Magic Jez. I just wish this series of videos was around before I sat my assessment last year. Would've made the assessment a lot easier. Managed to pass the assessment though. 😀 Still learning lots with these sessions. Keep them up. Love the more advanced ones 👍👍
Absolutely love your Vlog! I appreciate it very much, being able to return to sling mountain to refresh anything or consider different techniques. I had a friend struggle with a new cam recently, following me up, and I told him not to worry about it. Told him I’d get it on our prerigged abseil down. The route wasn’t quite in line with the bolts (bolts were about five meter traverse on a healthy ledge) and I probably should’ve fixed a constructed anchor or re-direct on the ledge over the route and abseiled straight down. However, I didn’t want to complicate it for my friend. I was able to get the gear by walking my way across the face, but never like this again as when I looked up I considered the friction against my rope over the ledge meandering laterally. Not the safest strategy I’d say and tough on the new rope.... My question: when you set up your abseil and you get down to rescue the jammed piece. What do you do then? Do you typically ascend the rope back to your companion or client? Or would you consider another strategy (I was considering a prerigged belay from above, but then (if it was a beginner or a new partner) I would have to trust them to lower safely in the first place and I think that’s what I’d want to avoid by the strategy of abseiling and ascending....)?
Glad you like it! In this Rock Climbing Instructor scenario I'd just walk back around to the top. If that wasn't possible I'd probably self belay myself back up, unless they were capable of belaying me - but these options are outside of this specific qualification talked about in this video.
Another good one - I was wondering if you fell at 7:00 you'd take a big fall, especially if you were going further away from the protection. However, I was taught if you use a carabiner to connect yourself to the centre of the W, you're still protected and can turn it into a clove hitch when you get back. I'm still a beginner but it seems to make sense. Really enjoying these :-)
Cheers Tim! I'm assuming that's the lead setup... Yes you'd go a long way! Your option works, but it's not something I ever do... You just have to use some judgment and make good decisions.
#nitpicking: at 6:30 "it's not personal climbing it's .." then you tie fo8 with yosemite finish - in front of your clients - and threaded up the way. Yes i know its all debateable (ive seen and commented on your stopper knot vid) and doesn't matter but "on assessment don't do anything weird" - gold standard and all that. But as always excellent stuff Jez really like these useful videos
Hi Jez, just back in from practising - about 22 mins. Having a go at a lot of the other techniques you have been sharing, my confidence in rope handling has improved massively. I found your blog on the the RCI assessment which made a lot of sense having watched this film. A couple of abseil questions as a result: 1) Do use your lanyard to extend for the personal abseil and if so do you do your checks after attaching the belay device to the plate 2) fig8 descenders - wha.t are the pros and cons? They seem to be much less commonly used now. Cheers
Good work! 1. I do occasionally use my lanyard for abseiling, but when I do I tie a loop into it to clip the belay device to, using the normal end to clip in to a safety point. I do a rigging check pre attaching, then a final check once I'm good to go, before unattaching my safety. 2. Fig 8 descenders are ace for group work, they last ages - that's the advantage, as well as being cheap and it's often easier to load chunky ropes in to them. For personal stuff there's no point carrying one as your belay device does the same job.
Thanks for the feedback. The “Intro” clip is pretty slick. You seem to have really got your head around this editing lark! I suspect that the hours needed to produce 20 mins is quite scary though😂. Cheers Jez
Great video Jez. I'm looking to get my RCI assessment done before the end of the summer. How many shadowing sessions does a candidate need before going for assessment do you reckon?
Cheers! "You must have assisted in the supervision of 20 instructed sessions. These sessions should be at a variety of different venues with 10 being on indoor climbing walls and the other 10 on outdoor crags. A session is a half day or evening. At least five of these sessions must have personal reflective comments recorded on DLOG."
. Sorry for stupid question but what exactly means. "Personal reflective comment"? Is it comme t from the supervisor of the group or a customer climber ?
