Layering Up...Tips for Super Secret Chain Coating
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video, Josh explains the efficiency of Super Secret Chain Coating and how "Layering Up" can get your chain within 3% of the most efficient chain treatment, aka a hot wax-treated chain. So, if you are not in the 'wax curious' crowd, but you still want the benefits of a cleaner, quieter, and less friction (faster) chain. Here's how you can achieve 97% of that efficiency without hot waxing your chain by Layering Up.
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Secret Chain Blend: silca.cc/collections/chain-lu...
Super Secret Chain Coating: silca.cc/collections/chain-lu...
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Founded in Milan in 1917 and now based in Indianapolis, SILCA is renowned for its passion for cycling. Led by cycling industry leader, Josh Poertner, the brand has expanded from the iconic SuperPista pump to a full range of high-end cycling tools and gear, collaborating with UCI World Tour teams to enhance cycling performance. SILCA combines tradition with innovation, inspiring cyclists to enjoy both riding and maintenance.
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Thank you for your tips once again Josh!!!! I found another use for the ss drip,I have been applying it to the zippers on my trunk bag and paniers it makes them feel like new again...Cheers
Nice info, recently went to Super Secret on two new bikes and converted a third, so far so good here in Colorado conditions.
Josh already touched this subject before and yes: I´m layering Up!
Great video. I was not aware that I could go straight from water to wax. I was letting chain dry fully then wax. A nice time saver!
After a few months of trying to get the striper and coating set I finally got it today, Chain stripping process done per the process in the for on bike stripping video and I just applied the first layer of the Chain Coating.
I'm amazed at how clean my slightly used chain is I can run a finger on the chain and no dirty residue on it.
The Chain Striper is an awesome product by itself.
I can't wait to see how my bike runs with its newly "coated" chain.
Im planning on getting a new bicycle in a couple of months I will strip and coat its chain once I get it.
Such a helpful video! Thank you!
Thanks Josh and Silca team, very helpful! One question though, how do your excellent chain wipes play into this? I typically wipe the chain down with your wipes after each long ride, does that mean the chain will then warrant another layer? PS, not looking to save wax, merely to be as fast as possible! 😎
Thanks! I couldn't find this basic information before. Maybe time to put it on the label?
These latest videos have been really helpful.
Does it matter if the 1 drop per link is on the top or bottom of the chain?
Also, I have a heat gun near my waxing area , so I apply some heat as I spin the chain to help it penetrate, is this a good idea ?
Thanks, Dave
Thank you Josh (and Ollie from GCN) for getting me into waxing. Hot wax and layering up as you suggest here. I am faster but for me who has a severe hatred of noise, it is so quiet and it makes my rides that much more enjoyable. I almost find extra peace in the world just listening to the absence of sound.
I hot waxed my chains with Silca’s wax and maintain with Silca’s Super Secret chain coating in between my century or multiple long rides. I have been having great results with Silca wax and coating! Thanks Josh! Your insights are appreciated and professional products are amazing!
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback and your kind words!
@@SILCAVelocan the super secret wax be used though the winter? Obviously it's going to be much wetter on the roads so just wondering how often you would apply. Many thanks
Mike
Hi! Great stuff! I have both the hot wax and the super. Wondering how do I clean my gravel bike. Do I have to remove the chain? Can I spray water over it? I wondering if the wax will fall off. Thanks!
I use super secret and love it. I have been using denatured alcohol to clean the chain every several weeks and reapplying super secret to my chain. Is denatured alcohol clean the super secret or should I use boiling water?
