I put a copper wire through the drain..hooked it to the heating element and NO MORE problems! I pushed almost 2 feet into the drain hole. I don't know if that much was necessary but it worked! And that's after I paid 2 repairmen to come out who did nothing other than to thaw the ice out with MY blow dryer. Thank you all you guys on TH-cam who told me how to do it! PS I'm a woman...nothing stops me! It's been 6 months and it's working perfectly.
@SALTYPECKER for awhile. I'd say it helped for another 2 years until I got the $ together for my new Frigidaire SBS. Just FYI I'm not thrilled with it because there's much less space but that's because I thought it would be ok for 1 person. We get spoiled don't we?
Tonight I used your excellent video to find the iced up drain in our Samsung RB215 refrig purchased in 2013 which was having water flowing into our veggie drawers every other day, which started about a week ago. Of course not having a Turkey Baster we had to run out and buy one at Walmart -- $2. Well spent as we can always use one in the house anyway. All went well in getting the panel off and clearing up the ice jam. But when we re-plugged back in the refrig after being unplugged for about an hour for the repair process and my wife wanting to clean everything out. The darn refrig would not restart when we plugged it back in. After sitting there and scratching my head as to what I could have done wrong, and taking the panel off and re-plugging in the connectors three times, thinking maybe I did those steps wrong. I became an expert at unsnapping that panel and the connectors and resnapping things back in place. :-) During that time the time was flying by and the freezer compartment was getting warmer and warmer. About 3 hours into the project, and me scratching my head as to what possibly I could have done wrong with the disassembly and reassembly multiple times and carefully checking each step of that process, and the refrig would still not restart when plugged back in, my wife found something while googling online about Samsung frigs not wanting to restart when power is off for a period of time. After plugging the frig back in, if it won't restart automatically, one has to press two buttons simultaneously for about 10 seconds to RESET the computer that controls the frig. Then in about 5 minutes the frig started up. I'm not sure exactly which two buttons one has to press simultaneously for the various models. If others know some good links on the computer RESET technique for various Samsung computerized refrigs, please post a follow on link. But in my case it was the freezer button and the refrig button simultaneously for 10 seconds, then release them, and then wait for a few minutes, and it started up. Boy, were we happy to hear that compressor start up. I was almost ready to run out and buy a cheap chest freezer at HomeDepot to save our frozen foods. But all is well now. Thanks again for your very well done video. I hope the twisted copper wire trick works. If not, I'm going to try this clip on gadget: www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-clip-drain-evap-da61-06796a-ap5579885.html Thanks again.
About your problem of fridge not starting up after powered off for a while, I had the same problem. My is GE but it looks like this Samsung refrigerator in video. Some one said Samsung makes GE refrigerator. Anyway, my "error code" was "88" with the rightmost "8" flashing. My solution, after reading, reading, and more reading, to re-start the refrigerator was to hold down left-most ("ice off") and right-most ("energy saver") buttons of my "Internal Control Model" for 10 seconds. This would not help you, but hopefully it will help others.
I'm a stay-at-home-mom who studied History, but I was able to follow these instructions to *hopefully* fix our Samsung fridge. (Though I used a store-bought replacement part instead of using copper wire.) The instructions were clear and I think I followed them well to fix our problem. Thank you so much for letting me avoid a service call for an easy repair!
I have a GE Profile refrigerator that looks identical to this Samsung. After trying many things, including a longer defroster wire, I finally decided that the drain line was simply icing up, since it goes INSIDE the insulation and next to the freezer. I took a utility knife and cut open the back of the metal casing, directly behind where the drain line is, on the back of the unit. I carefully dug out the insulation with a wood chisel, cut the drain line with a garden shear, and put in a transition piece to get from the 5/8 inch tube to a 3/8 vinyl tube and ran it down the OUTSIDE of the back and into the pan under the fridge. I then put some expanding foam in the "open" hole I made and so far, so good. The water is now draining freely down the tube. It cannot freeze if it's on tyhe outside. Absolutely try the longer clip after you defrost the drain line, but before you get rid of the fridge, maybe try moving the drain line to the outside of the unit.
Thanks for the idea about the heat sync on the heating element. My drain tube was completely frozen for more than a foot. Before I did the boiling water treatment I removed and cleaned the drain tube at the floor. I found debris in one piece, cleaned it and opened the holes a little to allow better water flow. It's been an hour and it's cooling nicely again!
one other thing that I have seen as an alternative is actually wrapping the wire around the heating coil for several loops instead of snaking it through the tab. Intuitively that seems like it would provide for a better heat transfer from the heating element to the copper.
Before tearing apart fridge, try keeping taller items out from under the LED light, as instructed in manual. There is an air sensor located around the light that must not be blocked. After following this instruction, there has been no problem with water or ice build up.
After being vexed by the problem for 6+ years on my RF267ABBP, I ran across this video and VOILA.....I heard angels singing! I performed the operation over 9 days ago, and detect no ice/water in the bottom of the refrig. box. Needless to say, this has greatly influenced any purchase decision regarding a future purchase of a Samsung refrigerator, which means a Samsung purchase will NOT be happening. Many thanks for taking the time to publish this video. Maybe a Samsung engineer will notice it to effect future builds......oh wait....that Samsung engineer should've been fired already!
Exactly as you showed and said. Thank you Paul. The entire water runoff tray was completely iced over and covering the drain hole. On my model RB1955VQ made in April 2004, there was no heating element. So it appears that over time, the engineers tried to fix the issue. Your vid gave me the confidence that I could at least attempt the maintenance. I removed the cover, thawed the ice with a hair dryer until certain the condensate was weeping into the lower runoff tube and tray at base. Then, had some foil tape on hand to resecure things inside around the tray. Just turned it back on, we shall see....
@@pauld9516 ow is yours running now ? I'm having the frozen rear wall issue with fan frozen solid. I will be trying your fix, still have to look up your other video. Nice to see your monitoring your TH-cam video posts
Great video. Thanks for sharing. My Samsung hid the anti freeze part deep down underneath the spirals. Was very fidly too stick on. But i managed it. Saved me i guess $250 and fridge is not leaking anymore :)
Paul, I have question I cannot find an answer for. You did this ONLY for the Refrigerator side correct? I recently had this issue in my freezer where water was pooling and the drain was iced over, I discovered upon removal of the plate. I poured hot water in it until I saw it draining freely. I went to back of the fridge and removed that plate so I could see that drain tube and saw another drain tube as well. Do the fridge compartment and freezer have separate coils and drains? Thanks
iceman8801 I did not do anything in the freezer section of this refrigerator. Sorry I cannot be of more assistance. I have not had any issues with the freezer portion of the fridge that I have.
I see why now .. it's a french door and we have the RS265TDRS side-by-side. I'm just curious if both, the fridge and the freezer, have independent systems (coil, drain, etc) seeing how there is no hole or connection in the divider separating the fridge and freezer compartments. When I noticed water freezing in the bottom of the freezer I also had some water in the bottom of the fridge side, but as I said, I could not figure out where it was coming from UNLESS they share that drain that was clogged.
Turns out this is only part of the solution. There are two vertical plastic drain pipes on the rear bottom of the refrigerator behind the rear cover that drain the water from the freezer and refrigerator into the drain pan. Both these tubes have small vinyl valves (like heart valves) that can clog and prevent the water from draining. I had to trim the valves to allow the water to fully drain.
