My very first time tig welding I spent hours watching videos and learning everything I could. I switched my machine around and made sure ever was perfect. I started my weld and my tungsten disappeared my cup melted and a blew a hole thru my metal and welded it to my table. All that cuz I forgot to turn my gas on 🤦♂️ 😂
I've done them all but not recently. Practice and hood time are super valuable. I've only gotten better by welding with my powertig as much as I can. Watching videos can only take you so far.
Very helpful, thanks. The polarity error at the start made me stop and double check, but actually this might be a good thing because it helped me reinforce the correct polarity order.
Excellent tips and info sir going back to school for all welding courses after being out of school for 5 years something I truly love and talk about every day we really appreciate these great pointers thank you sir!
I just started welding at a buddies house on another friends bumper he made, and this video helps a lot !All of us had had a few beers so I couldn't get a straight answer from them on what angles to hold the torch at , with these helpful tips my welds will go a lot smoother... since my welds looked just as good as their welds if not better, by the time I got to my 3rd 4" weld they said I was a natural... but I think they just wanted to be nice so I would do all the work and they could drink . Cheers and keep these videos rolling out
I'm with Ricardo Moreno, who said that Mr Tig "mispoke" at the begining. I'm sure he meant to say that he put the torch in the Positive (plus) socket, not the Minus socket.Because you need to DC tig weld with Electrode Negative.
I agree. The video shows torch on - and he says to put torch on +. I thought I've been doing it wrong but checked and I was ok. Moreover, my machine won't allow me to reverse the polarity because the torch lead has the argon pipe going out perpendicular to the lead and if I try to put it on + the argon pipe would crash with the control cable connector.
Yes he worded wrong. I was kinda questioning myself and how I set up my welder when I heard him say that lol. If you take a look at the welder he is in DCEP then it shows him removing torch from the red(+) port and putting it into the black(-) port.. so he has the correct polarity but gave a wrong explanation which hopefully people will catch on to before they start burning away their tungsten lol. But I do know of some Welders that are dedicated TIG welders that label the ports as red for torch and black for ground which you could mistake for straight polarity but is reversed to DCEN inside the unit somewhere.🤷🏽♂️
Mr. Tig, Learnt to stick weld at 13, from Grandfather. In later life, I learnt to do vertical ups and downs, overhead welding and Stainless Steel. Have done some Bronze welding and Oxy welding. I now have a Tig welder and nobody to learn from, so self taught. Watched this video yesterday and went out to the shed to make a special tool and decided to follow your teaching. Massive improvement in my welding, many thanks for great training videos.
I have been a welder most of my life Iam 60 now did some tig but most welds was stick I love to watch u weld I was a welder in a power plant I did a lot of mirror welding
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge, highly appreciated! Just started TIG wlding - have been soldering my hole life at electronics and dislike the splattering and fumes og MIG/MAG welding. Now I have to get rid of the grey colors that indicate too little gas or too much heat. If all under control. I will build my own movable racks for storing my batteries so I can roll them out of my house in case of misbehaviour.
Cup rolling is an advanced skill that was demonstrated on other videos. It isn't always possible to cup roll, but when it is, it is pretty nice to watch, and do.
Thanks for the vid it cleared up my problem experiencing porosity on weld termination as I was slowly lifting the torch on lift tig to keep gas coverage. I will try what Jodi said to do and trail off on a peice of copper at the end of the weld.
Not only is the polarity part of this video wrong,but on the torch angle portion, the big problem is melting off your filler wire so that it drops off before you're ready to add it. I wonder how long it's been since this guy welded in the field(if ever)
Here is an easy way to remember. TIG is done in straight polarity. Ok the negative is a minus sign "---- " basically a straight line. hook the TIG torch to the plug with the straight line. Helped peapol that I have taught to remember.
ugh.. I bought one of those Chinese 3 in one machines to learn how to tig.. I made all these mistakes!!! and just now found out about using the correct gas! thank you for your videos. maybe one day i will grab the tig instead of the mig to do a job.. some day :-)
Great Video. Can you do a top five mistakes with gas lens use and electrode stick out? I don't know what form that takes and should be interesting! Thank you for all your videos!
At the start of the video, he incorrectly stated which side to plug the torch into, but he did plug it in correctly (1:56) when demonstrating. For TIG, the torch goes into the Negative side. At least it does on my Everlast 315LX.
Some machines you can switch the polarity from the panel so you would put the ground in the negative and torch in the positive. Again that’s if you can switch polarity from the panel such as on the Miller Dynasty series. My Miller Maxstar 200DX doesn’t have that feature so I must switch the leads as you stated, torch negative and ground positive.
Tip number 5 was SUPER helpful. Welding certainly isn’t my trade so I have no training or schooling in it. I had no idea that the longer the ark the more volts required.
Although I appreciate these useful videos, I am often confused by the way electrode polarity is explained on this channel. DCEN means the electrode is negative, the normal approach for most TIG welding. Why is it so difficult to explain?
Thank you! Totally agree I was saying in my head "well if the tungsten tip dissipates that means he accidentally had it on DC positive" but then he said he had it in DC minus... I'm like well you are wrong buddy lol.
Ground = Negative* = the thing you hold in ur hand Positive = the big clamp *That holds true in all of electronics. At some point u will see there are "minute" differences in grounds (like analog ground vs digital ground) and there meight be a negative rail too. But 95% or more its just ground.
Hi Spelunkard hope this helps...normaly 70 % of heat is carried on the Positive side (30% to Tungsten (Negative pole) in normal DCEN) so with DCEP (Reverse polarity) instead of the work piece being heated up the Tungsten (Positive) is burnt away to a ball point..Took me a while to get too..good luck with your Welding.