After shifting to the biggest sprocket and the big chainring (to open the small gaps in the chain the widest possible, due to an obviously optimal chain line, the chain does not drop to the second sprocket), I hold a kitchen tissue under the upper running chain and really pour the liquid wax over the chain, so with the tissue, I create kind of a "wax bath" by squeezing the tissue a little bit and twisting the chain a little bit. This uses about four kitchen tissues a larger ammount of liquid wax, but I have a nice stiff chain after the waxing when it is dry. When it is still wet, I turn the pedals backwards so the wax is really good distributed, and wait at least 12 hours before using the bike. When the chain was new, I also made three times a waxing. I still use the cassette, and as it is an 11speed cassette specially prepared for the use on a 8-10speed freehub (the freewheel of a FH-6402 on both a Specialized trispoke and a HED 3D-disc wheel), I am really glad that I switched to chain wax - the cassette (CS-6800 11-23 has got at least 18.000 km) is still good, even no chain vibration, which occurs when the cassette is about to be worn out. I always renew the waxing as soon as the chain only feels a little bit waxed. I already have purchased the hot melt wax, but I still search a "wax cooker", I wonder whether the ones used for skin peeling are usable for chains?
Josh, thank you for the excellent informative videos about your products for chain lubrication. I am confused about the difference between the super secret lube and the synergetic lube. Could you do a video explaining and comparing the difference and the pros and cons of the two products side-by-side? That would be excellent. Thank you.
SuperSecret is a wax based lubricant and Synergetic is oil based. Synergetic is for people who do not wish to do the whole chain stripping and wax maintenance protocol, with Synergetic you just apply and ride like any other lubricant.
As far as articulating the chain during a drip wax application (eg. by cross chaining and back-pedaling etc.), do you have any advice for single-speeders or track riders? Is the move a finger massage, a little tickle and twist while the lube is still wet?
The only issue I have encountered - I used Silca Synergetic for the life of my SRAM force chain on a red groupset - I got about 10,000 *miles* done and still replaced it earlier than strictly necessary according to my chain checker. Absolutely brilliant longevity thanks to the Synergetic lube.
However, once I put a new chain on (a few days before the Mallorca 312) I encountered a pretty loud and annoying creak from the inner ring - after quite a bit of troubleshooting me and the mechanic were able to come to the conclusion that it was due to the wear of the inner ring being so out of sync with the new chain. Around 2k riding later and the creak is less pronounced but still there.
Just something to be aware of!
Seems to me your wear checker is way off and you did ride your actually weared chain. You should replace the chain with 0,5% wear. That correlates more or less on the 0,5 mark, not the 0,75 or even 1,0 mark!
What about a waxed chain on a mountain bike? Do you reapply drip and reset at smaller intervals? I find my MTB chain after a few rides (especially with creek crossings) starts making noise much earlier than my road chain.....
I would love to know also
@@justing6614it just doesn’t work well if you’re riding wet conditions- not much you can do about it. I have 2 bikes - one for my typically dry local trails, one that only gets ridden in a damp temperate rainforest. Both have identical SRAM drivetrains. I use a parrafin hot wax on the former and it works remarkably well. It’s nearly silent, shifts well and the chain lasts a very long time.The same wax treatment fails after only a few miles on the bike that usually sees damp conditions, though. It doesn’t take much water to cause issues.
Unfortunately mtb conditions are just too harsh for anything to really survive, so the best bet is to have at least two chains, so you can swap over while re-waxing the other and then repeat.
I ride in all sorts of weather in the UK, and some times a chain will do one ride.
Thanks Josh....
I would actually like to see the boiling water part done on video. Can you put the chain in an old kettle and boil away? If in a tray, how many boils needed as cools quickly?
Also...before my recent switch to waxing (all really good so far) I used to lube on bottom of the chain to get into the main roller areas in contact with the rings. But drip lube would then drop through onto the floor. So should I be dripping on the top over the cassette allowing it to drop through onto the rings to give extra smoothness? Not sure?
Can you do a video on ultrasonic waxing please?
Hi Josh! I wipe my chain off with the chain wipes after every ride! How much of the wax is being removed from the chain?
Hi Josh, I am wondering if the Super Secret stuff would work in bearings too? They don't get as dirty as chains, but how well would that work? Or is it grease all the way when lubricating BBs and wheel bearngs?
very interesting!
