Hv ft tfft66yyyyyfcv8jn c fbkijb fchhvxcvbbcccbbbbdf XT ghhhhrkcvjdnckfkdvkgkxkvkfkckckxxmxkccjcjccjcjcjckckckckjdxkxkxkxkxkxxkxkckckcxkxkkcdicjfjcjfjxjcxjcjxj,mxmxkxkxkxkxkxkxkxkxkxkjxjxkxkxkxkxxkxcskfjfjdjfjdndjdjdxkajkdkjfjxjrixsc
I am in the middle of installing my turntable as the first piece of my new layout. All benchwork is done. I had read the instructions a couple of times and the wiring instructions were a little intimidating to me as I am new to DCC and do not have the track laid and wired yet. I will thank you for explaining how to wire with a visual and it now seems very simple. Thank you for your contribution to the hobby.
Hello, I been a model railroader for most my life and always look to see how others model so I can adapt to my own. I seen some stuff in your other videos I adapted as well, you are a good modeler. I have purchased this 130 foot turntable just because I watched your video! Right now I am trying to install it. Just wanted to say thank you for your video's and keep up the good work, I love them!
I've been pokin' around with this 130' footer for a while now, not critical for me as I've always got something to do on my layout. The instructions at best are poorly written. After watching your video it answered some very basic questions that the instructions 'glossed-over'. Thank you for that. The video helped a lot
Very well explained. Sitting with a 130" turntable and roundhouse in the closet; time to take it out and take the plunge! Thanks for the encouragement.
I have spent the last 6 or 7 hr's watching your videos. I have to say young man, that I can see your passion for model trains, your family and your job. It just so happens that I am ex. U.S.A.F myself. I loved building my train sets too, when I was younger. Now I see the same passion in you. May I suggest, if you go on vacations? Dearborn MI. Greenfield Village & the Henry Ford Museum. It takes a day to do 1 or the other.You won't regret it. Copy and search. Greenfield Village Railroad
Thanks for that. I just bought a Heljan turntable and I thought it would be good to see how you installed the Walters. It was very helpful. However, what surprised me was that the Walters is in fact a Heljan turntable rebadged. SO I was actually watching you install the very turntable I just purchased. Keep up the good work. All the best. John
Howdy! Thanks for this great "how to". My turntable is still quietly sitting in its box awaiting further development of the engine facilities and track laying around it so I don't booger it up. I'm back to the throttle after 28 years dealing with "real life". My t-table is my first new technology gizmo coming back! Yeah, I can read instructions; but, being dyslexic as hell, having a visual with your narrative will give me the confidence I lacked before today, (07-23-2014). Thanks, buddy! I'm laid up for a while and will be looking for more of your instalments. Keep up the great work. We old dinosaurs need folks like you! Hawk
Hey Buddy! I'm finally going to wire this thing. I just reviewed this, yet again. Wish me luck! (I still have not got any trains to run yet. DCC is still way way out of my league and the guys who promised to help me are no shows.)
I once helped a friend install one of these.The turn table is so flimsy that we ended up installing cross members under the table to add additional support. After that we had no more problems with cracking or bowing. Excellent video though thanks.
Lots of good info. I found the marking of the pit/opening for the TT pit to be overly complicated. Just invert the pit, draw circle around its circumference, or mark, and then draw another inside that to account for the width of the lip. Drill one hole, insert jigsaw blade, and carefully saw around the inner circle. Worked like a charm for me.
Hello , thank you for yours videos. I’ve learnt a lot with them. I have a problem with Walther tourntable control unit, diodes bridge fired out. 933-2829 is the reference and I can’t find replacement for it. Walther shows a new control unit but they say isn’t compatible with mine. Could somebody help me? Please. I live in Spain, Europe. Thanks.👍
I also forgot to mention I handlay all my track with Micro Engineering code 100 rail. How hard would it be to remove the bridge track and replace it with the code 100 I am using and also are the slots in the roundhouse floor accepting of the Micro code 100? Thanks!!
I know this video is a little Old now - but have you moved on to control the TT direct from the ecos or some other command station - how you did it etc...... good video btw cheers JC
I had a couple thoughts for you. I have the same engine house / car shop building and what I did is the doors on the rear of the building I used it as a freight door and put a road up to it and park a trailer there so you might think about that idea for one of the un-used doors. The other thought I had was, you might put some strips of track in front of the doors that are not being used and paint them a rust color and bury them in dirt and weeds. Might look cool.