The way I remember this. Straight polarity the neg is a straight line. To weld in straight polarity hook your tig torch or stinger to the negative or straight line on the machine
It is a work clamp not a ground clamp. Ground is always thought of as negative so in DCEN welding the work clamp is positive. It is not a ground clamp. It is a work clamp. Small detail but important to help keep nomenclature understood.
If you have an Everlast multiprocess 206 welder the only time the ground goes into the negitive terminal (labeled TORCH) is when you are stick welding.For Tig and Plasma the ground goes into the positive or WORKPIECE labeled terminal.
So, I was welding 4130 chromoly and had the ground directly to the work, however I didn't realize that the inner shaft had poly bushings and my ground was on the outer shaft surface. Long story, short! As it goes, it found the path-of-least resistance, which happened to be a stainless braided line and it melted the inner core and torched the stainless. The question that I have is, do you think the damage stopped there? The line was connected to a turbo, the concern is damaged bearings and seals etc. TIA
You cant have fun at work anymore. They fire you for all sorts of little things like firecrackers in welding nozzles, O/A garbage bags exploding behind people welding, lighting the guys pant leg on fire while his hood is down, welding his wrench down to a table, ect..
Mr. TIG whoa... hold up! Mistake 1 is wrong! Either your power supply has mis-labeled terminals, was assembled wrong at the factory or it has a built-in REVERSE POLARITY switch or control that has accidentally been thrown. DC TIG welding is always done DCEN (electrode negative) or Straight Polarity. This is right out of any welding or AWS textbook.Sorry to dump on one of your otherwise always interesting videos, but you command a great deal of respect; viewers take what you say as gospel will be mislead.
Are you saying that the torch is supposed to be plugged into the "+"? Because it sounded like you were saying that you had the issue with the tungsten balling up when you plugged the torch into "-," but then you fixed it it by plugging it into "-".
" Because it sounded like you were saying that you had the issue with the tungsten balling up when you plugged the torch into "-," but then you fixed it it by plugging it into "-"." That sure would be pretty confusing.
People will learn they’re own tips and little tricks but I choose to listen to the old schoolers and do it their way because it works then from there I can capitalize and make my own little fine adjustments to things
Hi. Since I changed my Tig welder to a cheap Chinese one I have a similar issue that looks like #3 Wrong Gas. I'm doing fusion welding on 0.8mm (0.032 inch) mild steel and I have a similar issue on the first 3-4 seconds of welding. After the first few seconds, the arc stabilize and the rest of the weld is pretty and as expected. It only does it each time I start an arc... I've changed settings from 18 up to 25Amps, it only gets worse on higher amps. Argon flow is at 6 L/M (12 CFH). Higher argon flow make things worse. I've changed the argon bottle and the problem remains but I have picked up these two argon bottles simultaneously and the bunch might be contaminated. Greetings from the weary Greece.
You have a leak in your shielding gas supply and it is sucking small amounts of ambient air in the shielding gas ..... The leak can be in or at the regulator, in the gas hose from the regulator to the machine (or those connections) it can also be inside the machine ( the hose in the machine or the valve or internal connections ) or it can be the welding gun ..... I would suggest either switching parts with a friend, one by one and figure out where the problem is
+schneetiger77 many thanks. I'm not sure how to do the smoke test but everything you said sounds reasonable and this might be my actual issue. It only does it for the first 3-4 seconds though... I will start checking right from the solenoid in the machine up to the tig torch end. By the way, this issue doesn't happen if I use filler rod. It's a very bizarre issue but what you can expect if you have a financial issue and you keep buying crap machines that don't do the job... it's a false economy in the end. Regards Nick
Adjust your pre flow up .... That will help .... As far as smoke test, take the consumables off the torch and blow some cigarette smoke back into the torch, if it comes out at a leak you will see it. If it only does it on startup the problem is either in the machine or the torch, not in the regulator or the line going to it ... Good luck
I'm very new at tig welding - you mentioned that in tip #5 you were welding at about 5 amps - please clarity - Lincoln tig amp values has 24 ga at 25-35 amps and 3/16" at 130-160 -
On Tv you see a lot of bike builders use TIG when prefabbing a frame or building a custom gas tank. And the welds look amazing. My question is what is better MIG or TIG in this particular application. Which would create less heat warping on sheet metal . And welding tubing of varying thickness which would give you better penetration?
great video wyatt and thank you for sharing. these points are always good to remember as sometimes like you said you get tired and start wandering off. one of the skills i have to improve is electrode distance and i was wondering, since i practice generally 1 hour after the workday is over, if putting a voltmeter in the torch lead would give the readout of the voltage i`m using. that would help me and piss my wife since she`d be the spotter haha. regards. happy holidays. pete
I checked the polarity on my Lincoln Invertec vt 205T AC\DC tig set and it was plus earth as stock I thought sometimes things get messed up so I tried to reverse the polarity... DONT DO IT ON A LINCOLN SET, I received a electric static flash back from the rod, I checked for other ways leakage could occur tried it again and it repeated the flash onto the filler rod, I reversed the polarity and it worked ok, the tungsten still balled up on the end, as I normally weld alloy and very little steel. my main problem was as I am self taught in welding I have quite a few welder pals who all have given advice on how to weld correctly. most guys who weld in their home time and are not used to welding can be very good on steel and brazing, that welding on cast you did with the EZ rods I used them to repair a pipe bender former that we split bending squared section on a round former, the weld from the EZ rods was brilliant, I welded it from cold and set the machine up for stainless steel and I had acceptable weld sa the filler rod flowed easily into the recess we made for the weld, we have used that former for over 2000 bends now and there is no trace of any distortion on the weld. I did find on returning to my Alloy welding that I could never get an acceptable tungsten after welding with the Lincoln, until I downloaded a app to help the setting up of the machine I downloaded the Lincoln app, all I can say a waste of space on the mobile fone, then I downloaded another app and I cannot think of its name it may have been Miller, but it gave the options of what you were welding the metal thickness, the type of weld and the gas pressure tungsten size and gas flow and suggested amperage to start, the Amp setting were nearly all plus 50 ontop of what I was told to use, however testing the settings out I discovered a whole new way of setting up the set, I dropped the amps down a bit when welding he aluminium and found it was a lot easier to start the welding that I had found before, I found the main trouble I had was the clearing through oxidation of the alloy on the surface, my main repair is car and motorcycle alloy wheels and engine cases. I now find that I have no more problem in the weld that I attempt only to see the cringe on fellow friends when they hear the Tig set startup and see the amps indicator.I enjoy you welding videos and often try to duplicate you tests, however I find time is of the essence and work has to be completed quickly and specialised welders are now few and far between, the result of shutting down ship yards and aircraft manufacturing plantsthe loss is now becoming apparent. I have had a term for many years now not all doctors mechanics welder and pilots are NOT equal. they may think they are. and if in doubt try you may be successful and it works. Have fun Roy I am in my 70th year and still have no plans to retire.
