This video was so helpful! I have a P-85 but this is close enough. Had a bunch of high keys that would randomly trigger themselves, and soon after that the rest of the keys would fail to play on every few hits. Trying to get into the thing was pretty daunting. Your video gave me all the information I needed. In my case, it was the PCB for the highest set of keys that was the issue. It had corrosion from a spill. The design of this keyboard kept the liquid neatly contained in just that one area. I got a replacement for that PCB and for its ribbon cable. Worked like a charm. I think the reason the other keys were behaving strangely was that the self-firing high keys were spamming the polyphony. I did have to wait a couple months for the part, but you can imagine how pleased I am that I was able to repair a $700 machine with $30 in parts and shipping. Thanks!
My perfect new P95 Thank you so much for this pair of videos. This week bought a P-95. It was in pretty good shape, but one key was intermittent. (A black key, so not one I would use very much ;-) Based on your videos, I took it apart, inspected it, cleaned it very thoroughly, reassembled it (no missing/leftover pieces!) and it works like a champ. A few comments: 1) I don't know if you mentioned it, but the silicone "sensor strips" are not symmetrical. They look like they are, and they fit either way, but there is a definite upper and lower row. (The difference is the height of the carbon pill inside the dome.) On the top side, for correct orientation, there is a tiny arrow/triangle which is visible in your video. 2) When I went to replace the long screws down between the hammers, I wan't able to see any trace at all of which holes had been used before. I decided to just sort of wing it, spacing them out and being sure that each chunk of keys had one screw, As it turned out, the "wrong" holes didn't have any threads in them: the screw just dropped to the bottom without engaging anything. 3) When re-inserting those ribbon cables into the connectors, I found it helpful to orient things so I could look into the connector. If you don't see where the ribbon cable or wires are supposed to go, it's easy to get it wrong and possibly bend things. They are so flimsy that there is not much margin for error. 4) The bits of fiber tape in my keyboard had no adhesion left. So I just used what I had: plain old Scotch tape. It might be a good idea to plan ahead and have a more appropriate kind of tape ready. 5) My keyboard was a *lot* cleaner than the one you worked on. Yes, there were dust bunnies, cat hair, and (you said it!) glitter, but no sticky accumulation likely to cause corrosion. (I live in a dry climate, so that helps.) 6) The most difficult part of the cleaning process is that there isn't any great way to remove silicone grease. And (for a meticulous cleaning, anyways) it does need to be removed: that's where all the dust and grit accumulates. I basically scooped away globs with a wooden coffee stirrer, and then wiped away as much as I could with paper towels (the tough, public-restroom kind, not the fluffy ones for home.) I removed all of the hammers (keeping them in order!) in order to get at all of the sliding surfaces. For reassembly, I used a wooden coffee stirrer to apply (just enough!) silicone grease. Thanks again for your excellent pair of videos. Not only did they encourage me to take this leap (buying an older used electric piano) but they saved me from mishaps and disaster on several occasions.
You’re a hero. I have the exact digital piano and I could only go as far as unscrewing the bottom part of it. Reason I did that was to self inspect, if only I saw this video before doing it else I would have gone as deep. My issue is that the power button serves no purpose, once it’s powered up the red light stays on. If I turn it off, sure the keys went mute. But the red LED stays on like the eye of Sauron. I was lucky enough to open up the shell and screw it back with no accidents. Seeing how you did it I might need to find myself one fine day to do internal cleaning. Again, you’re a hero, thanks for this video.
Agree with you regarding the great Yamaha documentation . And nice to see how a keyboard is done too . I've said no to a couple of keyboard repair offers lately , and having seen this I'm glad I did . Apart from having no expertise , I knew that the bench space and storage would be a problem . Cheers .
Great to have this video for when my P-125 keys start to fail. A repair shop in Los Angeles told me they were backed up 6 weeks. Charging a 'rush fee' is a big racket in the musical instrument repair business.
Rush fees are normal. You're asking them to do overtime, essentially. They can't put back all the other jobs to fit yours in and be unfair to the other customers, so they need to fulfill the dates they've committed to with the previous clients. And to do that, they need to stay back to do more hours, and of course they need overtime rates to do that.
@@BradsGuitarGarage The solution is simple: Hire more techs until they get caught up on their backlog. But, they don't do that because backlogs = rush fees.
Take it from me, it's nowhere near as simple as that. That would price most repairs out of the range of most people with the added overheads of another employee. That and nobody wants to be a tech for these reasons, so there aren't many viable employees out there.
