Lutron Lighting Control System - Studio Installation Part 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2020
- Installing a £1500 Light Fitting - Studio Electrics Part 5
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What a brilliant job, thanks for sharing it with us. I always put sockets at the end of data cable runs rather than fitting plugs directly on them. That way, the whole run stays as fixed wiring that no-one is messing with, which is better for the solid conductors you get in reels of data cable and makes people use a flexible patch cable for the final connection to the router/switch.
That's a great idea!
That’s how SPD work if your putting anything more than normal line voltage down them they’ll shunt the excess current to earth and cause a low impedance reading
What a stunning job you must be proud Jordan.The LED strip always looks awesome proper job
Thanks mate!
Love seeing a fellow sparks great work! Top job Jordan!!
Thanks so much!
Looking smart! Something i recently learnt with the piranha nuts, the side with the teeth is meant to scrape the surface clean, your then supposed to take off the nut, flip it over so the flat side is making contact to the cleaned surface not the toothed side. You done well to get it all in the enclosure. You could have possibly tried to mount a bigger adaptable box where all the piranha nuts are and done all the connections in there to make some more space. Such a nice build hopefully you get more of them.
Thanks a lot!
Nice to see a job done properly, well done, you should be proud. Nice for any future spark in 20 odd years time coming to see that such a good job was done
That's the plan!
You get extra points for using a quality netgear switch. I've just retired my netgear ADSL router after almost 18 years of continuos use including the same PSU it shipped with. It started off with the first 256kbs link and ended with 8mb. You just don't get quality like that very often, I doubt the provider supplied fibre router will make it that long!
Yeah they are great and only £20!
Nice work!
Thanks!
Great job here Jordan! Its great to see a sparky who is aware of these Lutron dimmers. We have had these installed every where in our house and our electrician had never seen them before. I wonder if the client will cover the LED strips for a more diffuse effect?
Great Video as always 👍
Appreciate that
When wiring outbuildings study the US NEC in regards to bonding and Isolated (Not disconnected) grounds and ground currents. Consider the barn a Subpanel. All wires have capacitance. All capacitance with AC power provides a current path. The longer the path, the higher the leakage amount. Due to this, RCD's designed for in home are unsuitable for protection of runs to a subpanel in a remote location.
There are 3 solutions.
1 Separate power drop to the outbuilding with service entrance and meter.
2 Isolation Transformer at the outbuilding with local ground for the outbuilding's panel.
3 Isolated Ground with lower sensitivity RCD in the primary panel or no RCD to the subpanel. RCD's in the sub panel provide local protection. Bonding the Ground and Neutral in the subpanel will share current on the ground and neutral, which you do not want.
Note, Adding lighting dimmers, VFD drives and other highly filtered electrically noisy items will rise the RCD current. These combined will trip the upstream RCD as this was never meant for the combined branch circuit totals on the one breaker. The sub panel breaker was never intended for feeding a subpanel, only a single appliance such as cooking range or cloths dryer.
For studio lighting I prefer DMX control with a conventional console. Gives full control of the lighting scenes, transition times, etc. The RF is more of set it up for the event and leave it. DMX is more for an active production calling for set lighting changes during the production. With DMX you can integrate intelligent lighting such as inexpensive LED par lighting, or other intelligent lighting products into the set design. Smart home products are seldom designed to interface with industry standard lighting control protocols. That kit is designed for retrofit into a home, not a new studio install.
Lutron makes some excellent commercial lighting solutions supporting DMX, Artnet, MPX and other control standards. I use a goknight.com/leviton-ppic0-v48-piccolo-v48-lighting-controller/ for smaller venues and a Magic Q console for larger events with addressable LED lighting and intelligent light fixtures. Yes it works with industry standard architectural lighting control that supports DMX.
I hope the level of limited control provided by the home lighting package meets your studio control requirements.
Lurton are quality...... great building and job 👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks Jordan
Any time
A job that befits the “Artisan Electrics” name . Quality work Jordan . Had me laughing when the slip of the tongue called it a shed 😂.
😁
9:00 Normal local area network (LAN) over copper ethernet cable (Cat5 till Cat8) say maximal 100 meter from hop-to-hop (e.g. bridge/hub/switch) for 10/100/1000 mbit.
Normally we calculate 90 m hard socket2socket and 5 m flexible at both end to the devices.
Longer way (up to 10 km) normal with SDSL / VDSL signal or ethernet over active fiber.
If do you use good cable (PiMF with saved earth at one side!) and special connectors with good switches should 120 m be not a problem. Both ports hard on 1 gbit, no handle.