@@Cezary12213 Personal (that is from you) reflective (looking back, things to do again, things that went wrong and how to correct, things you liked things you didn’t) comment (you wrote something). The important thing is it shows you thinking about what you did and processing it.
Just been thinking about the anchor points for setting up. We always seem to start at the furthest point with a fig 8 with double stopper. Could you use a clove hitch? My thinking is that this more easily adjusted if you have a BFK from three anchors.
A clove hitch with a long tail is absolutely fine to do :) As with all these things, there's loads of ways of doing, if it's safe, simple and effective, I'm happy!
Cheers Jez. We were practising this week and scratching our heads to find a reason why we couldn’t. I need to buy you a coffee at some point. I hope the new restrictions are not affecting you too much. Maybe you will be head off to a warmer place soon 🤞🤞🤞
@@JBMountainSkills i would agree its like this for a vast majority to be fair. to be fair also my climbing setups etc are always pretty good looking but in general im pretty unorganised in ways like i personally just throw my gear on the harnes any old fassion, that or depending on which side i intend to hang on and work accordingly and never have an issue, thats just me i guess tho
Do you often find places where it's safe to have groups and allows you to have gear above you for example a big ledge that you can just walk safely to? I'm just trying to imagine how you would set up a group abseil if you were going from the top of a crag where all the gear placements were on the floor. I imagine that this is just the kind of thing you're looking to avoid when picking a location for a group abseil.
In terms of work, yes. Because I'd be careful to pick ideal locations to run the session. On RCI assessment though, some will be ideal spots, others less so...
![ไปอยู่ไสมา - ช๊อปเปอร์ โตเกียวมิวสิค [ OFFICIAL MUSIC VIDEO ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sWuVNbRTJbc/mqdefault.jpg)
Have a go, 15 minutes must be easily beatable!
Magic Jez. I just wish this series of videos was around before I sat my assessment last year. Would've made the assessment a lot easier. Managed to pass the assessment though. 😀 Still learning lots with these sessions. Keep them up. Love the more advanced ones 👍👍
Well done on passing!
Absolutely love your Vlog! I appreciate it very much, being able to return to sling mountain to refresh anything or consider different techniques.
I had a friend struggle with a new cam recently, following me up, and I told him not to worry about it. Told him I’d get it on our prerigged abseil down. The route wasn’t quite in line with the bolts (bolts were about five meter traverse on a healthy ledge) and I probably should’ve fixed a constructed anchor or re-direct on the ledge over the route and abseiled straight down. However, I didn’t want to complicate it for my friend. I was able to get the gear by walking my way across the face, but never like this again as when I looked up I considered the friction against my rope over the ledge meandering laterally. Not the safest strategy I’d say and tough on the new rope....
My question: when you set up your abseil and you get down to rescue the jammed piece. What do you do then? Do you typically ascend the rope back to your companion or client? Or would you consider another strategy (I was considering a prerigged belay from above, but then (if it was a beginner or a new partner) I would have to trust them to lower safely in the first place and I think that’s what I’d want to avoid by the strategy of abseiling and ascending....)?
Glad you like it!
In this Rock Climbing Instructor scenario I'd just walk back around to the top.
If that wasn't possible I'd probably self belay myself back up, unless they were capable of belaying me - but these options are outside of this specific qualification talked about in this video.
Awesome video Jez it’s exactly what I needed to double check my set ups for my RCI
Pleasure :)
"do not do weird things on your assessment, that's asking for trouble." 😅😂
It's a good mantra 😂
Magic Jez! I will be using this vlog a lot. 15 mins is going to be ideal to easily find each set up and check my practise set ups. Brilliant!
Awesome Video Jez!!😀
Cheers Luke!
Another good one - I was wondering if you fell at 7:00 you'd take a big fall, especially if you were going further away from the protection. However, I was taught if you use a carabiner to connect yourself to the centre of the W, you're still protected and can turn it into a clove hitch when you get back. I'm still a beginner but it seems to make sense. Really enjoying these :-)
Cheers Tim!