@@BradsGuitarGarage If you're backed up 6 weeks, you hire more employees. If you have lines of customers around the block, you hire more employees. It's Economics 101.
Thanks for that, Brad. I've just picked up a Yamaha YPP-55 that has 3 or 4 keys intermittently not working. If you hit them hard they work though. So now after watching a couple of videos I'll have a crack at sorting it out.
I guess you're Australian, given the profile pic! Let me know where you are via my website contact form if you have trouble finding the parts or need a local tech to sort it out.
Thanks for great repair video !!! 🎹I have an old P95 with dead keys suspiciously on the same board as the main problem keys on as that one. That said, I finally ran away from all freakin Yama DP's with the industry wide notoriously unreliable: "GH, GHS, GHE, etc" actions after so many models I had go dead key(s) within 3 years of purchase....went to Kawai DP's more stable (mtbfs) and much better dp actions. I have a bit of an electronics and mechanical background and might go ahead do it for fun. Btw, if old milk shake spill and opening a freakin old dirty electronic box makes you almost hurl🤣🤣🤣, be sure to buckle up before you and your wife have kids. 🤢🤒🤧😁Anyway thanks again for the meticulous repair video. 👍
You should be right, mate. Just be careful not to strip the screwholes. Use a drill to unscrew them, but always re-screw them with a suitable screwdriver by hand.
Thanks for the instructional video. It made getting to the key with 5c stuck under it easy. Not as gross as this one, but hair, fibre and dust everywhere - and a piece or two of glitter. You're right. I have no idea why people don't at least put a cover over the keys when the thing isn't being pounded on. I've seen this with a 9' Steinway.
@@BradsGuitarGarage as a dude I’m saying I’m glitter free. With your help, I fixed the P-95 I got for $400 on a stand. Apart from the 5c, middle C only worked if the key was slammed down. I pulled the key bank and lifted up the ‘rubber’ side of the switch, cleaned the board and the carbon contacts with windex and an earbud - voila! Note: 64 screws in and out to accomplish the task. Was expected to be chasing a board, but in this rare case I had success.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Yeah, I'm in OZ. Thanks for the tip, but I have no idea how/who to contact. I checked out the Service Manual and it indicated if there was no part number the item was unavailable. The music stand has no part number. I have seen them for about $90 from Japan on eBay, so I'm getting my rivet gun, welder, hacksaw, etc out of storage and I'll fix the broken one I have.
Brad, you're repair work is not only great, but your camera work as well. I've been considering buying a used weighted P-series keyboard (like my P-105) to chop it down to 49 keys. C2 to C6 so I could take a fully-weighted keyboard in my suitcase when I travel (all over the world, so I could still play for my own enjoyment) The one factor I had not realized, until seeing your video, is that the circuit boards are in 3-full pieces. Would you have any suggestion of how to shorten them to stay within the 28"? Thank You
first of all thanks for the video tutorial. your video is the first one I saw giving a clue about this type of problems related to PCB. So I like to get some more knowledge on that. for example could you enlighten me how I know where to check for continuity? I would be happy if you give me some general incidents related connection checks.
@@BradsGuitarGarage one of like a billion other projects. The Peavey from my comment on your other video is my focus, I've got a few other amps to fix, and a whole garage full of scratch builds, repairs, kits, pedals to build..... Wow, I'm exhausted just thinking about it 😳
Awesome mate! As a C# NET developer I need C# to pay the bills. As a musician I would just tell the bass player pedal on the C# while noodle around it. I subscribed a while back for the amp stuff but I am enjoying the variety and learning a lot. Keep 'em coming.
I did wonder if anyone would comment about the C# language. I've dabbled with C & C+ for fun back in the 486 days as a kid. And C for uC programming, but I'm pretty terrible at it!
@@BradsGuitarGarage Hi man, please can you tell me how can I buy a new rubber from online? cause my keyboards not working and think that the problem is this rubbers. so country didn't find and can't find online too. so if you help me I'll be grateful to you.
@@ნიკაჩაიძე Hi, man, this is not be the rubbers, but could be only dirty or in same cases cold solder in the contacts of main board and contacts of keyboards board.
Do you think there is enough room inside to install an ESP32 development board? I would love to add Bluetooth LE MIDI functionality, without the need for external adaptors by using the Control Surface Arduino library.
I guess the only downside to installing internally is that if you find an issue and need to perform a firmware update, you would need to make a cutout to access the USB-C port.
What can you do if every other time I turn it on, it starts into playing the Demo Song? Is there a way I can fix this or even disable the Song Demo Mode Altogether? Thanks.