Josh. Amazing product and idea. What is your take on Silca Super Secret wax ( and layering ) on SRAM AXS Rival/Force 12 speed . Will it creep sufficiently into the insides of the AXS chain, given how tight it is.
Oh yeah, it gets in there no problem.. we do recommend the Force level chain over the Red as it is slightly looser and also runs about 1w more efficiently as it has a thinner metal coating that also seems to do a better job of holding the wax.
Did you ever investigate dissolving the wax in something like xylene? It seems like that would both dissolve the wax added to it as well as temporarily dissolving the wax already on the chain, causing them to merge shorty after application. Then the xylene evaporates quickly and the wax remains.
Does it help to turn the cranks a few times in the 24h phase where the water evaporates to work it in better? Does it make sense to speed up the process with a heat source (or just put the bike outside on a hot day)?
Wiping the chain after gravel riding? Do you have a video on that? Thanks
I run 7 and 9 speed chains so don't mind removing them often to hot wax and they are cheap enough to have a few waxed chains in rotation.
I've been using super secret on my MTB and noticed that the chain seems to get smoother/ slicker operating after a few relubes. Sounds like this is basically what's happening.
Great video! One question. If you're switching from another wax, like squirt, is there a good way to get the old wax off before you put on super secret? I tried the boiling water. But I wasn't successful at getting some of that wax off. It was still kind of caked on. On. I'm sure it will work better with the super secret.
Squirt is a mixture of wax and oil, so boiling water isn't very effective. Your best bet would be something like Xylene or Toluene.
Would using a hair dryer at any point help to move SS deeper into the chain?
How does riding in rain or exposing it to lots of water affect the wax on the chain? Do I just wipe it down? Or do I need to apply wax again?
Josh I put Super Secret in a small freezer bag with my chain then seal it and let it soak in for an hour or so. I will occasionally massage the chain in the bag to move it around. Has worked well but would interested in hearing how that approach compares to layering.
There is just a few % advantage to immersion with SuperSecret, but it will still not be as good as layering. You may want to add 1 additional layer if you use bag technique you describe first.
@SILCAVelo ok next time I do a thorough cleaning I will do that but will try layering when I do my quick cleaning.
Super Secret drip is compatible with Secret Chain blend for topping off, but what about with Hot Wax X? Can you top off with Super Secret a few rides in when you've used Hot Wax X for immersive wax?
will back pedaling and cross chaining for a few minutes in the stand have enough load to layer the chain 3 times?
I’ll just keep hot melt waxing. This actually seems like more work and time than the full hot melt especially when you batch 8+ chains at a time.
Exactly what you said. I think it’s 97% Wax 100% BULL$$$$$HIT. I get 350 to 400 miles out of 1 hot wax application. This is not necessary. Just trying to make money.
@@mugsy5974 not sure it’s about making money. Silca probably might make more money if you just hot wax, but I haven’t done the math to be honest.
@@mugsy5974 Zero Friction Cycling is showing really excellent results from Super Secret so it's not bogus
So, you have to go through the whole intense cleaning before the layering up method?
You may have answered this question, however, what is the shelf life of the liquid wax? For instance, if I purchase a bottle of the liquid wax and use it over a 5 year period, does the molecular structure begin to breakdown after a period of time? If so, what is the shelf life?
Hello hoping this query is answered.
First ride after first lube application, do you recommend a shorter km count, plus do you recommend a lighter load/less of a hard push as well? Keep the ride closer to cruising level?
Not needed, just be sure to top off each of the first few rides to get it as full as possible.
Does hot wax actually fill it 100%? Or will it drip out while it is still liquid once removed before it fully cools?
I hot waxed my chain an hour ago. So hot wax plus ss chain coating is 3% better than just ss chain coating, right? Does ss coating extend the time you need to rewax?
Tried the super secret lube on two different bikes recently and on both the first ride the chain was so loud it was embarrassing. I'll give it another try, I guess, but it would have been helpful if these instructions were on the box or the bottle.
