Thank you for this video. I am a professional mechanic. My hat is off to you. this is a clear and concise analysis of the ford system and helps a great deal. Thanks
Thank you for this video. I was able to get all my bolts out without snapping the plastic off. I cleaned all the goop off the contacts and it worked just fine. It had been stuck past the drive gear and it just kept turning because it couldn't read the position. I put it all back in and all is working great. I haven't had working temp control in my truck for more years than I can remember. Kudos to you, sir!
every shop I go to seems to go deaf at the mention of the blend door/actuator. one shop simply recharged the refrigerant, giving me a temporary fix. the local Ford dealership later diagnosed the hole in the AC system and fixed that for me, but the HVAC still blows hot when set to AC. gotta set it to max-AC to get cool. I'm like $1200 (counting other stuff the dealership wanted me to get fixed as well) into trying to get the AC working as intended from factory. I don't understand why nobody wants to listen to me or get in behind the glovebox, it seems so simple! thank you for this video.
You’re welcome! It’s sad when some place just turn into parts changers instead of actually diagnosing the issue properly. Definitely worth having a look yourself.
Awesome video, thank you so much, fixed my lack of heat in my 2008 ford ranger.My friend had a horrible time accessing the back screw and had to modify his ratchet with tape and a copper pipe.Once he used his tool, it was fast and easy.
@@4DIYerscompany just bought a work ranger and the heat just went so had to TH-cam how to fix it again.... Ironically find my comment about that stupid screw already posted 6 years ago 🤣🤣🤣 fuck Ford for that screw
Thanks for the Instructions, mine hed all the little prongs inside, the plug from actuator was forward. had to push the prongs inside the female plug, open the actuator and push the female plug back and make the prongs to expose. bad assembly I guess. fixed it and saved some bucks.
Thanks for the excellent steps. Someone on YT said that one should use electric grease (or dielectric grease, not sure) to grease the tracks and gears. Which do you suggest next to the white lithium you mentioned?
awesome video..I had an issue with the actual control of vent ac floor defrost what not...would work when it wanted or if i played with it...tested blower and resistor all fine...The relay was going out for the fan in the under hood box...replaced and all is well
I had to break the back bolt off because I wasn't taking everything apart to get to it, but it seems to be holding fine and my temperature control is working the blend door properly now. Thanks!
I had to do the same thing.... I checked with mechanic friends and that was the only way to get at that single bolt.... I wasn't going to tear everything apart either.....
*Helpful Hints By Jonny On The Spot!* My 99 Mazda B3000 104k mi. ,had very little air flow on AC only. I removed blower motor & with an air chuck wand, blew all the debris out & through my evap. core. Though I could not physically blow through the entire surface area face of the evap core, my air flow increased 2 fold. #2 fan speed now pushes as much air as #4 fan speed did prior. Don't use those spray can evap. Core foamy cleaners! They contain sodium based chemicals that slowly dissolve the aluminum fins & solder!
Great video. I have a question. How do you align the cogs in the actuator after reassembly? Is there a video for that? Also does the actuator and the door position have to match before operating the heater switch? I have a broken door that I am replacing. Thanks for your help
Thank you! You can plug in the actuator, turn the ignition on so it's functional and then rotate the temperature dial. Just move it slowly and you'll feel it fall into place. It does have to match, I believe this is a stepper motor.
So I have 12 volts and a good ground. The potentiometer metered well and smooth. I have tried two separate potentiometers and two brand new actuators. What an I missing? Are the brand new Dorman actuators the issue? If I have power and ground, and good resistances from the potentiometer then why else wouldn't it work?
Have a 2007 ranger, upon cleaning the inside of the actuator I noticed the small gear had a single spoke missing. Can this be the cause of noise and malfunction of the blend door? Edited update discovered it was two spoke/sprocket that were missing from the gear.
Thanks. My actuator still works fine no click or anything but the blend door doesn't appear to move. Usually I'd hear a rush of air current changes when my ac turns on to ac max but it doesn't do that. I think the blend door is broken. How would I replace that without ivicerating my duct like I've seen people do? I'm trying to restore it and don't wanna hack job it to pieces.
i was afraid of that. there appears to be no videos ive seen on youtube about dash disassembly. i got it apart once before half way to take the instrument cluster out to replace the burned out dash lights since i tend to do a lot of night driving. but not on the passenger side. Ive also noticed that i managed to get the actuator off without moving the screws and mine pops off the nubs it sits on. so i wonder if the screws on my particular model takes off the blend door and it lifts off the top. ill have to see about it when i get around to doing the job. right now i dont have days off of work to work on it so i gotta deal with the florida heat. a shame when these break they default to heat. i wouldnt have cared as much if they just defaulted to cold i never use the heat side of things down here anyway.@@4DIYers
A mechanic's mirror or borescope would definitely help. I've never done a dashboard removal myself and honestly want to avoid it as I know what's involved. Might be able to move the blend door with a screwdriver to close up the heat.
