Hi James -- you are right, I don't use a jointer! I bought S3S boards to save time -- surfaced 3 sides. I take the smooth edge and run it against the tablesaw fence to get the opposite edge parallel. Generally, the factory surfaced edge will still be rough from the sawmill so I will flip it over and take off 1/16" to 1/8" more to get it flat and smooth. The small cut also makes it more accurate and less prone to nicks from the saw blade.
Nice work dude! That dato kick-back must have been scary.
I've recently started working with lumber and it's driving me nuts. It's just not dimensionally stable like metal or plastic.
Yeah, that kick back wasn't too scary since I had the jig above it and kept my fingers well away. Wood is sometimes wacky to work with; rip a board and it can twist a ton when the internal pressures are released.
Awesome videos and thank you for taking the time to do them! I had a question about the dado cuts, could you not use the router and a jig for those and same with the bisket joints? I always use my table saw as a last resort when needing to cut into small pieces where you have to get up close and personal.
Hi Rod, Yes, definitely! A router table would be an excellent way to do the groove, and probably a LOT safer than the tablesaw. I'm pretty confident with my saw because it is a "SawStop", but if I didn't have one I would probably use a router bit sized to fit the plywood (or slightly undersized, and take two passes, adjusting on the second pass to the required width, which I frequently do on the tablesaw setup too). The biscuit jointer is fairly safe...I've never felt any kick back or concerns with it, but if you don't have one you could cut grooves on a router table and use some tenon sticks inside them.
Looks like you might benefit from learning how or using a hand plane to fit those doors.
Yes! A hand plane can make quick work for fitting doors - this is a great tip!
@@CorbinDunn another way to trim those doors to fit is using a tapering jig. I just fit a door today using my flat tapering jig I made just for this purpose and it works great. I started with a plane but it blew out one corner so I switched to the tapering jig.Your probably like me, not so good with the hand planes so I try and avoid them.Always seems to be to much feteling around with them to get them adjusted and sharp.
@@dannyh.7490 Another great idea, thanks!
If you have one, I think a track saw would make cutting the tapers a piece of cake
That is a great idea! I do have one, and I never thought about that.
Hi there, have question for you. What is the frame overlay in regards to the cabinet interior.
Are you familiar with SketchUp? The description has a link to my plans/drawings I did in 3D. You can download them (free) and virtually measure any part you are curious about. The overlay sides varied..1/2" to something larger (I forget exactly what), and it depended on where I put the vertical cabinet sides. I talk about this a bit in some earlier videos. The inset is important; you have to get specific hardware for the specific hardware depth you are using. Sometimes I would skip the hardware, and simply block it out with 1/2" plywood, which was way cheaper. So, look at Blum's data sheet and use that as a guide for the sizes you should do. And/or, look at my drawings/plans in SketchUp. Let me know if you have more questions!
Question about inset cherry doors. They are two doors that open in the space instead of just one. Do you suggest 3/32" gap between the doors? I've never done two doors and never done inset doors. The hinges also didn't come with instruction and Blum sent me instructions to a similar hinge saying it will work with the Blum hinge I got on Amazon. That required me to get a millimeter ruler since all Blum measurements are in mm. I plan to experiment with boring and mounting hinges on stock material before ruining my last cherry wood doors. Thanks.
Hi David - yes, I also use 3/32" in between the two doors. The center section in the video above is a double door with no divider. Using the same gap width helps with consistency. I also use Blum hinges; which ones did you get? You probably got some of the "clip top ones - as seen on their site - www.blum.com/us/en/products/hingesystems/clip-top-blumotion/overview/ . You also have to get the matching mounting plate which depends on how your face frame is (or, if it is faceless, you need the 0-height plate). I didn't understand that at first. Yes, they list in mm, but inches work fine, and their sheets have a conversion on them, so I did all my layout in inches. Let me find the layout sheet..
So, download their "brochure" on their website - www.blum.com/us/en/products/hingesystems/clip-top-blumotion/downloads-videos/ - that is also the install instructions. It takes some time to read and really understand. Scroll to the last page for the mm to inch conversion chart. I did buy a 35 mm boring bit for the holes. I didn't use any jigs for the cabinet doors, but I did buy the hole alignment jig for making drawers.
@@CorbinDunn Yes, Blum sent me that and which page to look at in the pdf. But my hinges are not in their catalog (don't sell them anymore) and the plate is different. I bought a nice 6-inch ruler with millimeters on one side and inches (down to 1/16" inches) on the other side which is helpful (visually easy to correlate inches and millimeters). I'm doing the trial-and-error method. (I also won't buy hinges on Amazon again given they sell old stock no longer supported by the manufacturer.)