Hey Josh what about about after washing you bike as I tend to do after almost every ride. I use car was soap and a brush. Noticing the chain gets a bit noisy if I don’t top off.
Definitely want to top off after cleaning the bike as well as after any rainy ride!
Good morning,
When cleaning the chain, by removing the used wax with boiling water, do I risk damaging the paint and the carbon wheels of my bike?
THANKS
Gerard
No, as long as you are pouring it onto the chain on the front of the chainring in the ~3-4 o'clock position, you will be fine, the water cannot remain hot for long enough to cause damage, and even the lowest grade resin systems used in carbon fiber bicycles and wheels have softening points beginning around ~240F and most high end frames are baked at 250-300F to cure the paint, so incidental boiling water contact will not be an issue. However, if you're really worried about it, just pull the chain and toss in a pot of boiling water, this method is more effective for cleaning and really takes no more time than the pour over method.
My old nano lube (guess brand) would pick up a lot of grime, and require degrease and reapply every 50-100 miles (2 rides). Dry roads but usual grit. From the videos and comments what is expected here with the drip on product? - just applied 3 coats
You should easily get 300km or so, but if the conditions are harsher it could be reduced. Wax will let you know audibly when it begins to break down, but it takes a while to really lose it's lubricating ability, so personally I just top off whenever I hear it sounding a bit 'tappy' which is generally 200-300km depending on how much dusty gravel I'm mixing into the riding. The only downside of adding it more frequently than necessary is that you can get a little buildup on the jockey wheels and you will have more flaking off which can be annoying if you're riding indoors.
Can we use the hot wax and ad some solvent and make our own drip on wax?
Yeah, but most solvents are nasty chemicals. Alcohol, acetone, paint thinners... And still, they either cannot dissolve as much of the wax and/or take a long time to cure (and smell awful).
this whole emulsion is running away from previously waxed chain. Show me how to apply it. Aslo my chain sound a bit a crickets after wax (new, cleaned chain) - not directly but I hear it when cycle next to some wall ...
If I have a Campy 12spd chain that is peined and have been using a drip chain oil, how do I strip the chain of the existing oil before using the Silca super secret?
If the chain is oil over top of factory grease, we'd recommend SILCA Chain Stripper: silca.cc/pages/ultimate-chain-stripper-and-wax-prep
If the chain was stripped prior to using oil, I'd use SILCA Brake and Drivetrain Cleaner:
silca.cc/collections/clean/products/ultimate-brake-and-drivetrain-cleaner
Do not recall if it was you or Travis, but I swear one of you said that when it is time to re-hot wax your chain, to just put the previously hot waxed chain back into the hot wax pot???
If it is very clean that works... if I've only done clean, dry, road rides, or the indoor trainer, then yes, just throw it back in the wax. But for anything else, you want to wash out the road grit and grime that get on the chain.. the wax does a great job of keeping grit and grime out, but it can still be on the outside and you don't want to then contaminate your wax with that stuff.
Hey Josh, I’m using the super secret on my gravel bike, but have yet to use it on my Mountain Bike. I ride mostly dry conditions in southwest Michigan and Northern Indiana. Needless to say we do get occasional pockets of mud. My question, Is the Super Secret ok to use on the MTB with the occasional mud pockets on my local trails? I’m currently using a another brand of wet lube for my MTB, and it’s about gone, so looking for a new lube program for the MTB
I’ve been running super secret on my mtb for over a year now (live in the same location as you + occasional Florida sand). Even with occasional mud and water crossings, haven’t had any issues. Drivetrain tends to stay perfectly clean even if the bike itself is quite dirty after a ride. The mud/water certainly seems to reduce the mileage on the super secret, but still lasts longer than anything else I’ve ever tried.
@@austinjacob99 thanks for the info Austin!
What intervals do you recommend for using Super Secret lube on a mountain bike where there is a lot of trail dust this time of year?