I'm assuming that's the lead setup... Yes you'd go a long way! Your option works, but it's not something I ever do...
You just have to use some judgment and make good decisions.
#nitpicking: at 6:30 "it's not personal climbing it's .." then you tie fo8 with yosemite finish - in front of your clients - and threaded up the way. Yes i know its all debateable (ive seen and commented on your stopper knot vid) and doesn't matter but "on assessment don't do anything weird" - gold standard and all that. But as always excellent stuff Jez really like these useful videos
Rob Stone good spot and a good talking point!
Hi Jez, just back in from practising - about 22 mins. Having a go at a lot of the other techniques you have been sharing, my confidence in rope handling has improved massively.
I found your blog on the the RCI assessment which made a lot of sense having watched this film. A couple of abseil questions as a result:
1) Do use your lanyard to extend for the personal abseil and if so do you do your checks after attaching the belay device to the plate
2) fig8 descenders - wha.t are the pros and cons? They seem to be much less commonly used now.
Cheers
Good work!
1. I do occasionally use my lanyard for abseiling, but when I do I tie a loop into it to clip the belay device to, using the normal end to clip in to a safety point. I do a rigging check pre attaching, then a final check once I'm good to go, before unattaching my safety.
2. Fig 8 descenders are ace for group work, they last ages - that's the advantage, as well as being cheap and it's often easier to load chunky ropes in to them. For personal stuff there's no point carrying one as your belay device does the same job.
Thanks for the feedback. The “Intro” clip is pretty slick. You seem to have really got your head around this editing lark! I suspect that the hours needed to produce 20 mins is quite scary though😂. Cheers Jez
Great video Jez. I'm looking to get my RCI assessment done before the end of the summer. How many shadowing sessions does a candidate need before going for assessment do you reckon?
Cheers! "You must have assisted in the supervision of 20 instructed sessions. These sessions should be at a variety of different venues with 10 being on indoor climbing walls and the other 10 on outdoor crags. A session is a half day or evening. At least five of these sessions must have personal reflective comments recorded on DLOG."
. Sorry for stupid question but what exactly means. "Personal reflective comment"? Is it comme t from the supervisor of the group or a customer climber ?
@@Cezary12213 Personal (that is from you) reflective (looking back, things to do again, things that went wrong and how to correct, things you liked things you didn’t) comment (you wrote something). The important thing is it shows you thinking about what you did and processing it.
Just been thinking about the anchor points for setting up. We always seem to start at the furthest point with a fig 8 with double stopper. Could you use a clove hitch? My thinking is that this more easily adjusted if you have a BFK from three anchors.
A clove hitch with a long tail is absolutely fine to do :)
As with all these things, there's loads of ways of doing, if it's safe, simple and effective, I'm happy!
Cheers Jez. We were practising this week and scratching our heads to find a reason why we couldn’t. I need to buy you a coffee at some point. I hope the new restrictions are not affecting you too much. Maybe you will be head off to a warmer place soon 🤞🤞🤞
i woul ddisagree that neatness makes faster times it all depends on howyour individaul mind works imo
Fair enough but I've assessed 100's of RCI candidates, and it certainly rings true from my experience.
@@JBMountainSkills i would agree its like this for a vast majority to be fair. to be fair also my climbing setups etc are always pretty good looking but in general im pretty unorganised in ways like i personally just throw my gear on the harnes any old fassion, that or depending on which side i intend to hang on and work accordingly and never have an issue, thats just me i guess tho
Do you often find places where it's safe to have groups and allows you to have gear above you for example a big ledge that you can just walk safely to? I'm just trying to imagine how you would set up a group abseil if you were going from the top of a crag where all the gear placements were on the floor. I imagine that this is just the kind of thing you're looking to avoid when picking a location for a group abseil.
In terms of work, yes. Because I'd be careful to pick ideal locations to run the session. On RCI assessment though, some will be ideal spots, others less so...
@@JBMountainSkills So practice for any likelihood, thank you very much haha