I love watching these! as a fragrance collector its fascinating to see them broken down into its individual ingredients and have you describe what those singular elements are like! The videos also have an amazing calming and soothing nature to them, wonderful stuff!
Great info Ryan. I made this today with some alterations by necessity. I added 33% Timbersilk, 66% IES because I did not have cedrol. Replaced linalyl acetate with Bulgarian lavender. No magnolan so subbed geraniol and lilyflore. No ambroxan super so used ambermax and ambrofix to make up for lacking cedrol. Used sandalwood accord from creating perfume for cedrol. Went heavy on pink pepper to make up for not having elemi. Added lemongrass to fake elemi. Rose givco in place of de Mais. Heavy on Fraterworks orange. Used raspberry ketone, Fraterworks Gardenia J Ellis, and Paradisamide at 10% to mimic rhubofix and styrallal acetate. Used patchouli co2 but increased Fraterworks styrax. This is absolutely amazing. Soooo light and perfect. I can’t wait for a week to go by. Thank you Ryan. I am going to make another right now.
Those are some serious substitutions! I'm happy to hear that the batch you made ended up well. Sometimes when I substitute, I never know if the output is going to be good or not. :-/ It's always worth experimenting though.
Thank you Rayan, this one is really nice, maybe a little to rosy or "Mineraly" after one week, let snif in one month ! But this formula definitly catch the essence of what the real Terre d'Hermes project when you enter un a room. Really great !
Been owning a bourbon gernanium plant, I can tell you it only produce few flower that smell exactly the same as the whole plant that is really smelly by itself
finally got my bottle 3 days ago after testing it on a blotter a couple weeks back. Day 1 I could mostly only smell iso e super, but with gorgeous citrus notes, it definitely smelled like it would be 50/50; Nose blind after 3 hours, didnt smell it again until a few hours later when I went outside and got some airflow. day 2 I could smell pretty much only iso e super and not much else, noseblind for the most part, catching whiffs of iso e throughout the day. Now today, I spent most of my time completely anosmic, but each time I catch a whiff, its magical. I cant smell the vetiver at all which had some people in a discord group asking if my nose is busted..... I hope I find smelling it easier with time. Have the parfum en route in hopes I can smell it through the day (only tried that one on strip too) Not a lot of fragrances make me this nose blind, I can usually smell stuff the community calls weak all day long.
Tried this out didn't have the cedrol so substituted it with cedramber ...it took away the sharpness of the formula but close enough...thank you keep up the great work 👍👍👍🌟🌟🌟
Nice video! I am very interested on how you properly store your mats, you have many materials just at room temperature so I guess they are just the dilutions? I and maybe some other beginners would be grateful for a video on that topic! :) Keep it up!
Yes I did. I made it back in September of 2023. It opens very much like Terre d'Hermes. However, as it has aged, it has changed a bit. The formula in this video is amazing.
Td'H is a bit of a favorite of mine. People often refer to the "Flint" note in it. Looking at this formula, What material or materials would provide that??
I generally appreciate the fact that it was answered by Sir Ryan, but I don't think the question was really evaluated. To the people who've walked around beaches, collecting rocks they liked as a kid, and finally finding that matte gray rock that your parents told you would make sparks and spending the rest of the afternoon beating it against other rocks and metal, flint is a nostalgic scent. The flint note is metallic, slightly sulphuric gunpowdery, minerally/stone like. It's been discussed many times, and people seem to either hate or love it in this composition (see Basenotes) I think it's the peppercorns with the dry, cedar notes in this. It can also be the Dodecanal/C12, some aldehydes can be sweat-like, metallic and waxy. Likely just the combination here that does it, but the ingredients aren't /that/ expensive, you could get what you think the source is and go from there.
I am a total newb, thinking of maybe getting in perfumery - so one question. Why did you say you don't want a 20% concentration but would like to dile it down to 15% (in the beginning)? Wouldn't 20% mean the fragrance smells the same but more intense, with higher projection and with better longevity - which for a fresh/summery fragrance like TdH would be awesome? Or do these formulas only work for a certain concentration and if it's too high the whole composition smells off?
When I’m working with an EDT fragrance (Terre d’Hermes was and remains an EDT), my default is 15% concentrate. Higher projection, longevity… maybe. But what’s the consequence? Take it to a more extreme level: what would happen if we did a 50% concentrate? It might last a long time, but we’d get choked out, overpowered by the fragrance. To your point, formulas tend to work with a specific concentration. This is often why an EDP flanker of an EDT is reformulated to work at the higher concentration.
