ไม่สามารถเล่นวิดีโอนี้
ขออภัยในความไม่สะดวก
Ride 4 | Updated!! Set-up Guide Version 2.0 - Physics Model Changes! | Xbox One X
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ส.ค. 2024
- First of all a massive thank you to everyone that has watched my original set-up guide. It is by far and away my most popular video. I was mega nervous about doing it as it's easy to look like you're talking utter shite if you don't get it spot on and back it up some tangible evidence. The comments I get are amazing, and without that positive feedback I'd lose interest in the channel quite quickly. Enough of my ramblings, onwards to V2.0!
Milestone have updated the physics model for Ride 4, so I thought I'd update my set-up guide. It's not a whole ne video, the basics are covered in the first one here - • Ride 4 | Set-up Guide ...
The update centres around the way the rebound and compression settings work in relation to spring hardness. It's much simpler now, thank the Lord, and you don't have to spend ages mucking about to find a half decent set-up. It it faster? oh hell yes it is, just about 1.5 seconds faster around UMC, which isn't too bad. It's also much easier to keep heat in the tyres on the smaller bikes, well the front one at the very least.
Hope it helps you go quicker, any questions about set-ups, fire them in the comments.
Thanks for watching, stay safe, peace.
![[UNCUT] ชาวบ้านถาม “นายกอุ๊งอิ๊งค์” ประชาชนมีกิน มีใช้ กี่โมง? I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 16 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tKZvOzLIJJc/mqdefault.jpg)
I watched the suspension set up video and it's made a huge difference to how I set the bike up but more importantly my lap times are dropping n I'm crashing less because the bike is more stable than before.
DO YOURSELF A FAVOUR and WATCH the video.
Big thanks mate
No problem buddy. Glad you enjoyed and I'm glad it helped 👍👍
holy sh*t, your set up helps me beat those time attacks by 2 secs!
Your set up guide videos are excellent, helped me out massively, I also ride and have for over 20 years including a bit of racing and I had tried to apply real world knowledge to the game, after watching the two videos I now understand why this wasn't working! I had got really confused, you should do more guides you have a knack for it :)
Cheers Matthew, I appreciate you watching and commenting.
I went through exactly what you did, and there wasn't really anything that made sense to my 'real' motorbike brain. There's still the odd bike that is a pain in the arse, that no matter what you do it's either a pig to ride or just won't heat the tyres.
When you say other guides, what did you have in mind??? I did one for setting up the gearing track to track, but it sounded so condescending I never put it out, I hated myself by the end of it. 🤣👍
@@MotoMartino79 gearing was one I was thinking about, its one I have never seen a guide on, also the differences between the throttle/brake settings, aggressive seems to be what everyone suggests but no one seems to be able to say why, braking is another one I'm slowly getting to grips with how you can brake much later into a bend than you think and slowly release the brake until the apex (trail braking) ,rake and trail is another thing I have never seen mentioned in other guides.
Do you set up differently in the wet to the dry? honestly there's a LOT to figure out in the game and very little out there on a whole bunch of it, braking is a big one for me, seems in the time trials the top guys can brake WAY later than I can and still can't fully figure out how they are doing it!
Another one I thought while watching your replays which I enjoy is maybe having a voice over talking through the track and what you're doing/thinking as you're doing it.
Something I have been playing around with again that I have not seen mentioned that I need to do more testing with but you may already know the answers, the lean style seems to make a difference to cornering, I did have it set for the big lean off the bike but I am convinced this causes you to have less lean angle and slower corner speeds, I have not tested the other one yet, forget the name but the old school style.
Also I don't think auto tuck in works correctly, I have been toying with the 300 on long straights, auto tuck vs manual seems to definitely be slower, I have set tuck to A and put it on manual using the A button to tuck then holding back on the left joystick before a bend, then release the A button and its like deploying an air brake.