OK, took the bottom back panel off and clipped the restrictive device and water poured out. So those of you that did this did you need to thaw out the inside also????????
Thanks for the video. We have GE Profile fridge from 2008. I believe it was manufactured by Samsung as it has the exact same configuration, same parts, and the same issue. We are trying the copper wire repair on it this weekend since I am tired of calling the service technician to deal with it every couple of years. I think all he ever does is de-ice it.
Thanks for the great video and step by step process. The only thing I modified was to use braided copper wire, which was easier to wrap around the heating coil.
I have a 2017 model. Can you believe they are STILL designing theses fridges the same way? Samsung has made a better drain evaporator clip. So I replafed it with the new one. I also took copper wires and wrapped it around the heater on either side of the new drain clip and extended the wire down and then bent it parallel with the drain pan for a few inches. I also insulated the wires and the top pipes to prevent frosting. The defrost sensor wire gets frozen. A company told me that this part is a common issue. I think it's because moisture builds up inside tgec wife from the frosted condenser. So I insulated it to prevent that. Someone also suggested to make sure the fridge is level in the front but to level the front higher than the back so that the pitch of the fridge ensures that the water drains properly. It's only been a few days, but it's much better. We still get a smidge of water ...drops... So I'm not sure if it's totally fixed... But let me tell you... I'm never buying Samsung (Sam-dung) again. Piece of junk.. horrible engineering.
Before you take the entire inside out of the refrigerator, take off the bottom plate on the back of the refrigerator. There are two gray drain pipes. They just pull off and there is a little flexible valve inside. Clean those out, or snip off the bottom and put them back. As soon as I took the right side one out, a gush of water came down. We took the whole inside apart for nothing. They wanted to sent a repairman out to diagnose the problem for $95.00. We did it for $0.
This video saved me a visit from repairman. I am single mom and this was a great video. I do have a question: what drains from the grey drain tube on the left side, back of the bottom of fridge? The bottom of the valve was closed shut and I had to pry it open. Thanks for the great video.
Awesome. Cannot wait to tackle this fix ASAP. Been living with this issue for a couple of years on my GE Profile. So far, I just remove the ice below the tray periodically. Getting tired of it. Now that I am semi-retired, I am ready to take on this challenge. I am pretty mechanical (cars and plumbing), so we shall see.
Good luck, While in there I recommend changing out the sensor and moving it to the new recommended location as well (see both videos and link in comments for new location). I got tired of it too, which led me to do this. No problems since 2nd video.
I will have to agree it was an excellent idea to clip a copper wire over the heating element and down the drain hole. Although not really hard to figure out, and you did explain it, I find it ironic that the most important part of the whole video, why you didn't show us how exactly you installed that wire. And for Christ sake, don't think you need to spend 14+ minutes to show us how ice melts in order to take a back panel off, that part was a total waste of time, you could have edited some parts out and same us some time. Nevertheless, I do want to say it is only constructed criticism, don't want to sound unappreciative. I did learn something from you and for that I am grateful and Thank you very much.
@@Deschit -Well let me tell you something, you contradicted yourself. Again what is the point of wasting time watching videos if at the end you have to call a repairman? It just defeats the purpose. Nevertheless, now I am even more convinced that I wasted my time watching this and many other You Tube videos in an attempt to resolve my fridge issue. I just figured out that I never needed to remove that panel at all. The first step before you go about trying to solve a problem is to determine the root cause. In other words you gotta to figure out what is causing it. I had the temperature setting too low. All I did was increased the freezer to 5 degree Fahrenheit and the fridge 39 degrees and problem solved once and for all. No more back panel freeze up. So I wasted months and time doing what these you tube videos were telling me to do. Some times you just gotta to figure it out for yourself.
Thanks for posting. I have the same problem. I tried using copper hanger wire, but I don't think my piece was long enough. It took a little longer for the problem to return, but it eventually came back. I am going to try a longer piece to reach further into the drain.
Thank you for the video. Will be trying this tomorrow. Already had to replace my ice maker in my 6 year old Samsung, now this. Thankful I can do these fixes myself.
onemon22, I also recommend replacement of the sensor as long as you are in there. They are cheap and can be bought on Amazon. See 2nd video and good luck with the project.
Thanks for taking the time to post this video! I have to perform the Samsung defrost routine about twice a year. Next time, I'm going to try this copper trick! PS. I'll never buy another Samsung appliance ever again (including a TV given the one I had died 1 month after the warranty ran out!).
Jason M I would also replace the defrost sensor when you are in there the next time. See the second video for same. They are cheap and you can buy them on Amazon. Good luck.
Great how-to video. Thanks. This was exactly my problem. Installed the copper wire in drain so hopefully this was the first and last time I have to do this.
Lindsey Kahl Good luck, I hope it fixes your problem. If it recurs it could be the defrost sensor and or drain lines in the back of the fridge getting clogged up.
I did have some rust / gunk issues also. I ended up sucking and blowing from both ends with my shop vac with a smaller peice of clear tubing taped in shop vac hose, after dumping a bunch of boiling water with no success. Thank you sir
It takes a while to melt all the ice in there if that is what is clogging it up. If it's still not draining after you have repeatedly tried to run hot water down it then you may have a clog in the line somewhere. In that case you're going to have to take off more parts to find out where the clog is in order to remove it.
They make a kit P/N DA82-01415A which comes with 2 drain tubes, a mini transfer heater (instead of copper wire) and some gaskets for around 15-20 bucks on eBay. This kit should stop it from icing up for good. Side note, while it is apart i always replace the defrost thermistor (yellow wire with the round white thermistor on the end) The best thing to do is unplug it and let it sit for at least 24 -36 hours before trying to pull that cover off, it has styrofoam and will break/tear easily.
OK, took the bottom back panel off and clipped the restrictive device and water poured out. So those of you that did this did you need to thaw out the inside also????????
BTW the French door model is a bear to take apart. Mine had a factory mod with aluminum foil shield and an insert part of the way down the tube. Unit must have slowly stopped up for years. It took a hair dryer and lots of hot water and multiple tries to unclog it. Clipping one of the drain tubes did result in water coming out but did not fix the problem. Also those check valves in the tubes are there for a reason. Probably to prevent hot air back flow into the refrigerator. Most likely my clipping those will affect the energy efficiency and the pressurization of the unit.
It is now over one month since I did the fix to the fridge, and I have not had any additional water or ice under the crisper tray so I deem this repair to be an effective method for solving this problem. Best of luck to you if you attempt same. I will check back in in another month or so and update the status.
Thank you sir very much for a great video. I appreciate it. I had same problem. Fixed a few days ago,... so far so good. Bad engineering for sure. Thank you again!
The heater element intermittently turns on and prevents the coils from freezing up. The water drains down to the hole and then I think it probably goes to an evaporater pan under the fridge. Water collected there just evaporates into the air.
Yes, I thought about doing that but was not sure how hot the wire would get. Since I planned to put it in the hole where there was plastic, I went with the better safe than sorry route, although more than likely the wire would not get too hot.
Drain the bottom valves and still had to thaw out the whole pipe assembly. Just clipping the bottom is not going to work if it is froze solid. Very long process to get it unthawed. Also if you clip the tubes it may not be as energy efficient anymore as it will allow air to be sucked backwards into the unit. I decided to clip them anyway as the pain of disassembly and unthawing this hog is beyond measure. The defrost mechanism looked like it was designed properly as the heat transfer piece did stick a little ways down the tube.