One question, Why did you leave your trains on the table? That may create problems later when you go to clean the wheels especially due to the fact saw dust gets into everything... learned that the hard way when a motor in an older "Blue Box" GP60M seized up.
Question on turnouts in DCC. Would insulfrog or electrofrog be better for turnaround loops if running a train in DCC, assuming the gaps are already in the correct place? The frog is the main worry especially with metal wheelsets these days.
My grandfather and I went to install the 90 foot turntable into his layout a few days ago. It ends up the hole we had for the prior piece of junk table was larger than the new one. To solve this we took some scrap wood like 2x4 or 1x2's and screwed them onto the benchwork, and used them as lips to support the table.
Will the 90' table handle the UP heritage units? I won't be doing steam and dont see a need for the 130' one if the Heritage units will fit on the 90' one.
A question; you have the operator at the far end and I watch the real operations and the operator is at the near end. By that the end where the loco comes on to the turntable which puts the operator at the end when the locomotive enters the roundhouse or the designated track. ???
Is the NO TRACK area the place where the sensor is or can you put a track stall where the sensor is I was told the no track area is 45 degree from the sensor ..please help
This is the DCC option. You mentioned the DC option being different......would you be able to tell me how that is supposed to work, if there are instructions for the installation with regular DC? Thanks!
Why is there a no track area if the left and right rail align with the corresponding left and right rail? In other words, why a no track area when there is no need for a polarity flip?
Great job as usual and I appriciate your efforts to share these ideas and evaluations. With that ssaid I do wonder however if you set the ends of the turntable correctly as the shack is generally at the track end they are receiving the locomotive from and you have yours 180 degrees out. I too have one of these so really appriciate the detail you went to. Thanks, Ted
I didn´t understand why the turntable cuts the power to the locomotive (stopping sounds and lights) if you need it to move it from there. The ´system´ cuts while spinning automatically? and the power goes back when it stops?
I'm working on installing my 90', basically the same. One thing I have a question about is that track wiring you did. The walthers diagram in mine shows the inside screws/wires paired and the outside also paired. Is that the alternate wiring you mentioned? I haven't placed a locomotive on it but have it powered up and no shorts on my dcc.
@ Questions please: Do slots or notches along the perimeter of the base need to be cut or drilled to prevent the base from turning? (Keeping the "zero point" in line? Seems like the screws through the rim into the bench top would suffice? You seemed to indicate that Walthers track must be used as approach and bridge tracks? I've got Atlas Code 83 flex track. Does this matter any? Thanks watch all of your videos! Jim
Personally I think their the best. Never any issues. I would check with a local hobby shop and see if they have experience with them Like here in Maryland I shop MB Klein and all their DCC pro's NCE are the system all of them own. So it was kinda a no Brainer for me. But Alot of hobby shops have gone belly up over the past ten years or so. Really only Klein and 1 other left anywhere even remotely near me and even Klein is about 30 to 35 minutes away. But their customer service is second to none and their prices are cheaper as well. Comparable to Internet prices in most cases. So their my go to now that GPA went out of business about 5 or 6 years ago. Really nice people at Klein though.
I have the 85'version of the turntable and was wondering,where did you find the indexing unit and you mentioned it working with a DC layout as I am not using DCC ?
Did you mean 90 degrees from the sensor for "no track area"? You said 45 degrees but pointed 90. Just wanted to get clarification because I'm helping a friend install one of these.
I saw your video, bought the 130 turntable, but now I bought Walthers 933-2321 advance module, with very complicated instructions. It say you can do this &that with dcc. I have NCE but don’t know what kind of cables etc and what, where to connect. Any help? I emailed Walthers and they just said use bread board jumpers. I emailed again for more info, receive no reply.
Hello, you have great videos . Question for you. I am installing the walthers 110 round table. I have power to the track but having problems getting power to the TT. I tried running power from my Digitrax power booster but getting an E8 flashing on the control box. What would be a good power source for the TT?
all your videos are great. I’m getting ready to build the HO-29 from Atlas, and i want to add a turntable to it. There has got to be a way to get past the sound dropping out. Capacitor on the decoder board?