Mr.Tig was probably involuntary mistaken in the speech, but in facts he started with torch in positive (red conection of the machine) and switched to negative (black conection)
DC TIG Welding is carried out with the torch negative and the work positive. That is DC EN or straight polarity. So the first 2 minutes of video are completely wrong.
+Ricardo Moreno Electrode negative- yes the torch is the cathode for those ambitious electrons: -"A conventional current describes the direction in which positive electronic charges move."
+Ricardo Moreno You are correct, but on a tig specific machine the connections at the machine are strangely marked negative for ground and the torch/gas/water out/water in leads aren't polarity marked! When I first went out in the field (from being in shop all of the time) many decades ago, I was trying to weld a 2 1/2 inch s.s. coupling into a hole bored to size through a 20 inch steel blind flange. I had my tig torch hooked up, my 1/8" 309 s.s. fill wire, and I started to ( I thought!) weld it up. However it was on a Saturday and myself and the security guard were the only people on site. I had trouble and put everything up till Monday and went back to the hotel. Imagine how stupid I felt on Monday when the welders explained to me that I had the leads backwards!!! : (' Put it right, tacked up, and put down a beautiful cupwalk root and cover.....: )'
+timm white I can weld with my machine on+ 50 amps max. for aluminium, it's not preferable but can be done ..spec are from selco genesis tlh 250 .already 22 yrs old close to almost good as an lincoln welding diesel with tiger tig setup . with those diesels root pass just flying in..no effort at all...goedendag
Excellent! I'd always heard that practice makes perfect, which is true, but some of the best instruction I've ever received was while watching 'over the shoulder' as a really good welder was working. TH-cam (now that the photography folks have figured out how to filter the light to camera so you can actually see what's going on) is a lot like that...I love it! I had a friend, coworker, and student from Mexico doing overhead aluminum tig butt welds in about 45 minutes using TH-cam and the lab both....
Mr. Tig is letting us guys know that if you do that is wrong and if you this is right. Thanks for staring Aloha. One question, what happen if the tip of the torch touch were you weld or the stick?
Gary B I like the comment s on gas flow I have never pushed much more then 30 But that is going thru a big gas lens & I pulse a lot of the time on a Miller Dynasty
Though Mr. Tig's attempt to verbally communicate the proper polarity setup was confusing, if you look at the intial setup the torch is connected to the red/positive connection (DCEP) which caused the electrode to melt. You will notice that he corrects the polarity problem at 2:02 in the video by plugging the torch into the black/negative connection (DCEN). This video is an example of the old adage that a picture is worth a thousand words.
Sometimes we substituted the Tungsten on a buddy's machine with a dressed piece of magnesium bearing aluminum tig rod, dirtied it up a bit to look similar..... poof, electrode gone. Puzzled looks everywhere, poor guy would be wondering what the heck just went on..... only use on old collets and such though.
Could you talk about the fog when you weld stainlessteel. what happen with your heald. i mean the importance to use vacum to reduce metal gases when the weld is on..
If you have a machine that you can change the polarity from the panel that is correct but if you can’t change the polarity from the panel such as my Miller Maxstar 200DX you must switch the ground and the torch so the ground would be in the positive and torch in the negative for tig welding . For stick welding put the ground in the negative and stinger in the positive. Again, this is if your machine can’t switch polarity from the panel like a lot of machines out in the field.
If you run C25 with ER70 S6? ;) I learned vertical down on 18 gauge steel running 0.040" thoriated tungsten at 45 amps and 0.023" S6 filler. It did fine using 10-12 cfh Ar and a 6 nozzle. Arc about half a dime thickness.
Often I see a kind of halo of rusty soot forming around the edges of my weld. Usually I czn just brush that off, but sometimes it actually leaves a porous rusty color embedded in the surface of the steel. This embedded that can't be removed with my welding brush. I found that more gas (20 cfh instead of 15) helps, a shorter arc helps, a vertical angle helps, and using lower current helps.
Poor shielding can result in what you had. sometimes poor argon coverage can be from your torch not distributing the argon evenly. You can try using a gas lens (I bought a set soon after buying my first everlast tig welder) or if you want to go inexpensive try a bit of scotch brite in the cup to help even out the flow. Jody has a few welding videos about argon coverage.
Thank you. I do sometimes use a gas lens and I think it helps. I also recently increased my gas flow from about 15 cfh to about 20 cfh, which definitely helped a lot. Now I only see the rusty color once in a while. I also started using stainless filler on mild steel and I'm getting much better-looking welds, with no porosity.
The first tip is backwards... he started with the ground in minus and the torch in plus. When he switched it, torch in minus, clamp in plus his tungsten stopped burning up. As I understand it, this is how it should be, electrode negative. Why does his tip go contrary to the example? He tells you to plug the clamp into the negative. Are other machines marked stupidly?