IS THERE WATER UNDER YOUR BOTTOM DRAWER? If Yes, your DRAIN HOLE IS CLOGGED. Save Your Money! Fix THE REAL PROBLEM. This video is spot on, along with "Scrap piece of wire saves the day!". . MOST "Samsung fix videos" are trying to fix the wrong thing. Like many people, we wasted time and money on those before finding the right video! . If you prefer a formal part, buy a longer "fridge drain clips" on Amazon for $6-7. . After the install, test to see if your defrost heater is working. Doors must be closed and unit running. Initiate manual defrost. In 1-2 min, the defrost heater will be over 200 F and is working fine. . The wire WILL PREVENT the hole from CLOGGING WITH ICE. All excess water drains away to the evaporation tray under the fridge. VIOLA! A perfect fridge again. . After the "wire fix", if you actually have any icing issues, it is probably the defrost sensor ($8-10).
Thanks for video Paul. I used this on an RF752DSS and unclogged the drain with boiling water and syringe. It can take a bit of time so poke it with a bit of wire as well and it will drain. The water goes out via a drain on bottom left side to a plastic collection tray but you need to take off the bottom back cover to see it. We have had this ice up problem regularly and a repair guy told me its a fault of the Samsung design. He put a larger clip in to the drain hole that Samsung now supply but it didn't fix it so I'm putting in a long copper wire now so hopefully that will do the trick by conveying heat further down the drain. Has your fridge still been OK with the copper wire? I assume Samsung have fixed this flaw in their newer fridges. Anyway thanks again for the help.
Trevor Daly Sorry to report the problem has returned after 8 months. I just uploaded a new video showing my latest attempt to resolve this issue which includes changing out the defrost sensor and adding the new clip as well. Will let all know how it goes.
+Paul D Ok thanks. I saw another guy online put down several copper wires so I've done that. I already had that larger clip part and drain still iced up. So if the wire doesnt work I may have defrost sensor problem too and need to replace. Thanks for the update and new video.
Energy star rating means the defrost cycle is short. If it were longer, using more energy, (who cares if the fridge is freezing up so long as we have the "Energy Star".) If the defrost cycle were longer it would clear the ice as it should. The wire trick would also help but MORE HEAT would fix it for sure. How do we reset the defrost to stay on longer? Just found this about moving the defrost sensor. Samsung, @t
We are having the same problem - looks like I'll try to remedy this myself and thanks for the video. And do you have to empty out the Freezer ? And why if so ?
Thanks for the video. I tried the fix but after 30-45 minutes of flushing the drain with hot water using the turkey baster, it was still backing up. Any advice?
Just did this fix! Thanks! One question, any issue with the heated wire touching the drain line? You know, melting it or burning something? Just concerned about fire hazards or damage.
Machine TV Productions I was concerned about that as well but based on what I saw online it does not appear that the wire gets that hot. Just warm enough to melt the ice and/or keep it melted. At the very least I have not had an issue since the fix.
They don't give a shit. People have been complaining about this problem for YEARS, but as long as Samsung keeps rolling in the dough, they'll blab about "out of warranty" and make you pay out of pocket.
Good troubleshooting, but the design issue and correct repair is the drain tube which gets clogged on the bottom, therefore drain tube gets frozen (even after you defrost, clean the drain and install clip or copper wire-which is temporally repair), therefore water overflows and gets on the bottom fridge. To fix the issue you need to remove back bottom cover, remove the right drain hose next to condenser, once drain tube is removed, separate hose from the slick valve plug which has two small holes which are definitely clogged-pure design and preventing water to drain below the condenser, make the holes bigger and reinstall same. Recommend doing same for the fridge drain hose. You will never have frozen drain and water on the bottom. All the best....
i dont' understand, what is that drain supposed to do? I mean, water goes in there, then what? Are you supposed to have the end of that drain pipe connected to an outside drain?
Was wondering if using a hair dryer would speed up the process of releasing and removing the evaporator cover inside the refrigerator as to access the frozen evap hole problem area. Any thoughts from someone experienced at this?
Mine is not a draining problem but rather an ice buildup. Resulting in the fridge not keeping things cold. I have wrapped copper wire around the heating element line along the bottom but did not put anything on the clip. Its been but 2 weeks and its already icing up again.
Dan Holland ice is building up because the hole is freezing over. Not sure why you would have ice build up but the fridge not cooling. Did you swap out the temp sensor? It might be faulty like mine was. See 2nd video and good luck.
@@pauld9516 i will look into that. It seems as the ice buildup go higher in the back(i can see thru the small holes where the ice begins yo form)the less colder it seems yo be. Cheese molding and milk going bad after 4 or 5 days. Even tho i turned temp down from 38 it still isnt keeping things cold. 2 times i have unplugged overnight and let ice melt and it was ok but im needing to do thus every month now. I will watch 2nd vid tho. Thank you
Dan Holland It is possible you have bigger problems if fridge is not staying cold. Did you make sure drain was completely defrosted? I ran hot water down mine to make sure all ice in line was melted. This also allows you to make sure the bladders at the end of the drain line are not clogged for some reason. If they are, you would need to clean them out too. I would swap out the sensor and also do the hot water down the line to make sure it is not clogged.
@@pauld9516 i dont recall seeing any ice buildup in the tray or around the drain hole. I would assume tho that there has to be since the ice buildup is all the way to the top of the coils behind the panel. Hopefully the defrost sensor will do the trick along with the clip and reinstalling my copper wire
I didnt check the drain in the back or the tubes. I just unplugged and let it set overnight so i would assume if those lines were questionable they would have melted overnight
Same problem with expensive Samsung side by side only allot worse from day one. 3 or 4 inches of solid ice in bottom fridge and the ice where drain is has actually bent some of the metal parts and broken some plastic. And there TVs are junk also, I have gone through 3 Samsung HD TVs that were new and didn't last 3 months. Problem: cheap capacitors and other parts on board, the cheapest parts I have ever seen.
Also, i see that there is no frost or ice buildup on your unit once you pulled off the panel. I woke up this morning and it appeared there was some frost buildup on mine, but not on the drip pan. Does that indicate that I have the same problem as you or is it something different?
ani4aneye811 it is hard to tell what your problem is. If the drain is not clogged up then you have a different problem. If the drain is clogged up I don't see how water would get into your hardwood floor, it would go into the refrigerator
OK, took the bottom back panel off and clipped the restrictive device and water poured out. So those of you that did this did you need to thaw out the inside also????????
Hi, I have the same fridge as you, how far down did you put the wire?? I put one wire down but it still leaks, straightened the old part came in that bent also, using both, still leaking. how is yours doing?? should I buy from amazon the clip they have to replace old one, its 20.00 dollars plus tax and delivery. What do you think??
I only put the wire about an inch or two down the hole. If yours is still freezing up (mine did the first time too) I do recommend obtaining the new, longer clip and also replace the defrost sensor as described in the 2nd video. Part numbers are in the video.
S Harrison I only put the wire about an inch or two down the hole. If yours is still freezing up (mine did the first time too) I do recommend obtaining the new, longer clip and also replace the defrost sensor as described in the 2nd video. Part numbers are in the video. I have not had any issues with crisper drawer moisture since doing that.
I have wood floors in my kitchen and noticed that my floors seemed waterlogged. I saw your video and I removed the back plate but didn't see any ice buildup and the drain clip I have seems to be a newer one bc it seems to extend down through the hole. Any other ideas as to what could be my problem?
ani4aneye811 assuming the water is coming from the refrigerator area you may want to pull it out and see if there was some problem with the evaporator tray underneath. You probably also need to check for other sources of moisture if you cannot find a problem with your refrigerator.