Follow up: I emailed Walthers about this and they confirmed. From Walthers: The phenomenon that you speak of happens when the bridge crosses the "dead zone" where bridge rail polarity is reversed. It's virtually impossible to stop in the turntable because of the polarity issues but it can be eradicated in the loco by installing storage capacitor technology. Several manufacturers are starting to use this in their decoders and are also offering it as stand-alone technology with names such as Current Keeper, Stay Alive or Keep Alive. These units are designed to provide several seconds of power to a loco should it run across dead track, a dead switch, etc.
Great video. i have a question. i have the same turntable. i plan on doing a almost full circle roundhouse, but when you said no track area it made me question that possibility, do u think its possible? It is said that it is programable to 60 different tracks. i would like ur thoughts on the matter. Also what year did you buy this turntable? i ask because the one i have came with a green controler with buttons but has the same grey thick wire under the turntable. what i am planning is building a complete Steam, Diesel, and car servicing facilitie. ive been in the hobby for years but this will be my first attempt at any sort of a layout.
Yeah I filmed the intro after I did the work. That's why I mentioned in the intro to wear it because like I said I was squinting and stuff during cutting.
The instructions suggest using code 83 track as that is what is used on the turntable bridge. You can either change the track on the bridge, or use Walthers transition tracks to make the change from 83 to another code.
Great video and tutorial! Question: even though the TT is digitally controlled by DCC, can it be converted to 3 rail HO? I have a Marklin system but currently there's no TT in 3 rail HO that can accommodate a Marklin Big Boy or Challengers. (which I have multiple) Thanks in advance, Cesar.
Waahh I've wanted one of these for my layout for years but can never find one. Where did you find that one. Great video by the way and the layout is coming along nice
Thanksfor this informative vid' as regards progamming. will prog' mine tomorrow. Why do people keep asking who makes it ? It's printed on the control box, for petes sake. Heljan or Walthers. They sure as sugar , don't only need safety glasses, also need binoculars. once again, Thank-you
hey James. I know this is a older video. but I lost my instructions for programming the turn table. Do you still have your instructions? and is there a way you can send me a copy. unless you plan on doing a video on how to program this. I know you just moved or in the process of doing soon, but if you get time. let me know my friend, if you can help me out. mind you i kind of understand your how to program, so will at least try it.. thanks.
why is track code important to choose when building a layout? I don't understand why would one use as oppose to code 80? could anyone answer this? does the code really matter? which code matches that of the authentically with the real thing? thanks
The instructions suggest using code 83 track as that is what is used on the turntable bridge. You can either change the track on the bridge, or use Walthers transition tracks to make the change from 83 to another code. Code 83 is supposed to be the current choice for accuracy. It is important to remember that railroads use different weights (or in model terms Code) of rail for different purposes or uses. It would be truly appropriate to use different code track for yards and sidings as a opposed to using the same code as your main line. Your main line should have the heaviest weight or higher code to be accurate. It all differs with prototype and preference.
I've been model railroading for more then 50 years in german trains,mostly fleischmann and roco in locos and rolling stock,and I wanted to incorporate a turntable, so I bought the Walthers 90' one with the motor from a local hobby shop,well when I received it and started to assemble it it was one problem after another,these turntables have serious design flaws,like the motor housing and the motor itself fasten with self drilling stews,since there is very little tolerance for the gear and the motor to turn the bridge especially with self drillers,never mind removing the housing or the motor several times for lubrication,it simply doesn't work good,among other flaws,simply put a piece of junk,so I bought a Fleischmann turntable,simply put " top notch" operation all the way.
MrDalek2150 Union Pacific Turn tables were only 128/129 feet if I remember right. The front end and rear end of the Big Boys hug out over the turn table ends.
If I'm 49 and I'm living at my parents house who are now deceased??? Also if I am using a type of adhesive that's Super---- Super Glue and I by accident Super Glue the midgets hair to the bottom of the table, do I solder his mouth shout, making sure he doesn't get me in trouble???? Other than that, great video!
Only real problem I see is that the operators shack should be the end to line up with the chosen track because if it’s the other end he can’t see if it is properly aligned.
What do you call a man with one eye and 7 fingers?
A veteran carpenter.