Not long ago it was hard to find channels like this the only close was Peter. Maybe someday something from cdg?? I know those white bottles Keep the great content coming,cheers
Hey Ryan, Love your videos. You've made me want to begin the journey into fragrance making. I'll be a while, looking for funds...LOL. While I'm waiting are there any sources/books you recommend reading to get a better base knowledge of the elements used in creation? Thanks, Toby
Thanks, Toby. A tried and true book for new perfumers is The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Elena. Basenotes has a great DIY forum that’s fun to peruse. Sam Magee also has a great discord server called “Fragrance Foundry”.
perfume and flavour chemicals by steffen arctander is the ultimate compendium of aromachemicals. an introduction to perfumery by tony curtis and david g. williams has basics on some of the most used substances
For a few reasons. But the main one is that it’s more cost effective when experimenting. Some things I have dilutions at 1%. And some (like Methyl Octine Carbonate) I have diluted as low as 0.1%. It just depends on how easy the material is to work with, and what the typical usage amount for that material is for a 5g - 10g sample.
So those are essential oils? I know vetiver, lavender, patchouli, but the other ingredients don't seem to be organic or just a synthetic fragrance? Like most perfumes are synthetic. Just wondering
This formula is a mix. There are some natural materials (e.g. cedarwood, vetiver), some individual molecules that are found in naturals (e.g. cedrol, citronellol), and some molecules that are not found in nature (e.g. florol, magnolan). Most perfumes are majority synthetic. Some are entirely synthetic. A minuscule number of perfumes (mostly done by independent artisan perfumers) are created 100% from essential oils and extracts.
What does 2000 Iso E Super or Hedione 400 stands for, is it mg or what, am sorry am new in this, got inspired by how you do things and how you explaine
All formulas are expressed in terms of “parts by weight”. That means that the numbers can be grams, pounds, kilos, tons, etc., so long as it is uniform across ingredients.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.922 | 10 พ.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zmV5HRIxIBI/mqdefault.jpg)
I love watching these! as a fragrance collector its fascinating to see them broken down into its individual ingredients and have you describe what those singular elements are like! The videos also have an amazing calming and soothing nature to them, wonderful stuff!
I do love how you take your time line by line AND showing your formula too. Thank you, very generous.
Great info Ryan. I made this today with some alterations by necessity. I added 33% Timbersilk, 66% IES because I did not have cedrol. Replaced linalyl acetate with Bulgarian lavender. No magnolan so subbed geraniol and lilyflore. No ambroxan super so used ambermax and ambrofix to make up for lacking cedrol. Used sandalwood accord from creating perfume for cedrol. Went heavy on pink pepper to make up for not having elemi. Added lemongrass to fake elemi. Rose givco in place of de Mais. Heavy on Fraterworks orange. Used raspberry ketone, Fraterworks Gardenia J Ellis, and Paradisamide at 10% to mimic rhubofix and styrallal acetate. Used patchouli co2 but increased Fraterworks styrax. This is absolutely amazing. Soooo light and perfect. I can’t wait for a week to go by. Thank you Ryan. I am going to make another right now.
Those are some serious substitutions! I'm happy to hear that the batch you made ended up well. Sometimes when I substitute, I never know if the output is going to be good or not. :-/ It's always worth experimenting though.
Very creative substitutions! I don't think it smells like Terre, but hopefully you've created a Terre-like perfume with a unique touch to it :)
I want to buy some of this from you and try it
Thank you Rayan, this one is really nice, maybe a little to rosy or "Mineraly" after one week, let snif in one month ! But this formula definitly catch the essence of what the real Terre d'Hermes project when you enter un a room. Really great !
These are fascinating to watch and very well put together!
Dear Ryan hope u put all ur social link in description and mention viewers to subscribe and follow ur channel.coz u disservice more ❤
Been owning a bourbon gernanium plant, I can tell you it only produce few flower that smell exactly the same as the whole plant that is really smelly by itself
Amazing, I'd love to see you make a good La Nuit de L'Homme like the 2009 version... my favorite frag of all time.
finally got my bottle 3 days ago after testing it on a blotter a couple weeks back.
Day 1 I could mostly only smell iso e super, but with gorgeous citrus notes, it definitely smelled like it would be 50/50; Nose blind after 3 hours, didnt smell it again until a few hours later when I went outside and got some airflow. day 2 I could smell pretty much only iso e super and not much else, noseblind for the most part, catching whiffs of iso e throughout the day. Now today, I spent most of my time completely anosmic, but each time I catch a whiff, its magical. I cant smell the vetiver at all which had some people in a discord group asking if my nose is busted..... I hope I find smelling it easier with time. Have the parfum en route in hopes I can smell it through the day (only tried that one on strip too)
Not a lot of fragrances make me this nose blind, I can usually smell stuff the community calls weak all day long.
Tried this out didn't have the cedrol so substituted it with cedramber ...it took away the sharpness of the formula but close enough...thank you keep up the great work 👍👍👍🌟🌟🌟
Interesting! I wonder how the Cedramber smells in the formula!