So much! lol
Excellent ! Simplifying the set up is great I'm at present at brands hatch On the Aprilia naked. I matched the springs and shocks and ITS WORKING. 👍 Still haven't finished the race . I'm in first person ITS TORTURE LOL Keep up the good work
Glad it helped 👍👍. The 1st person view breaks me, I'm useless in it 🤣
I can't thank enough...just tried it and bike feels more responsive....that is what I was searching in entire TH-cam....thank you again
You are more than welcome, I'm just glad it keeps on working! 👍👍✌️
I only found your last set up video a couple of weeks ago, using it and am loving it, can't wait to use this one
Your are very welcome buddy, and thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it ✌👍
Took over 2 seconds a lap off my time setting bike up, hardly ever loose front end anymore. 🙏👊
My man MotoMartino with the good tips for our bikes in Ride 4! Thanks mate. God bless brother!
Your are very welcome Sir. Stay safe brother, peace ✌
Thanks Bro for that movie you helped me a lot, You'r LEGEND :)
Your are very welcome buddy.
Thank you for watching and commenting 👍👍✌
Amazing videos mate!
Cheers buddy, much appreciated 👍👍✌️
Thank feck in Christ you exist, I'd almost given up trying to work out what makes me love this game yet hate it too!! Thanks for the update and explanations it's really helped big man. I don't suppose you maybe able to shed any light as to why all qualifying sessions only allow me too change gear up and not down it's buggin the tits off me. Cheers bud keep it up
'feck in Christ' 🤣 almost choked on a Kit Kat when I read that, very good 👍. Glad it helped and you enjoyed it. As for the gear change thing, you saying it only happens in qualifying? Seems weird it would only happen then. I take it you've checked all the controller assignments and tried reassigning the gear down button? I'd start there and then maybe see if there's a difference in the game settings for qualifying. The Endurance races will hold a different setting to the other races, so would be worth a check. Other than that, apart from a sticky button I'd say a glitch/bug. You playing on console or PC?
@@MotoMartino79 thank you for your speedy reply it's much appreciated, as for the gear changing thing well I've re-asigned several buttons to suit my own particular tastes however I don't thing it's that. Everything works like a dream all the time accept for when they bloody throw a qualifying session in before a racing modified 7 Lap race usually at night with no lights 😉 so after trying desperately to accomplish a decent lap time in 6th gear and being rewarded with last on the grid you can imagine I start off full of trepidation for the race. Low and behold the gears now work and I high side at the first corner.oh it's on console the old version on Xbox. Anyhow cheers again chief for your efforts
@@joethornton2249 can you switch to semi auto for qualifying?
@@MotoMartino79 Genius! Sure I've not even thought of doing that, I'll give it a whirl after work by golly. Cheers fella
@Bert Scrogshaw I'll certainly give it a shot see if it sorts it, I've used manual gears since bloody Moto GP 15 so I probably will not like it ha cheers buddy
Thank you for sharing the hard work sir! On a side note, your voice reminds me a little of Carl Pilkington.
You are very welcome Sir. With regards to my voice, are you inferring I sound like I'm from Manchester or that I do nothing but moan all the time?? 🤣🤣👍👍
@@MotoMartino79 Not to worry, just the accent.
Awesome videos mate
Thanks Tony, glad you enjoyed them.
Thank you for watching, commenting & subscribing, I really appreciate it 👍👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 real shame this game isn’t cross platform I’d of joined you for some track time I do ride 4 on my channel Naburust but iam on ps5 mate and considerably slower than you 😂
@@bigt18cross yeah the lack of cross platform is an arse really. I'll have a look and return the sub.
Fast doesn't always mean good though 😉😉😒😒🤣🤣👍👍✌✌
When you say drop the pre-load down for more lean angle or vice versa if you need less.... Do you move both sliders together or just the front/rear depending on the track or bike? I can tweak the setups to make it feel better but sometimes don't really understand what I've done, it just kind of works.... If that makes sense
These videos are helpful af! Really wish this and the other Moto games had a bigger community to recognise the work you put in!
Hi Rhys, thanks for watching and commenting buddy, I really appreciate it. And thank you for the kind words, they are reward enough for all the effort.
Right, preload and its effect on the bike.
Front - if you are falling off the edge of the tyres in corners when the bike is cranked right over, INCREASE the front preload +1 click until it stops. This might cause the bike to understeer, if it does, increase the rear preload by the same number of clicks to neutralise the increased front ride height.
Rear - if the bike is stepping sideways as you apply the throttle, when the bike is leant over, INCREASE rear preload +1 click AND decrease rear spring rate -1 click to offset the higher back end. If you increase preload and don't decrease spring rate, the bike will want to wheelie all over the shop.