Hv ft tfft66yyyyyfcv8jn c fbkijb fchhvxcvbbcccbbbbdf XT ghhhhrkcvjdnckfkdvkgkxkvkfkckckxxmxkccjcjccjcjcjckckckckjdxkxkxkxkxkxxkxkckckcxkxkkcdicjfjcjfjxjcxjcjxj,mxmxkxkxkxkxkxkxkxkxkxkjxjxkxkxkxkxxkxcskfjfjdjfjdndjdjdxkajkdkjfjxjrixsc
I am in the middle of installing my turntable as the first piece of my new layout. All benchwork is done. I had read the instructions a couple of times and the wiring instructions were a little intimidating to me as I am new to DCC and do not have the track laid and wired yet. I will thank you for explaining how to wire with a visual and it now seems very simple. Thank you for your contribution to the hobby.
Hello, I been a model railroader for most my life and always look to see how others model so I can adapt to my own. I seen some stuff in your other videos I adapted as well, you are a good modeler. I have purchased this 130 foot turntable just because I watched your video! Right now I am trying to install it. Just wanted to say thank you for your video's and keep up the good work, I love them!
I've been pokin' around with this 130' footer for a while now, not critical for me as I've always got something to do on my layout. The instructions at best are poorly written. After watching your video it answered some very basic questions that the instructions 'glossed-over'. Thank you for that. The video helped a lot
Very well explained. Sitting with a 130" turntable and roundhouse in the closet; time to take it out and take the plunge! Thanks for the encouragement.
"Mom, is it ok with you if I install a 130ft turntable in the basement?"
**Silence**
"Thanks, mom! You're the best!" Hahaha.
HawkeyeSTiGuy lol that's funny 😂
I got mine for $99.89 at a hobby shop. I had no clue what to do with it untill I saw your video
I have spent the last 6 or 7 hr's watching your videos. I have to say young man, that I can see your passion for model trains, your family and your job. It just so happens that I am ex. U.S.A.F myself. I loved building my train sets too, when I was younger. Now I see the same passion in you. May I suggest, if you go on vacations? Dearborn MI. Greenfield Village & the Henry Ford Museum. It takes a day to do 1 or the other.You won't regret it. Copy and search. Greenfield Village Railroad
Thanks for that. I just bought a Heljan turntable and I thought it would be good to see how you installed the Walters. It was very helpful.
However, what surprised me was that the Walters is in fact a Heljan turntable rebadged. SO I was actually watching you install the very turntable I just purchased. Keep up the good work. All the best. John
Howdy! Thanks for this great "how to". My turntable is still quietly sitting in its box awaiting further development of the engine facilities and track laying around it so I don't booger it up. I'm back to the throttle after 28 years dealing with "real life". My t-table is my first new technology gizmo coming back! Yeah, I can read instructions; but, being dyslexic as hell, having a visual with your narrative will give me the confidence I lacked before today, (07-23-2014). Thanks, buddy! I'm laid up for a while and will be looking for more of your instalments. Keep up the great work. We old dinosaurs need folks like you! Hawk
Hey Buddy! I'm finally going to wire this thing. I just reviewed this, yet again. Wish me luck! (I still have not got any trains to run yet. DCC is still way way out of my league and the guys who promised to help me are no shows.)
I once helped a friend install one of these.The turn table is so flimsy that we ended up installing cross members under the table to add additional support. After that we had no more problems with cracking or bowing. Excellent video though thanks.
I'm starting my own layout in O gauge instead of OH ... But your videos apply to the same principles. Thanks and great work!!
It’s HO scale not OH
I agree with you. I was just going by the book, but what you're saying makes sense. Thanks for the comment.
Do you recommend covering the nearby scenery with plastic drop cloth?
Great layout can you show us how and what motor system is under the turntable and also were did you get the roundhouse
Lots of good info. I found the marking of the pit/opening for the TT pit to be overly complicated. Just invert the pit, draw circle around its circumference, or mark, and then draw another inside that to account for the width of the lip. Drill one hole, insert jigsaw blade, and carefully saw around the inner circle. Worked like a charm for me.
Hello , thank you for yours videos. I’ve learnt a lot with them.
I have a problem with Walther tourntable control unit, diodes bridge fired out.
933-2829 is the reference and I can’t find replacement for it.
Walther shows a new control unit but they say isn’t compatible with mine.
Could somebody help me? Please.
I live in Spain, Europe.
Thanks.👍
Excellent video. I am going to add one to my N Scale layout. I was looking for a good how to video. Thanks.