@@CorbinDunn I found the 1 3/8" boring bit worked very nicely on this hinge. I used their specs for the part in the door and it seems to work. It's the plate on the side that has different hole locations than the Blum brochure. Thanks for your help.
@@CorbinDunn I figured out using the same gap for between the doors would be best. The hinges I got were these (on Amazon): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DT3U4U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You want a “3-third, 2nd inch gap around”…. Bruh… too early to figure out what that means 😆
Hah! Was that the text-to-voice? I bet it should have been 3/32" gap around.
Whoa doggie!!! 8 minutes in got a little pitchy! I had a piece of wood hit me once in the ribs. I've all but given up table saws now. I keep thinking that I just didn't know the rules ... and I'm not sure you were following them either. 😬 Please be careful!!!!
Yup! I always stand a bit to the side -- notice I do this in the video, but even so, this is the most dangerous part of making these cabinets. I've had kickback only a few times in my life, and it was before I had a SawStop, where I always use the anti-kickback teeth and riving knife (except in blind cuts like this!). Even with the anti-kickback, I did have a piece kick back onetime due to a knot in the wood breaking off a bit and hitting the wall behind me. If you are worried about using a table saw: buy a SawStop. I wouldn't ever buy any other brand. It has flesh sensing technology which is amazing and can restore your confidence in using the table saw. However, it isn't a substitute for common safety practices: don't stand inline with the blade, keep fingers a safe distance away, keep the blade only a bit above the piece you are cutting (ie: about a tooth).
Corbin. Dude. It's way safer and way easier to mill the groves with a router set up with a fence. Just get a three or two flute bit the size of the panel. I mark the table just like you do to have a stoping point for the stiles. I generally make two passes taking 1/8 inch each pass. It's a lot easier on the blade doing this. I have also stopped using biscuits for those joints . I know it's expensive but I got a Domino and there is no comparison for speed and strength . Also why do you not make your top rail taller than the rail under the drawer ? they look the same height . The lip of the counter will obscure the top edge and the frame will look out of balance right ? just curious not judging. Good video.
Hi Art, YES, great ideas about using the router table / fence. I will probably do it in the future; it is also probably safer, AND wouldn't require the chisel cleanup! I agree: I want to move off biscuits, and I think a Domino will be my next purchase whenever I need to build some furniture.
The top rail taller; I dropped the height of the cabinets for the thick concrete countertop; if I made the top rail taller I would loose some more space. But, it probably would look nice. I already had trouble fitting the dishwasher underneath, but that could have had a thinner top rail (or none at all). Thanks!
What software did you use?
SketchUp - check out episode 2 where I talk about making plans from the file, and also provide it to download. @
What is the wood you’re using here?
Hi Brad - I'm using clear alder; more affordable in my part of the world than some other options, but rather on the soft side and dents a bit easier than I'd hope. Cherry would be a better option for durability, but costs more.
Corin I'm wondering if I make the gap for my inset drawer fronts too narrow (3/32" ?) that the walnut (edit here: CHERRY not walnut is the wood) drawer fronts will expand and contract (building a vanity). This is my first time making inset drawer fronts. Or is that not really a worry?
David S that is definitely something to be aware of! 3/32 should be more than enough space to ensure you don’t have issues; especially if you are using properly dried and acclimated wood. 1/16” might be fine too, but 1/32” would likely have issues.
@@CorbinDunn Thanks. Having made my first cut I can see that the gap should be fine. The wood was from an Amish cabinet maker who donated literally several tons of door frames and drawer fronts of maple and walnut pieces to the nearby ReStore. They were of various sizes and ready for use. I bought lots for such projects at very cheap prices. I'm feeling good about the stability of the wood. I did take away great tips for sizing the doors (inset of solid walnut) to the frames.
A carpenter with a bun and beard. We’ve officially hit peak hipster. Having said that, he’s adorable. And hot.
LOL :)
Really looks good. I'm making cabinets too but having problems with twisting in my rails/styles which "warps" the door. This is most noticeable after glue-up. I may be clamping too hard or incorrectly. Doesn't look good on inset doors when one edge of one door sticks out further than the frame or adjacent door. Your's look really good but I wonder if you'll have that problem with seasonal changes. Appears to be a very common issue from what I've read. May I ask how did you avoid the issues I experienced?