Nice video! I am very interested on how you properly store your mats, you have many materials just at room temperature so I guess they are just the dilutions? I and maybe some other beginners would be grateful for a video on that topic! :) Keep it up!
I will add this to the video idea list :-)
Definitely one of my favorite fragrances. Interesting that there are no ionones in the formula, which go so well with vetiver connotations.
The bob ross of perfumery
Love this! Thank you so much. One of my favourite perfumes.
What material do you make your dilutions with? DPG or alcohol?
Most of the time, alcohol.
Loved the video, thank you, Ryan! Did you try the Synarome formula?
Yes I did. I made it back in September of 2023. It opens very much like Terre d'Hermes. However, as it has aged, it has changed a bit. The formula in this video is amazing.
Td'H is a bit of a favorite of mine. People often refer to the "Flint" note in it. Looking at this formula, What material or materials would provide that??
I’ve never smelled flint, so I can’t say :-)
I generally appreciate the fact that it was answered by Sir Ryan, but I don't think the question was really evaluated. To the people who've walked around beaches, collecting rocks they liked as a kid, and finally finding that matte gray rock that your parents told you would make sparks and spending the rest of the afternoon beating it against other rocks and metal, flint is a nostalgic scent.
The flint note is metallic, slightly sulphuric gunpowdery, minerally/stone like. It's been discussed many times, and people seem to either hate or love it in this composition (see Basenotes)
I think it's the peppercorns with the dry, cedar notes in this. It can also be the Dodecanal/C12, some aldehydes can be sweat-like, metallic and waxy. Likely just the combination here that does it, but the ingredients aren't /that/ expensive, you could get what you think the source is and go from there.
I am a total newb, thinking of maybe getting in perfumery - so one question. Why did you say you don't want a 20% concentration but would like to dile it down to 15% (in the beginning)? Wouldn't 20% mean the fragrance smells the same but more intense, with higher projection and with better longevity - which for a fresh/summery fragrance like TdH would be awesome? Or do these formulas only work for a certain concentration and if it's too high the whole composition smells off?
When I’m working with an EDT fragrance (Terre d’Hermes was and remains an EDT), my default is 15% concentrate. Higher projection, longevity… maybe. But what’s the consequence? Take it to a more extreme level: what would happen if we did a 50% concentrate? It might last a long time, but we’d get choked out, overpowered by the fragrance.
To your point, formulas tend to work with a specific concentration. This is often why an EDP flanker of an EDT is reformulated to work at the higher concentration.
Not long ago it was hard to find channels like this the only close was Peter. Maybe someday something from cdg?? I know those white bottles
Keep the great content coming,cheers
I will keep an eye out for a formula :-)
@@RyanParfums that would be amazing Kyoto incense series cough cough hahaha anything from cdg would be awesome. Again amazing job with your channel.
Hey Ryan, Love your videos. You've made me want to begin the journey into fragrance making. I'll be a while, looking for funds...LOL. While I'm waiting are there any sources/books you recommend reading to get a better base knowledge of the elements used in creation? Thanks, Toby
Thanks, Toby. A tried and true book for new perfumers is The Alchemy of Scent by Jean-Claude Elena. Basenotes has a great DIY forum that’s fun to peruse. Sam Magee also has a great discord server called “Fragrance Foundry”.
perfume and flavour chemicals by steffen arctander is the ultimate compendium of aromachemicals. an introduction to perfumery by tony curtis and david g. williams has basics on some of the most used substances
Mostly iso e super again
why do you use 10% dilutions of all your materials?
For a few reasons. But the main one is that it’s more cost effective when experimenting. Some things I have dilutions at 1%. And some (like Methyl Octine Carbonate) I have diluted as low as 0.1%. It just depends on how easy the material is to work with, and what the typical usage amount for that material is for a 5g - 10g sample.
So those are essential oils? I know vetiver, lavender, patchouli, but the other ingredients don't seem to be organic or just a synthetic fragrance? Like most perfumes are synthetic. Just wondering
This formula is a mix. There are some natural materials (e.g. cedarwood, vetiver), some individual molecules that are found in naturals (e.g. cedrol, citronellol), and some molecules that are not found in nature (e.g. florol, magnolan).
Most perfumes are majority synthetic. Some are entirely synthetic. A minuscule number of perfumes (mostly done by independent artisan perfumers) are created 100% from essential oils and extracts.
Aldehyde c12 isnt in your formula that wrote in your caption but you add...
Good catch!
Pop quiz: what’s another name for Dodecenal?
😀
Right, sorry 🫣
What does 2000 Iso E Super or Hedione 400 stands for, is it mg or what, am sorry am new in this, got inspired by how you do things and how you explaine
All formulas are expressed in terms of “parts by weight”. That means that the numbers can be grams, pounds, kilos, tons, etc., so long as it is uniform across ingredients.
@@RyanParfums thank you so much, respect 💪🤝