Ernesto Castellanos ok, well I knew mig and stick you could do either dcen or dcep depending on rod for the stick or if your running Flux core on the mig, jut wasn't sure about tig
atsernov and Hunter: Yes I agree, clamp (job) is connected to positive for straight polarity welding. Opposite to a cars electrical system, so Im not sure why they call it 'straight polarity'.
Pretty good video. You’re clearly a better welder than I am. The last thing I want to be here is critical. Doing training vids like this is sticking your neck out, and I commend you for that. One minor terminology thing here though. I was an AWS/CWI for a little while. According to the training I got (it’s been a long time) the lead you call and most welders call the ground is the work lead as I recall. Terminology is everything. See the Lincoln, Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding and the AWS, WIT Book.
I was wondering why my welding suck so much. I had nearly every mistake in this video. Too much angle, maybe inverted torch and ground (have to check i'm not sure but that's a probability), and too high cfh. Trying to weld 0.8mm sheet metal like that, now i know :D A question i have is, when you are doing rust repair on an old car, what is your best advice to go for it, beceause sometimes you have to weld nearly upside down, it's really hard to be stable, and sometimes it's nearly impossible to clean out all the paint / surface rust to have a clean material. The other guy doing this next to me with his mig has no problem, even when he's welding trough paint his welds come out good, but i struggle so much with tig even on clean metal, at 30 amps i burn trough, or if i go down to 15-20Amps, it seems like it won't really weld, i struggle to have the puddle melting to the both parts of the sheet metal, or the fact to weld to a vertical part gives me a hard time to have the filler material dropping at the right place, and so on.
Most of the objections on this thread amount to nothing. A professional welder would just swap the leads around if he accidentally had them in reverse and start welding. I've been tig welding for decades and couldn't tell you which terminal the welding lead goes into. Just do like the instructor says - reverse them if you find them attached incorrectly.
Right..I didn't use my tig for years because of this problem! a professional should/would know this info(everyone I talked to said - for ground + goes to tourch (not mine)) . for a beginner this information could be worth the price of a tig machine :-)
Nice video. Interesting thing.. I have purchased an AC machine and a 10 liter bottle of "100% argon" and started the learning process. I got reasonably good with iron in couple of hours, however I do get quite a lot of sparks and brown deposit around my welds. The sparks contaminate my tungsten quickly. The surfaces are not rusted and wire-brushed, are reasonably clean. Is there a problem with my gas?
+circuitdotlt Tough to say exactly what the problem is without seeing some pictures of the weld. It could potentially be a gas issue... Post some pictures on the forum and we can hopefully better diagnose the issue: www.weld.com/index.php/log-in-to-weekend-warriors/categories
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My very first time tig welding I spent hours watching videos and learning everything I could. I switched my machine around and made sure ever was perfect. I started my weld and my tungsten disappeared my cup melted and a blew a hole thru my metal and welded it to my table. All that cuz I forgot to turn my gas on 🤦♂️ 😂
Lol
I've done them all but not recently. Practice and hood time are super valuable. I've only gotten better by welding with my powertig as much as I can. Watching videos can only take you so far.
Very helpful, thanks. The polarity error at the start made me stop and double check, but actually this might be a good thing because it helped me reinforce the correct polarity order.
Excellent tips and info sir going back to school for all welding courses after being out of school for 5 years something I truly love and talk about every day we really appreciate these great pointers thank you sir!
I just started welding at a buddies house on another friends bumper he made, and this video helps a lot !All of us had had a few beers so I couldn't get a straight answer from them on what angles to hold the torch at , with these helpful tips my welds will go a lot smoother... since my welds looked just as good as their welds if not better, by the time I got to my 3rd 4" weld they said I was a natural... but I think they just wanted to be nice so I would do all the work and they could drink . Cheers and keep these videos rolling out
I'm with Ricardo Moreno, who said that Mr Tig "mispoke" at the begining. I'm sure he meant to say that he put the torch in the Positive (plus) socket, not the Minus socket.Because you need to DC tig weld with Electrode Negative.
I agree. The video shows torch on - and he says to put torch on +. I thought I've been doing it wrong but checked and I was ok. Moreover, my machine won't allow me to reverse the polarity because the torch lead has the argon pipe going out perpendicular to the lead and if I try to put it on + the argon pipe would crash with the control cable connector.
You said it backwards too! Torch goes into NEGATIVE port.
Yes he worded wrong. I was kinda questioning myself and how I set up my welder when I heard him say that lol.
If you take a look at the welder he is in DCEP then it shows him removing torch from the red(+) port and putting it into the black(-) port.. so he has the correct polarity but gave a wrong explanation which hopefully people will catch on to before they start burning away their tungsten lol.
But I do know of some Welders that are dedicated TIG welders that label the ports as red for torch and black for ground which you could mistake for straight polarity but is reversed to DCEN inside the unit somewhere.🤷🏽♂️
Thank you again. The tip about breaking off the end of a contaminated electrode solved the issue I was having. You guys are great.
Mr. Tig, Learnt to stick weld at 13, from Grandfather. In later life, I learnt to do vertical ups and downs, overhead welding and Stainless Steel. Have done some Bronze welding and Oxy welding. I now have a Tig welder and nobody to learn from, so self taught. Watched this video yesterday and went out to the shed to make a special tool and decided to follow your teaching. Massive improvement in my welding, many thanks for great training videos.
Keith P. from Australia Buy a TIG welding book or a "Modern Welding" book.
I have been a welder most of my life Iam 60 now did some tig but most welds was stick I love to watch u weld I was a welder in a power plant I did a lot of mirror welding
Respect.