I've been using Super Secret lube here in central Oregon since 2020. Nothing works better, for as long as this does in the dry dust in my experience, not even hot waxing. I do a quick cold water rinse off my bike after every ride and then quick dry with soft towel and finally use an air compressor to blow out the brakes and drivetrain, spending a couple of minutes on the chain alone. Takes about 6 minutes after every ride. Doing this has allowed me to ride for 200-300 miles before the chain starts making noise or showing any sign of needing a degrease and re application of Super Secret lube. I gave up hot waxing, this works better and lasts longer here on strictly dusty MTB rides. BTW, I degrease every time in a cheap small jewelry ultrasonic cleaner filled with water, holding a large mason jar of mineral spirits. Then I wipe it with some paper towels and rinse in a mason jar of denatured alcohol. After wiping and drying from alcohol, I reinstall on the bike and apply the Super Secret to each link, rubbing with gloved fingers and work my way back to the quick link. I usually let it dry overnight, but have done it 30 min before a ride and it still performed for more than 100 miles of quiet!
My new chains been cleaned and applied SuperSecret lube. Here is my question. Does my chain has to be cleaned competely again if I were to use SuperSecret Hot Wax ?
Some say I will contaminate the wax if I don't wipe the drip wax before do hot wax... when they get mixed up... is it true?
I’ve done the whole process with the cleaning and waxing and first ride I got loads of little clumps on the chain, not sure if it was dried was or grease? Anyone else had this or is it normal? Thanks
Josh - I degrease my chain in a jar using Morgan Blue chain cleaner; wash it, and then pour acetone over it. After that I submerge it in Super Secret chain lube for a few mins, before taking it out and letting it dry overnight.
Despite that, I only seem to get one ride of about 80km before the chain sounds dry again, and I need to reapply using the dropper bottle. Once again, this only lasts about 40km in the dry before the chain sounds dry again.
What am I doing wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
Waxed chains do sound dryer than lubed chains. Your 80km is about the mark at which I start to notice mine. I still do 250 to 300km per wax bath. After 2500km, no chain stretch whatsoever
The more I think the more I love hot waxed chains
do we need to strip off the manufacturer lub when the chain is new? before apply?
Yes
Still can’t tell when exactly I need to pull the chain and rewax. Not sure if sound is the best way. Just mileage. Some combination. Hot wax sounds good to my ear for about 150 mi. Drip on sounds good to me for less than half that. Will have to try and layer.
Are you letting the wax cool some before pulling out?
@@johnkasza2315 definitely. Usually overnight at a minimum. Also notice that it works better in the summer vs the winter or cooler temperatures. Have used hair dryer some.
@@williamwallaceg2627 no, i meant before pulling the chain out of the pot, are you letting the wax cool down some..If you pull it out when very hot, some of the wax is running out of the crevices in chain and youre getting short durability
@@johnkasza2315 I’m totally letting it cool. Maybe overnight. It sits in the pot for 30+ minutes and I agitate it multiple times. I think my references were in miles and not kilometers. I’m definitely not going back to wet lives. NEVER EVER
Which Silca chain lube is recommended for chain longevity in wintery wet conditions?
Really depends on the level of maintenance you are after. A well maintained waxed chain will always be best in terms of friction and metal wear, but will require cleaning and waxing after each rain ride. Synergetic will get you much longer duration between applications, up to 1000km, but will experience more metal wear due to contamination.
@@SILCAVelo Thank you for taking the time to write such a well considered answer.
Hello Josh, i am using wax drip lube on my chain. For resetting the chain after 1000 KM of use, i found it much cleaner using bio degreaser instead of just hot water. However, the chain is more noisy now after re applying the lube again. Does it mean that resetting with hot water works better eventhough it looks not as clean ?
Yes, you just want to use water, the biodegreaser will not do a great job removing all of the old wax, but will do a good job of removing remaining TungstenDisulfide from the metal surface which is not what you want.
@@SILCAVelo thanks for the answer !! No bio degreaser from now on 👍
Can I use a hairdryer to dry the lube faster after applying it?