If you are losing the front on the brakes, I would increase SPRING HARDNESS, if the bike is fine mid corner. If you do increase spring hardness, remember to increase COMPRESSION by the same number of clicks.
That should work for most bikes, but I appreciate it will depend on your 'riding style' more than anything, so it might need a bit tweaking to feel right for you. Tyre temperature is the key to the whole thing, get them green and you are 80% there, after that it's just a click here or there to fine tune. In some cases, 1 click either way on front preload can be worth a second a lap if you hit the sweet spot.
As a start point, I always use a 2 & 8 base set-up on every bike to start with and run MEDIUM tyres front and rear. Tyre compound doesn't seem to affect lap times too much, maybe a second from SOFT to HARD, but it's easier to switch tyres than it is piss about with the set-up. If the MEDIUM runs COLD switch to a SOFT, if it runs HOT switch to a HARD.
Preload = F2 R8
Spring Hardness = F8 R2 (always reverse your preload settings as a base)
Rebound = F4 R1 ( half of Spring Hardness for both F + R)
Compression = F8 R1 (front matches Spring H, the rear is halved)
I'll always graduate my gearing, so set 1st to 0 clicks (full left) and add 1 click for 2nd, 2 for 3rd etc so 6th should be 5 clicks or bang in the middle. For any gearing changes I adjust the FINAL RATIO unless I'm smashing the limiter in 6th, then I'll run 6th longer as required.
Calibrations are always set to aggressive as it transfers the weight front to rear much quicker, allowing for much better fine tuning of the Comp and Rebound settings.
Smaller bikes will need softer springs and tyres, big phat things like ZZR1400s and Hedgeabusers will need harder springs and tyres etc.
Pick a bike you enjoy using and a track you know really well, start from a 2 & 8 and adjust 1 thing at a time to see what it does. UMC Outer is my go-to when I'm trying to figure a bike out, as it puts a high cornering load through the tyres and is bumpy, so you can easily see what does and doesn't work.
I've done just over a thousand miles on the 2010 Aprilia RSV-R, and it's now at a stage where I only ever change tyres.
Hope this helps bud, any issues or questions just fire away. Stay safe. 👍👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 So it's been a few weeks since you helped me out and I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!! Following this little guide plus your comment has basically made me fall in love with time trial and finding setups. I also do endurance races just for fun cause I like riding the bike uninterrupted for an hour haha.(I hope with all my heart they add a mid-session save for endurance races in the next game)
I've sent a link of this comment to several people of reddit in the hopes it'll help them as well.
Thanks!
@@rhysblythe buddy, you are very welcome. Thanks for the update, I really appreciate it.
I'm glad you've love it, I know I do, especially the endurance races, they are mega. You're 100% right, mid-point saves are the way forward, the 8 & 12-hours races are a pain in the arse to do.
Share it far and wide my friend, the more that we help out the better.
If you ever need some help with a set-up, or second opinion, please don't hesitate to ping me a msg. 👍👍✌✌
@@MotoMartino79 finally back on Ride, forgot how much I enjoyed it!!
I'm having an issue keeping ANY temp in the rear tires on some bikes eg. Ducati 750cc, Aprilia rm).
Instead of moving the hardness down, does dropping the preload add more heat/energy(I've tried but just seems to heat up the front)?
Or any clues about what I could try?
@@rhysblythe hi buddy, welcome back.
Ref the rear tyre heat, dropping the rear preload will increase heat a little but you'll have to massage the other rear settings to offset the preload change. It will also push the front end as the weight distribution will have changed, hence the front getting hot.
You would be better dropping the rear spring hardness by 1 and increasing the rear compression by 1. This should reduce the preload (as preload is linked to spring rate in theory) and help speed up the compression of the rear end under power. It might make it understeer a little if you go more than 1 click on each of your changes., so go steady
There's a 2002 R6 set-up video coming out tomorrow, where I talk about getting heat into the rear, might be worth a look and make more sense if you see it in action.
What bikes exactly are you using? I'll have a tinker with them this afternoon and ping you a set-up if I can work it out.
Ta 👍👍
Question, so is Rebound and Compression patched then? Does that mean I have to move the bar to the right to make the shock absorber harder?
I'm treating everything here as gospel and so far so good!!!
