Just finished my voile split kit on my board! Could not have done it without your videos! Thanks. Now I am off to do some splitboard mountaineering in California :)
this DIY splitboard KIT will work with regular bindings...so you don't need to spend another 800 bucks on bindings and boots. something every video fails to mention
Hi, I have a 152cm board. Once I got the balance point and installed all the hardware, for touring bracket and climbing wires, it seems that the climbing block and wire are too far at the tail and i cant installed the pucks at the same place i had my back foot before.
Has anyone had issues with water seepage into the core? I noticed the undersurface is epoxied but the top sheet has screw holes but no epoxy underneath the hardware. Is that ever an issue?
+chris skeehan If you do this right, based on what I said above (making sure the temperature is falling while the epoxy is curing) the wood draws the epoxy in and should impregnate all the layers around the holes.
I ordered this kit From Voile and did the installation last week, make sure the templates are correct. the Templates I got for the END CLIPS and the Board locks where off...ended up having to epoxy the holes back and re-drill 4 holes, pain in the A$$. put the hardware in place then make your marks off the hardware supplied
I own a small tuning shop and have a customer wanting me to install these. I have no idea how long this will take me, my guess is 3-4 hours start to finish, no including dry times for resin and sealants. Anyone do this before can give me a ballpark on how long it took?
Im having trouble with hammering the rivets. they arent folding over.... any tips? i put quarters/metal under while hammering. Im going to go buy a ball peen hammer
Hard to remember, I think I ended up hammering using a center punch tool to start the folding and then just a regular hammer to finish the job once it starts. @@christianwelgs4641
The reason for the epoxy "sinking in" is because of temperature and the porous nature of the wood. If the ambient temperature is cooling while the epoxy is curing it will draw it into the wood (this is what you want). If the temperature is rising when the epoxy is curing, the wood will "outgas" and create bubbles.
So with this in mind, would it make sense to leave the board outside overnight after you epoxi it? And is there a certain temperature range you should be looking for?
This is one of the best videos ever made.
Just finished my voile split kit on my board! Could not have done it without your videos! Thanks. Now I am off to do some splitboard mountaineering in California :)
This guy is legendary. Super helpful video
Thanks for the detailed tutorial! This definitely convinced me to buy a pre-made splitboard instead of DIY-ing a old noodle I have laying around.
thanks for all your help, this is a great vid! Splitboard complete, backcountry here I come.... in like 5 months.
You have saved at least 1k. Creative minds can save a lot of $ and still having fun on pow. 👍
Superb video, thanks!
Awesome video man i been wanting to do this for awhile. I think with this vid i can pull it off. Already have a old Burton canyon 68 set aside for it.
this is amazing. I REALLY want to do this.
wicked vid dude thanks!
Fabulous
Don't you want the Edges on the Outside in Ski mode so you can Carve on the steel edge... ?
How do you refill a hole or 4 that you drilled but didn't use because of misalignment?
this DIY splitboard KIT will work with regular bindings...so you don't need to spend another 800 bucks on bindings and boots. something every video fails to mention
Would you need to screw and unscrew bindings on the hill then?
Yes, would you need to screw and unscrew if you had regular bindings going from climb mode to board mode?
where can i buy this kit?
Hey, great vid! What do you recommend for epoxy? Or should any marine grade epoxy work? Thank you sir!
Same question...
Hi, I have a 152cm board. Once I got the balance point and installed all the hardware, for touring bracket and climbing wires, it seems that the climbing block and wire are too far at the tail and i cant installed the pucks at the same place i had my back foot before.
So is the stance permanent with that kit?
Has anyone had issues with water seepage into the core? I noticed the undersurface is epoxied but the top sheet has screw holes but no epoxy underneath the hardware. Is that ever an issue?
+chris skeehan If you do this right, based on what I said above (making sure the temperature is falling while the epoxy is curing) the wood draws the epoxy in and should impregnate all the layers around the holes.
Hi,
Does this also work with standard snowboard bindings?
it should
mougabo it doesn’t. There’s specific bindings for split boards
DaeHan2321 actually this kit does let you use regular bindings , I don’t know about any other kit but this one does
The voile universal kit takes any regular bindings
I ordered this kit From Voile and did the installation last week, make sure the templates are correct. the Templates I got for the END CLIPS and the Board locks where off...ended up having to epoxy the holes back and re-drill 4 holes, pain in the A$$. put the hardware in place then make your marks off the hardware supplied
+Eric Sullivan
did you mark the holes before you cut?
+Eric Sullivan
ok thanks.
I own a small tuning shop and have a customer wanting me to install these.
I have no idea how long this will take me, my guess is 3-4 hours start to finish, no including dry times for resin and sealants.
Anyone do this before can give me a ballpark on how long it took?
Im having trouble with hammering the rivets. they arent folding over.... any tips? i put quarters/metal under while hammering. Im going to go buy a ball peen hammer
What did you do to get this to work? I didn't get that little rivet metal tool either.
whatd you guys do@@lastguymade @Thestephenribero
Hard to remember, I think I ended up hammering using a center punch tool to start the folding and then just a regular hammer to finish the job once it starts. @@christianwelgs4641
is there a way to turn a board with burton 3d into a splitboard?
I filled all the holes with flexible marine epoxy and cut the whole thing through slowly and it worked just fine.
The reason for the epoxy "sinking in" is because of temperature and the porous nature of the wood. If the ambient temperature is cooling while the epoxy is curing it will draw it into the wood (this is what you want). If the temperature is rising when the epoxy is curing, the wood will "outgas" and create bubbles.
So with this in mind, would it make sense to leave the board outside overnight after you epoxi it? And is there a certain temperature range you should be looking for?
I dont really think the brand matters as long as it's not an alpine style.
Can you use any binding on this or just the voile?
Most bindings fit on the sliders with just 4 screws, I do not use voile bindings