You may have a stuck demo button. It may be mechanically stuck, or the switch may have failed or it may have on-board contamination, making the computer think the button has been pressed.
Thanks for all the care and detail on this video. A question: I recently was given a P-105 which only has four keys working per octave (2 white, 2 adjacent black)--they're the same keys on each octave. Is this something that replacing all the individual PCBs could solve, or is something bigger going on? Thanks for any advice you might have
The boards share connections, meeting at the central common board (in these units there are 3 from memory). If the damage is to the central board, there's a chance that it's hit the bus downstream of the other two boards, so it would share issues across all 3 boards, despite the damage perhaps only being limited to the central one. It's often preferable to replace all 3 (they are relatively inexpensive) unless you can confirm for certain that the damage is limited to only one.
Awesome video, super interesting too! Have you ever had to repair the Yamaha p515, another one of Yamaha extremely popular keyboards? I’m thinking of purchasing that keyboard. Would love to see a video of that! Thanks
Sidebar: TV/stereo remote controls use the same type of carbon-conductve circuit-board pads and buttons; schmutz and schmoo often work it's way between the buttons and board, causing intermittent operation. They sometimes clean up okay with just alcohol and a q-tip, but remote controls are often far, far filthier internally than this Yamaha keyboard, and I've sometimes had to scrub everything with soap and water and a toorhbrush, followed by alcohol, and perhaps cleaning the buttons and pads with a pencil eraser. Only worth doing if a new replacement remote, or programmable universal remote that works for a particular model, isn't available. Glad the service manual for this Yamaha keyboard is so detailed....but I can tell you from experience that the service manuals for a Yamaha surround sound receiver are terrible. They typically run well over 100 pages; the old style paper manuals have giant fold-out schematics, but on the more modern stuff they're only available in computerized form, which means that when you electronically enlarge/magnify the schematics they become so grainy and blurry that you can't read them, no matter how high-resolution your monitor.
@@BradsGuitarGarage , if your mate likes chips and beer while he watches TV, I'd want more than just one six-pack for fixing his remote control! PS, the hardest part is often getting the damn thing apart without breaking all the plastic snaps that hold the remote control together. Break more than one and the remote won't clip back together properly....
Wow ---- I didn't know that they use those tv remote control type tactile sensors for these music instruments. I know that the tv remote control ones can be trouble after a while. Rubber boots also probably break down with age. Will be interesting to find out later whether all digital pianos have this same sort of sensor style. The staple inside the keyboard was a bit ridiculous haha. And the amount of dirt build up was indeed quite disgusting. One comment about the servicing of this unit --- is --- that I have seen different levels of care among different 'techs'. I admire the ones that don't have the instrument scratched up (or has scratches) when it is returned to the customer after the servicing is done. So if I were to flip the keyboard upside down, where key surfaces, and top panel surfaces are going to touch the bench --- then I would prefer to have those surfaces rest on a clean and soft surface. This is so that grit on bench or abrasive surfaces don't introduce nicks and scratches to keys and panel surfaces. Also later taking into account of sand/dirt coming out of the keyboard can contaminate bench top surfaces -- so that needs to be considered even if a soft surface is used. Also - when you accidentally allowed the detached key-bed to fall away from the outer cover - where the keyboard impacted the bench ---- that was a brow-raising moment. Should totally be avoided. Otherwise - very nice servicing session.
@@BradsGuitarGarage I can see the matts now. At 4:30 ----- if you can hear tinkly grit or whatever inside, and actually see grit etc on the matt ----- then I wouldn't lay the top-side of somebody's instrument onto the matts. It is disgusting in that the customer somehow allowed that much debris to get into there though.
Got to open it somehow. Stuff keeps coming out of it until I could open it and clean it properly. Should I have gotten the sky-hooks out of the tool box, perhaps?
True. It's not your fault that they allowed so much crud to get into there like that. You did extremely well to trace the issues - so it could be said that their keyboard could have ended up at the dump instead. Yeah ----- get it up on the hoist hahaha. Anyway - nice work with the fix. Very helpful video.
Great helpful video. I have a weird problem on my P95.... the Demo song keeps coming up and playing out of the blue. After i can't switch it off. The only solution i found is switch the piano off for a while and than on, but after about 30min demo songs coming back.... Any ideas on this fix? Cheers
Chiedo scusa ...ma onestamente ho difficolta' a capire dove trovi quella documentazione di yamaha necessaria (o meglio utile) in caso di riparazioni delle tastiere Yamaha ? ...ad esempio dove potrei trovare la documentazione e descrizione necessaria per una eventuale riparazione della tastiera Genos ? sul sito Yamaha inerente proprio la Genos non mi sembra sia presente nessuna documentazione a livello hardware Riguardo la tastiera ammiraglia Yamaha (Genos) .... Grazie anticipatamente !!!