Paul D. On my refrigerator I have the water filter on the bottom and it appears that that's where the leak was coming from...but I cleared everything out, removed the back panel and the re-installed the water filter. Dried everything up and it appears the leak stopped. I just don't know whether to identify if its truly coming from the filter or the back panel.
Question, we have same issue but...where does the drain hole drain to? I looked under fridge and do not see an obvious catch basin/tray like ive had on older style fridge. Must be internal? Capacity? Spill out on floor? Ugh
Phil Sprando I assume the drain line goes to some type of evaporater pan, not the floor. Even when I shot a lot of water down there to make sure it was fully thawed, I saw no sign of an overflow, so it must have some decent capacity.
i pulled out the back of mine and took a look at it (different model 237 but similar i'm guessing) and its large enough to hold roughly 2L of water. the accumulation of water if the drain is clogged can be a lot since there is little evaporation taking place, but it does drip rather slowly
Veronique Carpenter I dont know that it will “kill” the food. Eventually I would expect the ice to build up enough where it will need to be removed. Before fixing mine, the ice would build up until it was difficult to open the crisper drawer and then I would have to manually remove the ice. Got tired of that and decided to fix the cause instead of the symptom. As long as your fridge is cooling properly, your food should be fine.
M Luqman it is possible but I am unfamiliar with the set up of GE fridges. You may need to search for videos related to the specific brand and model of your fridge.
Manveer Singh Thanks for the tip. The one issue I see with that is that the water will flow down to the drain pan to evaporate. However, the salt will not evaporate, so you create a potentially corrosive environment under the fridge which could cause metal components to deteriorate faster.
@@pauld9516 dear we can clean the water pan so no reason of corrosion.since in my 15 years of work experience I have never seen any problems in my way of handling such defrosting problem.In India we deal with all types of refrigerators but here the cooling coil is not easily visible as in your case.so to clean the drain tray under the coil we need to lift it up to have full access.
I did a stupid thing, let's start there. I bought a replacement defrost heater. After taking the panel off, my old heater had the wires/leads to the plug wrapped around the other parts which required cutting one of the wires in order to remove the heater. After mounting the replacement heater I discovered the new plug will not fit into the place it is designed to plug into. Supposed to be direct replacement, but plugs do not match. Therefore I have a brand new part that will not plug into my refrigerator, and the old one is now cut. I am in the Philippines and it took 8 months to get the part here from Sears. Techs here said replacement part was not available. Question is can I cut the plug off the old and solder or wrap onto the replacment one and get it installed, or can I solder the cut wire back together and get the old one back in? Used to take about a month to completely freeze over, now frozen in one day. Any help or suggestions most appreciated. Thanks.
Todd O'Laughlin I guess the soldering might work but that is a little beyond my level of knowledge. I bought my parts on amazon. I don’t know if that is an option for you but you may want to check it out. eBay too. Best of luck on the repair.
I have a GE Profile that looks identical to this Samsung. Same problem. My solution is to cut open a hole the back casing of the fridge and run a new drain line OUTSIDE the fridge and into the pan. My theory is that the drain lines ices up since it is inside the insulation and right next to the freezer, by moving it outside it cannot freeze. I completed this about 2 weeks ago and my drain line is still draining condensate water.
Patrick M Thankfully I did not have to do anything with my drain lines. After changing the sensor I have had no further problems. It is still working well.
James M. Rateau i'm going on five months after the second fix with the defrost sensor and still bone dry so hopefully you can get similar results. Good luck.
Hold the camera still, I'm getting nauseous! I, not usually a scaredy cat, will NOT attempt this fix. I think I will sell the piece of crap. Already had it fixed twice! It started this a few years ago when the fridge was only 3 years old. I wonder if Samsung would compensate me or fix it for free KNOWING it is a widespread problem.
Good troubleshooting, but the design issue and correct repair is the drain tube which gets clogged on the bottom, therefore drain tube gets frozen (even after you defrost, clean the drain and install clip or copper wire-which is temporally repair), therefore water overflows and gets on the bottom fridge. To fix the issue you need to remove back bottom cover, remove the right drain hose next to condenser, once drain tube is removed, separate hose from the slick valve plug which has two small holes which are definitely clogged-pure design and preventing water to drain below the condenser, make the holes bigger and reinstall same. Recommend doing same for the fridge drain hose. You will never have frozen drain and water on the bottom. All the best....
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ocOW2GYxdTE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](/img/tr.png)
I put a copper wire through the drain..hooked it to the heating element and NO MORE problems! I pushed almost 2 feet into the drain hole. I don't know if that much was necessary but it worked! And that's after I paid 2 repairmen to come out who did nothing other than to thaw the ice out with MY blow dryer. Thank you all you guys on TH-cam who told me how to do it! PS I'm a woman...nothing stops me! It's been 6 months and it's working perfectly.
Did it keep working?
@SALTYPECKER for awhile. I'd say it helped for another 2 years until I got the $ together for my new Frigidaire SBS. Just FYI I'm not thrilled with it because there's much less space but that's because I thought it would be ok for 1 person. We get spoiled don't we?
Tonight I used your excellent video to find the iced up drain in our Samsung RB215 refrig purchased in 2013 which was having water flowing into our veggie drawers every other day, which started about a week ago. Of course not having a Turkey Baster we had to run out and buy one at Walmart -- $2. Well spent as we can always use one in the house anyway. All went well in getting the panel off and clearing up the ice jam. But when we re-plugged back in the refrig after being unplugged for about an hour for the repair process and my wife wanting to clean everything out. The darn refrig would not restart when we plugged it back in. After sitting there and scratching my head as to what I could have done wrong, and taking the panel off and re-plugging in the connectors three times, thinking maybe I did those steps wrong. I became an expert at unsnapping that panel and the connectors and resnapping things back in place. :-) During that time the time was flying by and the freezer compartment was getting warmer and warmer. About 3 hours into the project, and me scratching my head as to what possibly I could have done wrong with the disassembly and reassembly multiple times and carefully checking each step of that process, and the refrig would still not restart when plugged back in, my wife found something while googling online about Samsung frigs not wanting to restart when power is off for a period of time. After plugging the frig back in, if it won't restart automatically, one has to press two buttons simultaneously for about 10 seconds to RESET the computer that controls the frig. Then in about 5 minutes the frig started up. I'm not sure exactly which two buttons one has to press simultaneously for the various models. If others know some good links on the computer RESET technique for various Samsung computerized refrigs, please post a follow on link. But in my case it was the freezer button and the refrig button simultaneously for 10 seconds, then release them, and then wait for a few minutes, and it started up. Boy, were we happy to hear that compressor start up. I was almost ready to run out and buy a cheap chest freezer at HomeDepot to save our frozen foods. But all is well now. Thanks again for your very well done video. I hope the twisted copper wire trick works. If not, I'm going to try this clip on gadget: www.appliancepartspros.com/samsung-clip-drain-evap-da61-06796a-ap5579885.html Thanks again.
About your problem of fridge not starting up after powered off for a while, I had the same problem. My is GE but it looks like this Samsung refrigerator in video. Some one said Samsung makes GE refrigerator. Anyway, my "error code" was "88" with the rightmost "8" flashing. My solution, after reading, reading, and more reading, to re-start the refrigerator was to hold down left-most ("ice off") and right-most ("energy saver") buttons of my "Internal Control Model" for 10 seconds. This would not help you, but hopefully it will help others.