It can speed it up, but you have to be very careful, it's a fine line between accelerating the evaporation of the water-carrier in the lube, and warming the chain enough that the wax also melts and it all runs out! Putting the drivetrain in the sun on a warm day is a nice balance and will speed the drying time without any risk of overheating.
Is it possible to only use the super secret drip wax and apply it like a lube instead of deinstalling the chain?
Of course, this works great, just layer up and then re-appy every 250-300km!
Once the chain is waxed the drip lube doesn't work for me. It all just runs off. Even when I've done 3-400km post-wax and the chain is noisey. Drip mostly runs off and the chain is noisey again in 80km.
What the difference between the white bottle and the green bottles of super secret drip wax?
White bottles were all that were being made during covid due to bottle shortages around all of the hand sanitizer production. Green bottles have been the standard since 2022, but the product inside is the same.
One drop per link? I’d love to see someone pull that off without ending up with half a bottle on the floor. Love my Silca wax but it’s hard enough ti minimise wastage without slowing down to one drop per link.
they recommend opening the nozzle tip half way, I think this should control the flow and not make it run out as fast
Did not know about the boiling water technique to reset your chain for more wax. I called a few months ago and asked how to clean chain after waxing it and they said just put it back in the hot wax again.
Most people do just put it back in the wax after wiping away surface dirt, but if it's particularly dirty, just boil it!
Am I supposed to ever wipe the chain off in between rides ?
Totally up to you.. wiping it between rides will help keep it cleaner and reduce wear on your cassette and rings over time, but it's not necessary and the benefit is small. Just be sure to wipe before applying more drip wax so that the drip doesn't carry any surface dirt into the chain.
But will it last despite using bike cleaner (muc off as example)?
If you use SILCA cleaning products, you will be fine as they are specially formulated to NOT remove, dissolve, or soften wax.
I'm confused: at the end you refer to the water on a 'just cleaned' chain bubbling up through the wax. But we never heat the wax to above the boiling point of water, and the density of water is higher than the density of wax, so doesn't the water just sit at the bottom of the wax?
I think previous advice was to use isopropyl alcohol to drive out the water too prior to waxing so the chain is 100% dry prior to hot waxing?
@@morgan349 That's not what Josh says in the video. Wash with boiling water, shake it off, and drop it straight into the wax.
@@littlehilden5998 currently I use my ultrasonic cleaner to do this with 80c water/degreaser mix to clean the chain prior to the alcohol. Sounds like no prior cleaning is now reccomend?
@@littlehilden5998 And In previous instructions, Silca just says clean off the chain and drop in the wax, no need for the boiling water step. That the contamination is minimal.
Also, the other instructions I thought always referenced the same intervals numbers, but in miles. E.g. 200-250miles, not 200-250KM, with at rewax at like 1000miles, not 1000KM.
Which is it?
Same question. ZFC recommends drying the water off the chain first.
So does the wax need to be above 212 F so that the water will boil away? I thought the wax wasn't supposed to get that hot.
Most slow cookers heat to 200-212F on low and 275-300F on high so the water will boil off rather quickly even on the low setting, if you are using an InstantPot or dedicated wax melter with temperature control I'd run around 185-195 and the water will be gone in 5-10 minutes. You can actually see it boiling out as it makes little bubbles in the wax, once those stop, you are good to pull the chain.
@@SILCAVelo Still puzzled by this. 195F is ~91C, so the water can't be boiling, can it? At that temperature, water density is ~965kg/m3 and paraffin wax density is around ~800kg/m3. So the water should sink below the wax, not bubble to the surface But there are bubbles when I do as you suggest, so what's going on?
I don't find that just boiling water is enough. The chain eventually gets dirty so you need some solvent/degreaser to strip it totally clean. I normally hot wax then after some time i'll take the chain off and drop it into the super secret 12 Oz tub.