Next time, clean the dust off the key contact boards before removing the rubber contacts, it helps to avoid contaminating the contacts on the board. After you do that and remove the rubber contacts,then you do a second vaccum.
Hi sir, in my roland FP-60X some of the key making untune sound or playing one octave higher and it's usually happen while playing two notes together. May I know what happen to it?
My p-35 while playing it randomly stops sounding all the notes and by pressing the keys, the functions are activated. much like when pressing the function mode. The function button is working properly cause i checked the continuity with the multimeter. then if i turn it off and on will sometimes have a red blinking red light sometimes it will work, but then it does it again :( i don't know what to do, all the components seem fine upon a visual inspection and it is all very clean and corrosion free
Hi,,,I have a much worse issue,,,,about q0 keys didn't work in an old m-audio piano,I opened and discovered the black graphite prt I would have shaded with pencil had Pealed off,,,,,what do I do???? Pls help
I have to disagree about the Yamaha parts availability. Maybe it's an Australia thing but I needed to get some Keybed PCB's and the only one I could find other than an overpriced eBay seller was to order it from the UK.
I have one of these units, but only getting sound out of the left channel. I replaced capacitors C216 and C217 on the AM board with no improvement. Wondering if anyone here has had that problem, or would know what the problem might be. Any help would be much appreciated.
Look carefully for broken solder joints around the output jack area. If all is well there, trace the signal back to where it stops with an oscilloscope and that will lead you closer to the cause.
Hello I allow myself to send this email to see if you have the diagram of the pedal unit socket of the yamaha 105 I have a pedal of another model that I would like to mount thanks a lot for your help
The following pedals are compatible with that model: FC3, LP-5A, LP-5AWH If it's one of them, just plug it in. If it's not, you'd need to download the service manual online and ascertain if the one you have could be appropriated for use with the P-105.
This is a clean keyboard, trust me... I got worse ones... I have pictures lol Btw, i'm curious why you didn't run a wire instead of replacing all the board?
I've done that before and they always come back in a year or two. Once the corrosion has started under the solder mask, it doesn't stop. Boards are cheap and take less time to replace than to repair.
erg all that snot and skin flakes 🤮😱. I would hope if I sent an instrument to be fixed, it would work for a good amount of time after. A good inspection would go a long way towards that. 👍👍
@@BradsGuitarGarage , no, but I like to use language idioms and colloquialisms that people in other countries will appreciate and understand, perhaps even chuckle at. Besides which, language games are fun!
This video was so helpful! I have a P-85 but this is close enough. Had a bunch of high keys that would randomly trigger themselves, and soon after that the rest of the keys would fail to play on every few hits. Trying to get into the thing was pretty daunting. Your video gave me all the information I needed. In my case, it was the PCB for the highest set of keys that was the issue. It had corrosion from a spill. The design of this keyboard kept the liquid neatly contained in just that one area. I got a replacement for that PCB and for its ribbon cable. Worked like a charm. I think the reason the other keys were behaving strangely was that the self-firing high keys were spamming the polyphony.
I did have to wait a couple months for the part, but you can imagine how pleased I am that I was able to repair a $700 machine with $30 in parts and shipping.
Thanks!
Fantastic to hear it helped, mate!
Thanks for letting me know.
My perfect new P95
Thank you so much for this pair of videos. This week bought a P-95. It was in pretty good shape, but one key was intermittent. (A black key, so not one I would use very much ;-)
Based on your videos, I took it apart, inspected it, cleaned it very thoroughly, reassembled it (no missing/leftover pieces!) and it works like a champ.
A few comments:
1) I don't know if you mentioned it, but the silicone "sensor strips" are not symmetrical. They look like they are, and they fit either way, but there is a definite upper and lower row. (The difference is the height of the carbon pill inside the dome.) On the top side, for correct orientation, there is a tiny arrow/triangle which is visible in your video.
2) When I went to replace the long screws down between the hammers, I wan't able to see any trace at all of which holes had been used before. I decided to just sort of wing it, spacing them out and being sure that each chunk of keys had one screw, As it turned out, the "wrong" holes didn't have any threads in them: the screw just dropped to the bottom without engaging anything.