I'm a stay-at-home-mom who studied History, but I was able to follow these instructions to *hopefully* fix our Samsung fridge. (Though I used a store-bought replacement part instead of using copper wire.) The instructions were clear and I think I followed them well to fix our problem. Thank you so much for letting me avoid a service call for an easy repair!
I have a GE Profile refrigerator that looks identical to this Samsung. After trying many things, including a longer defroster wire, I finally decided that the drain line was simply icing up, since it goes INSIDE the insulation and next to the freezer. I took a utility knife and cut open the back of the metal casing, directly behind where the drain line is, on the back of the unit. I carefully dug out the insulation with a wood chisel, cut the drain line with a garden shear, and put in a transition piece to get from the 5/8 inch tube to a 3/8 vinyl tube and ran it down the OUTSIDE of the back and into the pan under the fridge. I then put some expanding foam in the "open" hole I made and so far, so good. The water is now draining freely down the tube. It cannot freeze if it's on tyhe outside. Absolutely try the longer clip after you defrost the drain line, but before you get rid of the fridge, maybe try moving the drain line to the outside of the unit.
Jeff Carlson Good luck with your fix. Mine is still doing well.
Thanks for the idea about the heat sync on the heating element. My drain tube was completely frozen for more than a foot. Before I did the boiling water treatment I removed and cleaned the drain tube at the floor. I found debris in one piece, cleaned it and opened the holes a little to allow better water flow. It's been an hour and it's cooling nicely again!
one other thing that I have seen as an alternative is actually wrapping the wire around the heating coil for several loops instead of snaking it through the tab. Intuitively that seems like it would provide for a better heat transfer from the heating element to the copper.
Before tearing apart fridge, try keeping taller items out from under the LED light, as instructed in manual. There is an air sensor located around the light that must not be blocked. After following this instruction, there has been no problem with water or ice build up.
Thank you, after we saw your comment we connected the dots that both times we had a big pot on the top shelf.
After being vexed by the problem for 6+ years on my RF267ABBP, I ran across this video and VOILA.....I heard angels singing! I performed the operation over 9 days ago, and detect no ice/water in the bottom of the refrig. box. Needless to say, this has greatly influenced any purchase decision regarding a future purchase of a Samsung refrigerator, which means a Samsung purchase will NOT be happening. Many thanks for taking the time to publish this video. Maybe a Samsung engineer will notice it to effect future builds......oh wait....that Samsung engineer should've been fired already!
Al Marstek I know the feeling lol. Good luck with your fix!
Exactly as you showed and said. Thank you Paul. The entire water runoff tray was completely iced over and covering the drain hole. On my model RB1955VQ made in April 2004, there was no heating element. So it appears that over time, the engineers tried to fix the issue. Your vid gave me the confidence that I could at least attempt the maintenance. I removed the cover, thawed the ice with a hair dryer until certain the condensate was weeping into the lower runoff tube and tray at base. Then, had some foil tape on hand to resecure things inside around the tray. Just turned it back on, we shall see....
NothingWasEasyTilNow Good luck with your repair
@@pauld9516 ow is yours running now ? I'm having the frozen rear wall issue with fan frozen solid. I will be trying your fix, still have to look up your other video. Nice to see your monitoring your TH-cam video posts
Great video. Thanks for sharing. My Samsung hid the anti freeze part deep down underneath the spirals. Was very fidly too stick on. But i managed it. Saved me i guess $250 and fridge is not leaking anymore :)
It is now been almost 3 months and no ice or moisture under the crisper tray. Good luck with your repair.
thanks for the feedback.
Paul D I tried this over a year ago and I haven't had any water problems. I actually put a longer copper wire. Awesome video. Congrats
Paul, I have question I cannot find an answer for. You did this ONLY for the Refrigerator side correct? I recently had this issue in my freezer where water was pooling and the drain was iced over, I discovered upon removal of the plate. I poured hot water in it until I saw it draining freely. I went to back of the fridge and removed that plate so I could see that drain tube and saw another drain tube as well. Do the fridge compartment and freezer have separate coils and drains? Thanks
iceman8801 I did not do anything in the freezer section of this refrigerator. Sorry I cannot be of more assistance. I have not had any issues with the freezer portion of the fridge that I have.
I see why now .. it's a french door and we have the RS265TDRS side-by-side. I'm just curious if both, the fridge and the freezer, have independent systems (coil, drain, etc) seeing how there is no hole or connection in the divider separating the fridge and freezer compartments. When I noticed water freezing in the bottom of the freezer I also had some water in the bottom of the fridge side, but as I said, I could not figure out where it was coming from UNLESS they share that drain that was clogged.
Turns out this is only part of the solution. There are two vertical plastic drain pipes on the rear bottom of the refrigerator behind the rear cover that drain the water from the freezer and refrigerator into the drain pan. Both these tubes have small vinyl valves (like heart valves) that can clog and prevent the water from draining. I had to trim the valves to allow the water to fully drain.
Excellent troubleshooting
OK, took the bottom back panel off and clipped the restrictive device and water poured out. So those of you that did this did you need to thaw out the inside also????????
Do you have a photo of that rear bottom panel to show?
Thanks for the video. We have GE Profile fridge from 2008. I believe it was manufactured by Samsung as it has the exact same configuration, same parts, and the same issue. We are trying the copper wire repair on it this weekend since I am tired of calling the service technician to deal with it every couple of years. I think all he ever does is de-ice it.
I have the same fridge with the same problem. Did this work for you?
Thanks for the great video and step by step process. The only thing I modified was to use braided copper wire, which was easier to wrap around the heating coil.
I have a 2017 model. Can you believe they are STILL designing theses fridges the same way?
Samsung has made a better drain evaporator clip. So I replafed it with the new one. I also took copper wires and wrapped it around the heater on either side of the new drain clip and extended the wire down and then bent it parallel with the drain pan for a few inches.
I also insulated the wires and the top pipes to prevent frosting. The defrost sensor wire gets frozen. A company told me that this part is a common issue. I think it's because moisture builds up inside tgec wife from the frosted condenser. So I insulated it to prevent that.
Someone also suggested to make sure the fridge is level in the front but to level the front higher than the back so that the pitch of the fridge ensures that the water drains properly.
It's only been a few days, but it's much better. We still get a smidge of water ...drops... So I'm not sure if it's totally fixed...
But let me tell you... I'm never buying Samsung (Sam-dung) again. Piece of junk.. horrible engineering.
Before you take the entire inside out of the refrigerator, take off the bottom plate on the back of the refrigerator. There are two gray drain pipes. They just pull off and there is a little flexible valve inside. Clean those out, or snip off the bottom and put them back. As soon as I took the right side one out, a gush of water came down. We took the whole inside apart for nothing. They wanted to sent a repairman out to diagnose the problem for $95.00. We did it for $0.
Thank you for this! I'm gonna try this!!
This video saved me a visit from repairman. I am single mom and this was a great video. I do have a question: what drains from the grey drain tube on the left side, back of the bottom of fridge? The bottom of the valve was closed shut and I had to pry it open. Thanks for the great video.
where does the gray drain pipe drain to?! The floor?!
Very informative. The extra step with the copper wire was a great suggestion.