Thanks! Twisting is definitely a problem. My first phase cabinets have been installed for about 6 months; so far, no twisting. But, I live in Santa Cruz CA, about 20 min's from the ocean, where it is relatively dry; a moist area like the south will have more problems. However, my bathroom cabinets aren't inset, but haven't twisted either, and that is a very humid environment. I avoid twist in several ways: I acclimate the wood in my shop for a few weeks before ripping. When I rip a board, some tend to twist more than others. If that appears to be happening, I will rip them about 1/8" to 1/4" wider, and then re-rip a 1/8" off each side. The first cut releases the tension, and the second straightens up the line. Next, I (almost) always use plywood for my door panels. This helps stabilize the door, since plywood tends to not move. I also put a line of glue in the grooves that take the plywood panel. Be cautious with plywood: sometimes I see pieces that are bowed, that can result in the door being bowed. Lastly, clamping straight is important! I like to use the Bessey clamps. After I clamp up, I take a look down the back side and compare it to the length of the clamp; sometimes too much force can cause the whole panel to bow a bit. I'll also toss a framing square on to make sure it isn't bowing and is straight,
What wood are you using? I wonder if that plays a factor too. Having a moisture meter will also help ensure your wood is dry; if it is wet at all it will tend to warp.
Are you using solid panels?
@@CorbinDunn Thanks Corbin for taking the time to answer and that really great explanation! Do you woodwork for a living or is it more of a hobby? I live in the suburbs of Chicago. Acclimation is difficult, particularly this time of year because the weather is quite labile.
I used poplar for my rails/stiles and prefinished 1/4" maple for my panels. Regarding assembly, I used both spacer balls and glued in the panels. It did seem a little counterintuitive at the time, but I was worried that gluing the stub tenons and using only spacer balls would not be enough to hold the doors and panels together. On the other hand, I was worried that if the glue holding the panels in place should fail, the panels would slide around in the groove (a problem I was having with the cabinets currently installed in my kitchen). I reasoned this way, that if the glue failed the space balls would be there to prevent the panel form sliding around in the grove.
I wonder if using a more dense wood like hardwood maple would be less likely to absorb the moisture. Another option- Although I really like the look of inset doors, maybe overlay would be less likely to show changes in twisting that may occur during, or even after completion.
@@1970jjl Currently I'm trying to pursue some woodworking as a side job; mainly making wood slab tables. I haven't actually sold anything yet, and I'm concentrating on finishing my own kitchen first. My other job is a part time circus artist, and general handy man for my own property management.
Poplar is definitely a soft wood, and that might account for it having more movement than you expected. Overlay doors definitely hide a lot of imperfections; honestly, if I do another set of kitchen cabinets I will only do overlay. They are so much faster and easier to do.
3/16 inches is equal to 0,476 centimeters. Thank me later ;-)
did you show how install the hinges and adjust or did i miss something? could the hinges also aid in alignment of the spacing?
Patrick Melchior I install the hinges later, after finishing the doors and installing the cabinets. It is a good idea to install at least one set before finishing to work out any issues. It would be hard to use the hinges as an aide when doing the spacing; you’d have to remove them before doing cuts, and it would be very time consuming.
I was wondering which hinges you used since it's a framed cabinet and you're inserting the doors.
what type hinges did you use for the door?
Hi Robert, I use "CLIP top BLUMOTION 110 Degree hinge, Full-Cranked, Screw on". It requires a clip on mounting plate, either the 13mm or 6mm or 0mm one, depending on where I mount it (how deep the edge is).
@@CorbinDunn I can't figure out where to drill the 35 mm hole in the back of my door. I'm making inset doors and I have the same hinges you've described. www.rokhardware.com/catalog/product/view/_searchanise/1/id/36/
If I drill the hole at 11mm i can't fully open the door. please help.
3/32"? Why americans persist with imperial measure is beyond me.
I would fully support the USA moving to metric! It is our government's fault that we haven't done this yet. Unfortunately, it is really hard to use metric for woodworking in America. All our tools come with imperial measurements; it is difficult to locally buy something as simple as a tape measure with metric units on it, and "dimensional lumber" comes in imperial increments. I could go on and on about it.
I'm happy to see that newer technologies, like 3D printing, have standardized on metric.
I moved to the states about 8 years ago and was always complaining that but now I prefer Standard as they call it.
Your knowledge is impeccable. But very boring.
I’ll have to add more excitement to my videos!