3) When re-inserting those ribbon cables into the connectors, I found it helpful to orient things so I could look into the connector. If you don't see where the ribbon cable or wires are supposed to go, it's easy to get it wrong and possibly bend things. They are so flimsy that there is not much margin for error.
4) The bits of fiber tape in my keyboard had no adhesion left. So I just used what I had: plain old Scotch tape. It might be a good idea to plan ahead and have a more appropriate kind of tape ready.
5) My keyboard was a *lot* cleaner than the one you worked on. Yes, there were dust bunnies, cat hair, and (you said it!) glitter, but no sticky accumulation likely to cause corrosion. (I live in a dry climate, so that helps.)
6) The most difficult part of the cleaning process is that there isn't any great way to remove silicone grease. And (for a meticulous cleaning, anyways) it does need to be removed: that's where all the dust and grit accumulates. I basically scooped away globs with a wooden coffee stirrer, and then wiped away as much as I could with paper towels (the tough, public-restroom kind, not the fluffy ones for home.) I removed all of the hammers (keeping them in order!) in order to get at all of the sliding surfaces. For reassembly, I used a wooden coffee stirrer to apply (just enough!) silicone grease.
Thanks again for your excellent pair of videos. Not only did they encourage me to take this leap (buying an older used electric piano) but they saved me from mishaps and disaster on several occasions.
Thanks for all the tech tips added !!!
You’re a hero. I have the exact digital piano and I could only go as far as unscrewing the bottom part of it. Reason I did that was to self inspect, if only I saw this video before doing it else I would have gone as deep. My issue is that the power button serves no purpose, once it’s powered up the red light stays on. If I turn it off, sure the keys went mute. But the red LED stays on like the eye of Sauron. I was lucky enough to open up the shell and screw it back with no accidents. Seeing how you did it I might need to find myself one fine day to do internal cleaning. Again, you’re a hero, thanks for this video.
Agree with you regarding the great Yamaha documentation . And nice to see how a keyboard is done too . I've said no to a couple of keyboard repair offers lately , and having seen this I'm glad I did . Apart from having no expertise , I knew that the bench space and storage would be a problem . Cheers .
Enjoyable to watch even just for entertainment... you're a nice, decent bloke Brad. Great videos.❤🎉
Great to have this video for when my P-125 keys start to fail. A repair shop in Los Angeles told me they were backed up 6 weeks. Charging a 'rush fee' is a big racket in the musical instrument repair business.
Rush fees are normal. You're asking them to do overtime, essentially.
They can't put back all the other jobs to fit yours in and be unfair to the other customers, so they need to fulfill the dates they've committed to with the previous clients. And to do that, they need to stay back to do more hours, and of course they need overtime rates to do that.
@@BradsGuitarGarage The solution is simple: Hire more techs until they get caught up on their backlog. But, they don't do that because backlogs = rush fees.
Take it from me, it's nowhere near as simple as that. That would price most repairs out of the range of most people with the added overheads of another employee. That and nobody wants to be a tech for these reasons, so there aren't many viable employees out there.
@@BradsGuitarGarage If you're backed up 6 weeks, you hire more employees. If you have lines of customers around the block, you hire more employees. It's Economics 101.
What are they charging you as the standard and the rush fee out of curiosity?
Thanks for that, Brad. I've just picked up a Yamaha YPP-55 that has 3 or 4 keys intermittently not working. If you hit them hard they work though. So now after watching a couple of videos I'll have a crack at sorting it out.
I guess you're Australian, given the profile pic!
Let me know where you are via my website contact form if you have trouble finding the parts or need a local tech to sort it out.
Thanks for great repair video !!! 🎹I have an old P95 with dead keys suspiciously on the same board as the main problem keys on as that one. That said, I finally ran away from all freakin Yama DP's with the industry wide notoriously unreliable: "GH, GHS, GHE, etc" actions after so many models I had go dead key(s) within 3 years of purchase....went to Kawai DP's more stable (mtbfs) and much better dp actions. I have a bit of an electronics and mechanical background and might go ahead do it for fun. Btw, if old milk shake spill and opening a freakin old dirty electronic box makes you almost hurl🤣🤣🤣, be sure to buckle up before you and your wife have kids. 🤢🤒🤧😁Anyway thanks again for the meticulous repair video. 👍
You should be right, mate.
Just be careful not to strip the screwholes.
Use a drill to unscrew them, but always re-screw them with a suitable screwdriver by hand.
Great video! My ribbon cables seem to be soldered, though.
Thanks for the instructional video. It made getting to the key with 5c stuck under it easy. Not as gross as this one, but hair, fibre and dust everywhere - and a piece or two of glitter. You're right. I have no idea why people don't at least put a cover over the keys when the thing isn't being pounded on. I've seen this with a 9' Steinway.