John Gibbs cool what type of wire or electrode did use to weld the mirrors I know 7016 has a glass like flux. i guess it's a new funky type 🤔😋
Just started Tig today and it was already blowing me 😩😂 I’ll get it though 👌🏾
Its a process that takes some time to get the hang of! But youll get it maam! Goodluck!
And? Did you get it in the end?
Love Weld.com and Mr. Tig. This is probably one of the best freely available welding shows online. Thanks for this guys over at Weld.com
+JohnLothe Happy to do it. Thanks for watching.
Many thanks for sharing your knowledge, highly appreciated! Just started TIG wlding - have been soldering my hole life at electronics and dislike the splattering and fumes og MIG/MAG welding.
Now I have to get rid of the grey colors that indicate too little gas or too much heat.
If all under control. I will build my own movable racks for storing my batteries so I can roll them out of my house in case of misbehaviour.
These tips are very helpful. The demonstrations make it all clear.
Cup rolling is an advanced skill that was demonstrated on other videos. It isn't always possible to cup roll, but when it is, it is pretty nice to watch, and do.
Thanks for the vid it cleared up my problem experiencing porosity on weld termination as I was slowly lifting the torch on lift tig to keep gas coverage. I will try what Jodi said to do and trail off on a peice of copper at the end of the weld.
Hey Mr. Tig, you have good info about tig welding tips for first time like me. Thks
Not only is the polarity part of this video wrong,but on the torch angle portion, the big problem is melting off your filler wire so that it drops off before you're ready to add it. I wonder how long it's been since this guy welded in the field(if ever)
Here is an easy way to remember. TIG is done in straight polarity. Ok the negative is a minus sign "---- " basically a straight line. hook the TIG torch to the plug with the straight line. Helped peapol that I have taught to remember.
Super filmik !! facet mówi bardzo powoli i wyraźnie , bardzo przyjemnie się go słucha.
An excellent educator
ugh.. I bought one of those Chinese 3 in one machines to learn how to tig.. I made all these mistakes!!! and just now found out about using the correct gas! thank you for your videos. maybe one day i will grab the tig instead of the mig to do a job.. some day :-)
Great Video. Can you do a top five mistakes with gas lens use and electrode stick out? I don't know what form that takes and should be interesting! Thank you for all your videos!
Excellent video taking on the common and basic issues. Very much appreciated and great edification. Thank You.
At the start of the video, he incorrectly stated which side to plug the torch into, but he did plug it in correctly (1:56) when demonstrating. For TIG, the torch goes into the Negative side. At least it does on my Everlast 315LX.
It does on pretty much all tig except aluminum which is welded with ac current
matthew morin unless you are welding aluminum with DC and helium...
Some machines you can switch the polarity from the panel so you would put the ground in the negative and torch in the positive. Again that’s if you can switch polarity from the panel such as on the Miller Dynasty series. My Miller Maxstar 200DX doesn’t have that feature so I must switch the leads as you stated, torch negative and ground positive.
great video...your bad welds are still better than my best ones !! Thanks !
Just doing college course tig thanks for the tips
Thanks for all of your videos. Much appreciated by TIG noobs like me.
Tigging a root
Tip number 5 was SUPER helpful. Welding certainly isn’t my trade so I have no training or schooling in it. I had no idea that the longer the ark the more volts required.
🤔
Physics... Spark gap.
Great Video! Explantion in detail. It is perfect for beginners.
Thanks for your videos..i like all the information you give.
Thanks so much for doing these videos and sharing your knowledge with us.
Nice arc shot I could see the plasma around the arc
Great job
Although I appreciate these useful videos, I am often confused by the way electrode polarity is explained on this channel. DCEN means the electrode is negative, the normal approach for most TIG welding. Why is it so difficult to explain?
Thank you! Totally agree I was saying in my head "well if the tungsten tip dissipates that means he accidentally had it on DC positive" but then he said he had it in DC minus... I'm like well you are wrong buddy lol.
Ground = Negative* = the thing you hold in ur hand
Positive = the big clamp
*That holds true in all of electronics. At some point u will see there are "minute" differences in grounds (like analog ground vs digital ground) and there meight be a negative rail too. But 95% or more its just ground.
Hi Spelunkard hope this helps...normaly 70 % of heat is carried on the Positive side (30% to Tungsten (Negative pole) in normal DCEN) so with DCEP (Reverse polarity) instead of the work piece being heated up the Tungsten (Positive) is burnt away to a ball point..Took me a while to get too..good luck with your Welding.
The way I remember this. Straight polarity the neg is a straight line. To weld in straight polarity hook your tig torch or stinger to the negative or straight line on the machine
It's because you hook the machine up normally but when you set the machine on tig it reverses the polarity
It is a work clamp not a ground clamp. Ground is always thought of as negative so in DCEN welding the work clamp is positive. It is not a ground clamp. It is a work clamp. Small detail but important to help keep nomenclature understood.
I like the way you clarify this common verbiage just creates more confusion.
when I first got my Everlast welder I made all of those mistakes! Much better now.
Thank you very much!!! Started tonight trying to learn and it came out horrible.
If you have an Everlast multiprocess 206 welder the only time the ground goes into the negitive terminal (labeled TORCH) is when you are stick welding.For Tig and Plasma the ground goes into the positive or WORKPIECE labeled terminal.
Thanks again good information reminder awesome video like always 👍👍👍👍
Very good information/instruction.
Great Tips. I really get a lot from this channel. Thank you.
Excellent video!
im happy like you if some one say this machine is good to learn
Wow guys, you found the sweet spot here. Great video!!
Great video I learned something new today
Normally i wouldn't disagree with mr tig but im pretty sure my tig welder is in dcen and it welds beautifully...
"And other people weld like shit, but they have higher distortion." "Woah, we gotta edit that out!"
my best comment is bravo and thank you very much. very useful
ඒක පට්ටනේ කලින් දැනන් හිටියේ නැනේ මෙච්චර එකක්.