I also forgot to mention I handlay all my track with Micro Engineering code 100 rail. How hard would it be to remove the bridge track and replace it with the code 100 I am using and also are the slots in the roundhouse floor accepting of the Micro code 100? Thanks!!
I know this video is a little Old now - but have you moved on to control the TT direct from the ecos or some other command station - how you did it etc...... good video btw cheers JC
Whatmake of roundhouse and engine house? I'm looking for something like both of those
I had a couple thoughts for you. I have the same engine house / car shop building and what I did is the doors on the rear of the building I used it as a freight door and put a road up to it and park a trailer there so you might think about that idea for one of the un-used doors. The other thought I had was, you might put some strips of track in front of the doors that are not being used and paint them a rust color and bury them in dirt and weeds. Might look cool.
the no track area is pretty much where power will cut out because it's switching polarity, it runs 90 degrees perpendicular with the sensor.
One question, Why did you leave your trains on the table?
That may create problems later when you go to clean the wheels especially due to the fact saw dust gets into everything... learned that the hard way when a motor in an older "Blue Box" GP60M seized up.
This is the video I was talking about. Just love it. Have watch about three times
Question on turnouts in DCC. Would insulfrog or electrofrog be better for turnaround loops if running a train in DCC, assuming the gaps are already in the correct place? The frog is the main worry especially with metal wheelsets these days.
My grandfather and I went to install the 90 foot turntable into his layout a few days ago. It ends up the hole we had for the prior piece of junk table was larger than the new one. To solve this we took some scrap wood like 2x4 or 1x2's and screwed them onto the benchwork, and used them as lips to support the table.
Awesome video!! Can you maybe make a video of the turntable operating
Thank you! Can the turntable turn 180 degrees inorder to reverse the dirction of the locomotive?
Will the 90' table handle the UP heritage units? I won't be doing steam and dont see a need for the 130' one if the Heritage units will fit on the 90' one.
Great video. Thinking of getting one for my layout. What is the function of the 2 buttons next to he display?
Im wondering what the two buttons above the right side down arrow do , because the manual makes reference to them in the button map ???
Love your videos and find them entertaining and educational.
Thanks
Did you place the roundhouse where you wanted it then traced the centerline of the track to find the center hole for the turntable?
Would be interesting to see the underside of the table, the motor and the wiring, etc.
A question; you have the operator at the far end and I watch the real operations and the operator is at the near end. By that the end where the loco comes on to the turntable which puts the operator at the end when the locomotive enters the roundhouse or the designated track. ???
Is the NO TRACK area the place where the sensor is or can you put a track stall where the sensor is I was told the no track area is 45 degree from the sensor ..please help
One thing I did with mine is I got a 10 position rotory switch and wire them to the stalls so I don't have to do kill switches to kill tracks.
This is the DCC option. You mentioned the DC option being different......would you be able to tell me how that is supposed to work, if there are instructions for the installation with regular DC? Thanks!
is the 6 stall standard? the website selling this didn't say
Thanks bro your vid has been a huge help ive installed mine was just needing clarification on wiring it legend buddy 😉
Is that the Walthers 933-2859? Six years later, are you still liking this device?
Why is there a no track area if the left and right rail align with the corresponding left and right rail?
In other words, why a no track area when there is no need for a polarity flip?
I didn't see the engine, but, is this turntable big enough for the big boy?
Keep alive module on locos will fix the sound lights cutting out when passing no track area
Great job as usual and I appriciate your efforts to share these ideas and evaluations. With that ssaid I do wonder however if you set the ends of the turntable correctly as the shack is generally at the track end they are receiving the locomotive from and you have yours 180 degrees out. I too have one of these so really appriciate the detail you went to. Thanks, Ted
How long are the stalls on your roundhouse?
I didn´t understand why the turntable cuts the power to the locomotive (stopping sounds and lights) if you need it to move it from there. The ´system´ cuts while spinning automatically? and the power goes back when it stops?
what are the 2 grey buttons on the blue box ( upper right side)
Can you tell which smoke unit is fitted to the first loco? (The black one). Cheers.
I have a question I saw you have UP 2001 and 2002 are they custom painted?
I'm working on installing my 90', basically the same. One thing I have a question about is that track wiring you did. The walthers diagram in mine shows the inside screws/wires paired and the outside also paired. Is that the alternate wiring you mentioned? I haven't placed a locomotive on it but have it powered up and no shorts on my dcc.
hello wondering about N scale it will work just like you have one right now can it be done???