But between far points are fiber better, no electric problem. 😉
Thanks yeah it works fine.
As an RCDD / NTS, I pretty much recommend fiber between buildings. Makes distance and electromagnetic issues go away.
I might start calling my shed an oak studio. Pretty neat name!
You should!
Very nice work Sir.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice looking job . Nice to do something a bit different. Well done .
Glad you like it
Ethernet has a distance limit of 100m
You have to go to fiber optics for that distance or put in a repeater that is poe powered in the middle somewhere.
It's not a limit, it's just the value picked for the specification. In practice you can get a lot further in many cases. Fibre is definitely preferable, especially buried for that far, though.
CAT6 may work at 120m with errors at Gbps. 100mbps should be achievable. Personally, I would never do it without a repeater as a minimum. Fibre would be the correct solution in this case.
@@drummerbod I would not expect errors out of merely 120m. There's plenty of overhead to work with.
😂
Been a very intresting install
Thanks Chris!
Nice job done to a high standard.Be careful with volt drops on supply cables!
Thanks for the tip!
Tidy bit of work 😊 class studio 😊😊
Thanks a lot!
Is that cable that's wound up in the cabnet live, if so inductive load and possible capacitance?
never understood the idea behind the Hager Live & Neutral link cables in db's copper always showing. Great vid nice job!
Glad you liked it!
Good one 👍
Thanks for the visit
nice work as always
Appreciate that, thanks for watching!
@@artisanelectrics thanks ive watched everything. just a domestic installer looking for info how others do things
Jordan- I think the max length for CAT 5e is 90m, end to end including any patch cords etc. You may need to put a repeater half way, or you may have problems.
Thanks, it works fine!
no the max overall length is 100m but the maximum "horizontal" i.e. installed cable is 90m to allow for patch cables - see here: www.se.com/ww/en/faqs/FA269550/
Jordan that is a top job mate. I'd love to have given you a hand on that one
Thanks a lot!
Hi any chance you have a link/information on the external box please...I have an up and coming job that needs something like this
Great neat install. But bare in mind ethernet spec says only 100m for 1gbit. You should use pre finished fiber. this will also give you a galvanic border between this both buildings. Or you can place a switch from ak ubiquiti nanoswitch in the midel of the run to refresh the signal and feed it with passiv poe from the house in the same network wire.
Yes thanks
I second fibre, Netgear do switch's with fibre ports (SFP module)
Did the Lutron hub still work when you closed the door on the cabinet? Assume it uses an RF link to the switches.
On the supply SWA, I presume you've done the IR to the steel wire aswell as the CPC if 3 core?
Yes!
Can I ask why you didn’t put a small board in the main property as your supply doesn’t need RCD protection as you said the property is now pme? Or swap out the 100ma main RCD for a main switch if supply has been changed to pme and if you have TT’d the barn should that not have main switch time delayed RCD? Then you would have no impact on the house and you are all covered if the loose cables short out on the body of the board? Also could you not have used 1 continuous cable to earth the nuts? Looks good though.
Excellent work, I want to see that £1500.00 Dyson light fitting working... It better be good! 😂 Lol
Next episode goes out on Monday at 5:30pm and you get to see it working!
@@artisanelectrics cool. 😎👍
Hi Jordon, I’ve enjoyed this series of videos, will you be able to show us the studio when it’s fully kitted out?
Not sure I will be able to!
Good job mate, very neat.
Re the tripping, why did you put the supply from the house on an rcd? It's a sub main, could you not just have it on an mcb?
Rcd feeding an spd would cause problems I'd imagine?
It used to be a TT system so the main board has a 100mA S Type RCD. SPD can be downstream from a Type S RCD according to regs.
Interesting to see overtime if all that gear in the housing box suffers from temperature and damp issues, understand it wasn’t preferred to locate inside the barn but maybe a bad choice 5 years from now.
We will see I guess!
Lovely job! Worth mentioning that ethernet over Cat5e/Cat6 shouldn't exceed 100m. It'd fail a Fluke test due to exessive attenuation & return loss and you're likely to get stability issues when network demand is high. - You can however, run ethenet over your existing power cables upto 300m provided you and ditch the SPDs as they filter it out, have a look at the TP Link TL-PA717 KIT.
Yeah thanks
SPDs shouldn't really filter that out - line filters do, but SPDs are just MOVs. Still, powerline networking like that is borderline illegal, often unreliable, and no substitute for dedicated cabling. You could do essentially the same (it's not dissimilar to DSL) over the cat5e with much better results and no trampling on licensed radio bands. But, honestly, if the run is only about 120m I doubt there will be any big issues, and if there are, just run DSL over it.