@@4DIYers thanks for the reply. i might try this. still havent gotten around to it. i have 3 days off though so i might try to see whats going on with it after using my first day to rest.
inside the heater box where the blend door is (full hot)it greats a suction that keeps the blend door sealed for heat i had a really hard time moving the blend door by hand no wander the actuator burns out (solution put the selector (dial on the right) on off wow no more suction the door moved real easy)
Just replaced mine on 07 Ranger. Beware of made in China replacement - the post was .010" too wide to fit, measured with my caliper. I filed the flats down to match the old part and then it slid right in. Matched the rotation by plugging in and adjusting the temp dial. I left the rear screw out, new one works great.
My actuator works, but replaced it anyway, someone before me cut an opening in duct, i can move the door by hand, i guess where the actuator goes in is stripped. Life goes on.
A lot of comments I'm seeing are talking about 2 of these in a vehicle. Mine is a 2009 ford ranger xlt and the knobs are just like what you show. Does your 98 have 2 actuators?
Havnt started fixing mine yet, but chatgpt told me to take mine out first and match the model number as there are many different flavors that were put in the same model of cars. Maybe check if your new one matches the model number of the old one. If not, calipers or tracing with pencil and paper should maybe help? Again, admitting I have not done this, but am planning to this weekend
Hi i have 2013 ford explorer when i put the can in on positions everything works good but when i start the car and try turn temb to get cool air nothing changes i get only max hi or max cold no temp between.
Well did it work ? He didn't say that it did he just said it was quiet after he cleaned it . I got a 1997 ford ranger and it blows heat all the time and the front vents or floor vents doesn't blow hard only the defrost vent blows hard
hello thank you for your videos i have a 2000 ranger recently i had the heato cor replaced and now the air does not blow to front panels only on top vents what do think it could be
Voltage check, resistor check. I tried cleaning the actuator as you said, and still doesn't work. I ordered a new actuator, don't see why it wouldn't work if I'm getting voltage and proper resistor readings when moving the knob. I'll update when I get the new actuator
Excellent to hear the problem was solved! Unfortunately the motor can wear out, you can take it apart but it's much more complicated. There are even electronic components that can fail too.
There should be Dielectric grease on the potentiometer between the contacts it should not be dry as it creates friction everytime the gear moves and will wear the contacts to where it can no longer find its position do not I repeat do not leave this dry
Have an 06 ranger , doesn’t blow hot air, when I got to change the temp to cold there’s a click, but when I change it to hot there is no click. Could it be the actuator ?
Sounds like the actuators stuck in hot. When it tries to go cold it clicks but can't move. It doesn't try to go hot cause it's stuck in hot already so it doesn't click.
Can anyone help please? I cut a hole in the duct and found that the blend door was loosely flapping around with no resistance. Is there a connection gone somewhere or is there a problem with the actuator?
I have a 03 ranger and my temp works great it’s just that the air only blows out the top defrost vent no matter what mode u have it on. Could that be the blend door actuator?
You probably have a vacuum leak, check the vacuum lines behind the glove box and also under the hood, 2 vacuum lines that go to the black plastic ball near the passenger side headlight. Mine was melted by the exhaust.
Hello, I have a ranger 06, when I turn on the air, just throw it up, do not change the hatches and walk the air conditioning, change the key on the right but it stays the same, what can it be?
Heads up. Watcher your video and then went to it. Started to pry it off the mounting posts when I noticed it has screws! Got the front two out easy after disconnecting the wiring harness. Been trying for TWO DAYS to get to the one in the back. Whoever the engineer was that designed the mounting of this thing should be horse whipped! Any ideas how to get to the back one, short of pulling the dash???
Thank you for sharing. What year is your truck??? I Actually just had another viewer post today regarding fasteners too. They used a socket to get the back one slightly loose and then a wrench to finish it off. You should be able to see their comment, it's on this video.
I'd like to see a video of someone changing this as well. I have a 2008 ranger and I don't even want imagine having to squeeze back there to get the two back screws out.
I have a 2008 Ranger and I was able, quite easily, to get a 1/4" ratchet with an 8mm socket in and remove the rear screw. I tied a length of dental floss onto the ratchet and it came in handy as the ratchet did slip out of my hand. All I had to do was pull it out with the floss. Loosen the screw until it's almost out then work your fingers in to remove it the last few turns. Be careful not to let it drop. When reinstalling, I tied the same floss around the screw under the head and just left it in place.
I just pried at mine with a big flat head screw driver and the back bolt and it's plastic thread broke off the surrounding plastic. When I put the new one in I just did the front two screws. Works fine, good as new. For a $40 part I could care less if it breaks again in two years, easy fix. If you broke the screw off and really want to secure this thing so it doesn't come up in the back, just cut a piece of wood in a wedge and wedge it in there, the top plastic will bend a little to accommodate the wedge, then throw some duck tape on it or hot glue.