Awesome. Cannot wait to tackle this fix ASAP. Been living with this issue for a couple of years on my GE Profile. So far, I just remove the ice below the tray periodically. Getting tired of it. Now that I am semi-retired, I am ready to take on this challenge. I am pretty mechanical (cars and plumbing), so we shall see.
Good luck, While in there I recommend changing out the sensor and moving it to the new recommended location as well (see both videos and link in comments for new location). I got tired of it too, which led me to do this. No problems since 2nd video.
I will have to agree it was an excellent idea to clip a copper wire over the heating element and down the drain hole. Although not really hard to figure out, and you did explain it, I find it ironic that the most important part of the whole video, why you didn't show us how exactly you installed that wire. And for Christ sake, don't think you need to spend 14+ minutes to show us how ice melts in order to take a back panel off, that part was a total waste of time, you could have edited some parts out and same us some time. Nevertheless, I do want to say it is only constructed criticism, don't want to sound unappreciative. I did learn something from you and for that I am grateful and Thank you very much.
@@Deschit -Well let me tell you something, you contradicted yourself. Again what is the point of wasting time watching videos if at the end you have to call a repairman? It just defeats the purpose. Nevertheless, now I am even more convinced that I wasted my time watching this and many other You Tube videos in an attempt to resolve my fridge issue. I just figured out that I never needed to remove that panel at all.
The first step before you go about trying to solve a problem is to determine the root cause. In other words you gotta to figure out what is causing it. I had the temperature setting too low. All I did was increased the freezer to 5 degree Fahrenheit and the fridge 39 degrees and problem solved once and for all. No more back panel freeze up. So I wasted months and time doing what these you tube videos were telling me to do. Some times you just gotta to figure it out for yourself.
Thanks for posting. I have the same problem. I tried using copper hanger wire, but I don't think my piece was long enough. It took a little longer for the problem to return, but it eventually came back. I am going to try a longer piece to reach further into the drain.
Thank you for the video. Will be trying this tomorrow. Already had to replace my ice maker in my 6 year old Samsung, now this. Thankful I can do these fixes myself.
I had the same issues with my Samsung. I think I will have to go back and install that copper wire into the drain hole. Thanks for posting.
onemon22, I also recommend replacement of the sensor as long as you are in there. They are cheap and can be bought on Amazon. See 2nd video and good luck with the project.
Thanks for posting. I was able to take off the cover based on this video and remove the ice. No more noise! My model is RFG238AARS.
Thanks for taking the time to post this video! I have to perform the Samsung defrost routine about twice a year. Next time, I'm going to try this copper trick! PS. I'll never buy another Samsung appliance ever again (including a TV given the one I had died 1 month after the warranty ran out!).
Jason M I would also replace the defrost sensor when you are in there the next time. See the second video for same. They are cheap and you can buy them on Amazon. Good luck.
Great how-to video. Thanks. This was exactly my problem. Installed the copper wire in drain so hopefully this was the first and last time I have to do this.
Lindsey Kahl Good luck, I hope it fixes your problem. If it recurs it could be the defrost sensor and or drain lines in the back of the fridge getting clogged up.
I did have some rust / gunk issues also. I ended up sucking and blowing from both ends with my shop vac with a smaller peice of clear tubing taped in shop vac hose, after dumping a bunch of boiling water with no success. Thank you sir
Dan Pence Good luck with the fix. After doing that and changing out the sensor I have not had any other issues.
It takes a while to melt all the ice in there if that is what is clogging it up. If it's still not draining after you have repeatedly tried to run hot water down it then you may have a clog in the line somewhere. In that case you're going to have to take off more parts to find out where the clog is in order to remove it.
They make a kit P/N DA82-01415A which comes with 2 drain tubes, a mini transfer heater (instead of copper wire) and some gaskets for around 15-20 bucks on eBay. This kit should stop it from icing up for good. Side note, while it is apart i always replace the defrost thermistor (yellow wire with the round white thermistor on the end) The best thing to do is unplug it and let it sit for at least 24 -36 hours before trying to pull that cover off, it has styrofoam and will break/tear easily.
OK, took the bottom back panel off and clipped the restrictive device and water poured out. So those of you that did this did you need to thaw out the inside also????????
BTW the French door model is a bear to take apart. Mine had a factory mod with aluminum foil shield and an insert part of the way down the tube. Unit must have slowly stopped up for years. It took a hair dryer and lots of hot water and multiple tries to unclog it. Clipping one of the drain tubes did result in water coming out but did not fix the problem. Also those check valves in the tubes are there for a reason. Probably to prevent hot air back flow into the refrigerator. Most likely my clipping those will affect the energy efficiency and the pressurization of the unit.
Good deal. Whatever it takes! Wire solution still working like a boss.
It is now over one month since I did the fix to the fridge, and I have not had any additional water or ice under the crisper tray so I deem this repair to be an effective method for solving this problem. Best of luck to you if you attempt same. I will check back in in another month or so and update the status.
Thank you sir very much for a great video. I appreciate it. I had same problem. Fixed a few days ago,... so far so good. Bad engineering for sure. Thank you again!
I love my frozen Samsung refrigerator, my unbalanced Samsung washer, and my intermittently working Samsung Microwave.
The heater element intermittently turns on and prevents the coils from freezing up. The water drains down to the hole and then I think it probably goes to an evaporater pan under the fridge. Water collected there just evaporates into the air.
Yes, I thought about doing that but was not sure how hot the wire would get. Since I planned to put it in the hole where there was plastic, I went with the better safe than sorry route, although more than likely the wire would not get too hot.
Yes. I doubled mine up and went down an inch or two into the drain hole. Good luck. Mine is still dry as a bone.
wire is better then buy clip from amazone? i have same problem . thinking whats better wire or new clip
@@sigyz I used both. If I had to choose would probably go with the part.
Thank you. Because of your video I got it fixed!
Drain the bottom valves and still had to thaw out the whole pipe assembly. Just clipping the bottom is not going to work if it is froze solid. Very long process to get it unthawed. Also if you clip the tubes it may not be as energy efficient anymore as it will allow air to be sucked backwards into the unit. I decided to clip them anyway as the pain of disassembly and unthawing this hog is beyond measure. The defrost mechanism looked like it was designed properly as the heat transfer piece did stick a little ways down the tube.
Watched videos for sansung fix , had similar ice buildup and installed copper wire ,hope that cures problem don’t want to go thru that again !🥶
Anthony Rubino I hope it works for you too. Mine is still doing well
IS THERE WATER UNDER YOUR BOTTOM DRAWER? If Yes, your DRAIN HOLE IS CLOGGED. Save Your Money! Fix THE REAL PROBLEM.
This video is spot on, along with "Scrap piece of wire saves the day!".
.
MOST "Samsung fix videos" are trying to fix the wrong thing. Like many people, we wasted time and money on those before finding the right video!
.
If you prefer a formal part, buy a longer "fridge drain clips" on Amazon for $6-7.
.
After the install, test to see if your defrost heater is working. Doors must be closed and unit running. Initiate manual defrost. In 1-2 min, the defrost heater will be over 200 F and is working fine.
.
The wire WILL PREVENT the hole from CLOGGING WITH ICE. All excess water drains away to the evaporation tray under the fridge. VIOLA! A perfect fridge again.
.
After the "wire fix", if you actually have any icing issues, it is probably the defrost sensor ($8-10).
It was very detail and informative video. I will give it a try tonight...
The new clip that resolves the problem has a wider surface contact on the heating element to conduct more heat.