Hi, @@Monkeh616. Admittingly, most PLAs units manufactured pre 2015 were questionable with regards to reliability and interferance, but there have been significant advances in reliability and regulation since then. Afaik manufacturers still recommend not to install PLAs upstream of surge protected power stips as it will filter out signals (I would guess an SPD will have the same effect as they both use MOVs for suppression?).
@@elliotninja Some surge protected extensions will include filters, which are the problem. The capacitance of MOVs in a type 2 SPD is probably not sufficient to cause a huge problem. And if it is.. I'd sooner ditch the dodgy powerline toy than surge protection. Cost of fibre or a DSL link vs the equipment, building, and that crazy Dyson light fitting? Easy choice.
Top Job as always mate. Great workmanship too Bud😉
Thanks!
Maybe U can put a dinrail and put the mcb's on it so u can have more space
Top workmanship, a pleasure to witness. Just curious, why was fire detection not necessary in this design?
I'd assume it's because it's a single room and nobody will be sleeping in there.
Thats right
Jordan - I have seen DIN mountable network switches before. Looks like you've got plenty of space in the CU so that could save you a bit of space. You'd have to be careful with the power causing interference with the data wires though! 👍
Interference is not the issue - sharing the enclosure is. It's just not meant to go there.
Monkeh Yeah I guess so. That's why IT guys don't do electrics! 😆
Thanks for the tips!
Nice job very tidy, what where the led strips you used?
Thanks! I use ALL LED stuff they are good quality.
ALWAYS check the factory connections on consumer units!!
Q. What was the Zdb reading with that earth rod? Also, a good question raised by Jonathan Dugan... No fire detection?
Great video and a first class installation Jordan 👍
Thanks! ZDB 24.9 ohms. Fire detection not needed as nobody will sleep there, plus client would kill me if I put ugly smoke detectors up! 😂
Artisan Electrics 😂 AFDD maybe an option instead of smokes just for protection to the building and expensive accessories!
@@peterwalker1962 Nice 1 Peter ✔
Looks a good install, why is there an Rcd protecting the distribution circuit? Did you put any smoke alarms in the building
It’s because the main board has a 100mA Type S RCD as it used to be a TT system for the whole house
No smoke alarms
If you test at 250V you’ll get the higher reading for your IR and if you test at 500V you'll get much lower IR readings.
Really neat job and cool barn! Are you concerned with the possibility of the commando socket supply for building works also being on the data and lighting control supply circuit, maybe a better Idea to separate them out so you don't lose lighting controls and data if there is a fault on the builders equipment. Just a thought
Each circuit has its own RCBO so it’s not a problem
@@artisanelectrics Think he suggesting it might be a good idea to have the commando and the twin 13amp socket powering data switch on two separate RCBOs. That way if something plugged into the commando causes it to pop the internet connection stays on..
@@greenhac1 yeah, that's what I meant. Regardless, still a very tidy job
Hi Jordan, I’ve really enjoyed these video’s on the barn. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 I like the bit where the RCD was tripping & it turned out to be something stupid, things like that can drive you nuts & it happens to us all. I wouldn’t mind a future video on the networking part of it, I’m not to sure on networking, for example is the switch just a spitter? Also if the supply cable is 10mm & the property is 100m to 120m away was there no volt drop or short circuit problems on the final circuits. (I noticed the radials were 4mm on 20A circuit breakers). A video on the calculations of this project would also be good.👍🏼. RCD protection of the supply cable wasn’t necessary as the supply was TN, but additional safety can only be a good thing. Looking forward to the next instalment. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼. Thanks for keeping us entertained during this lockdown & the tip of the brass sheet for the armoured👍🏼
Awesome thanks for watching!
Probably be fine in practice but the max length for Ethernet cable is 100m. Might need to stick a repeater in line somewhere. Interesting project though and very well documented! Keep it up!
Yea, I would have used a fiber connection, just to be safe. Even if it works over more than 100m (I doubt with that cheap switch...), it will not work great, maybe you have a lot of lost packets, and you need to be luck to get a gigabit connection over that distance.
The house is in the middle of nowhere and they get 3MB max from their BT home hub so speed is not really an issue...
@@artisanelectrics I'd be very surprised if you had any issue with that cable run.