I had same problem with screws instead of clips. I did get a socket on it and got the back screw half out. I then used small wrench that I bent to get it the rest of the way out. I will be buying a ratchet wrench to put back together.
What year truck??? I actually had someone just comment the other day with the same issue and used your tip to help them out with the back fastener. Thank you for the tip too! You might be able to fit a 1/4" ratchet.
I have a 2008 Ranger and I was able, quite easily, to get a 1/4" ratchet with an 8mm socket in and remove the rear screw. I tied a length of dental floss onto the ratchet and it came in handy as the ratchet did slip out of my hand. All I had to do was pull it out with the floss. Loosen the screw until it's almost out then work your fingers in to remove it the last few turns. Be careful not to let it drop. When reinstalling, I tied the same floss around the screw under the head and just left it in place.
Hello. Dou you please have any video covering 08 Ford Edge dual climate control blend door actuator or broken door diagnostic replacement? Ghanks in advance
Unfortunately I don't have anything relating to an Edge. However I did find a link which appears to have some good info and a pdf file (I can't access it, you need an account but it might be a walkthrough repair hopefully) www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11725-dual-climate-control-repair/
@@4DIYers thank you much for your prompt reply. I am still dealing with it and trying to notice something that could lead me to the right direction. May be your experience can help me confirm or infirm my thesis. Here is what I got now. I noticed: 1- all door blend actuators are operating at some point. The two in the top are at all time when the recirculation and the air distribution buttons are operated for the heater / HVAC 2- the two actuators at the bottom that open the doors to let the wind circulate towards the vent do their job only for the air. Indeed, once i manually lower the temperature from 69F & lower, they operate to open the doors thus letting the air flow to the vent. However, when I increase the temperature passed 70F they close the door no matter what air distribution mode is selected and the air only flows towards the feet and within the vent. My theory is. Since the doors are not broken, Since the actuators are not damaged. This inconsistency of the doors allowing airflow to the vent only when the air is selected must be due to faulty control module. If yes, this theory should be confirmed by verifying that the actuators receive power when the vent circulation is selected during the heating mode (70+ F). The only reason this theory would be weak is if dual temperature blend door actuators have two mode of operation of the same door depending on if heating or cooling is selected (I dont think so but we never know). What do you think? Sorry for writing a book.
No problem, happy to help! From what I've found, they appear to be electronically controlled actuators, same as the Ranger. If they're both operating at the same time, it would seem as if there is a controller issue. Does it do the same thing when you operate the passenger and driver temperatures separately? If all the actuators are the same, you can swap between them just to be sure it isn't a faulty actuator. It's possible they could have failed at the same time. However, another issue can also be the memory of the motor's position. They use stepper motors and some vehicles do have a reset procedure. With my 07 Volvo C30, many parts on the car are made by Ford and it shares the same platform as the Focus. With my car, they are known to act up, the air will blow from random locations. There is a reset procedure, unfortunately someone with the car's specific software is able to do this. You can probably pick up the programming cheap enough on Ebay, I'm not sure which is required for your vehicle. Just be careful of the seller. I tried to order a VIDA cable for my car and it never arrived. Thankfully I got a refund, even with the seller closing their account.
@@4DIYers I removed the air inlet blend door actuator and found out it was in good condition, no broken teeth on the gears. For peace of mind i decided to replace it. Also, I got an AC controller from salvage yard and the behaviour of the actuators remained the same. Very drained and disappointed i put everything back together. Im now leaning towards a programming issue or a broken door within the vent but im giving up here. The good of all is realised i did not have to remove the dash to get to them. Indeed, it was possible to remove them in a not very comfy position but in 15mn...
I have a 1998 ford ranger automatic 4.0 liter 4×4 just like the one in this video, the problem I'm having is I have no air coming out of the front or bottom vents I only have air blowing out of the default defrost vents could replacing the blend door actuator fix my problem
Air only from defrost is most likely caused by a vacuum leak, check the vacuum lines behind the glove box and under the hood, particularly the 2 lines that go to the black plastic ball near the passenger side headlight.
I finally managed to get to the back screw. Why the heck did they put the rear screw there? What a horrible design. You certainly need a very small ratchet and someone with tiny hands for this. There will be a lot of cursing involved.
I have a 2010 ford ranger I changed the actuator but it’s still stuck on defrost no matter what setting I put it in any ideas on what else it could be ?
The problem I have is the plastic knob on the actuator itself that rotates when adjusting the temperature controls broke off into the hole it sits in which is on top of the plenum. Any ideas on how to get the plastic pieces out of the hole? Or do I need to remove the airbag and dash?