Thanks for video Paul. I used this on an RF752DSS and unclogged the drain with boiling water and syringe. It can take a bit of time so poke it with a bit of wire as well and it will drain. The water goes out via a drain on bottom left side to a plastic collection tray but you need to take off the bottom back cover to see it. We have had this ice up problem regularly and a repair guy told me its a fault of the Samsung design. He put a larger clip in to the drain hole that Samsung now supply but it didn't fix it so I'm putting in a long copper wire now so hopefully that will do the trick by conveying heat further down the drain. Has your fridge still been OK with the copper wire? I assume Samsung have fixed this flaw in their newer fridges. Anyway thanks again for the help.
Trevor Daly Sorry to report the problem has returned after 8 months. I just uploaded a new video showing my latest attempt to resolve this issue which includes changing out the defrost sensor and adding the new clip as well. Will let all know how it goes.
+Paul D Ok thanks. I saw another guy online put down several copper wires so I've done that. I already had that larger clip part and drain still iced up. So if the wire doesnt work I may have defrost sensor problem too and need to replace. Thanks for the update and new video.
Great explanation . You really saved me money and time, thank you
Thank you Paul, your Video was the most helpful. We have model rf323tedbsr/aa and it's really the same
take the copper wire and wrap it around the tip of a solder iron shove the other end of the wire in the hole to melt the ice saves a a lot of time
Energy star rating means the defrost cycle is short. If it were longer, using more energy,
(who cares if the fridge is freezing up so long as we have the "Energy Star".)
If the defrost cycle were longer it would clear the ice as it should. The wire trick would also help but MORE HEAT
would fix it for sure. How do we reset the defrost to stay on longer?
Just found this about moving the defrost sensor.
Samsung, @t
Working on this repair on my fridge, model rf18hfenbsr
Samsung made some junk refrigerators. I have only owned this fridge for 3 years.
I just added the copper wire. The heater element still worked.
It took me about one hour. If you want to speed it up you can blow warm air with a hair dryer into the top vents to melt the ice faster.
Thank you same issue here. Thank you!!!
Double check and make sure it's level, I've notice it's temperamental if it's not level!
We are having the same problem - looks like I'll try to remedy this myself and thanks for the video. And do you have to empty out the Freezer ? And why if so ?
Thanks for the video. I tried the fix but after 30-45 minutes of flushing the drain with hot water using the turkey baster, it was still backing up. Any advice?
Just did this fix! Thanks! One question, any issue with the heated wire touching the drain line? You know, melting it or burning something? Just concerned about fire hazards or damage.
Machine TV Productions I was concerned about that as well but based on what I saw online it does not appear that the wire gets that hot. Just warm enough to melt the ice and/or keep it melted. At the very least I have not had an issue since the fix.
Paul D, good to know! Thanks a million for the fix and reply!
This great! We were having a problem with the drain. This explained why and what t do. Thank you.
It still works great!
video helped a lot. than you!
great video thanks for posting!
thanks , samsung fridge has so many problems built cheap
I will boycott ALL Samsung products for the foreseeable future after my experiences with these garbage refrigerators.
Please post this comment on Facebook @Samsung Support
Tiffany: Thanks, didn't know such an option existed.
They don't give a shit. People have been complaining about this problem for YEARS, but as long as Samsung keeps rolling in the dough, they'll blab about "out of warranty" and make you pay out of pocket.
Then we should all boycott them, it's the one tool we always have and they WILL care if enough folks avoid them.
Good troubleshooting, but the design issue and correct repair is the drain tube which gets clogged on the bottom, therefore drain tube gets frozen (even after you defrost, clean the drain and install clip or copper wire-which is temporally repair), therefore water overflows and gets on the bottom fridge. To fix the issue you need to remove back bottom cover, remove the right drain hose next to condenser, once drain tube is removed, separate hose from the slick valve plug which has two small holes which are definitely clogged-pure design and preventing water to drain below the condenser, make the holes bigger and reinstall same. Recommend doing same for the fridge drain hose. You will never have frozen drain and water on the bottom. All the best....
Thank you very much for your video. I am going to try it.
Jeffrey Litch Good luck with your repair. As long as you’re in there you might as well change out the sensor too. See other video.
i dont' understand, what is that drain supposed to do? I mean, water goes in there, then what? Are you supposed to have the end of that drain pipe connected to an outside drain?
The drain goes to a pan down in the bottom of the fridge, and the water evaporates
Was wondering if using a hair dryer would speed up the process of releasing and removing the evaporator cover inside the refrigerator as to access the frozen evap hole problem area. Any thoughts from someone experienced at this?
Yes, that is what I did to speed it up. You dont want to rip it off because you will damage the insulation.
How long is it taking for everyone to thaw everything to be able to do the repair?
Mine is not a draining problem but rather an ice buildup. Resulting in the fridge not keeping things cold. I have wrapped copper wire around the heating element line along the bottom but did not put anything on the clip. Its been but 2 weeks and its already icing up again.
Dan Holland ice is building up because the hole is freezing over. Not sure why you would have ice build up but the fridge not cooling. Did you swap out the temp sensor? It might be faulty like mine was. See 2nd video and good luck.
@@pauld9516 i will look into that. It seems as the ice buildup go higher in the back(i can see thru the small holes where the ice begins yo form)the less colder it seems yo be. Cheese molding and milk going bad after 4 or 5 days. Even tho i turned temp down from 38 it still isnt keeping things cold. 2 times i have unplugged overnight and let ice melt and it was ok but im needing to do thus every month now. I will watch 2nd vid tho. Thank you
Dan Holland It is possible you have bigger problems if fridge is not staying cold. Did you make sure drain was completely defrosted? I ran hot water down mine to make sure all ice in line was melted. This also allows you to make sure the bladders at the end of the drain line are not clogged for some reason. If they are, you would need to clean them out too. I would swap out the sensor and also do the hot water down the line to make sure it is not clogged.
@@pauld9516 i dont recall seeing any ice buildup in the tray or around the drain hole. I would assume tho that there has to be since the ice buildup is all the way to the top of the coils behind the panel. Hopefully the defrost sensor will do the trick along with the clip and reinstalling my copper wire
I didnt check the drain in the back or the tubes. I just unplugged and let it set overnight so i would assume if those lines were questionable they would have melted overnight
Thank you this helped that was awesom
Same problem with expensive Samsung side by side only allot worse from day one. 3 or 4 inches of solid ice in bottom fridge and the ice where drain is has actually bent some of the metal parts and broken some plastic. And there TVs are junk also, I have gone through 3 Samsung HD TVs that were new and didn't last 3 months. Problem: cheap capacitors and other parts on board, the cheapest parts I have ever seen.
Thank you very much, I got it.
bold jugder Good luck
hello friend, hows the fridge working now, still going good ?
Brilliant!
Also, i see that there is no frost or ice buildup on your unit once you pulled off the panel. I woke up this morning and it appeared there was some frost buildup on mine, but not on the drip pan. Does that indicate that I have the same problem as you or is it something different?
ani4aneye811 it is hard to tell what your problem is. If the drain is not clogged up then you have a different problem. If the drain is clogged up I don't see how water would get into your hardwood floor, it would go into the refrigerator
OK, took the bottom back panel off and clipped the restrictive device and water poured out. So those of you that did this did you need to thaw out the inside also????????