I agree with you in that boiling water isn't quite enough. But adding a spoonful of dish washing detergent and scrubbing fairly well gets the job done for me. No need for anything stronger, be it chemical or mechanical, to remove all of the dirt. The chain retains a decent film of clean wax and is ready for rewaxing when I do this.
Me as well, chain is dirty, or dark after 1 ride. I’ve been putting bio degreaser on a micro cloth until it disappears. The hot water treatment didn’t work for me.
In the graph that is shown at 0:37 it appears there is wax between the pin and the outer plates. If that were true, the chain would fall apart. 😄
It's a great product, but the hard plastic 120ml container makes it difficult to dispense the correct amount/ drop for each link. This often leads to wastage, which is expensive wastage. For the price, I would expect a correct dispenser bottle for more precise use.
If you leave the tip at a bit of an angle it will slow the flow by reducing the orifice area on the inside of the tip.
You recommend re-setting your chain by simply pouring boiling water over it, then immersing it in your hot-melt. I have done this but the wax bath soon (2 or 3 sessions) becomes dirty; and hence, contaminated. Boiling water does not appear to remove all contaminated wax from the chain. I have experimented with this and am currently rinsing the chain twice with boiling water, and then shaking it in a jar of Naptha for about 10minutes. The amount of crap this removes is staggering. It may well be that this is removing more wax than with just boiling water, but I reckon my chain is a lot cleaner; hence my wax bath is less contaminated. Any thoughts?
How bout rinsing it in hot water in the ultra sonic cleaner then putting it in the wax?
@@youme77324 Yep; great idea if you have an ultrasonic cleaner.
I have had success by adding a scrubbing with a rough sponge and dishwashing detergent step in between 2 boiling water rinses. Almost comparable to using strong degreasing agents such as naphta.
Regarding contaminated wax: once cool, you can remove the wax and scrape the bottom of the block to remove any visible contaminants that may have settled.
Is there any evidence/data to back up the 97% efficiency claim? This seems like a purely theoretical argument based on wax particle size in the lube.
Not 97% efficiency but 97% of negative space filled with wax. While there is no perfect way to measure this, what we do see is that longevity of the application goes us significantly with 2 or 3 layers compared to a single application. With single application getting noisy around 150km and 3 layer making it 300km or so before beginning to get noisy
What do I do with my hot waxed chain after a ride in the rain?
You can either wipe it down with MF cloth and then top it off with SuperSecret Drip, or reset it in boiling water, and then re-hot wax it.
@@SILCAVelo Thank you for responding. So far, I'm loving my Silca wax.
What happened to Super Secret in a tub?
The tub was discontinued after hot wax was launched as hot wax is both faster and longer lasting so we saw sales of the tub drop to near zero.
The biggest problem with this whole Silca wax business is getting my grubby paws in the stuff!! Stockists is so few and then they are always out of stock.
Where are you located? We can potentially help you find somebody!
@@SILCAVelo Thank you for the offer the help. I really appreciate it.👍
But getting hold of my favourite Silca Secret Blend Hot Melt Wax here in deepest, darkest, driest Southern Africa is a damn mission.
I still have some supply from what I managed to ship from the UK last time. But that supply avenue has sadly gone belly-up.
I am now trying to source from South Africa. But the stockists are dry. It's struggle.
Here I am, just slapping it on pre ride like an animal.
I tried it, it’s ok for dry rides. But for wet rides, sorry 😞 it comes off and I can hear the chain and feel the harsh chain shifting. So back to wet lube lasts longer and no rusting in the wet.
I ride in a place where it rains half the time, and never have any issues with waxed chains in the rain. Unless you are doing ultra distance rides over multiple days, or you’re not cleaning and re-hotwax/ drip wax after each extended rainy ride (which you should be doing with wet lubes anyway, unless it’s your beater winter bike that you’re not too worried about maintenance, drivetrain longevity and performance ). In fact wax just makes the process easier than degreasing wet lubes.