My cold air just comes out the top of the dash (like defrost) and nothing comes out of the vents facing seats . Never heard any noises . The blower used to blow on the low settings but is very weak now and needs to be on medium or high to blow right What is wrong it how to fix ? Thank you !
Sounds like the flapper for the direction maybe jammed or the actuator failed. If the blower is working poorly on lower setting, it could have a blockage. Perhaps the same issue is causing both problems. A borescope would be great for inspecting inside the vents.
I'm having trouble with my heat i changed the thermostat and top radiator hose (soft) blower motor blower box anti freeze has been changed and burped . I'm at a loss
Have 2005 ford ranger. Died out on me so took it to mechanic. Mechanic changed out fuel pump, and cleaned out fuel lines. Code P0353 showed up while doing diagnosis. Truck starts up and revs good. Just that when I get to 40 MPH truck starts to lose power and acceleration is no good. I then turn off engine let truck rest for 20 seconds then starts up just fine. Just again hitting the 40 MPH range looses power all the time . Please help anyone thanks .
It's not for the fan setting, I believe it's intended to recirculate the interior air instead of supplying outside fresh air. It should be outlined in the owner's manual too.
Having the same issue. Has something to do with the vent to the right of the blend door actuator, right behind the glove box, not opening. If you force it open, you'll feel more air rush through but the idea is for it to open by itself, which it's not. I've been trying to figure out why for a good while now, but haven't made any solid conclusions.
My ac will only run when my foot is off of the gas city or free way, and I called this place Parts Authority and they dont know what they are doing... So what do you think it could be ???
Could be a couple different things. Not sure what your vehicle is, but on newer models they will disable to ac at wide open throttle. A sensor my have failed, causing it to not run at all. You could also be looking at a slipping ac clutch or perhaps the system is low in freon.
I believe that does have a cut out when accelerating which if I remember correctly is controlled by the throttle position sensor. Also, you may have a vacuum leak and that would be the best place to start.
I have a 2008 ford ranger ac works but heater doesn't work and the heater core has been replaced and when I switch it from ac to heat I don't hear a clicking noise so I'm not sure if I replace if that would fix it.
Thank you for this video. I am a professional mechanic. My hat is off to you. this is a clear and concise analysis of the ford system and helps a great deal. Thanks
Thank you so much for the feedback and kind words, I really appreciate it!
But how can I determine if it's the blend door actuator or temperature control know itself to the blend door
Thank you for this video. I was able to get all my bolts out without snapping the plastic off. I cleaned all the goop off the contacts and it worked just fine. It had been stuck past the drive gear and it just kept turning because it couldn't read the position. I put it all back in and all is working great. I haven't had working temp control in my truck for more years than I can remember. Kudos to you, sir!
Glad to help out and awesome to hear :) I have a few others Ranger videos as well if you're seeking more tutorials. Don't forget to subscribe.
every shop I go to seems to go deaf at the mention of the blend door/actuator. one shop simply recharged the refrigerant, giving me a temporary fix. the local Ford dealership later diagnosed the hole in the AC system and fixed that for me, but the HVAC still blows hot when set to AC. gotta set it to max-AC to get cool. I'm like $1200 (counting other stuff the dealership wanted me to get fixed as well) into trying to get the AC working as intended from factory. I don't understand why nobody wants to listen to me or get in behind the glovebox, it seems so simple! thank you for this video.
You’re welcome! It’s sad when some place just turn into parts changers instead of actually diagnosing the issue properly. Definitely worth having a look yourself.
Still helping even 5 years later. Thank you buddy😀
Happy to help!
Awesome video, thank you so much, fixed my lack of heat in my 2008 ford ranger.My friend had a horrible time accessing the back screw and had to modify his ratchet with tape and a copper pipe.Once he used his tool, it was fast and easy.
Thank you and glad to help out :)
Appreciate the part about the rear screw, aka just break it off! Coulda saved me an hour of screwing around trying to get it off
Yeah these are definitely an uncomfortable spot, Ford couldn't make this anymore complicated. Don't forget to subscribe :)
@@4DIYerscompany just bought a work ranger and the heat just went so had to TH-cam how to fix it again.... Ironically find my comment about that stupid screw already posted 6 years ago 🤣🤣🤣 fuck Ford for that screw
If your having difficulty accessing the screw/bolts. You can remove the defroster vent and come down from the top to get to them.
Great video. A few of your videos have helped a lot! Subscribed.
Thank you so much for the kind words and support!
Thanks for the Instructions, mine hed all the little prongs inside, the plug from actuator was forward. had to push the prongs inside the female plug, open the actuator and push the female plug back and make the prongs to expose. bad assembly I guess. fixed it and saved some bucks.
Awesome to hear and thank you for the feedback!
Thanks to your video I was able to replace the blend door actuator awesome video I now subscribe to your channel sir
So happy I could help and thank you so much for the support too!