Hi, I have the same fridge as you, how far down did you put the wire?? I put one wire down but it still leaks, straightened the old part came in that bent also, using both, still leaking. how is yours doing?? should I buy from amazon the clip they have to replace old one, its 20.00 dollars plus tax and delivery. What do you think??
I only put the wire about an inch or two down the hole. If yours is still freezing up (mine did the first time too) I do recommend obtaining the new, longer clip and also replace the defrost sensor as described in the 2nd video. Part numbers are in the video.
S Harrison I only put the wire about an inch or two down the hole. If yours is still freezing up (mine did the first time too) I do recommend obtaining the new, longer clip and also replace the defrost sensor as described in the 2nd video. Part numbers are in the video. I have not had any issues with crisper drawer moisture since doing that.
I have wood floors in my kitchen and noticed that my floors seemed waterlogged. I saw your video and I removed the back plate but didn't see any ice buildup and the drain clip I have seems to be a newer one bc it seems to extend down through the hole. Any other ideas as to what could be my problem?
ani4aneye811 assuming the water is coming from the refrigerator area you may want to pull it out and see if there was some problem with the evaporator tray underneath. You probably also need to check for other sources of moisture if you cannot find a problem with your refrigerator.
Paul D. On my refrigerator I have the water filter on the bottom and it appears that that's where the leak was coming from...but I cleared everything out, removed the back panel and the re-installed the water filter. Dried everything up and it appears the leak stopped. I just don't know whether to identify if its truly coming from the filter or the back panel.
Question, we have same issue but...where does the drain hole drain to? I looked under fridge and do not see an obvious catch basin/tray like ive had on older style fridge. Must be internal? Capacity? Spill out on floor? Ugh
Phil Sprando I assume the drain line goes to some type of evaporater pan, not the floor. Even when I shot a lot of water down there to make sure it was fully thawed, I saw no sign of an overflow, so it must have some decent capacity.
i pulled out the back of mine and took a look at it (different model 237 but similar i'm guessing) and its large enough to hold roughly 2L of water. the accumulation of water if the drain is clogged can be a lot since there is little evaporation taking place, but it does drip rather slowly
If we don't fix it since this is an "extra' fridge in garage, will this kill the food?
Veronique Carpenter I dont know that it will “kill” the food. Eventually I would expect the ice to build up enough where it will need to be removed. Before fixing mine, the ice would build up until it was difficult to open the crisper drawer and then I would have to manually remove the ice. Got tired of that and decided to fix the cause instead of the symptom. As long as your fridge is cooling properly, your food should be fine.
I have the same issue with my GE fridge, also there is water leaking under my refrigerator. Due you think it could be caused my same issue?
M Luqman it is possible but I am unfamiliar with the set up of GE fridges. You may need to search for videos related to the specific brand and model of your fridge.
How long of a copper wire did you use?
Juan Vasquez About 2 inches or so. Enough to go into the drain hole
Hello sir you can use a salt water solution do defrost the frozen part.It will speed up the process hence you can save time.
Manveer Singh Thanks for the tip. The one issue I see with that is that the water will flow down to the drain pan to evaporate. However, the salt will not evaporate, so you create a potentially corrosive environment under the fridge which could cause metal components to deteriorate faster.
@@pauld9516 dear we can clean the water pan so no reason of corrosion.since in my 15 years of work experience I have never seen any problems in my way of handling such defrosting problem.In India we deal with all types of refrigerators but here the cooling coil is not easily visible as in your case.so to clean the drain tray under the coil we need to lift it up to have full access.
I did a stupid thing, let's start there. I bought a replacement defrost heater. After taking the panel off, my old heater had the wires/leads to the plug wrapped around the other parts which required cutting one of the wires in order to remove the heater. After mounting the replacement heater I discovered the new plug will not fit into the place it is designed to plug into. Supposed to be direct replacement, but plugs do not match. Therefore I have a brand new part that will not plug into my refrigerator, and the old one is now cut. I am in the Philippines and it took 8 months to get the part here from Sears. Techs here said replacement part was not available. Question is can I cut the plug off the old and solder or wrap onto the replacment one and get it installed, or can I solder the cut wire back together and get the old one back in? Used to take about a month to completely freeze over, now frozen in one day. Any help or suggestions most appreciated. Thanks.
Todd O'Laughlin I guess the soldering might work but that is a little beyond my level of knowledge. I bought my parts on amazon. I don’t know if that is an option for you but you may want to check it out. eBay too. Best of luck on the repair.
Update: Cut the plug off of the old heater and soldered it onto the new heater. Refrigerator has been working properly for the first time in years.
Todd O'Laughlin Awesome. Glad you got it working
This seems to be an enduring problem with Samsung.. one the REFUSE to acknowledge. I won'y buy another one!
Did it twice and came back in 5months
big Mac mine came back and I changed the sensor the second time. Have you tried that yet?
Where does that drain goes to?
Evaporator pan underneath fridge
what a pain in the ass samsung fridges are. i'm going through this now on a different model
Agree. My experience with the warranty repair was disgraceful. Nice man but not at all knowledgeable. I will never buy Samsung/GE fridge again.
What other model? So I won't buy it. Thank you
No you don't have to empty the freezer. Just the fridge.
can i find cannister and cut them into shapes
Soupremo1 I am unsure what you are asking. Please elaborate.
@@pauld9516 i mean if i can made the part using aluminium can will it work?
soupremo1 it should. I believe the part I bought from amazon was aluminum.
@@pauld9516 thanks already fixed mine
GE, Skip them when you buy your next appliance.
I have a GE Profile that looks identical to this Samsung. Same problem. My solution is to cut open a hole the back casing of the fridge and run a new drain line OUTSIDE the fridge and into the pan. My theory is that the drain lines ices up since it is inside the insulation and right next to the freezer, by moving it outside it cannot freeze. I completed this about 2 weeks ago and my drain line is still draining condensate water.
Any more updates on this repair working or did you need to do the second part as well (drain tube in the back)? At this point I hate Samsung!!!
Patrick M Thankfully I did not have to do anything with my drain lines. After changing the sensor I have had no further problems. It is still working well.
Shit the doors and open and it will turn the lights back on
I'm going through this BS as I'm watching this. Seems to be ok now but we'll see
James M. Rateau i'm going on five months after the second fix with the defrost sensor and still bone dry so hopefully you can get similar results. Good luck.
Here is the link to the new video: th-cam.com/video/ZiK9JS-2o-Q/w-d-xo.html
Hold the camera still, I'm getting nauseous! I, not usually a scaredy cat, will NOT attempt this fix. I think I will sell the piece of crap. Already had it fixed twice! It started this a few years ago when the fridge was only 3 years old. I wonder if Samsung would compensate me or fix it for free KNOWING it is a widespread problem.
Hairdryer
but it will freeze again this is suppose to stop it from doing it again
Good troubleshooting, but the design issue and correct repair is the drain tube which gets clogged on the bottom, therefore drain tube gets frozen (even after you defrost, clean the drain and install clip or copper wire-which is temporally repair), therefore water overflows and gets on the bottom fridge. To fix the issue you need to remove back bottom cover, remove the right drain hose next to condenser, once drain tube is removed, separate hose from the slick valve plug which has two small holes which are definitely clogged-pure design and preventing water to drain below the condenser, make the holes bigger and reinstall same. Recommend doing same for the fridge drain hose. You will never have frozen drain and water on the bottom. All the best....
So any pics of removing the back cover?
do you happen to have a video of that back portion?
Samsung and LG suck...better go for american,european or japanese manufacturers