Tried it all the recommended ways and the same results, it will last 1 or 2 rides then I can feel the roughness in shifting gears. Think I might try out Snake oil 😂
if people were using a battery powered induction heater to hot waxing chain on bike, videos like this and similar ones would be unnecessary
4 layers and still a lot of noise.. 🙄🙄
Something else is wrong then.. it's should be nearlysilent for the first ride after 1 layer. I'd check derailleur adjustment and also if you've removed the chain, make sure that it's not routed overtop of a one of the derailleur cage tabs.. we see that very frequently, especially on the newer SRAM stuff where the upper cage tab isn't visible from the drive side of the bike when you re-install the chain.
@@SILCAVelo all is ok. Derailleur adjustment is ok. No rubbing. My last try may be soaking the chain on the wax.
The chain is well routed too.. The first 5 to 10km are silent, then, the loud noise comes..
there is no water. According to the MSDS this is a solvent based lube with wax added similar to other products. 70% solvent if that is the case not "water" wax is hydrophobic so water will not absorb into the wax. even the vegan wax. Second PFAS added to the wax are toxic to your body and the environment. this is the main issue here which is to introduce a carrier "wax" into a lubricant with high friction PTFE powder
Never heard so much OCD rantings over lubing a chain. The Silica guy must be laughing all the way to the bank. He is making huge amounts of money out of a bit of candle wax with a few other common anti friction powders thrown in.( there is nothing secret about it ). Been lubing chains for over 40 years using standard chain lubing techniques cheaply no probs.When I ride a bike for the hour record I might take a little more time lubing my chain, for everything else , on shitty rain swept roads i will use cheap well proven standard lubing methods. ( I have tried wax, dry, wet , etc but NOTHING lubes a chain better than OIL period. Quiet and smooth. )
Has he only just realised this? Otherwise, why would you wait until now to mention this method… unless you wanted people to use up their wax and by more suddenly…?
If you’re looking for a conspiracy, you’ll always find one. Josh is a very careful engineer. And your worry is odd. This “layering” doesn’t change anything about hot waxing your chain. Nothing. You won’t use any more melted wax. And if you don’t want to add drip-on wax, you’ll still be riding on a waxed chain that is superior and cleaner to one using petroleum products. You can hot wax that chain as often as you like. If you don’t want to buy Super Secret, don’t. And to clean a waxed chain, you have that very expensive boiled water cleaning solution-super-duper high cost for the water and heat!! 😅 So again, what’s your issue? Other than acting like you found something nefarious and want to attract the likes of other conspiracy-minded people?
Such a good point Andrew! Why now? Trying to pump up profits? Too much stock? Or has he only just realised this method recently??
@@user-uz5cp4pd9x Or none of the above? Or did he work on it and study it for long enough to be sure about it and let us know when it was well-proven? You know he works with pro teams, right? You know there are very accurate machines that can assess friction losses given different variables, right? You might look rather, well, ignorant if you just speculate about motives (called an ad hominem attack) and in fact are missing the results of careful experimentation. But imagining fraud is always something that gets clicks so speculate away. Josh’s record of innovation achieving marginal gains speaks rather more loudly than whoever you are and whatever you type for whatever reason. My two cents…
Their approach is an excellent example of 'continuous improvement' and makes no apologies for constantly reviewing products and methods to improve the performance and efficiency. This for me is at the heart of the scientific method and much preferable to the 'this is our original dogma and we're sticking to it in case we look weak' attitude that seems to pervade much of the current world (often in topics far more important than chain waxing).
No one is forcing you to buy it mate 😢😢
My chain doesn't even last long enough as it is to warrant hot wax. Too much power 🦵🏼
It will last significantly longer if you hot waxed the chain.
@@richardmarzec9136 does this affect the stress of the metal or tension from repeated 1000 watt sprinting intervals?
Hello I am just now getting into waxing my chains. I ride Road and mountain bike. I have just purchased your product. I have not received it yet but looking forward to it. do you recommend me buying new chains and waxing those or am I OK with taking my current chains and waxing them?