Thanks for the excellent steps. Someone on YT said that one should use electric grease (or dielectric grease, not sure) to grease the tracks and gears. Which do you suggest next to the white lithium you mentioned?
Thanks. Looks like a fair simple job. Hopefully fixes my heat no heat problem!
You're welcome and hope you get it fixed.
awesome video..I had an issue with the actual control of vent ac floor defrost what not...would work when it wanted or if i played with it...tested blower and resistor all fine...The relay was going out for the fan in the under hood box...replaced and all is well
Thanks for the info. This is on my list for this
Weekend.
Thank you for this video. Turns out my mechanic forgot to plug in my actuator back in, after having the AC serviced.
I had to break the back bolt off because I wasn't taking everything apart to get to it, but it seems to be holding fine and my temperature control is working the blend door properly now.
Thanks!
Glad to help out!
I had to do the same thing.... I checked with mechanic friends and that was the only way to get at that single bolt.... I wasn't going to tear everything apart either.....
*Helpful Hints By Jonny On The Spot!*
My 99 Mazda B3000 104k mi. ,had very little air flow on AC only. I removed blower motor & with an air chuck wand, blew all the debris out & through my evap. core. Though I could not physically blow through the entire surface area face of the evap core, my air flow increased 2 fold. #2 fan speed now pushes as much air as #4 fan speed did prior. Don't use those spray can evap. Core foamy cleaners! They contain sodium based chemicals that slowly dissolve the aluminum fins & solder!
Great tips, thank you for sharing!
Thank you for this video , you have a video for the manet for a direction of blower is not work , the van and the temperature is good , thank you
Thanks for not blasting me with rock and roll or dobro😅
No problem lol.
Great video, a quick question, is the same actuator used on Non AC '08 Rangers?....100 Miles up a frozen river valley to My nearest Ford Dealer....
Great vid... can you just open the unit and spray with compressed air can instead of disassemble?
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Best video thanks
No problem and thank you!
Great video. I have a question. How do you align the cogs in the actuator after reassembly? Is there a video for that? Also does the actuator and the door position have to match before operating the heater switch? I have a broken door that I am replacing.
Thanks for your help
Thank you! You can plug in the actuator, turn the ignition on so it's functional and then rotate the temperature dial. Just move it slowly and you'll feel it fall into place. It does have to match, I believe this is a stepper motor.
So I have 12 volts and a good ground. The potentiometer metered well and smooth. I have tried two separate potentiometers and two brand new actuators.
What an I missing?
Are the brand new Dorman actuators the issue? If I have power and ground, and good resistances from the potentiometer then why else wouldn't it work?
Buen video se aprende algo nuevo siempre
Have a 2007 ranger, upon cleaning the inside of the actuator I noticed the small gear had a single spoke missing. Can this be the cause of noise and malfunction of the blend door? Edited update discovered it was two spoke/sprocket that were missing from the gear.
Just Thank You for the video!!!!
Glad to help out!
Thanks. My actuator still works fine no click or anything but the blend door doesn't appear to move. Usually I'd hear a rush of air current changes when my ac turns on to ac max but it doesn't do that. I think the blend door is broken. How would I replace that without ivicerating my duct like I've seen people do? I'm trying to restore it and don't wanna hack job it to pieces.
You’re welcome! Unfortunately will be required to remove the dashboard in order to pull out the duct. Not any easy job by any means.
i was afraid of that. there appears to be no videos ive seen on youtube about dash disassembly. i got it apart once before half way to take the instrument cluster out to replace the burned out dash lights since i tend to do a lot of night driving. but not on the passenger side. Ive also noticed that i managed to get the actuator off without moving the screws and mine pops off the nubs it sits on. so i wonder if the screws on my particular model takes off the blend door and it lifts off the top. ill have to see about it when i get around to doing the job. right now i dont have days off of work to work on it so i gotta deal with the florida heat. a shame when these break they default to heat. i wouldnt have cared as much if they just defaulted to cold i never use the heat side of things down here anyway.@@4DIYers
A mechanic's mirror or borescope would definitely help. I've never done a dashboard removal myself and honestly want to avoid it as I know what's involved. Might be able to move the blend door with a screwdriver to close up the heat.
@@4DIYers thanks for the reply. i might try this. still havent gotten around to it. i have 3 days off though so i might try to see whats going on with it after using my first day to rest.
inside the heater box where the blend door is (full hot)it greats a suction that keeps the blend door sealed for heat i had a really hard time moving the blend door by hand no wander the actuator burns out (solution put the selector (dial on the right) on off wow no more suction the door moved real easy)
Just replaced mine on 07 Ranger. Beware of made in China replacement - the post was .010" too wide to fit, measured with my caliper. I filed the flats down to match the old part and then it slid right in. Matched the rotation by plugging in and adjusting the temp dial. I left the rear screw out, new one works great.
get the rear screw from top defroster vent after it is removed
just got to have a long extension 1/4 preferred.