With good quality switches i think 120m is just fine since the ethernet protocol is very robust, but many ISPs router/modem combo units may have very bad quality ethernet transceivers and thus might cause problems. Also paket loss is still a problem even if the internet connection is only 3Mbps, if for example VOIP Telephones are used over that connection. Fiber is way to expensive and complicated for a simple barn setup. If any problems arise use a vdsl or g.Fast bridge they can use the same cable you already laid and can reach distances of up to 1km.
@@artisanelectrics The outgoing speed have to do nothing with the local area speed. Exactly this is the definition of LAN vs. WAN!
My LAN inside my place (house and garden in nowhere. Very small village in the rual german outback.) is since 2002 fully 1 GBit.
But my outdoor connection (WAN) start with 2 MBit SDSL copper over telephone line (60 ms to my local provider (1 hob) till now 0.5 GBit ADSL fiber (~4 ms for 80 km till DE-HHCIX [International Hamburg exchange point]). To London CIX around 2 ms more.
My LTE (4G) connect since last year at 2x 300 MBit (as emercency option).
Did I see cuts in the SWA inner sheath, just above the earthing nuts in the box? Were you planning on stripping it back that far?
It's quite clearly pencil marks.
Thanks
Very posh 👍
Haha thanks
don't the Lutron devices have problems getting a signal from the switches because of the metal housing?
in two words to sum that up... WOOOOWWW WOOOWWW! that is awesome! 😊
a little diddy question, shouldnt the data cable feed be about a foot away from the mains to prevent signal reduction due to magnetic field of the mains cable? (i seem to recall that its not advised to run data cables close to mains and be a foot away) just a passing thought not a critisism!
you did extremely well there! be beaut to see it in use with all your hard work in use! 😊
For such a short distance it's effectively irrelevant - long coupling lengths are needed to have a measurable effect. Interference from mains supplies with normal loads is a bit of an overblown concern anyway.
I'd be more worried about running ethernet over a cat5e cable 120meters!!....... Should be running a fibre at this sort of length. Also worried about the Faraday cage that is housing the lutron kit, those switches are RF are they not?
@@paulbell7654 120m isn't really that far, unless something is grossly wrong it's unlikely to be an issue. I've done 150m assembled out of two or three pieces of random scrap without the slightest hint of a problem (just as a test, mind you). Running fibre is obviously preferable. Around £300 worth preterminated, which means you'd best get your length right and have somewhere to coil the tails safely (NOT in a box people are likely to open).
It works absolutely fine and to be honest 120m was a guess but it may be 80m I didn’t really measure
Monkeh got it 😊 glad thats cleared up 😊 ta
SPD sounds about right, and maybe the SPD is causing the trip. Usually SPD's are put in before the RCD so they wouldn't normally trip one.
You might be onto something.
Watching this further. Glad you worked out the issue with the tripping.
Thanks!
What is the name of the galv steel light fittings which fit on conduit boxes
They are made by a company called Garden Trading
Personally I'd install mode lighting's eDin instead of Lutron. In fact, that's just what I did.
Lovely neat and nice long job, really decent bit of work. How come you've terminated the armour to both the PME at the house and the TT at the shed? Sorry outbuilding? If I do that, I make the outbuilding a TT in its own right. I thought that was what you were supposed to do, else you're exporting the earth, O, I dunno - do you have any thoughts on that Jordan?
Hi! Yeah I separated the earthing systems at the outbuilding so the studio has its own TT earthing system only. Can’t export PME as you correctly mention.
@@artisanelectrics Thanks for getting back to me, I must have gotten confused watching the video, thought you'd taken the armour with fly leads up to the MET there. Thanks for the video, I'm looking into those Lutron in line switches, not sure what the functionality of them is... could be useful in future. Ta
No 100ma rcd for the tt system?
See on the bottom of the SPD you have to connect a 6mm or 10mm earth cable. You won’t miss it it’s at the bottom of the SPD
Yeah thats right
Great job mate but if line of sight is possible you’d of probably been better off using a point to point WiFi access point setup, comfortably do 3km and probably cheaper when compared to the labour and 120m of armoured cat5
At the cost of that building, why cheap out and use wifi?
Theres a forest in between so that wouldn't work!
Nice job very neat I’m working in france and using lots of WiFi lighting here now saving on switch installation good vid too
Cool 👍
lol bringing that armored data cable in looks a nightmare
Did you design all this yourself? Great little install 👍
Yes I did, thanks!
120m cat5e run? Shouldn't do runs over 100m...
Should be ok if it's properly shielded.
It will be over the CAT5e standard recommendations but it will probably still work as long as the switches are of good quality.
