Andy, this is genius! 25-year owner of my ‘66 C-code w/Manual Steering Box…I have NEVER read or seen this piece of maintenance advice, and I’ve gone through tons of material over the years. Back in the pre-internet days all I had was books and repair manuals, and then we had internet forums before TH-cam. Again, this one is a first. Thanks for the tip!!! This has been added to my to-do list.👍👍
Haha. thanks! I wish I could take credit, but I was able to get this info from a couple of other TH-cam videos. On a side note, if the input seal on your steering box is no good, you will get a little grease ooze out the box and onto the shaft. Not the end of the world, but it's a good indicator that the steering box may need a rebuild. :)
Thank you for this video Andy, I purchased a 1967 econoline E100 panel van that sat on the weeds for almost 20 years and the steering box probably hasn't been lubed since the LBJ Administration, it steers like a real bear and I think this is going to help thank you for the tips/ advice
Great video, I wish I had the internet when I was wrenching on my 1965 and 1966 Mustang Fastbacks when I owned them, you explained the process very well. I had to get my information from the Ford Shop Manual, Mustangs Monthly Magazine and the Mustang Restore books they had.
There is quite a bit of difference between NLGI1 and NLGI2. If the grease is too heavy, in a steering box it will build up around the outside of the gears, instead of going between the gears. It sort of cakes up on the inside walls that the gears push the grease on to and too thick, it will stay there, outside of the gears. NLGI1 grease, which Ford calls for, is a lighter grease, that flows better in steering gear boxes and NLGI2 is a better chassis grease. It may be worth it to find proper NLGI1 grease
Two things about this comment. The point of filling your steering box is to leave basically no air space in there. As you turn the wheel side to side there is supposed to be enough grease in there that it can't just squish off to the sides and corners and not do its job. And secondly Ford designed the boxes location to be near the hot exhaust. The heat from the exhaust warms the box and softens the grease to help it flow as well.
@@classics289 The steering box being located to warm the grease for increased flow indicates that a less flowing grease is not desirable. Even with the steering box full of grease, the grease should be able to flow properly between the gears and the other components inside the steering box. I've seen the inside of steering boxes with the wrong grease and just having packed grease is not good enough.
I had to rebuild my 72 steering box because it was practically pouring out atf fluid everywhere. Let me tell you, that thing was the BIGGEST pain in the butt to get it back in the car and bolt it back to the frame by myself. Those manual grease boxes are nice since they don’t really leak. Electric ratchets, impacts, jacks, bungee cords, and metal wire always save the day when you’re working by yourself and need extra hands!
@@josemedeiros007I rebuilt it myself. Watch a video on saginaw steering box rebuild. Almost all steering boxes are near identical internally. Once you do one you can do them all. The kit to rebuild is literally $5-10 on rock auto
I unfolded the carpet on my 67 Ford Econoline and was surprised to find out that it's a sideways version, using the same method I'm attempting to Greece this monster
I am really embarrassed to admit this, but............ I had no Idea that grease went in there. Crap, maybe that is one reason the car steers so hard. ?? And a 750Lb 460 big block sitting up there and no power steering? Dumb ass here, over and out. Thanks Andy appreciate you sir! Stay warm up there if you can. Cheers from Motown.
I’ve taken one apart before. It moves the sector shaft up and down, which is the shaft that comes out the bottom and connects to the Pittman arm. It has three large teeth that connect with a box that has little ball bearings inside. The nut adjusts the responsiveness of turning the steering wheel to the turning of the actual tires by changing clearances internally. It will not tighten a loose-feeling steering wheel but it may help if you have a spot in the steering where the wheels don’t respond when you turn the wheel back and forth. You DO NOT want to move the set screw in the middle too much from the factory calibrated spot. Too tight and the steering wheel will slip and spin at a high speed when you try to turn. Too loose and you will have to turn the wheel too much before the tires respond to turning. Just be careful with tightening it if you are working with an older car, you don’t know if it already has been tightened before, there is only so much you can tighten before it just needs a rebuild and clearances are too far out of whack. If you want change how much force it takes to turn the steering (fix loose steering) you have to take the box out of the car. The side where the steering column attaches has a threaded cap with a locking nut you can tighten for that.
If it's anything like power steering, I wouldn't mess with it unless you know what you're doing. They could easily be ruined if that worm gear is too tight... and it doesn't take much.
Okay...got a question out of left field. What if the fitting from my grease gun were to get stuck in there? Im banging my head trying to get it out. I've detached the hose and its just the "nozzle" in there at the moment...