My actuator works, but replaced it anyway, someone before me cut an opening in duct, i can move the door by hand, i guess where the actuator goes in is stripped. Life goes on.
A lot of comments I'm seeing are talking about 2 of these in a vehicle. Mine is a 2009 ford ranger xlt and the knobs are just like what you show. Does your 98 have 2 actuators?
Mine only has one. Maybe it's for dual climate control if that was an option.
I cannot get the plastic piece to line up. I'm ashamed to tell you how much time I've spent. Do I have the wrong actuator?
I'm struggling with this too
Havnt started fixing mine yet, but chatgpt told me to take mine out first and match the model number as there are many different flavors that were put in the same model of cars. Maybe check if your new one matches the model number of the old one.
If not, calipers or tracing with pencil and paper should maybe help? Again, admitting I have not done this, but am planning to this weekend
Hey I’m looking for the caben air filter mine looks just like that but can’t seem to find it
Hi i have 2013 ford explorer when i put the can in on positions everything works good but when i start the car and try turn temb to get cool air nothing changes i get only max hi or max cold no temp between.
Well did it work ? He didn't say that it did he just said it was quiet after he cleaned it . I got a 1997 ford ranger and it blows heat all the time and the front vents or floor vents doesn't blow hard only the defrost vent blows hard
Yes it worked, that's why I posted the video.
hello thank you for your videos i have a 2000 ranger recently i had the heato cor replaced and now the air does not blow to front panels only on top vents what do think it could be
Glad to help out. That could be an issue with your HVAC control panel, perhaps the wiring, or an actuator/door which controls the air flow.
Vacuum leak.
Vacuum leak, the default air flow is the defrost position. Check all vacuum lines, fix it and it should work as normal. Good luck.
Voltage check, resistor check.
I tried cleaning the actuator as you said, and still doesn't work.
I ordered a new actuator, don't see why it wouldn't work if I'm getting voltage and proper resistor readings when moving the knob.
I'll update when I get the new actuator
So the little motor in my old actuator had its brushes worn out. Installed the new actuator and problem solved
Excellent to hear the problem was solved! Unfortunately the motor can wear out, you can take it apart but it's much more complicated. There are even electronic components that can fail too.
There should be Dielectric grease on the potentiometer between the contacts it should not be dry as it creates friction everytime the gear moves and will wear the contacts to where it can no longer find its position do not I repeat do not leave this dry
Have an 06 ranger , doesn’t blow hot air, when I got to change the temp to cold there’s a click, but when I change it to hot there is no click. Could it be the actuator ?
Sounds like the actuators stuck in hot. When it tries to go cold it clicks but can't move. It doesn't try to go hot cause it's stuck in hot already so it doesn't click.
Is it possible to remove the shaft of the actuator? Might be a decent temporary fix to put a small handle on it.
I can’t remember if the shaft is removable or not. Worse case scenario, you can cut it out.
Can anyone help please?
I cut a hole in the duct and found that the blend door was loosely flapping around with no resistance. Is there a connection gone somewhere or is there a problem with the actuator?
I have a 03 ranger and my temp works great it’s just that the air only blows out the top defrost vent no matter what mode u have it on. Could that be the blend door actuator?
You probably have a vacuum leak, check the vacuum lines behind the glove box and also under the hood, 2 vacuum lines that go to the black plastic ball near the passenger side headlight. Mine was melted by the exhaust.
I replaced my actuator but the actuator isn’t moving at all when changing the temp, thinking in may be the control board that isn’t sending a signal
Do you have a video about the fan not working or intermittent?
Unfortunately I do not.
also works on 98-04 ford f350 super duty
Thanks for the tip!
so simple when you edit out the part getting the back screw out of the actuator
Hello, I have a ranger 06, when I turn on the air, just throw it up, do not change the hatches and walk the air conditioning, change the key on the right but it stays the same, what can it be?
Heads up. Watcher your video and then went to it. Started to pry it off the mounting posts when I noticed it has screws! Got the front two out easy after disconnecting the wiring harness. Been trying for TWO DAYS to get to the one in the back. Whoever the engineer was that designed the mounting of this thing should be horse whipped! Any ideas how to get to the back one, short of pulling the dash???
Thank you for sharing. What year is your truck??? I Actually just had another viewer post today regarding fasteners too. They used a socket to get the back one slightly loose and then a wrench to finish it off. You should be able to see their comment, it's on this video.
I'd like to see a video of someone changing this as well. I have a 2008 ranger and I don't even want imagine having to squeeze back there to get the two back screws out.