I think there's a little bit of glitter in all of us.
Lol.
@@BradsGuitarGarage as a dude I’m saying I’m glitter free. With your help, I fixed the P-95 I got for $400 on a stand. Apart from the 5c, middle C only worked if the key was slammed down. I pulled the key bank and lifted up the ‘rubber’ side of the switch, cleaned the board and the carbon contacts with windex and an earbud - voila! Note: 64 screws in and out to accomplish the task. Was expected to be chasing a board, but in this rare case I had success.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Do you have a spare music stand for the P-95 lying around?
No, sorry mate. But if you're in Australia I can ship you one.
Yamaha are fantastic for parts.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Yeah, I'm in OZ. Thanks for the tip, but I have no idea how/who to contact. I checked out the Service Manual and it indicated if there was no part number the item was unavailable. The music stand has no part number. I have seen them for about $90 from Japan on eBay, so I'm getting my rivet gun, welder, hacksaw, etc out of storage and I'll fix the broken one I have.
Brad, you're repair work is not only great, but your camera work as well. I've been considering buying a used weighted P-series keyboard (like my P-105) to chop it down to 49 keys. C2 to C6 so I could take a fully-weighted keyboard in my suitcase when I travel (all over the world, so I could still play for my own enjoyment) The one factor I had not realized, until seeing your video, is that the circuit boards are in 3-full pieces. Would you have any suggestion of how to shorten them to stay within the 28"? Thank You
I got a yamaha pacifica, after a fret lvl it is a really good guitar for not much monny. They jave a straight line up in guitars. I like it.
Generally great, underrated guitars. I have the RGX.
first of all thanks for the video tutorial. your video is the first one I saw giving a clue about this type of problems related to PCB. So I like to get some more knowledge on that. for example could you enlighten me how I know where to check for continuity? I would be happy if you give me some general incidents related connection checks.
You need a schematic, available online.
I am stuck with an open P95 😅 I don't know where the super long screws go 😅 your video is helpful
I'm pretty sure the service manual parts diagram shows where each type of screw goes.
Make sure you get the one to suit your specific model.
@@BradsGuitarGarage ooohhh the SERVICE manual! ive never search that! thanks for the tip !
Hey mate. Do you have a fix for the p95 powering up but not sound at all? Thanks heaps champ love the content!
Nice video! I have a pretty nice Roland digital piano that has like 6 dead keys in a row, I really need to rip into it one of these days.
Get a good podcast going on a rainy day, mate. YOU CAN DO IT!
@@BradsGuitarGarage one of like a billion other projects. The Peavey from my comment on your other video is my focus, I've got a few other amps to fix, and a whole garage full of scratch builds, repairs, kits, pedals to build..... Wow, I'm exhausted just thinking about it 😳
Awesome mate! As a C# NET developer I need C# to pay the bills. As a musician I would just tell the bass player pedal on the C# while noodle around it.
I subscribed a while back for the amp stuff but I am enjoying the variety and learning a lot. Keep 'em coming.
I did wonder if anyone would comment about the C# language.
I've dabbled with C & C+ for fun back in the 486 days as a kid.
And C for uC programming, but I'm pretty terrible at it!
@@BradsGuitarGarage Hi man, please can you tell me how can I buy a new rubber from online? cause my keyboards not working and think that the problem is this rubbers. so country didn't find and can't find online too. so if you help me I'll be grateful to you.
@@ნიკაჩაიძე Hi, man, this is not be the rubbers, but could be only dirty or in same cases cold solder in the contacts of main board and contacts of keyboards board.
Do you think there is enough room inside to install an ESP32 development board? I would love to add Bluetooth LE MIDI functionality, without the need for external adaptors by using the Control Surface Arduino library.
I guess the only downside to installing internally is that if you find an issue and need to perform a firmware update, you would need to make a cutout to access the USB-C port.
@@skyblaster7 thats a good idea! Also, I've used an OTA software uploader on esp32 with wifi before, it was kind of a pain but it works
What can you do if every other time I turn it on, it starts into playing the Demo Song? Is there a way I can fix this or even disable the Song Demo Mode Altogether? Thanks.
You may have a stuck demo button.
It may be mechanically stuck, or the switch may have failed or it may have on-board contamination, making the computer think the button has been pressed.
Thanks for all the care and detail on this video.