@@elminster8149 nothing to do with shielding, it messes cup CSMA/CD (because full Duplex will go to shite so you'll be at half I'd expect). Can-nay change the laws of physics..
Nothing to say you can’t run cat6 over 100m it’s just means the speed and band width is not guaranteed at the 100m length
There isn't a hard limit of where it will stop working or even stop being a stable connection. The 100M is a guarantee of something working within manufacturer specification. Personally at this point I would have run OM4 fibre multicore, which isn't as expensive as people make out.
I wouldn't put an outside supply on the same RCD that protects any other circuits. You don't want the house losing any circuits because the shed/garage has an earth fault. Also the cumulative earth leakage makes nuisance tripping much more likely.
If the enclosure is earthed properly, which it should be through the consumer unit, no need to banjo any of the SWA.
Yeah but I always do belt and braces
Just an FYI, ethernet cable shouldn’t be run longer than 100M. You may start having issues and speeds decreasing (if it works at all) over 100M. I’d run fibre if I were you, and use media converters or use a switch with an SFP port to take a fibre optic transceiver 👍🏼
Thanks, it works ok fortunately.
I know a few have mentioned the Ethernet limits below, and why this should be fibre, so i'll pipe down. The only other concern is the Faraday cage that is housing the Lutron control gear - the switches work off RF, guess whats going to happen...
I believe Lutron is 433MHz - that box is hardly an efficient a cage at that frequency. But it might indeed get a little touchy, relying on reflections.
It’s absolutely fine works a treat. See the final part on Monday!
Hi, could you not of used the distributors pme earth connection rather than rod it? I carnt see any extraneous metalwork and the building is wooden.
Outside lights could create simultaneous contact with true earth and PME earth, which in the event of a PEN fault could be deadly.
Great job Jordan. Can I ask, why the earth rod install?
The buildings quite far away from the house and on a pme
Utilities I would imagine, extraneous inductive parts more then likely in a build that big.
@@marcus62647 maybe yeah, but the size of the feed cable is 10mm isn't it? So it's big enough to be used as a bonding conductor.
Yeah it’s because the house is on a PME system and not allowed to export PME so installed an earth electrode for the outbuilding only.
@@artisanelectrics thanks for the reply Jordan. I just thought it was recommended not to use the PME.
Max distance of Cat5e data cable is 100mtr, you said 120m from the house. You may not get full speed, have you done a speed test on the line?
Andrew Sheldon came here to say this!
In my experience, if it's fully shielded it should be ok
The house only has a 3MB internet connection so speed is not a concern
Aren't there steel plates what can be fitted on timber in places where cables go through? I know they've got such things in 🇺🇸
Yeah I think so!
Yes I have used them 'SAFEPLATE' www.toolstation.com/safe-plate/p20903
Yes Jordan having lived nearly 40 years on the U.K. and then moved to USA the steel plating around cables near studs warn and protect accidental damage even with armored cable I suspect damage can still be caused. That’s one thing I actually liked in USA compared to U.K. The US NEC2020 code is very comprehensive in such regards but falls down in the area of installation testing.
Nice job. But at what point did you wish you put in a larger external enclosure lol. Good work though 👌👌
Yeah I wished that as soon as I started trying to fit everything in! 😂
@@artisanelectrics 🤣🤣 I do that all the time thinking this enclosure is huge I'll get everything in that easily....3 hours later....... I wish I got the next size up 🤣🤣
Top stuff Jordan. That cable run through the jungle looked fun 😩😩, I was surprised you wasn’t using a fibre cable for the data instead of Ethernet as I think there is a suggested max length it can happily cope with. . May I ask why you had RCD protection on the SWA from the house as it is not really needed or was it a case it wasn’t a high integrity board and the only ways spare we’re through the rcd that was there?
Keep it up Jordan you do great content. 👍🏻
I thought that, too Jordan
Ethernet copper suggested max length 90m.
Not finished watching yet, but a long run of SWA is going to have a lot of capacitance, which will leak a lot (relatively, obviously) of current to earth. The downsides of AC.
Edit: Oh, nice catch. I guess Hager need to use better insulation and break the edges on those clips a bit better.
Yeah thanks!
Hi, what’s the difference between this Lutron kit and a quinetic system?
Quinetic is not very flexible, Lutron is a fully flexible system that is designed for large houses and projects and its fully flexible.
These Lutron systems are (fairly basic) home automation lighting control systems. Dimmers, fan controllers (do they do those for the UK market? Never looked..), scenes, motion sensor input, and so forth. Quinetic is just a battery-free wireless switch. Different beasts for different purposes.