I feel a little expectation management is required 🤣🤣👍👍
What does it mean when your rear tyre gets really narrow
top and helped a lot
no problem buddy.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it 👍👍✌
You speak as though the setup is the the on variable at play in your lap times. How well you take corners etc is more at play.
I 100% agree with you buddy. Teaching or giving hints on how people should 'play' the game just isn't practicable. Setting the bikes up, as in getting the tyres into a manageable heat zone and hopefully allowing people to understand how set-up changes effect the bike, should enable those that want to, to go faster.
Think about it like a cup of tea. The way you make tea, is in theory, pretty similar: water + leaves + a vessel to hold the resulting liquid = tea. How hot that tea is when you drink it is up to you. I can show you how to make it, explain the risks involved, but you ultimately have to decide what's best for you.
I've tried to approach RIDE4 the same way. I can help explain how the bikes react to set-up changes, as well as how you can make changes to effect tyre temperature / reaction speed / lean angle etc, but when you actually brake and / or turn in is up to you.
I personally like to carry as much corner speed as possible, others like to square or V corners off. Knowing how to set the bike up is half the battle in becoming faster. My way needs a slightly softer reaction from the bike and plenty of lean angle. The other way requires faster reactions from the bike (via increased preload settings) and a more resilient front end (stiffer springs & a harder tyre compound), but you run the risk of more understeer if the set-up isn't quite right.
The set-up videos were never about trying to be or act like I am or was the fastest. There's way too much of that all over TH-cam already. They were intended to be a 'hey, have a think about this, and look at how the bike changes and it will probably help you go faster'. It took me a long time to get to 120% AI difficulty and I'm happy to admit I still struggle to keep up. I also get the set-up more wrong than right, but I only know this by having some sort of grasp on the way the physics model works.
I really appreciate you watching and commenting, and I thank you for taking the time to do so. If I have misrepresented my intentions I apologise, and I genuinely take all feedback on board, to try and make videos that are accessible for people who play the game at all levels.
Take care, stay safe 👍👍✌
p.s. as for the tea, I'm more of a coffee guy, as long as it's not too hot!! 😉😉
I just turn on my Xbox and press play. Is this why I struggle to win a race?
Possibly, or you could have the controller backwards, or maybe upside down?? You are turning the TV on when you play, yes? 🤣🤣
All jesting aside, it's a bloody hard game when you ratchet the AI up. I hate it just as much as I love it! 👍👍✌
If you could bud. Just uploaded RIDE 4 First person at Monza . Love your Opinion. Cheers STEPHEN SMITH
I'll have a look, what the exact video name? 👍
RIDE 4 .First person at Monza.🤟
@@StephenSecretSSmith0007 I've had a look buddy and it looks ok. The 1st person view is mega hard, so give yourself some help and use the racing line aid for a bit. You are way too early on the brakes so set the racing line to braking points only, and it will help you get used to where you need to brake. At Monza the braking points are usually just before the advertising bridges across the track, apart from the front straight which is about at 250m ish. If you go to time trial and have a few laps, I'll do the same in 1st person and we can use each others ghost to get better, assuming you're on xbox of course. Last question, what are electronics settings are you using for TC, EB & TC? Bike looks a little nervous when you are getting on the throttle, if we could tame that you will go much quicker 👍👍
It's AE 2 EB 2 TC 0 . The bike maybe look UNSTABLE! It's really not I turned EB To 1 and the bike was just WRONG lol Yip I'm in XBOX Take care Cheers P S Will defo brake l8r ,💪💪
@Bert Scrogshaw THNKS bud .It really is so immersive. I've a few vids same thing. Just don't ride any other way and you will obviously get better. It's harder because I'm looking back at the right moment to ENHANCE The IMMERSION. Take care n B SAFE! 🤟🤟
What about ABS on or off ?!
Your choice buddy, I run without it but it doesn't make a huge difference in the dry. In the wet it's a nice safety net 👍✌
Utah is among easiest flat as pancake settings don't matter there what about all the races where you can't defeat AI regardless of messing with settings forever
Geert, my apologies for not communicating the intentions of the video clearly enough, but in the same breath, thank you for reaching out and getting in touch.