A question: I recently was given a P-105 which only has four keys working per octave (2 white, 2 adjacent black)--they're the same keys on each octave. Is this something that replacing all the individual PCBs could solve, or is something bigger going on? Thanks for any advice you might have
The boards share connections, meeting at the central common board (in these units there are 3 from memory).
If the damage is to the central board, there's a chance that it's hit the bus downstream of the other two boards, so it would share issues across all 3 boards, despite the damage perhaps only being limited to the central one.
It's often preferable to replace all 3 (they are relatively inexpensive) unless you can confirm for certain that the damage is limited to only one.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks so much--will do
Awesome video, super interesting too! Have you ever had to repair the Yamaha p515, another one of Yamaha extremely popular keyboards? I’m thinking of purchasing that keyboard. Would love to see a video of that! Thanks
Not that one yet, mate.
Sidebar: TV/stereo remote controls use the same type of carbon-conductve circuit-board pads and buttons; schmutz and schmoo often work it's way between the buttons and board, causing intermittent operation. They sometimes clean up okay with just alcohol and a q-tip, but remote controls are often far, far filthier internally than this Yamaha keyboard, and I've sometimes had to scrub everything with soap and water and a toorhbrush, followed by alcohol, and perhaps cleaning the buttons and pads with a pencil eraser. Only worth doing if a new replacement remote, or programmable universal remote that works for a particular model, isn't available.
Glad the service manual for this Yamaha keyboard is so detailed....but I can tell you from experience that the service manuals for a Yamaha surround sound receiver are terrible. They typically run well over 100 pages; the old style paper manuals have giant fold-out schematics, but on the more modern stuff they're only available in computerized form, which means that when you electronically enlarge/magnify the schematics they become so grainy and blurry that you can't read them, no matter how high-resolution your monitor.
Cleaning a mate's faulty remote control is a great way to earn a six-pack for the weekend!
@@BradsGuitarGarage , if your mate likes chips and beer while he watches TV, I'd want more than just one six-pack for fixing his remote control! PS, the hardest part is often getting the damn thing apart without breaking all the plastic snaps that hold the remote control together. Break more than one and the remote won't clip back together properly....
Wow ---- I didn't know that they use those tv remote control type tactile sensors for these music instruments. I know that the tv remote control ones can be trouble after a while. Rubber boots also probably break down with age. Will be interesting to find out later whether all digital pianos have this same sort of sensor style. The staple inside the keyboard was a bit ridiculous haha. And the amount of dirt build up was indeed quite disgusting. One comment about the servicing of this unit --- is --- that I have seen different levels of care among different 'techs'. I admire the ones that don't have the instrument scratched up (or has scratches) when it is returned to the customer after the servicing is done. So if I were to flip the keyboard upside down, where key surfaces, and top panel surfaces are going to touch the bench --- then I would prefer to have those surfaces rest on a clean and soft surface. This is so that grit on bench or abrasive surfaces don't introduce nicks and scratches to keys and panel surfaces. Also later taking into account of sand/dirt coming out of the keyboard can contaminate bench top surfaces -- so that needs to be considered even if a soft surface is used. Also - when you accidentally allowed the detached key-bed to fall away from the outer cover - where the keyboard impacted the bench ---- that was a brow-raising moment. Should totally be avoided. Otherwise - very nice servicing session.
Did you not see the 10mm thick neoprene foam matt under the keyboard?
@@BradsGuitarGarage I can see the matts now. At 4:30 ----- if you can hear tinkly grit or whatever inside, and actually see grit etc on the matt ----- then I wouldn't lay the top-side of somebody's instrument onto the matts. It is disgusting in that the customer somehow allowed that much debris to get into there though.
Got to open it somehow.
Stuff keeps coming out of it until I could open it and clean it properly.
Should I have gotten the sky-hooks out of the tool box, perhaps?
True. It's not your fault that they allowed so much crud to get into there like that. You did extremely well to trace the issues - so it could be said that their keyboard could have ended up at the dump instead. Yeah ----- get it up on the hoist hahaha. Anyway - nice work with the fix. Very helpful video.
Great helpful video. I have a weird problem on my P95.... the Demo song keeps coming up and playing out of the blue. After i can't switch it off. The only solution i found is switch the piano off for a while and than on, but after about 30min demo songs coming back.... Any ideas on this fix? Cheers
Perhaps run a jumper on the other side point to point? Obviously you know if that's possible since I don't have the board here to look at.
What about the Yamaha YDP 223 that won't power on? Thanks
Wow. Thanks a lot Bro.
25:22 why not repair the trace?