Nice Video guys , merry Christmas and happy New Year to you all. Stay safe.
Cheers From Australia
Good stuff..... thanks for posting these videos.... very helpful!
I can feel myself getting better with my powertig welder already.
Well presented, very informative and to the point with nice close up shots! Happy New Year. Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
So, I was welding 4130 chromoly and had the ground directly to the work, however I didn't realize that the inner shaft had poly bushings and my ground was on the outer shaft surface. Long story, short! As it goes, it found the path-of-least resistance, which happened to be a stainless braided line and it melted the inner core and torched the stainless.
The question that I have is, do you think the damage stopped there? The line was connected to a turbo, the concern is damaged bearings and seals etc.
TIA
THANK YOU MR.TIG .I'M A MASTER !TO SEND MORE INFO WHEN YOU CAN.
#1 CFH too high
#2 wrong size filler
#3 weld speed
#4 inter-pass cleaning
#5 drunk
+brainfarth We'de love to show the affects of the various mistakes, but I think the safety nazis would come after us if we tried to demonstrate #5...
You cant have fun at work anymore. They fire you for all sorts of little things like firecrackers in welding nozzles, O/A garbage bags exploding behind people welding, lighting the guys pant leg on fire while his hood is down, welding his wrench down to a table, ect..
brainfarth that would be fun! Especially #5
safety nazis......... funny funny
I actually weld better with a half to 1 beer buzz. Then it goes downhill pretty quick. Apparently tungsten stick welding isn't a thing....who knew?
Mr. TIG whoa... hold up! Mistake 1 is wrong! Either your power supply has mis-labeled terminals, was assembled wrong at the factory or it has a built-in REVERSE POLARITY switch or control that has accidentally been thrown. DC TIG welding is always done DCEN (electrode negative) or Straight Polarity. This is right out of any welding or AWS textbook.Sorry to dump on one of your otherwise always interesting videos, but you command a great deal of respect; viewers take what you say as gospel will be mislead.
John P. Callan simple mistake lol
Are you saying that the torch is supposed to be plugged into the "+"? Because it sounded like you were saying that you had the issue with the tungsten balling up when you plugged the torch into "-," but then you fixed it it by plugging it into "-".
" Because it sounded like you were saying that you had the issue with the tungsten balling up when you plugged the torch into "-," but then you fixed it it by plugging it into "-"."
That sure would be pretty confusing.
People will learn they’re own tips and little tricks but I choose to listen to the old schoolers and do it their way because it works then from there I can capitalize and make my own little fine adjustments to things
Hi.
Since I changed my Tig welder to a cheap Chinese one I have a similar issue that looks like #3 Wrong Gas.
I'm doing fusion welding on 0.8mm (0.032 inch) mild steel and I have a similar issue on the first 3-4 seconds of welding. After the first few seconds, the arc stabilize and the rest of the weld is pretty and as expected. It only does it each time I start an arc...
I've changed settings from 18 up to 25Amps, it only gets worse on higher amps. Argon flow is at 6 L/M (12 CFH). Higher argon flow make things worse. I've changed the argon bottle and the problem remains but I have picked up these two argon bottles simultaneously and the bunch might be contaminated.
Greetings from the weary Greece.
I meant to say that my issue is like mistake #3, there are sparks and metal seems like it's bubbling.
You have a leak in your shielding gas supply and it is sucking small amounts of ambient air in the shielding gas ..... The leak can be in or at the regulator, in the gas hose from the regulator to the machine (or those connections) it can also be inside the machine ( the hose in the machine or the valve or internal connections ) or it can be the welding gun ..... I would suggest either switching parts with a friend, one by one and figure out where the problem is
Or smoke test every part of the system .... Where the smoke escapes is your leak ...
+schneetiger77 many thanks. I'm not sure how to do the smoke test but everything you said sounds reasonable and this might be my actual issue. It only does it for the first 3-4 seconds though... I will start checking right from the solenoid in the machine up to the tig torch end.
By the way, this issue doesn't happen if I use filler rod. It's a very bizarre issue but what you can expect if you have a financial issue and you keep buying crap machines that don't do the job... it's a false economy in the end.
Regards
Nick
Adjust your pre flow up .... That will help .... As far as smoke test, take the consumables off the torch and blow some cigarette smoke back into the torch, if it comes out at a leak you will see it. If it only does it on startup the problem is either in the machine or the torch, not in the regulator or the line going to it ... Good luck
Am really appreciate ur effort
I'm very new at tig welding - you mentioned that in tip #5 you were welding at about 5 amps - please clarity - Lincoln tig amp values has 24 ga at 25-35 amps and 3/16" at 130-160 -
On Tv you see a lot of bike builders use TIG when prefabbing a frame or building a custom gas tank. And the welds look amazing. My question is what is better MIG or TIG in this particular application. Which would create less heat warping on sheet metal . And welding tubing of varying thickness which would give you better penetration?
For building motorcycle frames, TIG is preferred.
Ive watched this video like 3-4 times, and just realized that my dumbass had my torch and ground polarity backward....
Thanks Mr TIG
great video wyatt and thank you for sharing. these points are always good to remember as sometimes like you said you get tired and start wandering off. one of the skills i have to improve is electrode distance and i was wondering, since i practice generally 1 hour after the workday is over, if putting a voltmeter in the torch lead would give the readout of the voltage i`m using. that would help me and piss my wife since she`d be the spotter haha. regards. happy holidays. pete
If you have high-frequency start turned on, which is carefully designed to start electrical arcing, seems like you would blow up the meter.