You are correct, Utah is flat and it's also fast. The reason I used it wasn't to provide a setting that works everywhere, it was to show how changing the suspension settings effects the way the bikes handle and heat the tyres up, allowing for finer control and ultimately faster lap times. Everybike handles slightly differently, and whilst I would move to provide a set up for all the bikes at every track in all conditions, I fear I don't have enough laps of the Sun left to accomplish such a task.
You are also correct on your second point, the AI are sometimes impossible to beat. So we have 2 options, turn the difficulty down, or try to understand how the physics model works, so we can adjust the set up of the bike accordingly.
Now the first option is entirely up to you, and I will be of no use whatsoever. The second option is more my cup of tea, and I'm willing to offer any help I can. Let me know the details of the race or races in question and I'll be more than happy to offer any knowledge I have.
The more knowledge we share, the stronger we become as a community, meaning we succeed more as a whole at a very difficult game.
Take care buddy, stay safe, peace ✌
What about RM bikes. What do you run for trail/rake
Hi Nick, thanks for getting in touch. For the RM bikes I tend to drop the trail/rake down as I drop the preload down ( towards the left). Lower preload will slow the bike down from side to side, as in how fast it tips into a corner and changes direction. The rake & trail adjustment compensates for this by speeding it up again, by making the steering angle steeper and shortening the wheelbase.
For example, the RM Yamaha R1s all like to wheelie way too much. To counter this, I drop the preload right down on the rear, maybe 1 or 2 clicks at most, and run the rear spring somewhere between 1 & 5 clicks, depending on ambient temperature and tyre compound being used. This makes the bike very slow to react and prone to understeer. To counter this, I'll drop the rake / trail down to 1, 2 or 3 clicks to get the rate of response I want combined with forward drive rather than wheelies.
What works on one bike, might ruin the handling of another, so it's all a bit subjective and can be very frustrating.
When I refer to clicks, fully left is 0 (zero) fully right is 10 (ten). The default setting is 5 for everything.
@@MotoMartino79 wow, that was an extremely well explained answer. Thank you very much for replying. My only other question would be, are you saying you balance the trail/rake, or do you do x amount of rake and x amount of trail?
@@benzobag thanks buddy and you are very welcome, knowledge shared makes everyone faster 😉👍.
You are correct ref balancing the rake and trail. I'm playing with it at the moment, but I'm not convinced the physics model is advanced enough to separate the two at present. I could be wrong but it looks like it's similar to the preload in the game, where it's a sliding scale as opposed to a coherent model for spring engagement based on rider weight, leverage ratios and spring actuation.
In the 'real' world, a bike running cock all rear preload with a steep steering angle and ultra short wheelbase, would either try to fire you to the moon and/or snap your wrists at every available opportunity. 🤣✌👍
@@MotoMartino79 I have a 2019 mt 10 that wheelies me straight to the moon and a 2018 zx14r se and my wrists are permanently snapped 😆 I threw you a like and subscribe, of course. Personally, for some reason, I run 0 rake and 2 or 3 clicks for trail. Try it out, curious of your options on wether or not it helps with turn-in. Cheers my friend
@@benzobag you are a gentleman buddy, I really appreciate it. Ref the MT10 and ZX14, first I hope you mean you have those in game otherwise we can't be friends 🤣🤣two mega bikes. Second, do you run those rake and trail settings for all RM bikes? I'll be doing some more videos later for the next couple of weeks, so I'll definitely try it out. Wheelies vs turn in is the constant battle set up wise for me, well that and riding off the side of the rear tyre because the rear preload is too low 😭👍✌
Too much info and confusing
Sorry Victor, there's no easy way around the physics model. But in a nutshell stick to the following.
If the tyres are red - add spring hardness to the affected tyre, then match your compression and rebound settings.
If the tyre is blue - remove spring hardness from the affected tyre, then match your compression and rebound settings.
Start off with a soft or medium tyre, if you run out of suspension adjustment you'll need to go to a harder (suspension at 10 far right) or softer (suspension at 0 far left)
If the bike is turning too slow - remove preload at the front & add preload at the rear.
If the bike is turning too fast - add preload at the front & remove preload at the rear.
If the bike wheelies too much, remove -2 rear preload, then add +1 to rear spring hardness.
You want to be aiming to get the tyres nice and green, you'll be much quicker and consistent that way. 👍👍✌