Needle nose pliers should be able to grab it. If not, you can get a pair of Hemostats at Harbor Freight, they're like needle nose pliers, but have a locking mechanism to grab things (they're used in surgery). :)
@@voltorb3246 For jack stands I am just using something generic, I do not recall the brands. For the floor jack, I have been using the 3 ton unit from Harbor Freight that has been pretty good to me. I'm sure there are better floor jacks out there, but it's hard for me to justify 2x and 3x the price on this kind of tool. I also use the QuickJack lift for my cars. You can see it hanging on the wall in the background of my videos. I get great clearance at the front and rear of the car when I use them, but due to the lift points on my Mustangs, there's limited access to the middle of the car (not often needed though). On more modern cars the lift points are more towards the side of the cars, which makes a little more space in the middle. I made a video on the QuickJack review on my channel, you should check it out! 😀
Andy, this is genius! 25-year owner of my ‘66 C-code w/Manual Steering Box…I have NEVER read or seen this piece of maintenance advice, and I’ve gone through tons of material over the years.
Back in the pre-internet days all I had was books and repair manuals, and then we had internet forums before TH-cam. Again, this one is a first.
Thanks for the tip!!! This has been added to my to-do list.👍👍
Haha. thanks! I wish I could take credit, but I was able to get this info from a couple of other TH-cam videos. On a side note, if the input seal on your steering box is no good, you will get a little grease ooze out the box and onto the shaft. Not the end of the world, but it's a good indicator that the steering box may need a rebuild. :)
The to-do list is always growing, good information I agree
The to-do is growing
Thank you for this video Andy, I purchased a 1967 econoline E100 panel van that sat on the weeds for almost 20 years and the steering box probably hasn't been lubed since the LBJ Administration, it steers like a real bear and I think this is going to help thank you for the tips/ advice
Awesome! I glad this video may help you out. :)
Great video, I wish I had the internet when I was wrenching on my 1965 and 1966 Mustang Fastbacks when I owned them, you explained the process very well. I had to get my information from the Ford Shop Manual, Mustangs Monthly Magazine and the Mustang Restore books they had.
Yeah, it was tough to get the info we needed back in the day, we're spoiled these days. :)
There is quite a bit of difference between NLGI1 and NLGI2. If the grease is too heavy, in a steering box it will build up around the outside of the gears, instead of going between the gears. It sort of cakes up on the inside walls that the gears push the grease on to and too thick, it will stay there, outside of the gears. NLGI1 grease, which Ford calls for, is a lighter grease, that flows better in steering gear boxes and NLGI2 is a better chassis grease. It may be worth it to find proper NLGI1 grease
Good info
Two things about this comment. The point of filling your steering box is to leave basically no air space in there. As you turn the wheel side to side there is supposed to be enough grease in there that it can't just squish off to the sides and corners and not do its job. And secondly Ford designed the boxes location to be near the hot exhaust. The heat from the exhaust warms the box and softens the grease to help it flow as well.
@@classics289 The steering box being located to warm the grease for increased flow indicates that a less flowing grease is not desirable. Even with the steering box full of grease, the grease should be able to flow properly between the gears and the other components inside the steering box. I've seen the inside of steering boxes with the wrong grease and just having packed grease is not good enough.
Good info and makes sense@@classics289
Thank you very much Andy !! Will get this done on my 65/
Awesome, good luck! :)
I had to rebuild my 72 steering box because it was practically pouring out atf fluid everywhere. Let me tell you, that thing was the BIGGEST pain in the butt to get it back in the car and bolt it back to the frame by myself. Those manual grease boxes are nice since they don’t really leak. Electric ratchets, impacts, jacks, bungee cords, and metal wire always save the day when you’re working by yourself and need extra hands!
Yeah, I like how easy this car is to work on. :)
Who did you have rebuild it for you, and how much did it cost?
@@josemedeiros007I rebuilt it myself. Watch a video on saginaw steering box rebuild. Almost all steering boxes are near identical internally. Once you do one you can do them all. The kit to rebuild is literally $5-10 on rock auto
Great vid. Wish I saw this before my engine went in
While it is easier to add grease with the engine out, you should still be able to get'r done anyways. :)
Great video, your giving me a ton of small projects to take on with my 66
You can do it!
Andy what a great video .I was looking for this fix for a long time, I was wondering how this would be done for a long time, and here it is thanks.
Awesome, glad I can help. 😀
I should check this on my car. I filled it when I initially restored the car.