I checked the polarity on my Lincoln Invertec vt 205T AC\DC tig set and it was plus earth as stock I thought sometimes things get messed up so I tried to reverse the polarity... DONT DO IT ON A LINCOLN SET, I received a electric static flash back from the rod, I checked for other ways leakage could occur tried it again and it repeated the flash onto the filler rod, I reversed the polarity and it worked ok, the tungsten still balled up on the end, as I normally weld alloy and very little steel. my main problem was as I am self taught in welding I have quite a few welder pals who all have given advice on how to weld correctly. most guys who weld in their home time and are not used to welding can be very good on steel and brazing, that welding on cast you did with the EZ rods I used them to repair a pipe bender former that we split bending squared section on a round former, the weld from the EZ rods was brilliant, I welded it from cold and set the machine up for stainless steel and I had acceptable weld sa the filler rod flowed easily into the recess we made for the weld, we have used that former for over 2000 bends now and there is no trace of any distortion on the weld. I did find on returning to my Alloy welding that I could never get an acceptable tungsten after welding with the Lincoln, until I downloaded a app to help the setting up of the machine I downloaded the Lincoln app, all I can say a waste of space on the mobile fone, then I downloaded another app and I cannot think of its name it may have been Miller, but it gave the options of what you were welding the metal thickness, the type of weld and the gas pressure tungsten size and gas flow and suggested amperage to start, the Amp setting were nearly all plus 50 ontop of what I was told to use, however testing the settings out I discovered a whole new way of setting up the set, I dropped the amps down a bit when welding he aluminium and found it was a lot easier to start the welding that I had found before, I found the main trouble I had was the clearing through oxidation of the alloy on the surface, my main repair is car and motorcycle alloy wheels and engine cases. I now find that I have no more problem in the weld that I attempt only to see the cringe on fellow friends when they hear the Tig set startup and see the amps indicator.I enjoy you welding videos and often try to duplicate you tests, however I find time is of the essence and work has to be completed quickly and specialised welders are now few and far between, the result of shutting down ship yards and aircraft manufacturing plantsthe loss is now becoming apparent. I have had a term for many years now not all doctors mechanics welder and pilots are NOT equal. they may think they are. and if in doubt try you may be successful and it works. Have fun Roy I am in my 70th year and still have no plans to retire.
Mr.Tig was probably involuntary mistaken in the speech, but in facts he started with torch in positive (red conection of the machine) and switched to negative (black conection)
DC TIG Welding is carried out with the torch negative and the work positive. That is DC EN or straight polarity. So the first 2 minutes of video are completely wrong.
+Ricardo Moreno Electrode negative- yes the torch is the cathode for those ambitious electrons:
-"A conventional current describes the direction in which positive electronic charges move."
+Ricardo Moreno You are correct, but on a tig specific machine the connections at the machine are strangely marked negative for ground and the torch/gas/water out/water in leads aren't polarity marked! When I first went out in the field (from being in shop all of the time) many decades ago, I was trying to weld a 2 1/2 inch s.s. coupling into a hole bored to size through a 20 inch steel blind flange. I had my tig torch hooked up, my 1/8" 309 s.s. fill wire, and I started to ( I thought!) weld it up. However it was on a Saturday and myself and the security guard were the only people on site. I had trouble and put everything up till Monday and went back to the hotel. Imagine how stupid I felt on Monday when the welders explained to me that I had the leads backwards!!! : (' Put it right, tacked up, and put down a beautiful cupwalk root and cover.....: )'
+timm white I can weld with my machine on+ 50 amps max. for aluminium, it's not preferable but can be done ..spec are from selco genesis tlh 250 .already 22 yrs old close to almost good as an lincoln welding diesel with tiger tig setup . with those diesels root pass just flying in..no effort at all...goedendag
Excellent! I'd always heard that practice makes perfect, which is true, but some of the best instruction I've ever received was while watching 'over the shoulder' as a really good welder was working. TH-cam (now that the photography folks have figured out how to filter the light to camera so you can actually see what's going on) is a lot like that...I love it! I had a friend, coworker, and student from Mexico doing overhead aluminum tig butt welds in about 45 minutes using TH-cam and the lab both....
...of course he was an exception to the rule, excellent hand/eye coordination to begin with.
Great vid, Mr. Tig.
Nice! Subscribed.
Mr. Tig is letting us guys know that if you do that is wrong and if you this is right. Thanks for staring Aloha. One question, what happen if the tip of the torch touch were you weld or the stick?
Ok, #1 is to make sure you have polarity correct, but which way is correct? Tungsten positive or negative??
thanks Mr TIG
Gary B I like the comment s on gas flow I have never pushed much more then 30 But that is going thru a big gas lens & I pulse a lot of the time on a Miller Dynasty
Thanks
Though Mr. Tig's attempt to verbally communicate the proper polarity setup was confusing, if you look at the intial setup the torch is connected to the red/positive connection (DCEP) which caused the electrode to melt. You will notice that he corrects the polarity problem at 2:02 in the video by plugging the torch into the black/negative connection (DCEN). This video is an example of the old adage that a picture is worth a thousand words.
Yeah, he for sure said it wrong but did it right.
Sometimes we substituted the Tungsten on a buddy's machine with a dressed piece of magnesium bearing aluminum tig rod, dirtied it up a bit to look similar..... poof, electrode gone. Puzzled looks everywhere, poor guy would be wondering what the heck just went on..... only use on old collets and such though.
Practical jokes and industrial equipment. Nothing can go wrong, ain't that right Fred.
...
Fred?
@@scottwillis5434 diaf.
very interesting video ! thanks for sharing !
Good advice thanks👍
Great video dude
Could you talk about the fog when you weld stainlessteel. what happen with your heald. i mean the importance to use vacum to reduce metal gases when the weld is on..