I have a 2008 Ranger and I was able, quite easily, to get a 1/4" ratchet with an 8mm socket in and remove the rear screw. I tied a length of dental floss onto the ratchet and it came in handy as the ratchet did slip out of my hand. All I had to do was pull it out with the floss.
Loosen the screw until it's almost out then work your fingers in to remove it the last few turns. Be careful not to let it drop. When reinstalling, I tied the same floss around the screw under the head and just left it in place.
Seems like this would be the first thing to come to mind, but I didn't even think of trying that. Thanks for the info!
I just pried at mine with a big flat head screw driver and the back bolt and it's plastic thread broke off the surrounding plastic.
When I put the new one in I just did the front two screws. Works fine, good as new. For a $40 part I could care less if it breaks again in two years, easy fix.
If you broke the screw off and really want to secure this thing so it doesn't come up in the back, just cut a piece of wood in a wedge and wedge it in there, the top plastic will bend a little to accommodate the wedge, then throw some duck tape on it or hot glue.
What happens if the post to the valve stem is broken .
I believe I m in this phase of repair or the resistor itself
I had same problem with screws instead of clips. I did get a socket on it and got the back screw half out. I then used small wrench that I bent to get it the rest of the way out. I will be buying a ratchet wrench to put back together.
What year truck??? I actually had someone just comment the other day with the same issue and used your tip to help them out with the back fastener. Thank you for the tip too! You might be able to fit a 1/4" ratchet.
It's 2008. Check out rockauto for replacement part. I think it was under $30.
I have a 2008 Ranger and I was able, quite easily, to get a 1/4" ratchet with an 8mm socket in and remove the rear screw. I tied a length of dental floss onto the ratchet and it came in handy as the ratchet did slip out of my hand. All I had to do was pull it out with the floss.
Loosen the screw until it's almost out then work your fingers in to remove it the last few turns. Be careful not to let it drop. When reinstalling, I tied the same floss around the screw under the head and just left it in place.
@@4DIYers put the two front screws in, you don't need that rear screw in there anyways.
Hello. Dou you please have any video covering 08 Ford Edge dual climate control blend door actuator or broken door diagnostic replacement? Ghanks in advance
Unfortunately I don't have anything relating to an Edge. However I did find a link which appears to have some good info and a pdf file (I can't access it, you need an account but it might be a walkthrough repair hopefully) www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11725-dual-climate-control-repair/
@@4DIYers thank you much for your prompt reply. I am still dealing with it and trying to notice something that could lead me to the right direction. May be your experience can help me confirm or infirm my thesis. Here is what I got now.
I noticed:
1- all door blend actuators are operating at some point.
The two in the top are at all time when the recirculation and the air distribution buttons are operated for the heater / HVAC
2- the two actuators at the bottom that open the doors to let the wind circulate towards the vent do their job only for the air. Indeed, once i manually lower the temperature from 69F & lower, they operate to open the doors thus letting the air flow to the vent.
However, when I increase the temperature passed 70F they close the door no matter what air distribution mode is selected and the air only flows towards the feet and within the vent.
My theory is.
Since the doors are not broken,
Since the actuators are not damaged.
This inconsistency of the doors allowing airflow to the vent only when the air is selected must be due to faulty control module.
If yes, this theory should be confirmed by verifying that the actuators receive power when the vent circulation is selected during the heating mode (70+ F).
The only reason this theory would be weak is if dual temperature blend door actuators have two mode of operation of the same door depending on if heating or cooling is selected (I dont think so but we never know).
What do you think? Sorry for writing a book.
No problem, happy to help! From what I've found, they appear to be electronically controlled actuators, same as the Ranger. If they're both operating at the same time, it would seem as if there is a controller issue. Does it do the same thing when you operate the passenger and driver temperatures separately? If all the actuators are the same, you can swap between them just to be sure it isn't a faulty actuator. It's possible they could have failed at the same time. However, another issue can also be the memory of the motor's position. They use stepper motors and some vehicles do have a reset procedure. With my 07 Volvo C30, many parts on the car are made by Ford and it shares the same platform as the Focus. With my car, they are known to act up, the air will blow from random locations. There is a reset procedure, unfortunately someone with the car's specific software is able to do this. You can probably pick up the programming cheap enough on Ebay, I'm not sure which is required for your vehicle. Just be careful of the seller. I tried to order a VIDA cable for my car and it never arrived. Thankfully I got a refund, even with the seller closing their account.
@@4DIYers I removed the air inlet blend door actuator and found out it was in good condition, no broken teeth on the gears. For peace of mind i decided to replace it. Also, I got an AC controller from salvage yard and the behaviour of the actuators remained the same. Very drained and disappointed i put everything back together. Im now leaning towards a programming issue or a broken door within the vent but im giving up here.
The good of all is realised i did not have to remove the dash to get to them. Indeed, it was possible to remove them in a not very comfy position but in 15mn...