It's one of those things that's always on the list that we continue to push off until later. Today is later. :)
Will be doing this thanks
No problem, happy to help!! :)
I unfolded the carpet on my 67 Ford Econoline and was surprised to find out that it's a sideways version, using the same method I'm attempting to Greece this monster
Good luck!! :)
Great video, my 64 falcon has the same box.
Nice! :)
Are all boxes set up like this with grease gun fill hole? crazy never stop learning
Sorry Boss, I don't know that one. :)
I am really embarrassed to admit this, but............ I had no Idea that grease went in there. Crap, maybe that is one reason the car steers so hard. ?? And a 750Lb 460 big block sitting up there and no power steering? Dumb ass here, over and out. Thanks Andy appreciate you sir! Stay warm up there if you can. Cheers from Motown.
Since we're being honest, I didn't know either, that's why I didn't do it on my last two Mustangs. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel LOL Andy! I feel much better now! Thanks
@@AndyKruseChannel The 64.5 that I have had since high school (1983) has not been greased. I may have to look into this!
Could you also explain what the bolt with the locking nut in the center does? It’s some sort of adjustment.
I believe you are correct, I think it allows fine adjustment of the worm gear lash inside, I think. :)
I’ve taken one apart before. It moves the sector shaft up and down, which is the shaft that comes out the bottom and connects to the Pittman arm. It has three large teeth that connect with a box that has little ball bearings inside. The nut adjusts the responsiveness of turning the steering wheel to the turning of the actual tires by changing clearances internally. It will not tighten a loose-feeling steering wheel but it may help if you have a spot in the steering where the wheels don’t respond when you turn the wheel back and forth. You DO NOT want to move the set screw in the middle too much from the factory calibrated spot. Too tight and the steering wheel will slip and spin at a high speed when you try to turn. Too loose and you will have to turn the wheel too much before the tires respond to turning. Just be careful with tightening it if you are working with an older car, you don’t know if it already has been tightened before, there is only so much you can tighten before it just needs a rebuild and clearances are too far out of whack. If you want change how much force it takes to turn the steering (fix loose steering) you have to take the box out of the car. The side where the steering column attaches has a threaded cap with a locking nut you can tighten for that.
If it's anything like power steering, I wouldn't mess with it unless you know what you're doing. They could easily be ruined if that worm gear is too tight... and it doesn't take much.
@@buttonysquare8501 😅
Okay...got a question out of left field. What if the fitting from my grease gun were to get stuck in there? Im banging my head trying to get it out. I've detached the hose and its just the "nozzle" in there at the moment...
Needle nose pliers should be able to grab it. If not, you can get a pair of Hemostats at Harbor Freight, they're like needle nose pliers, but have a locking mechanism to grab things (they're used in surgery). :)
on my to do list... now.. lol
Awesome!!
Would the grease process the same with power steering?
Yes it is. :)
I'm assuming this is manual steering. I never knew these needed this done, always had power steering.
Yes, manual box. :)
There is no difference between manual and power steering boxes.
Do you have any good car jack recommendations?
Are you asking about Car Jacks or locations on the car of where to jack it up? :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I mean like what jack and jack stand are you using? Sorry to be unclear.
@@voltorb3246 For jack stands I am just using something generic, I do not recall the brands. For the floor jack, I have been using the 3 ton unit from Harbor Freight that has been pretty good to me. I'm sure there are better floor jacks out there, but it's hard for me to justify 2x and 3x the price on this kind of tool. I also use the QuickJack lift for my cars. You can see it hanging on the wall in the background of my videos. I get great clearance at the front and rear of the car when I use them, but due to the lift points on my Mustangs, there's limited access to the middle of the car (not often needed though). On more modern cars the lift points are more towards the side of the cars, which makes a little more space in the middle. I made a video on the QuickJack review on my channel, you should check it out! 😀
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks alot I appreciate it
Is it the same on an '71 F100?
I don't know what steering box you have, but the process is similar. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I have the original one, refurbished few years ago by one of the previous owner, but I think it should be the same process.
1 is like tomato puree, 2 is like peanut butter, 3 is like margarine .
Thanks for sharing!!
Will play on steering wheel go away
Not likely. If there's play in the steering, it could be any number of the components between the steering wheel and the wheels themselves. :)
Why not pump it clean ? Get the old stuff out ?
You are welcome to do that if you'd like. :)
NO grease sert so now what
I didn’t have a grease zerk either, just put the end of the grease tube in the steering box like I did. 🙂
Would regular bearing grease work?
I do not know on that, I'm just going with the research I found online. :)