If you have a machine that you can change the polarity from the panel that is correct but if you can’t change the polarity from the panel such as my Miller Maxstar 200DX you must switch the ground and the torch so the ground would be in the positive and torch in the negative for tig welding . For stick welding put the ground in the negative and stinger in the positive. Again, this is if your machine can’t switch polarity from the panel like a lot of machines out in the field.
If you run C25 with ER70 S6? ;)
I learned vertical down on 18 gauge steel running 0.040" thoriated tungsten at 45 amps and 0.023" S6 filler. It did fine using 10-12 cfh Ar and a 6 nozzle. Arc about half a dime thickness.
I searched for 2 days the internet and youtube and founded here the solution on why my tungsten was blowing up... thanks!
Often I see a kind of halo of rusty soot forming around the edges of my weld. Usually I czn just brush that off, but sometimes it actually leaves a porous rusty color embedded in the surface of the steel. This embedded that can't be removed with my welding brush. I found that more gas (20 cfh instead of 15) helps, a shorter arc helps, a vertical angle helps, and using lower current helps.
Poor shielding can result in what you had. sometimes poor argon coverage can be from your torch not distributing the argon evenly. You can try using a gas lens (I bought a set soon after buying my first everlast tig welder) or if you want to go inexpensive try a bit of scotch brite in the cup to help even out the flow. Jody has a few welding videos about argon coverage.
Thank you. I do sometimes use a gas lens and I think it helps. I also recently increased my gas flow from about 15 cfh to about 20 cfh, which definitely helped a lot. Now I only see the rusty color once in a while. I also started using stainless filler on mild steel and I'm getting much better-looking welds, with no porosity.
Thank you for this tips
& Please post the link of the video that is displayed at the end.
+chraso th-cam.com/video/S7Klef4BM4g/w-d-xo.html
Weld.com
thank you
The first tip is backwards... he started with the ground in minus and the torch in plus.
When he switched it, torch in minus, clamp in plus his tungsten stopped burning up. As I understand it, this is how it should be, electrode negative.
Why does his tip go contrary to the example? He tells you to plug the clamp into the negative. Are other machines marked stupidly?
+ is the power side, - is the normal, unless ur burning a 7018 stick uve no real reason to be in +
so with tig your supposed to run dcen ? (so torch is negative and clamp is possitive ?)
Hunter Yep, in stick welding or mig you want the electrode to be consumed
Ernesto Castellanos ok, well I knew mig and stick you could do either dcen or dcep depending on rod for the stick or if your running Flux core on the mig, jut wasn't sure about tig
atsernov and Hunter: Yes I agree, clamp (job) is connected to positive for straight polarity welding. Opposite to a cars electrical system, so Im not sure why they call it 'straight polarity'.
Question , you called it "Straight Polarity" when the torch is on the negative electrode and ground is on the Positive end?
Great tips, thank you!
Very good
thank you.
GREAT VIDEO - THANKS
Glad we could help.
Greetings from Poland ! ;)
Pretty good video. You’re clearly a better welder than I am. The last thing I want to be here is critical. Doing training vids like this is sticking your neck out, and I commend you for that. One minor terminology thing here though. I was an AWS/CWI for a little while. According to the training I got (it’s been a long time) the lead you call and most welders call the ground is the work lead as I recall. Terminology is everything. See the Lincoln, Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding and the AWS, WIT Book.
Hi thanks for the vids, are you Left or Rght handed?
left handed.
I notice you are using the AHP. Just curious, with the upgraded flex torch and flow meter, is this a favorite TIG machine for you?
I was wondering why my welding suck so much. I had nearly every mistake in this video. Too much angle, maybe inverted torch and ground (have to check i'm not sure but that's a probability), and too high cfh. Trying to weld 0.8mm sheet metal like that, now i know :D A question i have is, when you are doing rust repair on an old car, what is your best advice to go for it, beceause sometimes you have to weld nearly upside down, it's really hard to be stable, and sometimes it's nearly impossible to clean out all the paint / surface rust to have a clean material. The other guy doing this next to me with his mig has no problem, even when he's welding trough paint his welds come out good, but i struggle so much with tig even on clean metal, at 30 amps i burn trough, or if i go down to 15-20Amps, it seems like it won't really weld, i struggle to have the puddle melting to the both parts of the sheet metal, or the fact to weld to a vertical part gives me a hard time to have the filler material dropping at the right place, and so on.
Oswald Cobblepot use your foot pedal. You could have that thing set to 130 amp and still be fine just ease off the pedal.
TIG works on Reverse Polarity and MIG/Stick works on Straight Polarity.
That's funny, my Lincoln 200 TIG machine has the torch attached to the minus and has the TIG torch picture next to it.
Because that's correct. He totally mocked up this video confusing many people.
Good thing I pretty much passed on this video. I think I'll stick with Jody on his tips on how to best use my everlast when welding.
Most of the objections on this thread amount to nothing. A professional welder would just swap the leads around if he accidentally had them in reverse and start welding. I've been tig welding for decades and couldn't tell you which terminal the welding lead goes into. Just do like the instructor says - reverse them if you find them attached incorrectly.
Right..I didn't use my tig for years because of this problem! a professional should/would know this info(everyone I talked to said - for ground + goes to tourch (not mine)) . for a beginner this information could be worth the price of a tig machine :-)
Nice video. Interesting thing.. I have purchased an AC machine and a 10 liter bottle of "100% argon" and started the learning process. I got reasonably good with iron in couple of hours, however I do get quite a lot of sparks and brown deposit around my welds. The sparks contaminate my tungsten quickly. The surfaces are not rusted and wire-brushed, are reasonably clean.
Is there a problem with my gas?
+circuitdotlt Tough to say exactly what the problem is without seeing some pictures of the weld. It could potentially be a gas issue... Post some pictures on the forum and we can hopefully better diagnose the issue: www.weld.com/index.php/log-in-to-weekend-warriors/categories
Thanks...