@ Questions please: Do slots or notches along the perimeter of the base need to be cut or drilled to prevent the base from turning? (Keeping the "zero point" in line? Seems like the screws through the rim into the bench top would suffice?
You seemed to indicate that Walthers track must be used as approach and bridge tracks? I've got Atlas Code 83 flex track. Does this matter any? Thanks watch all of your videos! Jim
Who is the round house made by I'm looking for one for my layout
What are the dimensions of the turntable, car shop, and roundhouse altogether?
Looking to get into a DCC system for running 2-3 engines at one time. I'm told NCE Power Cab is the way to go, is this correct?
That is what I am going with since a model railroad dealer and hobbiest told me that is the best one to get.
Personally I think their the best. Never any issues. I would check with a local hobby shop and see if they have experience with them Like here in Maryland I shop MB Klein and all their DCC pro's NCE are the system all of them own. So it was kinda a no Brainer for me. But Alot of hobby shops have gone belly up over the past ten years or so. Really only Klein and 1 other left anywhere even remotely near me and even Klein is about 30 to 35 minutes away. But their customer service is second to none and their prices are cheaper as well. Comparable to Internet prices in most cases. So their my go to now that GPA went out of business about 5 or 6 years ago. Really nice people at Klein though.
Digitrax is a good choice too .
I have the 85'version of the turntable and was wondering,where did you find the indexing unit and you mentioned it working with a DC layout as I am not using DCC ?
Did you mean 90 degrees from the sensor for "no track area"? You said 45 degrees but pointed 90. Just wanted to get clarification because I'm helping a friend install one of these.
Where did you get your backdrop?
where to purchase at relative budgeted cost as I have seen the 130 DCC at 700.00????
very good video and instructions, very useful. thanks
I saw your video, bought the 130 turntable, but now I bought Walthers 933-2321 advance module, with very complicated instructions. It say you can do this &that with dcc. I have NCE but don’t know what kind of cables etc and what, where to connect. Any help? I emailed Walthers and they just said use bread board jumpers. I emailed again for more info, receive no reply.
My email verschaged@gmail.com
Hey um can ez track work with this because I’m an ez track guy
Hello, you have great videos . Question for you. I am installing the walthers 110 round table. I have power to the track but having problems getting power to the TT. I tried running power from my Digitrax power booster but getting an E8 flashing on the control box. What would be a good power source for the TT?
all your videos are great. I’m getting ready to build the HO-29 from Atlas, and i want to add a turntable to it. There has got to be a way to get past the sound dropping out. Capacitor on the decoder board?
Follow up: I emailed Walthers about this and they confirmed.
From Walthers: The phenomenon that you speak of happens when the bridge crosses the "dead zone" where bridge rail polarity is reversed. It's virtually impossible to stop in the turntable because of the polarity issues but it can be eradicated in the loco by installing storage capacitor technology. Several manufacturers are starting to use this in their decoders and are also offering it as stand-alone technology with names such as Current Keeper, Stay Alive or Keep Alive. These units are designed to provide several seconds of power to a loco should it run across dead track, a dead switch, etc.
MrAbell12 Do you think if installing auto-reversing polarity gismo would eliminate the dead zone issue with older engine shuting off?
Great video. i have a question. i have the same turntable. i plan on doing a almost full circle roundhouse, but when you said no track area it made me question that possibility, do u think its possible? It is said that it is programable to 60 different tracks. i would like ur thoughts on the matter. Also what year did you buy this turntable? i ask because the one i have came with a green controler with buttons but has the same grey thick wire under the turntable. what i am planning is building a complete Steam, Diesel, and car servicing facilitie. ive been in the hobby for years but this will be my first attempt at any sort of a layout.
Are you using roadbed on the incoming tracks or do the rails meet the turntable height w/o roadbed?
brianstaugust no its down to just the rails, ties sitting on the foam
Yeah I filmed the intro after I did the work. That's why I mentioned in the intro to wear it because like I said I was squinting and stuff during cutting.
where did you find the turnable set, controll and buildings you used on this layout?
I use Atlas code 80 flex track would that be okay use to match up with the Walthers track in the Turntable kit??
The instructions suggest using code 83 track as that is what is used on the turntable bridge. You can either change the track on the bridge, or use Walthers transition tracks to make the change from 83 to another code.