Chiedo scusa ...ma onestamente ho difficolta' a capire dove trovi quella documentazione di yamaha necessaria (o meglio utile) in caso di riparazioni delle tastiere Yamaha ? ...ad esempio dove potrei trovare la documentazione e descrizione necessaria per una eventuale riparazione della tastiera Genos ? sul sito Yamaha inerente proprio la Genos non mi sembra sia presente nessuna documentazione a livello hardware Riguardo la tastiera ammiraglia Yamaha (Genos) .... Grazie anticipatamente !!!
I got a yamaha p70 off the side of the road. All the g below middle c dont work. Hopefully i can fix it
Next time, clean the dust off the key contact boards before removing the rubber contacts, it helps to avoid contaminating the contacts on the board. After you do that and remove the rubber contacts,then you do a second vaccum.
Hi sir, in my roland FP-60X some of the key making untune sound or playing one octave higher and it's usually happen while playing two notes together. May I know what happen to it?
Likely problems with the pitch shifter wheel potentiometer and octave switches.
@@BradsGuitarGarage thanks
where do you buy PCBs from? are they OEM Yamaha or replacement boards?
The first frame of the part 2 video holds all your answers.
@@BradsGuitarGarage thanks !!!
My p-35 while playing it randomly stops sounding all the notes and by pressing the keys, the functions are activated. much like when pressing the function mode. The function button is working properly cause i checked the continuity with the multimeter. then if i turn it off and on will sometimes have a red blinking red light sometimes it will work, but then it does it again :( i don't know what to do, all the components seem fine upon a visual inspection and it is all very clean and corrosion free
Get in touch with Yamaha if you're not in Sydney, mate.
They'll let you know who the nearest service tech is.
Pls where or how can I buy the carbon conductive strip
Your local Yamaha distributor or service center.
Hi,,,I have a much worse issue,,,,about q0 keys didn't work in an old m-audio piano,I opened and discovered the black graphite prt I would have shaded with pencil had Pealed off,,,,,what do I do????
Pls help
M-Audio?
Throw it in the bin and buy another one.
Really?? 😢 😭 😢 😭
Unfortunately, the piano suddenly stopped making a sound. Can you tell me what's wrong with it? power is still available.thank you very much…
Sorry mate, can't find my crystal ball.
I suggest you take it to a local reputable tech.
How much for a fixing like that? Thanks
About $300au +tax +parts
sir..where to order boards for yamaha P95.. can you plz give me a link
No link. Not available online. I have no idea where you are.
Call your local Yamaha distributor or dealer.
I have to disagree about the Yamaha parts availability. Maybe it's an Australia thing but I needed to get some Keybed PCB's and the only one I could find other than an overpriced eBay seller was to order it from the UK.
Are you a business? Or a repair center?
Did you contact your local Yamaha distributor directly?
I have one of these units, but only getting sound out of the left channel. I replaced capacitors C216 and C217 on the AM board with no improvement. Wondering if anyone here has had that problem, or would know what the problem might be. Any help would be much appreciated.
Look carefully for broken solder joints around the output jack area.
If all is well there, trace the signal back to where it stops with an oscilloscope and that will lead you closer to the cause.
Hello
I allow myself to send this email to see if you have the diagram of the pedal unit socket of the yamaha 105 I have a pedal of another model that I would like to mount
thanks a lot for your help
The following pedals are compatible with that model:
FC3, LP-5A, LP-5AWH
If it's one of them, just plug it in.
If it's not, you'd need to download the service manual online and ascertain if the one you have could be appropriated for use with the P-105.
This is a clean keyboard, trust me... I got worse ones... I have pictures lol
Btw, i'm curious why you didn't run a wire instead of replacing all the board?
I've done that before and they always come back in a year or two. Once the corrosion has started under the solder mask, it doesn't stop. Boards are cheap and take less time to replace than to repair.
erg all that snot and skin flakes 🤮😱. I would hope if I sent an instrument to be fixed, it would work for a good amount of time after. A good inspection would go a long way towards that. 👍👍
17+ minutes in, and I do hope we're not gonna have to watch you chunder!
"Chunder" you must be from a commonwealth country, then!
@@BradsGuitarGarage , no, but I like to use language idioms and colloquialisms that people in other countries will appreciate and understand, perhaps even chuckle at. Besides which, language games are fun!
10 keys
Maybe the owner only play those modern breakdown one note metal. lol
You could still use it for that single A note at the end of 'Under The Bridge' by RHCP, I guess.
Most of that schmoo and dust is dead human skin wear a dust mask
69 views... now 70 sorry
Oh well, it was good while it lasted. Lol.