You need to take it off the rcd. No need for it if the sub main is Steel wire armoured.
For a minute there I thought this was an episode of Bear Grylls lol
HAHA 😂
lightning arrest can trip rcd.
Thanks
Why is the submain on an rcd at the house?, no need for rcbo selectively then
Its on a 100mA S Type RCD at the house as it used to be a TT installation in the past.
Had that problem ,years a go,solved it then with what they called voltage RCD ,retired now so don't now what's on the market and regulations,can also put house on 100ma and new build on 30ma, if that meets latest regs??tried earth rod but that did not work
Yeah I did put the house end on a 100mA RCD Time delayed
Hey Jordan, how come over in the UK a lot of installations have armored cabling ? In NZ we use armored for the supply usually and depending on location? Loving the new videos! Cheers maate
Good question! Its quite traditional here 😂 Thanks for watching!
Nothing to do with tradition, you need to use swa to meet certain criteria with the regulations.
My only comment would be that the network switch should be indoors and user serviceable/accessible. There's no reason to have it in the outside box.
Good point
*DIN Rail 😎
DO YOU DRILL A WEEP HOLE IN YOUR BOX.
No. It shouldn't get any moisture in.
@@artisanelectrics Not even for condensation. I usually drill a small weep hole if nothing else but for condensation. Thanks for your response Great job on the barn. Have a great day a great day in deed.
Yes a huge hassle but the customer should have buried the cables. Cannot understand the attention to detail on the studio and then risking it all by not protecting the cables. Safety should be the main concern and more than that aesthetically it would have looked much better. It’s gonna be a problem for the future, mark my words.
Yeah true
Looks a bit suspect when you are pushing that armoured data cable through the bushes with the camera on the floor. Let’s hope dse wasn’t watching.
😂
You can't just put a wireless receiver inside a metal box, youre killing the transmission by making a faraday cage.
I have realized that alot of British sparks when they wire a sub mains supply from the main consumer at the main house they wire it from a 40 amp mcb out the the sub consumer into a 100amp mains isolator, it makes no sense to do that when you all ready have 100amp main isolator protection on the sub consumer unit, the 40amp mcb in the main house is not required. I would leave the 40amp breaker out on the main consumer unit in the main house and just tie your sub mains supply into you mains busbar underneath in the main consumer unit at the house, this will eliminate and reduce nuance tripping and disruption to the sub distribution board unless the main supply to the main house is interrupted, you have all ready adequate protection with your 100amp main isolator in the sub consumer unit along with all your relevant rcbos
It's not a 100A MCB - it's an isolator switch. What you just suggested is removing the overcurrent protection from the supply cable.
@UCkqoH8YMa2FuOK5HuXxdn9w my bad I ment to say main isolator switch, the terms are different in other countries where I'm from some people refer them to a mains switch fuse depending on its type of course but anyway regardless I never mentioned anything about removing any main isolation 🤔
@@eamonnblake9704 Yes, sorry, I removed that reply and added another - early in the morning. What you suggested was even worse than I thought.
@@Monkeh616 you didnt even know what I was on about at first and now my suggestion is even worse🤣 and I bet u still dont know what I'm on about 🙄 theres plenty of clowns around like u waiting to jump on every fiddle faddle that they see, thinking they know it all, your a proper hamster mate!
@@eamonnblake9704 And I quote "you all ready have 100amp main isolator protection on the sub consumer unit, the 40amp mcb in the main house is not required."
So what provides overcurrent protection for the cable from the main CU to the outbuilding if you remove that MCB? The DNO fuse?! And what protection does an isolator switch provide?
I did apologise for misreading a comment at 2 in the morning - and you now choose to attack me. 'nuff said.
Head's up. Don't put RF lighting control receivers for a wireless system inside a metal box. The Farady cage will shield the receivers from the control signals. The receivers you selected are not equipped to use external antennas mounted outside the enclosure.
Between the RF issue, the RCD issue, and the network cable issue, I would highly recommend someone with training and experience in this filed. An aftermarket add on smart home solution is a poor choice for a built in studio installation. Get professional help. Do not put those wireless receivers inside the closed metal cabinet. Trust me on that one. Low volt has electrical code requirements for isolation in a single cabinet. You may wish to re-think the mixed media cabinet and use a proper sub panel for electrical and a multimedia IT network cabinet for data.
Dont think that fuseboard is "fairly neat" Untidy really
OK