Soldering your fingers together.. did I hear right?
You heard right, but that is not possible and it was a joke. Burning your fingers is more likely.
Thanks for the correction, it wasn't to be taken personally.
it's possible if you're a robot. Then its a very serious matter indeed.
Great video and tutorial! Question: even though the TT is digitally controlled by DCC, can it be converted to 3 rail HO? I have a Marklin system but currently there's no TT in 3 rail HO that can accommodate a Marklin Big Boy or Challengers. (which I have multiple) Thanks in advance, Cesar.
Waahh I've wanted one of these for my layout for years but can never find one. Where did you find that one. Great video by the way and the layout is coming along nice
What type of remote for turntable that?
Is that code 83 rail?
Don't forget eye protection when using the jig saw, you mentioned it in your intro, but did not follow your own advice. Great video BTW.
Thanksfor this informative vid' as regards progamming. will prog' mine tomorrow. Why do people keep asking who makes it ? It's printed on the control box, for petes sake. Heljan or Walthers. They sure as sugar , don't only need safety glasses, also need binoculars. once again, Thank-you
hey James. I know this is a older video. but I lost my instructions for programming the turn table. Do you still have your instructions? and is there a way you can send me a copy. unless you plan on doing a video on how to program this.
I know you just moved or in the process of doing soon, but if you get time. let me know my friend, if you can help me out.
mind you i kind of understand your how to program, so will at least try it.. thanks.
why is track code important to choose when building a layout? I don't understand why would one use as oppose to code 80? could anyone answer this? does the code really matter? which code matches that of the authentically with the real thing? thanks
The instructions suggest using code 83 track as that is what is used on the turntable bridge. You can either change the track on the bridge, or use Walthers transition tracks to make the change from 83 to another code. Code 83 is supposed to be the current choice for accuracy. It is important to remember that railroads use different weights (or in model terms Code) of rail for different purposes or uses. It would be truly appropriate to use different code track for yards and sidings as a opposed to using the same code as your main line. Your main line should have the heaviest weight or higher code to be accurate. It all differs with prototype and preference.
I've been model railroading for more then 50 years in german trains,mostly fleischmann and roco in locos and rolling stock,and I wanted to incorporate a turntable, so I bought the Walthers 90' one with the motor from a local hobby shop,well when I received it and started to assemble it it was one problem after another,these turntables have serious design flaws,like the motor housing and the motor itself fasten with self drilling stews,since there is very little tolerance for the gear and the motor to turn the bridge especially with self drillers,never mind removing the housing or the motor several times for lubrication,it simply doesn't work good,among other flaws,simply put a piece of junk,so I bought a Fleischmann turntable,simply put " top notch" operation all the way.
what too do if loco turn around
How do I install it turned him on my way out
Like my dad would say Son i love seeing a power tool in ur hands then that gsmer controller.
Nice video, just subbed. This looks like a great turntable.
Yes, eye protection is always recommended - just ask blinkie.
Is jlwii2000 still responding here?
Hahaha "a decent size midget" cracked me up lol. Great video James
The ultmate turntable for bigboy class......
Not exactly the big boys were 133 ft combining engine and tender, this is only 130 ft.
I ment the model...not the prototype. ....
MrDalek2150 Union Pacific Turn tables were only 128/129 feet if I remember right. The front end and rear end of the Big Boys hug out over the turn table ends.
If I'm 49 and I'm living at my parents house who are now deceased??? Also if I am using a type of adhesive that's Super---- Super Glue and I by accident Super Glue the midgets hair to the bottom of the table, do I solder his mouth shout, making sure he doesn't get me in trouble???? Other than that, great video!
I might put one of these on my layout! this is cool! thanks!
+Class 1 Railroader Good luck
lol damn this was a while ago
lol how many layouts was that ago?
Great job James, looks awesome.
sorry dude wife just broke her wrist and we were in the ER when I noticed your comment on my phone so I wasnt in the best of moods.
Only real problem I see is that the operators shack should be the end to line up with the chosen track because if it’s the other end he can’t see if it is properly aligned.
I like your informative videos, thank you!!
Thank you! Great video.
sweet this would help me on my layout
Looking good sir! Keep up the good work!
Nice UP passenger train in the case.
you cut a hole and put it in and connect wires done