Since my blend door actuator does work, that means I need to replace the inside part(the duct). How do I find a replacement
I have a 1998 ford ranger automatic 4.0 liter 4×4 just like the one in this video, the problem I'm having is I have no air coming out of the front or bottom vents I only have air blowing out of the default defrost vents could replacing the blend door actuator fix my problem
Air only from defrost is most likely caused by a vacuum leak, check the vacuum lines behind the glove box and under the hood, particularly the 2 lines that go to the black plastic ball near the passenger side headlight.
I finally managed to get to the back screw. Why the heck did they put the rear screw there? What a horrible design.
You certainly need a very small ratchet and someone with tiny hands for this. There will be a lot of cursing involved.
landonseibold I just did this with my truck. I have gorilla fingers so I said fuck and broke the thing off still came off in one piece tho haha.
I have a 2010 ford ranger I changed the actuator but it’s still stuck on defrost no matter what setting I put it in any ideas on what else it could be ?
I’m having the same problem
The problem I have is the plastic knob on the actuator itself that rotates when adjusting the temperature controls broke off into the hole it sits in which is on top of the plenum. Any ideas on how to get the plastic pieces out of the hole? Or do I need to remove the airbag and dash?
You could thread a small screw into it or glue something onto it and then pull the broken plastic piece out.
Any guidance on properly replacing the blend door itself without cutting the duct (like another video showed 🙄)?
My cold air just comes out the top of the dash (like defrost) and nothing comes out of the vents facing seats . Never heard any noises .
The blower used to blow on the low settings but is very weak now and needs to be on medium or high to blow right
What is wrong it how to fix ?
Thank you !
Sounds like the flapper for the direction maybe jammed or the actuator failed. If the blower is working poorly on lower setting, it could have a blockage. Perhaps the same issue is causing both problems. A borescope would be great for inspecting inside the vents.
How do you remove the third screw on back of the Actuator?
1/4" drive ratchet should be able to access it or use a wrench with a screwdriver tip taped into place.
I'm having trouble with my heat i changed the thermostat and top radiator hose (soft) blower motor blower box anti freeze has been changed and burped . I'm at a loss
Have 2005 ford ranger. Died out on me so took it to mechanic. Mechanic changed out fuel pump, and cleaned out fuel lines. Code P0353 showed up while doing diagnosis. Truck starts up and revs good. Just that when I get to 40 MPH truck starts to lose power and acceleration is no good. I then turn off engine let truck rest for 20 seconds then starts up just fine. Just again hitting the 40 MPH range looses power all the time . Please help anyone thanks .
Any idea why MAX ac don't blow any harder when selected?
It's not for the fan setting, I believe it's intended to recirculate the interior air instead of supplying outside fresh air. It should be outlined in the owner's manual too.
Having the same issue. Has something to do with the vent to the right of the blend door actuator, right behind the glove box, not opening. If you force it open, you'll feel more air rush through but the idea is for it to open by itself, which it's not. I've been trying to figure out why for a good while now, but haven't made any solid conclusions.
@@4DIYersI do agree whit you but it used to blow harder when selected,it was like an extra fan speed
Uh when I pull up and close the flap inside I no longer get any air from the 2 vents above the radio so this didn’t work apparently
The blend door is for hot and cold air, it doesn't control which vents the air come out of.
Hi , i have a 2002 ford ranger , i can hear my fans turning but no air comes out the dash vents at all , what could it be
Sounds like an actuator issue for the vents or you may have a blockage.
@@4DIYers thank you brother
My ac will only run when my foot is off of the gas city or free way, and I called this place Parts Authority and they dont know what they are doing... So what do you think it could be ???
Could be a couple different things. Not sure what your vehicle is, but on newer models they will disable to ac at wide open throttle. A sensor my have failed, causing it to not run at all. You could also be looking at a slipping ac clutch or perhaps the system is low in freon.
4DIYers it's a 1999 ford ranger 4 cylinder 5 speed 2.5L
I believe that does have a cut out when accelerating which if I remember correctly is controlled by the throttle position sensor. Also, you may have a vacuum leak and that would be the best place to start.
How do I know if the actuator is bad
It's discussed in the video.
My heat is blowing cool air not heat could that be my blendoor is bad get back to me please it's on a 1998 Mazda b3000
You never showed us how you got the back 2 bolts out of the actuator......lol
As mentioned in this video, there are no fasteners holding down the actuator. It snaps into place.
93 for rangers are different
The one part I needed was skipped🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲
2:08 how do u remove it, what was said didn’t correlate
I have a 2008 ford ranger ac works but heater doesn't work and the heater core has been replaced and when I switch it from ac to heat I don't hear a clicking noise so I'm not sure if I replace if that would fix it.
This motor could be an issue or the blend door inside the duct broke. The blend door breaking is also a common issue.
@@4DIYers I actually got it fixed it was the blend door actuator